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Posted: 8/4/2017 1:30:32 PM EDT
[#1]
I use a Powerwerx TRICRIMP tool. Perfect crimp every time. I used a different crimper thinking it would work and I could save the $40. After getting the Powerwerx TRICRIMP I thought "Why didn't I get this sooner".
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Posted: 8/4/2017 1:38:45 PM EDT
[#2]
Small gauge wire can be finicky sometimes, so adding shrink wrap to the wire/connector will help stiffen it up some.
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Posted: 8/4/2017 2:10:06 PM EDT
[#3]
HATE the PowerPole connectors. I use 'em but I can't see why they are popular. A few points:
With small gauge or very flexible wire you must use a tool to seat them home and get them to lock into place. A small screwdriver will often do. Once latched into place, I find the connector will still unseat itself after some degree of use. You'll be left wondering, "Why am I not getting power?" The plastic housings can be connected in two possible orientations, such that you can't line them up to mate with another set (unless they are also incorrect). Poor design! Use a "factory" example as a template (I use an Anderson cigarette lighter socket adaptor) to ensure you are in the "correct" orientation. Despite buying the proper, high-dollar crimpers, I've often had the terminals pull loose. Unless the wire gauge is just right for a perfect fill of the terminal before crimping, I've had to resort to soldering all the terminals. Have I mentioned that I HATE PowerPoles?  Jim...
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Posted: 8/4/2017 2:11:10 PM EDT
[#4]
Make sure to your not trying to push it in upside down. Usually, clicks into place without much effort.
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Posted: 8/4/2017 2:29:59 PM EDT
[#5]
Make sure to your not trying to push it in upside down. Usually, clicks into place without much effort.
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Posted: 8/4/2017 2:49:03 PM EDT
[#6]
After some trials and tribulations, I've come to the point where, post-install, I backfill the connector with hot glue and add heat shrink after that. Between those two, there's good strain relief, and I haven't had any problems since.
FWIW, I'm pretty rough on my gear, and this technique has served me very well. |
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Posted: 8/4/2017 3:58:21 PM EDT
[#7]
I use them on radio equipment, my model railroad, my telescope. Even added them to my zero turn mower to make it easier to charge the battery. The real trick is a good crimper. I also use the Powerwerx Tri Crimper. An additional note, during field day one guy had pins that were not package individually. They were all attached on a strip and had to be separated and carefully trimmed to work. They could not be readily inserted.
he bought them on Ebay. |
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Posted: 8/4/2017 4:50:32 PM EDT
[#8]
I like them.
All my radios get the pole treatment. As others have said, light gauge wires need a bit of help getting the connector seated. I use a small flat blade screwdriver to push it in until it clicks. Once they click in I haven't had any back out. Its convenient having my radios, power supplies, and junctions all the same. Literally, plug and play. My go box and even the 817 and my battery pack are all polled. Are you seeing a theme here? |
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Posted: 8/4/2017 4:51:43 PM EDT
[#9]
Orientation... "Tongue Top, Red Right".
 Attached FileUse the TriCrimp. Money well spent. Once you start using the TriCrimp, you'll have them working correctly, snapping on place correctly, not popping back out. If I have one not snapping in easily, I use a small jeweler's screwdriver to push it in. Use the correct Powerpole contact for the wire size. The housing and contact area is all the same for 15, 30, and 45 amp. The difference is that they contacts crimp to different size wire. 30 amp covers most situations for ham radio, but small wire, such as the backlight for SWR/power meters, might better work with the 15 amp size. I have had very little need for 45 amp size. Like the article below, I use large heat shrink on the housings sometimes. http://k9zw.wordpress.com/2009/08/12/ Almost nothing goes into service with my gear without use of Powerpoles. |
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Posted: 8/4/2017 5:20:53 PM EDT
[#10]
With almost any crimp tool, it's common for the little tab to bend slightly in relation to the part where the wire goes. The tab needs to be at the correct angle or the whole contact can't be in the right position in the connector body. Just bend the tab up a little.
