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Posted: 10/9/2014 1:42:34 AM EDT
[#1]
How much would a used engine be to swap if it ended up being more then that?
How much do they go for in good condition with same miles you're looking at? |
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Posted: 10/9/2014 1:44:49 AM EDT
[#2]
Bad idea if water has contaminated the oil and compromised the crank bearings.
If 950.00+ the potential cost of a full on rebuild still places the car in bargain to you territory, then why not. |
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Posted: 10/9/2014 4:00:29 AM EDT
[#3]
My 328 has the same engine (besides a couple tiny differences) and a head gasket isn't too bad of a job if you know what you're doing, just time consuming. I'm sure you could find a used engine for around $1k complete though, people are always doing swaps and selling the old motor.
The plastic in the cooling system is a weak point in BMW's from this era, I'm betting the head gasket popped from overheating. The whole cooling system should also be replaced, $5-600. Just hope that the head isn't cracked or warped. I'm not sure if I'd buy it, there's nothing more expensive than a cheap BMW. If the owner neglected his cooling system maintenance (complete replacement every 100k), just think of everything else he didn't take care of. |
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Posted: 10/9/2014 6:37:45 AM EDT
[#4]
What does the rest of the car look like in the pictures? It may be worth it just in parts alone if you get frustrated trying to fix it.
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Posted: 10/9/2014 7:07:14 AM EDT
[#5]
I had a 91 525 which also was known for cooling problems (and mine had them) often cracking the aluminum head, which isn't exactly cheap to replace and the car in general was a basket case. It was great fun to drive - inline 6, manual transmission, rwd, lowered . . . Unfortunately, it had a ton of problem. Bought it for $1800 (I think), put about $1200 into it to pass inspection, and hundreds more in the next couple months. When i got rid of it, it needed a head & gasket, blower motor, suspension bushings, tires, a control arm, rear window, plugs, perhaps a coil or two, and misc other stuff. It just wasn't worth fixing at that point.
Despite that, I'd be tempted to Fo. |
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Posted: 10/9/2014 7:53:36 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What does the rest of the car look like in the pictures? It may be worth it just in parts alone if you get frustrated trying to fix it. I went and saw it in person last night and it honestly doesn't look that bad. There are two small rust sports on the car, otherwise for a 16 yo car, it looks pretty good.
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Posted: 10/9/2014 10:35:40 PM EDT
[#7]
I went and looked at it again today. There were a few leaks here and there that could easily be fixed. I managed to talk the guy down to $700, so what the hell, what's the worst that could happen?
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Posted: 10/10/2014 2:50:43 AM EDT
[#8]
I think you're safe at $700. Even if you do get in over your head, you should be able to part it out and recoup your money.
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Posted: 10/11/2014 10:41:00 AM EDT
[#9]
For that price I'd be happy to drive it until it broke in such a way that I couldn't (or couldn't afford to get) fixed.
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Posted: 10/11/2014 12:13:53 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: For that price I'd be happy to drive it until it broke in such a way that I couldn't (or couldn't afford to get) fixed. That's what I'm thinking. I'll be trailering it home tomorrow morning. The more I read up, the more I think it might not actually be a head gasket issue. The E39 is widely known for cooling issues, so hopefully it was just over heated because of something faulty and not the actual head gasket.
