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Posted: 7/25/2012 1:06:35 PM
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT This article was written to give those who have ARs in HD/SHTF/range toy formats information on how they can be used to hunt, and how they can supplement their training and success doing so. Purpose-built hunting rigs are not discussed in this article, as they are more specialized. DISCLAIMER: Check local, state, and federal laws before following any of the below information. This serves only as a guide. Why hunt with your AR?: I bought my first AR as a range toy, and varmint rifle. I’m not mil. or leo so I don’t use one for my job. Ammo was cheap in .223 varieties, fairly accurate, and most importantly fun. I got into self defense and “sheepdog” studies later. My first hunting experience with my AR was to determine if I thought the AR was an effective defensive tool. The internet is full of unsupported data, and for every person who stated that it would do the job, another said it was weak (5.56 Nato varieties). I thought that I would try hunting some SC whitetails at close ranges with soft point ammunition. If it killed reliably I would continue, if not I would go back to my .270 for deer, shotgun for home defense, and use the AR for fun and coyotes. That was probably 20 deer ,10 hogs, and half a dozen coyotes ago. Here are the major reasons ARs can be considered: First hand experience for proving ground as effective self defense tool Familiarity with platform for defensive or competitive use Testing new gear, optics, and accessories in all weather conditions Ability to practice (some) tactics in dynamic environments with weapons system Generally, smaller, lighter, and more weather resistant than traditional hunting platforms Light recoiling (5.56), and easy to handle FUN!!! What gear to use?: First off, lets make some broad assumptions. I’m going to assume that the rifle being used is in standard carbine form. That would be a 5.56/.223 chambered, 16” barreled rifle with collapsible stock with irons, and with or without optics. This covers probably 90% of most setups, if yours differs make changes as necessary. Dedicated hunting and competition rigs are ignored here, as the basis for this article is using the defensive rig you have. Optics are preferred in both hunting and defensive scenarios. Optics far outperform iron sights in speed of acquisition and low light shooting. If you are a iron sight fan, or if that is all your weapon is equipped with, go for it but be aware of limitations it might impose. Magnification is largely a personal experience. On a defensive weapon a fixed low power optic (a la ACOG) or low powered variable are the most common. Magnification aids in target ID, and ability to provide precision fire, but come at the expense of bulk and weight. There are many threads here on ARF.com to browse through, so you can reach your own decisions on optics. Since this is your defensive rig, use what you have established as the appropriate optic system for your weapon. As far as slings, carriers, lights and magazines go; use the equipment you have in the way it is usually used. The slight differences might be the removal of lights or use of low capacity magazines depending on the regulations in your area. Safety vests, drag ropes, and calls might have to be added to your kit depending on the game you are hunting. Just remember, you want to change as little to your system as possible to breed familiarity. Ammunition will be discussed below in the different game selections. Get squared away: Before you head afield check your equipment out to prevent embarrassment, missed or wounded animals, or personal injury. First of all this means a properly zeroed weapon with the ammo you intend to hunt with. You should also be proficient enough with the weapon to make hits within the vital zone of the game, at the ranges you intend to hunt, FROM FIELD POSITIONS!!! A shooting bench is where you confirm zero, laying across a slick log on a wet foggy morning while your heart feels like it will explode is when you find out if you can really shoot. You should also know your holdovers and holdunders (at closer ranges) for your weapons system. Vests, bags, magazines, pouches and other gear should be securely attached to your person and often needed items should be readily accessible. Often less is more here. Tactics and Exercises: This is not a discussion of tactics for bagging game but rather how you can use training that you have received in other arenas and apply it in the field. Mindset is probably the most important and the easiest to practice. Trust me hunting should be fun, but this gives you a chance to hone your mind. Think like a predator, move like one. Other applications will depend on your level of training, terrain, and the game being pursued. Here are a few that come to mind. Drive the gun to the game, get it into the fight Trigger control, pressure and reset. This really hard to do when adrenaline pumps from a big buck coming into view, but try to focus Scan, check your 6, and break tunnel vision. Especially effective when hunting groups of hogs Use cover, higher ground, use terrain to your advantage If in a group communicate while moving, shooting, reloading ect. If stealth is needed use hands or signals The .223/5.56 debate: Before we get into game, lets open this can of worms. Generally, the .223/5.56 round is considered a coyote and varmint round. Essentially anything under 80lbs or so is considered appropriate for the round. White tail deer constitute the vast majority of hunting in North America. In most areas, they approximate the size of adult males. Lots of folks have reservations shooting game this size with the relatively small .224” projectiles, lots of folks, like me, do not. Several states mandate a 6mm or larger projectile to be used for hunting deer. With advances in bullet technology, and less internal damage dependant on sure mass than previous design, .224” diameter bullets are much more lethal than they were even 10 years ago. Controlled expansion and premium bullets allow the projectile to cause as much internal damage to game via penetration as larger “traditional” hunting rounds. Barnes TSX, Nosler Partition, and Federal TBBC are the big names, but others exist. Traditional hunting designs also exist, and exist at a balance between the explosiveness of varmint rounds and the controlled expansion rounds penetration. These rounds come at a steep price point compared to surplus FMJ though, so be aware. Performance alone has caused to me to load and zero my defensive weapon with premium rounds in my kit. Whether on not that translates to the .223/5.56 round being an effective tool to humanely harvest whitetail sized (or larger) game is debatable and a personal decision. ARF.com has threads that come up about this subject at least once a week. Browse and make your own decisions. While FMJ round are a cheap and completely acceptable for training and target practice DO NOT USE FMJ ROUNDS FOR HUNTING!!! Varmints and small game: This type of hunting with an AR really fun. Usually the targets are plentiful, pressure is low, and the follow up shot capability of the AR is welcomed. Your defensive weapon may not have the magnification to make some of the long shots that the bolt guys have, but just stalk closer if it’s possible. You will be much equipped to handle running shots on coyotes, and here in the southeast most encounters are less than 100 yards away. Those who live out west may be able to chime in on prairie dogs and woodchucks but no experience here from me. Feral Hogs: In most states these are considered a nuisance animal and shooting seasons and bag limits are liberal or non-existent. Hogs are tough and often move in groups. This is where you should step up to a real hunting round and not use the ballistic tip varmint stuff. If your area allows, the 30rd and 20rd magazines are great for the firepower. Methods of hunting vary area to area, so tactics will also. Stand hunts will have more time to allow precise shots on stationary animals, and may over watch a feeder or food plot. Stalk hunts will generally require more reflexive shooting, so communication and not covering a person or property with the muzzle becomes important. Deer: Once again, your location will dictate how you will pursue the game. From fixed stand hunts precision takes priority for rounds fired. Quality over quantity. I don’t like to “shoot up” any of my game, but I don’t mind it for hogs or coyotes. With deer, I like to place one shot and drop the animal. That is not always what happens, but is what I always try to execute. The ARs short length is nice tree stands and blinds and makes moving around much easier. If you have them available an active sound suppression set of plugs are nice since the muzzle blast from my 16” AR is much worse than the 22” .270 I have. Foam plugs are fine if you do not mind the limited hearing. |
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Posted: 8/6/2012 9:24:49 PM
Good writeup, though I would add that the availability of 6.8 SPC, 6.5 Grendel, .450 Bushmaster, and .300 AAC eliminate the issue of minimum caliber and limited stopping power for deer and can easily be swapped out without any tools required or additional firearm purchased.
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