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Posted: 4/2/2014 12:02:24 PM EDT
[#1]
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Fixed it fer ya! The radio works GREAT on SSB or CW at 10 watts and can handle both of those all day long. It's digital modes with near 100% duty cycles that are highly susceptible to frequency drift that are at issue here. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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The bottom line is that the factory heat sink is not adequate to dissipate the heat if you operate your KX3 at 10 watts in a high duty cycle mode. Increasing the size of the heat sink and adding some kind of thermal conducting material is a must to allow for that heat to be dissipated. Your mileage may vary, so be careful.  Fixed it fer ya! The radio works GREAT on SSB or CW at 10 watts and can handle both of those all day long. It's digital modes with near 100% duty cycles that are highly susceptible to frequency drift that are at issue here. I bet the KX3's "High Temp" warning would kick in pretty damned quick on a 100F day. Even if all you were using was SSB or CW. My guess is that you would still have to do the Extended VFO Temperature Compensation Procedure to minimize drift for JT65 and JT9. |
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Posted: 4/2/2014 12:27:34 PM EDT
[#2]
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BigDaddy - while you are waiting for the arrival of the heat sink, can you try Digital at 10 watts with some popular modes that are known trouble makers to get a "before" state and post results? Maybe screen shots of the waterfall drifting? I think it would be awesome to get a pre experimental point of reference to see how much effect this has! VERY much looking forward to your results! I can give screen shots of the RX side. Usually the guardian and I have a pretty good path
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Posted: 4/2/2014 12:46:53 PM EDT
[#3]
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BigDaddy - while you are waiting for the arrival of the heat sink, can you try Digital at 10 watts with some popular modes that are known trouble makers to get a "before" state and post results? Maybe screen shots of the waterfall drifting? I think it would be awesome to get a pre experimental point of reference to see how much effect this has! VERY much looking forward to your results! Quote HistoryQuoted:
BigDaddy - while you are waiting for the arrival of the heat sink, can you try Digital at 10 watts with some popular modes that are known trouble makers to get a "before" state and post results? Maybe screen shots of the waterfall drifting? I think it would be awesome to get a pre experimental point of reference to see how much effect this has! VERY much looking forward to your results! The new heatsink and both the Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound and Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive showed up today. I started recording some data last night with the stock heatsink running 10w on JT65. While waiting for the rest of the stuff to arrive, I'll try to get some more baseline data. Even got an emailed screenshot of my signal drifting (I think), from a Russian station. 
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Posted: 4/2/2014 12:50:09 PM EDT
[#4]
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I can give screen shots of the RX side. Usually the guardian and I have a pretty good path Tnx gcw. The Guardian needs all the help he can get! 
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Posted: 4/2/2014 4:19:59 PM EDT
[#5]
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I just read an interesting post on another site by the guy who makes the larger profile heatsink mentioned earlier in this thread. He was replying to someone who questioned why the heatsinks are so expensive to the end user. This is the guy I emailed directly to get the pricing info on his heatsink. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just read an interesting post on another site by the guy who makes the larger profile heatsink mentioned earlier in this thread. He was replying to someone who questioned why the heatsinks are so expensive to the end user. This is the guy I emailed directly to get the pricing info on his heatsink. KX3 heatsink
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In point of fact, the first one I just made took 4.5 hours to make on a Haas CNC mill. That is a $450.00 expense up front for the prototype. Here is how it breaks down: There is Master Cad programming, rough out the blanks so they can be strapped into the mill, trial, adjust, another trial, adjust, mill. Oops, one hole is exactly its own diameter off. Programming mistake. Adjust, re-cut. Throw the mistake into the recycling bin. Now to go to production- You have to produce 50 pieces or more to get the cost under $40.00. 50 x 40= $2000. You now have a $2450.00 investment. If the seller is charging $50.00 he is making $10 per copy. He has to sell 245 pieces to break even. No profit yet. Do you think he can sell 245 heat sinks? He couldn't and that is why he is no longer in the heat sink business. BTW I am offering them for $55.00 in mill finish. You can email me directly at fsmeier(at)telus.net Exactly People look at something and say "That much for a chunk of metal, why I could make one cheaper" They have no idea of the cost and effort that goes into an item even before it goes into production. I have a small CNC mill that I make things on. The mill was a few thousand dollars. The software to draw then convert that drawing to CNC commands was a few thousand dollars. The software that runs the CNC machine was a few hundred dollars The computer was a few hundred dollars. The driver box was another few hundred dollars, The tooling was more money, than the holding fixtures. The list goes on and on Then I had to put it all together, get the software configured, align the machine (and buy more tools just to do that) then spend many hours learning all the software. I would tend to believe he is earning his price. |
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Posted: 4/3/2014 3:26:29 AM EDT
[#6]
Powder coating a heat sink is less than optimal. I would think anodizing would be offered as its way more thermally conductive than powdercoat.
