Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Posted: 11/27/2014 12:22:06 PM EDT
I have 79 ford f250 custom crew cab that has some problems. The rear drivers side door will open, but you need 2-3 men to get it to close. I haven't had the door open for about 2 years so I can't tell you if something looks broke or anything. (In order to get it closed we have to push on the side of the truck like you're trying to flip it over on the passenger side, and then slam the daylights out of it) There are kits I can buy to rebuild the door but I don't want to open it just to find out I can't fix it so now it's stuck open. The door has no dents and looks like it sets in the cab square. Can anyone give me a clue as to what could be wrong?

Also the trucks  original 4 speed has been taken out and replaced with a 5 speed from a chevy. This is all the info I have on the trans but I would like to know more. It's bolted to the original 6.6l 400 and the ruck is rw drive so no transfer case. Can anybody give me a guess on what trans this might be? I want to know because I plan on building the engine for a little more power and not want to worry about the transmission not be able to handle it.

Now on to the motor, I've got the original 400 in there and although it does have a little pep, I'd like to get more out of it. Right now it has a edelbrock 4 barrel and a weiand intake. I've read these motors have pretty low combustion ratios so I guess getting that up would be the best way to improve power. Ive already found a high performance CAM, but I'm stuck on what pistons and what to get the heads milled to. I don't want to get the ratio too high and have to run it on 93, 91 at the most but yet again I don't know what compression height or how big the compression chamber should be. Sorry about the rambling and poorly worded questions, I'm having a hard even knowing what questions to ask.

Meant to say cam instead of crankshaft, now you really no how big of a newb I am


Sorry no pics, I don't own a camera or know how to post pics, I also realize there are whole forums dedicated to ford trucks but I figured I'd ask you guys first.
Link Posted: 11/27/2014 1:34:46 PM EDT
[#1]
The door problem might be as simple as lubing up the hinges and latch to re-aligning the door or replacing the hinges.  For some reason I was thinking mine had hinge bushings you could replace as well but not sure.

Don't have an answer on the transmission.  I'm assuming they would have had to use a special adapter to mate the Chevy tranny to the 400.

Here are some links for building the Ford 400.  These might help answer some of your questions and give you some ideas.

Tim Meyers Specializes in Ford 400 builds.

351M/400 Performance build

Hot Rod Ford 406 Engine Build

FordMuscle 351M/400
Link Posted: 11/27/2014 2:05:23 PM EDT
[#2]
As far as the 351/400M engines go, the camshaft is first thing to be addressed. When installed from the factory, they are "degreed" (indexed) to provide low end torque, not top end HP. There are aftermarket cams/gears to correct this which will liven up the engine. Then on to intake, carb and headers.
ETA --
The next best thing you can do for your engine is to install a better camshaft and valve train. The 78 & 79 351M/400 used a retarded camshaft and timing chain to meet stringent pollution standards (see Dispelling the Myths & Untruths surrounding the 351M/400) from the factory. The stock cam and timing chain are, for lack of better words, pure unadulterated garbage. Fortunately, there are many aftermarket companies that offer high-performance cams & timing chains designed for the 351C and the 351M/400. I recommend using one of the newer dual-profile or roller camshafts available from companies such as Crane Cams and Comp Cams.  They are very expensive, but you would not believe the benefits you will receive from your engine with one of the newer types of cams available today. However, ANY quality aftermarket camshaft kit will be a SIGNIFICANT improvement over the stock cam and timing chain.

Quoted from the 351/400 Performance Build Up link above.
Link Posted: 11/27/2014 2:26:19 PM EDT
[#3]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


The door problem might be as simple as lubing up the hinges and latch to re-aligning the door or replacing the hinges.  For some reason I was thinking mine had hinge bushings you could replace as well but not sure.



Don't have an answer on the transmission.  I'm assuming they would have had to use a special adapter to mate the Chevy tranny to the 400.



Here are some links for building the Ford 400.  These might help answer some of your questions and give you some ideas.



Tim Meyers Specializes in Ford 400 builds.



351M/400 Performance build



Hot Rod Ford 406 Engine Build



FordMuscle 351M/400
View Quote




Tagging for the '78 F-250 in my garage with a 400 in it.



