Approach angle? What's that?



Actually though, when I was off roading at Haspin, I didn't even notice it was on there and we did traverse some moderate terrain with a couple decent inclines. Didn't dig in once.

I've already had to skip 2 obstacles because the brushguard got in the way.  Yours is a massive loss in approach angle, mine is pretty minor.  Almost like the addition of a winch.  Both are unacceptable!  

Arfcommer's rig.  He posted pics before.  Years ago.

It doesn't help my front end is getting a little saggy either.

One of these days, I need to figure out what my current approach angle is. I've been meaning to since adding the bumper.

Anybody hear what the EUC wait time is lately? I'm over 60 days now and it's killing me.

machine gun tours...I posted on the HML yrs ago another photo from the same shoot, Eric Ward "big dog" said he was friends with both of them, the weapon mount is made in Nashville.

Just an FYI to anyone thinking about doing a Lizard Skin application, PowerNation's Detroit Muscle did an install of it on a Chevelle on their episode last week and detailed the process.

http://www.powernationtv.com/episode/DM2017-12/highwayman-payoff-and-chevelle-power-plant

Really does a good job showing just how easy the application is.

So, I've been buying the stuff that was missing from my hmmwv since shortly after the auction. Some things still seem to be reasonably priced. Some are ridiculous. Some things seem to be reasonable for one side of the vehicle, but not for the other. As an example, the hand rail (not sure why it got that name, but it's the piece over the top of the doors that the top secures to) for a 4-man set-up is four times as much for the right side as it is for the left. Can I not just get two lefts and flip one left one around, even if I have to drill out the rivets for some of the turnbuckles and relocate them?  Maybe also relocate the middle cutout if the distance between a and b pillars isn't the same as b and c. Anyone know? $50 for the left, $200 for the right. Maybe a little sweat equity would be useful here. Another example is the AC condensers that fit in the wheel well. Right side is $155. Cheapest I've found left is $1200. That's almost 8x more. Can I do a little work to flip this one as well? Obviously this would be much more complex. Any thoughts?

ETA:  Here's what I've bought and what it's cost me, in case you're out there reading this and trying to decide whether to buy a less complete one for less money or bid higher for the all there one. If you're wondering, I think most of my stuff came from Austin (Beltfed). Granted, a lot of this stuff wasn't necessary for strictly driving the vehicle. I didn't have to get antennas and radio mounts and such, but I wanted it to be as I remembered them in the service.

I'll have to add the list as a separate post.

Since I'm still a new user, my post was too long. Here's the list:

2-man top                205
2-man Curtain         39.73
Side bars x 2           40
Mid supports x 2      100
Seat belts x 2           45.52
Pioneer Rack           58.23
Right rr seat base    33.95
Rear blanks             99.96
Bulkhead x 2            233
Ant mounts x 2        40
Troop Seats x 2       172.50
Rt Condenser          155
Rr Seat Cushion      40.65
Radio Mounts x 2    135
Brush Guard            205
Speaker & Mic         30.60
Ant T,B,MU x 2         290.99
AC Evaporator         90.79
VS-17 Panels x 2     20
Ant Tie-Dn Kit x 2     40.29
GPS mount x 2         43.60
Ant Gask/Hardwr       20
Total                           2139.81

I just came across this thread. I just got a job in a town in a rural area. With luck, I'll be living within walking distance. The place snows, and I don't want to drive my decrepit Crown Vic in the snow. Although I'll be able to afford it, I don't want to buy a new 4x4 pickup when I don't REALLY need reliable transportation. And I've wanted a HMMWV since I was 5. I'm single, my salary is about to increase by 500%, and I don't need it to drive to work. 

My main question is, has anyone had any success titling one for road use in North Carolina? I heard a bill was signed recently that should make the process easier. Also, for a novice with no practical knowledge and just manuals, without an engine hoist, how hard are they to work on? 

As I said before, when getting my fire extinguisher reinstalled with the new Quick Fist mounts, sometimes it's the small upgrades... I saw these in TSC when I was in there recently and found a cheaper alternative on Amazon. Some universal UTV hand holds for just $10 a pair:



They seem to fit on there pretty well. Could stand to have more Velcro to allow it to be secured more tightly but the buckles allow that just fine. I did cut off their PVC badges that were sewn on. They'll probably have to come off in the cold weather so the doors seal more tightly.

