I decided not to Hijack the hummer thread and will keep this as a small ongoing post about our 5 ton.


In 2001 we decided we needed a large truck for Hurricanes and floods because our area covered by my dept has seen its fair share.   We were given on loan a 1967 2 1/2 ton truck. It was a manual transmission and was rough when we got it .  It got used to pull trees blocking the roads so the Fire and police could get by . It did well but recently the front axle died and the clutch exploded finally. We figured instead of dumping 5 grand to get it fixed it was time for it to be returned.  So we decided to visit our GSA retailer site in Baton Rouge. We managed to find four 5 ton trucks all in running condition but with varying wear and tear.





 

We selected the first one on the left and the third one as they appeared in the best condition as far as hours/mileage tires and body

Number 3 up close

[url=https://flic.kr/p/H9ksiQ]

We ended up choosing the first one because it had 16 k miles and 60 hrs . It came with a winch and a combo dump/troop bed. The body was not as nice as # 3 but had far less time on it.

The price tag is displayed on everything at GSA. The original price was 92k and the GSA price to us was 10k. To get this pricing and availability you have to be a State city or Gov agency .

We happily purchased it as well as a hard top for 1k.

During the trip back it began to stall 40 miles into the ride. Tanks were "switched" to no avail. It then got towed back to our station.    It was discovered that there is a second switch behind the drivers seat to actually swap the tank and not just the gauge

After this got sorted out after we read the manual the cleaning began. I pressure washed the asphalt from the back

[url=https://flic.kr/p/HhEnUr]

Our Mechanic got the fluid changed and now she runs great... more updates to follow.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/HhEnsp]

Did someone say 5 ton? Yes, I know I'm in front of a deuce. Most of our trucks were on missions at the time.



IIRC the gauge switch is only there to tell you about the fuel levels in each tank.  They're fun trucks for sure. I spent 8 years driving all sorts of them in the Army. Mainly spent my time on the 5 ton tractors and HETs.

Awesome!

I have two 2.5 tons....


But I would love a 5 ton!

Ya that was an expensive mistake.  Any tips you can share?

We asked.   They had no idea.  LMTV was also available but sales rep told us they dont do well in water because the electronics can become easily submerged.  Had 2 in the back that were dead from this

nice

After owning a Deuce for a few years...I am now saving up for a 5-ton

There's no reason you can't tie the tank selector valve into the gauge switch. A little wire, some terminals and heat shrink tubing, and an SPDT relay should do it.

We have a 12 volt conversion and numerous Rigid lights as well as emergency lights and siren to move over from the 2 1/2 ton.  Im guessing they may resolve the fuel gauge issue as it was reading full and was empty

I'll try to jar the cobwebs out of my head and see if I can remember anything that may be of use. I got out in 1999. Damn, it's been that long already......

I've driven all over the place in one of those. We were using them to ford flood waters in Des Moines when it flooded.

I like the older LMTVs more for pulling stuff, but I can see what that mech meant with the water fording.

I had a M35 and two M923's: the Five tons are head and shoulders above the Duce, however for brutal simplicity and reliability the original 2-1/2 ton truck is had to beat....not as easy to drive or comfortable as the five tons, but their built like a farm tractor.
Do not confuse the "A3" refurbs with Cat engines, Allison Automatics, power steering, super singles, CTIS, etc. with the LD465 multi-fuel modles.

OP  That truck has super singles indictave of the A3 refit:  they took out the 250hp 855cid Cummins and replaced them with the newer Cummins engine: more horsepower, but not as much torque as the original engine.
While the earlier 800 series look  tougher, more old school, the newer 900 series you have now are superior trucks.
BTW: DO NOT, again DO NOT use reverse with the transfer case in Low Range, else you'll have a hazmat spill and wrecker bill to deal with.  

Ill take that advice.  So no reverse in low gear? Any reason?

It's in the tech manual, but they have a habit of cracking the transfer case if you do it under even the slightest load. There's a lot of torque there and it jacks things up.  In low range, I want to say the gear ratio is like 10:1. Forward in first is like 4:1. There's actually an MWO kit available for the 900 series that blocks the truck from being put into reverse in low range.

