Here is the complete list of everything I have researched w/ current prices.

Looking for input on this list of equipment. My goal is producing the best ammo, so please keep that in mind. I would prefer the better equipment upfront (buy once, cry once).

I am looking to reload 308 only to start, match grade.

Equipment:

Forster Coax Single Stage Press - $290
Giraud Tri-way Trimmer - $98
Dillon Eliminator Beam Scale - $80
Redding 3 BR Combo Powder Meausre - $200
Redding powder trickler - $26
Redding powder measure stand - $38


Dies:

Forster 308 national match ultra micrometer seating die - $80
Forster 308 national match sizing die - $39

Tools:

Wilson 308 case gage depth micrometer - $75
Hornady Digital Calipers - $29

Accessories:

Hornady 308 modified case - $6
Hornady Anvil Base Kit - $15
Hornady 30 cal bullet comparator insert - $23
Hornady head space gage kit - $39

Satern Custom 30 cal funnel - $13
MTM Loading Tray - $6
MTM Flip Top - $5

Redding Imperial Die Wax - $10

K&M Primer Pocket Uniformer - $22
VLD Chamfering Tool - $30
Flash Hole Uniforming Tool - $15

Lyman Scale Check Weight Kit - $40


This is what I have so far. What could be done cheaper without sacrificing quality? What could be done better for more money? What am I missing altogether? Is there any overlap that I could eliminate?

I am new so forgive me if there is overlap or I am speaking stupid about something. I have reloaded before but only using a progressive and on my step-fathers equipment so I don't know all the technical terms yet. I am smart and will catch on fast but could use help in narrowing this equipment list or adding to it if need be.

The total is $1179 so far without a digital scale. I am thinking the beam scale is best bet to start and the most accurate? Thoughts? I was looking at a GemPro 250 as well.

Not seeing a tumbler w/media on your list, or media separator.

Also I would get a dial caliper instead of a cheap digital. My cheap digital caliper had to much drift for my liking and I did not have much confidence in it.

I would also pass on the Wilson Case Gauge Depth Micrometer and just use the Hornady Headspace Comparator.

If you want to keep prices down look on the EE for good condition used stuff, especially the more expensive stuff like the dies and press.

You don't need two headspace gages. I like Mo DeFina's .308 gages better than anything else on the market. They are cheaper than Wilson's and better than RCBS's.

The cheapest headspace gage is Hornady's Lock-N-Load system and with Sinclair International's bump gage inserts it's a top quality option. It will measure 90% of the cartridges commonly in use which saves you a boat load of money over buying caliber specific gages.

Your equipment choices are top quality and you won't regret buying them in the long run. I would not but $30 electronic caliper. Decent old school dial calipers can be found at that price point, good electronic calipers cost significantly more.

I personal would go with a RCBS Rock Chucker, a Redding Boss or Big Boss, or Lee Classic Cast press over the model you have chosen. Not because they are better (they aren't worse) but because of ergonomics. I don't like the idea of reaching up to pull the lever. The presses I like better have the added benefit of being considerably cheaper.

Looks like a really good start! I'd get a RCBS chargermaster 1500 over the Redding powder measure and the Dillon beam scale. The reason being chances are you'll be using a stick powder such as Varget for the 308. With a stick powder it doesn't matter what brand powder measure. Every charge will be different requiring you to trickle up to the exact weight you want and that's going to get old real fast on a beam scale. So you basically have to accept the inconsistency in powder charges or take a very long time to load consistent charges. The Chargemaster will probably be more consistent and definitely faster. I also wouldn't waste the money on the Wilson headspace tool the Hornady headspace tool that attaches to the caliper will accomplish the same thing. Don't forget a priming tool and a tumbler to clean the brass.

So I have been hearing good things about the Chargemaster 1500. However, lets say I want to load H4350, or H1000, or Varget. Can I count on it consistently to be accurate? I was thinking I would use a system like that but double check each load w/ a beam scale for ultimate accuracy? I am not looking to load 500 rounds a week, realistically, 40-50 rounds per week. Thoughts on that?

