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Posted: 8/5/2015 12:52:04 AM EDT

[#1]

Neat. And it looks like a lot of work ahead of you.

I know those feels.

As
for my test paints, between the camera and the monitor, the colors
aren't really coming through true to life, but what the hell, here they
are.

the
actual color for A is actually a fairly rich green, on the dark side,
but nice. Pity that it's the result of blotchy washing. Interesting
enough to look into it again later for Death Corps. They wouldn't get
an all over wash, just the folds in the greatcoats.

Not a bad green in the flesh, but still very blotchy and kind of chalky looking, which kills it.

You
can see that the Athonian Camoshade left an odd, tannish residue where
it'd collected most heavily, and the shade of the wash was so close to
the shade of the base/primer that for most purposes, it didn't change
the color any, just made the overall look dull and with odd residue in
the low points.

Not
bad at all, if I want to keep the basic green of the primer and give it
a dirty look. But it's not the green I'm looking for, and I'm not sure
about it for the Death Korps, either. Might use this on the lower
portions of the greatcoats, though, where they get dirty.

Like the Seraphim Sepia, but darker.

Nuln
Oil is arguably the best at sinking into and emphasizing detail, but
that's to be expected, since it's basically black. It has surprisingly
more potential than the rest, where clearly making sculpted detail stand
out is a factor.

The
Waywatcher Green glaze is quite interesting. I'd never tried a glaze
before, and wasn't sure what to expect. The photo makes it look like it
picks out those details really well, such as there on the thigh armor,
while in person, it does no such thing. It did cover well, no or
minimal blotchiness, and overall seems to have taken a light olive drab
and made it into a richer green color. I kind of like it, but not for
this particular project.

Sourcing more test marines and more primer to continue the search.

Posted: 8/18/2015 9:50:46 AM EDT

[#2]

I used the AP angel green as a primer/base coat for the last batch of Dark angels I did. It was a nice deep dark green. It was an excellent base for the layers to be applied to. I have received and tried out my new airbrush on some models and terrain pieces that I have started, I have to say that I don't think I can ever go back to that big ole rattle can again.

I would post up pics but honestly the pics I have tried taking, well they just sucked. So I will try to get some better pics taken and posted. It hard because if I got time to take pics I could be painting or assembling.

I seem to have caught the table top game bug. In addition to the WH40K I started with I am now building a couple of Malifaux crews and an army of trollbloods for Hordes. My work bench is full of kits that I haven't even opened. I think I may have a problem.

Hi my name is TheWenisPrinkle and I'm addicted to table top minitures.

Posted: 8/18/2015 2:41:27 PM EDT

[#3]

Quote History

Quoted:
I used the AP angel green as a primer/base coat for the last batch of Dark angels I did. It was a nice deep dark green. It was an excellent base for the layers to be applied to. I have received and tried out my new airbrush on some models and terrain pieces that I have started, I have to say that I don't think I can ever go back to that big ole rattle can again.

I would post up pics but honestly the pics I have tried taking, well they just sucked. So I will try to get some better pics taken and posted. It hard because if I got time to take pics I could be painting or assembling.

I seem to have caught the table top game bug. In addition to the WH40K I started with I am now building a couple of Malifaux crews and an army of trollbloods for Hordes. My work bench is full of kits that I haven't even opened. I think I may have a problem.

Hi my name is TheWenisPrinkle and I'm addicted to table top minitures.

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I'm the same way. These threads have reawakened my interest in 40k. In the last two weeks I've picked up the 40k rules/minis/world box, every Imperial codex except Grey Knights, Craftworld and Harlequin codexes, and several dataslates. This is on top of my regular puttering with Warmachine, Hordes, X-Wing, D&D Attack Wing, Infinity, Dystopian Wars, Firestorm Armada, and a load of minis-based board games.

I'm also working out on paper now what I need to field a mixed force of Inquisition, Imperial Knights, Blood Angles, and Skitarii at about 2,500 pts. And all this after I swore I'd never spend another fucking dime on GW product after they brought out 7th Ed. 40k only after about 22 months after 6th Ed and pissed me off.

Posted: 8/18/2015 5:42:59 PM EDT

[#4]

Find a better game ;) Infinity is calling for you.
Some of the new 40k stuff is very nice looking, but I will never spend another dime on GW.

Posted: 8/19/2015 7:45:29 PM EDT

[#5]

Quote History

Quoted:
Find a better game ;) Infinity is calling for you.
Some of the new 40k stuff is very nice looking, but I will never spend another dime on GW.