Sad, I remember when those came out. We borrowed 2 with fuel pods, one caught on fire, while the other's seat was destroyed by another troop in a fit of anxiety.

Sure beat to hell our 5-ton MoGassers. Damn those were junk.

Folks bitched about the super singles when they first came out, bed height=more work.

Lawman pinned it. I forget the exact numbers but it was incredibly low, and which caused the case to fracture.

The early LMTV/MTV made by Stewart & Stevens are the ones currently being auctioned through iron planet and gov liquidation....these all have early mid-range CAT motors with Allison WC transmissions.  When they loose electrical power, you're walking. Now even though they don't play all that well, they WERE made to ford several feet of water all while being "Soldier proof" (anyone that's ever served knows what I'm talking about)  Despite the problems, they really aren't all that bad.  Driveline wise, the Rockwell rear diffs are bad about stripping the pinion gear off.
Would I have one? yes, but only because I know how to work on them.....Should you? Only IF you can follow the Technical Manuals and/or know someone that does.  

Thanks again for the advice.   I am trying to put labels on some of the swiches and levers.  We set the headlights on in the m35 and had a main power switch under the seat.   I will definitely let them know about reverse in low gear.  I am already trying to imagine how Im going to see if I have to treat a patient in the back.  We have talked about cutting an out of service ladder and adding it to the back to make climbing with the super singles.  After I pressure washed it the other day and got up and down about 25 times my arms were spent. But im short so climbing is a must no matter the tire size

Yeah, it was the transfer case that caught on fire.

Set of steps from a mobile home.  
Actually, they made steps and ladders for most all the trucks, just have to look around (or under)  

We looked all over for hidden goods.  No such luck.  Only unit markings are left.  They even took the fuel can They did leave 3 inches of road asphalt in the bed.

I was in 702nd back in 01.  Where was that taken?  Also, I believe that's a 5-ton.  



 

UPDATE.  5/21.  Winch oil was literally water. Drained and changed and now winchworks about 75%.  I sprayed rust prevent on most of the bad spots. Were working on a paint scheme. Thinking black rims, fire red hubs And fire red above bumper line.  CanvAs will most likely be painted Khaki.  I want to recamo as well as about 3 others but majority rules. Does anyone know a way besides bead blast to get the paint even? Maybe sand and grind the rough areas and primer on top? Paint most likely will not be clear coated very much

It may be. The wheel works are a bit rusty and don't work like they used to. As for where it was taken, 1996

That's CARC (Chemical Agent Resistant Coating) and the fumes & sanding dust are VERY hazardous to health. You need to have a full respirator to apply it or to keep from inhaling the dust when sanding or blasting. Definitely something you want to leave to a pro.

Thanks.   I knew the old M35 had this issue.  Is there led in the paint?

If it's stenciled CARC then the paint is Chemical Agent Resistant Compound and isocianate: bad ju-ju to breath the fumes or particles from grinding, welding, sanding, etc.   When you smell the paint burning, you are inhaling fumes that can/will make you sick; how much is an unknown variable, sans to say you should wear proper protective gear.
Lead in paint:  They used to add it because it worked!  Wear a respirator or at least a M95 dust mask when removing lead based paint.

As always YMMV, and "Shoot, shovel, shut-up."  

You could probably get away with wet sanding it, with a tarp or plastic sheet underneath to collect the runoff. Have one person using a DA and another directing just enough water to keep dust from coming off. Allow the water in the plastic to evaporate, then roll up the plastic & dispose of as hazardous waste. Still wear respirators, and I'd wear gloves & tyvek coveralls with the sleeves taped to the gloves.

Yikes. Maybe we will just touch up the paint .. Someone around might be able to sand it but im guessing its gunna cost a lot more than they think . Thanks again. No updates for recently. Only that truck is parked outside now.  

Need suggestions for internal storage.  Waterproof would be better.  Expecting a lot of rain soon.  Maybe I will get some action shots