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Posted: 6/10/2015 1:13:09 AM EDT
[#1]
Have you driven one? They kinda suck. I wouldn't spend more than $1K for a running GT and that would only be to flip it, which would still be quite questionable.
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Posted: 6/10/2015 1:29:50 AM EDT
[#2]
Hard top.
Bonus points for an LX with a trunk. Done right those LX are remarkably clean and very down to business. Heads/cam/intake and you have 280-315 rwhp. As for 5000 bucks... it likely would be pretty damn rough. Good ones are climbing north of 7k and into the 10k territory. For a bargin 5.0, SN95 94-95 v8s are a cheaper alternative. Bought my 95 Cobra with 97k miles for right about 5500. That look isnt for everybody though. |
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Posted: 6/10/2015 6:44:34 AM EDT
[#3]
4cyl fox with a good tight chassis and an LS swap = far more win than a janky HCI 5.slow
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Posted: 6/10/2015 9:17:15 AM EDT
[#4]
I've been shopping them for my son. They are on the upswing on collectability and going up in price steadily for the past two years or more. You can get a POS for under $2K and spend $8K to make it nice. A really nice one is fetching $5K and up. Unfortunately for me, I'm looking to spend $4K on something and having a hard time finding a middle of the road compromise. I'm finding either trashed or wrecked or beat to hell and back or pristine originals and customs upwards of $10K.
Expect a '93 to be on the higher end. If you are going to keep it FI, stick to the newer Fox's. If you like carbs, look for an older 4 eyed Fox. One of the highly sought after now is the '79 Pace car. Prices are all over the place on those. Suspension mods are a great investment on these too. Be cautious with the first one or two years of production. The geometry of the rear upper control arms are in a dangerous location and caused a few out of control accidents/death. I personally know two people that were in early Fox bodys that either lost their life or is in a wheel chair now. Sounds crazy, but they moved the upper attachment points up or down less than an inch and it is a much better handling car now. There was a major lawsuit over this. The family of the kid I know that lost his life retired early from the settlement. If you want fast and lighter, get the coupe with the trunk. Much lighter car. |
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Posted: 6/10/2015 10:07:02 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
I've had an itch for a 93 GT since I was a kid. Something so awesome about the ugly boxy GT... Hardtop/convertible don't care which. My tentative plan would be to get one that I could take down, polish up, and rebuild, adding maybe some basic performance parts along the way. I wouldn't want to spend more than $5k for a running GT, then trickle more money into it over time. Have any of you ever done this? Is my initial budget reasonable? Those of you who have done it, what did you have success with and would you have done differently? Any pitfalls to watch out for? DO NOT get a convertible. If you're going to spend any time on a track, a convertible will be more trouble than its worth. Plus the fox body convertibles are pretty much universally all autos. If you really, really want a good fox body, get a LX hatchback. 
Or a regular GT: 
Make sure to stay away from the 87 speed density cars. Early 90's should do nicely. While its next to impossible to find, a stock car is preferred or at least a minimally modified one. Unfortunately, most fox body's have received the Kenny Powers treatment and look like unmitigated ass. Still, $5K should get you a nice car that will be a good project. |
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Posted: 6/10/2015 11:02:13 PM EDT
[#6]
My only advice is to try and find one that was owned by a "mature" individual.
As these aged, and the prices dropped, they often ended up in the hands of people that flogged the hell out of them. |
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Posted: 6/10/2015 11:52:14 PM EDT
[#7]
This thread makes me want to buy another fox body.
They are great cars to wrench on. My last one had a 331 stroker in it. Super fast and fucking loud as hell. |
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Posted: 6/11/2015 1:07:52 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My only advice is to try and find one that was owned by a "mature" individual. As these aged, and the prices dropped, they often ended up in the hands of people that flogged the hell out of them. I hate fox bodies, but there was a teal '93 cobra locally that looked "factory fresh" every time I saw it on the road. And I can honestly say, I wouldn't mind owning that one. |
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Posted: 6/11/2015 11:35:24 AM EDT
[#9]
I have nothing to add other than I have always wanted a fox body notchback. Or even a GT. There is a guy (an elderly man I think) down the street from me that has a very clean GT. I don't know if it has been restored or is all original but it appears to be unmolested.