The weather here today was awesome for a drive so I took a cruise up to my buddy Dave's house to pick up my hood where I left it when we unloaded all of the parts I picked up. In case anyone was curious, here are the unit markings on it. Haven't had a chance to look them up yet.





Also, on the drive I had a chance to see how the new A2 fuel sender works. It's a bit interesting in that it doesn't have continuous sweep across the gauge like the old sender rather, it reports the level in 1/8th increments. As it gets close to different increments, it can flip between them with aggressive fuel slosh. It will generally read at the appropriate level otherwise though. Very nice improvement!

Going to try to get the ECV hood installed tomorrow and then start tearing parts off in prepping for paint




For some odd reason the price difference in similar parts is just something with these trucks. I've seen the left versus right side price differences on 3 separate things I can think of: front winch mounts, rear H1 trailer hitch brackets, and lower control arms. Parts identical except for side used have price differences, sometimes large, between sides.

Due to the shape of the soft top rail, I don't think you can just flip it. You might be able to but I'd hate to say yes only to have you buy one and find out you can't. Breton Industries sells NIB soft top kits which include the rails. Have you considered getting in touch with them directly to see if they'll sell just the rails to you?

Can't help you with the question about the condenser. I had the same thought though when I was thinking about A/C in my truck. If you try it, let us know how it works out.


No idea about NC. There are still a lot of gaps in the state registration instructions listed in my OP. We're always hoping more people can add information so I can make the listing more comprehensive.

If all else fails, you could register it in Vermont. They apparently do not require a title for anything older than 15 years and will allow out of state registration. You can potentially use that to get non-branded registration using nothing more than a hand written bill of sale and then try titling it in NC with clean Vermont registration (most states realize how Vermont works and won't expect a title) or, just leave it registered in Vermont. Now, I don't have any experience with any of this process. This is just what I've been told by a friend that has been in the classic car scene and has seen this used with older cars missing their titles.

ETA: I did see on SS that M1123s have reportedly come down a bit in price with some selling in the $10k-$12k range. I haven't verified this, just what I read. They come with non-branded titles and you get the benefit of a 4 speed and 12k rated running gear. M1123s weren't for sale when I got mine a year and a half ago but, at that price point I'd be looking very hard at them.

As for your personal situation, based off what you're saying, you should have no problem working on it. As long as you've got the TMs and some common sense repairing things, you should be just fine. You may run into a situation where you might need a specialty tool like I did with installing a diff output seal but, nothing you can't work around.

These trucks are otherwise pretty darn easy to work on. I've successfully done all of my repairs in my gravel driveway, sometimes in my soft side auto shelter, with nothing more than some floor jacks. The only "big" tool I'd suggest is a decent air compressor and an impact driver. Besides the specialty seal/bearing installers, you can find just about any other tool you'll need from jumbo wrenches to jumbo sockets at Harbor Freight and they'll get the job done.

Installed a new power cut out on the radio deck today.  I've been looking at the MX-7777 for this but recently found this unit.

Makes turning off the entire radio deck easier with the flip of one switch.  The main benefit for me is being able to easily disconnect the power from the deck so I can move it out of the way to access the dog house.  My set up doesn't tilt out enough.

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It also has a secondary power connection that I'm thinking of using for my 24v to 12v adapter and/or power for the General Dynamics docking station.

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As a former 63B (Light wheel vehicle mechanic),  they are pretty easy to work on.  If a bunch of 18 year old kids could keep them going with a Leatherman and 100 mile a hour tape, so can you.

FKAM thanks for posting. I had forgot I had one of those in my parts box. I got it hoping it was plug and play with the VIC3 power cable but the Accessory J2 is in the wrong position. When you try to plug anything into it the rear of the cable hits the black P1 cable coming out of the box.

Also, can you post of pic from the front of your radio tray as it looks like you have the VIC 3 lite setup.

Here is mine after pulling it out. It does connect to the SINCGARS power block and cuts the power which is nice. Once I get some time I really need to lay out the two audio boxes I got from Augi, this switch, and the SINCGARS power block plus routing the cabling to see how much space I have left. I suspect there will be very little but was hoping to install a small inverter.  

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Jake,

I haven't really looked closely at the Accessory J2 yet.  I did notice that it appears to be wired reverse polarity compared to the main branch.  I was planning on building a custom wire for it so I didn't plan to pay much attention to it until I decided what I was actually going to plug into it.  Thanx for pointing that out.