I've tried a couple of powerpole-specific crimp tools, and own one. I'm not sure there is that much of a practical difference vs using the little crimp nub on a multitool when crimping typical 14 or 12ga wire into the standard powerpole contact. Where the powerpole crimper really shines is when trying to use the 45 amp contacts with 10ga wire or multiple smaller wires. |
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Posted: 8/4/2017 6:32:20 PM EDT
[#11]
Jupiter7200 said: Orientation... "Tongue Top, Red Right".
Jupiter, I bow to you in knowledge of all things radio, and that's a good pneumonic, but in the aircraft / aerospace world we learned that if something can be assembled wrong, then it will be assembled wrong. A superior design just prevents that and takes it out of the equation. Not that this matters. PowerPoles have become the standard for radio folk, so you just gotta' use them unless you're sure you'll never need to mate up your gear with that of someone else. But gosh dang it, I don't have to like 'em!
Cheers... Jim |
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Posted: 8/4/2017 7:37:28 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Jupiter7200 said: Orientation... "Tongue Top, Red Right". Jupiter, I bow to you in knowledge of all things radio, and that's a good pneumonic, but in the aircraft / aerospace world we learned that if something can be assembled wrong, then it will be assembled wrong. A superior design just prevents that and takes it out of the equation. Not that this matters. PowerPoles have become the standard for radio folk, so you just gotta' use them unless you're sure you'll never need to mate up your gear with that of someone else. But gosh dang it, I don't have to like 'em!
Cheers... Jim For example, Piccolo has a British PRC-320 that has a 24vdc center tapped battery. 0v-12v-24v. One could make a connector like above, with black = 0, red = 12v and have a third contact, say, Green = 24v. A conventional tongue top / red right 12v powerpole could be plugged into the black-red portion of the 3 conductor plug in order to operate a 12 v device. But if you plugged the 12v black-red plug into the red-green there could be a short between chassis grounds from the coax. To prevent that from happening, you could rotate the green terminal 90* so that that cannot happen. That's just one thing I thought of. Once you assemble the black and red the way it should be, you can anchor it with the heat shrink tubing, or just before sliding them together you could put a drop of CA glue. You can also buy the red and black housings already glued together in the correct orientation. It is really a problem for the assembler, and like other things you do, putting on PL-259's, or whatever, you must plan, check as you assemble, check again, assemble, check again. Once it is assembled correctly it is difficult to misuse. Jup |
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Posted: 8/4/2017 8:33:41 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is a deliberate part of the design, to allow different orientations, or keying them so that certain things can or cannot be plugged in. For example, Piccolo has a British PRC-320 that has a 24vdc center tapped battery. 0v-12v-24v. One could make a connector like above, with black = 0, red = 12v and have a third contact, say, Green = 24v. A conventional tongue top / red right 12v powerpole could be plugged into the black-red portion of the 3 conductor plug in order to operate a 12 v device. But if you plugged the 12v black-red plug into the red-green there could be a short between chassis grounds from the coax. To prevent that from happening, you could rotate the green terminal 90* so that that cannot happen. That's just one thing I thought of. |
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Posted: 8/4/2017 8:37:59 PM EDT
[#14]
I love them. Tons of color combos, you can get them many different sizes, you can orient them however you want them, in blocks of however many you want.
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Posted: 8/4/2017 9:40:29 PM EDT
[#15]
I bought a quality crimper but it does not always form the connector properly. When crimped, it does not always fit into the connector body and I need to use pliers to slightly round the crimped part to make it fit.
Try to solder the wire instead of crimping. Soldering works A LOT better because it does not warp the connectors. They are very easy to solder. For very thin wires, try to push the connector in with a small flat screwdriver. BTW, I only use Powerpoles on my portable radios. I'm not crazy about them. They can be easily pulled apart but they work ok if left undisturbed. |
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Posted: 8/5/2017 2:00:30 AM EDT
[#16]
I use Powerpoles for everything power, including my solar panels.
(Edit) Solar panels and cables get green-black instead of red-black. Everything on the solar side of the voltage controller is green-black. But they are configured just like the 13.8v side of the system. That way I can use regular Powerpole extensions if I need to. I don't need them idiot proof. I just need the green to alert me to the solar side of things. I look around and about the only alternative is those cheesy Molex connectors. I'd like to yank Molex out of the back of every radio I have and put Powerpoles. |
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Posted: 8/5/2017 2:14:49 AM EDT
[#17]
Crimp, solder.
