Very well assembled mister. Well done!

Patrick

Good catch. Assuming the shooter is starting with a mechanical zero, they should already be reasonably close to being on paper.

One thing I might decide to note in an annotation is to reduce the distance (or increase the target size) until you're on paper - and then move your POI the appropriate distance.

Whenever I need to make gross adjustments I usually use a shooting bench, aim at an object, then without moving - direct my focus downrange and see how much gross adjustment I should make.

I prefer to sight in at 200 yards but the distance that is best for you depends on a lot of potentially objectionable things. Many shooters can agree on some zeroing methods.

The following is my opinion - if you're shooting an optic that doesn't obscure a target like iron sights would - with bullets that fly reasonably flat, you should zero at 200 yards/meters since from 0 to 200 yards/meters, your bullet will probably not deviate outside of a USPSA Metric headshot.

Also, if you have two optics on your rifle, you are in Open class. If you intend to shoot in the open division, make yourself aware of the implications of that - any other shooter here will be glad to give you details.

I'd recommend the same zero for both optics. If you run a short zero on one optic - you'll be fine if you stay inside the effective range of the zero if you expect the point of impact to match the point of aim.

For example, if you have a 10 yard zero and try to take a 50 yard headshot with a 50/200 yard zero - you will probably miss. I figure that on the clock, I don't need to remember more than a few dozen hold-overs for my 3 guns (which are the same for me in Limited/Tactical/Open) by complicating things with additional knowledge. Some of us write these things down but after a while, I didn't bother since if you shoot (and learn while shooting) enough - you'll be able to visualize the flight path of the bullet in your walk through.

To find your holdovers - there's a theoretical method:
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For Use in the Field

And there's a practical method - actually doing it on the range.

Computers are great and the KAC app has worked exceptionally well for me. I recommend both since theory is only good in theory. What I do is get a good zero and then check holdovers at the following distances: Contact (which should be the distance of the center of your sight to the center of your bullet), and every number of paces from 1-25. I measure holdover in paces since walking uniformly doesn't require any measuring equipment and can be done at every major match for the times where you must hit small targets at close ranges with your rifle. It is possible that a walk through will not allow the manipulation of props or any devices that allow you to determine distance. I also check my zero at 50, 100, 200, 300. From 300-500, I trust the computer but I only had access to 300 yards. I know Cold and his teammate test their weapons on paper at greater distances and zeroing routines are mostly up to the shooter.

Know Your Holdover

Once you get the hang of it and get very comfortable with it - put some time into determining your hold overs with a canted rifle. My squad at the PROAM had many spirited discussions about where your bullets will fly if you shoot them sideways from a car hood as support.

I don't bother to bore sight. I put up a large target at 25 yards to start. I mean large like a full size USPSA target with a red dot or post it in the middle of it. I fire 1 round and see hwere it hit and then like my 300 yard mark up to it on my scope. If I am sighting in a dot I put it just an 1 inch low at 25. Then I move the target to the desired zero range rather that is 50 yards (for red dots and what not) or 100 yards or 200 yards depending on the scope and the load. Fire a group make any final adjustments. Zeroing usually takes me less than 12 rounds.
Pat