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Posted: 1/11/2017 8:44:21 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Andrewh:
if you didn't, before you fill the tank, make sure you used your old gasket and lock ring with that new sending unit. The ones that come with them are thinner and WILL leak. I did, thanks. Repop lock rings are a known issue for being thinner. I did use the new gasket as the old one was nasty, still on there pretty tight. |
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Posted: 1/12/2017 4:01:48 PM EDT
[#2]
I <3 this thread
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Posted: 1/13/2017 12:59:11 AM EDT
[#3]
My turn!!!
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Posted: 1/15/2017 3:53:20 PM EDT
[#4]
Still adding bits and pieces back to the car. Installed the bumper brackets. I added sound deadening to the roof and will do the same on the firewall and floors. I used Noico, off Amazon. 80mil and was about half the cost of dynamat. Deadens the sound pretty good. Now I can start to put the headliner in the car.
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Posted: 1/15/2017 4:25:19 PM EDT
[#5]
Awesome!
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Posted: 1/15/2017 6:42:32 PM EDT
[#6]
Tagging for mopar muscle pics.
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Posted: 1/15/2017 9:42:11 PM EDT
[#7]
Funny, no one has these simple headlights in stock. Same ones as my 62 but I had the forethought to order multiples last time I ordered parts for the Belvedere. So I put the lights in and the grill. Looking a little bit better.
 Attached File Attached FileTook my heater box apart, need to get back out there and clean it up before putting new foam in it. So much to do.  Attached File |
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Posted: 1/16/2017 4:33:07 AM EDT
[#8]
You're not going to find any parts at Pep Boys or Autozone.
We have a local parts place that has a local warehouse so you can pay for it & pick it up a couple of hours later - otherwise it's an inter net order. As for the lights, you might want to look into converting to LED's now - Mopar charging systems suck as do the original lights. That's on my to-do list... |
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Posted: 1/16/2017 12:04:41 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By shocktrp:
You're not going to find any parts at Pep Boys or Autozone. We have a local parts place that has a local warehouse so you can pay for it & pick it up a couple of hours later - otherwise it's an inter net order. As for the lights, you might want to look into converting to LED's now - Mopar charging systems suck as do the original lights. That's on my to-do list... I'm not going to switch to LEDs, they just don't look right on a musclecar. My plan down the road is to wire the lights through relays. The guy I bought the car from makes relay kits that I will install. Makes them sooo much better. |
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Posted: 1/18/2017 12:35:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: igozumn]
[#10]
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IA, USA
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Posted: 1/18/2017 11:27:01 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By igozumn:
igozumn approves of this thread. My '69 RT/SE https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/321037/city-to-circuit-rosedale-128156.JPG More pics until the op gives an update. |
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Posted: 1/19/2017 12:14:33 AM EDT
[Last Edit: igozumn]
[#12]
1969 Charger R/T SE. Q5 Turquoise, white top, tan leather interior. A/C, power brakes (original drums, but I put discs on the front), power windows, power steering (currently a Firm Feel stage 2, but not sure I like it....), rear window defogger and was originally a column shift auto. Now a 4-speed.
In March of last year, I put on a FiTech fuel injection system and ditched the Holley 750. Carbed: 
FiTech: 
Car has never run better! Cold starts are easy peasy. Fire it up and drive off! No coughing, sputtering. Put an aluminum radiator in. 120 amp alternator. Probably put an electric fan on in the spring. 
Edit: 25 years ago, I stripped and painted the engine compartment. That's why it has decent looking paint. |
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Posted: 1/19/2017 10:58:12 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryLooks like a get-away car from a movie. A cool get-away car! |
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Posted: 1/19/2017 4:50:30 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By igozumn:
1969 Charger R/T SE. Q5 Turquoise, white top, tan leather interior. A/C, power brakes (original drums, but I put discs on the front), power windows, power steering (currently a Firm Feel stage 2, but not sure I like it....), rear window defogger and was originally a column shift auto. Now a 4-speed.
