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Ruger Precision Rifle (Page 69 of 90)
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Link Posted: 5/27/2017 8:54:52 PM EDT
[#1]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Jason280:
At some point, I hope to actually get mine to the range...;)

Just ordered 5x boxes of FGMM 168s through Palmetto State, they had them on sale for $15.99/box....I haven't seen it that cheap in a long time.  Too bad they didn't drop the 175s that cheap, I would have likely ordered a case.  I have 3x .308s that I haven't even shot yet, so the FGMM should give me a good idea of what they are capable of before I start working up loads.
View Quote
Took mine out for the first time this morning. I forgot my box of 168s, but the 175s weren't bad.


Nothing to write home about, but for my first time behind it, with factory ammo, I'm okay with it.Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 5/28/2017 12:55:56 PM EDT
[#2]
Picked up a Harris S-L

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 6/1/2017 5:02:29 PM EDT
[#3]
Back in stock at Palmetto State - Gen II in 6.5 Creedmoor for $1,199

http://palmettostatearmory.com/ruger-rifle-precision-bolt-action-6-5cm-gen-2-18008.html
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 9:13:17 AM EDT
[#4]
should have my PVA barrel from josh this week.

20" of 6.5 goodness

Link Posted: 6/3/2017 9:52:37 AM EDT
[#5]
I really wish there was a range in Virginia where I could shoot mine at distance
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 11:26:33 AM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By cone256:
I really wish there was a range in Virginia where I could shoot mine at distance
View Quote


C2 Shooting Center in Virginia Beach has range out to 300.  C2 Shooting Center

You might also give these guys a call -
The Big Lick Longrifles
184 Private Drive N.W., Floyd VA 24091 (540) 763-2792
Access: Membership
Sports: Muzzleloading, Outdoor Pistol (7 - 500 Yds.), Outdoor Rifle (25 - 500 yds), Pistol Silhouette, Rifle Silhouette, Skeet Is this info out of date? Make corrections.

Found on this website - http://rangelistings.com/
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 5:59:43 PM EDT
[#7]
My safety is stuck, it will not budge.  What ever is causing the safety issue is also making it impossible to remove the lower assembly.  I hope someone has a solution because I don't want to send it back to  Ruger.
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 6:17:51 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TMM01:
My safety is stuck, it will not budge.  What ever is causing the safety issue is also making it impossible to remove the lower assembly.  I hope someone has a solution because I don't want to send it back to  Ruger.
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Is it stuck in safe or fire?
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 6:32:53 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4-AR:


Is it stuck in safe or fire?
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It is stuck on fire.
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 6:59:39 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TMM01:


It is stuck on fire.
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Not to sound dumb, but have you tried cycling the bolt?

Other than that, it's just a spring in the reciever and the trigger pack that interact.

Something (debris) may be jammed in there.

I'm trying to see if there's a way to get it into safe another way than the switch.
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 7:54:51 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4-AR:


Not to sound dumb, but have you tried cycling the bolt?

Other than that, it's just a spring in the reciever and the trigger pack that interact.

Something (debris) may be jammed in there.

I'm trying to see if there's a way to get it into safe another way than the switch.
View Quote
Yep, I have cycled the bolt. I also used some force to try and remove the lower assembly and put the safety on.
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 8:01:31 PM EDT
[#12]
You said you cannot remove the lower from the receiver. What bolts did you remove?

To unbolt the lower from the receiver you need to remove the bolt in the front of the lower and at the rear. To access the one at the rear you need to fold the stock.

The bolt in the middle of the lower just holds the lower together and does not bolt to the receiver.
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 8:14:35 PM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By EzGoingKev:
You said you cannot remove the lower from the receiver. What bolts did you remove?

To unbolt the lower from the receiver you need to remove the bolt in the front of the lower and at the rear. To access the one at the rear you need to fold the stock.

The bolt in the middle of the lower just holds the lower together and does not bolt to the receiver.
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The lower won't separate with the safety in the fire position.
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 8:16:41 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TMM01:
Yep, I have cycled the bolt. I also used some force to try and remove the lower assembly and put the safety on.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TMM01:
Originally Posted By M4-AR:


Not to sound dumb, but have you tried cycling the bolt?

Other than that, it's just a spring in the reciever and the trigger pack that interact.

Something (debris) may be jammed in there.

