You will. It just takes so many cleanings I lost count.



My paint is officially done (except one small spot at the driver's side hood hinge that somehow both Dave and I missed and is still tan ). Didn't have time to take a ton of pics but got a couple. Dave did an awesome job on the camo and taught me some paint stuff (he's done quite a bit of auto paint).

A couple takeaways with the Sherwin Williams CARC:

- Pot time once you've mixed it up is very short. Only mix enough as you go, like 1 quart at a time.
- It is much easier to spray when it is diluted. Also much easier to spray when you aren't running a strainer in the gun.
- 1 gallon of green CARC, thinned to 20% is probably close to enough to do two trucks in one color. The gallons of black and brown will leave an absurd amount left over. Either make sure you've got more than one vehicle to paint or someone to buy the left overs.
- The CARC is pretty forgiving on application. I thought for sure it would look like Michael J. Fox did the paint but it came out very smooth.

With how it turned out, I very highly recommend using the CARC. It came out looking great. It has a much lower luster than the Rapco CARC substitute. If I get a chance, I'll take a pic of Dave's and my truck side by side to see if a picture show the difference. The CARC is much flatter.

Also, very highly recommend the DeVilbiss DeKups system. Makes application a much easier process when you can switch and throw away the liner cups as you want as well as run lacquer thinner through to keep it clean.

Anywho, here's the pics...

The green dried this morning before I added the additional 2 coats:




What was once tan is now green!




Here it is with the fresh camo Dave did. He literally just finished spraying the black and touching up part of the brown. That's why it's still wet:







We put the old windshields back in to block overspray of the black/brown into the interior.

Can't wait to start putting it back together! Going to wait until next weekend though after it's had a chance to fully cure. Will start unmasking it tomorrow after work.

I finally finished with phase 1 of my tag light and reverse lights (and I also downloaded the imgur app).

https://imgur.com/gallery/287pL

I drilled out the holes that were already at the corners to 3/4" and installed those button LEDs. I wanted to keep it looking clean (until I pile on a bunch of spotlights). For now, there's just a switch for activation, but eventually, I plan to install a reverse switch.

For the plate light, I just made my own splitter to go between the vehicle harness and the passenger taillight (circuit 21) to provide power to the LED plate light. Now, its on any time the headlights are on.

Now, if only they'd send me a dadgum sf97, maybe I could get a real plate.

Those are pretty slick looking for reverse lights! Where'd you find those?

Northern tool in the trailer section. About $3 each IIRC. 3/4" LED button lights. They're actually meant to be running lights. Unfortunately, it was really dark when I got finished, so I don't know how well they'll show up in broad daylight, but they're very bright at night. Right now, I have a fuse and a switch running off just the rear battery. I wasn't sure if they would like 24v since they were designed for 12v.

ETA: I just checked them again. They're bright enough for daytime use if anyone wants to use them. I posted a photo of the package to imgur so you can find them. Name brand is Blazer. I see they're on clearance here, so you might want to pick them up if they are at your store as well. I'm sure you could find them other places, but get them while they're cheap. They have a 6-pack for $16 right now.

I wish my truck looked as good as yours.

At that price I might just have to swing by and grab a couple even if I don't end up using them.

And thanks! It's taken a year and a half of busting my ass and throwing enough money at it... At this point, It's about 75% where I want it.

paint looks great.  the truck im buying is faded some but not enough to warrant a total repaint until i really want to do so.  

how did you guys trace out the brown and black pattern?  ive heard of guys using chalk to draw it on after the green base is on there.

what kind of prep did you do to the truck?  its not like you shot over gloss so i dont know if you had to rough up the old paint much at all.

still waiting on the new KY title for "my" 2 door truck.  are fiberglass X doors really all $750+ like i keep seeing everywhere?  $500 for two doors i could swing but damn.  i wont touch that on principle alone.

Here's the package if you decide to go get some lights, just so you know what to look for:

https://imgur.com/gallery/aJ0sJ

I'm going to have to drive to Ohio and get you to paint mine.

Thanks!