As requested here is my current setup from the front.
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And Yes, RYAN, that is a Harbor Freight rattle can/screwdriver holder with the $15 paint job that turns it into a HMMWV Cup Holder.

But I'm currently working on the replacement.  Currently in bench test mode, awaiting a few more parts.

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Having trouble with the AMPs, so if anyone is an expert I could use some help.  If someone volunteers I'll give the specifics.

V/R
Fred

I like you replacement SINCGARS. Where did you find the rt-1523e as I like that it is half size.

But back to the switch, it would be nice to have the laptop run to the accessory. Keep us updated if you find a way. As of now I may open the box up and see if that plug can be turned so it doesn't interfere with the main P1 line.

Snagged it off of epay and at a decent price.  Works good.  I was real surprised to see one show up there.

Let us know what you find inside.  I'm working on the rear bumper and tire carrier this week and then I'm going to mount the computer dock after that.  Got to get the spare out of the back area.  Getting too old to heft 180 lbs that high.

I went to all the trouble to Plastidip mine and i'm not even sure I'm going to end up using it now that I've started laying things out. I saw a member on SS that used some of the mic/headphone holders to make cup holders and I like how those look putting one near each front seat.

Great setup by the way!



I've been busy today taking advantage of the nice weather. Got my ECV hood setup installed. Both hoods now stripped. Will figure the wiring out after painting.

I think it gives the truck better "flow", not having that gap over the winch. Not as easy to get to the clutch any more. Maybe once I get the Warn military winches I want in, I can get the correct clutch levers installed so it won't be an issue.





By the way, had a chance to look up my hood markings and got approximate year of manufacture from the donor truck. Turn signal buckets were dated December 26, 2007. The markings are for the 83rd Civil Affairs Battalion of the 85th Civil Affairs Brigade out of Ft. Bragg so the truck was pretty local to Southern Metals.

Also got new decals and some new reflectors ordered.

Still a lot of tear down work to do for paint prep...

I think I am cursed or something. Fastenal called first thing this morning and said the engine came in Friday and was available for pickup but was sitting outside and to hurry as it was raining. So I finished work and left early. When I got there I saw why it was sitting outside. Walking through their loading area in the back was an oily mess. Then I saw the engine partially on its side. They had dropped it off loading the truck on Friday and then moved it outside into their fenced in area. Of course it rained all weekend and the engine sat outside. The guy admitted they dropped it but wouldn't go any further. The battery and tire were nowhere to be seen either and they did not know what I was talking about. I said look at the paperwork as it says engine and tire (left off the battery) but it at least got them looking for the tire. I noticed the battery some distance away. Most likely someone tried to steal it and toss it over the fence, but it was too heavy. Has some road rash that was not there when Ryan picked it out. Since I did not have any options with these guys I had them attempt to load it into the trailer. That was a hassle as the guy did not know how to drive which is probably why it fell off the truck. After walking the guy through the loading I was about at my wits end. They got the tire from somewhere and I put it in the bed of my truck. The guy said he knew I wasn't going to sign the paperwork and to expect a call from someone soon. Well I got the call and that wasn't much help as they don't know how it happened and are looking at options (partial refund on shipping). They saw and took pics of the oil pan and broken fan blade as did I. Right now I am pretty livid and disappointed. IF I get time this weekend and feel like messing with it, I will get an engine lift and lift it up and remove the oil pan to see the crank. As of now other than being dirty, sitting out in the rain for several days, a busted oil pan, and a broken fan I am tired and need to re-think how to proceed.

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This is the center channel under the air intake manifold. It was full of water. I believe that is the fuel sender as it was also half submerged.

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A few more pics. The inside of the air intake is nice and clean like you would expect from an engine with 5500 miles. Same for the valve covers.

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And finally it pushed into the garage while I sort things out.

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I would be more than livid.  I have developed zero tolerance for incompetence in my old age.
I've had real good luck with Fastenal and this will make me think twice about them in the future.

Hang in there.

I couldn't believe it when you text me, still can't believe it. Like you said, I'd just about guarantee the fork lift idiot tried to pick it up by the rear pallet instead of the pallet under the engine and that's why it fell off the truck.