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Posted: 10/11/2014 7:53:55 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The more I read up, the more I think it might not actually be a head gasket issue. The E39 is widely known for cooling issues, so hopefully it was just over heated because of something faulty and not the actual head gasket. That M52 engine reeeeally doesn't like to be overheated, I would still do the usual head gasket checks (compression test, cooling system pressure test, etc). Wouldn't hurt. Overheated mine when my water pump pulley broke (they're plastic, aluminum replacements are available). I drove it maybe a minute after it broke while thinking "what the f*** was that sound", noticed the temp in the red, then shut it down. Anyway, I needed to put in a new gasket even though it was run hot for under a minute. |
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Posted: 10/12/2014 4:56:56 PM EDT
[#12]
I did some poking around today and the oil doesn't look milky, the anti-freeze looks fine, there's decent compression on all the cylinders, and the spark plugs aren't bleached white. There appears to be a coolant leak coming from the water pump area, but I'll address that later. The problem is though I can't get it to stay running to diagnose it further. It'll start, sputter a bit then die. If I give it gas as I'm starting it, it'll rev up, sometimes backfire a time or two then die as well. Any thoughts on what to start looking at to trouble shoot the issue?   |
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Posted: 10/12/2014 5:49:49 PM EDT
[#13]
Check engine light on? How's the fuel pressure? There's a schrader valve at the front of the fuel rail.
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Posted: 10/12/2014 6:29:00 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Check engine light on? How's the fuel pressure? There's a schrader valve at the front of the fuel rail. Yes, that CEL is on (it was even blinking at one point). The dash lights up like a Christmas tree  I have no idea on the fuel pressure. I don't have any gauges to check it. I did find that it'll run if I disconnect the MAF, but it still pops a bit, so I'm thinking it might be missing or have a bad coil pack or two. I need to pick up a OBD2 scanner this week and pull the codes.
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Posted: 10/12/2014 7:40:48 PM EDT
[#15]
LS Swap and call it a day.
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Posted: 10/12/2014 8:14:14 PM EDT
[#16]
It's been a while since I owned the 91 525, but I seem to recall some similar symptoms when my fuel pump started failing (ie unplugging the maf produced better results). I grabbed a cheap HF fuel pressure tester (about $30) and discovered my fuel pressure was about 1/3 to 1/2 of what it should be - enough to spray fuel everywhere when loosening lines, but not enough to properly run the engine.
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Posted: 10/17/2014 5:22:50 PM EDT
[#17]
After taking a look at it this week, the car does look too bad. So far it needs:
Scan tool turned up this. My guess is the Crank position sensor is causing the misfire and the MAP is causing the over fueling.  |
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Posted: 10/17/2014 9:35:18 PM EDT
[#18]
Check for a vacuum leak (smoke test).
Replace crank sensor. Start it up. Then pull intake, do water pump and thermostat, valley pan, cross over tube, and associated Orings and any coolant hose you can touch or see, replace over flow bottle and think hard about the radiator.
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Posted: 10/17/2014 10:39:25 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
LS Swap and call it a day. I came to post this |
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Posted: 10/17/2014 11:05:51 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Check for a vacuum leak (smoke test). Replace crank sensor. Start it up. Then pull intake, do water pump and thermostat, valley pan, cross over tube, and associated Orings and any coolant hose you can touch or see, replace over flow bottle and think hard about the radiator. Definitely no valley pan on a straight 6
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Posted: 10/18/2014 8:14:29 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Replace crank sensor. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Check for a vacuum leak (smoke test). Replace crank sensor. Start it up. Then pull intake, do water pump and thermostat, valley pan, cross over tube, and associated Orings and any coolant hose you can touch or see, replace over flow bottle and think hard about the radiator. Definitely no valley pan on a straight 6 |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 12:06:01 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
LS Swap and call it a day. For a DD? You underestimate BMW's ability to make an engine. LS engines have their issues as well, they are not perfect. And as far as power potential goes on a production factory engine, some BMW I6's would shame an LS engine. The N54 (found in 2007-2010 335's) is currently at 829whp 781wtq , all factory internals. Guys have been running 700+whp as daily drivers for a couple years now. The community hasn't found the "limit" yet on that engine. The new S55 found in the new M3/M4 is an even stronger engine from the factory and will for sure see 1000+ whp as the platform matures/ages and people start to push it. |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 12:21:10 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: For a DD? You underestimate BMW's ability to make an engine. LS engines have their issues as well, they are not perfect. And as far as power potential goes on a production factory engine, some BMW I6's would shame an LS engine. The N54 (found in 2007-2010 335's) is currently at 829whp 781wtq , all factory internals. Guys have been running 700+whp as daily drivers for a couple years now. The community hasn't found the "limit" yet on that engine. The new S55 found in the new M3/M4 is an even stronger engine from the factory and will for sure see 1000+ whp as the platform matures/ages and people start to push it. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: LS Swap and call it a day. For a DD? You underestimate BMW's ability to make an engine. LS engines have their issues as well, they are not perfect. And as far as power potential goes on a production factory engine, some BMW I6's would shame an LS engine. The N54 (found in 2007-2010 335's) is currently at 829whp 781wtq , all factory internals. Guys have been running 700+whp as daily drivers for a couple years now. The community hasn't found the "limit" yet on that engine. The new S55 found in the new M3/M4 is an even stronger engine from the factory and will for sure see 1000+ whp as the platform matures/ages and people start to push it. Now that I have actually read this thread, this would be the M52 engine.