For the patterns, Dave originally used TB 43-0209 as a reference for his truck since it was tan. He then went and used chalk to draw dashed outlines of both. I looked at his compared to other trucks and it was spot on. When he did my truck he brought his over for reference, as well as took pictures of his on his phone, and repeated the chalk outlines on mine. He did have to make corrections to the pattern but, the chalk rubs right off. To actually lay down the pattern he first did a round spray pattern to outline each color section then widened it to fill it in. First he did the brown and then overlaid that with the black.

As for prep, nothing too involved. A while back Dave had rented a heated pressure washer for some projects and invited me to use it while he had it. So first I gave it a good hot water pressure washing. Then I tore everything down and pressure washed it with my regular pressure washer, including pressure washing off my old decals. Then I used ProForce Degreaser (from Sam's Club) diluted and applied with the soap applicator on my pressure washer and rinsed. I finished it up using lacquer thinner to get the adhesive left behind by the decals and acetone to clean any remaining grease spots. When pressure washing I made sure to get as much loose paint off. Thankfully there wasn't much. If you've got big patches of bare aluminum, you'll want to put on some Alondine. Other than that, just mask everything off and go to town!

And yeah, it's unfortunately a seller's market on X-doors. The only way you're getting any cheap is making a trip to Southern Metals and hoping they have some but, the haven't had any new inventory in weeks, since before I even went down there. That or the Plan B doors but those have mixed reviews.


Haha! I can do solid colors no problem but I just don't have the eye and the hand to do the camo.

Thanks for the pic of the package!

Got my keyed ignition installed tonight.

https://imgur.com/gallery/yr4cW

Now, the key has to be turned to on, and the original switch has to be set to run also. Completely reversible without drilling out the hole of the original switch. A little more security and I'm also going to hide a battery cut off.

Not sure why the links aren't active.

Attached File


Anyone lose control on a load on I 10 west In Alabama/Miss today?

Nice! Looks out of the way...

As for the links, just put [ url] and [ /url] (without the spaces at the front and end of the link. The ARFCOM board software doesn't automatically hotlink.




No but I did spot these on I-71/75 near Florence, KY today. Probably headed to Campbell or Knox...

Was going back through my phone clearing out old pics and the pics I jut posted made me realize I forgot to post these that I spotted on my trip down to Southern Metals. Most likely headed to Bragg.








Some very cool GMVs!

Very nice job Ryan.  You give me another motivational post.

I didn't realize the Sherwin Williams was water based.  I've always use oil based paint.  I might have to give it a try.

But it is going to be a while before I fully paint mine.  Way too many things still to put on. Winches, Turret, Hard top, gas can mounts....and on....

SF-97 arrived yesterday with only 9 days left before I start paying late registration penalties. Spending the day in govt hell. A line for the privilege of getting them to give me a property tax bill. A line at a different office to pay the tax bill. At least that was only just over $30. A different building for the DMV and another line. Already been through part A where you get your number and part B where they figure out that they don't know what to do with you (and put you aside while they call headquarters--probably a bad thing, it's got me nervous). Siting here waiting for them to decide something and call me back up. I should've gone to a smaller office.

ETA:  original office said no, but success! Went to a small town one county over and got it. At the bigger office, the lady actually said, "you can't use a 'certificate to obtain a title' to get a title. You have to have a title first." What a dummy.

What tough books are yall using?

Any place you guys could recommend?



We need a .mil  vehicle subforum

Not a half bad idea!

Posted to your GD thread you paged me to.

Ryan and all,

Anyone able to get their tracking software to recognize the builtin GPS on the GD8200's?
Mine won't recognize it.  I'm using TOPO USA.  I've used it for years in other laptops with external GPS's attached with no issues.
I've looked at the Com ports and other info on the installed navigator software to see if I can replicate that in my software, but it still wont connect..
I can't find the GPS in the device manager, so I haven't found where it resides to look at how it is set up.
Anyone found where it in the windows architecture?

Yes, I was able to use Streets And Trips with it no problem.

I've played around with DuOS for on board Android emulation a little and it can use the GPS but, it seems to be hit or miss. Sometimes it will act like the GPS is in use outside of it and tied up. A reboot of the laptop seems to take care of it. There doesn't seem to be any way for DuOS to take control of it.

It should auto default to COM3.

Just keep in mind, only one software app can use the GPS at once since it is a serial connection.

Roger That,

Yeah, understand the COM port availability and it being on COM3.

I'm thinking my software is a little old (about 10 y.o.) and just can't recognize the GPS as it is configured in the Laptop.

