Well, I ordered one today. Do you have a link to the fuses you will be using?

I'm going to use a screw and nut to attach these to one end of each cable and then heat shrink over the connection.

3 pack 125A fuses

2 pack 80A fuses



By the way, it looks like I overestimated the size of the compartment next to the battery box and underestimated the size of the equalizers.

I can fit one in there but not both. So, it's either use just one or locate one in an alternate location and, I'd really prefer not to use just 1.

Unless I can think up a different location, I'm thinking one in the battery box compartment and one mounted in the rear passenger underseat compartment. I can then run the cable bundle in some wire loom (for a clean look) to the battery box and run it through the ambulance body power umbilical opening in the rear of the battery box. That will keep the wire runs nice and short and it will still be out of the way. I'll probably have to use a hole saw and put a hole in the underseat compartment to do that though.






Since you're only using one, you shouldn't have any problem. You could possibly fit a second in the actual battery compartment if you were using civi batteries since they take up so much less space.

Very interesting.....thanks!

I'm sadly admitting that I've made very little progress on mine due to weather and work but I do have a question.

Is it worth the hassle to delve into the auction again and try for a 6.5 and sell my current 6.2? I know it's a gamble but since I have almost everything ready to turn mine into a 4 man should I get a better motor? The EUC wait should be minimal this time.

I wouldn't go through the time of selling and potential loss of money. Run it how it is and you will most likely never have an issue. If you do have an issue like I did, just get a 6.5 engine from Southern Metals and replace it.

Personally, the differences between the 6.2 and the 6.5NA are negligible. The GEP 6.5s are simply nice because you know it's a newer engine in your truck and it happens to have some design modernizations. Where you start seeing differences in performance is when you get a 4 speed behind the 6.5NA or you've got a 6.5T.

If you're looking for more power, have you tried turning up your injector pump?

My 6.2 with the pump turned up does an adequate job. Where I'm seeing the choke point now is definitely the transmission.

Good points on both. Thanks.

Got my replacement laptop today after FedEx played games not delivering it for 2 days. Much happier with this one.

GPS works perfect on it. Picked up 9 sats right away. The new battery with this one has better remaining service life. Also, it looks like it's in a lot better overall shape.

Doug was nice enough to toss in a key since he'll be making some more of his own shortly and, offered to send a couple along for assisting in trying to get some replacements.

Overall, glad Doug took care of everything.

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Pics of CF19 and internet set up as promised.  Let me know if you need different pics

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continued.   This set up works 95 percent of the time and mapping system is updated on the regular.  Maps also work in offline mode 

If anyone does come up with extra keys for a reasonable price, I'm interested.

On a side note.  I haven't been able to figure out what you need to do to be able to post pics.
Is it just be a paying member? The membership descriptions are a little lacking for info on it and I can't find it described anywhere that I can understand.

Thanx

He said he'll be offering the keys up for sale soon. I think he said Tuesday they should be available but you might want to message him.

For photos, direct upload to the site is apparently a paying member feature. Even though I have it, I still use a Photobucket account for most of my pics.



Earlier I finally found a CB suitable for my truck at a reasonable price. I had seen these around but most of the people offering them straight up for sale want an arm and a leg for them. I got this at a decent price on an eBay auction.



Going to paint the knobs and chrome trim flat black so it fits in better. Both are standard Cobra CB parts so if I ever have to sell it, I'll just pull them of the standard 29 LTD I've got so it's back to original condition.

Now I need to build the mil antenna for it...

Interesting setup... Is the Sierra Wireless box the modem and router in one unit?

Also, I've got that same Gamber Johnson dock from my old work laptop van setup I installed on my own. Doesn't have that shock mount or anything fancy, Was just the dock on a pole mount. Actually pulled it out of a Cincinnnati Bell van at the same Pull and Save scrapyard I got the E-Track from, $20.

Believe so. But motorola box might do it too . We have a wireless card somewhere.  

Nice write up. Very well done.

Went to the yard today to try to see my truck. The first guy I spoke with was a complete asshole and never put his cellphone down while he spoke. He was also kicked back with his feet up. Typical stereotype of a federal govt employee. Unfortunately, the govplanet guy was relocated for a week. Seems the one at Stewart had a death in the family and the one I was looking for was temporarily relocated to do inspections on a hundred items they're trying to put on auction. That left no one around to let me see my truck. They wouldn't even point it out and let me see it from a distance. Four hours down the drain. They did confirm that they are currently allowing you to drive your prize away if you choose to do so. He also said he's heard that EUCs are getting cleared in 5-6 weeks.