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Posted: 10/18/2014 12:30:55 PM EDT
[#24]
All e39 and e46's are notorious for bad fuel pumps, fuel pump relays, and every thing coolant related. The parts are all plastic and brittle every 60k.
I didn't see any lean codes posted, but a crank no start is a red flag for the fuel pump. I would put a gauge on the fuel rail. Should be close to 55psi. And if fuel pressure is ok I would swap out the crank sensor because of your codes. Check out Bavauto.com for parts. |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 12:35:00 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: All e39 and e46's are notorious for bad fuel pumps, fuel pump relays, and every thing coolant related. The parts are all plastic and brittle every 60k. I didn't see any lean codes posted, but a crank no start is a red flag for the fuel pump. I would put a gauge on the fuel rail. Should be close to 55psi. The engine will start and die. It will start and run with the MAF disconnected, but backfire a bit.
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Posted: 10/18/2014 12:49:24 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Now that I have actually read this thread, this would be the M52 engine. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
LS Swap and call it a day. For a DD? You underestimate BMW's ability to make an engine. LS engines have their issues as well, they are not perfect. And as far as power potential goes on a production factory engine, some BMW I6's would shame an LS engine. The N54 (found in 2007-2010 335's) is currently at 829whp 781wtq , all factory internals. Guys have been running 700+whp as daily drivers for a couple years now. The community hasn't found the "limit" yet on that engine. The new S55 found in the new M3/M4 is an even stronger engine from the factory and will for sure see 1000+ whp as the platform matures/ages and people start to push it. Now that I have actually read this thread, this would be the M52 engine. Yup, good engine. OP are signed up to a BMW forum yet? |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 5:47:33 PM EDT
[#27]
I seem to have found my crankshaft sensor problem. It doesn't have a crank sensor....  |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 7:12:05 PM EDT
[#28]
Ahhh the things you find on a car with unknown history. Good luck OP!
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Posted: 10/18/2014 7:38:12 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ahhh the things you find on a car with unknown history. Good luck OP! Turns out I was looking in the wrong place  BMW changed engines 9/98 and mine was built in 6/98. All the DIY's I was reading were for the later generation of motor.
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Posted: 10/18/2014 10:22:52 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yup, good engine. OP are signed up to a BMW forum yet? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: LS Swap and call it a day. For a DD? You underestimate BMW's ability to make an engine. LS engines have their issues as well, they are not perfect. And as far as power potential goes on a production factory engine, some BMW I6's would shame an LS engine. The N54 (found in 2007-2010 335's) is currently at 829whp 781wtq , all factory internals. Guys have been running 700+whp as daily drivers for a couple years now. The community hasn't found the "limit" yet on that engine. The new S55 found in the new M3/M4 is an even stronger engine from the factory and will for sure see 1000+ whp as the platform matures/ages and people start to push it. Now that I have actually read this thread, this would be the M52 engine. Yup, good engine. OP are signed up to a BMW forum yet? I signed up on bimmerfest, any better ones out there? I'm kind of surprised how little traffic it seems to get.