I was hoping to avoid buying new software but I think that may be what I need to do.

Thanx

Have any of y'all updated the OS on the GD8200?

Nah, I'm pretty happy with Win7. Not a huge fan of Win10.

I'm happy with 7 too.  I hate learning new OS's.

I still have XP and Vista on some of my other laptops.

I didn't see Hagerty listed for insurance. That's who I went with after USAA canceled me (in their words, "We should never have issued you a policy for that type of vehicle,"--not as upsetting as the next comment, "We're not sure we would have covered it if it had been in an accident,"), and after State Farm never called back (even after I gave them Ryan's agent's contact info so that they could easily figure out how to set up the policy).

Also, for the registration process, in SC, I would avoid the Greenville (University Ridge) location (that's where the lady told me I needed a title rather than a "certificate to obtain title"--she clearly had never seen an SF-97 and did not know what to do with it). After the one lady made several trips to ask other agents how to proceed, she said, "My boss will have to call headquarters."  HQ was also clueless about how to proceed, however, they did get on a high horse about the off-road notation and state that there was no way to convert an off-road vehicle to an on-road vehicle (though they did admit that you could build a dune buggy in your garage and get it on the road). I ended up leaving there and going to Woodruff.

At the other location, I buried them in paperwork.  I showed them my email where I won the auction, my invoice from gov planet, my email certifying my payment, my notice that my EUC was approved, my bill of sale, my insurance paperwork, my SF-97, and the notarized form transferring ownership from gov planet to me. The attitude at this office was much more figuring out how to help versus how to shut me down. The lady was very confused, but asked a fellow employee how to do things and pushed everything right on through. They told me I was going to have to pay sales tax all over again and get a refund from gov planet for the tax. They said the policy went into effect on 1 July. I pointed out that I had purchased before this date and they let me out of that even though the computer insisted that I pay it again. They kept my invoice showing the payment of state sales tax in case they needed to defend themselves again their own bureaucracy.  The lady who issued my temporary tag works at this office and she knew enough to tell me that I would need my government certificate (SF-97) to get a title, so she clearly would've known what it was if she had been the one behind the desk that day.

I would also avoid the Blythewood location since this is where the Greenville office called.  Being a LEO helped absolutely none. I hate the DMV. Last year they tried to suspend my license because I didn't have insurance on a car I had sold two years previously.

Awesome! Glad you're finally on the road!

I'll try to remember to add your process to my OP for South Carolina tomorrow.

I have Hagerty after switching from JC Taylor. I believe Ed also has Hagerty. So far they have been very easy to work with and do not have any restrictions like JC Taylor did.

As for the DMV stuff, I have found the rural offices are more willing to help. Here in Texas, the offices closer to Houston have turned people away, but the offices in the rural outlying areas have helped people. The one I go to (30 miles outside of Houston) was a quick process. I was shocked and since then have directed several people there and they have had similar results.

If the weather holds out tomorrow afternoon, the seller will be delivering "my" truck down here to Georgetown and off to the DMV we will go.  Truck is already registered and the title came in after he prodded the local DMV and the goons in Frankfort (the hive of kentucky bureaucracy).  Turns out after almost 4 weeks of waiting for the title to show up it was just sitting around unmailed.

I started on insurance right before I even went to see the truck for the first time.  My state farm guy in Lexington didn't work on anything for weeks, really.  Underwriters initially said no, and I went elsewhere.  Hagerty's was on the ball but would only do full coverage at about $45 a month, which is ridiculous.  Kentucky Farm Bureau was floored by my request but responded 5 days later with a surprising "yes".  It was gonna be $30 something for full coverage if I put everything I own with them.  Of course I didn't want full coverage for a hmmwv but I was too busy to follow up on what liability or everything except collision would cost.