These guys are not federal employees, they work or are subcontracted by Gov Planet (private company). Since they are the only contractor that sells vehicles for the military, they operate as if they have no real need for good customer service which is a shame. They use to respond to people at the beginning but I have heard complaints once they started the process to merge with Richie Brothers.  

Also with a HMMWV, I doubt that they will let you drive off with it unless it one of the titled ones and even then I wouldn't risk it. Call before you go.

The guy I was talking about was a DLA employee, not the govplanet contractor. He was a federal employee, but that would imply he worked for a check. He was just on the dole from the looks of it.

I did speak with the govplanet folks and they said "you can drive it, drag it, tow it; we don't care."

Any idea why the starting bid on this one: 1045A2 is so cheap?

Nick

That sucks. Hope it wasn't a long drive for you.

My truck was 4 hours away and thankfully City Salvage was great to deal with. Let me have run of the storage yard to look at all the trucks. How I ended up finding another member's truck when it wasn't listed as being there.


And no more Jwade either...


That's an interesting change.


Probably because they know it will go for a lot more regardless of what they start it at.

Just note the part on there now where it says "***The turret and its components are subject to further demilitarization per DoD regulations.***". The first batch didn't have this. Haven't seen one of these post demil yet so it will be interesting to see how bad of a hack job they end up being.




And just a heads up if anyone is looking for a mil style antenna for CB use... I've been looking all around for the couple of recommended antennas and the ones I was finding were either not available for sale, priced astronomically, or incomplete (missing the elements/masts). I did find the MX-6707 the most readily available though.

Details on converting it to CB use are here.

After a lot of searching I finally found all 3 components (base, lower element section, and upper element section) at Eastern Surplus but after talking to them on the phone this morning, the upper section is only available NOS and they think it's made of gold ($100+) and, you have to complete an EUC for the other 2 parts which were reasonably priced. .

Then I found Rapco's parts division actually has the whole package for sale for $125 + shipping, no EUC. Right here. Sure enough, bought it this morning and it did ship today as well. Probably should have ordered the tip and tie down kit they have while I was at it but didn't notice them since I found the antenna page via internet search.

Now I just need to find an antenna I could use with my Baofeng BF-F9V2+ for when I actually do get licensed to use it. Antenna needs be a mil design and be able to handle, or modified to handle, 2m and/or 70cm (radio does 136-174MHz and 400-520MHz). @WING25C or anyone else, any suggestions?

Let me put my thinking cap on, I want to say there is a version of the military antenna that can be used but I think only one band or the other (VHF vs UHF) but I have to try and dig it up


Ultimately you could get by with something like this, it is tactical looking and works well I ran one for ham radio because it was flexible in nature and take a beating plus worked(tuned) for UHF/VHF at the same time.

SBB1 Antenna

We definitely need a Like/Thanks button on here. That antenna may actually work perfectly with an idea I came up with...

I'm thinking of taking some PVC 4" pipe I've got, a round antenna mount blank cover, and an AS-3900 spring assembly and making a setup that looks like this Titan electronic warfare antenna or FRF-115 antenna





I can put that Comet dual band antenna inside the PVC pipe which shouldn't interfere with the function and give it a more appropriate look.

As long as the paint doesn't have any metal in it, it shouldn't cause any problems.  The metal in the paint will cause problems.

What have y'all done for the ignition switch or for a power disconnect to help safeguard your truck?  I see the switches on eBay and govplanet, but I'm not keen on drilling the opening wider (I want to drill as little as possible).  Is there a switch that won't require drilling?  If I'm looking for a switch, what diameter am I looking for?  How many connections on the back (does it have to be 3)?  I'm guessing it needs to be a 3-position (off, run, start).  Anything else to consider?

Honestly the most common way to do this is with one of the switches either from e-bay (or other vendors that are a little cheaper if you buy it direct from them) like this:

http://www.thosemilitaryguys.com/keyed-in-dash-ignition-switch-w-uni-bit-drill/

Yeah, all the switches requires a little more widening of the hole to accommodate the larger diameter of a keyed tumbler vs. a simple switch mechanism.  But really it's not that much of an increase and is the cleanest plug-and-play solution. If you really don't want to change the "stock" non-keyed switch and hole, you can always add the battery cut off switch, but then every time you park/run the truck you're going to have to lean over and add an extra step to start/stop it.