In March of last year, I put on a FiTech fuel injection system and ditched the Holley 750. Carbed: FiTech: Car has never run better! Cold starts are easy peasy. Fire it up and drive off! No coughing, sputtering. Put an aluminum radiator in. 120 amp alternator. Probably put an electric fan on in the spring. Edit: 25 years ago, I stripped and painted the engine compartment. That's why it has decent looking paint. Turquoise with white top, rear stripe and interior has to be one of my favorite color combos. Nice car!! |
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Posted: 1/19/2017 5:01:51 PM EDT
[#15]
I am enjoying all the pics between updates. I can't get enough Mopars!
Heater box reassembled and sound deadening installed on firewall and cowl  Attached FileGot the trunk mat and made up a bracket to hold my jack down.  Attached File Attached FileTried to install the headliner but the sewn in ribs were wrong so i had to order a new one. And I blasted, took apart, cleaned, lubed, painted and re-assembled my driver seat tracks  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 1/19/2017 5:21:34 PM EDT
[#16]
I don't think I posted pics of my engine yet. It came with the car but was in the sellers backyard for quite a while. Although not number matching (VIN on the rail shows it belonged to a 1969 Charger R/T) it is date correct 1969 440 HP block, unmolested.
It had some rust in a few of the cylinders but #3 was stuck good. I had to drill and break the piston to get it free.  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached FileDropped it off at the machine shop on Monday, got a call today that it is crack free and will clean up to .040" I am going to have him do the bottom end and later on I will complete the top end. I ordered... Keith Black Pistons KB237s, flat tops Hughes solid lifter cam 238/242 and EDM solid lifters  Attached FileI plan on going with Stealth aluminum heads, which are closed chamber and about 84cc chambers. Depending on gasket, I should be in the 10.3 to 10.5cr area. Going to get matched springs from Hughes as well. All bearings, timing chains, gaskets, etc are coming from the machinist. On the top, going with an Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane manifold, Jegs ceramic coated headers (1 7/8" primaries) and possibly an 800cfm carb. |
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Posted: 1/19/2017 11:09:14 PM EDT
[#17]
Hella makes a replaceable bulb modern headlight that will fit the 4 headlight bulbs and they are much brighter than old style and use replaceable bulbs
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Posted: 1/19/2017 11:26:13 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
I don't think I posted pics of my engine yet. It came with the car but was in the sellers backyard for quite a while. Although not number matching (VIN on the rail shows it belonged to a 1969 Charger R/T) it is date correct 1969 440 HP block, unmolested. It had some rust in a few of the cylinders but #3 was stuck good. I had to drill and break the piston to get it free. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20161202-131216-129119.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20161202-133450-129121.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20161202-133501-129122.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20161218-001707-129123.JPG Dropped it off at the machine shop on Monday, got a call today that it is crack free and will clean up to .040" I am going to have him do the bottom end and later on I will complete the top end. I ordered... Keith Black Pistons KB237s, flat tops Hughes solid lifter cam 238/242 and EDM solid lifters https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/STL3842BS--1--129129.JPG I plan on going with Stealth aluminum heads, which are closed chamber and about 84cc chambers. Depending on gasket, I should be in the 10.3 to 10.5cr area. Going to get matched springs from Hughes as well. All bearings, timing chains, gaskets, etc are coming from the machinist. On the top, going with an Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane manifold, Jegs ceramic coated headers (1 7/8" primaries) and possibly an 800cfm carb. Here is the part I am lost on . The dual plane intake is a lower rpm street intake , The headers are lower RPM and lower horsepower as well . The heads and cam are higher RPM parts suitable for drag strip use . You can use a lot less cam on the street and a set of 2 inch primary headers will make more power on a 440 . I worked at Dodge many years ago and have friends who race with big blocks . I would still try to keep the bore .030 if possible . I like all the cylinder wall thickness possible |
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Posted: 1/20/2017 12:42:47 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By whiskerz:
Here is the part I am lost on . The dual plane intake is a lower rpm street intake , The headers are lower RPM and lower horsepower as well . The heads and cam are higher RPM parts suitable for drag strip use . You can use a lot less cam on the street and a set of 2 inch primary headers will make more power on a 440 . I worked at Dodge many years ago and have friends who race with big blocks . I would still try to keep the bore .030 if possible . I like all the cylinder wall thickness possible This is the cam description from Hughes... Basic guidelines (These are not absolutes, just guidelines to help you get close on a cam choice) Use: Street Performance, high rise dual plane intake & headers. Mildly ported cylinder heads Idle: Noticable Converter: 3000 stall + Rear gear: 3.55+ What is the deciding difference between 1 7/8" tube headers and 2"? What difference in powerband will I see if I use a smaller cam and 2" headers? The bore size is what the machine shop says it can clean up to. As I said, bores were ridged and #3 needed some work to remove rust. I trust what he says. Pistons are ordered so it is a moot point. |
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Posted: 1/20/2017 12:51:15 AM EDT
[#20]
I am massively jealous of your skills. And this is not a wind up.
