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Posted: 8/22/2015 1:43:36 AM EDT
So I am going to be taking some photos of my daughters high school volleyball matches this season and was looking for advice/pointers for what settings to use. The camera is a Nikon D7000 and I will be using the 55-300 4.5-5.6 lense. I know this isn't the ideal lense but it is what I have for now. The only other lenses I have are the 18-55 and a 50mm 1.8g prime lense. I really want a 70-200 f2.8 but don't have the money right now (never thought I would find a hobby more expensive than black rifle disease ). I used this lense to shoot some of her softball last season and was able to get some okay shots. I am pretty new to photography but I figure the best way to learn is to practice, and listen to those with way more knowledge and experience then myself!
Link Posted: 8/22/2015 2:11:44 AM EDT
[#1]
Oh man you're going to have some FUN, hahaha.  Sports is challenging, but really fun to shoot.  Indoors sports are about 2x more challenging than outdoor.  For volleyball you'll get used to that 300mm.  From what I remember shooting volleyball,

1.  the primary places to shoot from are the corners and half-court along and above the net, making sure to stay opposite the ref.  
2.  Follow the girls' eyes, not so much the ball.  If you follow the ball, you'll be out of frame more often than not.  
3.  Shoot with both eyes open.  Shouldn't be hard if you know how to shoot a black rifle.  
4.  Don't be afraid to go vertical on some shots.  These are usually shot from the corners, or mid-way between corner and net.  Low angles.
5.  Your 4.5-5.6 will be fine if you keep the ISO up.  I used to shoot volleyball in ISO1600 film at 4.5.  
6.  Start out manual focus.  If you're shooting autofocus, you'll likely grab the net more often than not, and with a wide aperture, it can make a difference.  
7.  Make sure you're getting faces in the shots.  A lot of beginner sports photogs, like candid portrait photogs, tend to shoot the backs of the kids.  Move around so you're always getting faces.
8.  Have fun with it and once you get the hang of stopping the action, experiment with moving around a lot.  
9.  Rules are meant to be broken.

Funny how things work, I came across this video a couple days ago while looking for strobe reviews.  The first couple minutes you probably won't find relevant.  


Good luck and make sure you update the thread for your results.
Link Posted: 8/22/2015 2:57:46 AM EDT
[#2]
Thanks for the advice. Where is the best place to host photos? I am storing them all on my home laptop (1TB hard drive) but would like a place online so when I want to post them places (like here) I can. I just don't want it to be somewhere that other people can see them without my permission (since they have my kid in them). Maybe I am being paranoid but In today's world I would rather be safe then sorry.
Link Posted: 8/22/2015 5:30:01 AM EDT
[#3]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Thanks for the advice. Where is the best place to host photos? I am storing them all on my home laptop (1TB hard drive) but would like a place online so when I want to post them places (like here) I can. I just don't want it to be somewhere that other people can see them without my permission (since they have my kid in them). Maybe I am being paranoid but In today's world I would rather be safe then sorry.
View Quote
I am almost positive you can do private albums on Flikr.  I love the service as it keeps all EXIF data in place so when you want to share your photos with us its easier for us to make suggestions based on your settings!

 





Link Posted: 8/22/2015 6:59:49 AM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Oh man you're going to have some FUN, hahaha.  Sports is challenging, but really fun to shoot.  Indoors sports are about 2x more challenging than outdoor.  For volleyball you'll get used to that 300mm.  From what I remember shooting volleyball,

