Road bike - should I buy - update w/ pic on page 1

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Road bike - should I buy - update w/ pic on page 1

Posted: 5/31/2017 8:39:40 PM EDT

I have a mountain bike. For some reason I want a road bike for my subdivision and any other time I feel like riding it which is mainly when visiting the inlaws in st Augustine.

I found a 2009 specialized Allez triple. Needs new tires but otherwise seems to be in excellent shape. It's all stock from the manufacturer. The seller agreed to $280 if I want it. Is that a good starter bike/price?

Thanks!

Posted: 5/31/2017 8:46:05 PM EDT

[#1]

Always check bicycle blue book.

In my mind, these days... Unless you are in a somewhat rural area, it just isn't worth it to ride on the streets anymore.

recent example.

As far as bikes go, I don't think i'd be jumping into a 8+ year old bike. The components have come a long way since then. I'd suggest checking out your local bike shop, and seeing whats currently hot, then, use that to search used if you need it cheaper.

Posted: 5/31/2017 8:50:18 PM EDT

[#2]

Quote History

Quoted:
Always check bicycle blue book.

In my mind, these days... Unless you are in a somewhat rural area, it just isn't worth it to ride on the streets anymore.

recent example.

As far as bikes go, I don't think i'd be jumping into a 8+ year old bike. The components have come a long way since then. I'd suggest checking out your local bike shop, and seeing whats currently hot, then, use that to search used if you need it cheaper.

View Quote

Probably can't get much more rural than where I live but I still wouldn't ride bikes on the roads here. I can ride on the sidewalks and/or bike lane in st Augustine so it would get used there.

I admit I know nothing about road bikes and the components, so I appreciate the advice on the components being older.

Posted: 5/31/2017 9:11:05 PM EDT

[#3]

Shop around CL for a used bike in your price range. If you like it and continue in the sport you know better what you want after riding awhile.

I bought a Specialized Crosstrail first, then went to a Scattante 330 XLR CX bike. It is the most versatile bike I own. A few years later I upped the game and bought a Cervelo TT bike and a S2 road bike.

Sort of like guns, you always want more.

I would recommend looking at a cyclocross model to cover most all the bases. I think the 105 level components are your best bang for the buck. Triples are falling out of favor nowadays. A compact crank will give you all the needed gears.

Posted: 5/31/2017 9:22:01 PM EDT

[#4]

Quoted:
I have a mountain bike. For some reason I want a road bike for my subdivision and any other time I feel like riding it which is mainly when visiting the inlaws in st Augustine.

I found a 2009 specialized Allez triple. Needs new tires but otherwise seems to be in excellent shape. It's all stock from the manufacturer. The seller agreed to $280 if I want it. Is that a good starter bike/price?

Thanks!

View Quote

Is it the right size?

How sure are you that you want to road bike?

If the bike does not fit you, or needs more than a stem/spacer change to fit you, it is not worth it, no matter how inexpensive it is.

If you are not sure about road riding, $280 is a pretty inexpensive way to get your feet wet.

If you ar sure that you want to road ride, a $280 can be a cheap starter and later becom a trainer bike - if it fits.n Triple is kind of lame on a road bike.

Posted: 6/1/2017 5:27:55 AM EDT

[#5]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to hold off and do some research before buying anything.

Posted: 6/1/2017 6:40:36 AM EDT

[#6]

From your description of where you're going to ride, you don't need a road bike, you need a hybrid. Sidewalks and road bikes is not a good combination.

Posted: 6/1/2017 7:27:53 AM EDT

[#7]

Obsolete. By 2009 triples were rapidly becoming an endangered breed, replaced by the "compact double" which provides an equally wide set of gear ratios but far better shifting.

BTW there is "old 105" vs "new 105": there was a revamp with major improvements in 2010. You want new 105.

http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/first-look-new-shimano-105-road-groupset-review-24923/

Posted: 6/2/2017 2:23:53 PM EDT

[#8]

An older bike is not out of date. I traded into a mint condition 2005 Competition Carbon Fiber Raleigh Road Bike that is several years old but has good components. Every race I have competed in I did extremely well in with that bike and still have it. I love the bike and it still kicks ass and has performed on par or better with the newer bikes. I'm glad I got it with no complaints at all.