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Posted: 6/11/2015 3:37:08 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Have any of you ever done this? Is my initial budget reasonable? Those of you who have done it, what did you have success with and would you have done differently? Any pitfalls to watch out for? The biggest thing is to hold out for one which was never smashed and has no rust. Transmission style is not on the top of the list for "Must Haves" 5/6 Speed conversions are easy and the AOD is a solid transmission with a little work. A $5K is a little on the tight side for a nice one but they definitely can be found, especially if you are willing to travel. To me it is not a big deal to convert to a V8 if you start out with a 4 cyl car. The bigger deal is the 4 cyl interiors. The V8 interiors with the Recaro Style Adjustable Sport Seats are far superior to the other cloth junk. 1992-1993 no longer had the adjustable "Under Thigh" support in the seats. The 1993 5.0 used Hypereutectic pistons instead of forged. Here is a chronological listing of the several cosmetic, functional and mechanical changes throughout the 1987 to 1993 body history http://www.mustanggt.org/gtchange.htm |
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Posted: 6/11/2015 4:07:30 PM EDT
[#11]
The age old question; hatch vs. notch.
Im a hatch man. I love the fox bodies. Cheap (relatively), incredible power (potential), and fun as hell. The weight transfer alone makes them great for race cars but they arent getting any younger and people think they were made to beat on so nice ones are going to be few and far between. I'd stay away from 87's and 88's with the speed density crap. The mass air cars are a lot easier to deal with. Forged bottom ends until 91 I think (could be wrong). Anyway you can do anything you want with them. We took a clean 89lx 5spd into the high 10s with a junk yard twin turbo set up for $1200 but sold the kit and used the money to go slower although more reliably with used gt40 heads, intake, bbk headers, injectors, king cobra clutch and 3:55 gears. I think that setup went mid to low 12s and was much more drivable. Could have tossed a 200 shot at it and been back in the tens but sold the car for one of those offers you cant refuse. So yes OP, I've done what you're talking about in a way and would do it again in a heartbeat. |
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Posted: 6/12/2015 7:47:36 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
+1. I hate fox bodies, but there was a teal '93 cobra locally that looked "factory fresh" every time I saw it on the road. And I can honestly say, I wouldn't mind owning that one. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
My only advice is to try and find one that was owned by a "mature" individual. As these aged, and the prices dropped, they often ended up in the hands of people that flogged the hell out of them. I hate fox bodies, but there was a teal '93 cobra locally that looked "factory fresh" every time I saw it on the road. And I can honestly say, I wouldn't mind owning that one. $20K+ car now. These things are bringing crazy ass stupid money these days. Question since I am also on the hunt: Speed density vs. MAF. Isn't it easy to convert over? Or is it a major PITA wiring harness change? |
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Posted: 6/12/2015 12:32:48 PM EDT
[#13]
Notch, and don't look back.
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Posted: 6/12/2015 6:31:14 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: $20K+ car now. These things are bringing crazy ass stupid money these days. Question since I am also on the hunt: Speed density vs. MAF. Isn't it easy to convert over? Or is it a major PITA wiring harness change? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: My only advice is to try and find one that was owned by a "mature" individual. As these aged, and the prices dropped, they often ended up in the hands of people that flogged the hell out of them. I hate fox bodies, but there was a teal '93 cobra locally that looked "factory fresh" every time I saw it on the road. And I can honestly say, I wouldn't mind owning that one. $20K+ car now. These things are bringing crazy ass stupid money these days. Question since I am also on the hunt: Speed density vs. MAF. Isn't it easy to convert over? Or is it a major PITA wiring harness change? |
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Posted: 6/12/2015 6:50:46 PM EDT
[#15]
My advice - Don't
I have a GT - its OK fast but handling is not in the class you might expect. I bought it as a cheap sleeper go fast car to replace my 928. White GT's are still all over and with an outwardly all stock appearance even the cops don't look at you twice going 20+ over. Also having the Flowmasters setup so the sound is good full rich yet low key, not like these rice racers with the dual stainless fart cans larger than coffee cans that sound like ass. |
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Posted: 6/15/2015 12:07:12 AM EDT
[#16]
Upon scanning some used car sites I've seen a lot of results for cars commanding 5 figures, mostly due to all the modifications dumped into them.
This isn't what I want, mostly because I can rest assured that said cars were driven like shit. If I could find a bone-stock 1990-93 car in decent shape, I'll take it. I'm not going to race it, I just want the car to drive (at least semi-)normally in it, period. So I've been doing some reading, please correct my impressions if needed. My primary concerns are: 1. Misaligned numbers on odometers suggests that the car has AT LEAST 100k miles on it. I've seen lots of ads that show this, and lots of ads suggesting that the stangs only have 30k, 20k, sometimes even 10k or less miles on them. 
