User Panel
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I'm currently waiting on a UV-B5 to arrive, and was wondering if its absolutely necessary to have the USB cable to program it? Probably not. But you want a copy of Chirp and a USB cable anyway. If so, is there a cheap cable that ships from the USA that I can use?
Can't help you there, but here's one from China. Call Robert at Main Trading Company. they stock the Wouxun cable which is what we used to prog my buddies 5B If you have a computer with actual serial ports, I have a suspicion that a serial programming cable might be less trouble than the hassles that folks are having with the USB cables and drivers. Or use Linux/OSX and don't worry about drivers to begin with…I actually have a lot of CSF programs for Icoms running under WINE on Linux (CSF100, CSF100S, CSF3020)…haven't gotten it to run CSF300 or CSF300s yet but due to the Linux thing, it sees it as a standard Serial Port even if it's USB (you just link /dev/ttyUSB0 or whatever the port may be in linux/OSX over to the .wine port for com1, should work with crossover as well). |
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CSF300 or CSF300s yet but due to the Linux thing Those are likely DOS programs, not Windows. I don't think there were windows versions of those. I've been meaning to try to run some older software on freedos in a VM and see if it will work. |
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CSF300 or CSF300s yet but due to the Linux thing Those are likely DOS programs, not Windows. I don't think there were windows versions of those. I've been meaning to try to run some older software on freedos in a VM and see if it will work. Runs just fine under Windows 7 just under command prompt. Runs just as well under freedos. |
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how the heck can you clear a stored channel other than over write it? 1-99 memory specifically.
(no cable/pc software) button interface only method..... |
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how the heck can you clear a stored channel other than over write it? 1-99 memory specifically. (no cable/pc software) button interface only method..... I'm afraid you'll probably have to reset and reprogram. |
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I got sucked into the vortex and ordered one of these off ebay.
It's supposedly an updated model that has multiple display colors and 2.5kHz channel steps. Will see what happens when it gets here. |
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I got sucked into the vortex and ordered one of these off ebay. It's supposedly an updated model that has multiple display colors. Will see what happens when it gets here. whirlwind ftw got 2 in the mail today, already tuned to local repeaters, so far there is some sort of meeting tonight and donuts are available. eta : http://www.nerepeaters.com/ |
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Quoted: I've had this POS for six months. The programming cable doesn't work. Cutting, shaving, pushing. It still dosn't work. Drivers shmivers. Still doesn't work. Sheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeettttttttttttttttttt............... Are you sure the computer is "seeing" the cable. My Win7 64 box recognizes the cable when plugged in the USB port. That was my biggest problem with getting the cable to work. It took me about an hour to get the computer to see the cable. It only worked after unplugging the cable and rebooting. After I restarted, I plugged in the cable and a pop up said the "Prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port (COM3)" was plugged in. Worked perfect after that. I THINK this was the driver I used. It been a while and Im not 100% sure. http://www.baofengradio.com/en/services.asp?BigClassName=USB%20Driver |
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Part of the problem is that these programming cables are USB to Serial/RS-232 adapters that actually run on a little EEPROM/logic chip made by Prolific Technology. The Chinese counterfeit this chip massively, and Prolific and Microsoft Update worked to get new drivers that won't recognize the ID of a counterfeit chip.
Try going here: http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/supportDownload.aspx?FileType=56&FileID=133&pcid=85&Page=0 If it prompts you to login, ID of "guest", Password of "guest" will get you in. On the next page, click the link for: "Click here for PL2303 USB to Serial Drivers" On the Click here for PL2303 USB to Serial Driver page, scroll about halfway down and you'll see the download link for: PL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v1.8.0.zip This as far as I can tell this might be an older version of the driver that does not check for the counterfeit chip. I feel bad for Prolific, but as I see it, they're getting ripped off for something like $.05 on the teeny chip the size of a match head that they've been selling for years, and I got ripped off for $9 on Amazon for my cable. Once I got this driver installed, CHIRP got right into my Baofeng B5 and downloaded it's channel template, and I was able to load right back up with a list of repeaters from Repeaterbook. Also remember, if you're trying to use CHIRP, the B5 is only supported in the daily build, most bleeding edge releases on the CHIRP page. If you download or use a "stable release" the radio won't be listed. |
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Received programming cable from amazon, plugged in and it identified and installed the Prolific drivers. Transmitted signal for half a second, so I played around with the cable. Opened chirp and downloaded from radio just fine. Radio started transmitting again, but this time I had to turn it off.