Posted: 6/2/2017 3:11:27 PM EDT

[#9]

All old bikes are not obsolete. My 2006 Cervelo P3C is still going strong. Not obsolete either.

But the OPs proposed old bike is obsolete.

Posted: 6/2/2017 3:24:15 PM EDT

[#10]

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An older bike is not out of date. I traded into a mint condition 2005 Competition Carbon Fiber Raleigh Road Bike that is several years old but has good components. Every race I have competed in I did extremely well in with that bike and still have it. I love the bike and it still kicks ass and has performed on par or better with the newer bikes. I'm glad I got it with no complaints at all.

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^ Nice!

To nlm23;

Road bikes are kick ass! If you have the bug, buy one. As to the old/obsolete thing, from 1987 to 2014 I had a 1983 French Motobecane. She was smooth, tough & fun. She lasted as long as she did because of professional maintenance. As long as you aren't racing, you can enjoy an older model. I've got a 2014 Felt Z85 performance road machine now. Love it!

As for the one you're looking at, it's an ideal first racing style bike. It looks like it wants to run! But, the bike absolutely has to be sized to you. Wheels and frame. If you are sure the bike is the right size, then buy it.

Posted: 6/2/2017 4:08:58 PM EDT

[#11]

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All old bikes are not obsolete. My 2006 Cervelo P3C is still going strong. Not obsolete either.

But the OPs proposed old bike is obsolete.

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Yeah, you guys talked me out of that one. For what I want to do I think a road bike might not be the best answer. I've been looking at cyclocross bikes now. Seems like it's a heavier duty road bike that could handle rougher roads and/or sidewalks but would be better than my mountain bike for those conditions.

Posted: 6/4/2017 10:08:46 AM EDT

[#12]

I think the main question you need to resolve is whether you want drop handlebars (as seen on road/gravel bikes) or mountain bike handlebars. For your riding, I would be very, very skeptical that drop bars are the best way to go. Those are designed for long and/or fast rides, not riding around on the sidewalks and bike paths.

A sport hybrid is probably your best bet. The term "hybrid" is almost meaningless today and can be anything from a fat-tired, pullback handlebar, front suspension comfort bike to what is basically a road bike with flat handlebars, and everything in between. Every major bike company has a "fitness" bike or hybrid. Trek calls theirs the FX series and I think that type of bike is the best choice for anyone who is not an experienced rider and isn't a dedicated road/gravel cyclist or mountain biker.

This is Trek's lowest level FX and although it's not fancy, for about $360 it will last as long as you care to ride it, as long as it's maintained. If you bought one and found you enjoyed riding, within a year you will be looking to upgrade to a higher level bike. Almost guaranteed.

Also, bike shops will let you test ride bicycles, just like a car dealership. If you are serious about purchasing a specific bike but it's not quite right in the comfort department, they will swap things like handlebars, saddles, stems, grips, etc... for a small fee or possibly even for free.

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Posted: 6/4/2017 10:20:43 AM EDT

[#13]

I'll probably start doing some longer rides on the road so I'd like to try the drop handlebars. I'm looking to do my first sprint triathlon later this year (decided that yesterday) so a road bike is probably best for that.

As far as riding, my subdivision loop is 3/4 of a mile so I can ride in circles if need be. At my in laws I can ride in the bike path or on the sidewalk. I think the most I've ridden there was about 12-15 miles, but I'd like to do more. I can also go up to the silver comet trail. My brother is about to move closer to it and I'm only about an hour away.

I'm going to go to the trek store today and just get an idea of what I like and what size bike I need.

