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Posted: 10/26/2014 7:05:00 PM EDT
So i'm just starting to get into precision shooting and got myself a Savage MK II FV-SR. The comb height is very low and even with my burris tactical low rings I have to have my head pretty high on the stock in order to see through the scope. I was looking at getting either or a cheek riser or a new stock and am leaning towards the new stock. I've seen a lot of recommendations for the Boyd's tacticool stock. Any other suggestions besides that one? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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"We all make choices in life, but in the end our choices make us."
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[#1]
The "best" stock for a Mk.II is probably a Manners T4.
That said, for $100 the Tacticool is very hard to beat. I have one on a FV-SR and it suits me very well. |
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[#2]
I agree.
I forget which model my Savage is but it came with the Tacticool. Well worth the 100 bucks. |
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"You know what I think, don't really matter what I think. Once that first bullet goes past your head, politics and all that shit, just goes right out the window." -Hoot
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[#3]
A wealth of info (84 pages worth) in this thread: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_11/334696_savage_mark_2__edit_op__4_28_12.html
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Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.
Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement. |
[#4]
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[#5]
Happy with my Boyds as well.
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[#6]
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"You know what I think, don't really matter what I think. Once that first bullet goes past your head, politics and all that shit, just goes right out the window." -Hoot
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[#7]
Another vote for Boyd's, though the call it the ProVarmint now. Does not dimish its tacticool flavor however.
Also get the upgrade kit form DPI, well worth it. |
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[#8]
Originally Posted By ikevin:
Another vote for Boyd's, though the call it the ProVarmint now. Does not dimish its tacticool flavor however. Also get the upgrade kit form DPI, well worth it. View Quote Yep. The nylon spacers under the action screws were a big plus too. Mine is a nice little shooter. Stock up on cci Std and wolf target. |
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Not. One. More. Inch.
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[#9]
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I wouldn't stand in front of a piss-filled supersoaker. Does that make it a good pistol? - Caboose314
Trying to scrub the crazy out of a Snowleopard thread makes dividing by zero look easy - Tater |
[#11]
After you guys sharing build savage .22 I think I need to reconsider my options. I started my collecting backwards, I am currently waiting for my tax stamps before I get my host.
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[Last Edit: thisisdudewhoru]
[#12]
Originally Posted By backpacker21:
Yet another vote for the Boyds "Tacticool" now called the Pro Varmint. I believe the upgrade he's referring to is the DIP hardware (Diversified Innovative Products) which has a superior Trigger Guard and Bottom metal (but I've been wrong before). Also, the spacer mod is a must and is very easy and inexpensive. http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy339/shellrob21/IMG_8287-Copy_zps7c37c283.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By backpacker21:
Yet another vote for the Boyds "Tacticool" now called the Pro Varmint. I believe the upgrade he's referring to is the DIP hardware (Diversified Innovative Products) which has a superior Trigger Guard and Bottom metal (but I've been wrong before). Also, the spacer mod is a must and is very easy and inexpensive. http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy339/shellrob21/IMG_8287-Copy_zps7c37c283.jpg Originally Posted By AR167:
Originally Posted By ikevin:
Another vote for Boyd's, though the call it the ProVarmint now. Does not dimish its tacticool flavor however. Also get the upgrade kit form DPI, well worth it. Yep. The nylon spacers under the action screws were a big plus too. Mine is a nice little shooter. Stock up on cci Std and wolf target. Spacer mod? I was gonna buy the Boyd stock kit from dip that comes with the bottom metals too. But I didn't see any mention of a spacer mod |
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[#13]
"Thisisdude..." the spacer addition is an add-on you do yourself to close
the gap between the bottom metal and the wood of the stock allowing you to apply more inch pounds of torque to keep your barreled action from movement. I found my nylon spacers at Lowes in the hardware departments' misc. hardware display section. I found that space is not dimensionally the same for each gun Savage makes. My 93 mic'ed right at .25" so that was the spacer I bought. You may have to shave some so start out proud. DIP bottom metal is much better than the trash Savage ships on these guns. Ted |
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[#14]
Originally Posted By AFSC2W171Z:
