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Posted: 4/21/2017 1:51:00 PM EDT
[#1]
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Posted: 4/21/2017 1:51:10 PM EDT
[#2]
About a quart
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Posted: 4/21/2017 1:52:14 PM EDT
[#3]
BETWEEN A QUARTER TO HALF A QUART
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Posted: 4/21/2017 1:54:05 PM EDT
[#4]
If you pull the filter there will be a giant mess. Proper protocol is to drain all oil via the drain plug, then R&R the filter. There will still be a bunch of oil in and around the filter so I always pack up a bunch of paper towels under the filter to help catch the oil when I remove it. Keep a basin of some sort (pretty cheap at local auto parts store) to catch any drips or spills. It can be done quite cleanly if careful.
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Posted: 4/21/2017 2:01:15 PM EDT
[#5]
Less oil than you should put in your AR to keep it running properly.
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Posted: 4/21/2017 2:18:50 PM EDT
[#6]
The majority of the oil should be in the engine's oil pan (gravity and all that). So, figure the capacity of the filter at least. It will vary, if the oil filter is vertical, if the oil filter is horizontal.....see how that works?
That being said......put an oil catch pan under the expected leak area. Aloha, Mark |
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Posted: 4/21/2017 2:43:37 PM EDT
[#7]
You should do an instructional video for the next guy.
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Posted: 4/21/2017 2:45:30 PM EDT
[#8]
It'll be the same amount of oil leaking out if you change the oil AND the filter.
Put a catch pan under it, remove it, wipe up the mess around the filter, put a new one on, clean up mess....done. It's simple. |
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Posted: 4/21/2017 2:45:58 PM EDT
[#9]
It is permissible to punch a hole in the filter to drain it before you unscrew it.
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Posted: 4/21/2017 2:46:14 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you pull the filter there will be a giant mess. Proper protocol is to drain all oil via the drain plug, then R&R the filter. There will still be a bunch of oil in and around the filter so I always pack up a bunch of paper towels under the filter to help catch the oil when I remove it. Keep a basin of some sort (pretty cheap at local auto parts store) to catch any drips or spills. It can be done quite cleanly if careful. |
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Posted: 4/21/2017 3:12:15 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It is permissible to punch a hole in the filter to drain it before you unscrew it. |
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Posted: 4/21/2017 3:20:36 PM EDT
[#12]
What a time consuming and elaborate way to avoid spending $40 to just do a complete oil change.
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Posted: 4/21/2017 4:10:59 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What a time consuming and elaborate way to avoid spending $40 to just do a complete oil change. |
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Posted: 4/21/2017 4:18:15 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
But what if the filter is still clean? He could just screw it back on. That would be wasting a filter. |
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Posted: 4/21/2017 4:27:35 PM EDT
[#15]
Don't worry about it. Just fill the new filter with oil before you screw it back on. assuming its not mounted horizontally. Guessing its hanging on a GM.
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Posted: 4/21/2017 4:48:20 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't worry about it. Just fill the new filter with oil before you screw it back on. assuming its not mounted horizontally. Guessing its hanging on a GM. |
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Posted: 4/21/2017 4:57:48 PM EDT
[#17]
Dude.........
Ok OP let me help you out here. 1. the oil life % on your cluster is GARBAGE. It is an IDIOT LIGHT. The only time you should ever give that POS any attention is when you are reseting after you change your oil. 2. You should be watching your MILEAGE and changing the oil every 3,000 , 5,000 or X thousands miles that you feel comfortable with. Using shit oil means you need to change it sooner vs. say using a Mobil1 synthetic which can go 5,000 miles and more. 3. CHANGE THE WHOLE FUCKING 6 QTS OF OIL ALONG WITH THE FILTER. Start over and DO IT RIGHT. Get the "cheap oil" out and do a complete oil change taking note of your mileage and then change the oil again after X thousand miles. Doing it the way your described is not only half ass and "real retarded sir" it's an EXCELLENT way to run your truck low on oil or even better overfill it and put pressure on the weaker gaskets and seals. |
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Posted: 4/21/2017 4:59:21 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just rinse the filter out with the garden hose and put it back on. Easy peasy. No need to waste money on a new filter. 