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Haterz gonna hate! ;)

Posted: 8/21/2015 2:46:15 PM EDT

[#6]

OK, lets hope this works. A friend of mine and I in grad school happened upon a wargaming system called Force on Force, which were rules for modern or near future warfare. Here are some of the models I painted up.

These are supposed to be Navy SEALS. Don't ask what camo scheme they're using. I found a Crye scheme that I thought I could do on a wargaming forum and did my best, lol.

Posted: 8/21/2015 2:52:01 PM EDT

[#7]

Here are some USMC that I painted up.

Posted: 8/22/2015 11:21:30 PM EDT

[#8]

Nice. Particularly the basing. I never wanted to mess with foliage like that.

I've discovered that the AP wolf gray spray is NOT a match for GW's The Fang color, as I'd thought, but is almost dead on for Russ Gray. This pleases me both for use on Space Wolves, but also because it's the base color I started working on my Tau with before my airbrush inexperience led me to give up on them for a few years. They're a Avery much revitalized project, now.

Also, since that time, I learned a lot about what I was doing wrong, AND I've found the Tamiya Flat Green I need for my preheresy Salamanders.

Lots to do here soon, just as I lose a lot of my free time by finally starting to use my GI Bill.

Posted: 8/24/2015 12:27:49 PM EDT

[#9]

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Quoted:
Here are some USMC that I painted up.

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w380/aghistgrad02/IMG_0896_zpsvcutbcit.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w380/aghistgrad02/IMG_0895_zpseyyjd1ue.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w380/aghistgrad02/IMG_0888_zps66vysapl.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w380/aghistgrad02/IMG_0887_zpsvoq93bfu.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w380/aghistgrad02/IMG_0886_zpsmmw9lcht.jpg

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Those look great. I kickstarted a 28mm near future ruleset called Spectre that I still haven't even taken the figs out of the boxes. Maybe I should ebay them...

Posted: 8/24/2015 12:29:39 PM EDT

[#10]

Ok, a buddy of mine and myself have jumped back into Battletech with both feet using the Alpha Strike rule set. Being miniature based, we need more 6mm/1:285 terrain. Anyone have the hook up or make shit like this? Even a link to a vendor that makes it would be great. I'm talking stuff like you would see around a space port, hills, houses, anything that would make a battlefield look better/more realistic.

Posted: 8/25/2015 12:22:56 PM EDT

[#11]

www.gamecraftminiatures.com
http://www.fantasyarc.com/
GHQ
Quite a few others out there, those are off the top of my head.

Oh, and the Spectre stuff looks pretty good. The rules set is free from them, and they are expanding it to other theaters of operation (Middle east, South/Central America/Europe).

Posted: 8/26/2015 12:44:01 AM EDT

[#12]

So, kind of along this vein...

My son and I have gotten deep into tabletop BattleTech since he discovered my stash when we moved at the beginning of June. I have a couple things I didn't have during the previous time I was really into it, back in the mid 90's... I have a decade of serious 3D experience, and a 3D printer. Plus an income to warchest this kind of thing.

So of course we're working on a major terrain project, which turned into a "we're going to set up for plastic injection molding at home to make all this terrain". Seriously. But! Here are the CAD files to share, since we turned THAT part of this into an open source project, called Open WarHex:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:976743

Open WarHex is my personal project to make a modular, scenic terrain system for my tabletop gaming. I have a thermoplastic filament 3D printer and access to plastic injection molding equipment, and these are designed to be buildable both as additive 3D prints, and subtractive machined molds used for plastic injection in ABS.

The Open WarHex is a 1.35" (nominal 1.5") hex with a .2" gutter, for a full diameter of 1.75". Height per layer is .75" The gutter allows for seamless and secure vertical stacking. The gutter also features a self-centering contour for a secondary modular ring base that complex scenery additions such as forest lines or smoke walls can be built on. This allows the hex to be surrounded with modular, movable scenery or details, but leaves ample room in the center for a miniature to still occupy the hex itself.

These terrain pieces can create an awesome, three-dimensional, visually striking tabletop battlefield - especially with some finishing work, such as painting and flocking.

Current pieces include plain single and double hexes and the modular scenery ring. Triple hexes and twelve hex flat areas will be included soon. Compatible scenery parts such as flame hex markers, smoke columns, and other modules will be added over time. Specialty hexes such as roads, water, rough terrain, and others may also be added based on interest.

Anyone that wishes to make compatible hex or scenery parts is welcome to do so, under the Open WarHex banner.

I play tabletop BattleTech, but this terrain system is usable for a wide variety of tabletop games.

