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Posted: 8/19/2012 1:23:18 PM
[Last Edit: 8/19/2012 1:24:46 PM by R14]
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT |
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Posted: 8/21/2012 3:10:09 PM
[Last Edit: 8/21/2012 3:14:36 PM by VBC]
If the cable guard rod has a bend in it, you can loosen the lockscrew and rotate the rod outward a little more to provide more cable clearance.
You will need to press the bow to remove the cable tension on the rod to do this. (This is assuming that the rod is not already rotated outward as far as it will go). Rotate the rod outward until you get about 1/8" clearance between the cable and vanes. You want the least amount of clearance possible because increasing the cable offset increases cam lean. |
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Posted: 8/21/2012 7:31:49 PM
Thanks for the info, but it is allready maxed out. It is actually to the point where it is getting some pretty good cam lean, and it came like that from the factory. At best, I get maybe 1/16 of an inch clearance. The more I look into this problem, the more I get the feeling I will need to get a new bow. Thanks for the help though.
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Posted: 8/21/2012 7:58:44 PM
[Last Edit: 8/21/2012 8:02:45 PM by VBC]
You might be getting horizontal nock travel, due to cam lean / limb twist or simply torquing the bow with your grip.
If so, you'll be getting a bad right or left tear when paper tuning that you can't tune out by moving the rest. Depending on how your bow is set up, you can experiment with twisting the cables to straighten the idler or cam lean and/or swap cam shims. Just be careful. Also, I have cured horizontal nock travel before by simply moving the nock point a 1/4 to 1/2" higher and retuning the rest. You wouldn't think that would have any affect on horizontal nock travel, but it did. |
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Posted: 8/24/2012 8:43:13 PM
Thanks, I will have to look into that.
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