I have a question about the engine. Seems like the advent of electronic ignition and fuel injection seriously boosted the reliability of engines. Is that not an option for a 440 or are you building this way to keep it original? Either way, keep the pics coming. I'm digging it. |
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Posted: 1/20/2017 1:09:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: disorientedpilot]
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
This is the cam description from Hughes... Basic guidelines (These are not absolutes, just guidelines to help you get close on a cam choice) Use: Street Performance, high rise dual plane intake & headers. Mildly ported cylinder heads Idle: Noticable Converter: 3000 stall + Rear gear: 3.55+ What is the deciding difference between 1 7/8" tube headers and 2"? What difference in powerband will I see if I use a smaller cam and 2" headers? The bore size is what the machine shop says it can clean up to. As I said, bores were ridged and #3 needed some work to remove rust. I trust what he says. Pistons are ordered so it is a moot point. Nobody asked me but, imo... :) Headers wont make a big difference. I would not sweat them but go with the best fitting headers. Hooker is probably my favorite. Check out engine masters dyno header tests on motor trend on demand for good reference. Imo, the heads are fine and not really that extreme unless ported a lot. With some engines, Al heads mean head gasket problems every 100k or so... rare with the RB mopar. I wouldnt spend the money on porting other than a basic clean up and deshrouding. For the cam, it looks good, but hughes are great tech experts and i would call them and pick their brain for the ideal setup. It should have a good sound. Mopars tend to like bigger cams. Bore is whatever cleanup is required. I would sonic check a mopar past 60 over or for a max effort build. Core shift happens, but my worry would be cracks after pounding the piston out. Magnaflux that! I have seen cracks from that. The edelbrock dual plane is a great intake and possibly the best all around for any rb mopar. Hood fitment is sometimes an issue as the manifold is tall, but I am an Ebody guy, so ymmv. You are probably fine. I would strongly recommend looking at efitech or similar efi systems. Carbs are ok to tinker with, but efi is so much better if you really want to drive your car. Ignition. Look at msd or a new mopar electronic kit. Use vacuum advance. I wouldnt mess with an old distributor. You dont need a full msd box, but thr msd distributors do have rev limiting as an option, which i am a fan of. Depending on your piston/chamber interaction and quench you may be able to get the cr up closer to 11:1 safely with the aluminum heads and intake thanks to the design of the rb motor and heat capacity of aluminum chambers. I would ask hughes about this in addition to cam choice. Efi will also make additional cr easier. Gains in a higher cr will be small, but will give more cackle. The cost will be a need to be more conscious of your mixture, timing, and you wont be able to add nitrous or a supercharger later without some work. If you just want to drive it and make tire smoke, keep your current cr and have some peace of mind. Overall, looks great! |
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Posted: 1/20/2017 1:50:28 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jimmybcool:
I am massively jealous of your skills. And this is not a wind up. I have a question about the engine. Seems like the advent of electronic ignition and fuel injection seriously boosted the reliability of engines. Is that not an option for a 440 or are you building this way to keep it original? Either way, keep the pics coming. I'm digging it. They do. Guys turbocharge these as well. For me it is a cost saving measure. Lots of things I am skimping on, namely the head choice. Lots of good ported heads inthe $2k plus department. Same with a stroker kit, just doesn't seem feasible with my budget. Lots of choices but I will run a carb for the time being. And thanks for the compliment! |