2. The 5.0 HO engine, even stock, had enough oomph to bend/twist torque boxes and frames of the fox body. This is leaning me toward buying a 4-cylinder and then swapping in an engine as time/money permits. 3. If I decide to opt for a 4-cyl mustang, is the manual transmission therein equipped to handle normal (not 5k rpm clutch drops) 5.0 HO engine hp/torque, or was it a different transmission in the 4 cyl altogether? 4. I'm having trouble just finding a bone stock 5.0 HO crate engine that contains heads, headers, intake manifold etc. Most are either bare blocks or blocks with pistons, cams, timing chains, etc. Will I have to procure all of these parts in the aftermarket? Is there a place on the internet that will allow me to search for junked cars, parts, etc? 5. I've looked at swapping in modern coyote 5.0 and ls engines but I'm not a fan of all that fab work and reconfiguration, I'd rather keep it factory stock if possible. Please bear with my ignorance on this; I've never swapped an engine before but I want to learn, even if it means buying a bunch of specialized tools. For right now, I would be happy if someone showed me an ad for an early 90s 4 cyl manual hatchback fox body. Thanks for your responses thus far. 
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Posted: 6/15/2015 3:01:08 AM EDT
[#17]
2. Only a car that was abused will kill the torque boxes. By abused I mean seriously drag raced. On the street it is likely that traction is to limited to hit them that hard.
3. No. Just no. The T5 was used in tons of different vehicles and no way in hell should you use a t5 from a 4banger car behind a v8. Dont have the links but yes there are differences. If you are going to do any mods or power, a T5 to at least "world class" T5z specs(what went into the cobras) is needed as they were rated for 300-330ftlbs of torque. Honestly, get a V8 car and just make sure it has good wiring. You can get a decent short block or even long block from tons of different places. Slap in a head/cam/intake package and you are good. Suspension can be replaced for super easy, couple control arms or just bushings if you are cheap and you are set. Check mustang forums and you can quickly and easily buy parts from SN95s to upgrade brakes and move to 5 lug setups. Torque boxes can be repaired and reinforced. Not a huge issue. It is unlikely you will kill them unless you put sticky tires on and are doing hard launches at the strip. |
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Posted: 6/15/2015 4:47:46 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Upon scanning some used car sites I've seen a lot of results for cars commanding 5 figures, mostly due to all the modifications dumped into them. This isn't what I want, mostly because I can rest assured that said cars were driven like shit. If I could find a bone-stock 1990-93 car in decent shape, I'll take it. I'm not going to race it, I just want the car to drive (at least semi-)normally in it, period. So I've been doing some reading, please correct my impressions if needed. My primary concerns are: 1. Misaligned numbers on odometers suggests that the car has AT LEAST 100k miles on it. I've seen lots of ads that show this, and lots of ads suggesting that the stangs only have 30k, 20k, sometimes even 10k or less miles on them.
2. The 5.0 HO engine, even stock, had enough oomph to bend/twist torque boxes and frames of the fox body. This is leaning me toward buying a 4-cylinder and then swapping in an engine as time/money permits. 3. If I decide to opt for a 4-cyl mustang, is the manual transmission therein equipped to handle normal (not 5k rpm clutch drops) 5.0 HO engine hp/torque, or was it a different transmission in the 4 cyl altogether? 4. I'm having trouble just finding a bone stock 5.0 HO crate engine that contains heads, headers, intake manifold etc. Most are either bare blocks or blocks with pistons, cams, timing chains, etc. Will I have to procure all of these parts in the aftermarket? Is there a place on the internet that will allow me to search for junked cars, parts, etc? 5. I've looked at swapping in modern coyote 5.0 and ls engines but I'm not a fan of all that fab work and reconfiguration, I'd rather keep it factory stock if possible. Please bear with my ignorance on this; I've never swapped an engine before but I want to learn, even if it means buying a bunch of specialized tools. For right now, I would be happy if someone showed me an ad for an early 90s 4 cyl manual hatchback fox body. Thanks for your responses thus far. 1. Mileage doesn't matter that much. It's easy to swap a dash anyway so you never know what you're really getting on a car this old. 2. LOL - the 5.slow = 225HP/300TQ - does Ford make their frames out of cardboard? 3. I doubt it, but I would defer to the Ford guys. 4. "Bare block" is just a block. "Short block" be a rebuilt bottom end with nothing on top (heads, intake, etc). "Long block" will have that stuff, but you will need to use your own accessories (alternator, brackets, starter, power steering pump, etc). If you don't understand even the basics you're in for a world of hurt if you don't just spend the extra money now to buy a complete car. 5. Swapping modern motors into older cars may look cool, but it is unnecessary & a waste of money in most cases. You can make plenty of power with an old school motor as long as you set it up right - the aftermarket for Ford 5.0's is huge. |
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Posted: 6/15/2015 4:52:57 AM EDT
[#19]
Also, changing from an I4 or V6 to a V8 isn't just changing the engine/transmission & you're done.
