If I recall you really are better off just getting the cable and Chirp. The main reason being you can not get the radio to display names of programmed stations.

Could be wrong though.

Just a reminder on how technology can conspire against you.

Ran into a situation where some non-radio people just grabbed something cheap off Amazon(I was called out to help out with radio comms along with a couple other hams, I spent my time at base camp, another was situated as a relay for people in the field as we knew it was too far to make it - we were using ham radio, but these chinese radios were for the non-licensed people in the group to talk to each other and to the hams). Turned out to be rebranded Baofeng 888's, under the Arcshell name(AR-5 and AR-6 models). Naturally these come programmed with random frequencies from the chinese factory, and do not come with a programming cable or software. Fortunately two of the frequencies happen to coincide with FRS/GMRS channels, and I instructed the group to use those.

In the meantime I received some support from a ham living in the area(I was 2.5 hours from home) who brought a Baofeng programming cable. Worth noting here that he had a Mac running a newish version of Chirp, and I had a Windows 10 PC and was running the latest version of chirp(and a lot of fighting with the cable which used an ancient version of the PL2303 that is not supported by the current driver, and I had to spend time finding an older driver that would work). Another note is that the newer versions of Chirp include an Arcshell AR-5 and AR-6 option. We were able to download data from the AR-6 radios using Chirp, but could not write data back, and could no do anything with the AR-5. Another note on the AR-5 to be coming up later in the story, and keep in mind they had a dozen radios with a mix of these two models.

After failing to get anything done, and not having a lot of radio traffic to deal with during this event, I spent some time investigating the issue and realized there were a lot of bug reports for Chirp involving being unable to program the 888. This led me to download older versions of Chirp(0.4.1 along with a daily build from January 2020), as well as the Baofeng BF-480 software. After a discussion about the issues, my local friend brought out an older computer and we sat down to experiment. On my computer with the other software program, it would still not work. Important note here - we were focusing on the AR-5(which we had 4 of) because it was the most stubborn, and doing some occasional attempts with the AR-6 because it was downloading with the other computer initially. After failing on my computer, he starts attempts with the AR-6's using a version of Chirp from 2018. It downloads, which was expected as we could do that before. Then he tries to write to the radio, and suddenly we have success! We try the AR-5 again and nothing. We quickly program all the AR-6's thinking at least we can get some of them working on legal frequencies. Then I hand him another AR-5, and THAT one works. Well, I still have the original AR-5 we were battling with sitting next to my computer and had handed him a different one. We program three of the AR-5's successfully, but the programming reverts them back to speaking Chinese, and the software cannot toggle language or turn off the voice announcement on them for some reason. I manage to find a guide online that details the procedure using channel selection and holding down the PTT and Monitor buttons while powering on to toggle those functions and make it work properly. Back the the turd radio that caused so many problems - remember an issue with other Baofeng radios, he makes another attempt while putting considerable pressure on the programming cable connector, and manages to get it to read and program. So it turns out one of the main problems we encountered was also a hardware issue on one of the radios itself, perhaps the connector was damaged or out of alignment. At least we had proper radios now for the remaining two days of a three day event.

So make sure when you get something working properly, to archive the drivers and software package you are using, because a newer version may stop working! I also need to make sure I keep some programming cables in my kit for radios that I may not myself be carrying, as these chinese radios can be quite a headache when they haven't been programmed to the needed frequencies. And when dealing with multiple radios, don't declare complete failure until you have tried them all!

Bump!

The GF and I are taking our Tech exams tomorrow and I dug out the two BF UV-5RAs I bought back in late 2013. THANK GOODNESS FOR THIS THREAD!!!



A new career distracted me back then, but (considering the times), getting squared away now is a no-brainer.

*As an aside, I also have an FT-817, VX-9R and a 100w mobile Yaesu (can't remember the model), with several good antennas (& other goodies) and I'm pretty excited to finally get on-air.

Seriously: mega-thanks to the OP and all who start and contribute to threads like this one! I'm still pretty intimidated about programming and such, but with the info/knowledge shared here, I'm sure to be up & running soon.