"Thisisdude..." the spacer addition is an add-on you do yourself to close the gap between the bottom metal and the wood of the stock allowing you to apply more inch pounds of torque to keep your barreled action from movement. I found my nylon spacers at Lowes in the hardware departments' misc. hardware display section. I found that space is not dimensionally the same for each gun Savage makes. My 93 mic'ed right at .25" so that was the spacer I bought. You may have to shave some so start out proud. DIP bottom metal is much better than the trash Savage ships on these guns. Ted View Quote Awesome thanks. I ordered my mk2 fv-sr today. Already have glass. Can, then stock while I wait on can. Handled one at the lgs today and factory stock is garbage lol |
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[Last Edit: kVon]
[#15]
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[#16]
Does anyone make a rail section for the Boyd stock that lines up with the sling stud holes? I'd like to use a atlas bipod on qd mount
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[#17]
You could just buy and install a kydex cheek riser from DIP
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[#18]
Originally Posted By thisisdudewhoru:
Does anyone make a rail section for the Boyd stock that lines up with the sling stud holes? I'd like to use a atlas bipod on qd mount View Quote Dude, I removed all sling studs on my Cabelas' Savage M93 in .17HMR. Under the forend I used the forward most hole for the forward mounting hole on the Blackhawk rail section I used. With the barreled action removed and, using the temporarily mounted rail as a template, drill all the way through the wood. Then using a drill a bit larger than the nut and washer of the bolts you need for mounting, counter-bore so that the nut doesn't intrude beyond the radius of the barrel channel. You don't need the bolt/nut hitting the barrel! I use nylocks for nuts. On the toe, I used a short rail section and wood screws to attach. For sling points I drilled holes for Uncle Mikes quick release sling sockets on the left side of the butt and forend. I used wood screws and epoxy to ensure the fit was permanent. Caution: Don't epoxy the sockets in until you are sure the socket will hold with your push button swivels, otherwise you just made for a messy removal job. Take your time, it is an easy straight forward job. Ted |
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[#19]
Originally Posted By AFSC2W171Z:
Dude, I removed all sling studs on my Cabelas' Savage M93 in .17HMR. Under the forend I used the forward most hole for the forward mounting hole on the Blackhawk rail section I used. With the barreled action removed and, using the temporarily mounted rail as a template, drill all the way through the wood. Then using a drill a bit larger than the nut and washer of the bolts you need for mounting, counter-bore so that the nut doesn't intrude beyond the radius of the barrel channel. You don't need the bolt/nut hitting the barrel! I use nylocks for nuts. On the toe, I used a short rail section and wood screws to attach. For sling points I drilled holes for Uncle Mikes quick release sling sockets on the left side of the butt and forend. I used wood screws and epoxy to ensure the fit was permanent. Caution: Don't epoxy the sockets in until you are sure the socket will hold with your push button swivels, otherwise you just made for a messy removal job. Take your time, it is an easy straight forward job. Ted View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By AFSC2W171Z:
Originally Posted By thisisdudewhoru:
Does anyone make a rail section for the Boyd stock that lines up with the sling stud holes? I'd like to use a atlas bipod on qd mount Dude, I removed all sling studs on my Cabelas' Savage M93 in .17HMR. Under the forend I used the forward most hole for the forward mounting hole on the Blackhawk rail section I used. With the barreled action removed and, using the temporarily mounted rail as a template, drill all the way through the wood. Then using a drill a bit larger than the nut and washer of the bolts you need for mounting, counter-bore so that the nut doesn't intrude beyond the radius of the barrel channel. You don't need the bolt/nut hitting the barrel! I use nylocks for nuts. On the toe, I used a short rail section and wood screws to attach. For sling points I drilled holes for Uncle Mikes quick release sling sockets on the left side of the butt and forend. I used wood screws and epoxy to ensure the fit was permanent. Caution: Don't epoxy the sockets in until you are sure the socket will hold with your push button swivels, otherwise you just made for a messy removal job. Take your time, it is an easy straight forward job. Ted Exactly what I did to mount my ADM/Atlas to my Boyds stock. |
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meh
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[Last Edit: 4weelin]
[#20]
Originally Posted By thisisdudewhoru:
Does anyone make a rail section for the Boyd stock that lines up with the sling stud holes? I'd like to use a atlas bipod on qd mount View Quote Seekins Precision SRS Rail made for the Bell & Carlson Stock, Same bolt pattern as the sling studs. That's what my Larue/Atlas bipod is mounted to. Only place I could find these in stock at the time was SWFA |
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NRA,GOA,GOCRA,MNGOPAC,IFC
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