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Posted: 10/18/2014 11:01:09 PM EDT
[#31]
Try 5post/e39 post also.
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Posted: 10/19/2014 10:48:34 AM EDT
[#32]
i just bought a 98 528i sport with 225k miles in great running condition. i paid more than you tho.
im a former master certified mercedes benz technician who now writes service for audi. the person i bought it from is a master certified bmw technician, who ive known since i was 5. the car came with extra parts and i have pretty much free diag and repair labor available to me. mine needed a windshield and a window regulator for a rear window (very common on these). i also need an audio amplifier, but right now m commute s less than 2 miles each way so thats not a priority, the car does need a few other minor things, but they are things i can live with for now. i just got out of an expensive truck as a dd, so im enjoying the cheap commuter...that being said i have no delusions, something could fail and the repair could not be worth undertaking due to cost. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 3:09:08 AM EDT
[#33]
16 year old 4 door German car with minor rust that doesn't run and you ask what is the worst that could happen...
think about parting it out. even it did run, there is always going to be several thousands more money to be spent. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 10:42:45 AM EDT
[#34]
Haha I think it missed a few oil changes.
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Posted: 10/21/2014 9:55:43 PM EDT
[#35]
I see vanos seals in your future.
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Posted: 10/22/2014 7:47:25 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I see vanos seals in your future. Vanos seals don't really look like that hard of a job. Though I had a hell of a time getting the old radiator out and the new fan shroud on the new one  Got it completely tore down this evening. Still waiting on a few parts to put it back together. So far I'm replacing: All filters and fluids Valve cover gasket Oil filter housing gasket spark plugs plug wires thermostat housing (replacing the plastic one with an aluminum one) radiator MAF Crank Position sensor radio LCD ribbon (few pixels out making) driver's door panel Other things to do: Polish Head lights Clean interior and exterior   |
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Posted: 10/27/2014 5:17:17 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I signed up on bimmerfest, any better ones out there? I'm kind of surprised how little traffic it seems to get. I'm on bimmerfest too but I only hang out in the e36 and e34 sections. Bimmerforums is a lot more active but seems to be filled with more asshats, I'm only on there for its huge classifieds section. |
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Posted: 10/27/2014 5:20:58 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I seem to have found my crankshaft sensor problem. It doesn't have a crank sensor.... <a href="http://s43.photobucket.com/user/unclemoak/media/20141018_161606.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/20141018_161606.jpg</a> Yeah that'll do it 
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Posted: 10/27/2014 7:08:50 AM EDT
[#39]
Managed to get it running and drivable over the weekend. When I initially put everything back together it was still missing a bit, but I realized I didn't tighten done the valve cover all the way so oil leaking into the plug hole was likely causing the miss. So addressing that it ran a lot better.
Now I have to figure out the brake wear, ABS, ASC light trifecta (most likely one of the front wheel speed sensors because the rear control the speedo and cruise which work fine) that is causing it not to shift out of first gear. Who knew you could do 60 mph in first
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Posted: 10/28/2014 4:42:31 PM EDT
[#40]
Getting it handled, GJ man!
