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Posted: 1/28/2017 12:58:23 AM EDT
[#1]
You might want to pick up a tele converter as well. This should push your 300mm lens to 600mm.
I shoot wildlife sometimes with my Sony A200 and 300mm and I still have to get very close or just be satisfied with the animals being small. Remember, shoot a shutter speed equal or higher than your length. 300mm shoot 1/300 or higher. 600mm use a shutter speed of 1/600 or higher. Depending on your camera use iso 400-800. This should help you keep your shutter speed up. |
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Posted: 1/28/2017 3:58:58 AM EDT
[#2]
Skip the teleconverter. That consumer-grade 75-300mm lens is an f/5.6 lens. Even if you can get a teleconverter to actually mount on that lens, it will perform poorly.
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Posted: 1/28/2017 5:09:03 AM EDT
[#3]
+1 on skipping the teleconverter. You usually need a fast lens to get the best out of them, and those are spendy.
Are you you set on Canon cameras? If you're willing to do refurb stuff, I could probably put together a screaming deal on Nikon gear. Unfortunately, I don't know enough about Canon to do the same. |
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Posted: 1/28/2017 11:34:53 AM EDT
[#4]
I am not set on a certain brand. Like I said abaove, it is in my price range and I could pick it up when I drive to the store.
I do like the idea of a factory warranty with the new gear. But willing to look a refurbished. |
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Posted: 1/28/2017 6:35:25 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am not set on a certain brand. Like I said abaove, it is in my price range and I could pick it up when I drive to the store. I do like the idea of a factory warranty with the new gear. But willing to look a refurbished. Understandable. If you have the chance, see if they have a Nikon D3400 there to handle. It's the best deal in your price range that I can find at the moment, but it comes refurb from Nikon direct. For the most part, in your sub ~$700 range, you aren't going to see much variation in feature sets. It all just comes down largely to brand preference and individual little things. Spec wise, other than being less expensive, there isn't really anything the T6 does better than the D3400. The SL1 has a touch screen (which can suck if you are wearing gloves) and in camera HDR. On the other hand, the D3400 has a higher resolution sensor (24 vs 17.9MP) better low light performance, ISO, and more autofocus points. The specs also say the sensor gets more color data recorded, and I'll admit I personally like the Nikon's warmer tones. Petapixel did a neat article about it the colors camera brands put out when the camera controls everything. Here The D3400 is $480 from Nikon with an 18-55mm and 70-300mm lens. You'll still need to buy a SD card for it though. That's why I undershot the price a bit, because there are little bits and bobs that I'd recommend that add to the price. D3400 If you are willing to go a touch more and only have one lens, what I'd really recommend is this: Nikon D7100 (it's a 4 year old semipro body that is fantastic) refurb $560 Nikon 18-55mm lens refurb $100 (possibly cheaper on the EE) Sandisk Extreme Pro 32gb SD card $20 Amazon warehouse, Damaged packaging SD cards are solid state, you could literally eat one and it would likely be usable or at minimum have recoverable data on the other side. Other stuff: Understanding Exposure 4th Edition $15 DSLR cleaning kit $9 |
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Posted: 1/28/2017 6:50:08 PM EDT
[#6]
That said, if you aren't serious about learning the ins and outs of your camera to take better photos, skip the D7100. Starting at the 7000 and up, they really encourage learning and knowing how to run the camera in manual modes.
Oh, and check out this post by @FredMan in the EE. He might make a deal. I'm not speaking for him, but I'd trust him on used camera gear. Personally I'd take that 18-105 over the 18-55 any day of the week. EE Listing |
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Posted: 1/28/2017 7:31:22 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You might want to pick up a tele converter as well. This should push your 300mm lens to 600mm. I shoot wildlife sometimes with my Sony A200 and 300mm and I still have to get very close or just be satisfied with the animals being small. Remember, shoot a shutter speed equal or higher than your length. 300mm shoot 1/300 or higher. 600mm use a shutter speed of 1/600 or higher. Depending on your camera use iso 400-800. This should help you keep your shutter speed up. I don't want to be rude but... none of this is correct. Please don't confuse the new people. 