Chargemaster is a necessity for me at this point. No beam scale.

I don't recall ever buying a gauge.


These calipers are awesome compared to the typical China digitals


https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1489145576&sr=8-9&keywords=Calipers&tag=vglnk-c102-20

The Chargemaster 1500 will be consistent across different powders. I don't think its necessary to weigh a charge from the Chargemaster on a beam scale to check accuracy. Just calibrate it before use and then use the check weights to make sure it's measuring accurately. Then you can just check periodically with a check weight to make sure it's still weighing accurately during the loading process.

Lets say you are loading, you check weight and its good. Load 5 rounds and check weight and its off. Scrap all 5 and start over? How common is that do you think?

I cant speak for how common it is for the Chargemaster to be off, but what would matter more is how much is it off. If its only a few tenths of a grain, I wouldn't worry about it. Closer to .5grs or more, assuming you are in the middle or low end, I would either separate and use them for blasting or start over.

RCBS Master Kit

Start here, gives most of what you need. Get your Forster seater, Honady comparitor, a dial caliper, Redding trickler and you will be making quality ammo for about $400. When you get going you can add things you feel you need.
There is no reason to ever "upgrade" to a Forster CoAx, so it isn't like you will be wasting money or buying twice.

You're never going to get everything in one shot and trying to is wasted energy.

Start with a basic setup like what comes in a kit

As you get going you'll start to get a feel for what you need and avoid having bought a bunch of useless junk.

I own a Lee 9mm case trimmer because of over thinking things when I started (I know I'm not the only one)


Your list looks pretty good. My point is don't sit around agonizing about it since once you get started it will be much clearer what you really need

I put off getting started reloading for a long time because I couldn't settle on what I thought I needed

I'd start with the powder measure like you listed. You'll end up using it regardless

40 to 50 rounds a week there's no need for a chargmaster

Once you get going you can determine if it's something you really need or not

Eta: a good example of what I'm talking about is where you mention getting an electronic scale. Then maybe a chargmaster. There's overlap there. If you buy a gem pro right away then end up buying a chargmaster you've essentially wasted money on the gem pro. Whereas a beam scale will always be useful.

I'd recommend the chargemaster too. By the time you buy a powder measure, scale, and trickier you can just get the chargemaster. You won't have to screw with dialing in a powder measure to just get it close then trickle up. The chargemaster does the work for you. If you ever want to do pistol or more volumes of ammo then I'd get a powder measure for sure.

Ditch the Forster sizing die and get a Redding Type S full length sizing die.  It is a bushing die, so you'll need a neck sizing bushing, too.

I'd ditch these and get a Chargemaster 1500 as some others have suggested.  It is accurate and will save you tons of time.

I've found no need to check powder throws with a beam scale, even though I got one to double check things.  After checking 10 powders throws out of 50 on the beam scale and finding them all spot on, I stopped checking them.  The Chargemaster won't be off more than 0.1 grains, if any.  And since even the beam scale is only accurate to +/- 0.1 grains, as is the Chargemaster, I don't see double checking powder weights to be worth it.  Plus, the Chargemaster will tell you if your thrown weight is over or under.  Chuck it back in the dispenser and throw again.

You can adjust the speed of the Chargemaster (look it up online) to get less overthrows.  I like to adjust it to start trickling when it's within ~1.5 grains.

I'd also suggest adding a bullet puller of some kind.  Comes in handy.

I use an automated dispenser, and have used the CM a lot.

I double-weigh all my charges for precision rifle before they go near the cases.

I would get the RCBS charge master combo or similar I absolutely love mine and I am able to easily maintain't single digits standard deviation.

Id also recommend the whidden gunworks bushing dies. Very nice dies. The reddings you mentioned are very nice dies as well tho Other then that looks like a good set up