Posted: 6/4/2017 10:47:17 AM EDT

[#14]

I live in a rural area but I have no clue how it compares to rural FL. Living here, if I didn't regularly participate in triathlons I would not own my tri bike. I would have a bike like the Trek mentioned above. Even though we have many bike paths and rails to trails paths around here they are rough, are loaded with gravel and they beat the shit out of me and my tri bike. Bumps, broken up asphalt, goose and horse shit, puddles of water, etc. I am currently riding about 250 miles a week which means I am doing lots of maintenance just to keep up with the abuse I put my bike through. I imagine a road bike would be in the same situation. If your roads and trails are in better shape YMMV.

Unless you think you will be a podium winner, or you plan on doing iron distance triathlons or numerous century+ rides, a crossover or a mountain bike will work just fine for any triathlons or casual riding you want to do. My advice is to buy a cheap used bike first, then when and if you decide you are really enjoying putting on lots of miles on the bike, upgrade to new or nearly new. Garages around this country are littered with expensive bikes that people bought thinking they would use them more. Now they sit and collect dust.

Posted: 6/4/2017 10:53:26 AM EDT

[#15]

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I'll probably start doing some longer rides on the road so I'd like to try the drop handlebars. I'm looking to do my first sprint triathlon later this year (decided that yesterday) so a road bike is probably best for that.

As far as riding, my subdivision loop is 3/4 of a mile so I can ride in circles if need be. At my in laws I can ride in the bike path or on the sidewalk. I think the most I've ridden there was about 12-15 miles, but I'd like to do more. I can also go up to the silver comet trail. My brother is about to move closer to it and I'm only about an hour away.

I'm going to go to the trek store today and just get an idea of what I like and what size bike I need.

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You might make sure they are open before making the trip. Around here, all bike shops are closed on Sunday.

Posted: 6/4/2017 11:31:08 AM EDT

[#16]

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You might make sure they are open before making the trip. Around here, all bike shops are closed on Sunday.

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They are the only ones open..1-5.

Since you guys know way more than I do about bikes, what do you think about this?

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/bik/6144705775.html

Posted: 6/4/2017 11:46:36 AM EDT

[#17]

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Quoted:

They are the only ones open..1-5.

Since you guys know way more than I do about bikes, what do you think about this?

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/bik/6144705775.html

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I have no knowledge or experience with road bikes so I can't really provide any input beyond the fact that it has to fit and Cannondale and SRAM are good brands. I'm guessing a 58cm model would fit someone who is over 6 feet tall, possibly by several inches.

Posted: 6/4/2017 11:52:29 AM EDT

[#18]

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I have no knowledge or experience with road bikes so I can't really provide any input beyond the fact that it has to fit and Cannondale and SRAM are good brands. I'm guessing a 58cm model would fit someone who is over 6 feet tall, possibly by several inches.

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I'm 6'2 so I've been looking mainly around the 58 to 60cm frames as I've perused Craigslist. But I'll definitely need to make sure it fits before dropping $1000 on any bike.

Posted: 6/4/2017 2:49:12 PM EDT

[#19]

Well assuming I don't robbed during this Craigslist transaction, I'm buying the cannondale linked above. Seller accepted $850. I'll update with a picture when I make it back from picking it up.

Posted: 6/4/2017 4:00:28 PM EDT

[#20]

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Well assuming I don't robbed during this Craigslist transaction, I'm buying the cannondale linked above. Seller accepted $850. I'll update with a picture when I make it back from picking it up.

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Hard to miss at a price that low ...get it fitted (it makes a difference) and ride the snot out of it..
Here's what the blue book is on it

Bicycle ConditionPrivate Party Value
Excellent $1143 - $1176
Very Good $1088 - $1121
Good $992 - $1022
Fair $714 - $736
MSRP New $2,900

Posted: 6/4/2017 6:44:58 PM EDT

[#21]

So I ended up buying it. Looked to be just like the pictures, very little scratches or dings.

They left the shimano clipless pedals too. As soon as I figure out how to upload a pic from my phone (sizing issue), I'll put one up.

It is amazing the difference in weight between the all carbon bike and my giant mountain bike.

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Posted: 6/5/2017 3:31:02 AM EDT

[#22]

Nice bike! But much more "road oriented" than I thought you would buy.

What made you go that way? Nothing wrong with your choice just curious.

