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Posted: 1/24/2017 4:12:21 PM EDT
[#1]
The temptation is huge to go with a 250 because of price but if you can swing it get a 241 or 261, they are prograde saws and about four times the saw the 250 is at nearly the same weight. The 250 will probably last you many years if you service it correctly but the 241 or 261 will last you the rest of your life with the use you describe...I would get the 261 you'd never need to upgrade from that but may feel the need from a 241.
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Posted: 1/24/2017 4:35:09 PM EDT
[#2]
I burn 8-10 cords a year, plus whatever else needs to be done on our 160 acres. I like a 14-16" bar and an 18-20" bar, 2 saws. I have a 14" bar on my MS251 and it really goes, I forget what my bigger saw is, MS291 I think, and that runs a 20" bar. The longer I cut wood, the more I like going with a smaller bar than what came with the saw, and overall just less weight.
I'll probably get a 3rd small saw soon as it is nice to just grab a fully fueled saw with a sharp chain, cut what I want to, and do all the maint. on 3 saws when I'm all done cutting for the day. Sucks about the Ash trees. |
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Posted: 1/24/2017 8:00:47 PM EDT
[#3]
If your not opposed to other brands, Amazon has an awesome deal on a Maruyama mcv51. If your not familiar with the brand it is a Dolmar 5105 rebadged to Maruyama. People who frequent Arboristsite confirmed that the saw is legitimately a Dolmar 5105. Cost is $329 free delivery with an Oregan 18" bar and a Oregan microchip .325 chain. 2 year home owner warranty and comes directly from Maruyama by way of Amazon.
The saw is new old stock from 2013 and the carburetor is fully adjustable with a carburetor wrench. I ordered one and waiting for it to come. |
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Posted: 1/24/2017 10:53:47 PM EDT
[#4]
I have had a couple MS250's for the crew to run. They are no better than a Husqvarna 350/450, and to a degree more of a PITA because of the stupid Spur drum instead of a proper rim, and an air filter that is complete shit, as well as expensive as hell. They are cheap homeowner saws, that will take an impressive beating.
The 251 is the updated Strato version that is heavier, and has less power. I'd much rather seek out an older 025 or 250, or just grab a husky 350/450 if I was looking for a budget 50cc saw. Neither has the nuts for a 20" in hard wood. 18" is pushing it, and they are best with a 16" which will work for what you are doing, but will be kinda slow on the larger stems. Stihl dealers will rape the wallet for parts. Husqvarna parts can be had online, or locally for much less and most parts will be commonly stocked. Have the guy demonstrate compression for you before buying. If it's less than 140+ pass. Most homeowners will never wear out a single set of rings, but they straight gas the things, and run them with air sucking fuel lines. The bastard EPA carb on the 250/251 doesn't help either. The 250 and 251 is a clamshell case, so they completely suck for a rebuild. Odds are that they guy is replacing/rebuilding carbs that have been ate to shit by ethanol, replacing fuel lines, and turning them around. The little Stihls get traded in when repairs cost almost as much as a new saw, and half the time it's just a carb rebuild/lines needed. For another 50 bucks, you could have a new factory refurbed Husky 450 or 455 60cc saw with warranty though. 
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Posted: 1/24/2017 11:45:48 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Anyone know stihl saws fairly well. I have about 10 to 15 dead ashes I need to take down on some property I just bought. They range from 12 to 24in dia. I also cut wood occasionally throughout the winter on other property. I always run the splitter since I dont have a saw tho but I want to contribute more. Im looking at getting two possibly. One I was looking at is a ms250 and 251. I think they're either 18 or 20in bar. This guy takes them in trade and fixes them up. He wants $275 for the 251 and 285 for the 250. New bars and chains along with whatever else thats need to get them running. You should be able to get the ms251 on sale for $300 new. I bought one last year at this price. Currently Big R (where I bought mine) shows it at $329. I wouldnt buy used to save $25+tax |
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Posted: 1/25/2017 1:26:22 AM EDT
[#6]
I have an MS440 which I would recommend for the bigger stuff.. a little heavy for limbing but will be nice for blocking all that up.
