A while back I had written this now archived thread, which you may want to review.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/671603_Portable_power_and_Solar_Charging_Gadgets.html

And actually operating with all of this:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/682944_Statewide_Simulated_Emergency_Test_this_weekend.html



I had gone through the math, power requirements, current draw of HF and VHF radios at various duty
cycles, real output (vs. advertised) of solar panels, when I started all of this.  As it turns out, my math,
assumptions, estimations, and actual measurements were pretty accurate.



A basic solar power system for your ham gear is comprised of first, solar panels.  From the solar panels,
which will produce from 18 vdc (under load) to 22 vdc (no load), the current will then pass through a
solar charge controller, which will regulate and properly charge a "12 v" (actually 13.8 v fully charged)
battery, and cut off the charge current when the proper fully charged level is reached.  The output of the
solar charge controller then goes to an appropriate battery, sized for the usage, and from there, to your
radio gear.

From my actual measurements, a real solar panel puts out a bit less than advertised.  That should be no
surprise.  My 50 watt solar panels, which advertise 2.8 amps output, actually produce 2.3-2.4 amps on a
sunny day.  OK, they do what they do.

When figuring a very generous duty cycle, and I won't go through all that here, the solar panel needs to
put out enough current to keep the battery topped off.  That's all fine and good for daylight operations,
but we will want to operate into the evening a few hours, so we need enough battery to operate during that
time with no charge current coming in.  And hopefully we will have enough solar panel, and therefore
charge current, to restore that power used through the evening and still allow operation during the day.

What I have found is that a single 50 watt solar panel will keep up with the charge requirements, and allow
some night time operation, for a 100 w HF SSB rig, or a 50 w VHF FM rig, and take care of that recharging
the next morning.  If using both HF and VHF rigs, which is likely in an emergency operation, with no other
source of power, 100 w of solar panels will work, either a single 100 w panel, or as I use, two 50 w panels
in parallel.  

I chose the two 50 w panels, which each measure 22" x 26", instead of a single 100 w, which measures
22" x 46", as they are easier to store, handle, and transport.  But like, that's just my opinion, man!  I found
a pair of 50 w panels on sale for about the same price as a single 100 w panel.  My panels come from
ML Solar.  They sell on eBay and also have their own site.  http://www.mlsolar.com/

Not only will my two 50 w panels operate two radios, HF and VHF, but will also run my laptop via a 12 v
power supply.

Power wiring from solar panels on over to the battery is done with 12 ga red/black zip cord.  Wiring from
the battery to the radio gear is 10 ga red/black zip.  Wiring for small, low current drain accessories is
done with 18 ga red/black zip cord.  And Anderson Powerpoles for the win!

I use green-black Powerpole housings on the solar panels and all wiring from panels to input of solar charge
controller.  KI0BK rotates the housings of the Powerpole inputs to his charge controller 90 degrees.  This
is to help prevent accidents from plugging 18-22 vdc solar panels directly into "12 volt" equipment.  

Everything from the charge controller on to the radio is done with standard red/black Powerpole housings
in the conventional orientation (red right, tongue top).

Next, you need a solar charge controller that will handle the 5 - 5.6 amps from the 100 w of solar panels.  
A controller that will handle 8 - 10 amps will do.  I use the solar charge controller from KI0BK, which is
small, light, and works very well.  I have also used some of the inexpensive charge controllers from eBay
such as the Solarland 2408 and 2410.  But my preferred charge controller is the KI0BK Solar Charge
Controller.  http://ki0bk.no-ip.com/~pwrgate/LLPG/Site/Solar.html

Battery... please, no wet, or "flooded" batteries!  Sealed batteries only for portable operations!  I use the
Elite series of AGM batteries from www.gruberpower.com.  The 55 AH is as big and heavy, at
37 lb, as I want to carry.  I have an 80 AH in my home station, but the smaller, lighter 55 AH battery is
much better for my back.

A smaller battery would not allow as much night time operation.  A larger battery will require longer charge
time the next morning if operated extensively the evening before.  Six of one, half dozen of the other.

So, what's missing?  No, I did not forget a "battery booster".  I don't want one.  Period.  I do not care that
I am unable to wring every last electron from my battery in order to get a full 100 w transmit power.  So
what if I can only get 80 watts out due to voltage dropping a bit?  The other station will never hear the
difference.  That's less than 1 db, or a tiny fraction of an S-unit, and it is inaudible.  A battery booster would
encourage damage to the battery by drawing it down too low.  Nope, I don't want one.