You also want to stick the garden hose in the valve cover to flush all that nasty oil out of the engine too.
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Posted: 4/21/2017 5:14:59 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dude......... Ok OP let me help you out here. 1. the oil life % on your cluster is GARBAGE. It is an IDIOT LIGHT. The only time you should ever give that POS any attention is when you are reseting after you change your oil. 2. You should be watching your MILEAGE and changing the oil every 3,000 , 5,000 or X thousands miles that you feel comfortable with. Using shit oil means you need to change it sooner vs. say using a Mobil1 synthetic which can go 5,000 miles and more. 3. CHANGE THE WHOLE FUCKING 6 QTS OF OIL ALONG WITH THE FILTER. Start over and DO IT RIGHT. Get the "cheap oil" out and do a complete oil change taking note of your mileage and then change the oil again after X thousand miles. Doing it the way your described is not only half ass and "real retarded sir" it's an EXCELLENT way to run your truck low on oil or even better overfill it and put pressure on the weaker gaskets and seals. Prepare for them, as they're coming. Prepare for the "3000 miles is an old wives tale" or the, "that's prior to all the new synthetic oils, new oils can go in excess of 5000 in some cases" I myself use the logic of, "Fuck it, this thing cost $50,000. I'm gonna change the oil every 3,000 miles by myself because it's not hard and what's underutilizing $40 worth of oil by 25% going to damage. |
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Posted: 4/21/2017 6:02:46 PM EDT
[#20]
3,000 is the SOONEST you should feel obligated to change it.
Unless you are running crap oil or a crap filter, somewhere between 3,000 and 5,000 is a reasonable range for getting it done without concern for harm to the vehicle. Do be cognizant of warranty issues. If you extend the intervals beyond the factory recommendation, you may have issues enforcing a drive-train warranty, even if the issue really has no logical relation to the frequency of oil changes. Save every receipt so long as the vehicle is under warranty. |
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Posted: 4/21/2017 6:27:41 PM EDT
[#21]
Dude just change your oil like a man, and stop being a nimrod seriously.
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Posted: 4/21/2017 6:51:42 PM EDT
[#22]
Some of you guys are making this out to be a pretty big deal. Unless it's one of those really poorly placed oil filters it should be a super simple job with no problems. As stated above fill the new filter with with oil if you can and that will take care of most of what you need to add.
Just depends a lot on how it is set up Quote HistoryQuoted:
Agree completely, but I fear you may just have sparked another "how many miles to change my oil" thread argument. Prepare for them, as they're coming. Prepare for the "3000 miles is an old wives tale" or the, "that's prior to all the new synthetic oils, new oils can go in excess of 5000 in some cases" I myself use the logic of, "Fuck it, this thing cost $50,000. I'm gonna change the oil every 3,000 miles by myself because it's not hard and what's underutilizing $40 worth of oil by 25% going to damage. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Dude......... Ok OP let me help you out here. 1. the oil life % on your cluster is GARBAGE. It is an IDIOT LIGHT. The only time you should ever give that POS any attention is when you are reseting after you change your oil. 2. You should be watching your MILEAGE and changing the oil every 3,000 , 5,000 or X thousands miles that you feel comfortable with. Using shit oil means you need to change it sooner vs. say using a Mobil1 synthetic which can go 5,000 miles and more. 3. CHANGE THE WHOLE FUCKING 6 QTS OF OIL ALONG WITH THE FILTER. Start over and DO IT RIGHT. Get the "cheap oil" out and do a complete oil change taking note of your mileage and then change the oil again after X thousand miles. Doing it the way your described is not only half ass and "real retarded sir" it's an EXCELLENT way to run your truck low on oil or even better overfill it and put pressure on the weaker gaskets and seals. Prepare for them, as they're coming. Prepare for the "3000 miles is an old wives tale" or the, "that's prior to all the new synthetic oils, new oils can go in excess of 5000 in some cases" I myself use the logic of, "Fuck it, this thing cost $50,000. I'm gonna change the oil every 3,000 miles by myself because it's not hard and what's underutilizing $40 worth of oil by 25% going to damage. People always have a standard they go by and ridicule everyone else. I always find it funny no one ever mentions oil capacity as it can have a pretty big effect on intervals as well. |
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Posted: 4/22/2017 12:23:43 AM EDT
[#23]
I do mine every 5k but I use the Extended Performance Mobile 1 synthetic that is suppose to be good for 15k miles. This is on a 02 Camry with 247,000 miles. Haven't ever changed the ATF because they say it's good for the life of the vehicle.