You may have to squeeze the connector in a vice slightly to get it into the plastic shield. |
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Posted: 8/5/2017 2:27:02 PM EDT
[#18]
I use a small flat-head screw driver to seat the contact. Just catch the contact on the rear and, without much pressure, push until it clicks.
Edit: Like Jupiter said... 
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Posted: 8/5/2017 3:06:11 PM EDT
[#19]
Maybe I'm just lucky, but Powerpoles work great for me. I've never had a connector come loose, and I've never had a wire pull out of the terminal.
I use the Andy-Crimp Pro, and I use the welded housings. |
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Posted: 8/6/2017 7:14:48 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote History Doesn't everyone have some epoxy or super glue at home already?
Maybe I'm just too cheap. I solder all mine because a crimper costs money
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Posted: 8/6/2017 7:33:23 AM EDT
[#21]
I have crimped the connections is a vice and have had no trouble at all
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Posted: 8/6/2017 9:40:48 AM EDT
[#22]
Yes they are different at first. I think I overdue it when I solder the pins but I just have to do it. They do work well, kind of expensive but you get what you pay for.. I made a few adapters that have a ring adapter in case I need to use power that is not setup for power pole plugs.. I would hate to cut a cable with a set of power poles on just to wire up on an alternate power connector...
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Posted: 8/6/2017 9:44:34 AM EDT
[#23]
Crimping is superior to solder in vibration environments.
They have worked fantastic for me for over 25 years in RC cars/planes/helis |
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Posted: 8/6/2017 10:55:32 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Crimping is superior to solder in vibration environments.
Remember, I'm the guy with the thermal wire strippers.  No nicks and 100% intact strands are very important for proper termination in a crimp. I suppose it's past time I bought a comprehensive set of crimping tools and dies. But the thermal strippers I found for $5 at a local surplus place. To do a decent job of it I probably need to drop $50 or $100 on crimp tooling. It's just that I don't put that many cable assemblies together, maybe 3 or 4 a year, and none in a mobile environment. So I cheat and solder.
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Posted: 8/6/2017 11:21:16 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm amazed a market for this exists Doesn't everyone have some epoxy or super glue at home already?
I suppose if I had hundreds, or thousands of connections to make, I might do it myself to save some money. But since I only have a dozen or so Powerpole connections in my station, I can afford it. 
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Posted: 8/6/2017 1:17:32 PM EDT
[#26]
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Posted: 8/6/2017 1:19:48 PM EDT
[#27]
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Posted: 8/6/2017 3:31:40 PM EDT
[#28]
I crimp with the Gardner-Bender GS-388
I use a small screwdriver to seat the power pole rather than pushing on the wire. Power wires for the sizes we are working with are not meant for pushing or pulling. That are what connectors are for. (Second fastest way to get a USAF Sargent to yell at you: pull on a wire to unplug it.) If crimping thin wires, like the power wires for a Kantronics KPC 3+, I will strip the wire extra long and then bend it back and twist it on self before crimping. A good crimp will make both a good electrical & physical connection. A good solder job will make a good electrical connection but NOT one that will tolerate flexing. I won't argue the merits or problems with using power poles. I just will advise people to be aware of both. And plan accordingly. |
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Posted: 8/6/2017 6:05:38 PM EDT
[#29]
If using undersize wires (or any sort of screw clamp terminator), you should be using ferrules.
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Posted: 8/6/2017 8:45:51 PM EDT
[#30]
We originally were using Powerpoles in some of our UAV applications. It's humid enough here that they would corrode fairly quickly, especially with higher voltage/current.
