User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 12:04:08 PM EDT
[#1]
I personally like the 88+ Chevy K1500 trucks. I think they are the best bang for the buck when it comes to "weekend Home Depot trucks".
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 2:37:16 PM EDT
[#2]
Avoid
Dodge Any ford with a v6 Any GM between 96 and 00 Play by these rules and you won't get hurt |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 6:41:42 PM EDT
[#3]
Going to look at a couple of 97 GMC/Chevy trucks. A V6 manual and a V8 auto.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 6:49:59 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Going to look at a couple of 97 GMC/Chevy trucks. A V6 manual and a V8 auto. NO Just no You do not want the intake leaking fuel spider eating pain in the balls these trucks represent |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 7:37:04 PM EDT
[#5]
Why not look at a southern truck ? My old boss was in MN and that is what he did . He said he could have sold it and made a profit many times just due to the no rust feature.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 8:52:35 PM EDT
[#6]
How would I get the truck here? I really don't want to lay out a couple grand without even seeing the truck.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 8:55:56 PM EDT
[#7]
Something with the ol' 350 in it. Can't kill 'em with a hand grenade. My 96 Silverado had 244K on it when I sold it and it's STILL going. Had a couple alternators along the way and one fuel pump.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 9:20:12 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: NO Just no You do not want the intake leaking fuel spider eating pain in the balls these trucks represent Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Going to look at a couple of 97 GMC/Chevy trucks. A V6 manual and a V8 auto. NO Just no You do not want the intake leaking fuel spider eating pain in the balls these trucks represent |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 9:30:45 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The V6 or V8? From what I've read they are both pretty reliable and trouble-free. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Going to look at a couple of 97 GMC/Chevy trucks. A V6 manual and a V8 auto. NO Just no You do not want the intake leaking fuel spider eating pain in the balls these trucks represent Both engines have pretty much the same issues |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 10:05:06 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Both engines have pretty much the same issues Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Going to look at a couple of 97 GMC/Chevy trucks. A V6 manual and a V8 auto. NO Just no You do not want the intake leaking fuel spider eating pain in the balls these trucks represent Both engines have pretty much the same issues |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 10:30:00 PM EDT
[#11]
The 4.3 V6 that I'm looking at has 100k and the V8 has 200k.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 11:13:38 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
NO Just no You do not want the intake leaking fuel spider eating pain in the balls these trucks represent Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Going to look at a couple of 97 GMC/Chevy trucks. A V6 manual and a V8 auto. NO Just no You do not want the intake leaking fuel spider eating pain in the balls these trucks represent I never had that leak but I owned a 1997 K1500 and I am very easy on my vehicles. Given that list of crap that needed fixing. 2 transmissions 1 radiator 1 water pump 2 thermostats 2 serpentine belts 1 set of belt pulleys 1 brake booster 1 rear U joint 1 set of crappy plastic intake gaskets 2 a/c compressors I ignition switch 1 fuel pump 1 interior door handle assembly 1 rear brake light circuit board 1 power steering pump To put into perspective, I repaired less stuff on my Land Rover than the Chevy. I both got rid of them at the same 160,000 miles. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 11:14:21 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The V6 or V8? From what I've read they are both pretty reliable and trouble-free. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Going to look at a couple of 97 GMC/Chevy trucks. A V6 manual and a V8 auto. NO Just no You do not want the intake leaking fuel spider eating pain in the balls these trucks represent The engines aren't the issue. It's everything that surrounds them. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 11:16:13 PM EDT
[#14]
What would everyone recommend as a good, solid pre-2000 4WD full-size truck?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 11:36:37 PM EDT
[#15]
If you can get an un rusty one, a dodge with the 12 valve and manual tranny would be the best. Anybody that tells you different is a liar. If a Cummins is unavailable a ford with a manual tranny and a 300 six would be an excellent second choice. The motors are tanks, and make great power for an old 6 cylinder, you can get them in 3/4 ton, and the older ford bodies aren't horrible. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2015 11:56:09 PM EDT
[#16]
Personally, I am pretty partial to the 97-03 F150s, and First Generation Toyota Tundras.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 12:29:32 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What would everyone recommend as a good, solid pre-2000 4WD full-size truck? I told you any pre 96 GM truck Particularily ones with the TBI engines. Stupid reliable Easy to fix Cheap to fix And the interiors and chassis wear like iron. They are the ultimate "need reliability for cheap" vehicles The bodies may look the same but as midcap alludes to GM changed and cheaped out on so many components for the 95+ gmt400 (88-98) trucks I personally avoid them even though the engines have nearly 100hp on the older trucks |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 12:49:29 AM EDT
[#18]
Cheap old Ford f350 with a 7.3 diesel or Dodge 12 valve diesel.