I'm trying to see if there's a way to get it into safe another way than the switch.
Yep, I have cycled the bolt. I also used some force to try and remove the lower assembly and put the safety on.
Not saying I'm advising it, but I may be tempted to tap the selector with a mallet, may pop it loose.

How/when did this occur?
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 9:08:43 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Finslayer83:
should have my PVA barrel from josh this week.

20" of 6.5 goodness

View Quote
I just got a barrel nut from him today.

Now I need to find a 15" G rail in DDC and see how well it works.
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 9:34:56 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By EzGoingKev:
You said you cannot remove the lower from the receiver. What bolts did you remove?

To unbolt the lower from the receiver you need to remove the bolt in the front of the lower and at the rear. To access the one at the rear you need to fold the stock.

The bolt in the middle of the lower just holds the lower together and does not bolt to the receiver.
View Quote
I removed the correct bolts.
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 9:36:44 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4-AR:


The lower won't separate with the safety in the fire position.
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That is good to know, I may use more force to try and put it on safe.
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 9:46:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: M4-AR] [#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TMM01:

That is good to know, I may use more force to try and put it on safe.
View Quote
I disassembled mine, can't find a way to actuate the safety bar(located on the trigger pack) without the lower off.

Also verify the safety is all the way seated into the lower. If it's not it'll hit the trigger pack preventing it from rotating
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 10:34:28 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4-AR:


The lower won't separate with the safety in the fire position.
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A hell of a lot of force was required but I got it.  I used a bit of compressed air to blow the crap out of the trigger group, lubed up the parts that control the safety and it is working again.  It still requires more force to engage than before but at least it is working.
Link Posted: 6/5/2017 12:47:44 AM EDT
[#20]
Bad picture of my RPR with my Vortex Razor HD 5-20x50 and Vortex rings
RPR with Vortex Razor HD 5-20x50 by John Hermesmeyer, on Flickr

RPR with Vortex Razor HD 5-20x50 by John Hermesmeyer, on Flickr

Vortex Razor HD 5-20x50 by John Hermesmeyer, on Flickr
Link Posted: 6/11/2017 7:50:21 PM EDT
[#21]
I finally found one of these for a decent deal this weekend.

picked up some factory ammo to put a zero on it while I wait for dies and bullets. Heck of a good shooter with factory ammo though.




5 rounds at 100 yards, I called the flier. My hand moved a little as the trigger broke.
Without the flier its a hair under half an inch

Link Posted: 6/11/2017 9:23:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: usmcchet9296] [#22]
Took my RPR put today with my new Vortex RAZOR HD 5-20x50 mil/mil and shot these groups
top 10 where factory ammo and the 30 below where my reloads
6.5 RPR and Vortex 6-11-17 by John Hermesmeyer, on Flickr

6.5 RPR and Vortex 6-11-17 by John Hermesmeyer, on Flickr

6.5 RPR and Vortex 6-11-17 by John Hermesmeyer, on Flickr

each square is 1/4 inch with 4 being an inch
Link Posted: 6/17/2017 4:08:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: secretwheelman] [#23]


Installed a Timney last night.
Link Posted: 6/18/2017 11:00:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TerryH] [#24]
Took the RPR plunge. My local gun shop got a 6.5CM for me. $1150.00. Also picked up his last Vortex Viper Gen I PST 6-24x50 for $699.00. Have it on Vortex 1.45" Precision rings. Been modding it ever since I got it. lol... These things are as bad as AR's! Added the Seekins rail, Timney trigger, Royal Arms International target grip, V Seven titanium selector, few other goodies. More on order. Decided that I'd get a 26" PVA barrel. Josh's stuff seems super nice. PVA Mad Scientist brake is ridiculously well machined and thought out.

Blew it apart last week and refinished everything. We use automotive bases. Straight up black with House of Kolor Passion Purple Pearl 2 tone with Cerakote MC-161 matte clear. Yes, I have a thing for purple. lol...

Couple of trips to my buddies house to shoot 100. Pretty decent groups for a new shooter with a new weapon. Shot Prime 130's and Hornady 120 ELD's. Good friend is going to do some loads for me with those casings so we'll see how those go when I get the new barrel.









Link Posted: 6/19/2017 11:58:37 AM EDT
[#25]
Has anyone taken a 308 and chopped it down to 16 inch barrel and put on a 15 inch hand guard, say a MI?