You need the three connector switch -- one lead is common positive voltage, the next is "run", and the third is "start".  Some of the switches even have the fourth position that's used for "accessory" just like in a car, but I've not seen anyone really bother to run a separate wire bus up for this in the HMMWV, but you certainly could.

I had a switch from, if I recall, Federal Military Parts on eBay but it was a piece of junk and they took it back. You could wiggle it and the truck would shut of or engage the starter. I think they have a better one out now but I haven't bothered with it.

In fact, I run my truck stock. I use the cable tie and just shift it into reverse if I go in anywhere. I figure a car thief is pretty unlikely to be carrying a set of bolt cutters and, half the time I forget to put it in neutral to start it. I did drill out my ignition switch opening but didn't have any problem refitting my factory switch with a couple washers after drilling it out. I did put a new placard in though...

As TexJeepTJ mentioned, Those Military Guys have a switch but, I'm not terribly inclined to give them my business either with how they did me over a push button light switch they sold me.

So I am preparing for the next step of getting my new drivetrain in at the end of the month/first of next month. It will be shipped Fastenal and I will have them forklift it onto a trailer since it will be on a double pallet and won't fit in the bed of my truck. So I have been looking at options on how to get it off the trailer and into the garage. Option A is to buy the HMMWV engine lifting bracket and using an engine hoist to lift it off or option B is using a pallet jack and possibly ramps depending on which trailer I rent.

I picked up an AS3449 for the 70cm band.  It is suppose to handle 400-470Mhz.  It is part of the VSQ-1 system.  I got mine from Sportsmans Guide as a complete setup with antenna cables and mounting hardware for around $150.  People are selling the same parts individually on ePay for 10 times that.  Don't know if they are still available.

Just wanted to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread. Over the past few weeks I've done a lot of research and read all 35 pages. After a couple near misses, I won this one today - . I look forward to picking her up in a few months and getting to work! Anyone have first hand experience titling/registering in Louisiana?

I will caveat that I don't know these electrical system well.

However a simple kill switch in line with the current ignition switch would work.  On a standard gas engine the best method is always putting a kill witch between the coil and distributor however I believe these don't have either of those.  You want to find a low power wire that is needed for starting the vehicle and just interrupt that circuit with a kill switch.

You could always put a switch on the injector pump wire however there is usually enough fuel to still start the vehicle and drive it a little before dying.  They wouldn't get far but could still take it.

Depends on what type of trailer you're using. We move large safes/vaults using pallet jacks and metal/wooden dowels as rollers. If it's a low deck trailer, you could possibly even forego the pallet jack all together using just dowels and two assistants to switch dowels. You'll need to put a couple 2x4s on the bottom of the pallets so you've got a flat surface to roll everything on.

There are some trailers designed to lower the entire deck to ground level hydraulically (our company has some) but they aren't very common.


No dice on SG. Think the dual band antenna is probably a better option. Thanks though!


Congrats and welcome to the club! It might not be a few months. I've seen word of EUCs getting processed more quickly than before.

As for registration in LA, I don't think I've seen anything. If you find some concrete info and get through the process successfully, let us know and I'll add it to the list in the OP.


Both of those options should work well.

The injector pump wire should be the one on top. You can always just unplug it too.




A couple things I got done.

Wired up my docking station. Also got my switch to add to the dock so I can leave it plugged in all the time. Tried to wired it in but there is something about it the dock doesn't like. I'm sure it's something to do with the LED/resistor. It causes some sort of protection to trip and the dock won't power up until the main board has been disconnected from the power supply board. The only waterproof switches I've found are illuminated so I bit the bullet and ordered a regular switch from Mouser.

Something else I thought you guys with these laptops would like to know about... I was thinking it would be awesome if I could run Waze on it for navigation since it has GPS and some of my other Android apps (like SiriusXM and Pandora) since it's got a touchscreen so I did some checking around. Sure enough there are Android emulators for PCs! I tried Bluestacks and it sucked, no GPS support. Then I found DuOS. I'm running the 30 day trial right now and so far, I really like it! Laptop GPS works with it. I have found a couple times DuOS won't use connect to the GPS receiver saying it's in use or not connected but, a reset of the program and laptop seems to fix it. Also, I found it best to crank the RAM utilization all the way up for smooth function. $15 for the Lollipop version is a pretty good deal for what it lets you do. I was able to essentially clone my Android tablet to the laptop, including even Nova Launcher.