Thanks again - and, please, wish me/us luck!

when my kids and bride passed their tech test they got a GT3....because the eldest (who passed first) picked it out on Amazon ("looks cooler") and I'm a redundancy guy (it helps that it's the HT US hams send to Nepali hams through Radio Mala.
We've now moved to the TYT UV380 for Ham and Itinerant use (different beast).

bump

I just got 2 UV-5Rs and a Yaesu VX-6R.
Can the same USB cable work for both types?

Should I get the ADMS software/cable package or is there a better/cheaper option?  Chirp?
The search functions for arfcom are non existant so apologies there.
Thanks

No, the Yaesu has a different style of connector and different programming interface than the Baofeng.

Chirp should work for both if you get suitable cables for both.

If you happen to have a computer with a serial port, you can save yourself driver troubles by buying serial cables instead of USB cables.

Thank you for the info.
I do have a laptop with a serial port.
As a network engineer I deal with console cables and drivers all the time so I know the issues tusb causes.

I have usb to serial cables adapters as well.

Honestly there’s really no reason to not use USB if it’s what you have. Quality cables make all the difference.


I can’t recommend rtsystems software (and cables) enough. Maybe not for the baofeng, but for the VX6r it’s what I use exclusively.

I read the first few posts, but i wont read all of this thread, now. Maybe later. But for now, i have a some Amazon money that work gave me.

Can anyone suggest a Baofeng on Amazon?

Don't buy from Amazon.  Buy from R&L Electronics, Baofengtech.com, Radiodity, etc.

Fuck Amazon.  Don't use them unless absolutely necessary.  For a good data transfer cable, that may be necessary.  Otherwise, radioddity has what you need.

I have a card to spend at Amazon. One way or the other, i am not letting it go to waste.

OK, Which model?

I'd suggest UV-82hp.  I like mine.

That 8 watts isn't useful with a 1/4 wave whip, but it IS when hooked up to a bigger antenna talking to a distant station.

Standard 5 watt UV-82 works well too.  I like these a little better than the UV-5 series.

Howdy gents!  Ive listened to the 2m/70cm band all the time with my old scanner for a long time.  Decided to dip my feet in the water and Im studying to take my test here pretty soon.  Snagged 4 UV-5R's back in January.  Didnt realize there were fakes or clones running around.  Did some checking with Chirp over the weekend and appears all 4 of my radios are running the same (HN5RV01) non-official firmware.  Should I send these radios back to Amazon for a refund and buy them from a place like R&L?  I know these arent the best radios in the world but, I wanna see hot things go once I get my ticket.  If these clones, or whatever the case may be, are no good Id rather send them back.

I may be wrong , but from what I’ve read real 5rs haven’t been made in years. I don’t think you will find a real one. It came from China, use them or buy better. Jmo.

@Jupiter7200, (or anyone else),

Where did you get the list of Simplex frequencies?  I've looked at my version of CHIRP (downloaded today) and I'm not finding a list in any of the dropdowns.

Thanks!

I'm guessing he manually made the entries in Chirp, based on the standard band-plan for simplex frequencies, as he explained in that post.

If you have an amateur license you should be familiar with the bandplan.

If you don't have an amateur license, MURS/GMRS/FRS frequencies are what you need, those are in the chirp menu.

There's simply no excuse to be snotty.  

My question had nothing to do with the band plan.  It had everything to do about entering - or better yet - not entering all the simplex channels by hand.  You know, sorta like C&Ping the repeater data via CHIRP software instead of hand entering it - one of the biggest reasons to use CHIRP to begin with.

ARRL Band Plan
Simplex channel confusion article

This lists simplex freqs but I think it can be regional on what steps are used. You will probably need to find your state band plan to confirm spacing of simplex channels due to it differing around the country. That is likely why you won't find much to copy and paste over besides calling frequencies.

This map is included in the article above.

Here's the band plan for 144 simplex frequencies from SERA (SE Repeater Association) (taken from one of your links above):

"FM Voice Simplex Frequencies
146.400*
146.415*
146.430*
146.445*
146.460*
146.475*
146.490*
146.505*
146.520
146.535
146.550
146.565
146.580
146.595
147.405*
147.420*
147.435*
147.450*
147.465*
147.480*
147.495*
147.510
147.525
147.540
147.555
147.570
147.585
146.520 is the National FM Voice Simplex Calling Frequency
IMPORTANT NOTE: = Frequencies marked with * are permitted for simplex use as long as it does not cause interference to nearby repeater inputs. Please be aware that SERA coordinates some of these frequencies as repeater inputs in some areas. Check the Repeater Journal
directory in your area to see if any such repeaters are present."