This whole time the seller was set up at $7 a month liability-only with his State Farm guy a few counties over.  That agent's office never would contact me or my SF agent.  I think said agent knows his policy isn't correct and doesn't want to get caught on it.  In addition, Ryan Ruck offered his SF policy information from Ohio to help things along.  I offered that to SF and they acted like I hadn't even said it.  After about three weeks I threatened my agent to switch to KFB, and he finally did about 10 minutes of work and discovered that hey, all of a sudden state farm in lexington will cover the humvee!  wow, imagine that.  I fully intend to make the switch to KFB once work dies down a little and I can compare everything I have insured across the board, but state farm is offering liability and comprehensive for $29 a month.  That is good enough for me to get started with.  I can't imagine why its that expensive to insure a 23 year old truck that is listed at about 12K in value, for a guy with no accidents and a home and like 4 other vehicles on the policy.  Maybe because I'm 30?  It all seems like some bullshit to me.

I contacted my local DMV a month or so ago to ask if we would be good to transfer this existing road title when the time came, and I got a quick response explaining they were aware of 'some' humvees being titled but weren't yet sure which ones.  But they claimed if it was already titled in state that it should be a simple transfer.  We will see I suppose.  

Will post pics and write up to go along with the truck sometime this coming week.  Have to go out of town with the wife for about 5 days starting friday...and in the meantime have to work my butt off to get ready to leave.  The truck will pretty much just get loaded into my garage and I might have a chance to drive into G-town one evening before leaving.  The suspense will be killing me.  

Truck is basically a complete 2 man setup with troop seats and bows/cover, but I will be looking for a few things to spruce it up.  So far I'm interested in a radio tray of some sort for cab storage.  I would like to do the airlift rear bumper so I have something to keep people from plowing into the rear of the body at stoplights.  May be interested in a rhino tire mount after that, haven't decided.

With the painting done I decided it's time to finish off the deep water fording kit so it's more than just looks and I've already spent money on the most expensive parts.

I had ordered the hardest to find parts, the special CDR valve and dash selector valve, from Mac Motors several weeks back when I had an order in with them and, the dash plate for the selector valve from Kascar when I was ordering my new decals from them.

So I went ahead and ordered the last of the parts I should need to include the power steering cap and engine oil dipstick tube from eBay and, from Kascar the sensor cup, sealing trans and oil dipsticks, and trans dipstick tube. I was actually pretty surprised how cheap the parts were at Kascar.

Looking at the diagrams and parts lists, it appears all of the hose that interconnects everything is simple 1/4" ID hose so I ordered a bulk 25' roll of fuel grade hose from Amazon.

That leaves only some brass barb fittings for the hoses, various tees and the like.

So, anyone have any recommendations on places to get those? I was going to stop by TSC since I know they sell them. Just wondering if anyone knew of any place else that would be priced well.

Once it's done, I really need to sit and add up the cost of all the parts. I know it's going to come in far cheaper than buying the whole deep water fording kit...

Truck is about 80% back together at this point. Still need to get some bigger stuff installed like my front bumper, snorkel, exhaust stack, and light bar.

Also ordered some of that D shaped weather seal from db Engineering to do my door openings and, some outdoor grade Velcro for the cargo area cover around the rear quarters. I think those will greatly improve sealing up the truck when the doors and tops are on, which is going to be right around the corner...

Been a few days and I've finally had time to sit down for a minute.  Got this 1994 M998A1 2 seater on monday from the fella that got it at auction and flipped it.  6.5 GEP and pretty clean but the paint is faded and Ryan Ruck's post earlier has got me inspired to repaint in the same 3 color camo.  Truck escaped the DRMO process with the unit markings intact from a field artillery guard outfit here in KY.  Immediately I'm gonna get looking for some 383 in spray cans so I can refinish the bows and small parts (rapco looks like a possibility for spraypaint).  Passenger side door window zipper let loose from the vinyl so I'm gonna stitch that up and let it ride until the day I might find some X doors.  Top vinyl is pretty faded but I may let it ride.  Looks like I can get one brand new for a decent price so I may go with that.  

Wiper washer won't spray but I haven't gotten in to see if its clogged yet.  Mounted a piece of steel with a 90 degree bend right under the left side of the body using bolt holes that were existing and stuck the license plate on it.  Later this year I will get after an airlift bumper to give the truck a fighting chance at the traffic lights.  

I'm not thrilled with one of the front tires and I want to have a spare sitting around the garage so I'm considering new tires...but I noticed that the goodyear directional ones that are on it are listed at like $660 a piece new so won't be headed that route.  I'm also in the market for a basic radio tray for the sole purpose of in cab phone and what have you storage, not actual radio equipment.