Feedback is appreciated! Please leave suggestions, experiences, critical failure analysis, gripes, squawks, wishlists, and any other input you feel could help improve and expand Open WarHex!

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Posted: 8/26/2015 1:32:51 AM EDT

[#13]

Quote History

Quoted:
So, kind of along this vein...

My son and I have gotten deep into tabletop BattleTech since he discovered my stash when we moved at the beginning of June. I have a couple things I didn't have during the previous time I was really into it, back in the mid 90's... I have a decade of serious 3D experience, and a 3D printer. Plus an income to warchest this kind of thing.

So of course we're working on a major terrain project, which turned into a "we're going to set up for plastic injection molding at home to make all this terrain". Seriously. But! Here are the CAD files to share, since we turned THAT part of this into an open source project, called Open WarHex:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:976743

http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/0a/79/77/60/05/Hexes_demo_preview_featured.JPG

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Quoted:
So, kind of along this vein...

My son and I have gotten deep into tabletop BattleTech since he discovered my stash when we moved at the beginning of June. I have a couple things I didn't have during the previous time I was really into it, back in the mid 90's... I have a decade of serious 3D experience, and a 3D printer. Plus an income to warchest this kind of thing.

So of course we're working on a major terrain project, which turned into a "we're going to set up for plastic injection molding at home to make all this terrain". Seriously. But! Here are the CAD files to share, since we turned THAT part of this into an open source project, called Open WarHex:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:976743

http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/0a/79/77/60/05/Hexes_demo_preview_featured.JPG

Open WarHex is my personal project to make a modular, scenic terrain system for my tabletop gaming. I have a thermoplastic filament 3D printer and access to plastic injection molding equipment, and these are designed to be buildable both as additive 3D prints, and subtractive machined molds used for plastic injection in ABS.

The Open WarHex is a 1.35" (nominal 1.5") hex with a .2" gutter, for a full diameter of 1.75". Height per layer is .75" The gutter allows for seamless and secure vertical stacking. The gutter also features a self-centering contour for a secondary modular ring base that complex scenery additions such as forest lines or smoke walls can be built on. This allows the hex to be surrounded with modular, movable scenery or details, but leaves ample room in the center for a miniature to still occupy the hex itself.

These terrain pieces can create an awesome, three-dimensional, visually striking tabletop battlefield - especially with some finishing work, such as painting and flocking.

Current pieces include plain single and double hexes and the modular scenery ring. Triple hexes and twelve hex flat areas will be included soon. Compatible scenery parts such as flame hex markers, smoke columns, and other modules will be added over time. Specialty hexes such as roads, water, rough terrain, and others may also be added based on interest.

Anyone that wishes to make compatible hex or scenery parts is welcome to do so, under the Open WarHex banner.

I play tabletop BattleTech, but this terrain system is usable for a wide variety of tabletop games.

Feedback is appreciated! Please leave suggestions, experiences, critical failure analysis, gripes, squawks, wishlists, and any other input you feel could help improve and expand Open WarHex!

Reminds me of the Heroscape tiles I have a Rubbermaid tub full of. Do you know if they're compatible?

Posted: 8/26/2015 7:50:53 AM EDT

[#14]

Quote History

Quoted:

Reminds me of the Heroscape tiles I have a Rubbermaid tub full of. Do you know if they're compatible?

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
So, kind of along this vein...

My son and I have gotten deep into tabletop BattleTech since he discovered my stash when we moved at the beginning of June. I have a couple things I didn't have during the previous time I was really into it, back in the mid 90's... I have a decade of serious 3D experience, and a 3D printer. Plus an income to warchest this kind of thing.

So of course we're working on a major terrain project, which turned into a "we're going to set up for plastic injection molding at home to make all this terrain". Seriously. But! Here are the CAD files to share, since we turned THAT part of this into an open source project, called Open WarHex:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:976743

http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/0a/79/77/60/05/Hexes_demo_preview_featured.JPG

Open WarHex is my personal project to make a modular, scenic terrain system for my tabletop gaming. I have a thermoplastic filament 3D printer and access to plastic injection molding equipment, and these are designed to be buildable both as additive 3D prints, and subtractive machined molds used for plastic injection in ABS.

The Open WarHex is a 1.35" (nominal 1.5") hex with a .2" gutter, for a full diameter of 1.75". Height per layer is .75" The gutter allows for seamless and secure vertical stacking. The gutter also features a self-centering contour for a secondary modular ring base that complex scenery additions such as forest lines or smoke walls can be built on. This allows the hex to be surrounded with modular, movable scenery or details, but leaves ample room in the center for a miniature to still occupy the hex itself.

