Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Posted: 11/17/2015 6:16:50 PM EDT
It has a constant output of lukewarm air.  Gets too hot on a warm day.  You freeze on a cold day.

A few years ago I had some change fall  down in the vents.  T he problem started some time after.

The blower motor went out,  so I replaced it and the fuse resistor.  It blows like a $2.00  hooker,  but only the lukewarm air.

I can see the floor/face/windshield actuator move.

Both heater hoses get hot.

It is my back up mail vehicle.  Last winter I had to use it on a -25 degree day.

Any help will  be appreciated.
Link Posted: 11/17/2015 6:21:49 PM EDT
[#1]
My guess would be a stuck temperature actuator. Pretty common failure.
Link Posted: 11/17/2015 6:26:28 PM EDT
[#2]
I cant help you out other than to plug in a 12v heater and place it on the floor.
Link Posted: 11/17/2015 6:36:13 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
My guess would be a stuck temperature actuator. Pretty common failure.
View Quote



Details please.

Mine does not have dual climate control,  nor automatic control.
Link Posted: 11/17/2015 6:50:35 PM EDT
[#4]
The actuator is located on top of the HVAC case on the right hand side. You may be able to get to it by removing the glove box,but if you can't you will have to pull the dash back.
Either way not too bad of a job if you are pretty handy.
Link Posted: 11/17/2015 6:55:50 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
The actuator is located on top of the HVAC case on the right hand side. You may be able to get to it by removing the glove box,but if you can't you will have to pull the dash back.
Either way not too bad of a job if you are pretty handy.
View Quote



I'm rather handy.  Glove box is already out.  Videos for the blower fuse resistor showed it behind the glove box.  Nope.  Mine is under the hood by the blower motor.  I'll  look on the right side,  but so far everything I see online is different on my Blazer.
Videos showed the need to cut the housing(s)  from the blower motor & fuse resistor..  Mine had no covers/ nor any evidence of having a  cover.
Link Posted: 11/17/2015 7:04:51 PM EDT
[#6]
Not the best video but it shows where it is clicky
Link Posted: 11/17/2015 9:34:49 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Not the best video but it shows where it is clicky
View Quote


Looks like I need to remove the dash.  Yay.
Link Posted: 11/18/2015 2:31:56 AM EDT
[#8]
Could also be the control valve under the hood (between the passenger side front wheel well and fire wall).

Had that fail on mine, dumped fluid.
Link Posted: 11/18/2015 11:42:31 PM EDT
[#9]
There is another issue that could be causing the "no heat"





I had the same issue with my 2001 Blazer.  It had the dexcool antifreeze in it that is what is causing this common problem with the S10 family.







It is possible that the heater core is plugged up.


I cleaned out mine this way.


It is a bit messy...


When the engine is cool remove both heater hoses from the engine block/radiator end not the heater core end.


Next take one hose and position it downward into a bucket or pitcher.







Hold the other hose up towards the hood and let the antifreeze in the core drain out. Once it drains pour a pitcher of water thru the core to flush it out some.







Now you hold both hoses upright and pour vinegar into one hose until you see it in the other hose filling the core.







Let the vinegar sit for a few minutes and dump it out into your drain bucket you can do the vinegar flush a couple times if you feel it necessary.







Now what I did was I got several pitchers of HOT water and flushed the core out a couple of times


Reattach the hoses to the engine block radiator and refill the radiator with antifreeze. Run the engine to operating temp and top off the antifreeze(overflow bottle) if needed.







Check the system for leaks and your done.







Worked like a charm and I have not had any other issues with the heat since.












And IMO if it were me and the vehicle still had dexcool I would change it to regular antifreeze.

















 
Link Posted: 11/19/2015 12:11:47 AM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
There is another issue that could be causing the "no heat"

I had the same issue with my 2001 Blazer.  It had the dexcool antifreeze in it that is what is causing this common problem with the S10 family.


It is possible that the heater core is plugged up.
I cleaned out mine this way.
It is a bit messy...
When the engine is cool remove both heater hoses from the engine block/radiator end not the heater core end.
Next take one hose and position it downward into a bucket or pitcher.


Hold the other hose up towards the hood and let the antifreeze in the core drain out. Once it drains pour a pitcher of water thru the core to flush it out some.


Now you hold both hoses upright and pour vinegar into one hose until you see it in the other hose filling the core.


Let the vinegar sit for a few minutes and dump it out into your drain bucket you can do the vinegar flush a couple times if you feel it necessary.


Now what I did was I got several pitchers of HOT water and flushed the core out a couple of times
Reattach the hoses to the engine block radiator and refill the radiator with antifreeze. Run the engine to operating temp and top off the antifreeze(overflow bottle) if needed.


