My wife wants to buy a new Toyota so we can let our oldest drive her old one (a 1998 Toyota Sienna) to work.  I haven't bought a new car since I bought my car in 2000.  Back then I did the thing where you sent one email to a bunch of fleet managers asking them for their best price.  I got good results with that on my 2000 VW Golf GLS TDI and my mother in law's 2001 Subaru Impreza.  It didn't help much with the Sienna.  I'm not sure if that strategy is still a thing.

Suggestions for getting a decent price on a new Toyota?  She's looking at the RAV 4.

We have a Costco membership, so that's an option.

I would go on a Toyota message boards, specifically for the RAV4. There will be a prices paid thread, and it'll give you an idea of what you can expect to pay based on trim level.

Costco isn't necessarily the cheapest.

my brother bought a new corolla in 2007, I was with him when he made the deal
he offered the sales guy $500 less than sticker price and was told, very politely, nope, if you don't buy it the next guy will.

and he was right and we knew it, we'd been looking at corollas for about a month and never saw the same one twice

that's not to say there is no deal to be had but the Rav4 is one of their best sellers

The best price? 

Be employed by Toyota Motor Corp. 

Or have family that is.

Last fall a 2017 was going to be about $30k OTD when we bought the wife's RAV4.  We went with a 2014 instead.  I couldn't see paying the additional $6k for the new one.  I didn't like all the new wizardry and the only real reason she wanted the new one is because of it's color.  No thanks, not paying that much just for a paint color.

Create a gmail account

[email protected]

Then email a dozen or more dealers in your area with the same message of "Im looking to buy X make and model of car within the next week and am sending this email to every Toyota dealer in the area, I will go with whoever is the lowest price, thank you"

My wife did this with her Honda civic, She then took the lowest offer to the dealer with the second lowest offer and asked if they could beat it, they beat it by $100. Competition is a wonderful thing!

Spartikis, this is pretty much what I did last time around.  It didn't work with the local Toyota dealers last time I tried, but I guess it can't hurt to try.

I think I already have a login on the Toyota board shrimpmoney recommended above.  I'll also check Rav 4 prices there.  

I'm willing to pay the premium for the brand and for a new vehicle, I just don't want to pay more than I have to.  I'm a CPA, so I know that buying new doesn't make the most sense financially.  However, I get a lot of peace of mind knowing that the cars we own have been properly maintained from day 1.

Thanks for the replies, guys.

Be careful of "doc fees" on top of the purchase price. They put in these doc fees and make it look like a tax but really just a way they make more money. I was car shopping recently and the doc fee came back at $515 which is crazy expensive. Im okay with a little one usually cause I know its coming and account for it when thinking what is a "good deal". Dealers usually have to show it, but may negotiate the sale price down if you negotiate enough.

Go into the dealership an hour before they close on a Saturday, preferably near the end of the month. Take a test drive and end up in the finance office an hour after they've closed. Start picking the deal apart with the finance guy. The salesman and the finance rep will have other places they want to be.

The wife and I knocked nearly another $3k off the deal made with the salesman on a 14 Honda CR-V this way.

Oh, more details please!!! Picking the deal apart how? Don't you typically agree on the price with the salesman and then go to the finance office?

If you don't mind haggling, this how I do it. Determine the invoice price of the vehicle from NADAGUIDES. That should be easy since it's a Toyota. Also check to see if there are any rebates for the model you're interested in. Toyota also has a 2% holdback on base MSRP. That is the starting price offer. Dealers will also add the dreaded "Handling Fee" which in my area is $500. You can also subtract that from your offer, but they will add it after you agree on a number.


For example; MSRP=$33,500, BASE MSRP=$31,000, Invoice=$28,000 Rebate=$500
Your initial offer should be $28,000-$500(rebate)-$620(holdback)= $26,880

You will need to determine what you want to spend on the vehicle and be willing to walk away. I know the Tacoma guys are getting their trucks at invoice (not sure if they are factoring in the holdback or not) or just a few hundred over invoice.

What area of Washington are you in?

Truecar.  Bought a 17 4Runner using Truecar, had 3 dealers bidding against each other via text.

I am very happy with what I paid.

I truly believe that 3/4 of the claims made in this and most car buying threads are fantasy. Carry on.

I'm in Seattle, StripperClip, but I'd be willing to spend the time and money to drive out of the "greater Seattle area" if the savings made doing so worthwhile.

Thanks guys.  I think I have what I need.