I also use an A/C power supply with my "go kit" that has a built in battery backup module.  When operating
from A/C, if the power is interrupted the power supply will automatically switch to battery power without
blinking.  When A/C is restored, it will switch back.  You can buy such units that can be added to your
system from Astron, Samlex, and KI0BK.

And finally, you need some way to monitor battery voltage and stay within the proper operating range.  I use
this one from KI0BK.  

http://ki0bk.no-ip.com/~pwrgate/LLPG/Site/SLA_Batt_Mon.html



I have it mounted in the recommended clear plastic box from Mouser, the part number required is on that
page.  A digital voltmeter could also be used.  However you do this, you need voltage monitoring so that you
know the state of your battery at all times.

[Forest Gump]Well, that's about it.[/Forest Gump]

Tag.  This is another project I've had in queue for a while that I've never gotten around to.  

Sounds good. Your calculations on power draw and duty cycle remind me of a power supply I once saw for HF rigs. It only supplied 5A continuous but had a large capacitor in it that allowed it to run CW and SSB at 100w since average current draw in those modes is typically under 5A.

I have your previous thread bookmarked with the intention of setting up a solar system soon and really appreciate the update and your clear explanations and guidance.

I plan on getting this done soon to use with my new FT-857D.

Thanks!!!

Thanks, guys!




Yes, a close personal friend and ham, and member of this forum uses such a power supply with his portable kit.  It is very small and light.

http://www.gammaresearch.net/hps-1a.html

You are welcome!

I'll be making a way to stand the panels up at a 45* angle with some hinged fold out pieces of aluminum.  I need
to get over to Home Despot and see what I can find as suitable material.

you're a good man, Jupiter7200.

Good thread.

ETA: could we sticky this as an official catch-all thread for solar powered operations?

Thanks for the kudos, guys!

Check this out
https://www.bereadysolar.com/product_info.php?products_id=135&osCsid=d46c47c18e7b9d431e36852509ea7e32

I have no connection to this, but have one and it is a great system, just add a battery. Very portable and includes everything you need. Business owner is a ham too, great guy to deal with.

Looks excellent!  Same specs as the panels I have.  Looks like the panels come in a carry bag and have handles mounted.  I wonder if they have a stand
of some sort to prop them up?  A little more than what I spent for my system, but it has everything in one package.  That will certainly do the job.

It has two legs that fold out and you can adjust the angle. I think it is perfect for what you are doing. Let me see if I can get a picture or two.

I will be adding some legs to our solar panels.

So that kit has the panels, carry bag, and charge controller?

yes, 2 50w panels, with legs for a stand and a charge controler with all cables. just need to add a battery and it all folds up into that carrying case (minus the battery of course)

I love solar operations.

Are you running the laptop from solar, too?

Yes.

That was my set-up for field day this year. Had plenty of sunshine to keep the KX3 and laptop running strictly from the panels without dipping into the battery. In fact, it didn't start using battery reserves until 9:45pm that day.

Darn you guys....I just went and ordered this.

Here are the specs, and a more detailed description.

There is another spec sheet - Looks like this one is more updated.  

New link for specs - Specs

Great post as always, Jup.  This is on my "to do" list.  Especially thankful for your charge controller and battery monitor recommendations.  There are SO may options, and they are all expensive, but it is good to hear what actually works in the real world, first hand.

Thanks, Popov!  

All gear was first tested in extended tests in my back yard, and then, in actual portable operations.  I have
confidence that it will all work as intended.

I had found some inexpensive Pelican type (not Pelican brand) cases at MCM Electronics, and were on a
"free shipping" sale recently.  Now we have a way of keeping everything organized and transportable without
the use of laundry baskets, old cardboard boxes, etc.  So, charge controllers, power cables, antenna stuff,
all in just a few easy to grab and load up cases.

ANDERSON POWERPOLES!  These are the schiznitz!  And using the proper crimper is a necessity.  Both
Powerwerx and Quicksilver Radio have suitable crimpers.  On this and other projects I use Powerpoles like
they are going out of style.  Don't forget the little retaining clips.  Keep a dozen in your kit and secure all
that you can when operating.

That be ready solar site has some great looking connector cables plus that 27 watt foldable panel has my name on it.  Looks like I'll be launching my solar powered emcomm project sooner rather than later.

Tagging this, I want to get a system in place for my repeater for any extended outages, it has a battery backup setup, also when it goes to battery it drops power to conserve battery.