I already have a long range 6.5 Creed bolt gun, but I've been thinking about something compact and in 308. You're looking at around 800 bucks as an entry point for a Remington 700 chassis that folds and does DMB, etc, and has a 15 inch hand guard. Wondering if I picked up a used Gen 1 308, had barrel cut to 16 inches and swapped the hand guard what it would look like and how it would balance? I will be running suppressed 99 percent of the time.

I realize that not everyone thinks 16 inch bolts or 308s are worthwhile.
Link Posted: 6/20/2017 4:51:48 PM EDT
[#26]
Palmetto State - Gen 2 RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor for $1,099 w/ Free Shipping -

http://palmettostatearmory.com/ruger-rifle-precision-bolt-action-6-5cm-gen-2-18008.html
Link Posted: 6/20/2017 6:55:18 PM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bgrav321:
Has anyone taken a 308 and chopped it down to 16 inch barrel and put on a 15 inch hand guard, say a MI?

I already have a long range 6.5 Creed bolt gun, but I've been thinking about something compact and in 308. You're looking at around 800 bucks as an entry point for a Remington 700 chassis that folds and does DMB, etc, and has a 15 inch hand guard. Wondering if I picked up a used Gen 1 308, had barrel cut to 16 inches and swapped the hand guard what it would look like and how it would balance? I will be running suppressed 99 percent of the time.

I realize that not everyone thinks 16 inch bolts or 308s are worthwhile.
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There is a guy in the thread did something like that, put on a BCM KMR and had the gun cerakoted FDE.

He had to make an adaptor to mount the KMR.  I've tried to get in touch with him about it as I would like to do something similar.
Link Posted: 6/21/2017 7:53:27 AM EDT
[#28]
Thanks for the response, if anyone else is looking it is on page 48. Just sent him an email...thanks again!
Link Posted: 6/23/2017 12:20:48 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TerryH] [#29]
Is there a procedure or vid somewhere of removing the ejector? I have new PVA barrel in hand and from what I've read I should remove the ejector to feel the go gauge better but I can't find anything on exactly how to do it.

EDIT: Never mind. Josh gave me procedure to set the head space with the ejector in.
Link Posted: 6/26/2017 7:31:27 PM EDT
[#30]
I pronounce the RPR to be done after getting the PVA 26" barrel installed. Added the Wiebad cheek pad as well. It's also a very nice piece. Have shot a few rounds through it and it is certainly sweet. I still suck as a shooter. Feel like it's a single hole gun with a real shooter pulling the trigger. Much to learn. Much to practice.









Link Posted: 6/26/2017 8:26:59 PM EDT
[#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TerryH:
EDIT: Never mind. Josh gave me procedure to set the head space with the ejector in.
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Spill the beans, what is the procedure?
Link Posted: 6/26/2017 11:13:38 PM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By EzGoingKev:

Spill the beans, what is the procedure?
View Quote
Per email from Josh @ PVA...

"Yep. I never pull extractors.

Screw the  barrel in til it stops on an empty chamber.

Open the bolt, drop in the gauge.

Close the bolt, rotate the barrel out til it just snaps the bolt closed.

Once bolt is closed try to snug the barrel back into the gage just to be sure.

Tighten the barrel nut.

Done."
Link Posted: 6/28/2017 2:25:57 AM EDT
[Last Edit: CDPhD] [#33]
I just picked up a new Gen. 2 in 6.5 Creedmoor with leftover store-credit I had from some shooting matches.  I still have to get an optic and rings, so I have been reading through this thread.  A lot of good information to be found.  One thing that is bothering me, though, is that the brake is clocked strangely.  It looks like it could use another ten degrees of rotation.  Is this normal?  It seems like some that I see are similar, while some are clocked with the ports perfectly horizontal.  I'm not too concerned, since I plan on changing it out at some point, but I figured I'd ask.
Link Posted: 6/28/2017 5:39:56 AM EDT
[#34]
Mine was timed wrong from the factory,I adjusted it but these things should have been attended to before shipping
Link Posted: 6/28/2017 8:47:01 AM EDT
[#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By webman:
I just picked up a new Gen. 2 in 6.5 Creedmore with leftover store-credit I had from some shooting matches.  I still have to get an optic and rings, so I have been reading through this thread.  A lot of good information to be found.  One thing that is bothering me, though, is that the brake is clocked strangely.  It looks like it could use another ten degrees of rotation.  Is this normal?  It seems like some that I see are similar, while some are clocked with the ports perfectly horizontal.  I'm not too concerned, since I plan on changing it out at some point, but I figured I'd ask.
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Mine was off.

it's a 2-piece brake and it takes about 2 min to adjust properly.