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Posted: 1/20/2017 2:05:31 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By disorientedpilot:
Nobody asked me but, imo... :) Headers wont make a big difference. I would not sweat them but go with the best fitting headers. Hooker is probably my favorite. Check out engine masters dyno header tests on motor trend on demand for good reference. I was looking at Jegs brand ceramic coated headers. Very affordable. TTI if $ didn't matter. Imo, the heads are fine and not really that extreme unless ported a lot. With some engines, Al heads mean head gasket problems every 100k or so... rare with the RB mopar. I wouldnt spend the money on porting other than a basic clean up and deshrouding. I do plan to clean up and port match the heads and have them checked for flatness and probably a valve job. For the cam, it looks good, but hughes are great tech experts and i would call them and pick their brain for the ideal setup. It should have a good sound. Mopars tend to like bigger cams. Bore is whatever cleanup is required. I would sonic check a mopar past 60 over or for a max effort build. Core shift happens, but my worry would be cracks after pounding the piston out. Magnaflux that! I have seen cracks from that. They did check it for cracks, no issues except for the cleanup amount. The edelbrock dual plane is a great intake and possibly the best all around for any rb mopar. Hood fitment is sometimes an issue as the manifold is tall, but I am an Ebody guy, so ymmv. You are probably fine. I haven't found a definitive answer for that. My car is a N96 option air grabber car and know the stock air cleaner will not work without modifying it to sit lower. I would strongly recommend looking at efitech or similar efi systems. Carbs are ok to tinker with, but efi is so much better if you really want to drive your car. Not really in the budget at this time Ignition. Look at msd or a new mopar electronic kit. Use vacuum advance. I wouldnt mess with an old distributor. You dont need a full msd box, but thr msd distributors do have rev limiting as an option, which i am a fan of. Not a fan of the MP ignition kits. I am considering an MSD stand alone distributor. What I am also looking at is a Pertronixs electronic ign kit that fits in a stock distributor. I have one on my 62 Plymouth and it has been bulletproof with their brand of coil. Depending on your piston/chamber interaction and quench you may be able to get the cr up closer to 11:1 safely with the aluminum heads and intake thanks to the design of the rb motor and heat capacity of aluminum chambers. I would ask hughes about this in addition to cam choice. Efi will also make additional cr easier. Gains in a higher cr will be small, but will give more cackle. The cost will be a need to be more conscious of your mixture, timing, and you wont be able to add nitrous or a supercharger later without some work. If you just want to drive it and make tire smoke, keep your current cr and have some peace of mind. It will depend on the condition of the deck. But for a stock, no problems block it will yield 10.3 to 10.5. And if the heads need cleaned up closer to a 81cc chamber it will be higher. I am wanting to run pump gas, this head is closed chamber and the KB 237 piston is very close to zero deck. I have read several articles on quench and the need for aluminum heads to get higher cr without ping which was why I chose the combo. I have a set of 906 heads but $1k on new, aluminum heads is a great deal even if they need tweaked out of the box Overall, looks great! Thanks! |
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Posted: 1/20/2017 2:50:44 AM EDT
[#24]
I 3> seeing old iron saved from the crusher/boneyard. I'm not lucky enough to have the room (at the moment) to take on a project like that. Though, one day, I'd like to tackle something like that. I would probably go down the path of a classic chassis/body, but with modern upgrades. I would probably go with a bolt-on EFI kit, and would make my own custom LED lighting inside the stock housings, and of course modern suspension and brakes.
Maybe after the house is paid off. 
