Ok, so, I can tune the ECU. I can modify fuel and spark timing. I can even put in larger injectors and compensate for them in the tune.

How far do I go with this? I'm going to tweak it to get the bigger cam (Comp 20-628-9) running a bit better, but where do I go from there? It already makes about 300 with the cam without tuning, how much more can I expect?

Or, do I just scoop up a wrecked late 90s pickup with a hemi in it and go from there?

it is your budget that will limit/decide.
A late model hemi with all the mods needed to make it run out of that truck plus the engine are probably going to cost in the 5k to 7k range.
Hotwire makes the harness. But there are mods to make to get it to work in an older vehicle. So all in closer to 8 to 10 depending on the efi setup you pick, running a new pump, lines etc..
That is if you are keeping the efi.
If you decide to go carb, it could save you a couple grand, but still talking well into 4k or so.

A newer 5.9 mag will still be better than what you have, but again to keep the efi, you are talking into 3k. again depending on stock vs aftermarket programable efi you could bump that or drop 1k or so.
Going carb would bring that cost down to the motor and intake, somewhere around 1k depending on the deal you get for the motor.

Interesting about the ECU. FWIW I've got a Turbo 5.2 Magnum Dakota that runs on MS3X, lemme know if you have any questions.

Today, I got the pin11 added to the connector, so I can bootstrap the SMEC (ECU) and pull the program from it.

Got the programming dumped, and gave it to someone who has some recent IDA Pro disassembly experience with the Motorola 6811.

I finally got around to trying to adjust the rear hatch, which didn't shut all the way, thus letting rain in. I thought it might be the hinges, so I tried gently adjusting them with a piece of scrap wood and a dead blow, after loosening the bolts. It helped the left side, but only because the left nut on the stud was a little more than finger-tight. I figured, alright, I'll open the rear hatch inspection port, lubricate stuff, and generally just check for wear.

Turns out, there's a reason it never sealed properly:
Attached File


The previous owner had "fixed" it, at some point by taking a couple screws out of the trim pieces around the back hatch area, and putting them into the mechanism to "hold" it. That picture is exactly what I saw when I opened it. I figure there's probably a loose screw in the hatch, but I'll get a magnet and do that some other time if it continues to bother me. Two countersunk screws, one self-tapping screw, and the back hatch has to be pulled high to turn the lights on, so that explains why sometimes it didn't.Good to know that there's a 12V+BAT source back there though.

So, I fished through the toolbox drawer of bolts, screws, studs, washers, and nuts, and found some that worked.
Attached File


Now it doesn't move when you push on it, and it always closes. Looks like it'll always open when I push on the button now too.


It's got a crankcase pressure issue, the left head is the only one with a PCV, the right only has the "filler cap breather" on it, so I should really get around to doing that, but I'm not looking forward to dealing with that mess. It needed a quart of oil, so I dumped in whatever I had lying around.


In the spring I'm picking up another 318 almost identical to mine, but with a carb, intake manifold, and a mild-ish cam for stupidcheap. A local guy is swapping his snocommander (short bed 3/4 ton w250) to a 383. I'll probably tear into it replace anything that needs to be replaced, and keep it as a spare for when this engine finally gives up the ghost.