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Posted: 10/28/2014 5:44:27 PM EDT
[#41]
All that room in that engine bay......... needs..... LS
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Vanos seals don't really look like that hard of a job. Though I had a hell of a time getting the old radiator out and the new fan shroud on the new one
Got it completely tore down this evening. Still waiting on a few parts to put it back together. So far I'm replacing: All filters and fluids Valve cover gasket Oil filter housing gasket spark plugs plug wires thermostat housing (replacing the plastic one with an aluminum one) radiator MAF Crank Position sensor radio LCD ribbon (few pixels out making) driver's door panel Other things to do: Polish Head lights Clean interior and exterior <a href="http://s43.photobucket.com/user/unclemoak/media/20141022_165059.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/20141022_165059.jpg</a> <a href="http://s43.photobucket.com/user/unclemoak/media/20141022_165115.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/20141022_165115.jpg</a> Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I see vanos seals in your future. Vanos seals don't really look like that hard of a job. Though I had a hell of a time getting the old radiator out and the new fan shroud on the new one
Got it completely tore down this evening. Still waiting on a few parts to put it back together. So far I'm replacing: All filters and fluids Valve cover gasket Oil filter housing gasket spark plugs plug wires thermostat housing (replacing the plastic one with an aluminum one) radiator MAF Crank Position sensor radio LCD ribbon (few pixels out making) driver's door panel Other things to do: Polish Head lights Clean interior and exterior <a href="http://s43.photobucket.com/user/unclemoak/media/20141022_165059.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/20141022_165059.jpg</a> <a href="http://s43.photobucket.com/user/unclemoak/media/20141022_165115.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/20141022_165115.jpg</a> |
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Posted: 10/29/2014 10:15:23 PM EDT
[#42]
Your thread reminded me of this:
$4,000 E39 M5 - What's the worst that can happen? |
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Posted: 10/30/2014 11:15:00 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryThose jalopnick articles are What inspired all of this  Though I'm not entirely sure if I'm going to keep this or sell it. I went to pull the front wheel sensors the other night and one sensor broke off in the knuckle and the other broke a bolt off in the knuckle
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Posted: 10/30/2014 11:16:30 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Those jalopnick articles are What inspired all of this
Though I'm not entirely sure if I'm going to keep this or sell it. I went to pull the front wheel sensors the other night and one sensor broke off in the knuckle and the other broke a bolt off in the knuckle
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Those jalopnick articles are What inspired all of this
Though I'm not entirely sure if I'm going to keep this or sell it. I went to pull the front wheel sensors the other night and one sensor broke off in the knuckle and the other broke a bolt off in the knuckle
Buy yourself some Kroil. Spray it one whatever before you start wrenching on it to help avoid broken fasteners. It's fantastic stuff. It's also an excellent bore cleaner. |
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Posted: 11/16/2014 1:14:55 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Buy yourself some Kroil. Spray it one whatever before you start wrenching on it to help avoid broken fasteners. It's fantastic stuff. It's also an excellent bore cleaner. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Those jalopnick articles are What inspired all of this Though I'm not entirely sure if I'm going to keep this or sell it. I went to pull the front wheel sensors the other night and one sensor broke off in the knuckle and the other broke a bolt off in the knuckle Buy yourself some Kroil. Spray it one whatever before you start wrenching on it to help avoid broken fasteners. It's fantastic stuff. It's also an excellent bore cleaner. I finally got the wheel sensors fixed and new brakes put on it. It's starting to shape up. Now I just have to track down the vacuum leak to smooth out the idle and I should be good.  |
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Posted: 11/16/2014 5:50:50 PM EDT
[#46]
In order of how likely: Intake boots, CCV system, and valve cover. I am not including any of the little vacuum lines.
Part 9, 6 and 7 are possible since they are before the vacuum switch.  It honestly might be worth your time to have a shop smoke test the engine to take the time factor and the guess factor out.
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Posted: 11/16/2014 9:36:37 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: In order of how likely: Intake boots, CCV system, and valve cover. I am not including any of the little vacuum lines. Part 9, 6 and 7 are possible since they are before the vacuum switch. It honestly might be worth your time to have a shop smoke test the engine to take the time factor and the guess factor out. I considered having a local shop doing a smoke test. Might see if they can do one when I take it to a local independent to check out the airbag light. I have a new hose from the intake boot to the IAC on the way. When I initially took the IAC off to inspect/clean it, I noticed it was in pretty bad shape, so hopefully that helps. |
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