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Posted: 1/20/2017 6:04:47 AM EDT
[Last Edit: shocktrp]
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
I don't think I posted pics of my engine yet. It came with the car but was in the sellers backyard for quite a while. Although not number matching (VIN on the rail shows it belonged to a 1969 Charger R/T) it is date correct 1969 440 HP block, unmolested. It had some rust in a few of the cylinders but #3 was stuck good. I had to drill and break the piston to get it free. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20161202-131216-129119.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20161202-133450-129121.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20161202-133501-129122.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20161218-001707-129123.JPG Dropped it off at the machine shop on Monday, got a call today that it is crack free and will clean up to .040" I am going to have him do the bottom end and later on I will complete the top end. I ordered... Keith Black Pistons KB237s, flat tops Hughes solid lifter cam 238/242 and EDM solid lifters https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/STL3842BS--1--129129.JPG I plan on going with Stealth aluminum heads, which are closed chamber and about 84cc chambers. Depending on gasket, I should be in the 10.3 to 10.5cr area. Going to get matched springs from Hughes as well. All bearings, timing chains, gaskets, etc are coming from the machinist. On the top, going with an Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane manifold, Jegs ceramic coated headers (1 7/8" primaries) and possibly an 800cfm carb. Look into FiTech or Holley Sniper before you pick a carb. I wish I had... |
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IA, USA
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Posted: 1/21/2017 12:06:04 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By igozumn:
1969 Charger R/T SE. Q5 Turquoise, white top, tan leather interior. A/C, power brakes (original drums, but I put discs on the front), power windows, power steering (currently a Firm Feel stage 2, but not sure I like it....), rear window defogger and was originally a column shift auto. Now a 4-speed.
In March of last year, I put on a FiTech fuel injection system and ditched the Holley 750. Carbed: FiTech: Car has never run better! Cold starts are easy peasy. Fire it up and drive off! No coughing, sputtering. Put an aluminum radiator in. 120 amp alternator. Probably put an electric fan on in the spring. Edit: 25 years ago, I stripped and painted the engine compartment. That's why it has decent looking paint. Thanks! Awesome Mopar for sure. I just upgraded my 72 Cutlass to an aluminum radiator and an electric fan last summer. It made a world of difference. I used an early 90's Ford Taurus 2 speed fan and a relay kit from Jegs. |
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IA, USA
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Posted: 1/21/2017 12:10:52 PM EDT
[#27]
Great build and skills op. I'm in need of a Mopar in a bad way. I've had my eye on a 69 Superbee that's been sitting in a garage for 20 years. The guy just can't let it go quite yet. There is also a 63 Polara in my area that would be an awesome candidate for a Max Wedge clone.
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Posted: 1/21/2017 4:05:53 PM EDT
[#28]
all you mopar fanatics should check out graveyard carz on discovery velocity. ya it has the cheesy fake drama but man...late 60's early 70's mopar muscle up the wazoo..
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Posted: 1/21/2017 6:46:36 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Striker:
all you mopar fanatics should check out graveyard carz on discovery velocity. ya it has the cheesy fake drama but man...late 60's early 70's mopar muscle up the wazoo.. I watch it for the car porn. He actually does good work and seems to really enjoy his job lol. As for my motor, I am now leaning toward the Holley Street Dominator intake manifold. Reason being the Eddy RPM is going to create fit issues as it is about the tallest aftermarket manifold available. Guys have used it with a drop base cleaner but it creates some constriction. First world problems 
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Posted: 1/21/2017 6:54:02 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Inspector2211:
Great build and skills op. I'm in need of a Mopar in a bad way. I've had my eye on a 69 Superbee that's been sitting in a garage for 20 years. The guy just can't let it go quite yet. There is also a 63 Polara in my area that would be an awesome candidate for a Max Wedge clone. I have known a few of the "I'm going to fix it up one day" guys. Poor cars turn into mush on the side of the house. My buddys Dad is a big one. He has an un molested 1968 Charger H code 4 speed in Tor Red sitting in a barn. Guy is getting up in years and still says he is going to work on it one of these days. Love the 1969 Super Bee. Tail lights, grill, quarters are all works of art. There is a local body shop whose owner always has a yellow race prepped 69 Bee parked out front, taunting me. I would take that 63 as well......not many 60's Mopars I would turn down if we are being honest
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Posted: 1/23/2017 10:59:52 PM EDT
[#31]
Headliner installed. Pretty easy. Work front to back then side to side. And use good adhesive on the sides.
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ID, USA
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Posted: 1/24/2017 10:55:01 PM EDT
[#32]
This thread is full of win and I fucking love it! Please, keep em coming!!!
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Posted: 1/25/2017 3:05:55 AM EDT
[#33]
Rear glass is in, set with 5/16" 3M butyl window cord and primer. Put the trim in and it ain't perfect. The trim is a little tweaked so it may need some adjustment. Sides and top look good though.