This sounds very doable. Now just need to figure out how to charge the portables as well off the same system.

Three hints to better your charging system from a long time 12v solar charging system user:

Increase wire size.  If you conserve volts in your wiring from panels to batts, amps will take care of themselves in a small system, less than 300-400w.   Desired is less than a 2% loss in volts from panel(s) to controller and less than a 1% volt lose bwtn controller and batts.  ETA: Controller should be relatively close to batts.

http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=2.061&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=60&distanceunit=feet&eres=8&x=42&y=5

Charge AGM’s to 14.4v for/during use.  Remember, float V is only for maintaining during non-use.

http://bdbatteries.com/mcharging_procedures.php

Battery monitor should count amphours.  While tracking volts is a good idea, keeping track of in/out of AH is much more effective in knowing state-of-charge.

http://bogartengineering.com/content/trimetrics/

Have fun!

Well it arrived yesterday, but....

They are drop shipped directly from the manufacturer, and it arrived very quickly.  However, they make two versions of this solar suitcase.  One comes with the controller, and the other comes without it.  Something got messed up in the order, and I was sent the version without the controller.  

Not to worry though, as Eric, the gentleman who runs Be Ready Solar, has already called me twice at home, to get it sorted out. They are going to ship the correct version and provide me with a return shipping label to make it easy for me to return the other.  I'll post some pictures when I get it.

Outstanding customer service, and  seems like a good company to do business with.  

Kekoa, ever get it up and running?

Dupe

Nope.  I haven't received the correct solar suitcase yet.  Still waiting for it to arrive.

You and those Anderson Power Poles!

I swear!

"Hey Jupe! I think I picked up the crabs from that stripper I picked up at the club the other night."

"No sweat, Pic. Let me get the Anderson Power Poles, my crimpers and some wire. We'll electrocute those little bastards!"

You got stock in that company or somethin'?

Powerpoles!!!  I have red, black, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, and gray.  No white.  I have
baggies of 15, 30, and 45 amp size.  A few dozen of the little retainer clips.  Those are cool.

Where I live if someone says, "Hey, Jup, didja hear?  Sally's got crabs!"  You reply, "Spillway
crabs?  How much a bushell?"

Koloa, Ever get it up and running?

Getting closer.

I received the correct solar panels, with the controller, last week.  And Eric, from Be Ready Solar, sent me an optional power pole cable, as an apology for the mix-up. Very nice, considering it really wasn't his fault.  A good company to do business with.   I haven't really tried them out, but just sitting in my living room they were  producing about 17 volts.

So, I have the solar panels/controller, and various cables, but, I don't have a battery yet.  I got sidetracked with a couple of home repair issues.  The damn garage door broke (literally....two of the door panels cracked), and the roof sprung a small leak.  Neither one is a huge problem, but they are using up some of my "ham radio money".  Once I take care of those issues, I'll get back to to the solar project.

Sounds like your well on your way to be set up for "off the grid" power for your radio.

The reason I did this writeup about sizing is that this confuses hams that should know better, never mind the
new guys.  

I cannot believe the number of people that will say, you have a 100 w radio, you need 100 w of solar panel.  No.  
It's not that simple.

With an FM 2m (or 70 cm) rig calculation is pretty straight forward.  Current draw is pretty constant during transmit
regardless of modulation.  The signal varies in frequency only, not in amplitude.  So you figure current draw during
transmit, and current draw during receive, and figure out how much time you spend in an hour doing each.

But for HF SSB it is a different story.  While you need a 22 amp supply for a 100 w HF rig, the 22 amps is only on
the peaks.  Current draw by the transmitter is proportional to the signal modulation.  I have V and A meters on my
power supply.  When I key the mic, if I don't speak, the current draw increases hardly at all, a tiny fraction of an amp.  

But when I begin speaking the amp meter's needle is wiggling.  For 100 w peaks it is actually drawing an AVERAGE
of 8-9 amps, depending on mic gain and compression.  That's one duty cycle.  The other duty cycle is transmit vs.
receive.  How much do you transmit?  15 minutes out of each hour?  Wow!  You really are yakking!  I doubt I would
talk that much in an hour even in my role as net control of a big regional net.  Perhaps 10 minutes is a better estimate.  
And for everyone else, 5 minutes in an hour?  Maybe.  During an emergency net you should be like a good child, and
speak only when spoken to.

With a lot of power down in the region the bands will be very quiet.  You might be able to reduce your power to just 50,
or maybe even 25 watts output.  That is still more savings.