Shitty attention to detail but ruger.

Mine also had a out of spec optic rail.
Link Posted: 6/28/2017 8:49:43 AM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4-AR:


Mine was off.

it's a 2-piece brake and it takes about 2 min to adjust properly.

Shitty attention to detail but ruger.

Mine also had a out of spec optic rail.
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Hey, how did you recognize the optic rail was out of spec?  I'm wondering if it was somehow obvious or do you have a method to check it?  Thanks.
Link Posted: 6/28/2017 9:28:29 AM EDT
[#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By PatrickB:


Hey, how did you recognize the optic rail was out of spec?  I'm wondering if it was somehow obvious or do you have a method to check it?  Thanks.
View Quote
I couldn't hit paper @100.

I took my optic(Burris xtr2 w/ LaRue lt104) off another rifle until my razor came in.

First I had to loosen the qd tabs on the mount a good bit to get it to lock on.

Second bore sighting, I maxed out the scope.

Got to the range and was having to hold off target to hit paper.

After some irritating calls with ruger, they overnighted a new rail. I measured them and they were quite a bit off from each other. Also the original was offset and slightly crooked. Replacement one works fine now.
Link Posted: 6/28/2017 9:40:35 AM EDT
[#38]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4-AR:
I couldn't hit paper @100.

I took my optic(Burris xtr2 w/ LaRue lt104) off another rifle until my razor came in.

First I had to loosen the qd tabs on the mount a good bit to get it to lock on.

Second bore sighting, I maxed out the scope.

Got to the range and was having to hold off target to hit paper.

After some irritating calls with ruger, they overnighted a new rail. I measured them and they were quite a bit off from each other. Also the original was offset and slightly crooked. Replacement one works fine now.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4-AR:
Originally Posted By PatrickB:


Hey, how did you recognize the optic rail was out of spec?  I'm wondering if it was somehow obvious or do you have a method to check it?  Thanks.
I couldn't hit paper @100.

I took my optic(Burris xtr2 w/ LaRue lt104) off another rifle until my razor came in.

First I had to loosen the qd tabs on the mount a good bit to get it to lock on.

Second bore sighting, I maxed out the scope.

Got to the range and was having to hold off target to hit paper.

After some irritating calls with ruger, they overnighted a new rail. I measured them and they were quite a bit off from each other. Also the original was offset and slightly crooked. Replacement one works fine now.
Thanks! I'm new to this rifle and trying to learn all I can about it including things I need to check and verify.  I zeroed at 100 yards and it was really close at 500 yards so I'm hoping my rail is OK.
Link Posted: 6/28/2017 9:53:57 AM EDT
[#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By PatrickB:


Thanks! I'm new to this rifle and trying to learn all I can about it including things I need to check and verify.  I zeroed at 100 yards and it was really close at 500 yards so I'm hoping my rail is OK.
View Quote
I think mine was a 1 in a 1000 deal.

It's a neat rifle, as I get more time behind it, I'm sure I'm going to really like it.

My wife really enjoys shooting it, even more now that it's suppressed.

I actually still need to zero in my new razor, and start getting serious with it.
Link Posted: 6/28/2017 10:40:03 AM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4-AR:
I think mine was a 1 in a 1000 deal.

It's a neat rifle, as I get more time behind it, I'm sure I'm going to really like it.

My wife really enjoys shooting it, even more now that it's suppressed.

I actually still need to zero in my new razor, and start getting serious with it.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4-AR:
Originally Posted By PatrickB:


Thanks! I'm new to this rifle and trying to learn all I can about it including things I need to check and verify.  I zeroed at 100 yards and it was really close at 500 yards so I'm hoping my rail is OK.
I think mine was a 1 in a 1000 deal.

It's a neat rifle, as I get more time behind it, I'm sure I'm going to really like it.

My wife really enjoys shooting it, even more now that it's suppressed.

