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Posted: 9/16/2014 11:20:04 PM EDT
I've done very extensive searching online and have turned up with nothing.  I'll start off by providing a link to my flickr page.

Link

I use a Nikon. And I have a pretty basic studio setup.  Few umbrellas, reflectors, backdrops, strobes, and continuous lights etc.  

Generally when I'm doing white backgrounds, (with firearms) I aim a strobe with a very large umbrella down at about a 45 degree angle or steeper onto the subject. I then add a reflector on the other side to minimize the shadows.  This technique does not eliminate ALL shadows, but it does a pretty darn good job.  I generally get shadows inside trigger guards and through small holes of the object etc.  If I want no shadows, (meaning the firearm is in the middle of white space) I achieve this two ways.  

One way is I simply photoshop shadows out.  It takes too long, and I generally don't love doing it that way.  

The other way is to simple hang the subject from fishing line.  I could also use a large piece of elevated glass, but that would include equipment I don't have.  

This is what keeps me awake at night.  I have spoken with some who say that the technique they use only involves 1 light source, and that the firearm is not hung up by wire etc.  I have been picking my brain for a long time and I cant figure out how that is done.  I'm positive some reflectors are used, but I just don't know how the whole thing would be setup.  

I understand that many photographers are hesitant to share a secret. I've had more than one tell me that they will not tell me how this is done. I respect that, and I understand that. So if you don't want to speak about how its done fine by me.  

However, for myself I have run into a few who don't mind sharing how they achieve this, but I have not come across any explanation that is as simple as what I am wondering.  If you feel so inclined please share.  I would think I've done my due diligence and trying my hardest in figuring this out.  I have spent hours with the lights, and cant figure it out. perhaps I lack equipment.  I have also spent hours online, and have gotten nowhere.  

Any help is appreciated. Comments and IM's welcome. If you don't want to share here, but don't mind sharing by dropping me an email or IM that's fine too, and I'll keep your secret if it means that much to you.

In the case that I get no replies.....it was worth another try I guess..


Link Posted: 9/16/2014 11:49:38 PM EDT
[#1]
Nice gallery.  

I don't use any strobes for firearms on a white background.  Just natural light through the windows of my living room.  I place the firearm on a piece of white foam core (poster board, or whatever) on the floor.  I "feather" the venetian blinds so as not to get any harsh direct light, and since the walls are (basically) white, the entire room becomes the equivalent of a large light box.  Then I use I use a tripod and long exposure times. Works pretty well for minimizing shadows.
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 11:59:29 PM EDT
[#2]
Movie sfx peeps used to mount their spaceship models on rods behind the models. Even a couple stand-rods underneath a piece would be way easier to p'shop out than shadows.
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 12:46:57 AM EDT
[#3]
Good advice.  Any input on how to accomplish white space no shadow kind of stuff without hanging or suspending the subject? I'm referring to guns you see laying on the floor, with no shadows.  Apparently this can be done with only one light.
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 1:25:18 AM EDT
[#4]

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Quoted:


Good advice.  Any input on how to accomplish white space no shadow kind of stuff without hanging or suspending the subject? I'm referring to guns you see laying on the floor, with no shadows.  Apparently this can be done with only one light.
View Quote


How close / far are your lights? If they're close, move them back further away.



Bounce light from white overhead something down onto product.



Lighting doesn't necessarily have to be a 'pro light kit' - lamps with the right colored bulb work really well.
 
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 9:05:23 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

How close / far are your lights? If they're close, move them back further away.

Bounce light from white overhead something down onto product.

Lighting doesn't necessarily have to be a 'pro light kit' - lamps with the right colored bulb work really well.




 
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Good advice.  Any input on how to accomplish white space no shadow kind of stuff without hanging or suspending the subject? I'm referring to guns you see laying on the floor, with no shadows.  Apparently this can be done with only one light.

How close / far are your lights? If they're close, move them back further away.

Bounce light from white overhead something down onto product.

Lighting doesn't necessarily have to be a 'pro light kit' - lamps with the right colored bulb work really well.




 



I'm running an Alien B800 about maybe 4 to 5 feet away from the subject. would a reflector directly above the gun make do the trick you think?
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 9:25:56 AM EDT
[#6]
I think a light box what your looking for.
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 9:36:50 AM EDT
[#7]
I don't see how you would do it without suspending the subject even an inch or so above, but you could use one light.

1.  Get the light as close as possible and as big as possible (umbrella or more useful: light box).  You don't move light sources away if you are trying to lighten the shadows. Think of the sun and how sharp the shadows are in Winter versus Summer.  You could turn the light in the other direction and bounce off a ceiling, thus making the light source larger.

2.  Get lots of diffusion material so as to make the light source as large as possible.  

3.  Put lots of reflective material such as foam core around and opposite the light source to bounce light into the areas where shadows appear.  