You're probably going to have to swap the driveshaft, rear end, & suspension at a minimum. |
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Posted: 6/15/2015 5:09:19 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My advice - Don't I have a GT - its OK fast but handling is not in the class you might expect. I bought it as a cheap sleeper go fast car to replace my 928. snip |
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Posted: 6/15/2015 5:22:04 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Also, changing from an I4 or V6 to a V8 isn't just changing the engine/transmission & you're done. You're probably going to have to swap the driveshaft, rear end, & suspension at a minimum. Good to know. Weighing the pros/cons of doing all that vs. potentially buying a beat to hell 5.0 that might need that level of maintenance anyway. |
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Posted: 6/15/2015 10:01:51 AM EDT
[#22]
You have your state listed as Colorado, don't know where but this is what turned up searching in Denver
Not a 1993, but a GT, http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/5044101958.html is a "I give up" build that's under 5K, needs sweat, but looks like it comes with some decent goodies that eventually be built out into a really fun car. (apparently comes with uninstalled V1 Vortech supercharger) |
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Posted: 6/15/2015 11:13:40 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Upon scanning some used car sites I've seen a lot of results for cars commanding 5 figures, mostly due to all the modifications dumped into them. This isn't what I want, mostly because I can rest assured that said cars were driven like shit. If I could find a bone-stock 1990-93 car in decent shape, I'll take it. I'm not going to race it, I just want the car to drive (at least semi-)normally in it, period. So I've been doing some reading, please correct my impressions if needed. My primary concerns are: 1. Misaligned numbers on odometers suggests that the car has AT LEAST 100k miles on it. I've seen lots of ads that show this, and lots of ads suggesting that the stangs only have 30k, 20k, sometimes even 10k or less miles on them.
2. The 5.0 HO engine, even stock, had enough oomph to bend/twist torque boxes and frames of the fox body. This is leaning me toward buying a 4-cylinder and then swapping in an engine as time/money permits. 3. If I decide to opt for a 4-cyl mustang, is the manual transmission therein equipped to handle normal (not 5k rpm clutch drops) 5.0 HO engine hp/torque, or was it a different transmission in the 4 cyl altogether? 4. I'm having trouble just finding a bone stock 5.0 HO crate engine that contains heads, headers, intake manifold etc. Most are either bare blocks or blocks with pistons, cams, timing chains, etc. Will I have to procure all of these parts in the aftermarket? Is there a place on the internet that will allow me to search for junked cars, parts, etc? 5. I've looked at swapping in modern coyote 5.0 and ls engines but I'm not a fan of all that fab work and reconfiguration, I'd rather keep it factory stock if possible. 1. Most are rolled over. I would assume they are rolled once or twice or more . I have 2 Fox bodies . The one I am driving today is a 4 cylinder 5 speed with 278K 2. Torque boxes take all of the load on hard launches with sticky tires . I have never seen them damaged until slicks or drag radials get used. 3. It is the same T-5. ratios are different and first gear is not as strong . input shaft is also different and would have to be changed. 4,Look at Ford Motorsport or Roush for a complete running engine . If you want mods just buy a drop in and go. 5. You may be able to buy a cross member. If not I am sure someone makes mounts . It is a popular swap. Other stuff . GT's only come in hatch and convertible . The debate of truck vs, hatch . In drag strip testing with identical stock cars we saw no difference in ET. weight difference is minimal if any. If you buy a V-6 the K-member would have to be swapped for a V-8 swap . 4cylinder is a bolt in for a small block . Please bear with my ignorance on this; I've never swapped an engine before but I want to learn, even if it means buying a bunch of specialized tools. For right now, I would be happy if someone showed me an ad for an early 90s 4 cyl manual hatchback fox body. Thanks for your responses thus far. |
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Posted: 6/15/2015 11:21:50 AM EDT
[#24]
Good luck OP. I was looking for 3rd gen F-body's recently and during my search I would check out the fox body mustangs just for the heck of it. Age, rust and racing made in nigh impossible to find a nice example.