Edit** holy shit the prices have gone up!! |
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Posted: 1/25/2017 1:52:30 AM EDT
[#7]
For what it's worth I am happy with my MS250. I have cut up ~30 trees with it, half of those were when I did some lot clearing this past year. Lots of 50+ foot oak, cherries, locust, and maples. Its about 5 years old. No problems with it so far besides one issue I ran into which was lack of chain availability at the big box stores (All the stihl dealers around me are closed on the weekend).
It will chew through a 36" diameter oak in no time with a sharp yellow chain. |
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Posted: 1/25/2017 9:07:31 AM EDT
[#8]
I bought a Stihl 271 this past week for cleaning up fallen branches the occasional tree that falls over.
It is my first real chainsaw and it scares the crap out of me. I RESPECT my chainsaw and what it can do. |
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Posted: 1/25/2017 9:42:08 AM EDT
[#9]
I would recommend looking for a clean MS290; lots of them on eBay. Put on an 18" bar and chisel chain (forget the green safety chain the dealer wants you to buy) and you should be GTG.
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Posted: 1/25/2017 11:09:01 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If your not opposed to other brands, Amazon has an awesome deal on a Maruyama mcv51. If your not familiar with the brand it is a Dolmar 5105 rebadged to Maruyama. People who frequent Arboristsite confirmed that the saw is legitimately a Dolmar 5105. Cost is $329 free delivery with an Oregan 18" bar and a Oregan microchip .325 chain. 2 year home owner warranty and comes directly from Maruyama by way of Amazon. The saw is new old stock from 2013 and the carburetor is fully adjustable with a carburetor wrench. I ordered one and waiting for it to come. Just ordered one. From what I read doesnt sound like its a bad deal. Cant justify spending the money on used when I can get new for $50 more. Still looking for a second. If theres some left over after I get some quality cutting time and I'm pleased, I'll get another. |
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Posted: 1/25/2017 11:14:30 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I bought a Stihl 271 this past week for cleaning up fallen branches the occasional tree that falls over. It is my first real chainsaw and it scares the crap out of me. I RESPECT my chainsaw and what it can do. Obviously I'm no saw expert but the 271 seems overkill for that. And that leads me to a new thought. Maybe im best getting a smaller used one for rescue and debris. Thanks for all the replies fellas. |
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Posted: 1/25/2017 3:34:35 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Obviously I'm no saw expert but the 271 seems overkill for that. And that leads me to a new thought. Maybe im best getting a smaller used one for rescue and debris. Thanks for all the replies fellas. I've seen most mishaps happen when the operator is tired, and that fatigue is brought on faster swinging around heavy saws. |
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Posted: 1/30/2017 3:46:32 PM EDT
[#13]
I own three Stihls and a Husqvarna. The Stihls are a 391 (consumer grade) 361 pro, and an 028 Super AV (30+yr) old saw. I also have a Husky 55 Rancher that has what would be considered pro features today, it's a 1997 model.
I've been going through the older ones, 028 and the Husky. After 13+ years of cutting 10-12 cords per yr, they both have compression numbers that doesn't even require new rings. The Husky is 135psi and the Stihl is 140. The newer saws are mid 150's. One thing I'm learning, and actually came here to post in a new thread, is the prevalence of non-OEM parts in the Stihl market. Some people are even building entire saws out of kits and selling them as new. A kit is kinda like an AR build. A kit for a 660 clone can be had for under $200.00. The kits are Chinese parts. It would have me very leary of anything that seems to good to be true. A Stihl 660 should be in the 600-1k ball park depending on condition. A pro saw will be lighter and have more HP than a similar consumer grade. If you're a "buy once cry once" kind of guy, get a pro, it will last decades with proper care. My 028 has only needed a fuel line, carb kit and filter since I've owned it. |
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Posted: 2/11/2017 10:12:45 PM EDT
[#14]
I know Stihl saws pretty good, made a living with them for 13+yrs. The size saws you mention are 14"-16" size bar lengths MAX! They're small, and you'll need the saws power to cut, not turn too long a chain. A saw is like a tractor, buy BIGGER! The minute you buy just enough, you'll be swearing you should've bought bigger. Bare minimum saw is 039/390 size for homeowner. 044/460 would be even better. Buy them with 20" bars, don't look back!