4. Unless you have some way to bounce light into the tiny nooks between the subject and the floor, or separate the subject from the floor, you're going to get shadows.
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 12:40:36 PM EDT
[#8]
Long exposure and move the light.
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 2:57:01 PM EDT
[#9]
Hiding the shadows comes down to either removing the base/background that shows the shadow or filling the shadows with more light.

Remove the support base that shows the shadows: use rods, wires to support the object.

Use a transparent base so that the shadows do not show: raised glass or plexi platform.

Use more light to fill in the shadows:  a light tent is an easy option here, bought or DYI.  The catch here is that most bought tents are not big enough to hold a rifle.
By definition, a single light source will create shadows.  You need either multiple lights (with or without the tent) or reflectors to work with the light(s).
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 3:56:00 PM EDT
[#10]
the only way to get ZERO shadows that i'm aware of means  getting the subject off the background so the shadows fall out of frame (basically your fishing wire deal) that or having it on a transparent or translucent surface and lighting from below.
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 4:14:56 PM EDT
[#11]
double tap.
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 5:01:48 PM EDT
[#12]




I did this using a single light source. The sun. Outside. On the hood of my truck actually. White foam board. Did it in a 2 exposure composite. Overexposed the fuck out of one. Underexposed the other. Blend together and voila.
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 9:37:58 PM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:
1.  Get the light as close as possible and as big as possible (umbrella or more useful: light box).  You don't move light sources away if you are trying to lighten the shadows. Think of the sun and how sharp the shadows are in Winter versus Summer.
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Quoted:
1.  Get the light as close as possible and as big as possible (umbrella or more useful: light box).  You don't move light sources away if you are trying to lighten the shadows. Think of the sun and how sharp the shadows are in Winter versus Summer.
Actually, the earth is closest to the sun in January.  


You could turn the light in the other direction and bounce off a ceiling, thus making the light source larger.

2.  Get lots of diffusion material so as to make the light source as large as possible.
These are my suggestions - basically a lightbox as others have suggested.


4. Unless you have some way to bounce light into the tiny nooks between the subject and the floor, or separate the subject from the floor, you're going to get shadows.
QFT. In my opinion, a soft shadow under your subject is usually not a bad thing.
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 9:38:29 PM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:
Long exposure and move the light.
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[ding]  

This technique works well, but takes some practice.
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 10:10:00 PM EDT
[#15]
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Quoted:
Long exposure and move the light.
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Totally makes sense.  Though I would need to practice
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 10:39:03 PM EDT
[#16]
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Quoted:
In my opinion, a soft shadow under your subject is usually not a bad thing.
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Agreed.

I understand the want to create everything in camera, but a pure 255 background without a shadow is something anyone can produce with PS.




Link Posted: 9/17/2014 10:48:06 PM EDT
[#17]


Link Posted: 9/18/2014 11:21:48 AM EDT
[#18]
Link Posted: 9/18/2014 2:55:04 PM EDT
[#19]
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Quoted:
Munition, would you try something for me?

I have no studio experience, but I have been obsessed with your question and I might have a good answer.
After all, it's all about physics.  You either overwhelm the shadows, or hide them, or both.

My thoughts go back to my experience with macro photography with a ring flash.
I did a tremendous amount of surgical macro photography, and when properly done, there is no discernible shadow.
The reason is because all of the shadow is thrown behind the object.
In a studio, or with a lightbox, this can be done with multiple sources, but we only have one source to work with, right?

So what I want to do, is create a ring flash effect, and the way to do this is with the largest umbrella you have.

Camera on a tripod, aimed at your object.
Umbrella directly behind the camera, light source aimed exactly 180 degrees behind the camera, and exactly in the axis of the lens.
One reflector above and behind the object so any rogue shadows are washed out.
A cable release, or use the timer, so you are out of the light path, and you should have it.

Mega ring flash, no shadows, one source.

Right?


http://i58.tinypic.com/16a8il5.jpg
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It would be good for macro.  But it would make a gun look very bad imo. The firearm would have no depth.
Link Posted: 9/18/2014 7:45:31 PM EDT
[#20]
First, excellent work on your Flickr page !!

I think your lighting looks great

If you are looking for the pure white background , as already mentioned is you need to get distance between your background and subject and light the background

I have no clue how people claim you can do it with one light

I use an infinite bagkround ( sheet ....can be wrinkly it doesnt matter ! ) or poster board

Over expose background with light ( even a cheapy slave strobe bulb for $30 will work )  . I generally use 1 1/2 to 2 stops over exposed

Since I use a infinite background ( old sheet ) I hit the sheet from above pointing towards the curve of the sheet

Since overexposed you won't notice the wrinkles in the sheet

Only issue is you need to "stand up" your subject in front of background ....doesn't work when you lay item on the sheet !