Check the system for leaks and your done.


Worked like a charm and I have not had any other issues with the heat since.




And IMO if it were me and the vehicle still had dexcool I would change it to regular antifreeze.






 
View Quote

i'm with this guy, it's easier than pulling the dash and is cheap so its worth a shot.
if nothing else, it will clean the internal portion of the heater core.
Link Posted: 11/19/2015 12:40:38 AM EDT
[#11]
Here OP: http://youtu.be/dcL_0TWeZJY
Link Posted: 11/19/2015 6:12:25 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
There is another issue that could be causing the "no heat"

I had the same issue with my 2001 Blazer.  It had the dexcool antifreeze in it that is what is causing this common problem with the S10 family.


It is possible that the heater core is plugged up.
I cleaned out mine this way.
It is a bit messy...
When the engine is cool remove both heater hoses from the engine block/radiator end not the heater core end.
Next take one hose and position it downward into a bucket or pitcher.


Hold the other hose up towards the hood and let the antifreeze in the core drain out. Once it drains pour a pitcher of water thru the core to flush it out some.


Now you hold both hoses upright and pour vinegar into one hose until you see it in the other hose filling the core.


Let the vinegar sit for a few minutes and dump it out into your drain bucket you can do the vinegar flush a couple times if you feel it necessary.


Now what I did was I got several pitchers of HOT water and flushed the core out a couple of times
Reattach the hoses to the engine block radiator and refill the radiator with antifreeze. Run the engine to operating temp and top off the antifreeze(overflow bottle) if needed.


Check the system for leaks and your done.


Worked like a charm and I have not had any other issues with the heat since.




And IMO if it were me and the vehicle still had dexcool I would change it to regular antifreeze.






 
View Quote


Dexcool was replaced years ago.  I'm going to put a piece of clear hose in the core line.  If it flows freely then I move to plan C.
Link Posted: 11/20/2015 9:55:55 PM EDT
[#13]
So I put in a 12" piece of clear hose in the line that goes in by the thermostat.  The flow is very weak, as in not enough to keep the clear line full.

I guess the next step is to flush the core.

I do have more heat than before, but as much as it should.
Link Posted: 11/28/2015 3:36:27 PM EDT
[#14]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


So I put in a 12" piece of clear hose in the line that goes in by the thermostat.  The flow is very weak, as in not enough to keep the clear line full.



I guess the next step is to flush the core.



I do have more heat than before, but as much as it should.
View Quote




 



any updates?
Link Posted: 11/28/2015 4:34:00 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

 

any updates?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
So I put in a 12" piece of clear hose in the line that goes in by the thermostat.  The flow is very weak, as in not enough to keep the clear line full.

I guess the next step is to flush the core.

I do have more heat than before, but as much as it should.

 

any updates?


Flushed the core.  Some brown gunky water came out.  It has more heat than before.  Plenty of heat on in windshield defrost mode.
Not as much from the front vents.  But waaaay better than before.
Dexcool was replaced years ago.
Link Posted: 11/29/2015 2:24:04 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Flushed the core.  Some brown gunky water came out.  It has more heat than before.  Plenty of heat on in windshield defrost mode.
Not as much from the front vents.  But waaaay better than before.
Dexcool was replaced years ago.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
So I put in a 12" piece of clear hose in the line that goes in by the thermostat.  The flow is very weak, as in not enough to keep the clear line full.

I guess the next step is to flush the core.

I do have more heat than before, but as much as it should.

 

any updates?


Flushed the core.  Some brown gunky water came out.  It has more heat than before.  Plenty of heat on in windshield defrost mode.
Not as much from the front vents.  But waaaay better than before.
Dexcool was replaced years ago.


Yeah.   My heater core on my 01 Silverado was plugged with the infamous Dexcool slime.   I filled the inlet with some of that radiator cleaner,  let sit over night and then flushed with a very high pressure hose.   Orange chunks came out the outlet.  

Was the Dexcool replaced with Dexcool?   Its not compatible with alot of antifreezes and will slime up,  if not flushed completley from the cooling system.
Link Posted: 11/29/2015 2:42:54 PM EDT
[#17]


Could be the blend door actuator gear broke.









Your heater core could also be block so a reverse flow flush might be in order


Link Posted: 11/29/2015 3:05:25 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Could be the blend door actuator gear broke.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/wrongpart.jpghttp://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/relay2.jpg


Your heater core could also be block so a reverse flow flush might be in order
View Quote


You feel a difference when you move the temp setting.  I'm reasonably certain the door actuator is working.
Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top