This is my 1st run with the mobil 1 oil in my fx35. The bottle says that it's guaranteed 15k oil change intervals. I used an XG Fram filter which also guarantees 15k change intervals. So me being the skeptic, I dropped the oil and changed the filter just now at 11,102 Miles. Main reason, this ride sees 85% city and 15% hwy. This is also yields a whopping 17.2 mpg avg, .

So, the sample will be sent out tomorrow to Blackstone and as soon as they send me my report back I will post it up for all of the world to see here. I have a feeling that the oil should be able to go the 15k because the oil that came out looked decent and smelled fine.

I will also post it in this original post.



It confirms that my air filters were filthy.

am curious about this......more dubious about the fram filter than the oil.

You don't like Fram?

I was unaware you could do that. What are you looking for in the results and what is typical?

I just had the motor in my car rebuilt and would like to "track" changes with the oil changes.....if that's possible.

Google "blackstone labs". They have some sample reports you can look at to see what they are like. I believe you can order the kit for free, then pay 25$ when you send it in to have them test it.

Edit: meant to quote donnier32...

Hell no.  You might as well stuff a coke can with used kleenex and screw it onto the filter housing.  It would probably filter better than a Fram too.

fram XG filers are ok to use filters. its the orange ones that you stay away from. google it

royal purple filters are awesome x87.. just  a heads up

I'm due for a change in a few miles. I actually have a Fram sitting in the center console but I'll go ahead and see if I can do an exchange at the store.
Arfcom's never steered me wrong yet.

Wix filters are damn good.

I have used the XG or equivalent of fram in all my gassers since I could drive. Hasn't steered me wrong yet. I do not use the orange ones though.

All my filters are wix.

 

Wix, or OEM for me.  

Ops

When I was still in the auto business I ran one of those 10 Min Oil change shops. We used Castrol Oil and Fram filters.
We installed thousands of Fram filters and never had a single failure or filter related problem using them.
We did however have to buy 2 engines due to filter failures. One was a BMW 320I that blew the filter can open. It was a Mann filter. Mann told us it was a known BMW problem and would not stand behind it.
The other was a Toyota Corolla if I remember correctly.
We had bought a case of filters from the local dealer because we were having a hard time getting the aftermarket one.
The OEM filter used an O ring  seal. The seal dislodged during the install and was pinched. It failed as the owner was driving home dumping all the oil out past the failed O ring. He continued his drive home after his errands with the oil light on. The engine locked up before he could get in his driveway.

what kind of cars do you own?

I'll be sending in a sample too with an oil change next week. Only 3k miles on the oil, but it's 9 months old.

OEM filters for me too. Mahle or Mann. They're actually cheaper at the dealer (with BMWCCA discount) than the cheap filters at Walmart.

I've used Fram filters for years, TG and XG.  Depending on the vehicle I change the oil/filters either every 3,000 miles (regular oil in the old Z28s) or at 6,000 miles (Mobil 1 in all the newer vehicles).

The worst looking filters when removed are the factory recommended filters for my Hyundai Genesis Coupe I buy from the dealership just to make sure they won't crap on my if I have engine issues in the next 7 years.  When I remove them, they looked flattened/crushed in some areas of the pleats, spread apart in others, and flimsy as hell.  I'd like to use Fram filters in the car as I bought 2 when I got the car and after hearing of the warranty BS from one of the sales guys I just started buying filters from the dealer.  The Fram filters are sitting on the shelf in the garage but they sure do look better/stronger than the factory filters.

Time will tell.

Change your oil when you want to.  I feel good about changing at 6,000 miles and its my money and my car/truck/jeep, etc.  I put 250,000 miles on my 1990 F150 4WD and never had to have anything done to the engine/powertrain (wish I'd kept that old truck, it ran like a top).

M1008, m1009, 2011 jk, 2006 & 09 x5

 

I am very interested.  

I run Mobil 1 in my 4 cylinder Honda and V8 Yukon.  I change it around 9000 miles.

M1008, m1009, 2011 jk, 2006 & 09 x5

 

in for the results

I have been experimenting with different brands/weights & filter types for 6 years/104K miles on my commuter car (08 2.5l Altima coupe), using Blackstone labs for the testing. I have never wore at any synthetic oil going to 15k. All the premium filters seem to perform adequately (I've used Wix, M1, Pure One, whatever is on sale). The one conclusion I've come to is that modern synthetic oils & premium filters are excellent & should keep your engine in tip top shape for many miles!

