New problems with this truck one problem that will not go away is me needing two new batteries about every year or so good thing I have Fords two year replacement on them! But the new problem is the slow acceleration it has when it first starts up also when it does first start up and I give it gas like pulling out it makes a weird sound when I let off the the acceleration! It echos in the cab of the truck as weird as this sounds it reminds me of the sound when someone jumps off a diving board well more of the cartoon sound!

Not wanting to take it in and be raped again like I was the last time so I'm looking to fix it at home if I can I was told it was my catalytic converter and I should just by a delete kit for it but I'm not sure since I had the same auto guy come and try buying a gun from me when he was drunk! Any advice on this would help!

Also that time of year best oil to use for winter negatives are common in my area I will have it hooked up to a heater but wanted to ask as I always change it then thing about what would be better for winter after the fact. Thanks again!

What mods?


If you have a pipe, the sound you hear may just be the turbo veins...

Any lights some bro has wired up?

None its all stock right now

Does it make the wierd sound if it's in neutral? Does it sound likes its coming from behind or in front of you? Try to have somebody make the sound while you stand outside and listen.

Only does it when your driving and you take your foot off the gas. Sound come from the front of the truck almost sound like by the gas and brake.

I'm not sure if that truck has a EBPV I know the 7.3's do and will cause similar issues.

When I was stationed in minot I ran 5w30 during the winter in my 06 f250

Sounds like what your hearing is "Turbo Chuff".  Which is caused by the turbo putting out quite a bit of boost to meet power demands, and then getting out of it really quick.  The turbo has no where to put the boost as you slowed the engine down, so it "chuffs" out back through the intake.

I had my 6.0 up there for a couple winters while I worked in Williston, and I run Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 Full Synthetic.  A lot of guys run the Chevron Delvac or Delo oil and have good results.  I personally use Rotella because I like it, and after all, quality oil is pretty much the same these days.

Give me a few and I'll find the chuffing videos on youtube for you.

EDIT:  After re-reading your post, it almost sounds like maybe the vanes on the VGT are sticking.  That would be a good explanation for your poor acceleration off of the line.  

For your battery woes, I would take a multimeter and check your DC and AC output on your alternator first to make sure its putting out correctly.  After initially starting the truck, you'll have to let it run for a couple minutes as the BCM doesn't turn the regulator on until after the glow plugs have turned off, and on this model engine, the glow plugs can run for around a minute after being started with out the glow plug light actually being on.  Granted, its pretty warm in ND right now, but something to watch for.

As for checking AC voltage, I only do it to check the health of the diodes inside the alternator to ensure it's in good condition.  Typically, if your AC voltage is over .25 vAC, you should start looking to replace the alternator.

As for it being the catalytic converter, I highly doubt it.  I've seen a couple get clogged up, or break free inside and cause issues, but it would be a full time power loss issue, not a part time.  You can straight pipe it though, they sound pretty cool afterwards

Now with all that babel out of the way, you probably need an alternator.  The stock Ford one is not really that good of a product.  There's a really good aftermarket one that is out there made by DC Power Engineering.  https://www.dcpowerinc.com/

I have a 190 AMP stock replacement from them, and I must say it is a quality unit.  Not especially cheap, but it's good stuff.

It starts at 15 seconds in this video.

To further explain the chuffing, which I forgot to mention is also called barking, the turbo on the 6.0 is a VGT design and does not have a blow off valve to release that "pent up" boost that was made when you accelerated hard.  Thus the chuffing/barking.

How dobi fix it? This happens in normal driving! I'm not trying do much but drive!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CniIQoR5bNQ is how you take it apart to clean it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MEn96Teiqw to take off the turbo.

there are better youtube videos of this out there but you get the idea.

Yeah, that's where I would start.  Cleaning the turbo is can be completely free if all of your gaskets and seals are in good condition.  Otherwise you'll need a turbo reinstall kit.  The part numbers are 3C3Z 9T514 AG / 1840053C96.  With the first number being the Ford part number, and the second being Internationals part number.

Turbo hardware kit.

Only $12 on Amazon. Probably like $15 at your local dealer.

There is only a couple things to watch for when taking the turbo apart, like not hammering on the mating surfaces of the two housings and such, but I'm sure the videos cover proper disassembly, cleaning and reassembly.

Turbo surge is hell on the thrust bearing/thrust load mechanism and can destroy a turbo in short order.  As stated it occurs when the throttle is suddenly chopped during heavy load conditions - think towing up a hill and chopping the throttle at the crest or a gen-set running under max load and then having the load instaneously removed during a load dump event.

The OPs description sounds like light load operation to me.  OP - have you checked for boost leaks at the duct boots?  Do you have a boost gauge?  Are you getting smoke out of the tailpipe?

No boost gauge and yes I get smoke.

What color smoke?

White smoke found its going to cost me $520 to $625 to have a dealership do it. They said it was for the 4 hours of labor that's over $100 hr!!!

White smoke means coolant blow-by.  

Uh-oh.

What's the dealer shop going to do for $600?  Take it to an independent shop - labor should be less but it's still expensive to have someone else work on your equipment.

Should not be I just payed $3k less then a year ago to get that replaced! I'll be pissed if its that

Smoke color on a diesel is very subjective.

White is either coolant, or raw fuel.

Blue is either oil, or partially burnt fuel.

Black is incompletely combusted fuel.

500 to 600 sounds awefully low for it to be something that you can't fix.  What is the dealership going to do exactly?

Clean the turbo that's all.

Shit. That's an afternoon and some beer right there.

You can clean a turbo, if you don't need to replace the unison ring after you get it apart, for roughly $15.  You should replace the o-rings for the drain and gasket on the feed line, but you can get away with not doing it.  

There are plenty of write ups online to do it, but basically you take the Intake off, hot side CAC tube, disconnect both exhausts, remove two bolts on the top for the oil feed line, disconnect the VGT harness, take 3 bolts out of the turbo (2 on the front, 1 in the back on the drivers side pointing downwards), take a pry bar and pry up on the front portion of the turbo to disengage the drain.  Fenangle turbo out of truck without hurting your knuckles on the alternator.

Then you split the rear housing, remove vanes and unison ring, clean with scotch brite pad or buffer wheel, reassemble with quite a bit of antisieze and reinstall reverse of removal.  Special attention will need to be paid taking the turbo apart, as you don't want to hurt the housing when you pound the sections apart, and putting the vanes back in.

Sorry it's taken me so long to reply, I'm been in Saudi Arabia and AR15.com is block, and JRS doesn't have the same thread notification features.

Got the turbo cleaned and it did not help. I have noticed that once the truck warms up it does not make the noise also it has no problems with accelerating. When you drive it cold its like it will just not change gears. I'm going to try and replace the transmission fluid and the filters to see if that help out next.

That sounds like standard injector stiction.

The easiest way to find out if it is, is to get a Ford diagnostic computer hooked up and have the technician run a cylinder balance test when the engine is cold.  You can do it too with the AutoEnginuity computer program and the Ford expanded diagnostics for I think around $300.

There's also the cheap way which would be to get some RevX oil additive and put it in there and run it for about 30 miles.  It softens the oil varnish on the spool valves inside the oil side of the fuel injector.  The problem with RevX is that it does not actually fix the issue, it only masks it, and when you stop using the additive, the problems start to come back.

There is also another oil additive that will clean the spools over 1,000 mile time period.  Hot Shots Secret.  It also comes with a money back guarantee.