Right now, I hand inputted the 144 and 444 national FM simplex frequency, not sure I need any others.  146.52 and 446.00.


BTW, I've had my UV-B5 on the 2m simplex 146.52 since around 8 am this morning.  Zero traffic.  

I've literally had 146.52 on scan while crossing the country (Texas to CA, Texas to NC) in the truck.  Heard maybe 3 contacts.


On the other hand, I did randomly pick it up and call once on I-10 west of San Antonio, and immediately had someone come back.  We chatted until i exited.


Sooo... it's worth keeping in the rotation.  Just don't expect it to be popular.

Another question:  I have about 8 channels now in my UV-B5, 6 local repeaters and 2 simplex.

Every frequency display looks like this (146.52 national simplex frequency used):

"146.520
438.500"

What does the "438.500" mean?

This is overly simplistic but your radio is actually "two" radios in one.

You have one of them set to 146.52.  the other set to 438.5  You're listening to both frequencies.  The PTT key will transmit on whichever one (A for top or B for bottom) you have selected at the moment.

This is what so frustrated me 8 years ago when I bought this radio:  The User's Manual is almost completely useless.

Case in point:  There is not one single picture in the manual showing a typical display with a definition of what everything means.

For example, there is an arrow symbol to the left of the 146.520/438.500:  it points directly to the space between the two numbers.  Which frequency band is it listening to?  Also, what do all the LCD display symbols mean?  The one above, the three to the right - the battery symbol I got.

I have Lennart Lidberg's Baofeng UV-5R User's Manual.  It does show a "standard" LCD display, good for him.  However, none of the -B5 symbols are used in the -5R.  

Fortunately, I found this for UV-B5:   https://www.miklor.com/UVB5/UVB5-Display.php


So items #5, 10, 13, 14 and 15 are now known.  Namely, keypad beep is on, frequency A is active (the one I want), offset is positive (for repeaters only), High power is selected (I had to use a magnifying glass to see it in the display), and finally it's set to Wideband.

Here's a pic of my LCD display; note that I currently have it set to the 147.240 repeater, the infamous Harlie repeater out of Huntsville AL.



Now that I know what each symbol means, now I need to go about finding out how to change them to what I want.


ETA:  Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it!

The UV-5R does not have dual simultaneous receive. The 438.500 frequency is just what's on the other "VFO"... it's like having FM1 and FM2 on your car radio, where you can switch back and forth between the two. There are radios that have dual simultaneous receive, but the Baofengs are not them.


Every Baofeng thread seems to eventually turn into freebanding, so sorry if that sounded snotty.

Bandplans as already mentioned vary by state, as far as simplex frequencies it's dependent on how that state does repeater coordination and what channel steps they use. Most states are the same, but a few places are different, so you have to know where you are. The main thing is to not be trying to operate simplex on a repeater input.

Yes.... as i said, 'overly simplistic.'

And while the radio may not be true simultaneous receive, you aren't switching back and forth.  If a signal shows up on side A, you'll hear it.  If a signal shows up on side B, you'll hear it.

So for "in practice how it gets used" you set the A side and B side the the frequencies you want to hear.  i.e., "dual receive" in the common use of words engendering the idea as best expressed from a practical "how people use a radio like this" standpoint.


That the way it truly works is to just switch back and forth very very fast between the two frequencies is beside the point and only discussions of a technical cant really care. Of which this isn't one.

If there's a way to get Baofengs to do that, that's ok, I haven't observed any of mine to behave in that fashion.

Yeah, Baofengs are dual listen, but cannot receive at the same time.  Whichever one hears something first, will become active.  So it's not fully duplex, but a cheap chinesium version of it.

The "dual watch" as some call it, since it's not true simultaneous dual receive as the others explained, it togglable on and off in the menu.  It's the "TDR" option and can turn that function on or off.

I have no idea what freebanding is, but whatever, no problem, I'm over it.

I posted the TN 2m simplex frequencies above.  I got them off the SERA website (SE Repeater Association).

"Freebanding" is operating a radio on amateur freqs without being licensed.

Separate question:  What is that symbol below my avatar to the right of the "20"?