1.  the primary places to shoot from are the corners and half-court along and above the net, making sure to stay opposite the ref.  
2.  Follow the girls' eyes, not so much the ball.  If you follow the ball, you'll be out of frame more often than not.  
3.  Shoot with both eyes open.  Shouldn't be hard if you know how to shoot a black rifle.  
4.  Don't be afraid to go vertical on some shots.  These are usually shot from the corners, or mid-way between corner and net.  Low angles.
5.  Your 4.5-5.6 will be fine if you keep the ISO up.  I used to shoot volleyball in ISO1600 film at 4.5.  
6.  Start out manual focus.  If you're shooting autofocus, you'll likely grab the net more often than not, and with a wide aperture, it can make a difference.  
7.  Make sure you're getting faces in the shots.  A lot of beginner sports photogs, like candid portrait photogs, tend to shoot the backs of the kids.  Move around so you're always getting faces.
8.  Have fun with it and once you get the hang of stopping the action, experiment with moving around a lot.  
9.  Rules are meant to be broken.

Funny how things work, I came across this video a couple days ago while looking for strobe reviews.  The first couple minutes you probably won't find relevant.  
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrievxdO6yg

Good luck and make sure you update the thread for your results.
View Quote


Good list.

I'd add make sure you're shooting in RAW so you can unfuck the white balance in post.

Willing to bet it will be hosed. Stadium lighting is wonky.
Link Posted: 8/22/2015 12:23:00 PM EDT
[#5]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



I am almost positive you can do private albums on Flikr.  I love the service as it keeps all EXIF data in place so when you want to share your photos with us its easier for us to make suggestions based on your settings!  
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Quoted:

Thanks for the advice. Where is the best place to host photos? I am storing them all on my home laptop (1TB hard drive) but would like a place online so when I want to post them places (like here) I can. I just don't want it to be somewhere that other people can see them without my permission (since they have my kid in them). Maybe I am being paranoid but In today's world I would rather be safe then sorry.
I am almost positive you can do private albums on Flikr.  I love the service as it keeps all EXIF data in place so when you want to share your photos with us its easier for us to make suggestions based on your settings!  




 
You can do private albums on Flickr.




I second shooting in raw due to the WB. It's very hard to get right in camera due to the finish on the floor and light from the ceiling in the building I shoot.




I get right up near the net near the pole when I'm shooting VB. I have a 70-200 2.8L lens, but I find that on a crop sensor camera it's difficult to shoot in our gym with that much reach.




I'm happy to see this thread, as I was getting ready to start one about this very subject.




What shutter speed are you guys shooting at? I'm thinking that I need to step up my shutter speed or perhaps get a faster lens, but I guess it could be the AF not being accurate/fast enough. I don't have the best luck with my Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 since it's just not sharp at all at 2.8 and becomes acceptable to me at F3.5+. I am out to get pics that are print quality at large sizes though.
Link Posted: 8/22/2015 12:32:03 PM EDT
[#6]
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Quoted:
Good list.

I'd add make sure you're shooting in RAW so you can unfuck the white balance in post.

Willing to bet it will be hosed. Stadium lighting is wonky.
View Quote


I completely forgot about shooting RAW.  I think I'm starting to take it for granted.  
Link Posted: 8/22/2015 6:55:43 PM EDT
[#7]
1/250 SS is going to do a so-so job of stopping action. I'd recommend running 1/400 or higher depending on lighting. Rare is the HS gym that has good lighting though. Be prepared to crank your ISO though. With a slow lens like that your apt to need an ISO of 3200+.  Manual focus is going to give you very few keepers if your picky about sharpness. AF works fine if your careful with it. I always preferred single point focus. If I shot from the end area to pick up the opposite server I'd set my focus point below the net. Likewise catching net work. Means you have to frequently move the focus point but how bad do you want good shots. Anticipate the shot. HS girls are quick and if you wait to see them move to hit the ball you'll miss it. On serves, I liked to snap the shot about the time the ball started coming down after the toss. When you shoot kids receiving the serve, watch the kids closely not the ball and prefocus on one kid. The kids react to the ball quickly so shoot early.