I actually still need to zero in my new razor, and start getting serious with it.
Good thing it wasn't the receiver. Usually when I hear complaints like yours it's because they boogered the mounting holes. Not quite as easy a fix.
Link Posted: 6/30/2017 7:12:39 PM EDT
[#41]
Are any of you guys using that aftermarket barrel nut that allows for standard handguard mounting?
Link Posted: 7/1/2017 9:43:42 AM EDT
[#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Postal0311:
Are any of you guys using that aftermarket barrel nut that allows for standard handguard mounting?
View Quote
I have one, but I haven't decided on a handguard to use with it yet.
Link Posted: 7/1/2017 3:31:33 PM EDT
[#43]
Getting old sucks!
Picked up an RPR in 5.56/.223 for $1150 with bipod at my local gun shop. Mounted a Vortex viper from my Sako TRG with 1.45 vortex matched rings, Before I got to shoot it I had to have shoulder surgery!!!! Really excited to see how it performs. Got some Norma .223 77 grain match ammo to break it in and zero the scope.
Link Posted: 7/1/2017 4:29:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: austinconnect] [#44]
Is there any reason Ruger would deliberately time the muzzle brakes "incorrectly" from the factory?

It seems mine and everyone else's are timed the same way. Having glanced through the rack at Dick's and Turner's it looks like they ALL come that way.

I shot multiple groups with the brake in it's factory "offset" position and again in the "correct" position and there was no difference at all.
Link Posted: 7/1/2017 5:02:36 PM EDT
[#45]
Offset to compensate for torsional rotation, maybe?
Link Posted: 7/1/2017 10:40:31 PM EDT
[#46]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Finslayer83:
should have my PVA barrel from josh this week.

20" of 6.5 goodness

View Quote
What made you decide to go with a 20" barrel?
Link Posted: 7/1/2017 11:23:29 PM EDT
[#47]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By austinconnect:
Is there any reason Ruger would deliberately time the muzzle brakes "incorrectly" from the factory?

It seems mine and everyone else's are timed the same way. Having glanced through the rack at Dick's and Turner's it looks like they ALL come that way.

I shot multiple groups with the brake in it's factory "offset" position and again in the "correct" position and there was no difference at all.
View Quote
My new rifle was the same.  Many of the pictures I have seen of the rifle were also the same.  However, I haven't found an official answer as to whether or not that is intentional.  I also don't know that it would provide any advantage, considering it is a symmetrical brake with no top ports.
Link Posted: 7/1/2017 11:45:19 PM EDT
[#48]
While I'm here, I have a question about optics.  I get pretty good pricing on Vortex stuff, and was looking at the Razor HD II in either 4.5-27 or 3-18.  I will probably do most of my shooting with my 6.5 to 500 yards, although there is a 1-mile range relatively close to me.  I know the old rule-of-thumb is 1x for every 100 yards, and I have pretty strong eyes.  I'm wondering if the 4.5-27 would be overkill since I will probably just be ringing steel, or shooting silhouettes.  Of course, the other part of me says to just go big, since I may end up wanting more power, later.

Any opinions?
Link Posted: 7/2/2017 9:28:00 AM EDT
[#49]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By webman:
I'm wondering if the 4.5-27 would be overkill since I will probably just be ringing steel, or shooting silhouettes.  Of course, the other part of me says to just go big, since I may end up wanting more power, later.

Any opinions?
View Quote
I went with the 4.5-27 for that reason.
Link Posted: 7/2/2017 10:04:41 AM EDT
[#50]
Another RPR newb here, been thinking about getting a RPR in 6.5 for a while now and it seems the Gen 2s are coming down in price so thinking about biting the bullet.

My question is on glass, looking at the Vortex 6-24x50 but don't know what the difference is between the PST and the HST. What makes the PST $300 more and is it worth it? Am I better off buying once and crying once? OR should I really cry and go for the Razor

Also, what's a good mount?
What about reticles?

Current range only goes to 200meters, but they intend to open it up to 400, then 600 then 1000meters(but there is no set date for when these distances will happen, they're moving dirt but it's a slow process for them as the budget allows). I haven't done much long range shooting because I haven't had a place to go, but if they follow through that will be changing. So don't want to get a scope that would be good for now but if I try to stretch it out as the range (and hopefully my skill) progress would need to be replaced later
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Ruger Precision Rifle (Page 69 of 90)
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