 

Link Posted: 11/27/2014 3:03:21 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
 Ive already found a high performance crank, but I'm stuck on what pistons and what to get the heads milled to. I don't want to get the ratio too high and have to run it on 93, 91 at the most but yet again I don't know what compression height or how big the compression chamber should be. .
View Quote

The first question is..  What is your axle gear ratio?  Not enough gear is going to give you sluggish acceleration especially with a tall tire.   You have nothing to gain by getting a different crank.  It would be a waste of money.  Badger Pistons is supposed to make a flat top.
Link Posted: 11/27/2014 8:09:07 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

The first question is..  What is your axle gear ratio?  Not enough gear is going to give you sluggish acceleration especially with a tall tire.   You have nothing to gain by getting a different crank.  It would be a waste of money.  Badger Pistons is supposed to make a flat top.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
 Ive already found a high performance crank, but I'm stuck on what pistons and what to get the heads milled to. I don't want to get the ratio too high and have to run it on 93, 91 at the most but yet again I don't know what compression height or how big the compression chamber should be. .

The first question is..  What is your axle gear ratio?  Not enough gear is going to give you sluggish acceleration especially with a tall tire.   You have nothing to gain by getting a different crank.  It would be a waste of money.  Badger Pistons is supposed to make a flat top.


Vin decoder said I have a 3.54 ratio dana 60 with a ls diff. It's got ok acceleration now, more than most trucks and cars that aren't built up. I'm just looking for a little bit more hp and more torque. I don't really know why though. I don't own a trailer and the heaviest thing I have is the trick itself. Kinda just wanting a hot little truck that can jump off intersections oh crap meant to say cam. I will update op sorry.
Link Posted: 11/27/2014 8:51:16 PM EDT
[#6]
For cams Crane grinds some low rpm idle to 4500 rpm torque cams for Fords . I have used them in 2 different builds , They are solid for a truck needing more power Here is your cam H-192/2667-2S-14
Link Posted: 11/27/2014 9:39:22 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
For cams Crane grinds some low rpm idle to 4500 rpm torque cams for Fords . I have used them in 2 different builds , They are solid for a truck needing more power Here is your cam H-192/2667-2S-14
View Quote


Cranes website says that cam is advised for use with a 8.75 comp ratio and lower, Which as I understand it isn't much higher than stock. I was hoping to get 9.1, maybe 9.3 max but I think 9.3 would be higher than I want. Also what about hydraulic rollers? One of the above articles suggests installing rollers along with a new cam. Could I have my original heads machined for this? And if so how much should that cost approximately?

Thank you guys for all your help, I really appreciate it.
Link Posted: 11/28/2014 10:04:37 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Also what about hydraulic rollers? One of the above articles suggests installing rollers along with a new cam. Could I have my original heads machined for this? And if so how much should that cost approximately?.
View Quote

No machining necessary..  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-36806-16/overview/
.
.
.
I am guessing that if you wanted it machined that it would be less than $200.
Link Posted: 11/28/2014 9:12:03 PM EDT
[#9]
Wow you guys really are awesome, thank you for all your help and expertise!
Link Posted: 12/18/2014 10:46:48 PM EDT
[#10]
New Process 435 was the original "granny low" 4 speed. http://classicbroncos.com/tech/np435-4-speed-manual-transmission-guide
I had a Crain "Fireball" cam in my 400, it would break valve springs of revved over 5,000rpm
The Edelbrock/Weiand set up is just fine.
Oil pressure was always on the low end of those motors; high pressure/volume pump is worth the few bucks they cost.
The 351M/400 was a heavy duty engine (of sorts) Ford stuffed it into most of their car and trucks (seemingly more so than 351W or 302)
wasn't much of a "high performance" engine, but one that would chug along day after day....my Dad bought a '79 Bronco in '81 that was a lease turn-in: had right at 30,000 miles and still original (factory painted) oil filter on it, and a serious rod-knock, so yea, they were a tough engine.
If I had it to do over; I'd find an old late 60's or 70's T-bird, Lincoln, or Mercury with either the 429 or 460 then transplant it. (Use the motor mounts and frame mounts from the car for the truck.) More power, more options than the 351M/400 aka "Cleveland"
Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top