Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel

Log In

A valid email is required.
Password is required.
Site Notices
Just making it up as I go.
Avatar
Bronze
  • Joined Jan 2008
  • Posts 1948
  • Location USA MN, USA
Offline Positive Feedback
Bronze
  • Joined Jan 2008
  • Posts 1948
  • Location USA MN, USA
Offline Positive Feedback
Posted: 2/5/2013 6:18:28 PM EST
I have a 1995 Saturn SL1 that left me stranded a few days ago. It has been running well since I bought it two months ago, but it suddenly quit on me.

I started it and let it warm up for a few minutes before hitting the road. I made it about two miles, and then I felt it lurch slightly (while driving). I dismissed that first one as being a bump in the road or something, then it did it again five seconds later. As I slowed down and pulled over to turn it around it lost all power.

Right now the car is hard to start and idles very rough. It will not stay running in gear without extra gas.

I changed the fuel filter, but that was no help.

I pulled the spark plug wires one at a time to check them, and one of them came apart with a reddish-brown puff at the spark plug. I then changed all four spark plugs and wires, but again, no help.

When I checked for codes, I got code 33 (MAP sensor voltage out of range-high) and code 34 (MAP sensor voltage out of range-low) at the same time. I've read that disconnecting the MAP sensor sends the system into a backup mode. I tried that, but again, no fix.

Is there anything I can do without throwing more parts at it? I'm hesitant to buy specialized test equipment, especially if it costs the same or more than that part I'm checking in the first place.
Nothing horrible was ever sold as a bad idea.
LATEBRA FACTUM
Avatar
Bronze
  • Joined Dec 2012
  • Posts 166
  • Location USA MO, USA
Offline Neutral Feedback
Bronze
  • Joined Dec 2012
  • Posts 166
  • Location USA MO, USA
Offline Neutral Feedback
NRAMilitary
Posted: 2/5/2013 6:42:51 PM EST
[Last Edit: 2/5/2013 6:44:04 PM EST by GT500]
Originally Posted By Gingerbreadman:
I have a 1995 Saturn SL1 that left me stranded a few days ago. It has been running well since I bought it two months ago, but it suddenly quit on me.

I started it and let it warm up for a few minutes before hitting the road. I made it about two miles, and then I felt it lurch slightly (while driving). I dismissed that first one as being a bump in the road or something, then it did it again five seconds later. As I slowed down and pulled over to turn it around it lost all power.

Right now the car is hard to start and idles very rough. It will not stay running in gear without extra gas.

I changed the fuel filter, but that was no help.

I pulled the spark plug wires one at a time to check them, and one of them came apart with a reddish-brown puff at the spark plug. I then changed all four spark plugs and wires, but again, no help.

When I checked for codes, I got code 33 (MAP sensor voltage out of range-high) and code 34 (MAP sensor voltage out of range-low) at the same time. I've read that disconnecting the MAP sensor sends the system into a backup mode. I tried that, but again, no fix.

Is there anything I can do without throwing more parts at it? I'm hesitant to buy specialized test equipment, especially if it costs the same or more than that part I'm checking in the first place.


Sounds like you may have a bad alternator. Go by AutoZone or another auto parts store and they can test it for you for free.
TRUE ART CONCEALS THE MEANS BY WHICH IT IS ACHIEVED
Just making it up as I go.
Avatar
Bronze
  • Joined Jan 2008
  • Posts 1949
  • Location USA MN, USA
Offline Positive Feedback
Bronze
  • Joined Jan 2008
  • Posts 1949
  • Location USA MN, USA
Offline Positive Feedback
Posted: 2/6/2013 7:39:14 AM EST
I bought a new coil pack and tried it in both positions, but it was no help. I had the engine running for about 10 seconds total. After that, I pulled the sparks plugs, and all four were wet and smelled like gas.
Nothing horrible was ever sold as a bad idea.
Spooooooon!
Avatar
Bronze
  • Joined Jan 2010
  • Posts 2368
  • Location USA WI, USA
Offline Positive Feedback
Bronze
  • Joined Jan 2010
  • Posts 2368
  • Location USA WI, USA
Offline Positive Feedback
Posted: 2/7/2013 5:49:35 AM EST
I think that year was throttle body injected on that motor correct?

I had a 93 - they were pretty simple if I recall from engine management/electronics perspective. I'd try replacing the alternator or testing it first (make sure you're getting proper voltage output) as a start.

Wish I could offer more. Look at SaturnFans.com - lots of really knowledgable folks there and huge resources to poke through.
DK-Prof: Professionals sleep inside freshly killed and steaming Tauntons.
Basic
  • Joined Feb 2007
  • Posts 332
  • Location USA USA
Offline Neutral Feedback
Basic
  • Joined Feb 2007
  • Posts 332
  • Location USA USA
Offline Neutral Feedback
Posted: 2/7/2013 5:00:31 PM EST
try over at SATURN FANS you can seach your symptoms without joining. I just bought a 99 and they have been very helpful with the issues I have had.
Basic
  • Joined Feb 2009
  • Posts 3134
  • Location USA NY, USA
Offline Neutral Feedback
Basic
  • Joined Feb 2009
  • Posts 3134
  • Location USA NY, USA
Offline Neutral Feedback
Posted: 2/8/2013 8:26:15 AM EST
[Last Edit: 2/8/2013 8:27:41 AM EST by Burntrubber87]
Do you have a DVOM?

Test alternator output

Then I would check for 5 volt reference at the MAP sensor and TPS Sensor while shaking the engine harness around. Then if possible to do a TPS sweep.

If you don't find anything there I would start looking at the wiring between the ECU and the MAP sensor/ TPS sensor.

Other things to consider are a vacuum leak. while idling spray some parts cleaner or starting fluid at the intake where it meets the head and around the back of it..basically all over except the actual filter. Listen for the idle to go up or down.

I'm not sure how but you could rule out a faulty EGR by disabling it somehow and going for a test drive.

Code 33
http://www.differentracing.com/tech_articles/dtc/33.html

Code 34
http://www.differentracing.com/tech_articles/dtc/34.html
Just making it up as I go.
Avatar
Bronze
  • Joined Jan 2008
  • Posts 1952
  • Location USA MN, USA
Offline Positive Feedback
Bronze
  • Joined Jan 2008
  • Posts 1952
  • Location USA MN, USA
Offline Positive Feedback
Posted: 2/9/2013 12:26:13 PM EST
It was the EGR valve itself. It was stuck wide open. The engine ran 100% better after I replaced the valve.
Nothing horrible was ever sold as a bad idea.
Top