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Posted: 2/12/2017 9:22:16 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I know Stihl saws pretty good, made a living with them for 13+yrs. The size saws you mention are 14"-16" size bar lengths MAX! They're small, and you'll need the saws power to cut, not turn too long a chain. A saw is like a tractor, buy BIGGER! The minute you buy just enough, you'll be swearing you should've bought bigger. Bare minimum saw is 039/390 size for homeowner. 044/460 would be even better. Buy them with 20" bars, don't look back! That's ridiculous! Unless you're out west in big timber country your average homeowner has no need for a 70cc+ saw. 60cc would be on the high side while a pro grade 50cc or 55cc saw will do 95% of what most people need a saw for. If you think you need a 75cc saw to cut up a few downed tree limbs you need to learn how to sharpen your chain. |
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Posted: 2/12/2017 10:11:13 AM EDT
[#16]
If you're going to get two saws, I would get one like an MS 170. i have three big saws, and for the original felling there is just no replacement for a big, powerful saw with a long bar. But they're heavy to carry around and use for smaller tasks. I got a 170 two years ago, and it's the saw I use most often. much of the cutting is limbing and bucking the top of the tree. You can use a 170 all day without fatigue. If you're getting just one saw, it has to be capable of handling the most difficult task you will have to complete. If you're getting more than one, you can get one that is geared to each task.
What concerns me about chainsaw use is cutting while fatigued. I try to "stiff arm" the hand nearest the brake, so that if it kicks back I stop the chain quickly. As you get more fatigued, it's harder to do that. With a loose grip, that bar could come back a considerable distance before the brake stops the chain. I wear a full face helmet and cut-resistant pants, jacket and gloves, but when you've had a kickback or spring pole with a big saw headed towards your face, it gets your attention. |
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Posted: 2/12/2017 7:14:56 PM EDT
[#17]
For the guys who ordered the Maruyama saw, have you got them yet and how do you like them?
Right now I have 7.5 acres of woods on my property. Mostly hardwoods and some pine. I don't burn wood but I do have a lot of fallen dead trees I want to clean up and some trees I'd like to fell once I get more comfortable with it. Last year I did some cleanup with an old Husky 36 that my fiance's dad left at our house because it did not run good. I got it running good for a day then last time I tried to use the thing it would not run again. I'm ready to invest in my own saw and I have looked online at something like the stihl 261. I know I don't NEED a professional quality saw but I would rather spend some extra and get a better saw than I likely really need because I prefer to buy quality items that will last a long time. Is the maruyama saw really comparable to say the 261? Specs wise it seems about the same. Quality wise is it comparable? Without taking cost into consideration.. Maruyama MCV51 or the Stilh 261 ? |
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Posted: 2/13/2017 1:53:48 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Without taking cost into consideration.. Maruyama MCV51 or the Stilh 261 ? Id get the Stihl if your not worrying about money. |
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Posted: 2/16/2017 5:26:45 PM EDT
[#19]
I bit the bullet and ordered the Maruyama MCV51 and received it within a few days. It came with the Oregon 18" bar and Oregon chain. I got to use it for a little clean up work last weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Added gas and started on 3rd pull out of the box. No comparison to my old Homelites. I'm really happy with it so far.