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Posted: 6/15/2015 11:55:56 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good luck OP. I was looking for 3rd gen F-body's recently and during my search I would check out the fox body mustangs just for the heck of it. Age, rust and racing made in nigh impossible to find a nice example. Great thing about foxes is so MANY are fucked up, that there's a pretty decent trail of good parts.  |
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Posted: 6/15/2015 1:05:37 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good luck OP. I was looking for 3rd gen F-body's recently and during my search I would check out the fox body mustangs just for the heck of it. Age, rust and racing made in nigh impossible to find a nice example. I would never do a 3rd gen F-body unless I was given it for free. 2nd gen looks better & is easier to work on. 4th gen can be had cheaply & the performance difference over the 3rd gen is massive. |
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Posted: 6/15/2015 2:29:58 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would never do a 3rd gen F-body unless I was given it for free. 2nd gen looks better & is easier to work on. 4th gen can be had cheaply & the performance difference over the 3rd gen is massive. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Good luck OP. I was looking for 3rd gen F-body's recently and during my search I would check out the fox body mustangs just for the heck of it. Age, rust and racing made in nigh impossible to find a nice example. I would never do a 3rd gen F-body unless I was given it for free. 2nd gen looks better & is easier to work on. 4th gen can be had cheaply & the performance difference over the 3rd gen is massive. The late 3rd gen 5.7L are not that bad, you can get them to go fast for a car of the era. However I do agree with your statement though I would specify the LS1 98-02 over the LT1 engines. The LS1 was so good nothing else came close to it for years until the 03 cobra. My stock 2000 SS did 13.1 stock, 12.70s with lid and catback |
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Posted: 6/15/2015 11:00:01 PM EDT
[#28]
start growing the mullet now
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Posted: 6/15/2015 11:45:17 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: start growing the mullet now Gotta get your stereotypes right.  |
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Posted: 6/16/2015 8:56:57 AM EDT
[#30]
I was just thinking about that music video this morning, I had "Extremely Live" pumpin for the AM commute
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Posted: 6/16/2015 10:46:30 AM EDT
[#31]
Strange post. I'm actually going to sell my 87 GT. I redid almost everything. I love that car, but I have a baby now, and a house, so I'm on the market for a truck. I'm going to miss it, but oh well. I've had some good times in that car, but I never drive it. It just sits in the garage.
They are easy to work on, and easy to make fast. I converted mine to mass air, as it was speed density. Then I put an E303 cam, GT40p heads, and a professional products intake. 70mm throttle body, 76mm Mass air, 24# injectors, underdrive pulleys, 3.55 in the rear, subframe connectors, ceramic shorty headers going to an offroad h-pipe going to flowmaster 40s. It sounds good. I got some Lakewood 50/50 shocks for the rear, and 4cyl springs for the front, but I never got to it. I also was planning on deleting the A/C, but I'm not going to bother now since I'm going to sell it. Yeah, I'm going to miss it. 
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Posted: 6/16/2015 10:58:55 AM EDT
[#32]
Had a 89 lx 306, subframes, torque box repairs & lots of N2O. Was fun . Have a 2000 Trans Am 6spd now lsx powered over 500hp n/a lots of fun with 4.30 gears!
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Posted: 6/16/2015 11:04:08 AM EDT
[#33]
I don't even know what to ask for my car on craigslist. I'm thinking maybe $6500 or so.
