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Posted: 7/24/2014 5:49:11 AM EDT
I *need* to get my patch panel up and running.

That means I need 6 patch cables (12 pl259s), 6 to window unit (12 pl259s), and 6 to the radios (12 pl259s). I really don't want to have to solder up 36 connectors. I keep telling myself if will be awesome to be able to stick my SDR on my 40m antenna in a matter of seconds, or swap VHF antennas without having to go outside.

With all that said I need a crimper and some connectors. Where is the best place to buy them?
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 6:00:18 AM EDT
[#1]
http://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-ut-crimp

I normally get my connectors from the wireman.

http://thewireman.com/newconnect1.html  Part# 1126
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 6:00:39 AM EDT
[#2]
This is relevant to my interests.

On a side note (remotely related), I went back and forth about buying a PowerPole crimper and wow, I'm really glad that I invested the money up front. What a great tool that TRIcrimp is.
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 6:02:05 AM EDT
[#3]
I've been wanting the Andy-Crimp tool for some time now....
The Ultimate Powerpole & Coax Strip, Prep, and Crimp Kit

really nice dude-YMMV
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 6:08:25 AM EDT
[#4]
I don't know the best place to buy them, but so far Ive been reasonably happy with the Andy-Crimp Pro, and the connectors I've gotten from Quicksilver Radio.  The other crimper people seem to like, it the TRICrimp, which is available from Power Werx (and maybe some other places, too).

I've ordered from both places.  Quicksilver is quite slow with their processing, and the service from  Power Werx was  very good.

I converted to crimping a while back, and like it.  I just made up a short coax jumper cable yesterday, and was glad to be crimping, and not soldering.  I DO still solder the center lead of the coax, though (relatively easy).
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 6:26:18 AM EDT
[#5]
Hmm I forgot about the coax/power pole crimper combo. The Berryville hamfest is coming up and I am pretty sure there will be one there. So far I have been soldering my power poles, but that takes a while and if you're not careful sometimes they don't fit back into the housing.

I was going to do like BD and use BNC but think I will stick with pl259. I don't plan on switching stuff around too often and don't really do much over HF.
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 6:30:37 AM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Hmm So far I have been soldering my power poles, but that takes a while and if you're not careful sometimes they don't fit back into the housing.
View Quote


The Andy-Crimp Pro works like a champ on the 30 amp Power Pole connectors.  Very easy.   However, on the 45 amp compactors, it takes a little practice and finesse to get a good result.
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 6:30:46 AM EDT
[#7]
You live about an hour south of a great place - TheRFC
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 6:33:57 AM EDT
[#8]
I recently picked up a ratchet crimp tool from "The RF Connection" (therfc.com) with  .213/.225/.429/.068 crimp points on the same jaw insert, for use with LMR400 equivalent and RG-8x, along with a batch of connectors. The tool (HT-336D2) was $37.50 & it works nicely.  They were good folks to deal with.

Nick
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 6:37:08 AM EDT
[#9]
I wasn't sure if I wanted to crimp, I bought a cheap crimper off Ebay for 28 bucks. I used to dread soldering connectors, I would have to redo one now and then. That cheap crimp tool made life a lot easier. The connectors I bought still needed the center conductor soldered, the next ones I get will have the crimp pin for the center conductor.

  Im not sure why I was hesitant to start crimping connectors, years ago I used to install satellite TV and internet dishes. I never had a crimp issue with them.
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 7:30:12 AM EDT
[#10]
I know the guy that owns Quicksilver personally.  He usually makes it to our hamfest (Drumlins ARC) every spring.  Though, this year, due to the big one in MD, he wasn't able to make it.  I've mostly bought powerpole related stuff from him, for myself and the club.
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 9:45:03 AM EDT
[#11]
Welcome to the dark side.  I think you'll like it over here!

I'd recommend the ratcheting crimp tool from N5IAW on eBay.  It's $32 shipped.  It looks to be the same one sold by DXE, only without the fancy handles.  The documentation is a little light, but you can download the DXE manual, which is excellent.  

The tool works great.  He also sells the extra die sets for larger coax and for Powerpoles.  And silver-plated telfon connectors.  

