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Originally Posted By Jason280:
At some point, I hope to actually get mine to the range...;) Just ordered 5x boxes of FGMM 168s through Palmetto State, they had them on sale for $15.99/box....I haven't seen it that cheap in a long time. Too bad they didn't drop the 175s that cheap, I would have likely ordered a case. I have 3x .308s that I haven't even shot yet, so the FGMM should give me a good idea of what they are capable of before I start working up loads. View Quote Nothing to write home about, but for my first time behind it, with factory ammo, I'm okay with it. Attached File |
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I'm late, and it's too damn drunk for this.
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Rob3220:
"Walmart Ammo isn't good for anything. I don't think it even breaks skin. Rounds are made of compressed Jell-O, if I recall correctly." |
Back in stock at Palmetto State - Gen II in 6.5 Creedmoor for $1,199
http://palmettostatearmory.com/ruger-rifle-precision-bolt-action-6-5cm-gen-2-18008.html |
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The nine most terrifying words in the English language are, 'I'm from the government and I'm here to help.' - Ronald Reagan
Official Arfcom Callsign - "Hot Sauce" |
should have my PVA barrel from josh this week.
20" of 6.5 goodness |
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Visit my photo collection - http://www.flickr.com/photos/the-dorsal-fin
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I really wish there was a range in Virginia where I could shoot mine at distance
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Originally Posted By cone256:
I really wish there was a range in Virginia where I could shoot mine at distance View Quote C2 Shooting Center in Virginia Beach has range out to 300. C2 Shooting Center You might also give these guys a call - The Big Lick Longrifles 184 Private Drive N.W., Floyd VA 24091 (540) 763-2792 Access: Membership Sports: Muzzleloading, Outdoor Pistol (7 - 500 Yds.), Outdoor Rifle (25 - 500 yds), Pistol Silhouette, Rifle Silhouette, Skeet Is this info out of date? Make corrections. Found on this website - http://rangelistings.com/ |
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The nine most terrifying words in the English language are, 'I'm from the government and I'm here to help.' - Ronald Reagan
Official Arfcom Callsign - "Hot Sauce" |
My safety is stuck, it will not budge. What ever is causing the safety issue is also making it impossible to remove the lower assembly. I hope someone has a solution because I don't want to send it back to Ruger.
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PSN: Dikler
Callsign: Boom. |
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Originally Posted By TMM01:
It is stuck on fire. View Quote Other than that, it's just a spring in the reciever and the trigger pack that interact. Something (debris) may be jammed in there. I'm trying to see if there's a way to get it into safe another way than the switch. |
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PSN: Dikler
Callsign: Boom. |
Originally Posted By M4-AR:
Not to sound dumb, but have you tried cycling the bolt? Other than that, it's just a spring in the reciever and the trigger pack that interact. Something (debris) may be jammed in there. I'm trying to see if there's a way to get it into safe another way than the switch. View Quote |
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You said you cannot remove the lower from the receiver. What bolts did you remove?
To unbolt the lower from the receiver you need to remove the bolt in the front of the lower and at the rear. To access the one at the rear you need to fold the stock. The bolt in the middle of the lower just holds the lower together and does not bolt to the receiver. |
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Originally Posted By EzGoingKev:
You said you cannot remove the lower from the receiver. What bolts did you remove? To unbolt the lower from the receiver you need to remove the bolt in the front of the lower and at the rear. To access the one at the rear you need to fold the stock. The bolt in the middle of the lower just holds the lower together and does not bolt to the receiver. View Quote |
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PSN: Dikler
Callsign: Boom. |
Originally Posted By TMM01:
Yep, I have cycled the bolt. I also used some force to try and remove the lower assembly and put the safety on. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By TMM01:
Originally Posted By M4-AR:
Not to sound dumb, but have you tried cycling the bolt? Other than that, it's just a spring in the reciever and the trigger pack that interact. Something (debris) may be jammed in there. I'm trying to see if there's a way to get it into safe another way than the switch. How/when did this occur? |
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PSN: Dikler
Callsign: Boom. |
I'm late, and it's too damn drunk for this.