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Posted: 6/17/2015 6:11:58 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
2. The 5.0 HO engine, even stock, had enough oomph to bend/twist torque boxes and frames of the fox body. This is leaning me toward buying a 4-cylinder and then swapping in an engine as time/money permits. 3. If I decide to opt for a 4-cyl mustang, is the manual transmission therein equipped to handle normal (not 5k rpm clutch drops) 5.0 HO engine hp/torque, or was it a different transmission in the 4 cyl altogether? 4. I'm having trouble just finding a bone stock 5.0 HO crate engine that contains heads, headers, intake manifold etc. Most are either bare blocks or blocks with pistons, cams, timing chains, etc. Will I have to procure all of these parts in the aftermarket? Is there a place on the internet that will allow me to search for junked cars, parts, etc? A stock 5.0 HO did NOT have the "omphh" to bend the frame, especially with street tires. 4 cyl 5 speeds are NOT strong enough for a V8. Not only do you have to swap rear ends, the front spindles are different on 4 and 6 cyl cars vs V8 cars in order to run V8 size rotors. The 5.0 rotors are barely large enough to stop the car without heating up if you are running hard. I cracked brake pads on the strip while hot lapping and slowing down from 120+ with 4 cyl sized rotors. A Low mileage Explorer engine is your best bang for the buck. |
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Posted: 6/17/2015 11:44:20 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A stock 5.0 HO did NOT have the "omphh" to bend the frame, especially with street tires. 4 cyl 5 speeds are NOT strong enough for a V8. Not only do you have to swap rear ends, the front spindles are different on 4 and 6 cyl cars vs V8 cars in order to run V8 size rotors. The 5.0 rotors are barely large enough to stop the car without heating up if you are running hard. I cracked brake pads on the strip while hot lapping and slowing down from 120+ with 4 cyl sized rotors. A Low mileage Explorer engine is your best bang for the buck. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
2. The 5.0 HO engine, even stock, had enough oomph to bend/twist torque boxes and frames of the fox body. This is leaning me toward buying a 4-cylinder and then swapping in an engine as time/money permits. 3. If I decide to opt for a 4-cyl mustang, is the manual transmission therein equipped to handle normal (not 5k rpm clutch drops) 5.0 HO engine hp/torque, or was it a different transmission in the 4 cyl altogether? 4. I'm having trouble just finding a bone stock 5.0 HO crate engine that contains heads, headers, intake manifold etc. Most are either bare blocks or blocks with pistons, cams, timing chains, etc. Will I have to procure all of these parts in the aftermarket? Is there a place on the internet that will allow me to search for junked cars, parts, etc? A stock 5.0 HO did NOT have the "omphh" to bend the frame, especially with street tires. 4 cyl 5 speeds are NOT strong enough for a V8. Not only do you have to swap rear ends, the front spindles are different on 4 and 6 cyl cars vs V8 cars in order to run V8 size rotors. The 5.0 rotors are barely large enough to stop the car without heating up if you are running hard. I cracked brake pads on the strip while hot lapping and slowing down from 120+ with 4 cyl sized rotors. A Low mileage Explorer engine is your best bang for the buck. Exploder engines did come with GT40 style intake and heads. However didnt some of them move to a distributorless ignition when OBD2 came in? Not sure how the triggering for that system worked or if their blocks could be retrofit to have a distributor stabbed in. Foxbody with a stroked 351 setup would be a sweet ticket. Still trying to figure out if I want to spend 10k to buy a 95 Cobra with a blown 383 that originated from a wrecked Cobra R. Includes victor heads and EFI intake for a swap to help it get the top end it desperately needs. |
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Posted: 6/19/2015 5:30:45 PM EDT
[#36]
Leaning towards a 5.0 SN95 GT now. Local guy has a 94 convertible up for $2750 with 155k miles, looks clean. I'll see if I can't talk him down to 2k
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Posted: 6/19/2015 6:02:47 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Exploder engines did come with GT40 style intake and heads. However didnt some of them move to a distributorless ignition when OBD2 came in? Not sure how the triggering for that system worked or if their blocks could be retrofit to have a distributor stabbed in. Explorer blocks are identical to every other 5.0 block. I have personally installed several Explorer engines in Carburetor applications. You just have to swap over the timing cover and crank damper to the Mustang style, screw in an oil filter adapter, stab in a distributor and bolt your carb intake on. |
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Posted: 6/19/2015 6:23:23 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Leaning towards a 5.0 SN95 GT now. Local guy has a 94 convertible up for $2750 with 155k miles, looks clean. I'll see if I can't talk him down to 2k DO NOT BUY A CHEAP MUSTANG CONVERTIBLE I made that mistake with a clean loaded LX 5.0 fox. After months on the market I traded it for a tired Geo tracker and a Beretta 92fs and could seal the deal fast enough. Until they're classics convertibles are worthless While the thread is here I had this vid sent to me of a friend of mines 6.0 powered fox body, full interior, daily driven 20mpg car [youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&persist_app=1&v=lfZW81ZdFTw[/youtube] |
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Posted: 6/19/2015 6:27:35 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Exploder engines did come with GT40 style intake and heads. However didnt some of them move to a distributorless ignition when OBD2 came in? They did however they did it with the least work possible. Distributor style lower with the CPS-type sensor where the rotor would be. 