A teleconverter on a kit lens is a terrible idea. The 1/focal length rule is also not correct for a DX sensor or smaller, which is likely what he'll end up with. For best results on DX, you need to base it off the effective focal length, and I recommend adding a stop of shutter if you can, especially on a high megapixel sensor. the ISO needs to be...whatever it needs to be to get the shot to work. ETTR. Again, kind of an advanced concept, but that whole "only use x or y iso" is just silly. |
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Posted: 1/28/2017 10:44:16 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Understandable. If you have the chance, see if they have a Nikon D3400 there to handle. It's the best deal in your price range that I can find at the moment, but it comes refurb from Nikon direct. For the most part, in your sub ~$700 range, you aren't going to see much variation in feature sets. It all just comes down largely to brand preference and individual little things. Spec wise, other than being less expensive, there isn't really anything the T6 does better than the D3400. The SL1 has a touch screen (which can suck if you are wearing gloves) and in camera HDR. On the other hand, the D3400 has a higher resolution sensor (24 vs 17.9MP) better low light performance, ISO, and more autofocus points. The specs also say the sensor gets more color data recorded, and I'll admit I personally like the Nikon's warmer tones. Petapixel did a neat article about it the colors camera brands put out when the camera controls everything. Here The D3400 is $480 from Nikon with an 18-55mm and 70-300mm lens. You'll still need to buy a SD card for it though. That's why I undershot the price a bit, because there are little bits and bobs that I'd recommend that add to the price. D3400 If you are willing to go a touch more and only have one lens, what I'd really recommend is this: Nikon D7100 (it's a 4 year old semipro body that is fantastic) refurb $560 Nikon 18-55mm lens refurb $100 (possibly cheaper on the EE) Sandisk Extreme Pro 32gb SD card $20 Amazon warehouse, Damaged packaging SD cards are solid state, you could literally eat one and it would likely be usable or at minimum have recoverable data on the other side. Other stuff: Understanding Exposure 4th Edition $15 DSLR cleaning kit $9 Thank you for all the information. I will look it over and see if I can't stretch my budget or wait a little longer. The only bad thing right now is I have the chance to by a browning citori ultra xt for 600 and some would have to come from the camera fund. |
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Posted: 1/29/2017 10:32:42 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That said, if you aren't serious about learning the ins and outs of your camera to take better photos, skip the D7100. Starting at the 7000 and up, they really encourage learning and knowing how to run the camera in manual modes. Oh, and check out this post by @FredMan in the EE. He might make a deal. I'm not speaking for him, but I'd trust him on used camera gear. Personally I'd take that 18-105 over the 18-55 any day of the week. EE Listing Don't want to break any rules, but talk to me about that listing if you're interested in anything. |
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Posted: 1/31/2017 9:01:02 PM EDT
[#10]
I will do that. Some things have arisen the past 2 days and haven't had much time to look into things as much as I would like before buying.
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Posted: 2/10/2017 12:23:14 AM EDT
[#11]
Going from a point and shoot to a 7100, what am I looking at for a learning curve time frame. It seems like a lot to learn just to get started and I do not want to get frustrated out of the gate and let it collect dust. I can also go with say a 5300 or 5600 which says it can do good auto settings while still having what I need one the camera for manual mode at my own pace.
Is there something I am overlooking? Thank you. |
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Posted: 2/10/2017 12:49:15 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Going from a point and shoot to a 7100, what am I looking at for a learning curve time frame. It seems like a lot to learn just to get started and I do not want to get frustrated out of the gate and let it collect dust. I can also go with say a 5300 or 5600 which says it can do good auto settings while still having what I need one the camera for manual mode at my own pace. Is there something I am overlooking? Thank you. The 7000 series still has auto modes, but the controls are designed to let you use the manual modes a lot easier. The best photos will be taken in manual, but until you hit professional bodies, they have auto modes. On the left, you have a large dial, and a ring below it. The ring is for your shutter choice. (single, multi, quiet, etc) The big dial give you your different modes. Manual, Aperture priority, Shutter priority, and Program (you basically tell it the depth of field and it'll do the rest) Then an effects mode, 2 customizable settings that get saved, scene (night, candlelight, etc) no flash, and completely auto. They just make 99% of the options as buttons instead of having to dick around in a menu to change your ISO, etc. Plus the bodies are magnesium/polycarbonate and weather sealed. The nice thing is, other than placement, it's pretty much the same when you move up to professional bodies, minus you lose the auto settings. The top dial is just a set of buttons for ISO, etc. 