Coax Crimp Tool

DXE Crimper Manual
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 3:42:51 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
http://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-ut-crimp

I normally get my connectors from the wireman.

http://thewireman.com/newconnect1.html  Part# 1126
View Quote

You can usually find a decent crimp tool for about half that price.  (example)

The question is, what size cable are you going to use?  If you're making short little patch cables for non-QRO HF, I'd suggest RG8X/LMR240 size, if not just RG58 size.

If you want RG8/LMR400 size, you'll need the die for the larger size connectors which is less common.
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 3:51:21 PM EDT
[#13]
My plan for everything to the panel and all but one of the jumpers and the two HF antenna cables to be LMR240 ultra flex. The one jumper and two HF antenna jumpers will be something like LMR400.

The one HF jumper will be to send my amp to the HF antennas. Everything else will be barefoot HF/VHF 100/50w.
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 4:00:59 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
LMR240 ultra flex
View Quote

I'm advising against that cable anymore.   I've had some connectors failing over time due to shield wires breaking at the connector... my theory is that the jacket is just so flexible and stretchy that it doesn't offer any support to the wires.  I've been trying the "Wireman" similar product... it has a jacket more like a traditional vinyl jacket, the center conductor is also quite a bit finer stranded for better flexibility overall.  One disadvantage of the finely stranded center conductor is you do have to be careful that you don't get a strand that folds back when you insert the wire into the connector.  Be careful during assembly and check for a short with an ohmmeter before crimping.

Adding some of the molded strain reliefs can help connector life also.

I wouldn't use actual lmr400 for a jumper, it's really not good for something that gets flexed around.  Belden 9913F7 or the Wireman similar product are both pretty good for that application, or really just use any stranded RG8/RG213 type would be fine.  Maybe even better to get non-foam stranded cable to lessen any chance of center conductor migration.
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 6:18:15 PM EDT
[#15]
The LMR 400 won't be moved. It will go from the patch panel to the window bulkhead. I will keep that in mind about the 240uf. My main goal is to have this set in place so that when I do get the amp on the air I won't have to change anything.
Link Posted: 7/24/2014 6:23:05 PM EDT
[#16]
I needed to reroute a bunch of coax when I reorganized the shack.  The LMR400 just couldn't make the bends without compromising the cable.  The Wireman's Super8 has worked great.  I picked up another 50' of it for whenever the times comes I need another jumper.
Link Posted: 8/3/2014 1:54:08 PM EDT
[#17]
Went to the Beryville ham fest today. It was a much better fest then recent ones I have been to.

I picked up a crimper from quick silver. I got the one that does coax and power poles. So far I have made 6 of the 12 cables I need and it has been working great.

The R F connection made me a good deal on 2 dozen pl259 crimp on connectors. I plan on using him again. They got the most of my money today with all the good little extras you always need.
Link Posted: 8/3/2014 2:49:43 PM EDT
[#18]
Pics of your handiwork please!!!
Link Posted: 8/3/2014 3:19:52 PM EDT
[#19]
I am still learning. I tried using heat shrink at one point to make it a little prettier but not sure if it matters.

I thought it would be a good idea to do a continuity test before I soldered the tips. I found 2 that were bad. I fixed the one pretty quick and easy. The second one I noticed there was a pinch about half way down That is what I get for using old coax I guess.



Two are old solder on connectors that I made a while ago. They go to my two HF antennas so that in the future when I go QRO I will already have them in place.
Link Posted: 8/3/2014 3:37:07 PM EDT
[#20]
I am strongly considering going this route

I need to do a little homework first

Link Posted: 8/3/2014 3:44:49 PM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I am strongly considering going this route

View Quote


I bought this one



I got it because it does power poles too. I like my connectors from the RF connection, and at $1.75 they are the best price I could find.
Link Posted: 8/3/2014 4:08:09 PM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


I bought this one

http://www.qsradio.com/crimp%20Set%20Ultimate.jpg

I got it because it does power poles too. I like my connectors from the RF connection, and at $1.75 they are the best price I could find.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I am strongly considering going this route



I bought this one

http://www.qsradio.com/crimp%20Set%20Ultimate.jpg

I got it because it does power poles too. I like my connectors from the RF connection, and at $1.75 they are the best price I could find.