These terrain pieces can create an awesome, three-dimensional, visually striking tabletop battlefield - especially with some finishing work, such as painting and flocking.

Current pieces include plain single and double hexes and the modular scenery ring. Triple hexes and twelve hex flat areas will be included soon. Compatible scenery parts such as flame hex markers, smoke columns, and other modules will be added over time. Specialty hexes such as roads, water, rough terrain, and others may also be added based on interest.

Anyone that wishes to make compatible hex or scenery parts is welcome to do so, under the Open WarHex banner.

I play tabletop BattleTech, but this terrain system is usable for a wide variety of tabletop games.

Feedback is appreciated! Please leave suggestions, experiences, critical failure analysis, gripes, squawks, wishlists, and any other input you feel could help improve and expand Open WarHex!

Reminds me of the Heroscape tiles I have a Rubbermaid tub full of. Do you know if they're compatible?

I'm fairly certain I saw a thread on r/battletech about using Heroscape tiles for BT being completely good to go. I'll try to find it.

ETA: I was wrong. It was an old, old thread on Dakka

Posted: 8/26/2015 10:40:56 AM EDT

[#15]

Inspired by HeroScape but not 100% cross compatible. They stack vertically but don't fit with the interlocking edges. HS tiles protrude into the neighboring hex to interlock; I appropriated the gutter area that HS uses for those tabs for my own purposes (the modular scenery ring system). They're also twice as tall.

There are a number of BT players (me being one of them) who have grabbed some HS terrain to play on, but you need a lot to have it work well, and HS has been out of production for going on 5 years, so a batch that large is getting hard to acquire.

You can play HeroScape on these, though. Any hex game, in fact. Hell, you could play Advanced Squad Leader. :)

Posted: 8/26/2015 10:56:52 AM EDT

[#16]

Quoted:
After another 40k thread in GD, and some folks clamoring for a forum for miniature tabletop wargamers, I thought that perhaps there was a middle ground. So, we're coming here.

In THIS thread, we show pics of what we're working on, or what we've completed. We talk about modeling and painting techniques and show our progress as well as our final achievements.

I wish I had more to show, myself. I've moved around a lot, over the years, and have a large...huge backlog of stuff to build and/or paint.

Like...huge.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/shade_1313/minis/IMG_0515_zpsd8ogghyq.jpg

There's around 20 armies in need of work ranging from just painting, to building and painting from the ground up. There's also a LOT of terrain to be built and painted.

A cursory look around, for uncased miniatures I can show of past work, yielded only this:

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/shade_1313/minis/IMG_0510_zpsekzlfxtw.jpg

And I painted him a LONG, long time ago.

Right now, I'm actively working on:

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/shade_1313/minis/IMG_0506_zpsloa3xvaj.jpg

Some Death Korps of Krieg minis that I bought cheap off of a buddy who decided he didn't want to do them after all (and a Baneblade commander), I'm using the ones with broken guns as paint scheme test models, before I start on

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/shade_1313/minis/IMG_0512_zps5pqyxbgi.jpg

The first of MANY DKoK units I have to build and paint.

Also, as I can tell that the Death Korps will be a VERY long running project, I'm painting up other, simpler things concurrently, so I can get armies I can field, and not get bogged down in the slow DK progress.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/shade_1313/minis/IMG_0509_zpsi07lhig7.jpg

The start of some Deathwing. I figure I'll get these guys, and this

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/shade_1313/minis/IMG_0507_zpslrubulld.jpg

Painted up, before moving on to work on something else and waiting a bit before I get back to expanding the Deathwing some, and I have a LOT more planned for them, too.

The Land Raider, by the way, still needs a few basecoats, as you can see. But the initial basecoating helped me see some rather large gaps that I need to fill, first, hence the green stuff.

Also, I'm working on

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/shade_1313/minis/IMG_0505_zpsbmkm8zuf.jpg

A first squad of Thousand Sons.

Beyond that, there's

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/shade_1313/minis/IMG_0508_zpsapzqsou3.jpg

A whole mess of Black Reach marines and terminators, which I'll be painting in test color schemes for the forthcoming Salamanders, as well as

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/shade_1313/minis/IMG_0513_zpszr9yt0jy.jpg

A somewhat altered color scheme for the first squad of my Pre-Heresy Salamanders. I'm thinking slightly brighter than Olive Drab.

And then there's this guy, and the troops with him who are awaiting their squadmates.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/shade_1313/minis/IMG_0514_zpsj8aqoif9.jpg

A Dreamforge Games Eisenkern Crusader Leviathan, sans exterior armor plates, which will be added after the rest is painted. And I'm slowly working on the troopers, too.