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Posted: 4/3/2014 11:29:16 AM EDT
[#7]
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Powder coating a heat sink is less than optimal. I would think anodizing would be offered as its way more thermally conductive than powdercoat. Great catch on that design! Yes, for best efficiency remove the powder coat from the surface that is the thermal interface and then just conversion coat it to prevent corrosion/oxidation with Alodine. Clean and prep per the instructions because bare Aluminum oxidizes very quickly. So the bottom will be bright and the top will be powder coated. Still not optimum but much better. |
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Posted: 4/3/2014 12:31:58 PM EDT
[#8]
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Great catch on that design! Yes, for best efficiency remove the powder coat from the surface that is the thermal interface and then just conversion coat it to prevent corrosion/oxidation with Alodine. Clean and prep per the instructions because bare Aluminum oxidizes very quickly. So the bottom will be bright and the top will be powder coated. Still not optimum but much better. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Powder coating a heat sink is less than optimal. I would think anodizing would be offered as its way more thermally conductive than powdercoat. Great catch on that design! Yes, for best efficiency remove the powder coat from the surface that is the thermal interface and then just conversion coat it to prevent corrosion/oxidation with Alodine. Clean and prep per the instructions because bare Aluminum oxidizes very quickly. So the bottom will be bright and the top will be powder coated. Still not optimum but much better. If you use that make sure you have the surface absolutely clean. I used that a lot in the Navy. |
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Posted: 4/3/2014 1:51:45 PM EDT
[#9]
I emailed Fred VE7FMN about his version of the KX3 heatsink. Here is his reply to my asking if the bottom of the heat sink was powder coated. I still think the larger heat sink would be the one I would buy if I owned a KX3. Hi Bob. Yes, I have left the bottoms bare. The thinking is this- KX3 users are complaining that the factory plate is insufficient in getting the heat out of the radio for digital modes. I made a lab study, and an engineering decision that contributory to the insufficient heat transfer are the three layers of paint that Elecraft have installed between the PA chips and the outside world. When you replace the factory 'heat sink' you eliminate one of them, while adding at least twice the mass to the foot plate, and adding almost 40 square inches of radiant fins. You might ask the design considerations of my/your heatsink- 1. Increase the mass of the heatsink for improved initial heat uptake. 2. Add surface area to help pull the heat out of the foot plate by conduction into the fins. 3. Sturdy fins that help set up convective currents (no natter how small)- hence the orientation of the fins when the rig is in the normal operating attitude 4. Matte black powder coating to prevent corrosion (insulates), enhance the visual experience (looks good), and the near black color contributes to radiant heat rejection to the room air. 5. Radiused fin ends to reduce snagging and personal injury. 6. oversized end bolsters to protect the heatsink form impact damage and to provide accessory attachment points. 7. Made in Canada, never contracted to an overseas sweatshop. I originally offered plain unfinished heatsinks, and do so only by special order now as the powder coating process costs $2.00 more than the spray paint required to DIY the finish at home. I do not offer anodizing as only Type 3 military hard surface anodizing has a positive effect on heat transfer. The downside is that anodizing cannot match the radio because the radio is not anodized. True flat black is extremely difficult to achieve. I strive to provide the same level of service that you will come to receive from Elecraft. I hope to be of some assistance, Cheers, Fred, VE7FMN |
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Posted: 4/14/2014 6:44:17 AM EDT
[#10]
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I like the look of this heatsink very much and may consider getting one for my KX3. Thanks K9-Bob for the tip. 
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http://www.aerodynes.fr/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/IMG_20140325_152422-1024x757.jpg If I owned the KX3 I am absolutely certain that I would buy this heat sink. The guy even rounded off the sharp edges and the powder coat looks top notch. As with all things you often times get what you pay for. I like the look of this heatsink very much and may consider getting one for my KX3. Thanks K9-Bob for the tip.
What's the ARFCOM motto? "GET BOTH"! Well, I just ordered the VE7FMN KX3 heatsink as well. I want to see how large a difference the cooling fins make. BTW, Fred VE7FMN's heatsink now has a name... 
Apr 05, 2014; 8:02pm Re: KX3 supplemental heat sink offering Fellow Hams, One of you wanted me to name my heatsinks. They have now officially been christened Cooler KX . The first production run is fully subscribed and the final in stock heatsink is on it's way to Sweden in 2 days(04/07/14). Pre-orders are being taken to gauge if there is further interest. The next batch could be done within two weeks if there are at least 10 interested hams willing to commit with me. Sorry there is no website, no credit card service, no hype, no personal engraving. I want to keep these affordable and made in Canada. Cheers, Fred, VE7FMN |
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Posted: 5/3/2014 3:43:34 PM EDT
[#11]
I've got a KX3 and am also looking into heatsinks but they are all a bit pricy right now. They really should be in the $50-$60 range finished based on my experience and that would still leave a very hefty profit margin. One brand of heatsink that is not on my short list is the N8WTT which test have shown to be about as efficient as a solid block of the same size with no fins. The KX3 crowd is also not too happy with this vendor because he copied the side panel design from Scott at gemsproducts.com but then makes the side panels out of softer material but thicker so they weigh about 4 times more and charges the same amount as the real deal.
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What were the things that you didn't care for with the KX3 ? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I am very tempted to buy a KX3 radio, but I really can't justify the cost. I don't think I would really use a QRP rig all that much. I'm pretty much the same way I have plans on getting one before summer. I have used one with the KPA100 amp and it was a nice setup. I have somethings that I don't like but the pros outweigh them. http://a.pomf.se/ejkcdr.jpg What were the things that you didn't care for with the KX3 ? |
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