No excuse for that type of stupidity... Anyone with two brain cells knows you lift a load by the heavier end closest in to the fork lift and, that an engine/trans is going to be heavier than a transfer case, tire, and battery. Only possible exception is if you've got extra long forks specifically for moving double pallets but even then, still stupid to put the end with the bulk of the weight at the end of the forks.

And the outcome would have still been the same even if it was crated. In fact, there's less of an excuse for it happening only being on pallets where the fork lift operator should have been able to see where the center of gravity was, versus where a crate may have hidden everything.

Trust me, it took a lot not to say more. They knew I was pissed especially after having to walk them through how to use the fork lift to load it on the trailer. I know by then I was condescending. I will also think twice about Fastenal and will never use the Galveston store. I have not had any issues with the previous 4 or 5 times I have used them, but it was a different store. This time LTL people made me use a different store for routing purposes. This store is the issue as I asked if there was any oil in the trailer that delivered it and they said no, so it only became an issue when the guy unloading stuff dropped it. Right now they are looking at who banded it as they did re-band it when Ryan dropped it off, but again its not that stores issue either as the blame should be with the guy in Galveston that unloaded it and then sat it outside in the rain and salt air.

Correct if it would have been crated it could have been a lot worse as they would have known where the weight was. The fault is 100% on the guy unloading it and moving it around. The paperwork states if not crated then no insurance claim. But that doesn't take into account when you drop it or set it outside in the rain. Just talking to a few people there are a lot of unknowns since it was dropped if anything cracked. The fuel pump sitting in water is the other unknown. Some said sell it and walk away from it. Others have said at least 4 hours of labor at $75 an hour just to do the pan and fan and another 4 hours for cleaning up the center section and checking for water intrusion. All have said to take the engine down some to get a better look at it as if its just the pan then everything should be ok other than the water part on the fuel pump. But again that's more time and labor.

Hey Ryan, where did ya get that thing?  Any chance it's this one?  A couple bucks more on e-bay but free shipping.....

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=j4fz3sn2n200zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FNEW-ISSPRO-Fuel-Sender-606060-004-6680-01-484-5367-24V-Fits-Hummer-H1-HMMWV-%2F232387796626

My truck does the ping-pong thing and it's driving me nuts.....

I just started going through the final bids on gov planet for the latest big round of auctions. It's looking like driveable two door soft tops without any noted mechanical problems are selling for under $5000. I have a few rookie questions. 1) When it says that there are no fuel/oil/coolant leaks, should I take that to mean that they hold liquid or should I suspect that they are empty? If the engine starts when jumped, but won't restart without being jumped, should I take that to mean it needs new batteries, or batteries plus alternator? Also, most of the tops/doors appear to be in rough shape. I can find brand new/NOS 4 man soft tops all over the place online, but can't seem to find 2 door soft tops in the same condition. Are there any sources for these other than similarly poor shape stuff on ebay?

Also, I've heard that the 6.5 liter engine is better than the 6.2 liter engine. Why is this? Is the 6.5 more powerful, more reliable or more fuel efficient? I can't seem to find good info on how much better it is or why. Vehicles with the 6.5 seem to carry a premium. 

2-door configs are usually a pretty good deal -- just be aware that if you decide to convert it to a 4-door, often times the cost of buying the 4-man top, "C" pillar, rear curtain, doors etc. can often exceed what you could have just bought a 4-man config for from the get-go.  I see folks selling conversion kits all over the place for about $2500, so that should give you a good margin to consider when going for the 2-door to 4-door bidding.  And be aware -- just because they don't have any "obvious" mechanical problems (which is a good thing to start with!) these trucks have been sitting around their respective AD/Guard/Reserve/Contractor yards for a long while waiting for auction, and almost all the rubber components will need attention either right away or pretty soon after you get it.  The good news is that all the TM's are out there to do it along with the parts list, so if you're not shy about grabbing a wrench and breaker bar (yes, you'll need it for all the rusted bolts on these things) you can do it pretty reasonably yourself, or find a good local shop that handles H1's/HMMWV's to help out.  Good luck on the bid!

Means that it isn't *currently* leaking on the grounds it's occupying.  Doesn't mean that it won't start dripping once you start/move it or get it warmed up.  The good news is that the Iron/GovPlanet folks are pretty straightforward when it comes to the condition (they have to be since they offer the IronClad Guarantee) so they most probably aren't empty.