Also, got my one Vanner Vann-Guard wired in. If my upcoming trip to Southern Metals is successful, I will hopefully be bringing home a couple 24v Warn winches so I won't need to wire in the second Vann-Guard afterall. So, that may be coming up for sale should someone be interested in it. I'll even toss in an 80A and 125A fuse too!

Come on Ryan you know the rules, pictures are required.

I know... I was running out the door when I posted that.

Right now the dock itself is in a couple pieces while I put in a patch wire until the new switch gets here.

Only have one pic handy on my phone of the Vann-Guard partly wired.

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Just a heads up in case anyone else is doing a VIC system install, these Racal Acoustics headsets are a great buy!

The seller took an offer of $17 each shipped. Mine showed up today and 3 of the 4 I ordered look like they weren't even used and the 4th looks like it was worn maybe once or twice.

Also, my MX-6707 antenna showed up from Rapco yesterday afternoon. Just as it said, it had all 3 parts - base, lower element, and upper element. All for $160 shipped. They did an excellent job packing the antenna elements/masts in a big cardboard tube. Took the base apart and found the tuning capacitor that needs adjusted. Will need to hook up my CB and SWR meter to see which direction it needs turned since the instructions didn't specify. Also the instructions specify using a plastic screwdriver to adjust it (I assume to prevent shorting anything out) but I didn't have any luck locating any such thing. Instead I found a set of ceramic screwdrivers on eBay (they're available all over for $10 or less depending on how fast you need them) which should accomplish the same thing.

Doug listed the keys for the docking ports today if anyone is interested.  $20 each.

 From Doug:  I am listing pairs of these keys on eBay now. You can find the listing here: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=j3qmvezf0p00zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F122540493818

Ryan, what are the lengths on the cables for the equalizer? I came up with 15", 18" and 24" but want to confirm.

I will measure them tomorrow for you. Beat after spending the day at Haspin Acres!

I don't have the equalizer bolted in yet so no big deal but, those measurements sound right. I ended up setting the equalizer in place and then just laying out each piece where it needed to go and cutting to length. I did have to open up the small cutout that is already there between the two compartments. Made that about 4" wide and an inch deep. I put some rubber edging on it to prevent any rub through.




Haspin Acres was a blast! My buddy Dave drove his HMMWV and Mark drove Dave's M1028 CUCV with newly installed Banks turbo kit. Mark's HMMWV was in pieces and he just couldn't get it back together in time. Ended up leaving the M1028 parked though due to a busted brake line.

Both our HMMWVs were pretty popular. We were the only ones there. Lots of compliments.

Didn't hit any super serious trails. I was following Dave since I didn't know my way around and he didn't want to christen his new paint with some pinstripes just yet. I did take a few alternate paths with some tougher lines a couple times. Used BTM successfully and you could really feel when it locks up. Was getting some rear wheel spin, did BTM, and boom - traction! Also, only had to put the t-case in HL once when I had one corner in the air and the other opposite corner with no traction. Then had to drop it into L when taking an uphill, dry creek bed path at a rock shelf so I could bounce up and over. By the way, never even aired down the tires from my 40/45 levels!

Drive out and back was about an hour and a half each way. Not a single issue from the truck.

Not too many action shots since everyone in our group was driving. Snagged a couple pics someone on SS managed to get of us driving though.

In no particular order...




















It was unbelievably dusty there since we haven't had much in the way of rain in the last week or so. I now know what my brother was talking about when he mentioned the "moon dust" they dealt with in Afghanistan. It gets everywhere. I'm still hacking it up and blowing it out of my nose.



I should mention too, even though it looks like it in the pics above, the wheels on Dave's truck are not tan. They are actually black but whatever they were painted with seemed to really attract the dust.

Was VERY glad to have my pre-cleaner on my intake! I'm going to check my filter tomorrow to see how it looks when I wash down the truck.