Roll back drivers or mess with usb cord? Edit: Looks like I'll need to find a quality programming cable. It will continue transmitting even after I've disconnected the USB end from the PC. Atleast I was smart and had the channel set to an FRS freq. |
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Received programming cable from amazon, plugged in and it identified and installed the Prolific drivers. Transmitted signal for half a second, so I played around with the cable. Opened chirp and downloaded from radio just fine. Radio started transmitting again, but this time I had to turn it off. Roll back drivers or mess with usb cord? Edit: Looks like I'll need to find a quality programming cable. It will continue transmitting even after I've disconnected the USB end from the PC. Atleast I was smart and had the channel set to an FRS freq. Most likely getting some RF on the programming cable that's keeping the PTT open. Try adding a ferrite bead. |
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Received programming cable from amazon, plugged in and it identified and installed the Prolific drivers. Transmitted signal for half a second, so I played around with the cable. Opened chirp and downloaded from radio just fine. Radio started transmitting again, but this time I had to turn it off. Roll back drivers or mess with usb cord? Edit: Looks like I'll need to find a quality programming cable. It will continue transmitting even after I've disconnected the USB end from the PC. Atleast I was smart and had the channel set to an FRS freq. Most likely getting some RF on the programming cable that's keeping the PTT open. Try adding a ferrite bead. May just be the plug not being fully inserted, if its out of position and shorts the mic contacts you'll get transmit. |
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I tried the All in One GPS driver, that seems to have fixed the problem. I did have to dremel the plug a bit to get a flush fit but that wasn't the issue.
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There's been a lot of anecdotal reports that the shape and design of the Baofeng's hand-mike/programming jack, or the dust-cover door blocks full insertion of some programming cables, causing shorts, or incomplete connections or connections that fail midway.
Some have trimmed down the plug, some just hold it down firmly with a thumb the entire time it's connected and that solved the issue for them. Quoted:
I tried the All in One GPS driver, that seems to have fixed the problem. I did have to dremel the plug a bit to get a flush fit but that wasn't the issue. Edit: posting at the same time. Cool! There's a lot of workarounds for these counterfeit Prolific USB/Serial chips it seems. The trick simply seems to be finding a driver that does not look for a manufacturer's Revision/ID code. Besides the older Prolific driver, third party vendors that use the same chip in their cables for other applications, but wrote their own drivers instead of using Prolific's seems to be fixing it for folks, which is what probably happened in your case. The upside to a third-party driver is it's less likely to get auto-updated by Windows Update and pull the rug out from under you. |
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Yeah, I'm about to talk about my UV-5R, but I know a lot of folks are upgrading to the B5, so I thought I'd share anyway here.
Mine is rather new to me and I just got around to programming in odd splits so I can use it to cross band repeat via my Yaesu 8800. I've had this set up for a long time with my other more expensive HTs, but there's just something cool about being able to hit a 2m repeater 60 miles away while walking around with a $40 HT on low power. :) |
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ROTATE, don't fold the dust cover down and FIRMLY seat the plug.
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ROTATE, don't fold the dust cover down and FIRMLY seat the plug. In my situation, I had to remove a strip of nearly 1mm thick material from the end of the plug, I did that before even plugging it in. It just barely clears the backside of the plug wall. Once I removed that extra material it was obvious that I had a firm connection. I didn't think the drivers would cause it to TX whenever the plug was in, but the 3rd set of driver I tried have worked perfectly so far. Even with the first two I was able to download and upload data, but the whole time it was transmitting. |
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Hi there,
I am also considering one to replace my older Alinco S45, but let me toss out some questions for owners: Does anyone measured the idle power consumption? Is there any way how to trim down the factory RF power setting, to 1W for HI and 0.2W for LO? 4W is way too much Quoted:
I got sucked into the vortex and ordered one of these off ebay. It's supposedly an updated model that has multiple display colors and 2.5kHz channel steps. Will see what happens when it gets here. Updated version of UV-B5? I didn't find anything like that on eBay, heck, there aren't even spare batteries. Could you please provide link to the listing? Thanks |
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I got sucked into the vortex and ordered one of these off ebay. It's supposedly an updated model that has multiple display colors and 2.5kHz channel steps. Will see what happens when it gets here. Updated version of UV-B5? I didn't find anything like that on eBay, heck, there aren't even spare batteries. Could you please provide link to the listing? I don't believe it is anything other than the same B5 that has always been available. No option to change display color and no 2.5kHz step. Quoted:
My FT-60R and the problem causing rubber gasket that was fucking with my external microphone staying plugged in completly. http://i459.photobucket.com/albums/qq314/Pacs100/aaaaaaaaaaaa_zps0e7b993a.jpg Try rotating the cover the other direction. |
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Does anyone measured the idle power consumption? Just measured mine - At 8.0 VDC supply voltage: Power off: 310 uA Squelched, Dual Watch Off, Battery Saver On: 5 mA/65 mA @ approx. 80/20% duty cycle Squelched, Dual Watch On: 55-65 mA Unsquelched, moderate volume: 90 mA Several sources for spare batteries here. BTW, welcome to the forums! |
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Does anyone measured the idle power consumption? Quoted:
Just measured mine - At 8.0 VDC supply voltage: Power off: 310 uA Squelched, Dual Watch Off, Battery Saver On: 5 mA/65 mA @ approx. 80/20% duty cycle Squelched, Dual Watch On: 55-65 mA Unsquelched, moderate volume: 90 mA Thanks for your quick reply Those are fairly impressive numbers. Without Dual-watch it might even reach 100 hours of standby. Now only if I could do the TX power mod, then it would be no-brainer for me. On S45 there are two trimmers inside which let you set the power for either setting (HI/LO) individually. I haven't been able to find photos of disassembled UV-B5, so I can't say whether the setting is similar. Based on the manual, TX power might be changeable (4W should be default for HI, then they mention "max 5W", so who knows ) Quoted:BTW, welcome to the forums!