From one of the regional managers in the MI area: if it says starts when jumped, it means the batteries are dead.   Most likely you'll need new batteries but *could* be a charging issue.  Watch the video section of the auction where they start it up and look at the generator/voltmeter.  If it shows that it's charging (in the green), then at least the generator is putting out 24V and the batteries are just most likely not holding the charge.  If the auction notes say "starts with ether" or something similar, then you better think twice about that truck since there's bound to be way more involved than just a new set of batteries or alternator.

Yep, there's all sorts of places that sell parts and kits like this.  If you go back through this thread, there's links to places like kascar, thosemilitaryguys.com. federal military parts, hummerpartsguy, and a ton of others just to name a few.  And if you go check out some of the threads on G503 and SS, you're bound to find someone there with them too.  Patience seems to be the key to getting things like this at a good price.

The 6.5L engine is the newer revision to the 6.2, and primarily resolves the dreaded 8th cylinder failure issue (you can search all about that on prior threads).  While it produces *marginally* more power than it's predecessor, the primary reason a 6.5L is preferred is due to the long-term reliability.  That being said, many folks are running their 6.2L engines with no issues, so it just depends on which one you have and how it's been taken care of/abused.  There are several evolutions of the 6.5L engine as well, but for auction's purposes that should steer you in the right direction when deciding between the two.  Expect to pay about a $1-2K premium for a truck with similar configs but a 6.5L engine, and in my mind it's worth it unless you find a truck that's just a steal and comes with a 6.2L.

Hope that helps -- good luck on the auction and take your time finding a truck that you're going to be happy with for a while

Craigslist yielded a 2008 M998 about an hour away.

I had no idea trucks as new as 2008 were being sold?  Its apparently a former WV coast guard truck and has like under 5K miles on it.  I don't think I saw any this nice when I was in the USAF.  For a truck with a 4 speed that new, 20K price tag almost seems worth it.  Almost, but can't quite justify it.  

I've seen much older trucks with the 3 speed trans and in nice condition selling for 12-15K.  It isn't thaaaat much more of a stretch.

I watched the auction today. Bad idea. I saw running victors going for just over 3 grand in some cases (and a ton between 4 and 5). I'm happy for those guys if they're consumers, not so much if they're flippers, but it just made me sick to think I could've waited until now and gotten all of the extras I've bought over the last two months and been in it for less than just the auction price of mine.

I paid about $200 for my 2-man top. It wasn't a great bargain, but it was the first thing I bought for mine and I was worried about not finding one since it was missing and is a critical piece. Since then, I've learned more about sources and have seen a good number of them closer to $100. Look back a few messages at  what I've bought and what it cost me. This is the very reason I posted it, so you can learn from my experience. You can get new soft doors for $200. Not sure about shipping. If you're careful and patient, you can get a rear curtain for a 2-man around $100. If the blanking panels are missing where the rear doors would be for a 4-man, they seem to go around $100 each but I lucked into a pair for that. Seats can be pricey, especially if you want the high backs. Seems like I remember the brand new 4-man kit is about $2300 from Breton, but you'll likely wait a month to get one. Kinda steep but it comes with all the hardware and such.

I finally got my EUC today. 69 days after the auction (1 day shy of 10 weeks). But dammit if I didn't call them and they told me I'd have to wait until at least Thursday to get it.

There was at least one 2008 in the auction today. It was a butchered slant back in California that I was drooling over except that it went for like 15k and was missing darn near everything.

As far as titling in NC goes, you shouldn't have a problem. I know almost all of our stolen cars end up there because your DMV only requires a bill of sale and the criminals just make a fake one.

@Ryan_Ruck

I'm back from page 25


How's the liner/lizard skin holding up?

I'm about to pull the trigger but need some last minute reassurance

I'm sorry about your luck. I've never used fastenal before now, but I have some stuff coming in from beltfed through them, so I'm a bit apprehensive after hearing your story. One thing I wanted to pass along, Wally World has those signs that say "not responsible for cart damage" but that's just to keep you from filing a claim against them. I know someone who found a cart against her car door and she filed a claim and the store paid it. Not sure if the same holds with fastenal, but it would certainly be worth trying.

