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Posted: 11/10/2014 9:59:57 PM EDT
How can I improve? I know I need to work on diffusing the flash a little better as it likes to reflect off the X300s and the stainless.
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Posted: 11/11/2014 12:21:18 AM EDT
[#1]
Decent start. I'd tone down the lights some, either with diffusion or on power, and work with positioning them a bit lower to skim off the subject a bit more.
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Posted: 11/11/2014 1:59:52 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Decent start. I'd tone down the lights some, either with diffusion or on power, and work with positioning them a bit lower to skim off the subject a bit more. |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 3:03:20 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That makes sense. I had one flash at about the height of the guns and another mounted to the camera as my 2nd trigger hasn't arrived yet. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Decent start. I'd tone down the lights some, either with diffusion or on power, and work with positioning them a bit lower to skim off the subject a bit more. Is the mounted flash a popup, or is it a true mounted flash? If it's mounted, just swivel the flash so that it's not hitting the subject, but still tripping the other strobe. See what that does for ya. Lighting is all about starting out with a foundation, then experimenting until you get it right. Start with a formula: Position....Diffusion.....Intensity For instance, start with cross-lighting. Place the subject in the middle, then two lights pointing at each other. Experiment with positioning them not only laterally, but also vertically. Then on to diffusion, if needed. Also work with bouncing the light via reflectors and such. Then adjust the brightness of the light until you have a decent exposure. |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 6:15:13 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is the mounted flash a popup, or is it a true mounted flash? If it's mounted, just swivel the flash so that it's not hitting the subject, but still tripping the other strobe. See what that does for ya. Lighting is all about starting out with a foundation, then experimenting until you get it right. Start with a formula: Position....Diffusion.....Intensity For instance, start with cross-lighting. Place the subject in the middle, then two lights pointing at each other. Experiment with positioning them not only laterally, but also vertically. Then on to diffusion, if needed. Also work with bouncing the light via reflectors and such. Then adjust the brightness of the light until you have a decent exposure. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Decent start. I'd tone down the lights some, either with diffusion or on power, and work with positioning them a bit lower to skim off the subject a bit more. Is the mounted flash a popup, or is it a true mounted flash? If it's mounted, just swivel the flash so that it's not hitting the subject, but still tripping the other strobe. See what that does for ya. Lighting is all about starting out with a foundation, then experimenting until you get it right. Start with a formula: Position....Diffusion.....Intensity For instance, start with cross-lighting. Place the subject in the middle, then two lights pointing at each other. Experiment with positioning them not only laterally, but also vertically. Then on to diffusion, if needed. Also work with bouncing the light via reflectors and such. Then adjust the brightness of the light until you have a decent exposure. |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 7:57:10 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Its a true mounted flash. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Decent start. I'd tone down the lights some, either with diffusion or on power, and work with positioning them a bit lower to skim off the subject a bit more. Is the mounted flash a popup, or is it a true mounted flash? If it's mounted, just swivel the flash so that it's not hitting the subject, but still tripping the other strobe. See what that does for ya. Lighting is all about starting out with a foundation, then experimenting until you get it right. Start with a formula: Position....Diffusion.....Intensity For instance, start with cross-lighting. Place the subject in the middle, then two lights pointing at each other. Experiment with positioning them not only laterally, but also vertically. Then on to diffusion, if needed. Also work with bouncing the light via reflectors and such. Then adjust the brightness of the light until you have a decent exposure. Cool. You should just be able to twist the head over and point it either behind you or at the strobe and it'll go off. If not, try putting a piece of aluminum foil behind the slave so that it reflects the light into the hole. Or if the head doesn't twist, cover much of it up with foil only so the light goes towards the strobe. Anything to keep it from hitting your subject. |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 8:39:21 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Decent start. I'd tone down the lights some, either with diffusion or on power, and work with positioning them a bit lower to skim off the subject a bit more. Definitely diffuse those lights. Your shooting on a tripod, right? Why do you even need a flash? You can play with shutter to get exposure you want at your aperture. 
Edit, this one is a little blown out, but you get the idea. 
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Posted: 11/12/2014 2:21:08 PM EDT
[#7]
I agree with the others. Just a little blown out, but certainly not unsalvageable. Try to get some more extreme angle on the subject. In combination with the blown out background, they look very flat when shot from almost straight on.
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Posted: 11/12/2014 6:55:36 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I agree with the others. Just a little blown out, but certainly not unsalvageable. Try to get some more extreme angle on the subject. In combination with the blown out background, they look very flat when shot from almost straight on. |
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Posted: 11/12/2014 7:31:12 PM EDT
[#9]
 Hows this?
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Posted: 11/13/2014 9:07:30 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
<a href="http://s305.photobucket.com/user/gentleman4561/media/DSC_0805_zps57bf6ba1.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn229/gentleman4561/DSC_0805_zps57bf6ba1.jpg</a> Hows this? A lot better, but are you shining a light up from the glass? Notice that faint "glow" at the top of the knife blade? You can fix that (if you want to) by lessening the intensity of the back light. You'll also notice the knife, especially around the handle, is a bit washed out or "fuzzy." That's probably from a back light. Just diffuse it or tone it down a bit and you should be golden. The main light looks fine. |
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Posted: 11/13/2014 10:07:19 AM EDT
[#11]
You can use a long exposure and a low power light to "paint" the image if you do not want shadows.