Posted: 6/5/2017 5:31:44 AM EDT

[#23]

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Quoted:
Nice bike! But much more "road oriented" than I thought you would buy.

What made you go that way? Nothing wrong with your choice just curious.

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I went this way because I have a mountain bike, so I figured this gave me a little versatility in choosing what I want to ride. I'll be doing my first triathlon sprint later in the year and I wanted something more suited for road use for that event. I'd like to work up to doing some longer rides as well. It seemed like a good deal that won't require a bunch of upgrades if I find out I really enjoy road biking.

Posted: 6/5/2017 6:18:40 AM EDT

[#24]

Those are mountain bike pedals. I started that way as I transitioned from mountain to road bike to save some expense of not have to buy new shoes too. Shortly there after bought the correct road pedals and shoes. Rides longer than 15 miles and you will get some hot spots, or numbness in your feet.

Posted: 6/5/2017 6:39:08 AM EDT

[#25]

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Those are mountain bike pedals. I started that way as I transitioned from mountain to road bike to save some expense of not have to buy new shoes too. Shortly there after bought the correct road pedals and shoes. Rides longer than 15 miles and you will get some hot spots, or numbness in your feet.

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I saw they were mountain bike after I researched them. I've never used clip in type pedals before. I ended up ordering cleats for them and about to purchase some shoes. I'm getting shoes that can be 2 or 3 bolt so that I can switch them out once I feel the need to. I figured that's the least expensive way to start as figure out what I like/need.

I'm open to all advice though since this is new to me. If you (or anybody) sees anything else that you think may need changed in the future, I'd like to hear about it. I have thought about getting a set of true road tires for the triathlon and times when I do road bike on nicer roads.

Posted: 6/5/2017 6:49:39 AM EDT

[#26]

The Allez is a sub $1000 bike when new here in 2017, so I tend to think $280 for a 2009 is a bit steep.

If it absolutely fits you where you won't have to buy even a new stem or saddle (keep in mind that the saddle would have had to been replaced - any bicycle under $1800 these days comes with a craptastic entry-level saddle), then offer $75 or $90

-------

Edit to see you saw the light. Congrats on the nice Can-o-Ale bicycle. (keep in mind, if you are a beer fan, that on black Cannondales ... I've proven that people love it when you take black electrical tape and wrap the tube so that it only shows "Can o ale"

)

For modern road cycling, clipless pedals are just about needed. But, the place to learn clipless is on the dirt, over soft soil / grass. Take those MTB pedals, put them on the mountain bike you own, and start practicing using them, and unclipping from leaning against a tree, then from varying speeds all the way down to unexpectedly being stopped. And, then it's time to buy a set of pedals and shoes for the road bike. Obviously, practicing clipless on a road bike on the roads is a path toward pain, if not suicide when getting it wrong around traffic.

For road bike pedals, I've had and liked "Look" brand, but for the newest set decided to try a 'Look' copy that has turned out to work excellent - Bike Nashbar's road bike pedals: http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10053&langId=-1&catalogId=10052&productId=554739&utm_source=Google_Product_Search&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=datafeed&cm_mmc=Google_Product_Search-_-PLA-_-Datafeed-_-Nashbar%20Alpe%20D'Huez%20Pedals&CAWELAID=400006960000107676&source=googleUS&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=25428001938&CATCI=pla-174912215058&catargetid=400006960000134371&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKEAjwgtTJBRDRmd6ZtLrGyxwSJAA7Fy-hohVUFwHcldbGb4oQ2bdElIaFv0p-6cJJLR09BlZPfBoCq0Lw_wcB

So for $34.99 for the pedals (I think they come with cleats), and then $60 to $90 for regular velcro-strapped road bike shoes, you're in the business and doing fine. I've used my $34.99 pedals for a few years now, and generally ride 43.5 miles on Saturday mornings with moderately fast groups or solo. They are fucking excellent for the money.

