Version 1.0 in action






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ICOM IC-703+

Edit: Version 1.0 !


















Edit 9: Version 0.95 lol.  So what's going on in that panel?  Why the two displays?

Well I wanted to be able to separate the internal battery from the circuit while keeping an eye on the voltage during charging.  This way the full charge input goes into bringing up the battery.  If the switch is On here then some charge will go into the battery, some into running the radio and outlets.

The external input doesn't charge anything.  It's simply a means to add an external power source/battery to run the radio and the 12v outputs.

Center off is radio and outputs off.  Either On position provides power to the 12V outputs (and the radio).










Edit 8: Version 0.9

Mock up of the control panel and wiring along with a shot of the Instapark 27w folding solar panel and Sunguard SG-4 solar controller.













CAD file for subsequent 3D printing




Assembly mockup.  The black is an approximation of the 25mm ammo can











Edit 7:  Version 0.8

In use at Tropical Park in Miami, FL today

(that's just a VHF/UHF HT with the whip)
















Edit 6:  The heck with the mounting tape lol.  I have industrial strength Velcro from when I added a Velcro side saddle to the shotgun.  It has already proven superior.  I initially dismissed it because it would mean one side being on the radio directly.  Later on I realized it didn't have to be, I could have put gorilla tape on the radio and the Velcro on that, but its ok.

The Velcro was for both the battery and the radio.  I've decided many things will be secured with Velcro.  The industrial seems to work well.





Velcro 'dots' to secure these items to the lid







Link to the plastic clamshell box: LINK


I'm doing the back to minimize the opening and closing of this end.  I'm brainstorming an Anderson PowerPole box that will be in the front area.  Or perhaps a panel.
That's the original radio wire setup.  I don't want to cut it so I'm rigging up a new one for the correct length.









EDIT5:  Bought some 1/8 Al from Lowes and bent it by hand on the vice.  I used Scotch Extreme Mounting Tape (double sided foam tape) to secure it to the ammo can.  The tape sucks.  It's clear that only VHB 4991 (GoPro stuff, which I've used) is the stuff that will work best.  But its ok for now.  The radio is mounted in such a way that I could still slip it out (I removed the feet).  9ah battery in the back (same size as the 7/7.2ah).





EDIT4:  Photoshop mockup for labels





EDIT3:  25mm polymer ammo cans, two are in the cardboard box shown below (source: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291002406779

They cleaned up ok.  Most importantly the seals seem to be good.  Upon finishing a brush down with an old paint brush and dishwashing detergent, I filled them to the brim with water and closed them up.

As I took mineral spirits and acetone to clean up the spray paint (the 'demilling process' where they spray over the whole "25mm Cartridges" and stuff) I banged the water filled boxes around and didn't note any water leakage.

Items of Interest:

-Mineral spirits works
-Acetone works much better and doesn't 'seem' to affect the polymer.
-If you're somewhat impatient, like me, and pour some fluid onto the sticker to work on the paint, it will function as intended.  But it will also get under the sticker and work on the glue lol.







EDIT2:  Cardboard Mockup, now with the 18ah battery














Original Post:

Wouxun UV2D HT
18Ah SLA/AGM battery (7.2 shown below for packaging ideas)

My vision so far is a junction area somewhere on the side of the frame.  A pigtail from the HF rig to the junction and a pigtail from the HT to the junction.  Then the regular outlets to actually connect the antenna.
My VHF/UHF portable is a N9TAX ladder line antenna.

Here is the main question:  Which HF antenna?

The range I'm going for is 80m and shorter.  The basic issue I'm finding is how to deal with the grounding.

Something I can roll up, minimal support needed (is there a way to tension paracord and just attach the wire to/from it?)


On a sidenote I'd like to do a mobile-themed semipermanent setup at the house.  Off Center Dipole?



Here is the foundation for the setup.  The two shelves are secured in place with zip ties and otherwise easily removed.  I removed the shoulder straps to take the pics.












EDIT:  found this http://wa3wsj.homestead.com/HF-Pack.html

Your solution is impressive, danpass.  I have used similar packs before, only frameless, but found the weight gets out of hand really fast.  The biggest culprit was the SLA battery I used.  Consider one of the newer LiFePO4 batteries for weight savings.  You'll be amazed at the difference!  