Everyone loves to hate on FRAM filters because some dudes took them apart and demonstrated the difference in materials between FRAM and other filters.  Things like paper/cardboard endcaps instead of metal, sq footage of media, bypass valve composition, number of holes and size, anti-drain valve composition, etc...etc..

Then the internet boards went crazy with speculations on these observations, of which filters are "better" with no data to back up any claims.  

Later, this led to a massive amount of internet mechanics taking their own filters apart, after changing them, to find torn media and damage to the filters, and these anomalies were spread across all kinds of brands, even including brands that were previously worshipped by all the FRAM haters.


I LOVE it when the dorks in the Hondas and Acura forums start hating on FRAM, and state they only use OEM.   Guess what?  The OEM filter that Honda uses, the 15400-PLM-A02, is made by Honeywell, the SAME company that's makes the FRAM filters.  In your Honda dealership, they even have a picture of one of these taken apart, extolling the virtues of how well it is made and why its the filter of choice.


I also love it when people get so bent outa shape about this stuff, and then trade in their vehicles every 4 years or 60,000 miles.  The oil and filter used doesn't even matter for people who aren't planning on keeping the engine going over 200,000 miles.  Any old cheap ass dino oil will keep todays engines running that long.



I change our oil and filter in the wife's vehicles, when the maintenance minder tells us to, which is typically around 10,000 to 12,000 miles.

I change the oil in my truck once a year, whenever I get it inspected.  There is a place down the street that knocks $10 off the oil change when you do both.  That works out to about 10,000 miles on the engine.  It has 150k on it and doesn't burn a drop.  So I guess that is working.


All that said, I will be interested in the results.  I bet they are like most Blackstone results with full synthetic oils, they could have gone a lot longer.

I wonder how long it will be before we change the oil every 50,000 miles.

I don't think a single check will tell you what you are looking for.

typically it takes a couple, plus a clean sample to give you an idea of what is going on.

they tell you wear indicators vs can I keep using the oil for x number of miles.

and of course the additive pack.
but you need reference points for the data to mean anything.

how much is in it new.
how much iron after 5k miles, 10k miles, new oil and again at 5k, 10k etc..
did iron go up, stay the same, start going down when I hit 50k miles on the car, etc..

actually when you send in the sample you tell them what engine you have how many miles it has and any other things you are doing to the engine, Additives, to fuel/oil after market things etc. What they then do is take your analysis and compare it to all the other engines just like yours that has similar mileage usage etc. Then as you keep sending your samples in they get more info from your engine and compare it against the other samples.

For a gasser, it helps but you can buy a whole new engine from the salvage yard for cheap. Or rebuild it for not that much. Regarding diesel engines, if something in the oil shows up that isn't suppose to be there, I can then start to inspect the engine to see what is the problem. That's where they will save you a ton of money. New engine for my 6.4 from black stone with studs is going to be around 8-9k. Plus labor to put the thing in there. Along with a turbo reseal and various other things you would do while the cab is off.

I sent in a sample on my new to me truck a while back.  everything came back good.  I was mainly worried about fuel in oil.  

Short OCI are one of the biggest scams in any industry. I have about 16k on my run of M1 EP with M1-209 filter, be changing it and sending a sample this week. I took a sample last time at 11k and sent it to both Blackstone and OAI and they were both surprisingly close even the TBN. I have a 2008 V8 4 Runner.

With a bypass system you can extend oil changes for 30k+ but the system is a bit complicated for POV applications.

I agree with you. You would be surprised at how long regular old dino oil can go.

update in OP.

Interesting. Did you use the SN spec? I had 154 ppm Na after 11k and thought it a bit high given its not in the EP add pack.

ETA: what was your previous fill?

I've always heard that, and wonder how much of it is true.  I used either the orange Fram or STP filters in my Camry, whichever was cheaper with the oil change package. Sold it with 284k on the odometer, and would be about a quart low at oil change time. I tried for 5k mile changes, but occasionally went 8-10k.  I know one car isn't much of a statistic, just find it interesting.

Never experienced the sludge issue that was prevalent with the 4-banger Camry, either.

Previous fill was what ever infiniti uses at their shops, but unfortunately I didn't run a sample on that oil. I am really not sure why the sodium is so high. Really interesting.

This is the Mobil 1 I am using.



If those sodium levels don't go to where the belong I am going to switch to royal purple.