I  have had more than one AR fall over balancing on its mag






Link Posted: 9/20/2014 1:21:47 AM EDT
[#21]
Anyone who won't share with you what they know is either a fucking liar or not worth spending time with.


1) Learn the pen tool in Photoshop if you want your object suspended in white or shoot it suspended on seamless.

2) Realize that an object with no shadows looks artificial and to trained eyes is very unapealing.

Link Posted: 9/20/2014 1:24:53 AM EDT
[#22]
Link Posted: 9/20/2014 10:28:43 AM EDT
[#23]
SPR1 by wareagle700, on Flickr

Not my absolute best, but I took the shadows from underneath the bipod legs and magazine away with the pen tool in photoshop. To shoot with absolutely no shadows without suspending the object would be hard to accomplish and hard to repeat. Use photoshop, thats what its for.
Link Posted: 9/21/2014 1:56:39 PM EDT
[#24]
I have decided I need to buy a large sheet of plexiglass...  Pen tool takes too much time when I've got deadlines.  I'd prefer to minimize my post processing.
Link Posted: 9/21/2014 2:18:47 PM EDT
[#25]
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Quoted:
I have decided I need to buy a large sheet of plexiglass...  Pen tool takes too much time when I've got deadlines.  I'd prefer to minimize my post processing.
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Instead of shadows, you will now have reflections. You either have to suspend the object or use a pen tool. If you don't have the time, hire a retoucher.
Link Posted: 9/21/2014 2:21:41 PM EDT
[#26]
Put a green dowl rod down the bore and use content aware fill to get rid of it.
Link Posted: 9/22/2014 11:20:45 PM EDT
[#27]
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Quoted:



Instead of shadows, you will now have reflections. You either have to suspend the object or use a pen tool. If you don't have the time, hire a retoucher.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I have decided I need to buy a large sheet of plexiglass...  Pen tool takes too much time when I've got deadlines.  I'd prefer to minimize my post processing.



Instead of shadows, you will now have reflections. You either have to suspend the object or use a pen tool. If you don't have the time, hire a retoucher.


Stick has been known to make it clear that he doesn't suspend his subjects with wires, and that there are no tricks but just good lighting.  He's also made it clear that he doesn't do a lot of post processing (which could mean many things being subjective).  That being said, How would you assume he took this pick, if not on a see through piece of glass or something? Are the shadows really all erased with the pen tool? because that is a lot of pen tool.  And I believe I have a CPL filter to throw on which "should" minimize or neutralize the reflections???

One of sticks pics on facebook:

Link Posted: 9/23/2014 12:37:31 AM EDT
[#28]
Looks like it was lit from underneath.
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 12:38:59 AM EDT
[#29]
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Quoted:
Looks like it was lit from underneath.
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This.
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 2:15:00 AM EDT
[#30]
Like the above posters said, it was lit from underneath. That doesn't mean it's desireable light.
Link Posted: 9/25/2014 7:12:13 PM EDT
[#31]
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Quoted:
I have decided I need to buy a large sheet of plexiglass...  Pen tool takes too much time when I've got deadlines.  I'd prefer to minimize my post processing.
View Quote


Could do frosted on the side you put the objects on, but keep it covered when not in use, I'd hate to have to keep it clean.
Link Posted: 9/25/2014 7:13:12 PM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Stick has been known to make it clear that he doesn't suspend his subjects with wires, and that there are no tricks but just good lighting.  He's also made it clear that he doesn't do a lot of post processing (which could  mean many things being subjective).  That being said, How would you assume he took this pick, if not on a see through piece of glass or something? Are the shadows really all erased with the pen tool? because that is a lot of pen tool.  And I believe I have a CPL filter to throw on which "should" minimize or neutralize the reflections???

One of sticks pics on facebook:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/1487959_730080807040993_5665527228364225096_o.jpg
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I have decided I need to buy a large sheet of plexiglass...  Pen tool takes too much time when I've got deadlines.  I'd prefer to minimize my post processing.



Instead of shadows, you will now have reflections. You either have to suspend the object or use a pen tool. If you don't have the time, hire a retoucher.


Stick has been known to make it clear that he doesn't suspend his subjects with wires, and that there are no tricks but just good lighting.  He's also made it clear that he doesn't do a lot of post processing (which could  mean many things being subjective).  That being said, How would you assume he took this pick, if not on a see through piece of glass or something? Are the shadows really all erased with the pen tool? because that is a lot of pen tool.  And I believe I have a CPL filter to throw on which "should" minimize or neutralize the reflections???

One of sticks pics on facebook:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/1487959_730080807040993_5665527228364225096_o.jpg


Large lightbox, look at the under lighting.

edit: posted before I saw it covered.
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