So I ran into a news article that seems to support the notion that SB 176 in KY means titling for HMMWVs.  Someone linked to it over at the G503 HMMWV forums.  I'm not ready to jump in head first or anything, I'd still like someone to tell me the first week of July that yes, in fact, they got an inspeaction and a road title for their truck.

http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=287337

Has anyone won an auction on a decent 2 man truck lately?  Privately owned auction trucks around here are selling for $12,000+ in that configuration and with the 6.5L installed.  Plus side being that one can test drive and really inspect these trucks before they buy, as well as take home that day.  But seems like I read that said 2 man rigs are going for $7500 from auction.

Mounted up the laptop again today using the mongoose mount. Sits lower and pulls in and out allowing either the driver or passenger to use it. Now to mount the Ibis Tek switch boxes onto a flat piece to aluminum or something and then mount that to a ram mount or similar.

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Won my 6.5 2-man back at the end of Apr. Cost 5900 at the auction, then about 7000 with taxes and fees, I've spent about 2k buying parts for it. Mine didn't have (but those parts are now sitting around waiting for the truck to be released) a top, back curtain, door blanks, troop seats, etc. Lesson learned, pay a little more for a complete truck. I'm at about 9k now and still need a few more things. I'm pretty sure I'll have at least 10k in it by the time it's actually on the road. And then will come modifications like radios, seats, etc.

Got those measurements for you.

I'm going to mount the equalizer on the compartment divider instead of the outside edge, at the far back.

24v lead - 22"
12v lead - 32"
Ground lead - 30"

I guess I went a little longer than I thought but, better than too short. I did route mine forward to the cutout then back to the posts. I'll get a pic tomorrow when I'm putting everything back in after washing the truck down today.

I suppose we're going to see how water resistant some of the additions like the dock, MRAP light control, and VIC boxes are since I hosed everything down. I already know the Ibis Tek lightbar box doesn't like water all that much and will start turning circuits on if the switches get wet. I need to see about replacing those switches with waterproof ones.

Found the perfect replacement sand/dust pre-filter for my clouded-up one on the HMMWV on E-bay last week:



https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=j3tljanbzj00zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FDONALDSON-4-5-AIR-PRE-CLEANER-H000823-FITS-FORD-JOHN-DEERE-CASE-CAT-MASSEY-%2F142166911601

$18.50 plus $16 to ship and you get the *exact* same pre-filter that the Army was putting on these things in the field for a fraction of the price they were paying.  Same manufacturer even (Donaldson).  I think you can get just the clear plastic bowls for a bit less too, but at that price it was just as easy to swap the whole thing out for a new one.

Really cleans up the look of the vehicle:

Nice find! I've only ever seen them clouded up.

Your pics reminded me I meant to ask, you mind taking a couple pics of your camo rack? Mainly the area on the roof.

My buddy Dave had someone flag him down when he was out driving his truck and offer him a NIB one for $40 () so, of course, he bought it but thought it might be for a 2 man. I told him it should work with a 4 door since I'd seen yours but wasn't sure how it mounted up aside from the windshield attachment points.

Will do when the sun comes back up -- looks like it just mounts between the "A" and "B" pillars through the cloth roof.

Looks like you had a great time at Haspin Acres with the SS group -- was the topic of registering civilian HMMWV's banned there in person too?  

Truth be told, our group pretty much kept to ourselves. We said hi to a few folks Dave knew and met up with another HMMWV owner whose truck wasn't ready for the event. All of the vehicle shots were happenstance meetups on the trails. The event was pretty non-centralized. No tents, no swap meet, nothing really official at all. Dave was telling me in the past it's been much more organized and better attended.

I plan on mounting mine on the inside edge at this time. Post pics when you get a chance so I can see the wire routing you are taking.

As requested.  Just ignore the rust -- one of my projects is to pull it off, clean it up and get it painted, and re-attach this summer.
Pretty simple mount it seems, let me know if you need it from another angle:

Thanks!

So it just bolts through the soft top? Hmm... Seems like it would be better to have rubber feet so it sits on top of the top instead going through the material. Or, have a hoop that goes over the top and attaches to the sides of the B-pillar you could attach it to..

It's funny, someone on the HML (humvee.net) was talking about building a roof rack a couple of months ago and was asking for ideas on what to use for the floor of it.  I suggested expanded metal and was told it wasn't a good idea.

What else would you use?

Anything solid like diamond plate is going to potentially trap water on top and weigh more than it needs to.

I guess you could use metal "planks"...