If it's under $5,000 they will accept a credit card but over that wire transfer.

I had never done one before but my bank had no problem doing it and didn't even charge me for it.

Would be interesting in tracking your progress.  I'd like to do something similar at some point.  Either I do it in the next few years before my kids start really costing me a lot of money, or I never do it at all.

Thanks for the info

I'll take a look and discuss this a little more with my kid. A 2 door would suit us fine if the price was right.

Just curious, anyone know what the 100% factory tread depth is on the 37x12.5x16.5 Goodyear Wrangler MTs (not MT/Rs!)? I did some looking and can't find it.

I'm going to get an inspection time scheduled for my truck soon and want to see how much life my tires have left. A couple look a little worn from the pictures but I want to know for sure how worn they are.

It's going to factor in on if I'll be able to trade my 12 bolt wheels and tires with some cash to a local surplus guy for some 24 bolt wheels and new tires or if I'll just get new TreadWright Guard Dogs (surplus guy doesn't want tires that are totally shot). I'm going to be good with either way, just being able to upgrade to the 24 bolts would be a nice plus with getting new tires.

This thread has my full attention, thanks for the write up and details.  I've got a handful of questions if anyone knows any of the more technical specs on these (Motor T, get in hurr).

I'm a Jeep guy, on my third Jeep, and have wanted to do a diesel conversion for a few years now but these HMMWV's being for sale (didn't know this until now) throws that idea out the window.  I mean seriously, these things can be had for less than the cost of a side by side?!?!  I've been wanting to build a dedicated recovery and trailside service rig for some time now but my truck is geared all wrong and my 4.0 just doesn't have the power I'd like to have for pulling guys with busted axles and what not.  

Is there enough space between the block and radiator to turbo the 6.2L motor?  It looks like it would be a tight squeeze it it can in fact be done.  Is there someone who makes winch ready bumpers for the HMMWV?  I'm sure I can cab up something custom but I'm curious to what all is available for these rigs.   Are all HMMWV's geared the same?  What's their gearing and crawl ratio?  What about towing and payload capacities?  If the rear bumper is useless, what about the front?  I'll do some of my own googling but if anyone knows the answer to any of these questions off hand I'd appreciate the insight.

The wife said she'd love to have a HMMWV to add to our off roading collection and gave me 'permission' to pick one up sometime this year. I'll have to look into getting it road worthy here in PA but it's not really a breaking point.  It would be cool, however, to trailer the Jeep behind the HMMWV and take 2 vehicles to the trails instead of needing 3.

I've got the heep recovery bumper for you

I'm not the most technically knowledgeable on these trucks but I can answer some of what you're looking for.

Winch bumpers... There are factory winch bumpers that work great! On the front you would need the winch plate as well as frame extensions (right and left)to mount it.





There is also a plate you can mount under the winch for protection. The cage you see on a couple of those is part of the driveline protection kit you can get for these trucks.

A word of caution, the winch plates I linked are set up with a 9"x4.5" mounting bolt pattern. As you probably know, most commercial winches are 10"x4.5".

Another thing to consider is that unless you have the dual voltage alternator that puts out 12v and 24v (actually 14v and 28v), you will either need to get a military 24v electric winch (which would of course fit the 9"x4.5" plate) or a hydraulic winch (may or may not fit depending on if you get a military model or commercial).

My truck has the dual voltage alternator so I'm going with a commercial electric winch. Going to have the mounting holes on mine elongated and the upper bolt reinforcements modified.



The rear bumper is far from useless! In fact, you can mount a rear winch on these trucks. The mounting systems were developed for the uparmored versions. There are both rear mounted hydraulic and electric options. I've got the rear electric mount on order for my truck so I don't have it in hand and can't tell you what the bolt pattern is on it. Here are a couple diagrams of the rear electric winch setup. There's one I've seen of the hydraulic but I don't have it because I wasn't going with hydraulic.





