I replaced the factory stock with the Boyd's Tacticool Pro Varmint stock and DIP bottom metal.

I haven't bedded the stock or made any modifications, and I'm getting 2-3 MOA at 100 yards.

Is this expected for not making any modifications?  Will glass/pillar bedding my stock really bring it down to 1 or sub-1 MOA, or am I the problem?

I always shoot suppressed using CCI SV rounds and use a Nikon 4-12x scope.

Any tips, tricks or input you have is appreciated!

I have a Savage Mark II FV-SR in a Boyd's Tacticool stock, with DIP metal and a Mueller APT 4.5-14x on a 20 or 25 MOA rail.

CCI SV is good ammo, but I'd try CCI Green Tag and several actual match grade rounds. Also try shooting at 50 yards and see if that makes a noticeable improvement - 22 can get off course pretty easily.  I'm not a great shot, but sub 1" groups at 50 yards is easily possible with ammo it likes.  Backing out to 100 yards sees my groups open up a little from what the 50 yard results would indicate.  They're typically under 3" but I don't recall shooting under a 2" group.  I've seen guys claim sub moa accuracy at 100 yards - either they really have things figured out or they're fudging things in one way or another.

I'd take the above posters advice and see what you do at 50yds.  Mine loves the CCI SV and Gemtech ammo.  Easy 1/2" groups at 50yds.

If the wind is blowing and you're stringing horizontally, maybe. If it's vertical as well, no.



For several guns in my experience, CCI MiniMags do fairly well up to 100yds. Probably 1.5 MOA capable.



I'm trying to remember what 72coupe uses.  I think Lapua Center-X or Wolf Match.

I've never used a suppressor, but I shoot a lot of rimfire through a few rimfire benchrest guns.  If you need to know how good it shoots at either 50 or 100 yards, lose the suppressor until you do.  It cannot enhance accuracy.  A good solid rest and gun position, as well as high quality ammunition that is standard speed is required.  And if you can, use a higher power scope for testing.  Once you know how good the gun is by itself, then go back to your initial configuration and see what the change is, or is there is one.

I think that's about the first time I've heard that.  I think suppressors help group sizes more than anything, at least from my readings and using my Form 1 cans.  

But I will say, it probably wouldn't hurt to shoot some groups with and without your suppressor just to see.

I only say they cannot enhance accuracy because benchrest shooters don't use them.  Benchrest is the lunatic fringe for any accuracy enhancement known to man.  If muzzle devices other than tuners held accuracy improvements they would use them.  Benchrest shooters don't use muzzle brakes, flash hiders or suppression devices.

That's not to say that a suppressor might not help a given shooter shoot smaller groups, but my statement was that in and of itself, it does not physically do anything to enhance mechanical accuracy.

These kinds of posts come up all the time. A little perspective:

If your rifle/ammo combo can consistently do 2 moa (2") @ 100yds you a setup that will not only to be competitive but be a national champion. Same goes for the 1/2" crowd @ 50yds.

Sorta makes you wonder why these guys go out and spend thousands of dollars of rifles and $5000+ on cases of ammo that actually do go out and compete????

Anyway, a chronograph is your friend. A 2nd rimfire firearm is your friend. Starting @ 25yds is your friend.