When transmitting AM, or high duty cycle digital, a 100 w SSB radio is at maximum only 25-40 watts during transmit,
with most doing 25 watts.  I think my old IC-718 would transmit at 40 watts in those other modes.  During transmit, like
FM, the current usage is pretty constant.  If you use these modes simply measure it.

So, we found that a 50 w panel would more than keep up with a 100 w SSB rig during the daylight hours, with current
to spare, quickly bringing the battery back to full charge and float after unkeying the mic.  Ditto for a 50 w FM rig.  For
both rigs, a 50 w panel could keep up the battery, too, but would not restore full charge as quickly.  

I cannot more highly recommend the batteries from www.gruberpower.com, particularly the Elite series.

I'm glad to see you guys like this thread.

I liked it alright!  (But you make me spend a lot of money.)

I am building basically the same setup you describe.  So far I have the 100W panel, the charge controller and low loss powergate.  I just this morning ordered the Gruber Elite 35 AH battery.

I've also built and use two of the OCFD antennas from your previous write up.  Both are cut for 40m and I have one and my son has the other.  Both work great.  My son's is still lying on his roof and he regularly works DX on all bands with JT65.

You are a bad influence on us!  

Bwahahahahahaha!!!

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I'll get my battery from Gruber Power. I'm taking a simpler approach for backup power for the base station.  The battery will sit out in the garage, connected to a Battery Tender. If power goes out, I'll simply carry the battery inside, and connect it to the rig (Powerpoles for the win).  The same battery will be used for any portable operations. The solar panels will be for keeping the  the battery charged during a power outage, and of course for portable ops.

I know KI0BK makes a low loss power gate, but I'm not crazy about putting anything else between the power supply, and the radio.  I already get about a .5 volt loss, just going through the Rig Runner, and that seems somewhat high, to me.   As things are, the voltage is plenty adequate for everything I do, but I'm not crazy about putting anything else in line with the radio.   I'm even considering  dumping the Rig Runner.

He ain't lying. Tis a bit different here. Once watched the XYL beat a crab trying to crawl out of the boiling pot with a wooden spoon going "Get (bang) your ass (bang) back in there and (bang) die. (bang)"

Anyhow, my epic fail during field day concerning power requirements has me thinking. Wanting to put together a go-box just for power. Normal power supply if I have mains or a generator available running the rig and charging the batteries. Mains go out then auto switch to battery. Solar charging as backup. On the list as nice to have is a USB jack to charge the cellphone.

The fail was due to me being the 'digi guy' and way underestimating the duty cycle. Need more storage than I planned for.

Tag for future reference.

Jupiter

I completely agree about 50w being enough panel for operations. but the 100w suitcase with charge controller was just too easy for me to grab and go. did you factor in any loss for length of cable runs? just curious, you seem to have covered everything else.


Never mind, i reread your post and see that you are actually running 100w of solar.

Yes, once I figured what I would need to maintain charge at 100 w USB and a modest duty cycle, I doubled my solar panels to
100 w.

And I found I could run one 100 w SSB rig and one 50 FM rig with that setup.  And could operate 5-6 hours into the evening if need be.  
Then get up the next morning and do it all over again... as long as the sun was shining.

Cable loss.  I didn't calculate it at all.  I just used large cables for the longer runs.  6 feet from battery to radio, 12 ga was plenty good
enough.  But 10'-15', I have some of what must be larger than 10 ga.  Probably 8 ga.  Comparing to 10 ga, it's larger.

The battery voltage gadget kept me informed of the state of the battery.  I'm fully comfortable with the system as it is now, that it will
do what I need to be done.

Those gruber elite batts are heavy!

My intended design is for SHTF portable operation.  

That's a lot of friggin weight to be lugging around.

It's a lot of weight if you plan to go backpacking with it. More like an impossible amount of weight for backpacking.  But to me, portable means I load it in the back of my truck,  drive somewhere and then set up on a picnic table in the park.

Good point and a more likely deployment I reckon.  I just envision my whole setup fitting into a pelican case (not a huge one either).  But yes, I would most likely deploy it in a semi-static "camp" type mode.

That's my definition of portable, too.  Or as I did, set up on a folding table under some trees... (by the courthouse).  Perhaps, after a hurricane, with a big sign that says, "Send Messages via Ham Radio".

If you want something backpackable to the top of some mountain you might think of getting some pack goats, or trimming your radio power and time on air way, way, way down.

In the end, you can only do what you can do.

So,

Question....

