yup. biggest problems i know of with these conversions are as follows

thanks, goal is a cheap toy with a removable top. wife wants a newer corvette (C5 or newer than 1997 model year), i've looked at C3 body styles (1968-1982) - i don't really want to spend more than about 5k out of pocket

I know in my area you can't find a Wrangler with stock running gear that isn't completely clapped out or has some type of major issue for 5k or less. Most guys that have invested the time and/or money into a V8 swap want even more(justified or not).

Lol, I had a '95 Wrangler. Had the 2.5L 5 speed manual but the clutch was 95% gone so you basically just kind of hoped you got the shift right, no top at all, no hardware for the top, no back seat, front seats were almost destroyed. Crappy 235/75 R 15 street tires, just the half doors no windows, broken windshield, crushed passenger fender and a spare that was rotted and couldn't get it off because it had a special key lug nut that was rusted on anyway..... I put it on Craigslist for $1500 and had a call within 10 minutes !!!!!!! Sold. I could have probably got $2500 if I had been a dick.

If you want an AX15 tranny to last behind a V8 you'll be limited to as much power as the 4.2l or 4.0l made. The NVG3550 is better, but not drastically so. Basically you'd have a Jeep with the power of an I6 and the fun of working on a V8 in a tiny engine compartment. Unless all you want to do is go fast on the street, the I6 will do a better job. And did I mention it's much easier to work on?

Take a good look at some FSJ's. 2 door Full Size Cherokees/J series trucks are GREAT Off-Road rigs. V8 power and factory Dana 44's. Mine will out climb my CJ/YJ Jeeps. FSJ for the win.

I'd love to drop a GM 5.3L in my TJ, but like the others have said, there's an expensive/right way to do it and the wrong/cheap way of doing it.

To do it properly you need the V8 with computer and wiring harness, new radiator, Advanced adaptors kit for t-case, new trans, probably beefier axles to handle additional weight/torque, new driveshafts, new coils/springs for the front, new motor mounts.

It's an expensive proposition; one I can't afford right now.

$5k isn't going to buy a contemporary Jeep (YJ and up) with proper V8 swap.


If you must have the V8, my suggestion OP, is to find a CJ with the AMC 304 in it. Repair/fix/rehab it as time and money allow.

I believe ill take my chances on a new under warranty 3.6 long before I would that boat anchor 3.8 or someone else's bastartized cross breed nightmare

[quote]Originally Posted By Krochus:


I believe ill take my chances on a new under warranty 3.6 long before I would that boat anchor 3.8 or someone else's bastartized cross breed nightmare

[/div]

Given those 2 choices I'd choose the same as you, but there's a 3rd option available - a TJ or YJ with the all but indestructible 4.0l. If you need more power than it puts out you're looking for a muscle car, not a Jeep. I'd even take a Nuttered & Team Rushed 4.2l over the 3.8l or 3.6l - which I have in my YJ (with Weber 32/36), at least until I get an SD33T in there.)

While a 4.7 swap or something can be done fairly easily, there's so much work involved with a 350 swap on a Wrangler that I would veer away.

And actually, if I needed a motor, I'd drop in a Golen 4.6 Stroker. Lots more power, and a drop-in conversion you almost can't screw up.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/51107_50X_PG.htm

What can the Pentastar do that the 4.0l can't? Go fast? I was able to exceed the speed limit on any road I drove on with my 4.0l TJ, and had no desire to do over 75mph. First of all, for the 5 months out of the year that my top & doors are off I'd get beat up by the wind. Secondly, a Jeep is just too fun to drive on the winding back roads to take it on the straight-line interstate. What does the Pentastar get for mileage? I got 17mpg highway and about 13 city with my 4.0l TJ. I get 17-18 highway and about 14 city with my 4.2l YJ (about 3000lb.) If I wanted to drive FAST I wouldn't buy a CJ, YJ, TJ, or JK. If mileage was that important to me I wouldn't buy a CJ, YJ, TJ, or JK. I have a 4.0l head on my YJ's Nuttered 4.2l and the Weber carb, so I'd estimate it makes a more-than-adequate-for-my-needs 140hp. I'd be willing to bet it develops more torque below 2000 than the Pentastar, too. Its stock peak torque was only 15lb-ft less than the 4.0l but came 2000rpm lower. It "feels" more torquey than my 4.0l did.

I'll take a 4.2l or 4.0l over a 3.8l or 3.6l because the absolute most important thing to me is simplicity. Not horsepower, not top speed, and not creature comforts, but knowing that short of blowing an engine or tranny in the field, I can fix anything that breaks well enough to get me home with about $100 worth of tools in an ammo can. The 4.0l was a trouble-free engine for me, but I didn't like the electronics. Every time it rained and my interior got wet the airbag light would come on because of the stupid clock spring getting wet. I then didn't trust the airbag not to go off at the wrong time, or to go off at the right time. The ECU was less troublesome but short of placing it inside an IP65-rated enclosure I didn't really trust it during water crossings or pressure washings. I do still have the ignition module to think about on my YJ - it's in a REAL stupid place and I'm going to relocate it to under the dash before too long - but it's a 5 minute job to replace and a spare only costs $65.