Just keep watching as prices go up and down. Distance to you is also important as shipping adds up quickly. As with these there is a lot of hit and miss and their inspection report can vary greatly. Mine was listed as no leaks and as a 6.5. It actually had a leak, broken seat belt, and a 6.2 not a 6.5 but was hard to tell from the pictures. Also mine had bad paint flaking in the bed that did not show up in the pics. On the other hand my two man top looked nice and had the high back seat upgrade. Gov Planet did honor their Iron clad guarantee and gave me back over $1200. The top looked good but dry rotted very quickly in my garage over just a few months. That is why I spent the extra money on the hard top, buy once cry once as I will never have to replace it unlike a soft top which will eventually need to be replaced (faster if stored outside). If you have patience you can piece together a 4 man soft top for a lot less than the complete new ones. This time last year there were no tan soft tops, now there are several to chose from. Parts seem to come and go and green may be available now and no tan then it flip flops. Now for the engine, my 6.2 worked great until several months ago and then broke right around the same time my PCB box went out. I have the 6.5 replacement but as you see several post above it is not drop in ready anymore due to Fastenal (word of caution they are now hit or miss as they use to be my go to for large items).

If I were to do it all over again and I plan on getting another sometime down the road as I have accumulated a lot of spare parts, I would look for a 6.5 with 4 speed, high back seat upgrades and nice paint/body in green camo (tan is a pain to keep clean and match). Or a non runner with the same option and a drive train from Southern Metals but the price would have to be really low as the parts for the 4 speed can add up quickly if converting from a 3 speed. I would still do the lizard skin and Monstaliner and CARC Sherwin Williams paint.

@Mr_Smiley

Still holding up great!

I would highly suggest when top coating the Lizard Skin, go with double the thickness of recommended bedliner. Reason being that the recommended 2 coats is assuming application against a hard metal surface. The Lizard Skin is much softer. I've found that because the underlying surface is softer, dragging sharp edges across it will gouge through the Monstaliner and into the Lizard Skin. 2 coats of Monstaliner is probably fine in passenger areas like footwells but I'd recommend 4 or more for cargo areas.

I've already got some spots to repair and I may well actually go back and lay down more Monstaliner on my cargo floor and inner fenders when I do that.

That's the one! Just make sure it comes with gasket and screws.

Almost guaranteed to not be a 2008 M998. It likely went through a reset in 2008, that date was put on a new data plate, and that's what the buyer has used for registration.

If you get a chance to inspect it, you can possibly find dates on things like the headlight and turn signal buckets if they haven't been replaced.

You are the best!

How thick would you say the combo would end up being? I'm not sure if you guys have to deal with rivets as much as me But do you think the combo would deform under a pop rivet install?

I assume it wouldn't be as thick as this:



Been working on this for two days now(the brain child of the previous owner). Hoping to be done with it by tomorrow but my interior paint is now basically fucked.

Just some general advice on parts.  Do your research, be patient, think about it, and alcohol in moderation while shopping on epay.  Or, like me you may literally "pay for it" and then possibly have to hide it from your wife and hope she doesn't find out how much you paid for it and that it is the wrong part and you can't even use it!

Lots of answers already but I'll chime in with my $0.02

No leaks should mean no leaks. If you discover a leak, you need to file a claim. That happened with mine. Got it home then next day started and idled it to operating temp. Found a heater core leak. Got $400 back.

Needs jumped probably just means dead batteries. If it has the Hawkers, you can try to resurrect those from damn near stone dead. There is a process I thought I saw mentioned on SS.

Don't get new tops and doors from any place but Breton Industries! They manufacture them and sell direct to the public. Anywhere else and you're either buying old GMA (now out of business) surplus or getting marked up Bretton stuff.

6.5 is only worth the premium if it's a GEP (General Engine Products) engine. That means it is a block that's been manufactured with some design improvements. If it's a non-GEP 6.5, don't pay the premium. The power output between any 6.5 and a 6.2 is negligible. The best way to tell if it's a GEP is with a sticker on the driver's side valve cover. That said, GEP engines in trucks aren't nearly as uncommon as they once were. When I got my truck, they were very far and few between. Now they seem to be all over the place and you can get trucks with them.

Other things to look for...

If you go with an M998 or M1038, try to get an A1 truck. It will have the heavier duty 10k half shafts, parking brakes on the service brakes, high back seats, easier to service differential output seals, and other improvements.