Very important! Don't use flash if you're court side. It's distracting to the kids and against the rules. The refs may let you slide but likely will shut you down the moment a coach complains or they think your interfering.
Once in awhile your going to get an accidental shot that's 'inappropriate'. If you think for a second you might have done so, review the shot and delete it immediately. It happens sometimes. I used to shoot volleyball tourneys on the side so if you have any questions I'll try to help.
Link Posted: 8/23/2015 8:42:52 AM EDT
[#8]
Go in ahead of time and mount strobes in the rafters and fire them with radio slaves. Works great.
Link Posted: 8/23/2015 10:07:45 AM EDT
[#9]

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Quoted:


Go in ahead of time and mount strobes in the rafters and fire them with radio slaves. Works great.
View Quote




 
How much would something like that cost to do on the cheap?
Link Posted: 8/23/2015 11:12:52 AM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:

  How much would something like that cost to do on the cheap?
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Go in ahead of time and mount strobes in the rafters and fire them with radio slaves. Works great.

  How much would something like that cost to do on the cheap?


Highschool-wise?  

You'll need at least one strobe.  Probably the best bet is Paul C. Buff Einstein ($500 new) or White Lightning x1600 or x3200.  Used market has cheaper.  I'd trust the white lightnings used, but not sure about the einsteins.  If they are similar build quality to the alien bees, then I'd buy new.

You might be able to get away with speedlites, depending on the area.

You'll need a way to mount them, and there are too many options to list here.  Manfrotto Magic Arm ($112) keeps being thrown around as a good mount.  

You'll need two PocketWizards ($150 for 2pack).  Do some research and you might be able to find a cheaper option, but I just got some and they look pretty tough so far and compared to my last knockoff set, they are worth the money, especially if you do other types of photography.  If there are other photogs using radio slaves, you might want to get the Plus III as it gives a few more options so your signals don't get confused.  

So, one strobe, mount, and transmitters will run you roughly $762.  Keep in mind you can find used out there and save some money, this is just an estimate.  Also, you can use this stuff for much more than sports and the investment is WELL worth it IMO if you like photography.
Link Posted: 8/23/2015 11:18:08 AM EDT
[#11]
Here's a blog post on strobist I just found about shooting indoor sports.

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2014/02/a-guide-to-lighting-indoor-sports.html
Link Posted: 8/23/2015 12:37:08 PM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:

You'll need a way to mount them, and there are too many options to list here.  Manfrotto Magic Arm ($112) keeps being thrown around as a good mount.  
View Quote


And, you will need a Super Clamp to hold the Magic Arm.  I don't have a Magic Arm, but I do have a Super Clamp, and it is a good solid piece of equipment.
Link Posted: 8/23/2015 3:06:26 PM EDT
[#13]
I used AB-800s which run about  $280. I'd also use Yongnuo triggers. I replaced my PWs with them and haven't had any problems.

Definitely want the super clamp.  And c tether the strobe in case everything fails so it doesn't fall to the court.
Link Posted: 8/24/2015 9:31:47 AM EDT
[#14]
Although excellent advice, I'm a little surprised at the suggestions for strobes.  The rules in our neck of the woods strictly prohibit any flash/strobe photography so no volleyball ref in our district (or surrounding districts) would ever allow any strobes, even remote.  This might not be the case for large districts with very large gyms, but for our smaller venues any flash is deemed too distracting (games have been stopped so perpetrators could be singled out and told to stop).











I've taken many thousands of volleyball pictures over the last several years, and as soon as I started I had to upgrade to full-frame for the ability to shoot in poor lighting with decent noise levels (or ability to apply noise reduction with decent results).  I've also counseled a lot of other parents who had DSLRs and asked me help them "set up their camera" to "take shots like you do".  For those that had F5.6 lenses and maxed out at ISO 3200, they just couldn't get there unless we were in a new gym with absolute top-notch lighting.







For reference, my indoor (primarily volleyball) go-to rig is a D700 with the Nikkor 70-200 f2.8.  However, I've successfully used my 28-300 f5.6 lens in better lit venues.