So, what are YOU working on, or want to show off?

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Y'all build and paint terrain? How do you do it? Can I see?

Posted: 8/28/2015 12:00:48 PM EDT

[#17]

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Y'all build and paint terrain? How do you do it? Can I see?

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I build some here and there. I don't have any pictures on hand right now, though I might have some time over the weekend.

With the prices of things like GW's plastic terrain being fairly reasonable, and the recent proliferation of laser-cut HDF and MDF terrain hitting the market, I'm not making a lot of scratch-built stuff for representing man-made things, i.e. buildings. Hobby stores that sell model train supplies typically have pretty affordable trees available so that's another terrain piece that I typically will buy anymore rather than build.

Posted: 8/28/2015 1:35:43 PM EDT

[#18]

Quote History

Quoted:
I build some here and there. I don't have any pictures on hand right now, though I might have some time over the weekend.

With the prices of things like GW's plastic terrain being fairly reasonable, and the recent proliferation of laser-cut HDF and MDF terrain hitting the market, I'm not making a lot of scratch-built stuff for representing man-made things, i.e. buildings. Hobby stores that sell model train supplies typically have pretty affordable trees available so that's another terrain piece that I typically will buy anymore rather than build.

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Quoted:

Y'all build and paint terrain? How do you do it? Can I see?

I build some here and there. I don't have any pictures on hand right now, though I might have some time over the weekend.

With the prices of things like GW's plastic terrain being fairly reasonable, and the recent proliferation of laser-cut HDF and MDF terrain hitting the market, I'm not making a lot of scratch-built stuff for representing man-made things, i.e. buildings. Hobby stores that sell model train supplies typically have pretty affordable trees available so that's another terrain piece that I typically will buy anymore rather than build.

This stuff is more for tabletop RPGs but is rather cool: http://www.dwarvenforge.com/

Posted: 8/28/2015 2:05:21 PM EDT

[#19]

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Quoted:

This stuff is more for tabletop RPGs but is rather cool: http://www.dwarvenforge.com/

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Quoted:

Y'all build and paint terrain? How do you do it? Can I see?

I build some here and there. I don't have any pictures on hand right now, though I might have some time over the weekend.

With the prices of things like GW's plastic terrain being fairly reasonable, and the recent proliferation of laser-cut HDF and MDF terrain hitting the market, I'm not making a lot of scratch-built stuff for representing man-made things, i.e. buildings. Hobby stores that sell model train supplies typically have pretty affordable trees available so that's another terrain piece that I typically will buy anymore rather than build.

This stuff is more for tabletop RPGs but is rather cool: http://www.dwarvenforge.com/

Yeah, that guy has been going nuts with that stuff with the help of what appears to be a really positive reaction from a high number of supporters on Kickstarter. If I had the money, I'd love to assemble an entire board of that stuff.

Posted: 8/28/2015 5:26:06 PM EDT

[#20]

Is terrain usually made out of MDF? I'm about to take on some polystyrene projects and I'm looking for tips and tricks.

Posted: 8/28/2015 6:09:25 PM EDT

[#21]

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Is terrain usually made out of MDF? I'm about to take on some polystyrene projects and I'm looking for tips and tricks.

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No, but recently there have been a lot of manufacturers who are making laser-cut HDF and MDF sheets that assemble in to buildings. For anything that looks man-made, it works pretty well. For organic things, like hills for example, it really doesn't cut it. One cool thing about using polystyrene for the purposes of wargames is that plastic cement, like the stuff sold for putting together model planes, will melt it and make it look damaged.

What are you looking to make?

Posted: 8/28/2015 6:22:59 PM EDT

[#22]

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Quoted:

No, but recently there have been a lot of manufacturers who are making laser-cut HDF and MDF sheets that assemble in to buildings. For anything that looks man-made, it works pretty well. For organic things, like hills for example, it really doesn't cut it. One cool thing about using polystyrene for the purposes of wargames is that plastic cement, like the stuff sold for putting together model planes, will melt it and make it look damaged.

What are you looking to make?

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Quoted:

Quoted:
Is terrain usually made out of MDF? I'm about to take on some polystyrene projects and I'm looking for tips and tricks.

No, but recently there have been a lot of manufacturers who are making laser-cut HDF and MDF sheets that assemble in to buildings. For anything that looks man-made, it works pretty well. For organic things, like hills for example, it really doesn't cut it. One cool thing about using polystyrene for the purposes of wargames is that plastic cement, like the stuff sold for putting together model planes, will melt it and make it look damaged.

What are you looking to make?