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Originally Posted By EzGoingKev:
You said you cannot remove the lower from the receiver. What bolts did you remove? To unbolt the lower from the receiver you need to remove the bolt in the front of the lower and at the rear. To access the one at the rear you need to fold the stock. The bolt in the middle of the lower just holds the lower together and does not bolt to the receiver. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By TMM01:
That is good to know, I may use more force to try and put it on safe. View Quote Also verify the safety is all the way seated into the lower. If it's not it'll hit the trigger pack preventing it from rotating |
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PSN: Dikler
Callsign: Boom. |
Originally Posted By M4-AR:
The lower won't separate with the safety in the fire position. View Quote |
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Bad picture of my RPR with my Vortex Razor HD 5-20x50 and Vortex rings
RPR with Vortex Razor HD 5-20x50 by John Hermesmeyer, on Flickr RPR with Vortex Razor HD 5-20x50 by John Hermesmeyer, on Flickr Vortex Razor HD 5-20x50 by John Hermesmeyer, on Flickr |
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Took my RPR put today with my new Vortex RAZOR HD 5-20x50 mil/mil and shot these groups
top 10 where factory ammo and the 30 below where my reloads 6.5 RPR and Vortex 6-11-17 by John Hermesmeyer, on Flickr 6.5 RPR and Vortex 6-11-17 by John Hermesmeyer, on Flickr 6.5 RPR and Vortex 6-11-17 by John Hermesmeyer, on Flickr each square is 1/4 inch with 4 being an inch |
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I'm late, and it's too damn drunk for this.
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Has anyone taken a 308 and chopped it down to 16 inch barrel and put on a 15 inch hand guard, say a MI?
I already have a long range 6.5 Creed bolt gun, but I've been thinking about something compact and in 308. You're looking at around 800 bucks as an entry point for a Remington 700 chassis that folds and does DMB, etc, and has a 15 inch hand guard. Wondering if I picked up a used Gen 1 308, had barrel cut to 16 inches and swapped the hand guard what it would look like and how it would balance? I will be running suppressed 99 percent of the time. I realize that not everyone thinks 16 inch bolts or 308s are worthwhile. |
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Palmetto State - Gen 2 RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor for $1,099 w/ Free Shipping -
http://palmettostatearmory.com/ruger-rifle-precision-bolt-action-6-5cm-gen-2-18008.html |
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The nine most terrifying words in the English language are, 'I'm from the government and I'm here to help.' - Ronald Reagan
Official Arfcom Callsign - "Hot Sauce" |
Originally Posted By bgrav321:
Has anyone taken a 308 and chopped it down to 16 inch barrel and put on a 15 inch hand guard, say a MI? I already have a long range 6.5 Creed bolt gun, but I've been thinking about something compact and in 308. You're looking at around 800 bucks as an entry point for a Remington 700 chassis that folds and does DMB, etc, and has a 15 inch hand guard. Wondering if I picked up a used Gen 1 308, had barrel cut to 16 inches and swapped the hand guard what it would look like and how it would balance? I will be running suppressed 99 percent of the time. I realize that not everyone thinks 16 inch bolts or 308s are worthwhile. View Quote He had to make an adaptor to mount the KMR. I've tried to get in touch with him about it as I would like to do something similar. |
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Thanks for the response, if anyone else is looking it is on page 48. Just sent him an email...thanks again!
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Is there a procedure or vid somewhere of removing the ejector? I have new PVA barrel in hand and from what I've read I should remove the ejector to feel the go gauge better but I can't find anything on exactly how to do it.