Looking at my Lightroom catalog, the majority of my shooting has been at ISO 12800, f4.0-5.6, with shutter speeds from 1/400 to 1/800.  With my D700 at ISO 12800, just a touch of Lightroom noise reduction yields decent results.  I also found that even with shutter speeds faster than 1/800 you still can't "freeze" the ball, and below 1/400 it can be difficult to "freeze" head movement and facial expressions (it's also less forgiving of camera movement), especially with fast moving (diving, jumping) players.  Anything lower than f4.0 yielded such a low depth of field that too many shots were out of focus.  As far as lighting was concerned, my worst case scenario (local, very dimly lit gym) was shooting f4.0, ISO 25,600 (max for D700) and 1/320.  This doesn't translate well to slower ISOs and smaller apertures.  Shooting, say, f4, ISO12800, and shutter speed 1/640 translates to a shutter speed of only 1/80 at f5.6 and ISO 3200 (which is why many folks just "can't get there").  Of course, you have to do what you can with what you have.  Note: the preceding is very general in nature.  You can still get good pictures at lower setting (even at 1/125) but the percentage of "keepers" goes down proportionately.







Many of the newer cameras, such as your D7000, are better at high-iso noise reduction, so you might be in better shape than many of the parents I was trying to help.







I have a site on Smugmug.  I pay for the "middle" package so that there's unlimited access by others (i.e. not limited to a certain amount of views per day).  It's been years, and I have almost 50,000 pictures uploaded, so I haven't bothered to compare to other offerings (like Flikr, etc) in awhile.







If you'll indulge me a little longer I'd like to offer the following tip among some of the other excellent advice you've already received:










  • If you haven't already, learn how to disable the shutter button autofocus and use the dedicated focus button on the back of the camera.  Then learn how to move the focus point around the frame.  When I set up behind the opposing team and shoot through the net, I have taught myself to quickly focus on the players torso (below the net), release the focus button (freezing the focus) and then click the shutter.  Otherwise you end up with lots of photos focusing on the net bottom tape, with players out of focus.  This works great for back-row players receiving serves/hits as well as blockers (otherwise might focus on the back of opposing team hitter).  This also works great when shooting from the stands above the net.  You can focus on the setter as she sets up, then let go of the button and still have her in focus in case a hitter steps in front of her.  It also keeps the focus from wandering to the opposite side of the gym when your subject is not in the center of the frame.





If interested, my volleyball photos can be found under "Sports" at my Smugmug site www.beenphotod.com (I've put some thumbnail examples below)












Good luck,





-Bruce







Examples where pre-focus came in handy:













And other fun stuff:











 
 
 
 
Link Posted: 8/24/2015 3:58:43 PM EDT
[#15]
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Quoted:
Although excellent advice, I'm a little surprised at the suggestions for strobes.  The rules in our neck of the woods strictly prohibit any flash/strobe photography so no volleyball ref in our district (or surrounding districts) would ever allow any strobes, even remote.  This might not be the case for large districts with very large gyms, but for our smaller venues any flash is deemed too distracting (games have been stopped so perpetrators could be singled out and told to stop).
View Quote


Great shots!  For every school system that doesn't allow strobes to be used, there's a school system that does.  Not much to be surprised about.  

Back when I was shooting sports regularly, all I had was on-camera flash.  I'd pop kids playing basketball from under the net as they were doing layups.  In the 2-3yrs I did so, from all age brackets, I may have had one or two people ask me to stop.  The key is to ask permission from the coach or ref to see if it's distracting the players.  I shot just about every indoor sport there was this way.

The only place I wasn't allowed to shoot, and it was made well-known to all, was at gymnastics events, swim meets and track where the deaf had to rely on a strobe to start the race.  The city I shot in was a population of around 400k.  Things may have changed over the years, though.  That might give me incentive to check the rules out again.
Link Posted: 8/25/2015 4:56:43 PM EDT
[#16]
Indoor sports is all about the shutter speed. Assuming your gyms are as poorly lit as the ones I shoot, you set the lens wide open and crank up the ISO into the stratosphere. In the case of your lens, that f/5.6 aperture is definitely working against you.