Posted: 6/5/2017 7:34:58 AM EDT

[#27]

as long as it fits you properly that will be an excellent long term bike for you

Posted: 6/5/2017 9:12:06 AM EDT

[#28]

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Quoted:
The Allez is a sub $1000 bike when new here in 2017, so I tend to think $280 for a 2009 is a bit steep.

If it absolutely fits you where you won't have to buy even a new stem or saddle (keep in mind that the saddle would have had to been replaced - any bicycle under $1800 these days comes with a craptastic entry-level saddle), then offer $75 or $90

-------

Edit to see you saw the light. Congrats on the nice Can-o-Ale bicycle. (keep in mind, if you are a beer fan, that on black Cannondales ... I've proven that people love it when you take black electrical tape and wrap the tube so that it only shows "Can o ale"

)

For modern road cycling, clipless pedals are just about needed. But, the place to learn clipless is on the dirt, over soft soil / grass. Take those MTB pedals, put them on the mountain bike you own, and start practicing using them, and unclipping from leaning against a tree, then from varying speeds all the way down to unexpectedly being stopped. And, then it's time to buy a set of pedals and shoes for the road bike. Obviously, practicing clipless on a road bike on the roads is a path toward pain, if not suicide when getting it wrong around traffic.

For road bike pedals, I've had and liked "Look" brand, but for the newest set decided to try a 'Look' copy that has turned out to work excellent - Bike Nashbar's road bike pedals: http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10053&langId=-1&catalogId=10052&productId=554739&utm_source=Google_Product_Search&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=datafeed&cm_mmc=Google_Product_Search-_-PLA-_-Datafeed-_-Nashbar%20Alpe%20D'Huez%20Pedals&CAWELAID=400006960000107676&source=googleUS&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=25428001938&CATCI=pla-174912215058&catargetid=400006960000134371&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKEAjwgtTJBRDRmd6ZtLrGyxwSJAA7Fy-hohVUFwHcldbGb4oQ2bdElIaFv0p-6cJJLR09BlZPfBoCq0Lw_wcB

So for $34.99 for the pedals (I think they come with cleats), and then $60 to $90 for regular velcro-strapped road bike shoes, you're in the business and doing fine. I've used my $34.99 pedals for a few years now, and generally ride 43.5 miles on Saturday mornings with moderately fast groups or solo. They are fucking excellent for the money.

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Thanks! That's a good idea on switching out the pedals to get used to them. I thought falling on pavement was a right of passage!

Posted: 6/5/2017 9:36:52 AM EDT

[#29]

Maybe I misinterpreted what you wrote, but you said you wanted to get some "true" road bike tires for it? Those look like Conti 4000 tires already. You would be hard pressed find a better road/race type tire for your triathlon or training. Those are what the vast majority of riders use in every triathlon I have ever participated in.

Looks like a nice setup. Either get a bike fitting or do it yourself. Looks like you got a great bike!

Posted: 6/5/2017 9:52:16 AM EDT

[#30]

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Maybe I misinterpreted what you wrote, but you said you wanted to get some "true" road bike tires for it? Those look like Conti 4000 tires already. You would be hard pressed find a better road/race type tire for your triathlon or training. Those are what the vast majority of riders use in every triathlon I have ever participated in.

Looks like a nice setup. Either get a bike fitting or do it yourself. Looks like you got a great bike!

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You're right about the tires. I just researched them and they do look like a good tire for what I want. I had read that some people switch to a thinner tire for on the road and I just assumed I might want to do the same. From the looks of it, I don't think this bike has seen true cyclocross action so the tires on it were more road type than I expected. Again, I'm new to this so I definitely appreciate the heads up!

Posted: 6/5/2017 10:19:00 AM EDT

[#31]

I just put a new identical tire on my tri bike. Its a great all around training and racing tire.

I can't zoom those pedals enough to see what they are, but they look like SPD pedals. Ancient technology but workable. As said, more common on mtn bikes.

I think the best all around pedals in 2017 are Speedplay. Double side entry and super easy to learn. Jus stomp and go. The downside is the cleats are not "walkable" in coffee shops and the like. They slip and also may damage floors. They sell cleat covers for them for a fix but its a hassle to remember. Also the cleats may clog with mud walking on grass; a downside.for triathlon use. My daughter uses Speedplay and was expert in their use in ONE ride. And she's neve fallen dismounting.