Put about 45 miles on it since then and alot of that is highway driving at 55mph.  Oil pressure sits at about 30 which seems maybe a little low to me (isn't 40 about normal once warmed up?) and temp stays at 210 or 215ish with the normal fan coming on for 5-10 seconds once in awhile.  For some reason I remembered the fan to suck power while running but it doesn't seem to do so in reality.  And it baaaaarely fits in one of my tiny 8 foot garage doors.  I had to back in while riding the brake pedal and stop to remove the pass door and fold the mirrors in.  Funny thing is, with the mirrors folded the widest point of the whole rig is the door handles.


Beyond happy with the purchase and look forward to tinkering with the truck.  It brings back alot of not-so-distant memories.  

Augas,
Meant to comment on your post and forgot.

Good looking truck!

The washer pump is a common failure item. See this post on SS for a cheap replacement pump.

The HMMWV looks at home bunked with his little brother.



I got some work done today. Still putting things back together from the painting. The radio tray was about the last of it which I hit with some Rapco rattlecan. While I was reinstalling that, I put in my new cup holders. I'm extremely pleased with how they turned out! Finally a cup holder that doesn't suck!




I do need to start working on getting my VIC-3 actually installed since the only thing I'm missing at this point is one crew station.

I had also ordered some of the X-135 adhesive backed gasketing from db Engineering with the intent of using it to surround my door openings to better seal my doors. Had to call db Engineering since they don't have it on their online store. I ordered 1 roll per door and an extra roll to put at the Velcro seam on my soft top to hopefully channel rain down to the sides instead of into the cabin.

Very pleased with this product! It is perfectly sized to fit along the door ridges and the top rails. I opted to keep it in a single piece running it around the door to reduce spots for water intrusion and found the material folds into itself very well and stays stuck in place nicely. The adhesive is great and sticks to the CARC and Monstaliner alike with no problem. It also curves with the lines, such as those at the rear door, quite well. Can't think of a single thing I don't like about it except when test fitting a door, I found it is now quite difficult to latch the door. I may need to see if I can trim the back of the catch on the handle to allow more clearance as I've already got the catches on the body as far out as they will go.












Also mounted up the HMMWV tow bar I picked up from Southern Metals, since that seems like the best place to keep it, and installed a mud flap kit I just picked up since prices have finally started coming down on those.






That rear pic makes me realize I still need to add the unit markings back on...

Truck looks great! I'm enjoying watching it come together!

Thanks!



I also forgot to mention in my last couple update posts that since painting I've applied the new marking decals I picked up from Kascar, for things like sling and tie down points. I've got to say, I'm not entirely pleased with how they've worked out.

Some have stuck just fine while others were nothing but headaches trying to get the letters to stick to the body while taking off the backing paper, namely the "Sling And Tie Down" stickers on the back. Some of those letters have already started coming off. Thankfully I've got some that came with the mud flap kits that are supposed to be installed on the bumper that I'm just going to put on the body.

It seemed like the ones I had problems with were more prone to sticking to the paper than the body. I know it's not the paint since I put them on before I even drove the truck anywhere after finishing the painting so I'm wondering if they used some substandard vinyl since I'm sure these were die cut either in house or by a local supplier. They are the correct font and size though so they do look good when they do stick.


I will pay Kascar a compliment though, among my recently ordered DWF kit parts was the trans dipstick tube. The online listing said the one I ordered was a DWF tube which has a flared end for the sealing dipstick to seat into and the listing picture even confirmed. Well, a standard tube showed up. I called Kascar and they said they'd check into it. About 30 minutes later I got a call back that the tube I received was correct for the part number ordered but they admitted someone screwed up with the part listing labeling it as the DWF tube. They said they would send me the DWF tube but they didn't have any in stock so they were going to just issue me a refund and to not worry about returning the standard tube. Ended up finding the DWF tube on eBay for something like $30 compared to the $7ish the regular tube was listed as on Kascar.

New, modular slave cable is done!

Ryan,  Your truck is really looking good...It's come a long way since post #1.

You aren't kidding! And thank you!

In fact, going to be entering it into a car show (to benefit a local veterans home) this Saturday along with my buddy Dave's truck. Guess we'll see who's is better!

Still seems like I've got so much stuff to get done on it though...