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Posted: 2/10/2017 12:53:23 AM EDT
[#13]
That made my choice a whole lot easier. I may as well pony up the extra little bit of money for the 7100.
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Posted: 2/10/2017 12:58:28 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That made my choice a whole lot easier. I may as well pony up the extra little bit of money for the 7100. You'll be very happy with it. I'd recommend a set of Sandisk Extreme Pro SD 32gb cards. Those will give you the best bang for your buck.  And welcome to your new addiction lol. It's almost as bad as BRD.
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Posted: 2/10/2017 1:06:58 AM EDT
[#15]
Thank you for all the help. I am sure to have a bunch of questions down the road. Hopefully I won't have to much trouble with moving objects.
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Posted: 2/10/2017 1:14:14 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thank you for all the help. I am sure to have a bunch of questions down the road. Hopefully I won't have to much trouble with moving objects. Faster shutter speed and you either need to open your lens (the lower the F/whatever number is, the more open the aperture is to let in light) or bump up ISO (film speed) to compensate. 1/1000 of a second is a good place to start for most stop motion stuff, but play around with it. Helicopter rotors annoy the crap out of me, because you need something like 1/400 to blur them, but still keep the chopper sharp. Understanding exposure is a great resource for figuring out stuff like I want X photo, so you know you have to do Y and Z to make it work. |
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Posted: 2/10/2017 1:43:48 AM EDT
[#17]
I will have lots of reading to do. It's a good thing the pup likes running around so I can get plenty of practice.
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Posted: 2/10/2017 1:50:12 AM EDT
[#18]
This is the bundle I'm looking at. D7100 Bundle
Looking to add a 64gb sandisk extreme pro SD card to go with the generic one that comes with it. Best part is, I can pick it up tmrw and play with it this weekend. Would you recommend a spare battery or filters for the scenic and wildlife photos I would like one take? There are a few streams and creeks I would like to try and capture the fish swimming up the super clear water. |
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Posted: 2/10/2017 1:56:00 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is the bundle I'm looking at. D7100 Bundle Looking to add a 64gb sandisk extreme pro SD card to go with the generic one that comes with it. Best part is, I can pick it up tmrw and play with it this weekend. Would you recommend a spare battery or filters for the scenic and wildlife photos I would like one take? The $1050 bundle? The link is bad so I had to google it. I might be able to beat that with refurbs if you want to save a couple bucks. Will edit this post in a minute. |
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Posted: 2/10/2017 1:57:01 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The $1000 bundle? The link is bad so I had to google it. I might be able to beat that with refurbs if you want to save a couple bucks. Will edit this post in a minute. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/nikon-d7100-dslr-camera-with-18-55mm-vr-ii-and-55-300mm The 1049 bundle. |
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Posted: 2/10/2017 2:17:26 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/nikon-d7100-dslr-camera-with-18-55mm-vr-ii-and-55-300mm The 1049 bundle. Okay so I was pretty close. So these are the refurbs I could find poking around in my usual spots. Not all folks like them, but I've never personally had an issue with any of Nikon's refurb stuff. Mind you, this is all advice, not a 'go by this' post, so grain of salt and all. Either way you go, you'll be happy. I freaking love my D7200, and ahead of time, welcome to your new addiction. I can't believe my planned upgrade to full frame will be $5k or so. 
Beach Camera is a Nikon certified retailer, but I have zero experience with them. Reviews on the company are kinda 50/50, but Nikon will stand behind the product. Nearly the same kit in a refurb for $800 just no SD card or wifi doodad. If you are willing to go with a refurb, you can get a D7200 for around the same money. Just need to pick up SD cards. That said, the only big differences is the 7200 does better in low light and has a lot larger buffer, so it can take more photos before slowing down. So it's really a 50/50 deal. Can't go wrong with either, and the 7100 is still a damn good camera. On the other hand, new warranty vs refurb warranty (90 day + 1 year from Cameta) Cameta Camera: D7200 with 18-55mm, Nikon bag, and cleaning cloth $845 55-300mm lens $200 |
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Posted: 2/10/2017 2:32:43 AM EDT
[#22]
I noticed you mentioned low light conditions. How much difference are we talking?