Terrariums for my critters. Obama, my Orange Baboon Tarantula would really like a war torn Central African setting with tiny discarded machetes and blue helmets. Ragnar, my Panamanian Blond wants jungles with ruins and the Emperor Scorpions want an East African earthen fortress setting. I also want to set up tanks for my future purchases before I get them.

The plan is to get some insulation polystyrene for the backs, to carve in bas relief and then just carve block styrofoam into hides and seal it with multiple coats of paint or grout and paint.

Posted: 8/28/2015 6:32:39 PM EDT

[#23]

If you spray paint foam, test it first. Some spray paints will melt the foam. Sheets of insulation foam are a pretty popular choice for making terrain. It's easy to use and fairly easy to work. There is a tool made for cutting it that looks like a coping saw. The handle houses a D-cell battery which powers the "blade" enough to heat it to cut through the foam. You can buy hard polystyrene in sheets from model train stores which works well for making buildings. It can also usually be found in textures which mimic brick. You can also typically in the same place get hard styrene that looks like I-beams or pipes.

Posted: 8/28/2015 6:34:14 PM EDT

[#24]

Quote History

Quoted:
If you spray paint foam, test it first. Some spray paints will melt the foam. Sheets of insulation foam are a pretty popular choice for making terrain. It's easy to use and fairly easy to work. There is a tool made for cutting it that looks like a coping saw. The handle houses a D-cell battery which powers the "blade" enough to heat it to cut through the foam. You can buy hard polystyrene in sheets from model train stores which works well for making buildings. It can also usually be found in textures which mimic brick. You can also typically in the same place get hard styrene that looks like I-beams or pipes.

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Oh, cool! Thanks!

Posted: 8/28/2015 8:51:47 PM EDT

[#25]

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Quoted:
Oh, cool! Thanks!

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Quoted:

Quoted:

If you spray paint foam, test it first. Some spray paints will melt the foam. Sheets of insulation foam are a pretty popular choice for making terrain. It's easy to use and fairly easy to work. There is a tool made for cutting it that looks like a coping saw. The handle houses a D-cell battery which powers the "blade" enough to heat it to cut through the foam. You can buy hard polystyrene in sheets from model train stores which works well for making buildings. It can also usually be found in textures which mimic brick. You can also typically in the same place get hard styrene that looks like I-beams or pipes.

Oh, cool! Thanks!

Snow, be sure to post some pictures when you are done with them! I'm sure there are some here who might want to see 'em!

Posted: 8/28/2015 8:52:57 PM EDT

[#26]

Also, I noticed this. Why not paint the pieces first, then put them together?

Seems to me that's an easier way of making less mistakes in case you slip.

Posted: 8/28/2015 10:38:59 PM EDT

[#27]

Quote History

Quoted:

Snow, be sure to post some pictures when you are done with them! I'm sure there are some here who might want to see 'em!

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If you spray paint foam, test it first. Some spray paints will melt the foam. Sheets of insulation foam are a pretty popular choice for making terrain. It's easy to use and fairly easy to work. There is a tool made for cutting it that looks like a coping saw. The handle houses a D-cell battery which powers the "blade" enough to heat it to cut through the foam. You can buy hard polystyrene in sheets from model train stores which works well for making buildings. It can also usually be found in textures which mimic brick. You can also typically in the same place get hard styrene that looks like I-beams or pipes.

Oh, cool! Thanks!

Snow, be sure to post some pictures when you are done with them! I'm sure there are some here who might want to see 'em!

I'm sure my first tries will be hideous, lol.

Here's a thread I started on it all a bit ago. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1778005_.html

Posted: 8/28/2015 10:41:46 PM EDT

[#28]

Quote History

Quoted:
I'm sure my first tries will be hideous, lol.

Here's a thread I started on it all a bit ago. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1778005_.html

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Quoted:

Quoted:

If you spray paint foam, test it first. Some spray paints will melt the foam. Sheets of insulation foam are a pretty popular choice for making terrain. It's easy to use and fairly easy to work. There is a tool made for cutting it that looks like a coping saw. The handle houses a D-cell battery which powers the "blade" enough to heat it to cut through the foam. You can buy hard polystyrene in sheets from model train stores which works well for making buildings. It can also usually be found in textures which mimic brick. You can also typically in the same place get hard styrene that looks like I-beams or pipes.

Oh, cool! Thanks!

Snow, be sure to post some pictures when you are done with them! I'm sure there are some here who might want to see 'em!

I'm sure my first tries will be hideous, lol.

Here's a thread I started on it all a bit ago. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1778005_.html

Eh, I'm sure you will do great. You can't screw it up!