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Posted: 2/17/2017 12:09:20 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I bit the bullet and ordered the Maruyama MCV51 and received it within a few days. It came with the Oregon 18" bar and Oregon chain. I got to use it for a little clean up work last weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Added gas and started on 3rd pull out of the box. No comparison to my old Homelites. I'm really happy with it so far. Same here no issues with the MCV51. Took down 8 trees so far of various size with ease. The only thing I dont like is once it starts its full throttle spinning the chain until you grab the saftey and trigger. But I've learned to cope with it. Still though I'm happy with the purchase. Still looking to get a second and I have an opportunity to get a ms290 from a buddies parents for $200. Is that a good deal? No idea on condition. |
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Posted: 2/17/2017 7:24:23 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Same here no issues with the MCV51. Took down 8 trees so far of various size with ease. The only thing I dont like is once it starts its full throttle spinning the chain until you grab the saftey and trigger. But I've learned to cope with it. Still though I'm happy with the purchase. Still looking to get a second and I have an opportunity to get a ms290 from a buddies parents for $200. Is that a good deal? No idea on condition. I can't think of a modern saw that doesn't function that way on startup. |
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Posted: 2/18/2017 8:54:06 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I can't think of a modern saw that doesn't function that way on startup. Ive never used a chainsaw before so I'd have no idea. You're probably right. |
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Posted: 2/18/2017 12:39:15 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ive never used a chainsaw before so I'd have no idea. You're probably right. My stihl 261 doesn't. It's like a high idle and the chain goesnt really move. It might glitch every now and then but it definitely is racing. As for the ms290 is 13lbs 3.8 hp. If your MCV51 / Dolmar 5105 is really comparable to the Stihl 261. You will probably find the ms290 is heavier and has less power. |
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Posted: 2/18/2017 12:50:43 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My stihl 261 doesn't. It's like a high idle and the chain goesnt really move. It might glitch every now and then but it definitely is racing. As for the ms290 is 13lbs 3.8 hp. If your MCV51 / Dolmar 5105 is really comparable to the Stihl 261. You will probably find the ms290 is heavier and has less power. Interesting, my 361 start procedure is: Full choke / set High idle until it pops Flip choke off, leave high idle, start Once it's running, blip throttle to kick high idle off. Let warm up. 
What's the start up for a 261? I guess I don't always set the brake before starting, chain will always engage if I don't set the brake. |
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Posted: 2/19/2017 11:48:49 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Interesting, my 361 start procedure is: Full choke / set High idle until it pops Flip choke off, leave high idle, start Once it's running, blip throttle to kick high idle off. Let warm up. What's the start up for a 261? I guess I don't always set the brake before starting, chain will always engage if I don't set the brake. Mine is the M tronic version. You squeeze the throttle then put the switch down to the start position. When it fires you blip the throttle and it comes back up to the normal position. You press the switch up to kill it. I am sure it keeps the throttle cracked open a little but its not enough that is reving hard and making the chain spin at speed. It just kind of lurches or jerks ever now and then. I don't start it with the brake on either. I couldn't find a good video of a 261 being started where the guy didn't rev the snot out of it as soon as it fired. Here is a review of the smaller ms241. He fires it up and lets it sit for a couple seconds before blipping the throttle. That's how my 261 C-M starts up. https://youtu.be/q8mQUH7baOQ At 6 minutes where he starts it again. https://youtu.be/q8mQUH7baOQ?t=6m1s |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 3:14:20 PM EDT
[#26]
I'm torn on what to get as well. I've been looking at an MS 271 with an 18" bar. I considered getting an MS 291 with a 20", but I don't think I need that much saw. I've been leaning towards Stihl because the local dealer has a great reputation. Next Wednesday a local power tools store is having a 20% off sale on Echo saws. That's got me thinking, but I don't want to buy a saw to save money and not have it work out. I picked up a used Poulan last year and beat the bejesus out of it. Certainly got my money's worth, but it was painful.
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Posted: 3/12/2017 4:20:27 PM EDT
[#27]
Well, I ended up getting the Husqvarna 550XP a couple weeks ago.
Originally I wanted a Stihl... Then almost got that Maruyama (Dolmar) but ultimately ended up with the husky. I am by no means a "professional" chainsaw user but I do tend to buy quality tools over homeowner grade stuff. The 550XP just seemed to be the best in class and I wanted something I will be able to depend on for a long time. I haven't got a chance to try it out yet Ive been waiting for the snow to melt and for it to warm up enough I could go out and get some cleanup going. I am looking forward to seeing what its like to be able to use a chainsaw I am not fighting to keep running or cutting the entire time! 