I'm guessing the bigger buffer size is a good thing for say action shots and flying birds. Now much more to think about. Lol |
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Posted: 2/10/2017 2:43:37 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I noticed you mentioned low light conditions. How much difference are we talking? I'm guessing the bigger buffer size is a good thing for say action shots and flying birds. Now much more to think about. Lol Mind you, ISO is how light sensitive the sensor is. Pretty much the same as the old film speeds, like Kodachrome 400, etc. The bigger the number, the more sensitive it is. The 7100 tops out at 6400 vs the 7200 at 25600. Sometimes (especially under sodium bulbs) the light looks good, but the camera can't see for crap without cranking up the ISO. Case in point for having a higher ISO was this last summer at a car museum up here. Running my D7200 with the absolutely beautiful (and $1800) 14-24 f/2.8 lens, I still had to run the shutter as low as humanly possible and crank the ISO way up so the car could be in focus. If you look at the solid colors, you can see the noise from running an ISO that high, but the camera is capable of it. This was 1/100th of a second (any slower and stuff starts to blur from hand movement) f/6.3 so most of the way open, and still had to use ISO 7200. Did I mention I hate sodium bulbs? 
The second one is Ed Hopkins at the starting line of the 2016 Yukon Quest. Same camera, with a 70-30mm lens at f/10 (peak sharpness on it) and 1/2500th exposure (it was supposed to be 1/1000 but gloves turned the dials) so it's a 7200 ISO again. 
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Posted: 2/10/2017 2:51:43 AM EDT
[#24]
To be honest, the only reason I'd ever consider going away from the D7200 is because the D500 has even better ISO and lower noise, plus a lot higher frame per second. (10 vs 6-7 depending on settings)
But you always end up having to balance a shot one way or another. Either slower shutter to let light in, wider aperture but that gives you a shallower and shallower depth of field, or cranking the ISO up. (Btw, both have an auto ISO mode unless you set it manually) The other thing is having a good SD card to write as fast as possible. Otherwise it doesn't matter if your camera can do 10 frames a second, if your memory can only write 2-3 a second. It'll slow down until it's done writing the buffer. Check this site out. It lets you fiddle with settings to see what happens in real ish time. Camerasim |
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Posted: 2/10/2017 10:39:27 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Faster shutter speed and you either need to open your lens (the lower the F/whatever number is, the more open the aperture is to let in light) or bump up ISO (film speed) to compensate. 1/1000 of a second is a good place to start for most stop motion stuff, but play around with it. Helicopter rotors annoy the crap out of me, because you need something like 1/400 to blur them, but still keep the chopper sharp. Understanding exposure is a great resource for figuring out stuff like I want X photo, so you know you have to do Y and Z to make it work. 1/80 sec  DSC_5377-Bank by FredMan, on Flickr
1/25 sec  DSC_5822-SpeedLoad by FredMan, on Flickr
1/160 sec  DSC_5860-Sunset Load by FredMan, on Flickr
 DSC_5466-Short Final3 by FredMan, on Flickr
1/250  DSC_7104-Mountain Turn1 by FredMan, on Flickr
1/5000 sec
 DSC_6395-Tail Rotor_1-5000s by FredMan, on Flickr
And yeah, I'm full of myself this evening |
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Posted: 2/10/2017 10:43:30 PM EDT
[#26]
To be honest, the only reason I'd ever consider going away from the D7200 is because the D500 has even better ISO and lower noise, plus a lot higher frame per second. And a much bigger buffer. I have yet to run into write lag with mine. D500 ISO 102,400 (the EXIF is wrong here)  ChickenChopper High ISO by FredMan, on Flickr
D500 ISO 51,200  ChickenChopper High ISO-1 by FredMan, on Flickr
It really is amazing. |
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Posted: 2/10/2017 10:43:57 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
...snip... And yeah, I'm full of myself this evening Showoff
Seriously though, I'll have to remember that. Helicopter rotors piss me off because I can't get them just right. Edit: Also 'holy balls' for the D500 ISO. That is insane.  At 100k that looks like my 7200 at 25k ISO.
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Posted: 2/10/2017 11:25:09 PM EDT
[#28]
NP, as you know, I just so happen to have about 13.7 gigabytes of helicopter pictures, so I sort of took that as a challenge.
