Just got my engine back from the shop, and aside from what I think is being charged for some work they didn't do, they left most of the galley plugs and all of the core plugs in the block.  One of them looks like it's starting to go, so I need to replace them.  I already started trying to remove them and they are *stuck*.  The invoice says something about removing the plugs and "more cleaning required before reassembly".  They honed the cylinders and gave it a very minor decking.

Should the block be cleaned up again with the plugs removed?  If I'm taking it to a shop to clean it, should I just have them remove the plugs?  I've not removed plugs before and so far these are really stuck.  If they tank a block after doing machining, will it risk damaging any of the machine work?  This is my first rebuild.  It's just a 4-banger though so I can pick up the block and toss it in the back of the SUV.

ETA: Oh yeah, so they cleaned up the pistons & rods assembled, and the pistons no longer really move on the pins--probably because any lube is gone.  I'm afraid to move them in fear of scarring up the piston pins, and I assume I need to remove them to put assembly lube on them.  What's the best lube to get in there and give enough lube to get them apart?  Can I just spray them with some PB Blaster or something?  These pins should just drift out, they shouldn't need to be pressed.

If you are taking it to a shop to be hot tanked, let them remove the plugs and install new ones. Every block I've taken to a shop to have bored etc has required the block be

hot tanked before any machine work.

Regarding piston pins, are the pins held in place with circlips or spiro-locks? If not, the pin is a shrink fit to the piston boss bore. Heating the piston dome in an oven or with a hot air gun will allow them to slip right out of the piston bosses.

ETA - Automotive piston pins may require some tapping in addition to the heating. I was thinking more about outboard piston/rods.

Oh, if they are pressed into the piston (no circlips or spiro-locks) , they aren't "free floating" and don't require any oil between the pin and the piston, only between the pin and the connecting rod.

<-- Boat mechanic.

Put some oil on the pins, let them set overnight. You should be able to get them lose by hand. If you press them off you will most likely ruin them. So if you can't get them free, might as well bore it and get new ones. Plugs can be a pain to remove. Be aware of where the plugs are. Are they between cylinders or right on the cylinder? Ones on the cylinder you have to be extra careful. On Iron blocks I've always used a Large flat punch, hit it in the middle a couple times, not so hard you go through, then on one side, get the plug side ways abit. Then use a pair of channel locks, catch the edge of the plug and pry it out. Aluminum blocks are more sketch with this method. You can damage the bore of the plug if you aren't careful.

Be sure to remove the galley plugs and make sure they are brushed out. Especially if it was torn down for anything that put metal in the oil.

What are you actually working on? It will help people reply more than generically.

I am working on an '83 Toyota 22R from a 4x4 pickup.  The motor was torn down because it leaks oil like CRAZY out of the front main, and that the timing chain broke the plastic guides and was wearing through the timing cover.  I was basically told it was going to be easier to fish out the guide pieces and do the timing chain with the motor out, so I figured I'd pull it and re-seal it to stop leaks.  It also ran VERY rich for several years, and everything was black.  The oil was extremely fuel-loaded from probably not being changed for years, so I figured I'd just have a shop check it out.  It was good, but said it was on the verge of losing the head gasket.  Only honed the bores, decked it .002", and rebuilt the head.  Looks like they re-used the springs/valves on the head, and said I can re-use the cam and rocker assembly with no issues.  Using the original pistons, etc.

The shop did tank the block before they machined it, as it was pretty nasty.  They only removed a couple oil galley plugs, and obviously none of the water plugs.  Is there any concern the block isn't as clean as it should be since they left everything in?  They were supposed to pull them, and I think they charged me for it, but picking it up was a cluster.  The water jackets have some crud still in them, but I'm not sure what's "too much".  It looks servicable, maybe a coolant change fairly soon?

The piston pins are held in with clips, like circlips but formed wire.  As I recall, the factory manual says the pins can be drifted out with a punch and hammer, and it sounds like it doesn't take a lot of effort to do (I think they show a plastic hammer).

I got the plugs out.  I kept spraying them all afternoon with PB Blaster, and then used a hammer and screwdriver to rotate them and then pluck them with Channellocks as mentioned.  That worked pretty well, with a bigger hammer.  The ones on the sides of the block are between cylinders, the one on the back is on the cylinder.  That one kind of spooked me, because I was hitting on it and it only went in so far, and then I realized I was banging on the cylinder.    I looked it over though, and I don't *think* I did any damage... I hope.  Just a little scuff on the water jacket side of the cylinder, but I couldn't see any indication of anything on the inside wall, and couldn't see any cracks or anything.  That rear one was in really good shape so I didn't have to hit it very hard to get it to move.  Then I had to fight it a bit since it wouldn't rotate, but it wasn't too bad.  Actually, after soaking them and using a bigger hammer they actually came out in pretty short order.

I'll try and find a set of block brushes tomorrow, but I live in Utah county and a lot of stuff is closed.  I need to get some more engine paint anyway, and the wife will probably want me to get her some coffee LOL.  Cleaning everything and painting it is going to take more than stripping it down and re-assembling.

I did notice the box for the rings has specs to gap the rings.  I didn't even think of that, and don't have anything to do that with.  I do have some feeler gauges though.  Guess I need to look for that too.  They are Hastings rings.

ETA: I was going to pull the trans because it's starting to chatter and I didn't want to bolt a nice shiny engine up to a nasty leaked-on transmission.  However, the wife isn't pleased with the expense of what was supposed to be a cheap truck to drive daily.  The transmission shop would rather have the transmission in so they can drive it.  I kind of want to try and rebuild it myself, and think I could, but I really need to get this truck back on the road.  What was supposed to be fixing a couple of lights and a tune up has turned into an engine rebuild, Weber carb conversion, suspension work and rebuilding the entire brake system.   The truck has been in the family since new and was my dad's last so I have a lot of memories growing up in it so I guess it's worth it.

Hint. A properly sized rifle bore cleaning rod and brush might work.

Ha! Duh.  I found the dumbest engine brushes ever (the only ones I could find) that were 1/4" hex quick-release.

There's another passage that needs cleaned out better tomorrow, so I'll do that when I get home.  I have a little surface rust in the crank area now from washing the block out... didn't want to spray too much oil around, hopefully it won't be a problem.  At least it's cleaner, and painted now so I can start re-assembly.