My high school volleyball settings for my FX D700 are these:
Aperture f/2.8 (70-200mm f/2.8, 24-70mm f/2.8)
Manual exposure mode (remove the thinking from the camera)
shutter speed 1/640 (spikes are still getting motion blur in the hands and ball)
manual ISO 6400 (often underexposed, but better noise than Hi1=12800 on my D700)
Raw files (need all the processing room you can get for noise reduction)
Focus mode: continuous (af-c), the fewer focus points the better (d-9 if not single-point)
No camera-mounted or low-height flashes allowed. I have not tried high-mounted strobes.

Since I am shooting NEF files, the white balance can easily be corrected in post processing. However, I will note that most of my gyms do not cycle colors during the electical cycle, so that auto-WB works quite well for me.

Volleyball is a vertical sport, shoot in portrait mode. The battery grip with the extra buttons is great for this.

Shooting through the net is hit or miss with the auto-focus. If the color of the strings are close to the color of the shirts, you can do quite well as the net will be lost and the jersey numbers will be locked onto.

For a good volleyball shot, you need both the ball and face in the frame. For the few back shots you take, you really want the ball and jersey number.

If you are shooting from the floor, check in with the refs to find out where they will and will not let you shoot from.

Follow the players, not the ball. Learn the play patterns of your team.

The 3-meter line (left side) is a nice side view for both the setter and libero.
High from the back is great for spikes and blocks over the net.

My high school galleries for examples:
https://jkiernan.smugmug.com/Sports/Volleyball
Link Posted: 8/25/2015 8:17:50 PM EDT
[#17]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Oh man you're going to have some FUN, hahaha.  Sports is challenging, but really fun to shoot.  Indoors sports are about 2x more challenging than outdoor.  For volleyball you'll get used to that 300mm.  From what I remember shooting volleyball,



1.  the primary places to shoot from are the corners and half-court along and above the net, making sure to stay opposite the ref.  

2.  Follow the girls' eyes, not so much the ball.  If you follow the ball, you'll be out of frame more often than not.  

3.  Shoot with both eyes open.  Shouldn't be hard if you know how to shoot a black rifle.  

4.  Don't be afraid to go vertical on some shots.  These are usually shot from the corners, or mid-way between corner and net.  Low angles.

5.  Your 4.5-5.6 will be fine if you keep the ISO up.  I used to shoot volleyball in ISO1600 film at 4.5.  

6.  Start out manual focus.  If you're shooting autofocus, you'll likely grab the net more often than not, and with a wide aperture, it can make a difference.  

7.  Make sure you're getting faces in the shots.  A lot of beginner sports photogs, like candid portrait photogs, tend to shoot the backs of the kids.  Move around so you're always getting faces.

8.  Have fun with it and once you get the hang of stopping the action, experiment with moving around a lot.  

9.  Rules are meant to be broken.

View Quote







Lots of good advice there, but allow me to divert a bit if I may?


I shoot football (not the same, I know) but I shoot from the same distances you probably will. *I* would opt instead to use a 50mm or a 85mm prime lens with a f1.8 or 2.0 to freeze frame the action.


I have volleyball on my list of things to shoot as well. I used to play & have watched many matches, so I hope I can anticipate a bit in order to get good shots.


I also wish to state the obvious that getting a top tier prime lens will make a HUGE difference in pic quality. I sold some stuff & got a Zeiss lens in both 50 & 85mm. Simply incredible pics!





My .o2



 

Link Posted: 8/25/2015 8:31:42 PM EDT
[#18]
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Quoted:
Lots of good advice there, but allow me to divert a bit if I may?