They'll likely have rust but you can always throw a flatbed on it. Honestly shop around and do a wide internet search, I commonly see nice ones time to time with little rust or new body panels already installed and painted. Also front fenders etc are cheap to buy if you can do body work, paint. I never liked many of the 90's gas engines and I've had Dodge 5.9 magnum and also big block Chevy and Ford gassers 7.4 and 7.5 I believe. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 1:11:13 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I told you any pre 96 GM truck Particularily ones with the TBI engines. Stupid reliable Easy to fix Cheap to fix And the interiors and chassis wear like iron. They are the ultimate "need reliability for cheap" vehicles The bodies may look the same but as midcap alludes to GM changed and cheaped out on so many components for the 95+ gmt400 (88-98) trucks I personally avoid them even though the engines have nearly 100hp on the older trucks Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
What would everyone recommend as a good, solid pre-2000 4WD full-size truck? I told you any pre 96 GM truck Particularily ones with the TBI engines. Stupid reliable Easy to fix Cheap to fix And the interiors and chassis wear like iron. They are the ultimate "need reliability for cheap" vehicles The bodies may look the same but as midcap alludes to GM changed and cheaped out on so many components for the 95+ gmt400 (88-98) trucks I personally avoid them even though the engines have nearly 100hp on the older trucks This is good advice. Mine is a 1991 K1500 extended cab shortbed. It seems to be the most common of that generation of truck out there. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 1:42:52 AM EDT
[#20]
Any mid-'90's Ford with the 300 I-6, 302, or 351W will be a very solid truck.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 1:51:06 AM EDT
[#21]
Any of the Ford F-150 or F250 trucks from between 1988-1996 were pretty solid trucks. Many were equipped with 4wd, especially the short bed versions. You can find a lot of them with manual and both the 5.0 V8 and the 4.9 6cyl were great engines. The 4.9 is legendary
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 6:11:03 AM EDT
[#22]
If you can get an un rusty one, a dodge with the 12 valve and manual tranny would be the best. Anybody that tells you different is a liar. Question is, what is the OP willing to spend? Its getting harder and harder to find decent deals on 12v Cummins anymore, especially ones that aren't high mileage and/or thrashed. Your options are cheap, low mileage, and not thrashed....but you only get to pick two. That being said, I wouldn't be that worried about a 200-250k mile 12v with NV4500 5-speed...I'd be more concerned with the truck surrounding it. Dash will be cracked and broken, interior torn apart, will need ball joints, A/C may or may not work, etc. Of course, you can find decent lower mileage trucks ('96-'97) in the sub-200k miles range that were well taken care of, but you will be paying a premium (typically $10k+). |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 6:17:46 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What would everyone recommend as a good, solid pre-2000 4WD full-size truck? Any ford F150 with a 300cid (4.9l) straight six and manual transmission. The drivetrain will last literally forever, just find one with a halfway decent body and buy it. ETA: I doubt you'll find one in your area that's not a pile of rust, but the Toyota T100s are fantastic trucks, very solid and reliable, but most who own them keep them until they die. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 11:35:57 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Any ford F150 with a 300cid (4.9l) straight six and manual transmission. The drivetrain will last literally forever, just find one with a halfway decent body and buy it. ETA: I doubt you'll find one in your area that's not a pile of rust, but the Toyota T100s are fantastic trucks, very solid and reliable, but most who own them keep them until they die. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
What would everyone recommend as a good, solid pre-2000 4WD full-size truck? Any ford F150 with a 300cid (4.9l) straight six and manual transmission. The drivetrain will last literally forever, just find one with a halfway decent body and buy it. ETA: I doubt you'll find one in your area that's not a pile of rust, but the Toyota T100s are fantastic trucks, very solid and reliable, but most who own them keep them until they die. This. I daily drive a 94 XLT 4x4 but with the 5.8. Fantastic truck. Plenty of power and one of the better looking body styles IMO. 160k on the odometer and I only paid $2000 for it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 2:28:01 PM EDT
[#25]
F150 or Toyota T100. My FIL drives a 98 Tahoe. It's been a good truck.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 4:05:57 PM EDT
[#26]
I bought the 97 with the extra cab and the 350. The guy owned it for 16 years and has the full service history. It needs a little rust repair, but otherwise it's in good shape. It rides, shifts, drives nice. The problems mentioned (intake gaskets, injectors, etc.) were already repaired. I have the receipts. I think I did well at $1800.
    |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 5:32:11 PM EDT
[#27]
It looks good for an old truck, and it only cost $1800 so if its a turd your not out much.