Chronograph:
Shoot everything over a chronograph until you get a good picture/baseline of what the rifle is doing. Bring and use a 2nd rimfirre firearm that is known/proven to be acceptable to your shooting accuracy standards. Alternate between the 2 firearms when testing and shoot equal #'s of shots thru each firearm. Why burn ammo doing this??? You're looking for consistency namely consistent ignition. Example: You shoot 200 rounds thru each firearm and the known firearm has a sd of 28fps with 4 or 5 that extreme (80fps+). The savage has a sd of 32fps with the same ammo but has 17+ extreme shots. This is telling you you have an ignition/mechanical issue with the savage. The only way to find this out quickly is with a chronograph. Otherwise it takes a lot of range time, head scratching, etc to figure it out. Typically when I get a new rimfire I take the bolt apart and polish all the internals, reshape the fp and replace the striker spring with a extra power spring. The end result is consistent ignition & typical results of doing this is a 35% to 40% reduction in group size in common (low $$$$) firearms like savages, cz's, 10-22's, etc.
2nd rimfire:
Not only does it come in handy when testing for consistent ignition. It will show you if you're having a equipment problem (rest/table/etc) or a technique issue. It will show if it's shooter related compared to firearm related issues. Shoot bugholes with 1 firearm and spray with another it's time to look at the equipment such as scopes/rings/mounts/height or pressure from crawling the stock on 1 setup. How well a firearm rides the bags and where it rides the bags are just some of the things the 2nd firearm will tell you.
Shooting @ 25yds:
This will take the wind & lesser grades of ammo out of play. This is where most of your testing/tuning should be done. You're looking for bugholes in the targets. I typically shoot 5-shot groups when tuning rifles @ 25yds. Start by establishing a baseline and sighting in the rifle for 25yds. Shoot some groups then start testing/adjusting the torques on your action screws 1 screw at a time. Pay attention to what the groups are doing. You want round groups, vertical groups ='s too tight of action screws, horizontal ='s too loose. This will also tell you about your stock and bedding of that stock. Get to where you have the best round tight groups that you can get and then put a piece of 3/8" to 1/2" wide strips of rubber bands under the bbl in the tip of the stock and redo you action screw tightening tests. This will tell you how that firearm will perform with the action bedded.

Great, now you know you have no ignition issues (bad ignition causes fliers), you've found the best torque setting for your receiver/stock combo & you've bedded the stock if needed. Now it's time to step out and test @ 50yds then 100yds. It's down to the ammo testing now and you should try to do you testing on calm/no wind days or do as everyone else does, try shooting when you have the same wind conditions.

Baseline 1st, dial in the mechanical aspects of the rifle/scope/rests and then the ammo.

2 extremely important pieces of equipment for smallbore. A torque wrench and prone stand.
Shooters re-set the torques on their rifles at the beginning of every match. If you think the action screws will have the same torque when you set them 2 weeks ago when it was 75* out and you were in the shade and today you'll be in the sun and it's 86* out. A prone stand or bi-pod keeps the firearm upright so the sights or scope doesn't get bumped/moved.

Tons of good info, thanks. I will try this out.

2 MOA at 100 yards is damn good for .22 ammo.

A 36 or 40 grain round nose bullet with a terrible BC launched at low velocity with comparatively inconsistent ignition?  And CCI, which is good ammo, is still cheap ammo compared to any centerfire rifle.

Its a goddamn mirace its doing that good.

Click this link and print out some targets. 22lr Tack Driving Range Game

1/2 inch rings at 50 yards and 1 inch rings for 100 yards. It's good fun.

My FVSR does around 2-3 moa at 100yd using federal auto match.  My rifle is bone stock with a Mueller APT and caldwell bipod and caldwell rear bag.

I am thrilled to see under 2.5 MOA with my Savage (tacticool, non bedded). I was shooting this today and an HS Precision - the HS was easily shooting .75 MOA, the Savage was holding about 3 inches.

That's about on par with my Mark II TR with non-match ammo.  If I'm on my game, it does better with Wolf and Ely Match, but that's far more dependent on me than the ammo or gun TBH.    I have a fine collection of clay pigeons with a single .22-cal hole in or very near the center that were on the 100-yard berm.

By comparison, my 93R17-BV does a little better at 100-200 than the .22, but since it's a much faster round, it's a bit more consistent and easier for the average bear to get better accuracy.  The 22 is a lot of fun to plink 200-yard steel with though.  

Rimfires can be notoriously "ammo picky" and action screw torque sensitive as a couple of guys alluded to earlier... I have had decent results with the CCI standard velocity but my CZ absolutely hammers with SK Standard Plus and my Savage really liked Wolf Match Extra. Definitely worth picking up a few boxes of match grade standard velocity ammo to try out!

Care to post a source and some data to back that up? I've never heard anything like that from any precision shooter. In fact, most do shoot suppressed.

Try different ammo types and see what happens. My FV-SR doesn't like CCI 40gr RN SV at all, but it absolutely loves CCI 36gr HP Minimags. It also doesn't like Wolf, which has an amazing reputation for most other rifles. I also have a few different types of Eley that I need to try and see how they do.

lots of people like to claim that since benchrest shooters don't use it, it doesn't help accuracy.