I shoot football (not the same, I know) but I shoot from the same distances you probably will. *I* would opt instead to use a 50mm or a 85mm prime lens with a f1.8 or 2.0 to freeze frame the action.

I have volleyball on my list of things to shoot as well. I used to play & have watched many matches, so I hope I can anticipate a bit in order to get good shots.

I also wish to state the obvious that getting a top tier prime lens will make a HUGE difference in pic quality. I sold some stuff & got a Zeiss lens in both 50 & 85mm. Simply incredible pics!
My .o2

View Quote


Interesting.  50mm or 85mm?  I've shot basketball with those focal lengths but not football.  How far away are you setting up from the line of scrimmage?  Or were you purely referring to volleyball?
Link Posted: 8/25/2015 9:58:39 PM EDT
[#19]

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Quoted:



Interesting.  50mm or 85mm?  I've shot basketball with those focal lengths but not football.  How far away are you setting up from the line of scrimmage?  Or were you purely referring to volleyball?
View Quote




No 50mm for football, that one time was a disaster!


I normally wouldn't bother with shots around midfield & would instead wait for red zone shots. There the 85 & 135mm prime lenses on manual focus allowed my novice ass to take some half decent pics with a fast shutter speed. I would normally stand behind the end zone, about 3-4 feet past the back of the end zone. Flash would be off, of course.



 

Link Posted: 8/25/2015 10:33:36 PM EDT
[#20]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Indoor sports is all about the shutter speed. Assuming your gyms are as poorly lit as the ones I shoot, you set the lens wide open and crank up the ISO into the stratosphere. In the case of your lens, that f/5.6 aperture is definitely working against you.



My high school volleyball settings for my FX D700 are these:

Aperture f/2.8 (70-200mm f/2.8, 24-70mm f/2.8)

Manual exposure mode (remove the thinking from the camera)

shutter speed 1/640 (spikes are still getting motion blur in the hands and ball)

manual ISO 6400 (often underexposed, but better noise than Hi1=12800 on my D700)

Raw files (need all the processing room you can get for noise reduction)

Focus mode: continuous (af-c), the fewer focus points the better (d-9 if not single-point)

No camera-mounted or low-height flashes allowed. I have not tried high-mounted strobes.



Since I am shooting NEF files, the white balance can easily be corrected in post processing. However, I will note that most of my gyms do not cycle colors during the electical cycle, so that auto-WB works quite well for me.



Volleyball is a vertical sport, shoot in portrait mode. The battery grip with the extra buttons is great for this.



Shooting through the net is hit or miss with the auto-focus. If the color of the strings are close to the color of the shirts, you can do quite well as the net will be lost and the jersey numbers will be locked onto.



For a good volleyball shot, you need both the ball and face in the frame. For the few back shots you take, you really want the ball and jersey number.



If you are shooting from the floor, check in with the refs to find out where they will and will not let you shoot from.



Follow the players, not the ball. Learn the play patterns of your team.



The 3-meter line (left side) is a nice side view for both the setter and libero.

High from the back is great for spikes and blocks over the net.



My high school galleries for examples:

https://jkiernan.smugmug.com/Sports/Volleyball

View Quote




This was taken at ISO 6400? I can tell that the gyms we shoot in are on different planets lighting wise, but I would love to hear as much as you would be willing to share regarding the processing that goes into this in order for you to have this grain free of an image at that ISO. It would really change the way I do things to say the least.





