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Posted: 3/1/2015 11:57:03 PM EDT
2012 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T with poor performing AC.  I brought it into the dealership and they tell me it is empty of refrigerant.  They want $790 to replace the condenser.  Get it back and the AC no longer works.  I charged it with nitrogen and see it is leaking out the condenser.  The dealership claims the condenser must have been damage by road debris.  I bought a replacement condenser for $65, 30-lb of R134a refrigerant for $120, and some PAG oil.  

Front bumper removal


Front bumper

Damaged Condenser

Rock damage, yeah right.  Looks like screwdriver induced damage to me.

Removing Condenser

Removing Compressor

Compressor out

Flush kit:

Evacuating the system

Manifold gauge setup

Vacuum system down to 64 microns.  Held for 30-mins with a rise to 74 micron

Valve core removal tools and Snap-On leak detector

Link Posted: 3/2/2015 12:42:23 AM EDT
[#1]
At least you did a thorough job. Most people would just jb weld the condenser shut and add r134, and at the very most might add a new condenser and add r134 but not run a vacuum or add PAG. Sucks that it happened on such a new vehicle
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 1:01:19 AM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
2012 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T with poor performing AC.  I brought it into the dealership and they tell me it is empty of refrigerant.  They want $790 to replace the condenser.  Get it back and the AC no longer works.  I charged it with nitrogen and see it is leaking out the condenser.  The dealership claims the condenser must have been damage by road debris.  I bought a replacement condenser for $65, 30-lb of R134a refrigerant for $120, and some PAG oil.  

Front bumper removal
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/user/AR15Texan/media/Bumper%20Removed.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/Bumper%20Removed.jpg</a>
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/user/AR15Texan/media/20150215_172842.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/20150215_172842.jpg</a>
Front bumper
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/user/AR15Texan/media/Front%20Bumper%20Cover.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/Front%20Bumper%20Cover.jpg</a>
Damaged Condenser
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/user/AR15Texan/media/20150215_212629.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/20150215_212629.jpg</a>
Rock damage, yeah right.  Looks like screwdriver induced damage to me.
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/user/AR15Texan/media/Condenser%20Damage%20Closeup.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/Condenser%20Damage%20Closeup.jpg</a>
Removing Condenser
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/user/AR15Texan/media/Intercooler%20Mounting.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/Intercooler%20Mounting.jpg</a>
Removing Compressor
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/user/AR15Texan/media/Compressor%20Lines.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/Compressor%20Lines.jpg</a>
Compressor out
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/user/AR15Texan/media/Visteon%20VS16E%20Compressor.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/Visteon%20VS16E%20Compressor.jpg</a>
Flush kit:
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/user/AR15Texan/media/Nitrogen%20Tank-Regulator.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/Nitrogen%20Tank-Regulator.jpg</a>
Evacuating the system
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/user/AR15Texan/media/Evacuation.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/Evacuation.jpg</a>
Manifold gauge setup
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/user/AR15Texan/media/R134a%20Mainfold%20Gauge.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/R134a%20Mainfold%20Gauge.jpg</a>
Vacuum system down to 64 microns.  Held for 30-mins with a rise to 74 micron
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/user/AR15Texan/media/Vacuum%20Reading.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/Vacuum%20Reading.jpg</a>
Valve core removal tools and Snap-On leak detector
<a href="http://s196.photobucket.com/user/AR15Texan/media/Valve%20Core%20Tool%20Leak%20Detector.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/AR15Texan/Valve%20Core%20Tool%20Leak%20Detector.jpg</a>
View Quote

If that gouge fits a 1/4" screw driver, I would be complaining to Hyundai corporate.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 1:04:28 AM EDT
[#3]
Nice! I have always wanted to work on an a/c system but dang, the tools are expensive.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 8:37:24 AM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Nice! I have always wanted to work on an a/c system but dang, the tools are expensive.
View Quote

The vacuum pump is the most expensive but essential.  Mine is Robinair 15400 4cfm 2-stage with a ballast valve.  Pumps down to 25-micron.  The digital micron gauge is the next expensive.  Both are around $250.  But there are better micron gauges out there in the $200 range.  The digital scale was $140, but well worth it because I was able to get 30-lb of R134a at $120 shipped instead of $16 for 12-oz cans.  I assembled the charging setup and then tare the scale.  Open the valve and I can charge to 0.1-oz accuracy.  Well worth it.