I like where this is going. Tagging also

How about one of the LNR (PAR) EndFedz antennas?  Or an AlexLoop, or one of the Buddipole variants?  Three Antenna Projects

Simple tensioner for paracord. I would use then cutting board material rather than waste a bucket for a handful of these.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-Line-Tensioners-for-Camping-and-Backpacking/?ALLSTEPS


Even simpler and dirt cheap.
http://prepforshtf.com/pull-tab-guyline-tensioner/#.UuWn6_so7UI


I have several of these cause I love gadgets.
http://www.niteize.com/product/Figure-9-Carabiner-Small.asp

http://www.niteize.com/product/Figure-9-Carabiner-Large.asp

http://www.niteize.com/product/Figure-9-Small.asp

http://www.niteize.com/product/Figure-9-Large.asp

For a compact roll up antenna that's a very packable yet great performer take a look at these.

http://www.radioworks.com/ccwlp.htm

Many years ago I had to carry Alice packs with the frame.  With both the Medium and Large Alice packs I don't remember it ever having enough room for a battery behind the kidney belt.  The kidney belt needs to have contoured contact otherwise the weight pushes straight on your spine.

After it's loaded down with weight and it gets used for a decent length the battery will get moved.  Why not put it all inside a Medium Alice pack and then the pack works for a light rain cover plus storage for extra stuff.

Cool concept for sure I'm interested to see the end result.

Theres no way I'm going to miss this thread, so OST.

My modified buddistick. It is a full 1/4 wave on 20m and does 15/10 by adjusting the overall length. It breaks down to 2lbs and fits in a 2' long 3" round bag.

It is made with 1/2 copper pipe, 10' military whip and 550 cord. there was a pvc base but I melted it trying to dry the paint with my heat gun.

you guys are killing me

that buddipole looks cool.  I guess I could add a simple endfed wire to the pack to lay out for 80m.

op edited as well

That's an 18ah SLA.

Spec says 11lbs but I think it's closer to 950 million lbs.

It's ok though .  That LiFePO4 from battery tender is on the buy list (just 2.1 lbs) and nearly the same form factor

Neat thread, Long "random" wire would be my choice for 20-40-80 portable.  I would go with some type of CB whip for anything higher then 20, might even be able to make it work for 20 with a manual tuner.
MFJ-971 can tune just about anything under 200W and is perfect for portable HF IMO.  I run one in my shack.
http://www.hamradio.com/detail.cfm?pid=H0-001321

In my Lights Out Saga Film Prop, I put the 'battery' in an ammo can to help keep it 'safe'.

I'd not mount the ht to the rack, and I'd center the rig on the board...antennas mounted to the frame for strengthening...

The HT can go in a pouch on you or the rack.  After completing the LOS radio rig, I decided that having the gear out there out in the open was a bad idea (  but that was how the story was written).......

I have a 'better' idea that mimics what BD has shown above with a little SCW shelf action that I hope to employ on the v.2 LOS bag for Promise Point.....

Typing on my tablet sux.....id be happy to share more ideas when i can get to a keyboard

ETA: Corrected TabletType and hotlinked LOS Pack

I would use HDPE (cutting board) I have bought sheets of it that were about 1/2 in thick
and very light It cuts as easy as wood and can be screwed together to make boxes.

Also I would use Powerpoles to standardize your power connections

Plexiglas would be my second choice over HDPE. And don't ground the antenna connectors to the frame, that's a good way to get RF burns.

I bought two delrin cutting boards from walmart, 11x14.

Perfect thickness and almost the perfect size.

Again the cardboard is just the mockup.

I'll bet you once you put it on and carry it a little you will be moving the battery from where it is to the outside/rearward platform. That space is designed to wrap around the hips with the belt sinking inward to almost the frame. And once you do that you will need to add some kind of feet to make it stand upright. I would use two pieces or cutting board placed along the left and right outside under the bottom shelf running to the rear. Kind of mirroring the flat brackets with the large holes, but to the back of the frame.

I'm now thinking a box that I can then simply strap to the ALICE frame.  I have a 40(?)mm ammo can that might work.

I'd like to have straight sides.