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Posted: 2/11/2017 12:13:34 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
NP, as you know, I just so happen to have about 13.7 gigabytes of helicopter pictures, so I sort of took that as a challenge. 
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Posted: 2/11/2017 7:52:47 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Seriously though, I'll have to remember that. Helicopter rotors piss me off because I can't get them just right. To make things more complicated, different helos have different rotor speeds. The most frequent helos I have for the Seattle area are the Coast Guard choppers. I shoot them at about 1/160 for the rotor blur. Some of the military stuff needs about 1/80. |
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Posted: 2/11/2017 8:27:04 AM EDT
[#31]
I got to this thread late but one idea is buying a Nikon DSLR that still meters Nikon AIS manual lenses.
I had an old Nikon 300S with an old split screen viewfinder (for manual focusing) and had a nice group of manual AIS lenses.... 28 f1.4, 50 f1.2, and 85 f1.4 You can run a 2x on an 85 1.4 and only get a 170 2.8...which isn't all that bad. Plus you factor in the full frame factor and that 170mm is now roughly a 250mm. The viewfinder is still bright enough to for focusing/metering too. That's what I hated about doublers..it's like your constantly holding the depth of field preview button and left with a dark image. Of course you need to plan your shots well...stationary birds are easier but soon as you learn the depth of field constraints, it's not difficult to get flying birds in sharp focus. I know old manual lenses are archaic but you can get some screaming deals on fast aperture older lenses. Plus Nikon AIS lenses will meter fine in cameras like a D300S. Again, a lot of this is old info so things may have changed. Just another idea to throw out. I will say my 50 1.2 was one of my favorite lenses. You could practically shoot hand help/no flash in a coal mine. |
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Posted: 2/11/2017 11:36:49 AM EDT
[#32]
Thank you for all the help. It seems the ISO can come into a big part of getting a good low light picture, so I don't know if the 7100 is the best or the 5600 which has the same ISO as the 7200.
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Posted: 2/11/2017 1:02:24 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thank you for all the help. It seems the ISO can come into a big part of getting a good low light picture, so I don't know if the 7100 is the best or the 5600 which has the same ISO as the 7200. ISO (theoretically) plays as important a role as shutter speed or aperture. Increasing your shutter speed from 1/500 sec to 1/1000 sec is one stop down so exposure is halved (faster shutter so less light) Increasing your aperture from f/8 to f/5.6 is one stop... so exposure is doubled (wider aperture so more light) Increasing your ISO from 100 to 200 is one stop.... so exposure is doubled (more sensitive sensor, so more light) It doesn't always work out exactly like this, but hopefully you get the idea. |
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Posted: 2/11/2017 3:23:28 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
ISO (theoretically) plays as important a role as shutter speed or aperture. Increasing your shutter speed from 1/500 sec to 1/1000 sec is one stop down so exposure is halved (faster shutter so less light) Increasing your aperture from f/8 to f/5.6 is one stop... so exposure is doubled (wider aperture so more light) Increasing your ISO from 100 to 200 is one stop.... so exposure is doubled (more sensitive sensor, so more light) It doesn't always work out exactly like this, but hopefully you get the idea. So I guess my question would be, would the 6400 on the D7100 body be good to start with, or get the better processor and iso of the D7200 in a newbie body style of the D5600? And the D5600 has built in wifi instead of the dongle for the D7100. |
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Posted: 2/11/2017 3:30:21 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So I guess my question would be, would the 6400 on the D7100 body be good to start with, or get the better processor and iso of the D7200 in a newbie body style of the D5600? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
ISO (theoretically) plays as important a role as shutter speed or aperture. Increasing your shutter speed from 1/500 sec to 1/1000 sec is one stop down so exposure is halved (faster shutter so less light) Increasing your aperture from f/8 to f/5.6 is one stop... so exposure is doubled (wider aperture so more light) Increasing your ISO from 100 to 200 is one stop.... so exposure is doubled (more sensitive sensor, so more light) It doesn't always work out exactly like this, but hopefully you get the idea. So I guess my question would be, would the 6400 on the D7100 body be good to start with, or get the better processor and iso of the D7200 in a newbie body style of the D5600? I don't know enough about the Nikon lineup to offer specific guidance, but if you'll be shooting wildlife I'd go with good high-ISO performance as dusk/dawn shooting will be important |
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Posted: 2/11/2017 3:42:36 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So I guess my question would be, would the 6400 on the D7100 body be good to start with, or get the better processor and iso of the D7200 in a newbie body style of the D5600? And the D5600 has built in wifi instead of the dongle for the D7100. Don't get lost in the numbers. The cameras perform about the same regarding to sensor noise and ISO levels. It often takes several generations of cameras to make a truly noticeable difference in noise performance. The best thing you can do to help your images is to learn how to read a histogram, and expose to the right. It'll help keep the noise to a minimum, even when ISO levels are getting silly. Nikon sensors tend to be rather ISO invariant so you can under expose and boost the shadows without much loss, but it's always going to be better to err on the side of slight over exposure rather than slight under exposure. Especially when shooting raw. Keep in mind that somewhere between a third and a half of all data captured in an image is in the highlight region, so you want to make sure you're getting as much as you can. 