I also bought an R-410A manifold gauges, a psychrometer, an anemometer, pipe clamp thermocouples, 1/4" core removal tools, and an infrared thermometer to work on residential HVAC.  I just need an R-410A supply and recovery tank.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 8:45:55 AM EDT
[#5]
Nice job, but why buy such a huge container of 134?
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 12:40:20 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Nice job, but why buy such a huge container of 134?
View Quote


Cans of 12-oz at the local stores are $16+ I would of needed 3 of them.  12-packs of 12-oz online were around $65-$70, for $89.99 I got 30-lbs.  Figured I was set for a while if I had AC problems with my other cars or the refrigerator.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 1:06:14 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Nice! I have always wanted to work on an a/c system but dang, the tools are expensive.
View Quote




Some of the tools are available from Harbor Freight for a much lower price.  Probably not the best for commercial use but for a homeowner, they work fine.
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 7:19:45 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Cans of 12-oz at the local stores are $16+ I would of needed 3 of them.  12-packs of 12-oz online were around $65-$70, for $89.99 I got 30-lbs.  Figured I was set for a while if I had AC problems with my other cars or the refrigerator.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Nice job, but why buy such a huge container of 134?


Cans of 12-oz at the local stores are $16+ I would of needed 3 of them.  12-packs of 12-oz online were around $65-$70, for $89.99 I got 30-lbs.  Figured I was set for a while if I had AC problems with my other cars or the refrigerator.


Touche.
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 10:33:20 AM EDT
[#9]
FWIW, shop around on freon.  I found the cans at Big Lots for less than $6 each.
Link Posted: 4/2/2015 2:04:27 PM EDT
[#10]
Why add oil?  Did the oil in the system leak out?  Honestly I have only charged new systems and really always wondered about the oil issue.


I have that same IR air compressor.


I have done several systems with HF gauges and vacuum pump.  They work just fine.  Sometimes you can get can R134 under $10 on sale at Wally or the 99cent store. The system I do use less than two cans.
Link Posted: 4/3/2015 2:45:01 PM EDT
[#11]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Why add oil?  Did the oil in the system leak out?  Honestly I have only charged new systems and really always wondered about the oil issue.





I have that same IR air compressor.





I have done several systems with HF gauges and vacuum pump.  They work just fine.  Sometimes you can get can R134 under $10 on sale at Wally or the 99cent store. The system I do use less than two cans.
View Quote
You need to add oil to keep the refrigerant moving freely thru the system.

 















The oil is for the compressor and if he flushed it the old oil is gone.
Link Posted: 4/4/2015 12:36:39 AM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Cans of 12-oz at the local stores are $16+ I would of needed 3 of them.  12-packs of 12-oz online were around $65-$70, for $89.99 I got 30-lbs.  Figured I was set for a while if I had AC problems with my other cars or the refrigerator.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Nice job, but why buy such a huge container of 134?


Cans of 12-oz at the local stores are $16+ I would of needed 3 of them.  12-packs of 12-oz online were around $65-$70, for $89.99 I got 30-lbs.  Figured I was set for a while if I had AC problems with my other cars or the refrigerator.



Fridge uses a different type of freon .
Link Posted: 4/4/2015 1:28:58 AM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Nice job, but why buy such a huge container of 134?
View Quote


I've got 6 drums I bought for $30 each. Why not?
Link Posted: 4/4/2015 12:54:26 PM EDT
[#14]
You've made a very informative post. however, I don't believe you can credibly call this a "DIY" thread.  Yes, you did it yourself but it seems you have considerable knowledge on the subject and a considerable investment in tools.

Tell me, are you an automotive professional?  Are you an AC professional or HVAC pro?

What is the total cost for the refrigeration tools anda gages you used for this repair?

How would a true do it yourself person access tools and gages like those?  Are they available for rent?
Link Posted: 4/5/2015 12:15:47 AM EDT
[#15]
What is the total cost for the refrigeration tools anda gages you used for this repair?
View Quote


You can get a 30lb bottle of 134 for less than $100-125, which would be way more than you need.  I'm sure a few smaller cans (enough for a typical vehicle) would be around $20-30.  Vacuum pump is around $100-300, depending on the brand, and gauges can run anywhere from $45 at Harbor Freight to a couple/few hundred from Snap On or similar.  You also need a scale, but I know some guys who don't use them.  

It gets a little expensive for the DIY, but the knowledge gained in being able to do this work yourself is priceless.  

Link Posted: 4/5/2015 5:26:14 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


You can get a 30lb bottle of 134 for less than $100-125, which would be way more than you need.  I'm sure a few smaller cans (enough for a typical vehicle) would be around $20-30.  Vacuum pump is around $100-300, depending on the brand, and gauges can run anywhere from $45 at Harbor Freight to a couple/few hundred from Snap On or similar.  You also need a scale, but I know some guys who don't use them.  

It gets a little expensive for the DIY, but the knowledge gained in being able to do this work yourself is priceless.  

View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What is the total cost for the refrigeration tools anda gages you used for this repair?