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Posted: 4/22/2017 2:53:39 AM EDT
[#24]
The filter holds a quart of oil, the total capacity of most common gas v8s is 5 quarts, so one quart is in the filter and four in the pan. Just changing your oil in the pan means it was only a 80% oil change (20% dirty oil still in it). Now changing only the filter will mean you are changing 20% of the oil. I'm to tired to even do the equation for how much old oil is still mixed in.
You're just going to keep diluting it. |
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Posted: 4/22/2017 3:18:14 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The filter holds a quart of oil, the total capacity of most common gas v8s is 5 quarts, so one quart is in the filter and four in the pan. Just changing your oil in the pan means it was only a 80% oil change (20% dirty oil still in it). Now changing only the filter will mean you are changing 20% of the oil. I'm to tired to even do the equation for how much old oil is still mixed in.
You're just going to keep diluting it. Obviously this wasn't ideal but I feel like many here are making this out to be a much bigger deal than it needs to be. |
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Posted: 4/22/2017 4:17:58 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The filter holds a quart of oil, the total capacity of most common gas v8s is 5 quarts, so one quart is in the filter and four in the pan. Just changing your oil in the pan means it was only a 80% oil change (20% dirty oil still in it). Now changing only the filter will mean you are changing 20% of the oil. I'm to tired to even do the equation for how much old oil is still mixed in.
You're just going to keep diluting it. |
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Posted: 4/22/2017 10:21:17 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
the filter on his suburban is the size of my fist it dosent hold a quart of oil The point many of us are trying to make is don't be an idiot and do a 1/2 ass job on a complex piece of machinery like an automobile. Doing what the OP is trying to do is no different than the guy who has 4 tires that have 20,000 miles on them, gets a flat in one of them and just goes out and buys ONE cheap different tread pattern replacement tire. You have invested THOUSANDS of dollars into your vehicle, you need to treat it as such and not fuck around when it comes to maintenance that YOU plan to do YOURSELF. If you're gonna fuck around and do it wrong, then pay a professional mechanic to do the job. Having worked in this exact industry as a young man I can't tell you how many times I've seen people like the OP who don't change the oil filter with the oil and the other guy above who purposely puts WATER in his oil filter, or people that use air hoses to "clean" air filters and put them back in, or those idiots running oil additives FILLED with teflon, or any number of horribly bad hand me down maintenance "advice". Do it the RIGHT way at the correct time and your car will last you damn near forever. |
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Posted: 4/22/2017 10:22:05 AM EDT
[#28]
Oil filters have anti drain back valves to keep them and the oil galleries above full. So when you remove a filter your also draining that out as well.
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Posted: 4/22/2017 10:35:33 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just rinse the filter out with the garden hose and put it back on. Easy peasy. No need to waste money on a new filter. 
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Posted: 4/22/2017 10:49:13 AM EDT
[#30]
Changing the oil without changing the filter is like putting your dirty clothes back on after a shower.