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Posted: 3/12/2017 4:33:52 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm torn on what to get as well. I've been looking at an MS 271 with an 18" bar. I considered getting an MS 291 with a 20", but I don't think I need that much saw. I've been leaning towards Stihl because the local dealer has a great reputation. Next Wednesday a local power tools store is having a 20% off sale on Echo saws. That's got me thinking, but I don't want to buy a saw to save money and not have it work out. I picked up a used Poulan last year and beat the bejesus out of it. Certainly got my money's worth, but it was painful. Echo makes a good saw too. I say that even though I own Stihls and a Husky. 
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Posted: 3/12/2017 4:42:01 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Echo makes a good saw too. I say that even though I own Stihls and a Husky. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/146014/Screenshot-20170202-144820-138749.png Agreed. I run Husqs, Shihls and Echos and I'm partial to Echo. I buck between 5-10 chords/yr. and my Echo Timberwolf is my goto saw....If you mod the muffler then richen up the mixture, the Echo runs like a raped ape..... |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 5:00:34 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Agreed. I run Husqs, Shihls and Echos and I'm partial to Echo. I buck between 5-10 chords/yr. and my Echo Timberwolf is my goto saw....If you mod the muffler then richen up the mixture, the Echo runs like a raped ape..... What's this mod I keep hearing about? I'm looking at the Echo CS 590 if I get good feedback on it. I've done quite a bit of cutting in my life, but I don't know that much about brands, oddly. I've always just used what we had. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 5:19:43 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's this mod I keep hearing about? I'm looking at the Echo CS 590 if I get good feedback on it. I've done quite a bit of cutting in my life, but I don't know that much about brands, oddly. I've always just used what we had. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Agreed. I run Husqs, Shihls and Echos and I'm partial to Echo. I buck between 5-10 chords/yr. and my Echo Timberwolf is my goto saw....If you mod the muffler then richen up the mixture, the Echo runs like a raped ape..... What's this mod I keep hearing about? I'm looking at the Echo CS 590 if I get good feedback on it. I've done quite a bit of cutting in my life, but I don't know that much about brands, oddly. I've always just used what we had. |
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Posted: 3/14/2017 10:33:11 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I love my 590....Google " Note that M-tronic (for Stihl) and other electronically-controlled saws (don't recall what Husky calls theirs) don't have nor need adjustment screws; typical carb adjusted saws will need the adjustment less you detune your saw and perhaps burn it up running it too lean. |
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Posted: 3/20/2017 8:54:53 PM EDT
[#33]
I have been using an MS290 since 2007, same saw, all I do is add fuel and bar oil, and sharpen chains.
I almost have my first bar worn completely out. I heat my house ENTIRELY with wood. I can't even tell you how many cords or whatever I burn in the winter because I haul whole trees to the house on my gooseneck trailer, unload them by the furnance with the bobcat, and cut them into pieces just small enough that I can lift through the door of the furnace. Saw has been bulletproof. |
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Posted: 3/21/2017 1:11:59 PM EDT
[#34]
I traded off my old 029 last night on a used 440. I'm looking forward to putting it to work.
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Posted: 3/21/2017 3:04:03 PM EDT
[#35]
Love my 066 Magnum
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Posted: 3/23/2017 2:44:41 PM EDT
[#36]
good clean USED Stihl PRO saw is > NEW Stihl CONSUMER saw. Probably the same or less money too! I love my MS361 that I got for $300. Was in exc condition and always starts when I am ready to cut.