You can get a 30lb bottle of 134 for less than $100-125, which would be way more than you need.  I'm sure a few smaller cans (enough for a typical vehicle) would be around $20-30.  Vacuum pump is around $100-300, depending on the brand, and gauges can run anywhere from $45 at Harbor Freight to a couple/few hundred from Snap On or similar.  You also need a scale, but I know some guys who don't use them.  

It gets a little expensive for the DIY, but the knowledge gained in being able to do this work yourself is priceless.  




This.  

Plus, once you buy the tools, you'll have them for future AC repairs.  

AC repairs get expensive if you have to go to a shop for them.
Link Posted: 4/12/2015 1:32:27 PM EDT
[#17]
Both my refrigerators and freezer have R134a as a refrigerant.
Link Posted: 4/12/2015 1:36:18 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Why add oil?  Did the oil in the system leak out?  Honestly I have only charged new systems and really always wondered about the oil issue.


I have that same IR air compressor.


I have done several systems with HF gauges and vacuum pump.  They work just fine.  Sometimes you can get can R134 under $10 on sale at Wally or the 99cent store. The system I do use less than two cans.
View Quote

I flushed the system with a solvent pressurized with my shop air.  All but the compressor and expansion valve were flushed clean.  I drained the compressor of all the  oil gravity would get out overnight.
Link Posted: 4/12/2015 1:46:45 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
You've made a very informative post. however, I don't believe you can credibly call this a "DIY" thread.  Yes, you did it yourself but it seems you have considerable knowledge on the subject and a considerable investment in tools.

Tell me, are you an automotive professional?  Are you an AC professional or HVAC pro?

What is the total cost for the refrigeration tools anda gages you used for this repair?

How would a true do it yourself person access tools and gages like those?  Are they available for rent?
View Quote


I'm not an HVAC professional.  I've gained a majority of my knowledge reading books from the local library, youtube videos, EPA study guides, and the manufacturer websites.  I certainly don't have the experience to recognize symptoms and troubleshoot that time in the field gets you.  

I've purchased and collected tools over time and watch for deals on tools I'd like to get next.  The biggest expense was the vacuum pump ($300), then the digital micron Guage ($189), the scale ($149), gauges and hose$ ($139), used Snap-On leak detector ($100), R134a supply ($129 shipped), flush kit ($40), solvent ($15), vacuum pump oil ($12), and PAG OIL ($15).

I would definitely say it was DIY as no one helped me or showed me how to do any aspect of this job including how to get the front bumper assembly off which was a 1-1/2 hour pain in the ass to figure out.
Link Posted: 4/13/2015 12:01:52 AM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I flushed the system with a solvent pressurized with my shop air.  All but the compressor and expansion valve were flushed clean.  I drained the compressor of all the  oil gravity would get out overnight.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Why add oil?  Did the oil in the system leak out?  Honestly I have only charged new systems and really always wondered about the oil issue.


I have that same IR air compressor.


I have done several systems with HF gauges and vacuum pump.  They work just fine.  Sometimes you can get can R134 under $10 on sale at Wally or the 99cent store. The system I do use less than two cans.

I flushed the system with a solvent pressurized with my shop air.  All but the compressor and expansion valve were flushed clean.  I drained the compressor of all the  oil gravity would get out overnight.




Is that a nitrogen tank and regulator?  Where did you get it and how much $$$?
Link Posted: 4/13/2015 1:42:19 AM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:




Is that a nitrogen tank and regulator?  Where did you get it and how much $$$?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Why add oil?  Did the oil in the system leak out?  Honestly I have only charged new systems and really always wondered about the oil issue.


I have that same IR air compressor.


I have done several systems with HF gauges and vacuum pump.  They work just fine.  Sometimes you can get can R134 under $10 on sale at Wally or the 99cent store. The system I do use less than two cans.

I flushed the system with a solvent pressurized with my shop air.  All but the compressor and expansion valve were flushed clean.  I drained the compressor of all the  oil gravity would get out overnight.




Is that a nitrogen tank and regulator?  Where did you get it and how much $$$?


Yes, Uniweld RHP400 - $58.55 on Amazon.com.
60ft3 Nitrogen tank and nitrogen charge - $224.56 from local Airgas branch.
Link Posted: 4/13/2015 1:53:02 AM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Why add oil?  Did the oil in the system leak out?  Honestly I have only charged new systems and really always wondered about the oil issue.


I have that same IR air compressor.


I have done several systems with HF gauges and vacuum pump.  They work just fine.  Sometimes you can get can R134 under $10 on sale at Wally or the 99cent store. The system I do use less than two cans.
View Quote


I've helped other people out with so many of their projects using a crappy compressor that I decided I would spend the money to get a nicer one that would never leave me wanting for air.  I spent almost as much money for the two air line branches.  Regulators, filters, driers, couplers, over pressure valves, automatic drain solenoid and timer, and air hoses.  Then just as much in all the air tools.
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