For the radio stuff, most of that for me is inside so it's not really an issue. However, my opinion is that soldering is preferable to crimping. I've had 100% luck with soldering, crimping I've had a small number of failures. I do like the convenience of the powerpoles for making things able to run off power supply, battery, solar, cigarette lighter adapter, whatever. |
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Posted: 8/7/2017 7:22:31 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We originally were using Powerpoles in some of our UAV applications. It's humid enough here that they would corrode fairly quickly, especially with higher voltage/current. For the radio stuff, most of that for me is inside so it's not really an issue. However, my opinion is that soldering is preferable to crimping. I've had 100% luck with soldering, crimping I've had a small number of failures. I do like the convenience of the powerpoles for making things able to run off power supply, battery, solar, cigarette lighter adapter, whatever. |
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Posted: 8/7/2017 9:53:17 AM EDT
[#32]
Just want to add that I originally purchased the Powerwerx TriCrimp and liked it so much I bought the extra sets of crimp dies.
I use these crimpers for almost all my crimps now and have been thinking about buying an extra body just do I don't have to change dies so much. The TriCrimp PowerPole dies make an excellent crimp with the PowerWerx sourced connector inserts. I also used the extra dies for my SB50 connectors and do a double crimp with those - two crimps in line fits perfectly on the connector insert. The TriCrimp squishes those big connectors with ease. |
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Posted: 8/7/2017 9:53:56 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We originally were using Powerpoles in some of our UAV applications. It's humid enough here that they would corrode fairly quickly, especially with higher voltage/current. For the radio stuff, most of that for me is inside so it's not really an issue. However, my opinion is that soldering is preferable to crimping. I've had 100% luck with soldering, crimping I've had a small number of failures. experience with the design and execution of military qualified wiring harnesses. Crimping is only superior if you do it right (hence my comment above about needing expensive tooling). In order to meet the most common MIL-STD-810 environmental qualifications, wire preparation must be perfect, the crimps must be gas-tight, the wires and terminals must have proper plating characteristics, and the wire/terminal ends conformally coated.
The complexity, cost, time and skill required to properly accomplish proper, gas-tight, conformal coated, crimp terminations capable of meeting outdoor/mobile environmental qualifications is generally beyond levels acceptable to most hobbyists. And therefore, most of us, including myself (and I know how to do it right), simply solder things, maybe shrink sleeve them, too, and accept the occasional and thankfully rare failure due to vibration. In fact, if you solder and then captivate the wire somehow so that it does not wiggle the termination under vibration you can generally expect it will last effectively forever. For instance: all of the ring terminals used on my wire antennas are soldered, sleeved and the wires captivated. My oldest antenna is 5 years old and still no failures from vibration or corrosion. I have thought about conformal coating, though, because that's easy, you just order it in a spray can (example). |
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Posted: 8/7/2017 10:33:30 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have some "small" experience with the design and execution of military qualified wiring harnesses. Crimping is only superior if you do it right (hence my comment above about needing expensive tooling). In order to meet the most common MIL-STD-810 environmental qualifications, wire preparation must be perfect, the crimps must be gas-tight, the wires and terminals must have proper plating characteristics, and the wire/terminal ends conformally coated.
The complexity, cost, time and skill required to properly accomplish proper, gas-tight, conformal coated, crimp terminations capable of meeting outdoor/mobile environmental qualifications is generally beyond levels acceptable to most hobbyists. And therefore, most of us, including myself (and I know how to do it right), simply solder things, maybe shrink sleeve them, too, and accept the occasional and thankfully rare failure due to vibration. In fact, if you solder and then captivate the wire somehow so that it does not wiggle the termination under vibration you can generally expect it will last effectively forever. For instance: all of the ring terminals used on my wire antennas are soldered, sleeved and the wires captivated. My oldest antenna is 5 years old and still no failures from vibration or corrosion. I have thought about conformal coating, though, because that's easy, you just order it in a spray can (example). Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
We originally were using Powerpoles in some of our UAV applications. It's humid enough here that they would corrode fairly quickly, especially with higher voltage/current. For the radio stuff, most of that for me is inside so it's not really an issue. However, my opinion is that soldering is preferable to crimping. I've had 100% luck with soldering, crimping I've had a small number of failures. experience with the design and execution of military qualified wiring harnesses. Crimping is only superior if you do it right (hence my comment above about needing expensive tooling). In order to meet the most common MIL-STD-810 environmental qualifications, wire preparation must be perfect, the crimps must be gas-tight, the wires and terminals must have proper plating characteristics, and the wire/terminal ends conformally coated.