EDIT: Never mind. Josh gave me procedure to set the head space with the ejector in. |
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Originally Posted By EzGoingKev:
Spill the beans, what is the procedure? View Quote "Yep. I never pull extractors. Screw the barrel in til it stops on an empty chamber. Open the bolt, drop in the gauge. Close the bolt, rotate the barrel out til it just snaps the bolt closed. Once bolt is closed try to snug the barrel back into the gage just to be sure. Tighten the barrel nut. Done." |
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I just picked up a new Gen. 2 in 6.5 Creedmoor with leftover store-credit I had from some shooting matches. I still have to get an optic and rings, so I have been reading through this thread. A lot of good information to be found. One thing that is bothering me, though, is that the brake is clocked strangely. It looks like it could use another ten degrees of rotation. Is this normal? It seems like some that I see are similar, while some are clocked with the ports perfectly horizontal. I'm not too concerned, since I plan on changing it out at some point, but I figured I'd ask.
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Mine was timed wrong from the factory,I adjusted it but these things should have been attended to before shipping
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It"s not the severity of punishment,but the certainty of it that checks crime nowadays. Judge Parker
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Originally Posted By webman:
I just picked up a new Gen. 2 in 6.5 Creedmore with leftover store-credit I had from some shooting matches. I still have to get an optic and rings, so I have been reading through this thread. A lot of good information to be found. One thing that is bothering me, though, is that the brake is clocked strangely. It looks like it could use another ten degrees of rotation. Is this normal? It seems like some that I see are similar, while some are clocked with the ports perfectly horizontal. I'm not too concerned, since I plan on changing it out at some point, but I figured I'd ask. View Quote it's a 2-piece brake and it takes about 2 min to adjust properly. Shitty attention to detail but ruger. Mine also had a out of spec optic rail. |
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PSN: Dikler
Callsign: Boom. |
Originally Posted By M4-AR:
Mine was off. it's a 2-piece brake and it takes about 2 min to adjust properly. Shitty attention to detail but ruger. Mine also had a out of spec optic rail. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By PatrickB:
Hey, how did you recognize the optic rail was out of spec? I'm wondering if it was somehow obvious or do you have a method to check it? Thanks. View Quote I took my optic(Burris xtr2 w/ LaRue lt104) off another rifle until my razor came in. First I had to loosen the qd tabs on the mount a good bit to get it to lock on. Second bore sighting, I maxed out the scope. Got to the range and was having to hold off target to hit paper. After some irritating calls with ruger, they overnighted a new rail. I measured them and they were quite a bit off from each other. Also the original was offset and slightly crooked. Replacement one works fine now. |
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PSN: Dikler
Callsign: Boom. |
Originally Posted By M4-AR:
I couldn't hit paper @100. I took my optic(Burris xtr2 w/ LaRue lt104) off another rifle until my razor came in. First I had to loosen the qd tabs on the mount a good bit to get it to lock on. Second bore sighting, I maxed out the scope. Got to the range and was having to hold off target to hit paper. After some irritating calls with ruger, they overnighted a new rail. I measured them and they were quite a bit off from each other. Also the original was offset and slightly crooked. Replacement one works fine now. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By M4-AR:
Originally Posted By PatrickB:
Hey, how did you recognize the optic rail was out of spec? I'm wondering if it was somehow obvious or do you have a method to check it? Thanks. I took my optic(Burris xtr2 w/ LaRue lt104) off another rifle until my razor came in. First I had to loosen the qd tabs on the mount a good bit to get it to lock on. Second bore sighting, I maxed out the scope. Got to the range and was having to hold off target to hit paper. After some irritating calls with ruger, they overnighted a new rail. I measured them and they were quite a bit off from each other. Also the original was offset and slightly crooked. Replacement one works fine now. |
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Originally Posted By PatrickB:
Thanks! I'm new to this rifle and trying to learn all I can about it including things I need to check and verify. I zeroed at 100 yards and it was really close at 500 yards so I'm hoping my rail is OK. View Quote It's a neat rifle, as I get more time behind it, I'm sure I'm going to really like it. My wife really enjoys shooting it, even more now that it's suppressed. I actually still need to zero in my new razor, and start getting serious with it. |
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PSN: Dikler
Callsign: Boom. |
Originally Posted By M4-AR:
I think mine was a 1 in a 1000 deal. It's a neat rifle, as I get more time behind it, I'm sure I'm going to really like it. My wife really enjoys shooting it, even more now that it's suppressed. I actually still need to zero in my new razor, and start getting serious with it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By M4-AR:
Originally Posted By PatrickB:
Thanks! I'm new to this rifle and trying to learn all I can about it including things I need to check and verify. I zeroed at 100 yards and it was really close at 500 yards so I'm hoping my rail is OK. It's a neat rifle, as I get more time behind it, I'm sure I'm going to really like it. My wife really enjoys shooting it, even more now that it's suppressed. I actually still need to zero in my new razor, and start getting serious with it. |
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swingset
No one wants to eat right and exercise, and lower their stress levels, all of which will come in a lot more handy than a home defense carbine and chest rig ANIMUS Rude pricks need a serious traumatic life experience |
Are any of you guys using that aftermarket barrel nut that allows for standard handguard mounting?