But seriously, I'm sure you will do fine.

Posted: 9/3/2015 8:12:15 PM EDT

[#29]

Anyone play on Tabletop Simulator?

You guys have me wanting to dig out my models.

Posted: 9/3/2015 8:40:34 PM EDT

[#30]

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Also, I noticed this. Why not paint the pieces first, then put them together?

Seems to me that's an easier way of making less mistakes in case you slip.

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It's easier to apply paint to a completed model than it is an unbuilt one. You know how the lines on it will set much better than not. The paint that is being used can also be scraped away by the pressures that can sometimes be needed when putting a model together. You also have a more complete idea of how shadows will hit the model when it is built.

Posted: 9/4/2015 10:31:58 AM EDT

[#31]

Painted up some Infinity. I'm going for fairly realistic with these guys.

Posted: 9/4/2015 10:39:01 AM EDT

[#32]

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Painted up some Infinity. I'm going for fairly realistic with these guys.

http://i57.tinypic.com/kdlnk3.jpg

http://oi61.tinypic.com/34dmosj.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/2cxhu68.jpg

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Have you seen the USAriadna minis? I'm really liking those. Incredible job on those minis. I have some Ariadna Caledonians I need to paint up.

Posted: 9/4/2015 10:42:29 AM EDT

[#33]

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Have you seen the USAriadna minis? I'm really liking those. Incredible job on those minis. I have some Ariadna Caledonians I need to paint up.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
Painted up some Infinity. I'm going for fairly realistic with these guys.

http://i57.tinypic.com/kdlnk3.jpg

http://oi61.tinypic.com/34dmosj.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/2cxhu68.jpg

Have you seen the USAriadna minis? I'm really liking those. Incredible job on those minis. I have some Ariadna Caledonians I need to paint up.

Thanks a lot man. Yeah the USAriadna are amazing, though I'm not really feeling the push toward female combat minis. They don't look right usually...the female Grunt for example isn't wearing a vest at all, she's just got a boobalicious sweater.

Here are my Spetsnaz...these guys were fun to paint.

Posted: 9/4/2015 12:04:21 PM EDT

[#34]

Woo! Ariadna Represent! I think I've seen those over on Dakka or the Infinity forums?

Those are some nice looking models. I currently play Vanilla Ariadna, but I'm branching into USARF with the box set.
I have some pics of my stuff, but they kind of suck. Photobucket link for my stuff I'll try to get some better pics of my current collection and post them up.

Posted: 9/4/2015 2:58:05 PM EDT

[#35]

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Quoted:
Woo! Ariadna Represent! I think I've seen those over on Dakka or the Infinity forums?

Those are some nice looking models. I currently play Vanilla Ariadna, but I'm branching into USARF with the box set.
I have some pics of my stuff, but they kind of suck. Photobucket link for my stuff I'll try to get some better pics of my current collection and post them up.

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Looks good! And thank you. How do you like the antipodes? I just bought the box...I've proxied them before and can't really get the hang of using them. Most people online say that they are just furry little cruise missiles but it looks like they take a lot more finesse to use properly in practice.

Posted: 9/4/2015 4:02:43 PM EDT

[#36]

I love them. They're cheap discover/fire magnets that can tie up opponents you want to tie up, or rip stuff to shreds in HtH :D
Plus, they come with a cheap Smoke LGL and regular order generating model :D

I love being able to leap over buildings and up on top of places that opponents thought they were safe from attack on.
Also, Sensor use on them kicks ass! 8 inch radius from EACH Antipode when they use Sensor... so you can get an area 8x24 inches across or a triangle 16 inches on a side roughly :D

Posted: 9/4/2015 7:13:25 PM EDT

[#37]

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Quoted:
I love them. They're cheap discover/fire magnets that can tie up opponents you want to tie up, or rip stuff to shreds in HtH :D
Plus, they come with a cheap Smoke LGL and regular order generating model :D

I love being able to leap over buildings and up on top of places that opponents thought they were safe from attack on.
Also, Sensor use on them kicks ass! 8 inch radius from EACH Antipode when they use Sensor... so you can get an area 8x24 inches across or a triangle 16 inches on a side roughly :D

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I've got to get more Infinity games under my belt. The rules are awesome but very dense and I'm not yet to the point where I can play a game without multiple referrals to the rule book. Sometimes as many as three or four per turn.

Posted: 9/4/2015 8:25:55 PM EDT

[#38]

Dude, I've been playing since just after before Campaign Paradiso came out. I have to look up rules in N3 every game, and sometimes every turn several times.
There are a lot of them to remember, and profile special rules exacerbate the issue.