I second that!  the truck is looking really good Ryan.  I will for sure be painting my truck perhaps in the spring, once my home projects die down.  It looks like your radio tray area is becoming populated, the way these trucks are meant to be.  I am 6'2" and I got bitched at for leaning way back in the turret once and accidentally toeing the power switch for all that mess of radio stuff.  I learned to keep my feet to myself after that.  

I like your cup holder setup and I may do something similar.  In the meantime I'm going to track down that basic radio tray and maybe a piece intended for mounting a GPS (DAGR?) that supposedly is good at holding a smartphone beside the driver.  If anyone has a radio tray laying around they don't want, let me know.  

I know a fella going to southern metals maybe in september that said he wouldn't mind picking me up a few tires on wheels and maybe an airlift bumper if they have some of those new loads of them that folks have been talking about.  I'm really excited about getting one of those, but I don't know if I'll do the rhino tire carrier on it yet.  If anyone makes the trip in the meantime let me know.  I'm right beside I75 as it passes Georgetown and then Lexington, and I wouldn't mind chipping in for the service.

I'm ordering some rapco 383 in spray cans so I can start on smaller accessories like the bows for the rear cover.  I'll be in the market for a like new or new two man soft top as well but I might as well wait until I've painted the whole truck to take the faded one off and replace it.

I checked out the 24v generic washer pump too, thanks for the advice.  If I can't troubleshoot this one I will go that route.

Pro tip.. know what way engages the E brake... in the military some new private kept the E brake on for like 2 miles and didnt know why the vehicle kept stopping.... flames started to drop down, brake fluid.

Ryan, so now that everything is painted when do you plan on installing the Eyecon lights you have?

My group might be able to assist whenever we have our next trip down planned. Of course, that's assuming SM ever gets any more inventory in...


I have heard of that happening as well with stuck e-brakes! A good reason to check them for proper function!


That's definitely on the short list just as soon as I get my cargo rack built since that's where all the light bars are going. I need to get with Dave's metal fab contact and have him work on some quotes for the cargo rack, overhead console, and possibly some aluminum rocker protection and GMV bed rails since I can't seem to find any.






On a side note, I was at a local community center's park and spotted a memorial I didn't know was there. I am just never over in this area of the county...












Anyone think they'd notice if I replaced it with a Deuce or a soft top HMMWV?


Okay, I'm probably going to hell for those evil thoughts...

Just found my new build goal!!!

Attached File

That's all of our goal. I would love to have the gun and the money to feed the gun. Heck I would just settle for the thermal sights.

But in reality, I do like the lights. I keep looking for the brackets to mount a 45" light bar to my rear hatch, but no one seems to have them only the light.

That's a whole lot of money in that pic!


Is that the Ibis Tek rear light? If so, you tried contacting them about one?

Barring that, that should be an insanely simple part for someone with a metal brake to fab up.

EUC approved yesterday (about a 10 week wait). Ordered a keyed ignition switch, Kascar grounding harness, battery adapter, and picked up a couple Optima Yellow Tops today. Now to get the recovery kit together and prepare for pickup!

Congrats and welcome to the club!

Let's see some pics!

I have tried contacting Ibis Tek numerous ways and no luck. I also went to the fab shops in my area, but due to all the jeep fabrication work and plant work, they want close to $200 for simple brackets which is as much as the light. They all claim the angle is what drives the price up which is pure bs, but they are not hurting for work at this time. So I keep waiting for a pair to pop up on ebay or one of the forums.

Maybe try getting in touch with user "ragman" on G503. He's the one that regularly buys batches of Ibis Tek bumpers direct from them so he has to have a reliable contact. He was talking about getting a buy together in May.

Looks like he had tan high backs around then too...

Who know, he may even have one kicking around his building he stores everything in. When I went up there to get my bumper from him, he had all sorts of odds and ends sitting around.

Here she is from the auction listing. More to follow once I get her home.

Nice!

Does it have the deep fording kit? Looks like you've got the snorkel bracket on the windshield...

Good eye. I bought it without realizing it, but a local HMMWV owner on SS I sent the auction link to thought so as well. A snorkel and tall tail pipe are on the wish list.

If it does, you should have a lever on the dash down by the e-brake handle.

Got any interior pics or a link to the listing?

The switch between the gas pedal and the e-brake?