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Posted: 2/11/2017 7:41:42 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't get lost in the numbers. The cameras perform about the same regarding to sensor noise and ISO levels. It often takes several generations of cameras to make a truly noticeable difference in noise performance. The best thing you can do to help your images is to learn how to read a histogram, and expose to the right. It'll help keep the noise to a minimum, even when ISO levels are getting silly. Nikon sensors tend to be rather ISO invariant so you can under expose and boost the shadows without much loss, but it's always going to be better to err on the side of slight over exposure rather than slight under exposure. Especially when shooting raw. Keep in mind that somewhere between a third and a half of all data captured in an image is in the highlight region, so you want to make sure you're getting as much as you can. This is truth. Until you get in the insane ISOs (for me that's above about 12,000) the performance between a D7100 and a D500 isn't going to be really be noticeable. The newer bodies and sensors shine at the upper end. From a practical standpoint I rarely shoot at ISOs higher than 1600. Nice to have, but I got the D500 for framerate and buffer. |
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Posted: 2/11/2017 7:46:19 PM EDT
[#38]
I would have responded sooner but I was off doing a photoshop thread in GD
+1 on what the guys are saying for ISO. Having a wider range is very useful, but if you know how to rock your camera, you can usually work around it fairly well. Personally I underexpose by 0.7 on most stuff, but that's just personal preference. That is also the nice thing about the 7000 series, you have an EV button, so you can just tell the camera to under/overexpose based on whatever settings you have. |
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Posted: 2/11/2017 8:23:06 PM EDT
[#39]
That's what I'm talking about being a new guy with this type of camera. I think it's going to be a lot of trial and error and questions.
If mostly shooting under 1600 ISO, the 7100 would be fine. Would I benefit at all from the increased speed of the expeed 4 over the expeed 3? Say while shooting multiple fps on a moving subject? Also, is wifi the way to go to transfer the pictures? Sorry about all the questions. |
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Posted: 2/11/2017 8:49:51 PM EDT
[#40]
I'll have to look up the exact specs but I think the 7100 will have a faster internal bus system that will make up for he processor difference.
Wifi only really works to mobile stuff like iPads or iPhones (or android) I've never heard of it being used with a PC but could be wrong. Either plugging the camera into your PC or SD card getting plugged in is the usual. That said, I use the wifi on my 7200 to do rough edit ideas on my iPad while I travel. |
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Posted: 2/11/2017 8:59:42 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'll have to look up the exact specs but I think the 7100 will have a faster internal bus system that will make up for he processor difference. Wifi only really works to mobile stuff like iPads or iPhones (or android) I've never heard of it being used with a PC but could be wrong. Either plugging the camera into your PC or SD card getting plugged in is the usual. That said, I use the wifi on my 7200 to do rough edit ideas on my iPad while I travel. Thanks again. Looks like i will probably be going to the store tomorrow. |
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Posted: 2/11/2017 9:44:29 PM EDT
[#42]
My opinion is that wifi on a camera is just marketing hype. Sure, there's some limited use, but it's eyewash.