I keep a copy of the PDF on my phone, and tablet, and have the book when I'm at stores gaming.

I am coming along, and managed to take 4th at the last tourney I played in 2 weeks ago :D

Posted: 9/4/2015 9:17:28 PM EDT

[#39]

The Hacking rules alone make me feel like I know nothing about this system. I get the feeling there are all kinds of dirty tricks I'm missing out on because I don't have a full grasp of the main rules yet.

Posted: 9/4/2015 11:38:46 PM EDT

[#40]

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The Hacking rules alone make me feel like I know nothing about this system. I get the feeling there are all kinds of dirty tricks I'm missing out on because I don't have a full grasp of the main rules yet.

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Play Ariadna. Problem solved.

(We have no hackers - but if it can't be hacked with armor-piercing heavy machineguns and portable autocannons, it ain't worth hacking)

I played a doubles tournament of Warhammer 40k last weekend. I can't link to FB pictures on ARFcom (last time I checked), but I was running Chaos Space Marines and my friend was running Eldar. We took first! Kinda surprising considering I've been playing nothing but Infinity lately and he hasn't played for a year. That game has just become completely silly. And, apparently Chaos Spawn are hilariously effective against aggressive Grav spam.

Posted: 9/4/2015 11:52:03 PM EDT

[#41]

Well, technically, in N3 Vanilla Ariadna has access to Wardriver hackers. So, we can get either Defensive or regular Hackers.
We're just not terribly good at it.
USARF cannot have ANY hackers in the sectorial list though :(

I also collect CA and plan on getting a Heavy Infantry based Yu Jing force when that sectorial comes out in Human Sphere N3.

Posted: 9/7/2015 5:28:20 PM EDT

[#42]

So I dug out some of my old 40k stuff.

I was really into the modelling/painting aspect of it. Especially with my Ork Blood Axe Army (4/5E was a long time ago!):

First up, some Grot conversions. The one with the two choppas is Mad Cog the Grot Grenade; I used him as a stand-in for a squighound:

One of my Nobs and his ammo grot with gear I built with spare parts:

My Warboss:

His Wartrukk:

Buggies:

Posted: 10/1/2015 8:39:25 AM EDT

[#43]

I haven't had a lot of time to paint or play but here are some iPhone pics of some of my work in progress.

First some Dark Angels.

Here is a couple of jersey barriers I'm in the process of finishing.

Here is my Choas Hellbrute, still a long way to go on him. I like the way the skin turned out, very leather like. I don't think the pictures do him credit. I am very happy with how he is progressing being its been about 2 and a half decades since I last painted any models of any type.

And finally one with the front armor plate setting in place.

Lastly some Chaos Chosen.

Sorry about the crappy photos, but I just snapped these quickly at the work bench. Still a lot of time to go painting but they are coming along.

C and C is welcome but please be gentle as this is my first attempt at modeling since around HS.

Posted: 10/1/2015 1:47:06 PM EDT

[#44]

Those look good for a WIP shot, and after many years away from painting. Just need to work on your shading and then highlighting.
If I could stomach GW any more, I'd probably pick up some of the new stuff. But I cannot get past their ridiculous prices and complete antipathy toward their customer base.

Infinity FTW ;)

Posted: 10/1/2015 6:20:42 PM EDT

[#45]

Quote History

Quoted:
Those look good for a WIP shot, and after many years away from painting. Just need to work on your shading and then highlighting.
If I could stomach GW any more, I'd probably pick up some of the new stuff. But I cannot get past their ridiculous prices and complete antipathy toward their customer base.

Infinity FTW ;)

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A couple of weeks ago I ordered some Infinity terrain from Warsenal. For what I paid, I'm pretty happy with it.

Posted: 10/4/2015 12:23:48 PM EDT

[#46]

Anyone have any experience with 6mm Microarmor? I've purchased a few for use with Battletech and possibly GHQ's rule set later on. The detail is damned good for as small as these things are, but I'm concerned if I use a spray primer I'll cover most of it up. Anyone have any suggestions for brush on primer or techniques/tutorials?

Posted: 11/14/2015 2:35:56 AM EDT

[#47]

Here's what I've been working on lately, 1:2400 scale ship miniatures for the Harpoon 4 board game. Le me say, 3D printed models are infinitely easier than learning Harpoon!

Anyhow, I'm still looking to change both my printing methods and the models themselves in order to get a higher quality print.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Miniature Wargaming??!??!? Yes, Miniatures. Painting and modeling thread. (Page 2 of 2)

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