Mounting the just the rear bumper by itself will require the following:



- Airlift Bumper (that is the A2 bumper, the A0 bumper has wedge shaped side shackle stops instead of round)
- Left and Right Outer Brackets
- Left and Right Inner Brackets (these can be reversed)
- Left and Right Outer Braces
- Left and Right Inner Braces

There are also spacers plates but you can safely use grade 8 washers instead.


If you go with the rear winch mount, some parts are different and some aren't used.



(Ignore those 3 parts in the center, those are Rhino tire carrier mount pieces)

The inner braces are not used, the winch plate takes their place. The inner brackets are different to allow mounting of the plate to them. They are pictured above, below the winch plate.

Towing with the military pintle bumper mount isn't all that great and is limited to 4,200 lbs and only if it has the reinforcement MWO (modification work order) [MWO 9-2320-280-20-6] installed, basically a reinforcing plate.

To tow serious weight, install the civilian Hummer tow hitch:



The hitch is rated to 10,000 lbs with a weight distributing hitch. There is a smaller version but it is lighter duty.

To install that, you will need:

- The Hitch
- Outer Brackets (Left and Right)
- Braces (Left and Right)
- Brace Brackets (Left and Right)

Note:I don't know exactly how compatible this hitch is with the rear winch mount! You're mixing up civilian hardware and military hardware which may not be designed to work together and may need modified to do so!

I'm still waiting on my truck as well as much of this hardware so I can't say anything definitively. Once I get everything, I'll see just how it all fits and what needs modified (if anything).

Hope this helps save you some searching. I know it took me many hours of researching myself to find it all.

with the civi hitch the towing capacity is 7800#, not sure with a 6.2 and a 3 speed..

2nd to last photo, 3 of the parts are for a rhino drop down tire holder mounted to the rear bumper

Since the military Hummer has geared hubs giving it what...about a 5.10 gear ratio. Can these hubs be changed out to lower the gearing for highway use?

The A0 trucks have the following:

Transfer case low: 2.61:1, high: 1:1
Differentials: 2.56:1
Geared hubs: 1.92:1

The A1 trucks have:

Transfer case low: 2.72:1, high: 1:1
Differentials: 2.73:1
Geared hubs: 1.92:1

Not sure what the TH400s were geared at.

I'm not familiar with re-gearing the geared hubs and if you can it would probably need custom parts and be cost prohibitive. You can re-gear the diffs though and that would be a pretty standard thing to do. So far as I know the housings are basically AMC20 diffs and should accommodate those gear sets.

During my searching of the gear ratios I found a very old thread right here on ARFCOM with some good info! Look for posts by member NH2112.

This has been an outstanding thread with a lot of good info - R_R laid most everything that you need to know to get one so there are no surprises.

I ended up with 2





Also - I've got 2 sets of X-Doors for sale if anyone is interested in them for their trucks......

How much did you pay for the stantback, I've only seen 1 I think so far sold...or did you buy a 998 and buy a slantback kit?

I've had the slantback kit on hand for a while, this was an M1038 that I added the kit to.

Technically, anything that is considered an armament carrier goes to Captain Crunch due to the demil code on them, so you won't see M1025's, etc. going for sale in these auctions. My understanding is that the couple that did go to auction ended up getting pulled at a later time.

Thanks Lawman!

That slantback looks gorgeous!



In other news, my Ibis Tek 66" HID/IR light bar I bought from a member over on SS showed up today.

Hooked it up to some batteries and holy cow! Talk about bright!

Can't wait until my Eyecon MRAP 360° lighting kit shows up!

arfcom, yet again, costs me too much money.  I have won an auction and I will have a HMMWV (1989 M1038)!  






 

Just wait your going to need a second job!

I corrected your grammatical error above.   I got it for $9,500 (total invoiced cost of $11,130) and the bank wire paid for it, baby!





Anyone know when the risk of loss is passed on these after the auction?
 

Granted it's a single pic,  but the truck looks to be in amazing shape. Congrats on your purchase!

Congrats on the purchase EagleArms!




hesrightyouknow.jpg

Especially once you start seeing all the mods you can do and you've got all that free time waiting for the EUC to clear!