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Posted: 4/22/2017 10:55:46 AM EDT
[#31]
I wouldn't even bother at this point, just wait until the next oil change.....
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Posted: 4/22/2017 2:12:29 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wouldn't even bother at this point, just wait until the next oil change..... |
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Posted: 4/22/2017 2:24:50 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I just rinse the filter out with the garden hose and put it back on. Easy peasy. No need to waste money on a new filter. 
If it's a good filter, it probably will be fine unless you're going way over on miles (10k or more). Honda has a lot of vehicles that recommend every-other filter changes and most should be good for 10k these days. My 1983 pickup recommends 8k mile oil changes, for "regular service". 3k oil changes are pushed mostly by shops that benefit from it. Most manufacturers are over 3k even for severe-service intervals these days. My 4Runner is 12 mo/10k for regular 6 mo/5k for severe service. I think the wife's Mazda is 4 mos / 3750 severe service, 12mos or the car's oil monitor for regular. I should be able to, and the dealer recommends I stay with 12 mos and 0w20 in my 4runner, but it sure makes me nervous in this dustbowl so I totally understand people wanting to change their oil way too early. In my defense the last Toyota I owned with the same motor said 5w30 only and the current manual states you should go thicker for towing and heavy use--but doesn't specify what grade. |
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Posted: 4/22/2017 5:15:03 PM EDT
[#34]
Thanks for all of the reasonable replies fellas!
I should have been a little more clear on my original post. I wasn't taking the Burb on the vacation...I was taking our pickup and that was also due for an oil-change so I needed to do that one before we left and I discovered I only had one filter on hand. I did a complete change on the truck and had everything out so I figured I would just do the oil really fast on the Burb while I was at it and buy myself some time until I could get a filter for that after vacation and all the craziness after our return. Plus I had some misc. brands of older oil I wanted to get used up. To clear it up, the filter on the Burb is surprisingly small and the system holds 6 quarts. There wasn't going to be a lot of the old oil left in the system. I might only get a sixth of the quart in the new filter when I change them. Our half ton pickup is identical as well. Not much goes in the filter before it's topped off. Plus, the filter is oriented vertically so there is very little fuss when changing it. I was just curious to see who has done it before so I would know what size of mess to prepare for. This ain't rocket surgery guys, I'm going to switch the filter in another couple weeks when I have more time and will just do a full change down the road a little sooner than normal since some of the old oil was left in the system. |
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Posted: 4/22/2017 8:59:40 PM EDT
[#35]
Guess the maintenance Nazis drain their oil coolers and allow the block to drain overnight. There is a lot of old oil in the engine after a normal change. Oil doesn't wear out, the additive package gets diluted. Very little particulate contamination occurs in a modern fuel injected engine. You would be fine to wait until the next oil change to do the filter, or screw one on now if it give you peace of mind. Not going to make any more mess than a regular oil change.
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Posted: 4/22/2017 9:39:22 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for all of the reasonable replies fellas!
I should have been a little more clear on my original post. I wasn't taking the Burb on the vacation...I was taking our pickup and that was also due for an oil-change so I needed to do that one before we left and I discovered I only had one filter on hand. I did a complete change on the truck and had everything out so I figured I would just do the oil really fast on the Burb while I was at it and buy myself some time until I could get a filter for that after vacation and all the craziness after our return. Plus I had some misc. brands of older oil I wanted to get used up. To clear it up, the filter on the Burb is surprisingly small and the system holds 6 quarts. There wasn't going to be a lot of the old oil left in the system. I might only get a sixth of the quart in the new filter when I change them. Our half ton pickup is identical as well. Not much goes in the filter before it's topped off. Plus, the filter is oriented vertically so there is very little fuss when changing it. I was just curious to save who has done it before so I would know what size of mess to prepare for. This ain't rocket surgery guys, I'm going to switch the filter in another couple weeks when I have more time and will just do a full change down the road a little sooner than normal since some of the old oil was left in the system. |
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