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Posted: 1/25/2017 2:44:00 PM EDT
[#34]
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Posted: 1/25/2017 11:13:42 PM EDT
[#35]
Door hardware is cleaned up, lubed and installed. Door handles will get replaced in the future as they are original and have some pitting.
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Posted: 1/26/2017 12:04:19 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
Door hardware is cleaned up, lubed and installed. Door handles will get replaced in the future as they are original and have some pitting. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170125-193911-133704.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170125-193926-133705.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170125-194009-133706.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170125-194106-133707.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170125-193947-133708.JPG really unbelievable this is one hell of a beauty your skills and craftsmanship is amazing I am sure you will enjoy the hell out of it once completed |
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Posted: 1/26/2017 1:48:11 AM EDT
[#37]
The difference in 1 7/8 to 2 in will be about 25-30 hp on a big block Mopar . I am also a big fan of the Hooker headers . I have used them for several cars. But lets get back to the car . I am glad to see it being saved as well . There is a guy local to me with a body shop who probably has 50 Mopars and a few others sitting in the back. He buys every one that turns up. He has a lot of B-bodies . He just picked up a Little Red Truck .
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Posted: 1/29/2017 12:39:22 AM EDT
[#38]
Finished up the firewall and got my dash installed. Cannot say I am thrilled with the tach location so I may move it. Then started with wiring which went pretty easy but still more to finish up with.
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Posted: 1/29/2017 2:35:25 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
Finished up the firewall and got my dash installed. Cannot say I am thrilled with the tach location so I may move it. Then started with wiring which went pretty easy but still more to finish up with.https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170128-202740-135803.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170128-205354-135804.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170128-205405-135805.JPG What's wrong with the tach in the dash? |
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Posted: 1/29/2017 10:21:39 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1969GTX]
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By shocktrp:What's wrong with the tach in the dash? |
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Posted: 1/29/2017 10:56:32 AM EDT
[#41]
If you don't want the tach on the dash or the column, which is my preference on non E body cars, is your car a center console car? It might look nice on the console.
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Posted: 1/29/2017 3:25:13 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By disorientedpilot:
If you don't want the tach on the dash or the column, which is my preference on non E body cars, is your car a center console car? It might look nice on the console. I'm going to keep it on the dash, just need to move it over to the right somemore. I was using pre existing holes to see how it lined up. |
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Posted: 1/30/2017 10:15:32 AM EDT
[#43]
Driver side motor mounts are known to come apart so here is an easy fix. Drill 2 holes through the mounts and engine plate, bolt in 2 grade 8 3/8" bolts with a little wiggle room. This allows the engine to move using the eubber mount but all slack is taken up under torque.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/30/2017 10:51:05 AM EDT
[#44]
interesting. Since it isn't under compression, did you locktight the nuts?
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Posted: 1/30/2017 12:26:22 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Andrewh:
interesting. Since it isn't under compression, did you locktight the nuts? I deformed the nuts in a press. I like this better than nylock. |
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Posted: 1/30/2017 6:34:50 PM EDT
[#46]
$920 worth of engine goodness showed up today. I will take the pistons and rings to the shop tomorrow. I plan on installing the cam myself.
Also, Keith Black is not making America great again... Pistons are hencho en Mexico 
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Posted: 1/30/2017 10:28:31 PM EDT
[#47]
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Posted: 1/31/2017 1:22:53 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
$920 worth of engine goodness showed up today. I will take the pistons and rings to the shop tomorrow. I plan on installing the cam myself. Also, Keith Black is not making America great again... Pistons are hencho en Mexico
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170130-153336-136871.JPG Why not SRP Pistons? |
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Posted: 1/31/2017 1:39:32 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TZLVredmist:
Why not SRP Pistons? Because I had never heard of them until your post
Just looked at them and real similar to the kb237 |
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Posted: 1/31/2017 9:25:11 AM EDT
[#50]
Hyperutectics? Watch that top ring gap!! I built my 5.0 using KB Hyperutectics. Got done and was cleaning up the shop and found the instructions on how the top ring is supposed to extra wide for heat expansion. Google will show you some really graphic images from engine builders that didn't do this.
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