Before you know it you'll be up to your armpits in LED lighting, Ibis Tek products, and MRAP parts and your FedEx and UPS guys will hate you.

(Although yours won't hate you as much as mine who have had to drop off my airlift bumper, tons of various mounting brackets, and tow hitch parts. I happened to be home when the UPS guy was making a delivery today and as he's leaving he says, "See you tomorrow!" That's how you know you've gone too far! )

lol.  I already have a list of stuff I need like replacement seats for the front, rear seats, doors, battery, etc.  What do you think the chances the doors are in the cargo area?  Is there any way I can find out?  Might be an M60 back there.









 

I wouldn't count on the doors being there. If they were, they probably would have been mounted. Soft doors typically don't fare will at drmo, most are usually trash when they get turned in.

Like Lawman said, I wouldn't count on it. GovPlanet will do what they can within reason to bring as much money for a truck as they can. Mounting soft doors would probably fall within that, and if they were on the lazy side, they'd probably just take a picture of them in the bed.

I don't know, based on the pics this camera guy was pretty lazy in general.




What does "EUC Sent" mean?  That is what mine says, along with the date of 2/17/16 under "EUC Filed."





 

accidentally replied instead of editing my previous post.
 

I think that means it has been sent off to TSC which now has me concerned as mine still shows "EUC form printed"...

Found this a couple days ago if someone is interested
https://newyork.craigslist.org/stn/pts/5444674579.html

After this last night I sent a private message to Jwade, the GovPlanet manager that helps on SteelSoldiers, a message about my EUC's status. Looks like mine is just now getting processed today.

He said they've had people working from both newest and oldest ends to get through the paperwork which is why EagleArms' EUC has been processed before mine.

I appreciate his help in getting info out and I understand about being understaffed but, I can't say I'm all that happy about a 1 month wait for GovPlanet to essentially glance at my EUC and Hold Harmless to make sure they're signed and, forward the paperwork appropriately. Especially with over $11,000 tied up...

Hopefully, these things will get approved very quickly, but I am not counting on it.  





Question for all HMMWV owners:  I read something about needing to rebuild the geared hubs before driving these to prevent the wheel from falling off.  What is that about?
What does it cost to rebuild them and how much of a PITA is it?  Is there a specific TM with directions on how to complete this task?
 

The link below gives you an idea of what is involved on the geared hubs:

Link to geared hubs

Make a list of the things you want most and start looking/buying as prices on Ebay have been going up as more of these are sold.

Here is my recommendations:

1: Seats: You have the old style which will require you to drill out the old drivers side seat base and install the newer one for the high back seats.

2: LED lights

3: Doors. I went with X doors as I got a good deal on them locally

4: Rear bumper to add protection

When you get it do a complete "C" service, basically change every fluid, grease and inspect, if it's not leaking assume its good unless something doesn't look right..
I'd be more concerned about the 8 ball joints and tie rod ends..

How do you see the bidding history after the auction is complete?

GovPlanet says in their FAQ that a bid history link appears under the equipment details after the auction close but I checked my truck and yours and couldn't find it. Even checked under my account "Items Won" section.

Maybe they've gotten rid of it and haven't updated the FAQ.

Since one of the first things you should do when you get your new truck is replace the batteries, this is a good thread to read through in GD.

Replacing truck battery. Should I get an OPTIMA Red Top?

You might get lucky like I did and it come with almost new batteries. My batteries are labeled as being made in Sept of 2014. If you do get new red top optimas, you will need a battery tray adapter for the to fit properly and not slide around.

I got lucky as well in that both of mine were very much salvageable as well.

It's important that when you get yours that you do the "C" level service to the truck. There's no telling how long these sat before they were put up for auction, so it's best to just do it. With that said, on my softop, it appeared it went through a full service about 6 months before I got it judging by the date written on the oil filter. The fluids were clean and beautiful. I won't lie in that I just made sure the fluids were at the proper levels and I've been driving it ever since - do make sure those half-shaft bolts are torqued correctly. They do come loose and the damage can be catastrophic!