 
Link Posted: 8/26/2015 3:40:54 AM EDT
[#21]
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Quoted:
This was taken at ISO 6400? I can tell that the gyms we shoot in are on different planets lighting wise, but I would love to hear as much as you would be willing to share regarding the processing that goes into this in order for you to have this grain free of an image at that ISO. It would really change the way I do things to say the least.


https://jkiernan.smugmug.com/Sports/Volleyball/20131116-State-3A/1-Eastside-Catholic-v-Oak-Harb/i-wPRQLQP/0/XL/20131115_0300-XL.jpg  
View Quote


According to the EXIF data:
Camera: NIKON D700
Lens: Nikon VR AFS 70-200mm f/2.8 II
ISO: 6400
Aperture: f/2.8
Shutter: 1/800
White Balance: auto
Exposure Program: manual
Exposure Bias: +2/6 EV

This was shot at the state tournaments at St. Martin's University. The lighting there is of uniform brightness and does not cycle with the electrical cycle. This is noticeably better than most high school gyms I shoot at, about one stop brighter. (I do have one gym that I can shoot ISO 3200 properly exposed; gorgeous lighting.)

This was shot at 1/800 using ISO 6400. The next year, I shot the tournament at 1/640 using ISO 4000 for better noise handling. In the case of this gym, I am able to shoot without underexposing which is important for reducing the noise.

The Nikon D700 has the same sensor, processor, and AF system as the previous release of the Nikon D3. As an FX sensor of only 12 mp, the big pixels collect lots of what little light there is.

When shooting at these high ISOs, when the lighting allows for it, I will initially dial in a slight overexposure of +0.3 EV to help eat the digital noise, as noted in the EXIF data as the exposure bias.

When the image is downsized for viewing on the web, or visually downsized by printing at 200+ PPI/DPI, this naturally eats some of the noise resulting in a need of less noise reduction processing than you might think.

I do my processing in Lightroom. When judging the noise reduction and sharpening, I am using a zoom level of 50%, never 100% as that is not a realistic viewing that a client would ever see.

I have created Develop presets for each gym I shoot in; in the case of this gym my settings are
ColorNoiseReduction = 16,
ColorNoiseReductionDetail = 50, (default)
ColorNoiseReductionSmoothness = 50, (default)
LuminanceNoiseReductionDetail = 20,
LuminanceSmoothing = 28, (some noise still visible at 100% zoom)
SharpenDetail = 25, (default, good halo control)
SharpenEdgeMasking = 75, (sharpen the edges, not everything)
SharpenRadius = 1.3,
Sharpness = 80,
SaturationAdjustmentYellow = -24, (the floor is a very bright yellow)

Getting the white balance close to correct goes a long way to getting a good starting point for post processing.

Export sharpening: for screen, medium strength
Link Posted: 8/28/2015 7:15:05 PM EDT
[#22]
Thanks a ton for the info. I really appreciate it. While I'm shooting in a dimly lit closet by comparison, there is clearly a ton of room for improvement in my game. Thanks again.
Link Posted: 9/1/2015 9:31:24 PM EDT
[#23]
Went out an shot tonight. Much better results than in the past. Thanks for the tips on shooting guys. I'm one and done with tonights game. Anything else will be the icing on this one. I'll try to post up a photo soon.
Link Posted: 9/2/2015 6:08:49 PM EDT
[#24]

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Went out an shot tonight. Much better results than in the past. Thanks for the tips on shooting guys. I'm one and done with tonights game. Anything else will be the icing on this one. I'll try to post up a photo soon.
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What lens & speed, may I ask? I want to shoot some matches this season.



 

Link Posted: 9/2/2015 11:10:11 PM EDT
[#25]

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What lens & speed, may I ask? I want to shoot some matches this season.

 





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Quoted:

Went out an shot tonight. Much better results than in the past. Thanks for the tips on shooting guys. I'm one and done with tonights game. Anything else will be the icing on this one. I'll try to post up a photo soon.

What lens & speed, may I ask? I want to shoot some matches this season.

 









 
My Canon 70-200 F2.8. I shot at 2.8 and ISO 1600 all night. I could get very acceptable images for print at 1/320th of a second. I was told by a pro I've gotten to know that the gym we were in was actually a little worse light wise than the one I normally shoot in. I'm going to be pumped to try out our gym now as it was just repainted white this summer.






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