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I'm late, and it's too damn drunk for this.
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Getting old sucks!
Picked up an RPR in 5.56/.223 for $1150 with bipod at my local gun shop. Mounted a Vortex viper from my Sako TRG with 1.45 vortex matched rings, Before I got to shoot it I had to have shoulder surgery!!!! Really excited to see how it performs. Got some Norma .223 77 grain match ammo to break it in and zero the scope. |
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Is there any reason Ruger would deliberately time the muzzle brakes "incorrectly" from the factory?
It seems mine and everyone else's are timed the same way. Having glanced through the rack at Dick's and Turner's it looks like they ALL come that way. I shot multiple groups with the brake in it's factory "offset" position and again in the "correct" position and there was no difference at all. |
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Offset to compensate for torsional rotation, maybe?
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The nine most terrifying words in the English language are, 'I'm from the government and I'm here to help.' - Ronald Reagan
Official Arfcom Callsign - "Hot Sauce" |
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Originally Posted By austinconnect:
Is there any reason Ruger would deliberately time the muzzle brakes "incorrectly" from the factory? It seems mine and everyone else's are timed the same way. Having glanced through the rack at Dick's and Turner's it looks like they ALL come that way. I shot multiple groups with the brake in it's factory "offset" position and again in the "correct" position and there was no difference at all. View Quote |
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While I'm here, I have a question about optics. I get pretty good pricing on Vortex stuff, and was looking at the Razor HD II in either 4.5-27 or 3-18. I will probably do most of my shooting with my 6.5 to 500 yards, although there is a 1-mile range relatively close to me. I know the old rule-of-thumb is 1x for every 100 yards, and I have pretty strong eyes. I'm wondering if the 4.5-27 would be overkill since I will probably just be ringing steel, or shooting silhouettes. Of course, the other part of me says to just go big, since I may end up wanting more power, later.
Any opinions? |
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Originally Posted By webman:
I'm wondering if the 4.5-27 would be overkill since I will probably just be ringing steel, or shooting silhouettes. Of course, the other part of me says to just go big, since I may end up wanting more power, later. Any opinions? View Quote |
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I'm late, and it's too damn drunk for this.
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Another RPR newb here, been thinking about getting a RPR in 6.5 for a while now and it seems the Gen 2s are coming down in price so thinking about biting the bullet.
My question is on glass, looking at the Vortex 6-24x50 but don't know what the difference is between the PST and the HST. What makes the PST $300 more and is it worth it? Am I better off buying once and crying once? OR should I really cry and go for the Razor Also, what's a good mount? What about reticles? Current range only goes to 200meters, but they intend to open it up to 400, then 600 then 1000meters(but there is no set date for when these distances will happen, they're moving dirt but it's a slow process for them as the budget allows). I haven't done much long range shooting because I haven't had a place to go, but if they follow through that will be changing. So don't want to get a scope that would be good for now but if I try to stretch it out as the range (and hopefully my skill) progress would need to be replaced later |
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