Is there a charge controller that can do variable voltages? I see several that can do 12/24V, which is fine for a few applications, but I have a netbook that I would also like to charge, it looks like that wants 18V, and I do have a few other radios that want 15V for charging batteries.

Not one charge controller that will do all of that.  A charge controller is carefully tailored, or adjusted, to have
the right charge and float voltages.

You can buy chargers for your laptop that will work from "12 volts", that come with a cigarette lighter plug, or
as they call them these days, "automotive power point".  It's by the ashtray.

I bought one of these power supplies for my laptop.  It pumps the 13.8 volts (car voltage is not really 12 volts)
up to 19 volts to run the computer.  I cut the cord about 6" from the plug, and put Anderson Powerpoles on the
two resulting ends.  This way I can plug the power supply into the power buss (Powerpole strip) just behind the
radio in my kit.  Or I can plug the cigarette lighter plug back on and use it in the vehicle.

You can get these "12 volt" power supplies on eBay or Amazon for about $10.

Great info, thanks for compiling it!

I've been researching this topic also since I want to build a solar powered juice system for my radios.

Doing some battery type research I found that the newer Lithium-Iron batteries are the best type in terms of number of cycles before they bite the dust.  Not as cheap as the AGM, however they are much lighter in a power/weight ratio.

What do you guys think of this type?

There's a small company making a solar bundle here in US.  http://www.solar24.pw/

However, it does not have enough storage capacity for long time operations unless using QRP.



As for solar panels, I have a model from Ascent Solar that works great for recharging a power module that I use to recharge my phones and tablets while on the go.  

http://www.goenerplex.com/products/portable-solar-chargers/kickr-iv

It works really well charging a battery module like this one, which I have been using for a few years and it's quite reliable.
http://www.goenerplex.com/products/portable-batteries/jumpr-prime-10400
The module I use is also from them but was replaced by this one.

I was thinking about this new model until I read about the need for at least 50W.

http://www.goenerplex.com/products/large-scale-solar-chargers/commandr-xii

It does not generate so much power but is much lighter and packs smaller than most panels.


My reasoning is that I want to build a power system that I can put in a backpack with other stuff (water, food, etc.) and not break my back.


Thoughts?

It's like flying a plane.  It's all a balance between passenger weight, cargo weight, and fuel/range... gross weight.

So, by putting the limitation that you have to be able to carry the rig, the battery, solar panels, food, water, etc, packing it
yourself, you have pretty much limited yourself to a QRP rig.  So, go through all the calculations based on that.



Looks like you need some pack goats, pack mules.  Look up this guy.

https://www.qrz.com/db/WG0AT

https://www.youtube.com/user/goathiker



And the further adventures of Steve WG0AT, Rooster, and Peanut.

Anyone knows or uses this system?

http://www.renogy-store.com/100W-12V-Mono-Solar-Starter-Kit-p/kit-starter100d.htm

They will run a black Friday promo.

Edit to ask: what's the practical difference between mono and polycrystalline solar panels?   The information I found online does not offer any conclusive data.  

Jupiter, do you know the source for the clear plastic case your battery monitor is in?

Mouser.  It is the exact same case the Solar Battery Charge Controller comes in.  The battery backup module is
the same but for color (blue).

Hammond Mfg. 1591ATCL Mouser# 546-1591ATCL

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond/1591ATCL/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujlc0pdlrU1%252ba92XAUbwHe1UZ%252bRPeRYPgs%3d

I had to drill a few holes.  One on the end, for the 18 ga red/black zip cord to exit.  I used a tiny Ty-wrap on the zip cord as a strain relief.

One hole on top cover for the button.

I drilled 5 holes on the top cover over the little piezo beeper.  

I spaced the board up off the bottom of the case with some little clear stick on feet, and just to make sure, a few little dabs of E6000 adhesive
here and there to make sure the board stays put.

As it comes, the KI0BK Battery monitor is set up for Lead-Acid and AGM battery chemistry.

KI0BK BattMon

Voltage Range:          7-16 Volts DC Max

Average Current Usage: <250 microAmps

Over Voltage Alarm:    >14.00 volts           Magenta LED + alarm

Full Charge:            13.30 - 14.00 volts   Blue    LED (low battery alarm auto reset)

On Battery Charging:    11.00 - 13.30 volts   Green   LED

On Battery Discharging: 11.00 - 13.30 volts   Orange  LED

Low Battery Alarm:     <11.00 volts           Red     LED + alarm (silenced via a button)

Thank you!