so ive got some rusty lines, so I ordered up a multipiece replacement set for my 4x4 02 Silverado 1500.

now that I get to looking at the install, it appears they are clipped all over the top of the transmission, and while 2 are nice and visible on the top of the side of the engine, the 3 appears to be connected buried somewhere up jammed against the firewall, in the diagram. I cannot even manage to see it. The repair manual does not refer to having to pull anything other then the top plastic shield on the engine.

Any advice on how to attack this to get useful access? pull the wheel well apart? pull the wiper tray?

give up and only replace the back half? (don't like the looks of connectors at the transmission flex section, but don't think theres a straight enough section past that that I can fit fittings in to patch it there)

First, you must buy a GM AC Delco line kit OR get a good condition OEM GM used set of lines off a truck someone is parting out.  If you lived close you could come get this set of lines off this 2000 silverado that I pulled the drivetrain from and I'd let them go for $20.

Outside of that here's how you remove them.

1. at back of driver's side of engine you need to get a fuel line disconnector set from say Harbor Freight.  You find the right size and push them into the o ring while pushing towards the front of the truck on the fuel line connector and they release popp back off.  there's also a black plastic line connected there that you need to unhook too.  I think that's an evap line

2. back on the driver's side of the transmission there are 1-2 metal brackets that have plastic clips holding the fuel lines in.  you'll need to remove those.

3. somewhere under the driver's seat area is snakes over to the top of the frame.  there are black plastic clips there and they are sort of a bitch it then hooks up the back of the fuel tank area to another canister and some type of port. and then black plastic lines go into the top of the tank to the fuel pump

Honestly the best way to do this without a lift would be
1. take the bed off the truck to replace the lines on the top of the tank that go into the top to the fuel pump (way easier than dropping the tank)
2. you can also take the cab bolts out and jack up the body by inserting wood blocks or bricks on the front cab perches to support it and give you more clearance.
3. the frame rail part sucks because the ABS brake unit is there and so are the brake lines (which are also probably brittle so be careful)

I had a full set of multipart new ones delivered from Rock auto. ( Flex sections screw on) so I don't have to mess with abs at least. Was supposed to be here Friday for a 3 day weekend to work on it. Stupid DHL got here Monday afternoon. I'll pick up the harbor freight tool.
Researching last night I found some references to dropping the 4x4 drive shaft for room? This looks like it's 4 bolts on a u joint?

Did the brake lines over with copper Nickle already a couple years back.

You can take down the 4x4 front driveshaft if it's in the way (which I'm sure it is).  At the U joint where it connects to the front diff it has 4 11mm bolts.  on the input shaft that attaches into the transfer case there is a metal snap ring that hold the rubber boot of the t-case over the input shaft.  You'll need a needle nose to get it off.  On those fuel disconnects the one that fits is gold in color (comes in a pack of 4 sizes).

well its in progress....

HF tool worked good for that part, took a break to run a fan and clear out the gas smell for a bit.

No one mentioned the fuel line would continue to siphon.

cracked the filter line enough to let it drip come back and there a gallon of gas in the pan

hopefully I didn't mess up the nylon lin from the pump clamping it to break the syphon

well got the back ones are off... pulled the front of the 4x4 axle effortlessly... I should have know it was a bad sign.


cant get a socket on the metal clip right above the tranny...

decided to lift the cab a bit.

Middle bolt fine... front bolt... broke... no idea how I am going to repair the. Rear bolt... wants to round off. Cant use heat as their lots o gas around. penetrating oil wont help, as theres a gap and rubber mount to none of it will get to the area needed.


Resorted to trying to ben dmetal clip pin open above tranny... got it straight... clip wont budge. Tried to file the tab off, cant get leverage.

Maybe if the area smells less gasy tomorrow I can reach the clip with a long sawzall blade... but then no sure how I would secure the replacement lines

Are you talking about the bracket that's on top of the bell housing ? If so that's one 13mm nut that holds in place bolting it to one of the transmission bell housing bolts. and holds the fuel line bracket in place as it comes off the back of the engine / fuel rail.  That should be the only one on the transmission holding the lines before they curve and go run in top of the frame.

yep, having a hell of a time getting a socket on it even with the driveshaft out of the way..... sooo stupid design, one 10 cent bolt instead of the folded metal tab would make it easy.

Dreading this task myself on my 2003 silverado.

if you've jacked up the cab get at it from the top reaching down the back of the engine preferably with an air wrench and it will come right off and the rails (if all 3 are detached from the engine) will swing free.

tried the jack up the cab option, broke off one mounting bolt, and the rear one is fozen on solid

no heat to mess with that since theres gas around

I am off to buy a pass through socket set, and an array of swivles

You broke the head off a body cab mount bolt??????

If you jack the cab you need to remove the front 2 and loosen the back. You'll also need to watch the tension on the ebrake cable.

Use air tools. A 25 gal compressor is only $200 at harbor freight and is well worth it.

Only my 97, I know different year you can peel back the carpet and there's steel knockout doors sealed to the floor where the cab bolt threads are.  I had one break and ended up just drilling through the whole thing and putting a regular nut there and tightened it then covered it up.

Think I am gonna have to drill the floor for the cab mount don't see a access port under the carpet.

Pulled all the front bolts a got about a inch of tilt so I can see the bolt a least now. Got it backed off a hair with an impact before I lost the spot. Had to pack it in before I got frostbite. Will try some more tonight.

well got the new ones in...and cant get the plastic quick connects on the nylon line to stop leaking... going to have to pull the bed and use brass compression fittings I guess

leaking at the connection to the pump or that junction by the charcoal canister?  either way take the 8 bed bolts out and prop it up to get to the top of the tank.  the ones to the pump need to be seated all the way to seal.

in between, got a set of replacement ends to the nylon lines, and cut one to short ( the quick connect that came with the nylon line replacement ends works great, needed to add a second so I picked up some dorman ones that looked the same. keeps leaking

No progress since Friday, been about 15 degrees out and the garage isnt heated.

May try to get the bed loose tonight.

Debating ordering a fuel pump while I have it open, this one has 80k or so on it.

finally a warmer day...

got a compression fitting on the 3/8 nylon main line so that doesn't leak...

turned the truck on and the press fitting on the return line leaked....

been fighting with getting a compression fitting on the one for about 3 hours now...slightly curved so, the plastic ring realllly doesn't want to go on.

still cant get the damn ring to go on... of to the store to buy another fitting..... hopefully another ring will be a tiny bit bigger... otherwise... no idea what to do, don't think theres any safe way to heat and get barbed fittings up in there.

ahah foudn i can get replacement nylon lines... the just call them fuel hoses not fuel lines...

ordered that and a fuel pump since I am in there and this ones got 80k or so on it.

Got the bed tilted and waiting.



also found why I have never been very happy with the brakes.  

DAMN

Kinky