Though my mockup looks pretty cool, just like a manpack radio.  I had originally conceived of simply adding a rain cover over the assembly but a box simply offers more protection.

Oh well, off to the US Plastics website


On a sidenote, Ghostbusters has been on a few times recently.  Their proton packs are built on ALICE frames

OST.

please share what u find!

Unfortunately nothing lol

So what I did do is order two 25mm polymer ammo cans

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291002406779

I like where you're heading!

... in on one

Nice ammo cans. Ordered two myself.

 

I love those plastic cans. I've given some serious thought to using one as a portable computer case/lan box.

Here is what I did with my ft897. With a 703 I imagine you could easily do something similar and have a much smaller package.

nice

how are you handling the radial/counterpoise?

If you look in my thread on it there is a little push button connector for quick attachment for a radial(s) next to antenna plug. Actually with as much metal is in the radio it works pretty decently without one down to about 20m (same for most milpacks as I have discovered). In that pic I'm getting a 5/9 into CA (maritime net) on about 25w without a counterpoise so a bit over 1000mi. It also fits really nicely into most backpacks, I do have a cloth cover for it that I usually use.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/671920_FT897_Manpack_Emcomm_project__updated_.html

I debated doing the same sort of frame for my IC 706, but the power draw on RX is pretty high, so battery life would be concern, that and the fan runs all the time on my 706 so that makes it non-ideal in the field. Since the 703 is basically the same size as the 706 and includes an internal tuner, all you'd have to do is build a frame for the bottom to include a battery pack and add a antenna mount (I'd consider something like an 11 C cell nimh pack). The only thing I would really worry about with that is stability with big whips since its fairly small and light weight.

minor update

Going to go look at a 703 tonight, getting kind of excited now.

Whats the update? What are you planning to do with the ammo cans? Just mount it all in one?

Yeah, that's the goal. Battery, rig, coax, antenna, etc in the ammo can and then the can on the Alice frame or can by itself of course, it has handles.

What is the weight on all that?

The can is 10.5, call it 11

The 18ah is also 11. But the equivalent lifepo4 is 2.1.  That's a future purchase.

The rig is whatever, 4

26 right there (15ish in the future)

Another 7 in incidentals? (Antenna, charge controller, folding solar panel)

Say 35 for now.

I don't think I can fit the buddistick but the EARCH end fed fits easy.

Though it appears that my master plan to put in the 18ah won't work lol. The 7.2 fits nice so perhaps a 12ah would fit.  

Yep, 12ah fits and leaves room.

Damnit I wonder how many peemags will fit in one of those.

A 1/4" die grinder and a carbide bur will make quick work of the internal shelf supports in the ammo can giving you maximum space.
I use one of the 25mm cans for my NVIS lines, guys, and stakes.

I'm looking at this thing and see that doing pretty much any of that will cut into the negative space, thereby negating the water resistant nature of the can.

??

Darn I was planning on squeezing more space out of my boxes.  I had even picked up a carbide bur for getting to this eventually.   Looks like just the top and bottom covers could at least be smoothed out on the inside, right?  

Yeah, the lids can be hollowed/smoothed out on the inside.

Bought the 703 last night. The guy had all the original boxes and packaging, even the warranty card. The guy is having some family problems and was getting out of ham, it was too good of a deal to pass up. Radio looks new. Then as I was leaving, he gave me 3 ham sticks 10m, 20m, 40m and a diamond trunk mount.

I guess I'll be ordering an ammo box too. Learning curve is steep going from vhf to hf! So I'll be in business once I figure it out.

Sweet jesus that's a heavy enclosure/setup.

The 897 setup (up to 75w out) is like 13lbs total without the antenna, add maybe 1lb for that.
Most of my very durable mil-packs (20-30W out) are in the 15-20lbs range max.

It's really from point A to point B

Not from A to R, much less all the way to Z

Edit 5

nice!  is the faceplate removable? what sort of connections are avail on the rear of the unit that you may need to access?

the reason I asked....good ideas here!

Keep it up!

Edit 6

What about a Taut Line Hitch?  You can have one anywhere you have rope; with no gadgets to keep up with.



 

version 0.8

added to EMCOMM Box thread, sorry I got behind

version 0.9