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Posted: 5/14/2017 4:29:07 PM EDT
[#1]
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If you're shooting in manual mode, where you meter and where you focus have no relationship anymore. Point the camera at the brightest part of the image, dial in the settings to give you the meter value you think will work, then focus the camera wherever you like and take the picture. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Yup, I understand it. The question is how. If my metering is focused on a darker area of the setting, the sky doesn't come in well. If I focus on the sky, there might be blow outs. I have been shooting in brackets, but even then the sky sometimes comes out blown (not as bad as before though). So, I would adjust so it would be darker to avoid the blowouts from the sky? Point the camera at the brightest part of the image, dial in the settings to give you the meter value you think will work, then focus the camera wherever you like and take the picture. |
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Posted: 5/14/2017 4:29:42 PM EDT
[#2]
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I bet the following tutorial will help you to use your camera. You could also check through the manual. https://youtu.be/zAFigFMdi58 Normally you would set it in manual mode, look through the viewfinder, partial depress shutter and then dial in the exposure. The camera will tell you under/over in the viewfinder as you adjust the shutter, aperture and ISO. The recompose and take the shot. Then normally you would use the shutter speed to get the over/under that you are looking for so you can blend the shots to get the entire scene properly exposed. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Ok. On my Canon, focusing and the meter are the same. The only way I can get my 'settings' in my viewfinder to appear is to press the shutter button, which does both the focusing and metering. Maybe I should figure out a way to change that? https://youtu.be/zAFigFMdi58 Normally you would set it in manual mode, look through the viewfinder, partial depress shutter and then dial in the exposure. The camera will tell you under/over in the viewfinder as you adjust the shutter, aperture and ISO. The recompose and take the shot. Then normally you would use the shutter speed to get the over/under that you are looking for so you can blend the shots to get the entire scene properly exposed. |
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Posted: 5/14/2017 7:50:19 PM EDT
[#3]
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I'm either in single point or group AF depending on if I'm shooting a static or moving subject. I don't use any of the dynamic modes or 3d whatevers. Even on the D500 (most advanced AF system in a DSLR - ever) it still isn't what I'd call reliable. I prefer to handle the tracking myself. Sounds to me like you're shooting in one of the auto modes if you're having that big of an issue. Try this - throw it into manual, and spot meter on the brightest part of your image. Dial in an appropriate ETTR there, then compose the shot however you'd like it to be. The other option (a bit more fiddly) would be to use one of the auto modes, spot meter as above, and then use the Auto Exposure lock button, and recompose that way. Edit: Forgot to mention for my Nikon brethren...there's a better way to accomplish the above task if your camera supports it. Highlight weighted metering.  |
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Posted: 5/14/2017 7:58:48 PM EDT
[#4]
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Zack has you pointed in the right direction. When shooting sunsets/sunrises with the sun in the frame, you cannot let the camera pick the exposure settings. 11mm, 1/1000s, f/16, ISO 200.  Sunset 20170220 by FredMan, on Flickr
ETA that one led to this one, which is a 3-shot HDR, taken 50 minutes later.  Sunset 20170220 by FredMan, on Flickr
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Posted: 5/14/2017 8:53:17 PM EDT
[#5]
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That's when the asterisk shows next to the spot metering mode? It's intended to be a spotlight type metering mode (think stage performances), but it's actually a matrix meter that will stop you blowing highlights. It often does this by drastically underexposing the image but it does have its uses. |
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Posted: 5/15/2017 11:37:17 AM EDT
[#6]
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Yup, I understand it. The question is how. If my metering is focused on a darker area of the setting, the sky doesn't come in well. If I focus on the sky, there might be blow outs. I have been shooting in brackets, but even then the sky sometimes comes out blown (not as bad as before though). So, I would adjust so it would be darker to avoid the blowouts from the sky? |
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Posted: 5/15/2017 12:34:30 PM EDT
[#7]
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my suggestion is just to stop doing HDR |
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Posted: 5/15/2017 1:23:14 PM EDT
[#8]
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my suggestion is just to stop doing HDR |
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Posted: 5/17/2017 6:53:18 PM EDT
[#9]
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I suspect you guys are really saying "stop doing [the garish and cartoon-ish] HDR" Lots more folks don't realize that after the HDR software is finished doing its thing, all the "normal" post processing still needs to be done. |
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Posted: 5/17/2017 9:47:32 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For sunrise/sunset, the old school method is to frame the shot with the sun just outside frame and use that exposure as the starting point for "matrix" or other full-screen metering. If you are using spot metering, pick a location near but not on the sun. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Yup, I understand it. The question is how. If my metering is focused on a darker area of the setting, the sky doesn't come in well. If I focus on the sky, there might be blow outs. I have been shooting in brackets, but even then the sky sometimes comes out blown (not as bad as before though). So, I would adjust so it would be darker to avoid the blowouts from the sky? |
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Posted: 5/17/2017 9:48:16 PM EDT
[#11]
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Exactly this. Lots of folks don't realize that there is a choice to be made. Lots more folks don't realize that after the HDR software is finished doing its thing, all the "normal" post processing still needs to be done. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I suspect you guys are really saying "stop doing [the garish and cartoon-ish] HDR" Lots more folks don't realize that after the HDR software is finished doing its thing, all the "normal" post processing still needs to be done. It is why I like Lightroom's HDR merging. You start from scratch.  Sunset.Road.View by Robert Mc, on Flickr
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Posted: 5/22/2017 2:47:31 PM EDT
[#12]
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Adobe has a fairly decent guide here. The only thing about merging the HDR in Photoshop vs lightroom is the Photoshop offers 32 bit, where as LR does not? You are still doing all the adjustments in LR. |
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