The complexity, cost, time and skill required to properly accomplish proper, gas-tight, conformal coated, crimp terminations capable of meeting outdoor/mobile environmental qualifications is generally beyond levels acceptable to most hobbyists. And therefore, most of us, including myself (and I know how to do it right), simply solder things, maybe shrink sleeve them, too, and accept the occasional and thankfully rare failure due to vibration. In fact, if you solder and then captivate the wire somehow so that it does not wiggle the termination under vibration you can generally expect it will last effectively forever. For instance: all of the ring terminals used on my wire antennas are soldered, sleeved and the wires captivated. My oldest antenna is 5 years old and still no failures from vibration or corrosion. I have thought about conformal coating, though, because that's easy, you just order it in a spray can (example). |
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Posted: 8/7/2017 6:29:17 PM EDT
[#35]
I use power poles on all my ham radio stuff. I tried to go cheap on the crimper and found out that was a mistake so I broke down and bought the really expensive one they suggest, huge difference. also yes the thin wire can prove troublesome in some cases but i've never been given much grief.
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Posted: 8/7/2017 9:57:05 PM EDT
[#36]
They are the most aggravating connector that I have ever used.
Tried em, Hate em, Don't use em. |
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Posted: 8/7/2017 10:26:40 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What connector did you go with for humidity? The Deans don't come disconnected in flight. They are somewhat of a pain to unplug from each other. That's why we shrink tube each wire and then an overwrap heat shrink for strain relief. The mil connectors work in some heavy vibration environments but they're too heavy for our application to small UAVs. I don't see vibration as an issue in a shack radio, maybe in a mobile application in vehicle with bad shocks . So, for my ham stuff, powerpoles it is.
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Posted: 8/7/2017 10:32:37 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have some "small" experience with the design and execution of military qualified wiring harnesses. Crimping is only superior if you do it right (hence my comment above about needing expensive tooling). In order to meet the most common MIL-STD-810 environmental qualifications, wire preparation must be perfect, the crimps must be gas-tight, the wires and terminals must have proper plating characteristics, and the wire/terminal ends conformally coated.
The complexity, cost, time and skill required to properly accomplish proper, gas-tight, conformal coated, crimp terminations capable of meeting outdoor/mobile environmental qualifications is generally beyond levels acceptable to most hobbyists. And therefore, most of us, including myself (and I know how to do it right), simply solder things, maybe shrink sleeve them, too, and accept the occasional and thankfully rare failure due to vibration. In fact, if you solder and then captivate the wire somehow so that it does not wiggle the termination under vibration you can generally expect it will last effectively forever. For instance: all of the ring terminals used on my wire antennas are soldered, sleeved and the wires captivated. My oldest antenna is 5 years old and still no failures from vibration or corrosion. I have thought about conformal coating, though, because that's easy, you just order it in a spray can (example). I may have to get me some of that silicone spray. It looks interesting. |
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Posted: 8/8/2017 2:43:05 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have some "small" experience with the design and execution of military qualified wiring harnesses. Crimping is only superior if you do it right (hence my comment above about needing expensive tooling). In order to meet the most common MIL-STD-810 environmental qualifications, wire preparation must be perfect, the crimps must be gas-tight, the wires and terminals must have proper plating characteristics, and the wire/terminal ends conformally coated.
The complexity, cost, time and skill required to properly accomplish proper, gas-tight, conformal coated, crimp terminations capable of meeting outdoor/mobile environmental qualifications is generally beyond levels acceptable to most hobbyists. And therefore, most of us, including myself (and I know how to do it right), simply solder things, maybe shrink sleeve them, too, and accept the occasional and thankfully rare failure due to vibration. In fact, if you solder and then captivate the wire somehow so that it does not wiggle the termination under vibration you can generally expect it will last effectively forever. For instance: all of the ring terminals used on my wire antennas are soldered, sleeved and the wires captivated. My oldest antenna is 5 years old and still no failures from vibration or corrosion. I have thought about conformal coating, though, because that's easy, you just order it in a spray can (example). You mentioned that a person doing crimping should be qualified for the job. Funny thing is that there are very few people who know how to solder properly. I've seen experienced and certified electricians do a terrible soldering job. Honestly, I'd rather trust them to crimp something than to solder. I once had to spend half the night redoing soldered plugs for multiple servo drives. The "experienced" contractor had no clue how to solder properly. The next morning they filed a grievance with their union about the project manager (me) doing their job. You would not believe how hard it is to find qualified people for a job, any job that requires skills and an ability to think logically.