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Posted: 11/13/2014 1:33:37 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A lot better, but are you shining a light up from the glass? Notice that faint "glow" at the top of the knife blade? You can fix that (if you want to) by lessening the intensity of the back light. You'll also notice the knife, especially around the handle, is a bit washed out or "fuzzy." That's probably from a back light. Just diffuse it or tone it down a bit and you should be golden. The main light looks fine. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: <a href="http://s305.photobucket.com/user/gentleman4561/media/DSC_0805_zps57bf6ba1.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn229/gentleman4561/DSC_0805_zps57bf6ba1.jpg</a> Hows this? A lot better, but are you shining a light up from the glass? Notice that faint "glow" at the top of the knife blade? You can fix that (if you want to) by lessening the intensity of the back light. You'll also notice the knife, especially around the handle, is a bit washed out or "fuzzy." That's probably from a back light. Just diffuse it or tone it down a bit and you should be golden. The main light looks fine. Item on glass in a soft box Flash mounted to camera with a diffuser angled to the left to bounce the light to the knife Flash outside the soft box on the right angled up (Sounds like thats the one I need to tone down)
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Posted: 11/13/2014 1:42:57 PM EDT
[#13]
Just remember that 10 seconds of post can make a big difference. Even Ansel Adams did his best work in the darkroom. (sorry for the edit without permission).
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Posted: 11/13/2014 1:58:39 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just remember that 10 seconds of post can make a big difference. Even Ansel Adams did his best work in the darkroom. (sorry for the edit without permission). http://www.digitalperf.com/pix/dsc.jpg Yup. Ansel thought of the negative as the sheet music and the processing as the performance. |
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Posted: 11/13/2014 5:20:38 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yup. Ansel thought of the negative as the sheet music and the processing as the performance. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just remember that 10 seconds of post can make a big difference. Even Ansel Adams did his best work in the darkroom. (sorry for the edit without permission). http://www.digitalperf.com/pix/dsc.jpg Yup. Ansel thought of the negative as the sheet music and the processing as the performance. He would've gone to work for ILM had he come of age in this decade. |
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Posted: 11/13/2014 5:24:21 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That makes sense. The set up for this was Item on glass in a soft box Flash mounted to camera with a diffuser angled to the left to bounce the light to the knife Flash outside the soft box on the right angled up (Sounds like thats the one I need to tone down) Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
<a href="http://s305.photobucket.com/user/gentleman4561/media/DSC_0805_zps57bf6ba1.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn229/gentleman4561/DSC_0805_zps57bf6ba1.jpg</a> Hows this? A lot better, but are you shining a light up from the glass? Notice that faint "glow" at the top of the knife blade? You can fix that (if you want to) by lessening the intensity of the back light. You'll also notice the knife, especially around the handle, is a bit washed out or "fuzzy." That's probably from a back light. Just diffuse it or tone it down a bit and you should be golden. The main light looks fine. Item on glass in a soft box Flash mounted to camera with a diffuser angled to the left to bounce the light to the knife Flash outside the soft box on the right angled up (Sounds like thats the one I need to tone down) If you're trying to do back lighting with glass or something below, remember that you only need a very very slight bit of strobe. Like, at its lowest setting, and diffused. Especially when it's that close. It doesn't seem possible, but light will "bend" around and it'll mess up your contrast a lot. It's part of that whole lens-flare concept that sci-fi directors like to use nowadays. Back lighting to make the background white/shadowless is a lot different than backlighting to add a kicker, though. |
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Posted: 11/18/2014 5:13:59 PM EDT
[#17]
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Posted: 11/18/2014 7:38:11 PM EDT
[#18]
Top one is cool. I think it could be tweaked a little but it's a good start.
Bottom one is overexposed and flat. Pictures with no depth just aren't interesting. I get the symmetry look, but it looks like a backpage ad. |
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Posted: 11/18/2014 8:28:54 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Top one is cool. I think it could be tweaked a little but it's a good start. Bottom one is overexposed and flat. Pictures with no depth just aren't interesting. I get the symmetry look, but it looks like a backpage ad. What kind of tweaks would you recommend? |
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Posted: 11/19/2014 9:09:55 AM EDT
[#20]
The nightforce pic is dark, you are correct, but its flaw is that it sinks back into the background. Do you have a flashlight with a greenish filter on it? Try "painting" the background with it as you make your exposure. Just a little sliver of light would make a huge difference and make it shine.
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Posted: 11/19/2014 7:13:42 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The nightforce pic is dark, you are correct, but its flaw is that it sinks back into the background. Do you have a flashlight with a greenish filter on it? Try "painting" the background with it as you make your exposure. Just a little sliver of light would make a huge difference and make it shine. |
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