How did it drive going home? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 5:53:01 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It looks good for an old truck, and it only cost $1800 so if its a turd your not out much. How did it drive going home? |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 6:14:02 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The 50 mile trip was fine. No issues at all. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
It looks good for an old truck, and it only cost $1800 so if its a turd your not out much. How did it drive going home? If you have tickets on the injectors and intake gaskets that's the two major downfalls of these Taken care of. It is a good looking truck |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 6:52:14 PM EDT
[#30]
Looks like a great truck for 1800!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 7:04:09 PM EDT
[#31]
Quoted:
I'm looking around for an older truck to use for dump runs, going to the range, etc. My price range limits me to 2000 or older trucks. I'd like a pre-96 to avoid the OBD test at inspection time, but so far these older trucks have big rust issues. Aside from rust issues are there any specific truck/engine/transmissions that I should avoid? I've seen a lot of issues with late 90s V6 F150s, so I'll avoid those. Buy a ford with a striaght 6 300 Titan engines are shit in 1996 + ford trucks The 300 are buet proof Dont by a dodge chevy gmc |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 7:34:35 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Buy a ford with a striaght 6 300 Titan engines are shit in 1996 + ford trucks The 300 are buet proof Dont by a dodge chevy gmc Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I'm looking around for an older truck to use for dump runs, going to the range, etc. My price range limits me to 2000 or older trucks. I'd like a pre-96 to avoid the OBD test at inspection time, but so far these older trucks have big rust issues. Aside from rust issues are there any specific truck/engine/transmissions that I should avoid? I've seen a lot of issues with late 90s V6 F150s, so I'll avoid those. Buy a ford with a striaght 6 300 Titan engines are shit in 1996 + ford trucks The 300 are buet proof Dont by a dodge chevy gmc Triton, not Titan...and they are far from shit. The 4.6 and the 5.4, along with the accompanying 6.8 V10, are some of the longest living gas motors made. 300k miles are not at all uncommon with minimal maintenance. I have had Fords with 5.0s, 5.8s, 4.9s, 4.6s, and 5.4s....I like the mod motors better than any of them. The 97-03 body style is one of my favorites.... They do have their own idiosyncrasies, like all motors, but overall, they are very solid. The 4.6 in the Crown Vic police cars are and were legendary. A bit down on power, of course, but when you can wring 250k+ miles out of a cop car with no major engine issues, they are doing something right. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/22/2015 8:06:54 PM EDT
[#33]
This truck has 205K, and I'm guessing I'll only put 5 or 6K a year. I'm hoping to get at least 5 years out of it.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/27/2015 10:07:29 PM EDT
[#34]
As for the intake gasket on the 96-98 chevy. I have minimal mechanical ability and found it fairly easy to fix. $100 or so in parts buying the more expensive gasket option.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/28/2015 7:34:22 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I never had that leak but I owned a 1997 K1500 and I am very easy on my vehicles. Given that list of crap that needed fixing. 2 transmissions 1 radiator 1 water pump 2 thermostats 2 serpentine belts 1 set of belt pulleys 1 brake booster 1 rear U joint 1 set of crappy plastic intake gaskets 2 a/c compressors I ignition switch 1 fuel pump 1 interior door handle assembly 1 rear brake light circuit board 1 power steering pump To put into perspective, I repaired less stuff on my Land Rover than the Chevy. I both got rid of them at the same 160,000 miles. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Going to look at a couple of 97 GMC/Chevy trucks. A V6 manual and a V8 auto. NO Just no You do not want the intake leaking fuel spider eating pain in the balls these trucks represent I never had that leak but I owned a 1997 K1500 and I am very easy on my vehicles. Given that list of crap that needed fixing. 2 transmissions 1 radiator 1 water pump 2 thermostats 2 serpentine belts 1 set of belt pulleys 1 brake booster 1 rear U joint 1 set of crappy plastic intake gaskets 2 a/c compressors I ignition switch 1 fuel pump 1 interior door handle assembly 1 rear brake light circuit board 1 power steering pump To put into perspective, I repaired less stuff on my Land Rover than the Chevy. I both got rid of them at the same 160,000 miles. I have a 96 with the 350 Vortec. I have had to replace pretty much every thing on this list, with the exception of the transmission, ac compressor, and belt pulleys. The other stuff is fairly inexpensive (if you fix it yourself) and common to replace at 100-150K miles. With that being said mine has almost 300,000 miles on it, and the repair costs are fairly insignificant when spread over 19 years. I know the 700R4 isn't really anything to right home about, but I never had to replace one. However, I don't do very much towing, though, and that might be the difference between replacing two transmissions. That could be a deal breaker if you plan to do a lot of towing. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