My apologies for not introducing myself in the first place. Thank you for such a warm welcome. |
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how the heck can you clear a stored channel other than over write it? 1-99 memory specifically. (no cable/pc software) button interface only method..... I'm afraid you'll probably have to reset and reprogram. I'm wondering about the same issue, I do have the software though but can't find any way to simply erase a channel, all I can do is alter or add a channel. ETA: Figured it out... highlight the RX frequency then press backspace. My radio came from the factory with like 22 channels already programmed and the software is NOT user friendly at all compared to other radio programming software. I still can't find any way to lock it out from changing to VFO mode for a commercial type application, or to only display a single channel on the screen. |
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Also remember, if you're trying to use CHIRP, the B5 is only supported in the daily build, most bleeding edge releases on the CHIRP page. If you download or use a "stable release" the radio won't be listed. I get immediate errors with every file it tries to install. I even went back 3 builds to see if it was just the latest couple and no dice. Running Win X64 if that matters, and I tried running it in compatibility mode and even sandboxed it to see it that would help, no dice. Ever run into issues installing yours? |
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we had a heck of a time w chirp and my buddies 5B, finally got it with the baofeng software only, which allowed me to copy paste what i had entered ib chirp. that was with winxp, check pg2 for our story
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we had a heck of a time w chirp and my buddies 5B, finally got it with the baofeng software only, which allowed me to copy paste what i had entered ib chirp. that was with winxp, check pg2 for our story I got a copy of the Baofeng software for free from their Brazilian distributor, but it is all in Chinese and I haven't a clue how to change it... I can probably find directions on the web somewhere though, so I am hoping.. |
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HEADS UP: If you get one of these and decide to load the "daily build" of Chirp to program it, back up your saved *.img files in the application data folder first, because installing the new SW will erase them.
So now I have to tediously re-enter all my repeater info into Chirp. Also trying to import a CSV file doesn't work in Chirp. I tried to export a CSV of my FT-60 commander file and import it into Chirp, but Chirp would not read it (unsupported file format). Pain in the ASS!! I has it!! ETA: also, a number of the global settings are missing in Chirp and have to be manually set up. At least the manual for the B series is useful; the one for the UV5R hit the trash can 30 seconds after unboxing the device. |
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I got a copy of the Baofeng software for free from their Brazilian distributor, but it is all in Chinese and I haven't a clue how to change it To switch to English, press ALT S to get to the Settings Menu. then L, select English with your mouse and hit Enter. |
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Anyway I was able to recover my lost ch map by downloading from the UV-5R I'd already programmed, which had my latest on it. So no biggie after all and I finally have it set up right.
Another annoying riddle : why are the settings for STE (squelch tail eliminator) not in the SW, and every time I upload to radio, its back on? Trick is to turn it off on the radio manually, then read the file back and overwrite the prev file. You'll get the same load with STE off. Not my finding, I read it on the yahoo group. Oh yeah the shift (+/-) symbol is never correct on the A display. I cant see that little display anyway. ETA: don't know why I bought the B6 when the B5 has the rotary. That was a mistake. Inexpensive enough to give this one away to a friend and get the B5, though... |
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Damn good question for this particular radio STE setting specifically, which is the manual advises in Engrish to not have it on with repeaters. And that is all I blab on with it, mostly, so I followed instructions even though I am not sure about it. I do want to hear what it is exactly and when to use it. Please enlighten.