My other truck on the other hand was purchased as a non-runner and after replacing the missing parts, I see why it was used as a donor truck - the transmission wouldn't shift out of 1st.I finally broke down and dropped the pan on the transmission today. No metal but there was some dirt granules and what appeared to be water droplets. The fluid was burned black and the filter was plugged pretty bad too - no wonder it wouldn't shift.

I replaced the fluid/filter and added a cleanser to and drove it around for about an hour today, then I dropped the pan and replaced the fluid/filter again. So far, it seems to be running like it should so hopefully it stays that way. Of course, none of this explains why the filter clogged in the first place though, so I'll be keeping an eye on it.

That is an awesome picture, but it makes HMMWVs with cloth doors and tops look sloppy.  





Is there an acceptable way to mount a beltfed to an M998 or M1038?  If so, I will scrounge up some cash for one.  At this time I cannot spring for a hardtop and slantback setup though.
 

M6 Pedestal Mount

Anyone know how long it takes to get shipment bids?  I haven't heard anything since the auction last week.

I received bids after my euc was cleared.

I guess I am getting ahead of myself.



 

It will be a while until your euc clears. Until then plan your accessories accordingly.

More importantly, READ, READ and READ some more! Read the forums and look up frequent issues, download and read the TM's and read how to address those issues and then keep reading.

You've got 2-3 months of waiting before you can get your hands on it, so do the research now so that you can be ready when it's time to pick it up.

Just got off the phone with GovPlanet. I called them to ask about how I would be able to go about setting up an inspection of my truck while I'm waiting for my EUC to clear and was told I could only go inspect it after the EUC clears. That doesn't sound right to me. At that point, why would I need to go inspect it when I could just pick it up?  And I know you're allowed to go inspect an item before the sale.

Does this seem accurate to anyone else?

My truck is stored at a recycling/salvage yard in Hopkinsville, KY (I checked the address listed on my Hold Harmless) so it isn't like it's on base anywhere with restricted access.

Should I just try calling the salvage yard direct and seeing what they say?

Interesting.  Mine is listed as being on base.



 

Ryan - that's not accurate. Call the yard and speak to someone there, they're usually more than happy to accommodate with some notice.

Will do! Thanks!

I got mine Sunday.


All titled up in Ohio and ready to roll.

Now I Have to go over all 6 gear sets, and the T/Case.  

post pics



 

Going on crappy pictures alone, I'm preparing myself for having to get new tires. I'll know for sure if/when I can go look at the truck.

Depending on their shape and what he has available, I may be trading the tires/wheels on the truck in to a local surplus guy that might have 5 24 bolt wheels and new Goodyear MT or MTR tires.

If he doesn't have 5 matching tires, I'm going to just keep the 12 bolts I've got and get tires elsewhere. I've got a couple tire choices in mind and I'd like to hear if anyone has some thoughts on them (all are 37x12.50x16.5):

Treadwright Guard Dogs


Goodyear Wrangler MTs


Goodyear Wrangler MTRs


BFGoodrich Baja T/As



Even though the MTs are the cheapest, they're at the bottom of the pack since I'm pretty sure all of the others are better tires.

The Treadwrights are the most expensive at $200/each but have the benefit of being essentially new tires for a fraction of the cost. The reviews seem to be good as well.

I can also save a little money and get surplus, lightly used (80%-85% or 90%-95%) surplus MTRs or Baja T/As online. From what I've seen, the MTRs are pretty good tires. I'd really like to know more about the BFGs though. How do they stack up next to the MTRs? I know both are current use on mil trucks. Just wondering if anyone has direct experience with them to share or other tire recommendations I'm leaving out.

All of the ones above should be right at or under $1,200 (shipped) for 5 of them and that's about top end on what I'm looking to spend.

More importantly, details please on your titling experience here in Ohio!

Specifically, if you don't mind, what county you did it in. You can PM me the county if you don't want to post it openly. I'd just like to be able to tell my local BMV to call your county for guidance if they give me problems.

It is very much appreciated!