It's a take it out and drop in a normal dist swap |
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Posted: 6/19/2015 6:31:13 PM EDT
[#40]
Having done an LS swapped fox and having owned 5.0 powered ones I laugh at the notion that someone thinks a 5.0 powered car is fast.
OP you can do so much better than a weak clapped out worn out 15yo++ exploder engine |
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Posted: 6/19/2015 6:35:53 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Having done an LS swapped fox and having owned 5.0 powered ones I laugh at the notion that someone thinks a 5.0 powered car is fast. OP you can do so much better than a weak clapped out worn out 15yo++ exploder engine |
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Posted: 6/19/2015 6:47:28 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So are you saying dollar for dollar/ pound for pound the LS is faster? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Having done an LS swapped fox and having owned 5.0 powered ones I laugh at the notion that someone thinks a 5.0 powered car is fast. OP you can do so much better than a weak clapped out worn out 15yo++ exploder engine Absolutely no question about it. Especially if starting with a 4cyl chassis as many many of the required changes would need to be done for either engine platform Swaps can be as cheap or as expensive as you want to make them with the price largely depending on how bolt in you want the swap to be. |
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Posted: 6/19/2015 6:51:09 PM EDT
[#43]
And to be completely fair and transparent I feel the same way about the old SBC these days as well.
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Posted: 6/20/2015 5:46:44 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So are you saying dollar for dollar/ pound for pound the LS is faster? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Having done an LS swapped fox and having owned 5.0 powered ones I laugh at the notion that someone thinks a 5.0 powered car is fast. OP you can do so much better than a weak clapped out worn out 15yo++ exploder engine LX coupe + LS engine = winning... no way around it...... |
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Posted: 6/20/2015 5:54:28 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: LX coupe + LS engine = winning... no way around it...... Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Having done an LS swapped fox and having owned 5.0 powered ones I laugh at the notion that someone thinks a 5.0 powered car is fast. OP you can do so much better than a weak clapped out worn out 15yo++ exploder engine LX coupe + LS engine = winning... no way around it...... |
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Posted: 6/20/2015 6:14:02 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Unless you use any other engine with any other parts and win. Then that's away around it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Having done an LS swapped fox and having owned 5.0 powered ones I laugh at the notion that someone thinks a 5.0 powered car is fast. OP you can do so much better than a weak clapped out worn out 15yo++ exploder engine LX coupe + LS engine = winning... no way around it...... Try it sometime and get back to us. Your opinion will change. Watch the vid above. How many other other stock production v8's do you know of that can put out well over a K to the tires on a stock block and rotating assembly while running NINES and being daily drivable. Your explooter swap isn't shiz, it's a poverty engine for people with no wrenching and building skills. Modular motors can make good power but who wants a motor where you cannot see or even touch the headers from the top where a cam swap is a $3000 proposal |
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Posted: 6/20/2015 6:33:33 PM EDT
[#47]
That is the thing, look at the displacements of some of the LS swaps.
Unless a person does a 408 stroker 351w build with a good top end for a Foxbody it just isnt even close. Only reason I am sticking to 302 based engine in my car is so that it isnt completely obvious that it is so heavily modded. Just trying to get my 331 in without making it look too obvious, other than intake, is going to be a challenge. Might be I put the 331 in something else entirely and just do standard heads/intake swap to match it's cam and retune since I have to worry about smog. You guys in states that do safety inspections but no smog have it so good it is rediculous. |
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Posted: 6/20/2015 6:56:08 PM EDT
[#48]
Hell we don't even have safety inspections here lol
Sorry I had to rub it in. |
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Posted: 6/20/2015 7:15:49 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hell we don't even have safety inspections here lol Sorry I had to rub it in. Ass... Really does make it so easy that it is stupid. Meanwhile I am considering ProM stand alone for the 331 while keeping EVERYTHING intact for the pulled almost stock Cobra 302 for future use should it need to go back in. |
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Posted: 6/20/2015 8:21:23 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Leaning towards a 5.0 SN95 GT now. Local guy has a 94 convertible up for $2750 with 155k miles, looks clean. I'll see if I can't talk him down to 2k That is a good price and a great platform to start with. You get better brakes and a better quality interior. .
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