I already have the TRI Crimp tool,

So I'm looking for a dedicated Crimper fro the coax (So I don't have to switch dies).

Ad far as connectors I'd like to go with the silver plated ones
Link Posted: 8/3/2014 4:13:21 PM EDT
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I already have the TRI Crimp tool,

So I'm looking for a dedicated Crimper fro the coax (So I don't have to switch dies).

Ad far as connectors I'd like to go with the silver plated ones
View Quote


Yeah I just went and made a power cable. Changing dies could become a hassle.

The RFC has silver ones for .25 more. These are all inside and will probably be replaced when I move, again.
Link Posted: 8/3/2014 4:13:54 PM EDT
[#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
<a href="http://s1166.photobucket.com/user/jnu5/media/20140803_191416_zpstuuiet32.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q610/jnu5/20140803_191416_zpstuuiet32.jpg</a>
View Quote

On that first one that doesn't have heat shrink, the crimp ferrule doesn't look like it's all the way against the connector body.  When you go to crimp those, make sure you push the ferrule tight against the connector.  If you don't, a connector that gets put through much stress can break where the inner piece meets the main body of the connector.
Link Posted: 8/3/2014 4:54:11 PM EDT
[#25]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


You live about an hour south of a great place - TheRFC
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


You live about an hour south of a great place - TheRFC
Thanks for that link!  I've been looking for RG-316 to build short cables for test & measurement.
         
Quoted:



Quoted:

LMR240 ultra flex


I'm advising against that cable anymore.   I've had some connectors failing over time due to shield wires breaking at the connector... my theory is that the jacket is just so flexible and stretchy that it doesn't offer any support to the wires.  I've been trying the "Wireman" similar product... it has a jacket more like a traditional vinyl jacket, the center conductor is also quite a bit finer stranded for better flexibility overall.  One disadvantage of the finely stranded center conductor is you do have to be careful that you don't get a strand that folds back when you insert the wire into the connector.  Be careful during assembly and check for a short with an ohmmeter before crimping.



Adding some of the molded strain reliefs can help connector life also.



I wouldn't use actual lmr400 for a jumper, it's really not good for something that gets flexed around.  Belden 9913F7 or the Wireman similar product are both pretty good for that application, or really just use any stranded RG8/RG213 type would be fine.  Maybe even better to get non-foam stranded cable to lessen any chance of center conductor migration.


LMR-240UF and LMR-400UF are both great for indoor jumpers.  The real weakness of the Ultraflex variation is that it has less UV resistance than the regular coax -- a non-issue for indoor cables.  For outdoor jumpers & feeds, they can still be protected from the sun with split loom tubing.



Regarding failure at the connector, try what I do:  Put a piece of 3:1 ratio adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing over the crimp sleeve and about 3/4" beyond.  Use the smallest tubing you can (don't forget to slip it over before crimping the connector!).  I also add TZ-tape labels with my call sign, the coax type and length on top of that, then put another piece of clear 3:1 heat shrink on top of that (slightly longer than the black).  You get a VERY robust strain relief against over-flexing and a purty li'l label too.  



If you need strain relief against pulling, use clamp-type connectors.  I use those for outdoor connections because they have two V-profile gaskets and are waterproof (mine still get 3:1 non-adhesive heat shrink over the entire connector when outdoors).



 
Link Posted: 8/3/2014 4:56:33 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

On that first one that doesn't have heat shrink, the crimp ferrule doesn't look like it's all the way against the connector body.  When you go to crimp those, make sure you push the ferrule tight against the connector.  If you don't, a connector that gets put through much stress can break where the inner piece meets the main body of the connector.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
<a href="http://s1166.photobucket.com/user/jnu5/media/20140803_191416_zpstuuiet32.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q610/jnu5/20140803_191416_zpstuuiet32.jpg</a>

On that first one that doesn't have heat shrink, the crimp ferrule doesn't look like it's all the way against the connector body.  When you go to crimp those, make sure you push the ferrule tight against the connector.  If you don't, a connector that gets put through much stress can break where the inner piece meets the main body of the connector.


It isn't. It took me a couple before I figured out how to hold the ferrule with the crimper and pull/push the connector in place.
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