So, you know what freebanding is and were just being snobby?

More tech questions:  Take a look at Jupiter's CHIRP repeater channels screenshot above.  Note that almost all of his entries include Tone Squelch.  I went through the same procedure on CHIRP and downloaded about 23 local to me repeaters.  Cycling through my UV-B5 with it's OEM antenna, I get no traffic whatsoever.  Of course, that could be because I'm in a repeater dead zone.

However:  The CHIRP frequencies I downloaded have zero Tone Squelch entries - not one.   According to this YT video, repeaters may send the tone and if the radio is not set correctly, it won't pass audio without it.  See around 3:55 in this video:




Hence:  Should I add the 88.5 Tone Squelch to all my repeater frequencies as shown in Jupiter's CHIRP chart above?

Thanks for the help!

Absolutely not. If you put tone squelch on a repeater and that repeater isn't transmitting that tone, it will be squelched, ie, no audio.

You can turn on tone squelch, IF that particular repeater is transmitting a tone (some do, many do not), but it has to be the correct tone.

You have to try it and see what works on each repeater. Some repeaters use a system where it only transmits a tone when it's receiving a tone, so the tone will turn off during courtesy time, IDs etc. That's to work better with echolink, cross band repeaters and such.

So basically trust CHIRP.

On the other hand, I have this repeater near me.  It's one of the few that shows both an uplink tone and a downlink tone; both are 97.4.   https://repeaterbook.com/repeaters/details.php?state_id=01&ID=18285#

When I look at the CHIRP data, it shows the 97.4 Tone but the Tone Squelch has no entry.  When I try to enter a Tone Squelch of 97.4, it takes it, but it then cancels/zeros out the Tone.  In other words, I can't have both Tones at the same time as shown in Jupiter's pic above.

I wish I could take a screenshot of the CHIRP repeater list, but when I try, I get both monitors shown at the same time.  

On your second point, when you have a tone in the Tone Squelch column on Chirp, it means that same tone is programed for both the Tx tone and the Rx tone, since there's almost no scenario where you'd be listening for a squelch tone but not sending one.

And as to your first point, why they're just setting your Tx tone for getting into the repeater but not the Rx tone, is because even if the repeater transmits out a tone, if your radio is set to not listen for a tone, you'll still hear the repeater.  Being set to carrier squelch (aka, no tone squelch), means you hear everything, even stuff sending out a tone.  So you don't need anything there.  Some people will set the tone squelch for a repeater that outputs a tone if they otherwise are hearing some other interference on that frequency (such as another repeater within range that uses the same frequency).  That way setting the tone squelch only opens your radio when it hears the repeater you want to hear, and should filter out the interference.

Thanks, that makes sense!

Just adding to the thread. I could get my UV-5R to receive on GMRS frequencies but not transmit after manually entering the the frequencies. After loading the frequencies with CHIRP software the radio was able to transmit on GMRS channels. I don’t know what the difference was unless it had to do with the software.

CHIRP unlocks it.  

However, newer serial number UV-5rs are unable to be unlocked.

If having one radio to transmit on amateur and GMRS freqs is desirable, the legal options is Part 90 land mobile service radios.



Less legal options are really no-name chinesium stuff that's flying under the radar or Big-3 amateur model radios for which the procedure to freeband them is available.

What are the Part 90 radios? I have a Yaesu FTM-400xdr and a FT-60 which were very easy to open up the GMRS channels.

Commercial land mobile stuff.


Kenwood LMR

The anytone 878 is one of the few amateur marketed radios that is certed for land mobile use.

Thanks.

So I’ve had this thing since 2013. Never really used it, as life got in the way. You know the story, career change, moved, move again, dad past away, all that living stuff. Anyway, this thing got put away & I’ve only recently re-discovered it. I only listen on it. Is it illegal to use if I were to get a standard ham license? I just don’t know much about it, any insight you guys could provide would be awesome thank you in advance.
Attached File

Yes, you need a Technician class license to use that

One needs a Technician (or higher) class amateur license to use it on the amateur service. If he wants to be involved with the amateur service, then he should get an amateur license.

If he puts in MURS, GMRS, LMR or whatever programming, then he needs whatever is appropriate to those services. Licenses are for the frequencies you use, not the equipment.

Is this radio certified for use on those services?