I do all my transfer work with a car reader of the built-in SD slot on my laptop. You can always cable it up, but for me it's easier to just eject the card. |
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Posted: 2/12/2017 3:05:25 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My opinion is that wifi on a camera is just marketing hype. Sure, there's some limited use, but it's eyewash. I do all my transfer work with a car reader of the built-in SD slot on my laptop. You can always cable it up, but for me it's easier to just eject the card. I thought that way as well until today. Literary this morning as I was picking up some lights from a friend who has a d750. (My next photo related purchase btw). He was telling me how much he loved the wifi so he can put it out to Facebook or an email right away. He said since he's not a pro and generally only has the camera for family stuff, he just transfers the handful of good ones and has them social media ready in a quick minuet. Long story short, we got to talking about how nice it would be to be able to get something like key wedding shots up on Facebook/Instagram within a few min of it happening. Beating the aunt with the iPad to the punch. Just shoot it to the phone, run a quick lr mobile edit and post that shit! I really like the idea and can't wait to try it in the real world. All of that said, it wouldn't make by buy a camera based on weather or not it had wifi. |
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Posted: 2/12/2017 12:16:32 PM EDT
[#44]
I started out with a Rebel XS. Sold the Rebel XS and purchased a used 40D a few years ago that recently crapped out on me. Replaced the broken 40D on Friday with the Canon Rebel T6i. So I am back to shooting the Rebel series and have to admit....I love this little camera!
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Posted: 2/12/2017 4:23:19 PM EDT
[#45]
Well, I pulled the trigger on the D7100 kit. It's home and charging now. I can't wait to get it out and see what it can do.
Got a few flurries falling now so I'm hopine it stops enough for me to get out without getting it wet. Thanks again for all the input. I am sure I will have a whole bunch of questions in the coming days and weeks if I don't understand something. |
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Posted: 2/12/2017 5:13:59 PM EDT
[#46]
Congrats OP and welcome to your new addiction.
Btw, flurries are the perfect time to fiddle with shutter speed. Put the camera on S(butter priority) and look at the display on the top. You'll see your shutter speed displayed up there. Try faster and slower to see what results you get. Some can be blurred others look really cool, etc. Easy practice for figuring shutter speeds till you know it.
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Posted: 2/12/2017 5:56:19 PM EDT
[#47]
I will have to try that if the battery ever charges. I can tell already I think I will want an in between lense. Maybe an 18 to say 105 or something. For ever day. Not sure I want to keep the 55-300 on there all the time unless indoors.
After re-reading this thread, looks like I will be talking to another member in a few weeks if it's still available. |
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Posted: 2/12/2017 9:19:57 PM EDT
[#48]
I have the 18-105 and while it's a kit lens I think it's fantastic. Until I got the 24-120 the 18-105 was my go-to walking around lens.
Check used gear at places like KEH, Adorma, and B&H, not to mention the EE here. |
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Posted: 2/12/2017 9:37:26 PM EDT
[#49]
The 18-105, I see it as stand alone on nikon website. How do I know what is and is not a kit lense while I'm looking at them?
I saw your ee post and if it's available in a few weeks I mayour contact you about it. What made u decide to switch away from it? Also, I noticed a lot of people saying that the plastic connector ring breaks on these lenses. How can you tell f they are metal or plastic when ordering online? |
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Posted: 2/13/2017 12:10:39 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The 18-105, I see it as stand alone on nikon website. How do I know what is and is not a kit lense while I'm looking at them? I saw your ee post and if it's available in a few weeks I mayour contact you about it. What made u decide to switch away from it? Also, I noticed a lot of people saying that the plastic connector ring breaks on these lenses. How can you tell f they are metal or plastic when ordering online? When I say kit lens I mean it is (or was) commonly included in body/lens packages. The 18-105 is a budget lens. Build quality is fine,glass is good, but materials are cheaper than higher-end lenses. One big example is the mounting plate is plastic and not metal. Another is no dust gasket on the mounting plate. I went to the 24-120 because I wanted a higher grade of lens (with the higher grade of price, of course, about twice the cost!). The 24-120 is a gold ring lens; meaning it's a pro-level lens. It's also full-frame, and even though I don't have any FX bodies nothing wrong with putting a full frame lens on a DX body. It's constant aperture (doesn't change as you zoom), and that's nice. The other big reason was that I wanted a bit more reach than 105mm, and as I have wide-angle covered with the Tokina I didn't mind losing the short end. I would rather gain 15mm at the long end and lose 6 mm at the short end. Losing the 16-24mm range (that's between the Tokina and the 24-120) isn't something that seems to be hurting me. The 18-105, for the price, is tough to beat. |
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