Another good choice is Look and clones or the newer Look Keo. Single sided but much more walkable. You can even get walkable Keo cleats with rubberized corners. Look cleats don't clog with mud. I use Look Keo because my Garmin vector power meter pedals required them.

Before that I used Shimano SPD-SL which are a Look derivative. I have a used set in a drawer. If interested PM me for more details. I have used shoes and all sorts of extra stuff in drawers. I've been cycling since 2001. It builds up over time.

Posted: 6/5/2017 10:22:44 AM EDT

[#32]

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You're right about the tires. I just researched them and they do look like a good tire for what I want. I had read that some people switch to a thinner tire for on the road and I just assumed I might want to do the same. From the looks of it, I don't think this bike has seen true cyclocross action so the tires on it were more road type than I expected. Again, I'm new to this so I definitely appreciate the heads up!

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The reason it had MTB pedals is because it is a cyclocross bike. If you wanted to change the tires for a bit more comfort or gravel grinding on road tires you can easily get some 28 or 32 mm wide tires in there. If you plan on staying more on the road with it, you may want to see about changing the front chainring to a 52.

Posted: 6/5/2017 10:55:57 AM EDT

[#33]

Quote History

Quoted:
I just put a new identical tire on my tri bike. Its a great all around training and racing tire.

I can't zoom those pedals enough to see what they are, but they look like SPD pedals. Ancient technology but workable. As said, more common on mtn bikes.

I think the best all around pedals in 2017 are Speedplay. Double side entry and super easy to learn. Jus stomp and go. The downside is the cleats are not "walkable" in coffee shops and the like. They slip and also may damage floors. They sell cleat covers for them for a fix but its a hassle to remember. Also the cleats may clog with mud walking on grass; a downside.for triathlon use. My daughter uses Speedplay and was expert in their use in ONE ride. And she's neve fallen discounting.

Another good choice is Look and clones or the newer Look Leo. Single sided but much more walkable. You can even get walkable Keo cleats with rubberized corners. Look cleats don't clog with mud. I use Look Keo because my Garmin vector power meter pedals required them.

Before that I used Shimano SPD-SL which are a Look derivative. I have a used set in a drawer. If interested PM me for more details. I have used shoes and all sorts of extra stuff in drawers. I've been cycling since 2001. It builds up over time.

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You are correct, they are spd. I'll definitely take a look at the those recommendations. What's the difference/benefit of 3 bolt for road biking (if there is any)? It seems like 2 bolt is more mtb and 3 bolt is more road biking from what I've read.

Posted: 6/5/2017 11:29:34 AM EDT

[#34]

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You are correct, they are spd. I'll definitely take a look at the those recommendations. What's the difference/benefit of 3 bolt for road biking (if there is any)? It seems like 2 bolt is more mtb and 3 bolt is more road biking from what I've read.

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Larger plate area needs 3 bolts, but results in lower pounds per inch when pedaling which means you don't get a "hotspot" as a poster mentioned earlier. With thinner lighter road style shoes and a two bolt surface like SPD you can get a pressure point. That's why road cyclists prefer other than SPD.

Posted: 6/5/2017 11:51:01 AM EDT

[#35]

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Larger plate area needs 3 bolts, but results in lower pounds per inch when pedaling which means you don't get a "hotspot" as a poster mentioned earlier. With thinner lighter road style shoes and a two bolt surface like SPD you can get a pressure point. That's why road cyclists prefer other than SPD.

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That makes sense. Thanks again

Posted: 6/5/2017 4:43:55 PM EDT

[#36]

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The reason it had MTB pedals is because it is a cyclocross bike. If you wanted to change the tires for a bit more comfort or gravel grinding on road tires you can easily get some 28 or 32 mm wide tires in there. If you plan on staying more on the road with it, you may want to see about changing the front chainring to a 52.