ETA: My point was mostly about that particular parameter's glaring absence in both Chirp and BF sw UIs, and in order to set that default, you had to upload file to radio, set STE on or off, and download again and save to set it in the load file. |
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Squelch tail elimination only works if you are encoding a squelch tone... when you unkey, it turns off the tone immediately but continues transmitting without the tone for a very short time (300 milliseconds is common). Receiving radios will detect the loss of tone and turn off the receive audio before the TX stops, so they don't hear a noise burst.
If you're accessing a repeater with a very fast turnaround you might miss hearing some of a courtesy tone or something like that, otherwise generally not a problem. I have squelch tail elimination enabled on all my LMR radios, have had for many years and never had an issue. Depending on how the repeater is set up, other users on a repeater might detect that it sounds different when you unkey, but it isn't offensive. Some radios have a distinctive type of unkey response anyway so nothing terribly unusual. If you happen to hear a radio with true FM modulation instead of phase modulation they will sound different when they unkey (IME anyway). |
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Ah, ok. Anyway, I can't tell a difference either way on the 2-3 VHF repeaters I mostly qso on. The only tail I hear is when the repeater drops. I'll turn it back on, since it sounds like there's no drawback to leaving it on.
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It makes no difference to what you hear, it's what other people hear.
Most repeaters have digital delay squelch tail elimination already so unless you know exactly what to listen for, most of the time on a repeater other people don't notice anything. If you're talking via simplex to someone else and using tone encode and decode with STE it will be very noticeable. |
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I got a copy of the Baofeng software for free from their Brazilian distributor, but it is all in Chinese and I haven't a clue how to change it To switch to English, press ALT S to get to the Settings Menu. then L, select English with your mouse and hit Enter. Nice, thanks! |
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Is it possible to remove a channel from the scan? I put in our local weather channel but it will obviously always be up and stop a scan. Did some googling but got nowhere.
Thank you. |
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I got my UVB5 on Saturday, and I think its broke right out of the box. I'll preface by saying that I'm not a Ham, I just started studying for the tech test and am totally inexperienced.
But, I've programmed in the NOAA weather frequency and 146.52 and listened some. The problem I have is sometimes when I hit the vw/scan button or use the frequency knob the radio shuts off then comes back on and says welcome. Then a few times it has done the same thing when its totally untouched just sitting still listening. Is this normal for cheap Chinese radios, or did I just get a bad one? |
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Is it possible to remove a channel from the scan? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes With the Baofeng programming software, there is a column labeled "Scan Add". If a memorized channel is set for "Off" in that column, that channel will be skipped while the radio is scanning memory channels. Quoted:
The problem I have is sometimes when I hit the vw/scan button or use the frequency knob the radio shuts off then comes back on and says welcome. Then a few times it has done the same thing when its totally untouched just sitting still listening. Is this normal for cheap Chinese radios, or did I just get a bad one? It's possible that you may have an intermittent connection to the battery. Try removing the battery, and cleaning the contacts (both on the battery and on the radio) with rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip. |
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With the Baofeng programming software, there is a column labeled "Scan Add". If a memorized channel is set for "Off" in that column, that channel will be skipped while the radio is scanning memory channels. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Is it possible to remove a channel from the scan? With the Baofeng programming software, there is a column labeled "Scan Add". If a memorized channel is set for "Off" in that column, that channel will be skipped while the radio is scanning memory channels. Ugh. I just got mine in last week, ordered a cable with it, but it keys up when I plug it in. Haven't spent the time to investigate if I'm doing something wrong so just programmed a few repeaters in it so far from the keypad. Thanks though, I'l have to check this out. |
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Ugh. I just got mine in last week, ordered a cable with it, but it keys up when I plug it in. View Quote Common problem with the connector not being inserted fully. In some cases, the connector needs to be trimmed a little bit to fit completely. (See THIS PAGE.) Also, be sure the radio is turned off before you plug or unplug the cable. |
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Well that's an irritating POS. I did finally get it to read but while I was making some changes, found that scan OFF as well, it started transmitting again while sitting untouched on my desk. I was at least able to get the read though so I saved the changes and IF I can get it to stop transmitting I can blow it back in.
I don't see what to trim though, everything looks to be free moving and on the inside the prongs have metal bases that seem to be what is bottoming out, so little unsure of where to even trim from. |
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Trim the plastic on the sides of the plug. If the plug doesn't seat fully into the radio it shorts two of the connectors together which causes the radio to TX. TX means the small plug is not inserted fully.
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