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Posted: 7/7/2015 3:57:17 AM EDT
I'll be starting a job at Dicks Sporting goods and will be in the Camping,Firearms and bow department. Now I know about camping and firearms but know very little about the bow. I have shoot bow in the past lost interest after losing all my arrows as a kid but I have thought about picking it up again. So what do I need to know to help out someone who is a bow hunter pick the right bow for them?

I really need to get schooled up on this topic so please anything will help. I would feel like shit if I sold a gun/bow to someone that they did not need or that was to much for them! Thanks!
Link Posted: 7/7/2015 8:42:43 AM EDT
[#1]
Bows are pretty individual and there are no hard fast rules; it's mostly personal preference - I'm assuming you are dealing with the compound. You do need to learn how to get a person's draw length and set a bow up correctly for it. Speed is a big marketing point but I never paid too much attention to it when I shot compounds (as a traditional shooter I have zero interest in it at all now obviously); You would be doing the customer a favor in suggesting going with a bow with a more comfortable draw curve to him vs one with an extra 10fps but a harsher curve. A 60# compound will take any deer out there (so will a 50) and I would not steer one to a 70# bow unless they are hunting larger animals, or are going to get serious about 3D and want every extra fps they can get - those types may have a pretty good idea of what they are after to start with though. ATA (axle to axle length) is another number you will see that people will ask you about. Longer is a little easier to shoot - shorter is a bit nicer in a stand. As a traditional shooter I find the whole thing pretty laughable since a 52" recurve is considered very compact and hunting compounds run in the 31-35" range. I'd tell them not to worry too much about it.  



With all this keep in mind I don't shop at Dick's so not sure what all the customer can try out. Take what I say accordingly.



They will needs sights - which is also personal preference; multi-pin or single pin, brand - all personal preference. Multi-pin would likely be easier for a new shooter. They will need a rest; there are fixed containment types (ie WB's) or fall away rests; some fall aways provide some containment as well. WB's are easiest for a newbie but the fall aways have no arrow contact once they drop and that has advantages. Most wheel bow shooters use a release of some kind and for a beginner a wrist strap release is probably best. Stabilizers are nice and one with some vibration dampening isn't all bad either. Mine was 12" and I never felt it was a problem in the woods. The long ones are target only propositions.



Arrows are a whole other topic, there are wood, aluminum and carbon choices. Most compound shooters use carbon with the others being more in the traditional realm. I suggest a length that puts the front of the shaft 1" past the rest - that gives plenty of broadhead clearance. You will need to match the arrows spine to the draw length and weight of the bow. Point weight will also come into play. There are charts out there that will get you a starting place. For a hunting compound I think the arrow should end up weighing 6-7gr per lb of draw weight. 5gr/lb is about minimum and fine for target shooting but you would be doing a new hunter a favor by steering him to a bit heavier arrow, he will get better penetration.



The topic of the best broadhead is a great way to get an argument going. Some like mechanicals, others prefer fixed. Only thing I would say is don't use a mechanical with a lower draw weight compound. Traditional shooters should stay with a fixed blade as well.



I'd do some surfing and read. There is some reasonable info out there as well as plenty of purse swinging. Not sure what all to get in to so any specific questions just ask. Hopefully you will get a few other reply's with all I missed - there is plenty!


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