A NP242 transfer case. Most easily identifiable by the slip yokes. Make sure the tail housing on it is 4 bolt, not 3. That is the later model 242. Try and see from the pics if it has a blue band on one or both of the cooling loop fittings. This means it is the newest of them and much more resistant to The Vampire issue.

200A dual voltage alternator. A truck with it in there will save you the time and effort of doing the upgrade on your own.

An S3 smart start box. This is a nice upgrade to have. If they take a pic of the start box, it will have a smaller plug with a cover near the label in addition to the larger one. These in trucks don't seem to be terribly common but, they aren't hard to get to upgrade your truck.

Hmm... I think I've identified my problem...

Not sure of the exact thickness...

I ended up with 3 coats (in most places) of Lizard Skin Sound Control, 2 coats of Lizard Skin Thermal Insulation, and 2 coats of Monstaliner.

It was thick enough that on the fender tops, I had to take a razor and feather the edges into the outer fender sides/quarter panels since it looked so thick. I may have some pictures pre-feathering in my Photobucket account but I'm not sure. I'll look.

It will definitely deform and compress under a fastener. Everything I've added back onto the truck after the Lizard Skin/Monstaliner was applied like footman loops, seat belt mounts, radio tray feet, etc. has all compressed down the underlying Lizard Skin/Monstaliner. I don't think I've got any pictures of that specifically but I can grab a couple tomorrow.

ETA: Did you see my link above to Detroit Muscle's segment on the Lizard Skin application?

ETA2: Oh yeah, we've got rivets galore. All the panels are riveted and bonded in fact. I'd make sure you do all your riveting prior to coating with Lizard Skin/Monstaliner. Doing it after will lead to nothing but trouble.

ETA3: Not seeing any pre-feathering pic. Just this closeup I took after. If you look close, you can see where I trimmed.

You are a wealth of knowledge

Answered everything I needed to know My Google fu was either really weak, or no one has done this and talked about their experience.

Now to figure out the color

Glad to help!

W00t!  Picked mine up today!!!!



Sunburned my elbow.

AWESOME! Nothing like that feeling of getting your new baby home!

Now the real fun begins...

They let me drive mine out of the yard and off of the post. Even checked my fluids, topped me off with antifreeze, and jumped the truck off to get me going. Dean was just a super swell guy. Right front tire was way low, like on the run flat. Went straight to the shoppette and filled it up. Hit about 75 on the interstate. Voltmeter was in the green all the way. Temp gauge registered 220 the whole way. Oil pressure registered 60 on the interstate and around 50 or so tooling along the back roads. Started with half a tank. Seems the fuel gauge acts like it is on a stair-step. Was half until it suddenly went to 1/4. Was on a 1/4 until it suddenly registered almost empty. I never noticed any sloshing effect though. Stopped for diesel cause I had to. Prayed it would recrank and it fired right up. Little over a hundred miles. I just knew she'd make it and she didn't let me down. Too bad I have to work tomorrow.

ETA:  Called about insurance on the way down. USAA initially told me I'd have to go through progressive. Thought I'd give State Farm a shot since they do things for us at work from time to time. They said no dice. Called progressive and they also said no dice. Called USAA back and asked why they sent me to progressive if they couldn't do it. USAA then cut me a policy. Weird, huh?

Since USAA is getting you squared away, good deal.

Was going to get in touch with you via PM about State Farm if they were going to hassle you. I currently have my policy though them as do several other owners on SS. It's actually up for renewal in 2 weeks and no indication of any issues from them.

When does govplanet send out the sf97? Kinda figured I'd get that with the truck.

It takes a little bit after you take delivery of the truck. Going from memory, I bought my truck at the end of January, EUC approve and truck picked up near the end of March, and don't think I had my paperwork until early July BUT mine was tied up in the whole Florida title fiasco. Since they've gotten that worked out and it sounds like you're getting just an SF-97, your time should be a lot faster.

Congrats on the new baby - that's awesome that you got to drive her right off the base.  So much for that 'off road use only' policy that the folks over at SS are so wrapped up about

SF-97's have been coming real quick after the vehicle is picked up.  Usually come via FedEx out of Ft. Worth and they sent my last couple within 2 weeks after pickup.  And good job on getting USAA to insure you - it seems with just about all these companies it's all who you talk to (and how persistent you are), not some official company edict.  USAA wouldn't do my HMMWV insurance but GEICO didn't bat an eye.

Have fun - keep us posted with lots of pics!