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If I wanted to change the front chainring to a 52, would I need to stay with the same FSA brand or are others compatible? The more I look, the more confusing it gets. It looks like the bolt pattern and diameter have to match, but not sure about brand. If the brand doesn't have to match, any brand I should be looking at?

Posted: 6/5/2017 5:35:04 PM EDT

[#37]

You don't need to swap anything yet. Slow it down and see what meets your needs or fails to meet them. Go ride it first.

A 46 vs 52 means you don't have the gearing for high speed descents (you'll get to the highest you have and your leg rpm will be too high). Wait until you get tired of that before you worry about swapping chain rings.

Any reputable bike shop can tell you what parts fit. It changes all the time and year over year.

Posted: 6/5/2017 5:44:19 PM EDT

[#38]

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You don't need to swap anything yet. Slow it down and see what meets your needs or fails to meet them. Go ride it first.

A 46 vs 52 means you don't have the gearing for high speed descents (you'll get to the highest you have and your leg rpm will be too high). Wait until you get tired of that before you worry about swapping chain rings.

Any reputable bike shop can tell you what parts fit. It changes all the time and year over year.

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I wasn't changing it today, just curious how it works. I plan to ride this for a month or two before making any changes, other than maybe the pedals.

Posted: 6/5/2017 5:45:20 PM EDT

[#39]

I agree that the tires are fine.

Just so you know - for future plans and all - the trend with the pros and amateurs alike is to go for bigger road bike tires now. Where years age we were seeing 19's through 23's, now 25 is considered the minimum for road use, and 28's to 30's preferred for comfort.

Moreover, I didn't realize that Cannondale you bought was a cyclo-cross bike. Hell, that probably what I should have got for what is usually a shorter top tube, and thus a more upright fit.

You should be very happy about your purchase if it fits you.

Posted: 6/5/2017 7:07:42 PM EDT

[#40]

Great looking cross bike! Your going to be super happy with that one. IMHO, I wouldn't change anything on it as far as gearing goes. You WILL want to get a set of mini-V brakes for it. Canti's (even well adjusted ones) are marginal stoppers in good conditions and become pretty spotty when it's wet outside.

Posted: 6/5/2017 9:16:50 PM EDT

[#41]

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Quoted:

I wasn't changing it today, just curious how it works. I plan to ride this for a month or two before making any changes, other than maybe the pedals.

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All of the info you need for a replacement is on the chainring on your bike. The most important is the BCD. Yours is 110. There should be quite a few available in that size. If you decide to change it out you will need a new chain, and you will also need to move the derailleur up for the larger ring.

Posted: 6/6/2017 8:47:37 AM EDT

[#42]

Quote History

Quoted:
Those are mountain bike pedals. I started that way as I transitioned from mountain to road bike to save some expense of not have to buy new shoes too. Shortly there after bought the correct road pedals and shoes. Rides longer than 15 miles and you will get some hot spots, or numbness in your feet.

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HAHAHAHAHA- You roadies are pussies lol !!!!! We mountain bikers are tougher than that. I've got the same MB pedals on my mountain bike and road bike and raced both in 50+ mile races and never had any issues. We're a little bit tougher breed.

Posted: 6/6/2017 9:10:46 AM EDT

[#43]

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Quoted:

They are the only ones open..1-5.

Since you guys know way more than I do about bikes, what do you think about this?

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/bik/6144705775.html

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Nice ride. I wouldn't pay that much for it though...

Posted: 6/9/2017 11:09:06 AM EDT

[#44]

Took it out for a 15 mile ride in st Augustine. Put some new pedals on it. Definitely a weird feeling being clipped in vs having the freedom to move like I'm used too. I didn't feel fatigued at all during/after the ride. Only fell over once due to unclipping the right show at a red light on a left leaning hill

Definitely enjoyed the ride!

Posted: 6/9/2017 11:23:04 AM EDT

[#45]

Glad you enjoyed it. Btw I suggest always unclipping with the right foot. That way if you fall over you fall out of the traffic lane onto the sidewalk or shoulder.

I have seen left foot people u clip and fall into the traffic lane. Scary.