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Posted: 8/8/2017 5:43:02 AM EDT
[#40]
Can the company send them all to soldering school, or would that violate the collective bargaining agreement?
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Posted: 8/8/2017 7:01:07 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote History |
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Posted: 8/8/2017 2:00:54 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For power leads, we use either a Deans connector or an XT-60. I think Deans are easier to solder and shrink wrap, at least for me. The Deans don't come disconnected in flight. They are somewhat of a pain to unplug from each other. That's why we shrink tube each wire and then an overwrap heat shrink for strain relief. The mil connectors work in some heavy vibration environments but they're too heavy for our application to small UAVs. I don't see vibration as an issue in a shack radio, maybe in a mobile application in vehicle with bad shocks . So, for my ham stuff, powerpoles it is. |
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Posted: 8/8/2017 6:25:30 PM EDT
[#43]
There is a like a 3 dollar seating tool thats worth its weight in gold for powerpoles, it also helps if you ever have to unseat one.
I will also echo the guys saying get a good crimper, well worth it. I also crimp+solder on most of mine, and then if I need it to be durable I fill the backs with hot glue. With regard to thin wire, you can strip more than you need and bunch it up, like in a U shape or S shape if its fairly thin to help. Also crimp+solder. MY .02. |
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Posted: 8/8/2017 6:32:43 PM EDT
[#44]
I use the hell out of them... and like them.
Thinner wires will require a tiny screwdriver to help seat the connector in the housing. |
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Posted: 8/9/2017 12:52:23 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
if I need it to be durable I fill the backs with hot glue. There are vinyl boots that are available to cover the back. |
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Posted: 8/10/2017 12:25:41 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There is a like a 3 dollar seating tool thats worth its weight in gold for powerpoles, it also helps if you ever have to unseat one. I will also echo the guys saying get a good crimper, well worth it. I also crimp+solder on most of mine, and then if I need it to be durable I fill the backs with hot glue. With regard to thin wire, you can strip more than you need and bunch it up, like in a U shape or S shape if its fairly thin to help. Also crimp+solder. MY .02. https://powerwerx.com/powerpole-insertion-removal-extraction-tool I see them on amazon, but when shipping is added in, it adds up to something like $16 to $19 or more for the tool. But I didn't do an exhaustive search, so maybe there's a cheaper option out there somewhere. |
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Posted: 8/10/2017 2:59:17 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's a bad idea, the contact has to be able to move inside the housing so they can mate and demate properly. There are vinyl boots that are available to cover the back. The PP tool for insertion is handy when working with smaller gauge stuff. Pick them up for a few bucks at ham fests and the like. Finally, a good set of crimpers is good to have, even if you swear by soldering your connectors. I assembled a number of power pole connectors while at Field Day and power was not available for running an iron and I've yet to find a decent--and inexpensive--butane soldering iron. |
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Posted: 8/10/2017 5:03:32 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's a bad idea, the contact has to be able to move inside the housing so they can mate and demate properly. There are vinyl boots that are available to cover the back. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
if I need it to be durable I fill the backs with hot glue. There are vinyl boots that are available to cover the back. |
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Posted: 8/10/2017 5:04:19 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is this the 'seating tool' that you mentioned? https://powerwerx.com/powerpole-insertion-removal-extraction-tool I see them on amazon, but when shipping is added in, it adds up to something like $16 to $19 or more for the tool. But I didn't do an exhaustive search, so maybe there's a cheaper option out there somewhere. |
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Posted: 8/14/2017 10:05:56 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Maybe I'm just too cheap. I solder all mine because a crimper costs money |
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