Posted: 6/9/2017 11:33:13 AM EDT

[#46]

Quote History

Quoted:
Glad you enjoyed it. Btw I suggest always unclipping with the right foot. That way if you fall over you fall out of the traffic lane onto the sidewalk or shoulder.

I have seen left foot people u clip and fall into the traffic lane. Scary.

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I'm left handed but i guess I'm right footed. It feels way more natural to unclip my right foot first. It's a weird feeling when you realized your about to tip over and there is nothing you can do about it!

Posted: 6/10/2017 7:45:50 AM EDT

[#47]

Quote History

Quoted:
Took it out for a 15 mile ride in st Augustine. Put some new pedals on it. Definitely a weird feeling being clipped in vs having the freedom to move like I'm used too. I didn't feel fatigued at all during/after the ride. Only fell over once due to unclipping the right show at a red light on a left leaning hill

Definitely enjoyed the ride!

View Quote

I think I fell over twice during my short experiment with clipless pedals.

This post reminded me of this video. At about 35 seconds in, a guy on a vintage MTB bites the dust, although I'm not 100% sure he's using clipless. The video was made at one of the Repack reunion rides and the guy he falls into is Charley Kelley, one of about four people responsible for the existence of the mountain bike. I wouldn't be surprised if the guy who fell was on a Ritchey that Charley originally sold back in the late 70's or early 80's.

The guy on the far right of the screenshot below is Joe Breeze and he built the first modern mountainbike, which is now in the Smithsonian. Near the end of the video, when they are all standing around talking, there is a nickel plated MTB behind Joe with diagonal bracing running across the frame. It is one of the first 10 mountain bikes ever built.

The guy making the video is riding Repack on a 1940 Schwinn cruiser....just like they did back in the 70's!

Repack 35 year reunion run

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8XOB4XpsBw

Posted: 6/10/2017 8:39:27 AM EDT

[#48]

Quote History

Quoted:
I think I fell over twice during my short experiment with clipless pedals.

This post reminded me of this video. At about 35 seconds in, a guy on a vintage MTB bites the dust, although I'm not 100% sure he's using clipless. The video was made at one of the Repack reunion rides and the guy he falls into is Charley Kelley, one of about four people responsible for the existence of the mountain bike. I wouldn't be surprised if the guy who fell was on a Ritchey that Charley originally sold back in the late 70's or early 80's.

The guy on the far right of the screenshot below is Joe Breeze and he built the first modern mountainbike, which is now in the Smithsonian. Near the end of the video, when they are all standing around talking, there is a nickel plated MTB behind Joe with diagonal bracing running across the frame. It is one of the first 10 mountain bikes ever built.

The guy making the video is riding Repack on a 1940 Schwinn cruiser....just like they did back in the 70's!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8XOB4XpsBw

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It was a very similar fall except I didn't stumble around. I expected what was happening and braced for impact

Posted: 6/10/2017 11:08:53 AM EDT

[#49]

Nice bike OP.

I bought my Cannondale Cyclocross new in 2004 and but 5000 miles on it by the end of 2006, but it's been mostly parked since then. Still a fantastic bike and does everything it needs to. One of the single best purchases in my life.

Posted: 6/10/2017 2:31:02 PM EDT

[#50]

Quote History

Quoted:
Took it out for a 15 mile ride in st Augustine. Put some new pedals on it. Definitely a weird feeling being clipped in vs having the freedom to move like I'm used too. I didn't feel fatigued at all during/after the ride. Only fell over once due to unclipping the right show at a red light on a left leaning hill

Definitely enjoyed the ride!

View Quote

When you unclip, don't stay seated, just waiting to roll to a stop and hope that the bike tips towards the side you unclipped. As you slow down, stand up on the leg that is still clipped in and move your torso forward of the saddle. Then you can easily shift your weight towards the unclipped side and lower your body towards the top tube.

It's easier to show than verbalize. It's the kind of thing that a 6 year old would just do without thinking, but as adults, we aren't so instinctive when it comes to staying upright.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Road bike - should I buy - update w/ pic on page 1

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