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Posted: 3/23/2017 3:34:19 PM EDT
[#37]
+1 on the rape. Stihl saws are expensive as hell if you use original replacement parts
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Posted: 3/25/2017 2:59:20 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If your not opposed to other brands, Amazon has an awesome deal on a Maruyama mcv51. If your not familiar with the brand it is a Dolmar 5105 rebadged to Maruyama. People who frequent Arboristsite confirmed that the saw is legitimately a Dolmar 5105. Cost is $329 free delivery with an Oregan 18" bar and a Oregan microchip .325 chain. 2 year home owner warranty and comes directly from Maruyama by way of Amazon. The saw is new old stock from 2013 and the carburetor is fully adjustable with a carburetor wrench. I ordered one and waiting for it to come. |
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Posted: 4/3/2017 9:26:30 PM EDT
[#39]
If you get a stihl, get a pro model. You can do things like this:
 Attached FileThe faulty saw that wouldn't run. You could close the little port on top (that makes starting it easier for people who are not strong) and it would run to the end of the pull-cord. No compression. Solution: replace top-end.  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/3/2017 9:28:48 PM EDT
[#40]
 Attached File(Above) The old piston. If you look at the bottom right, you can see where the ring retaining pin didn't keep the piston ring in place. The ring eventually fused with the piston, and a huge gouge was produced by the retaining pin. Look close, you can see the gouge. This saw had zero compression with this piston.  Attached FileEvidence of blow-by.  Attached FileSaw back together, head and piston I replaced off by the bar. New head on the saw, obviously. About 5 pulls with choke closed, it sputtered. Another pull it fired and ran. I shut it down pretty quick due to needing to let gasket sealant set (24 hrs). I'll let it run for a few hours tomorrow after work to break it in. For $100 in parts, I took a junk saw that a friend gave me (because saw shop quoted $400 to get running), and turned it into a nice beater truck saw. I splurged on the Sugi bar though, but they are supposed to be worth the ($40 extra over a Stihl ES bar) cost. For less than the head replacement was quoted by saw shop, I'll have a running saw with a premium bar and Stihl chain. A new saw of this size class is $800ish from the stihl dealer. The newer ones will have more power, but this one will do the job better than a new home-owner class saw will. When I fry the top again, I'll just repeat the process. If you had a saw with bar and chain, replacing the top end is about a 2 hour job. This one is a MS360pro. Pardon the white-ish tint to the plastics, I'd been painting in my garage and it got a little dusted. |
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Posted: 4/3/2017 9:47:25 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/82660/0403171626b-180359.JPG (Above) The old piston. If you look at the bottom right, you can see where the ring retaining pin didn't keep the piston ring in place. The ring eventually fused with the piston, and a huge gouge was produced by the retaining pin. Look close, you can see the gouge. This saw had zero compression with this piston. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/82660/0403171626c-2-180360.JPG Evidence of blow-by. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/82660/BackTogether-copy-180365.JPG Saw back together, head and piston I replaced off by the bar. New head on the saw, obviously. About 5 pulls with choke closed, it sputtered. Another pull it fired and ran. I shut it down pretty quick due to needing to let gasket sealant set (24 hrs). I'll let it run for a few hours tomorrow after work to break it in. For $100 in parts, I took a junk saw that a friend gave me (because saw shop quoted $400 to get running), and turned it into a nice beater truck saw. I splurged on the Sugi bar though, but they are supposed to be worth the ($40 extra over a Stihl ES bar) cost. For less than the head replacement was quoted by saw shop, I'll have a running saw with a premium bar and Stihl chain. A new saw of this size class is $800ish from the stihl dealer. The newer ones will have more power, but this one will do the job better than a new home-owner class saw will. When I fry the top again, I'll just repeat the process. If you had a saw with bar and chain, replacing the top end is about a 2 hour job. This one is a MS360pro. Pardon the white-ish tint to the plastics, I'd been painting in my garage and it got a little dusted. |
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Posted: 4/3/2017 9:51:56 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
+1 on the rape. Stihl saws are expensive as hell if you use original replacement parts if you want decent aftermarket stuff, go to weedeaterman.com and buy nikasil plated parts.....you can do well. See my post above. I used a Hyway brand top end and piston from him and fired the thing up (catastrophic piston ring retaining pin failure of Stihl branded piston) to smooth idle in 6 pulls. I'll report back tomorrow after I break it in (gasket conditioner needs to set for 24hrs).......but I expect this thing to work just like a Stihl top end would. So what if I burn it up in 3/4 of the time.....it was still 1/2 the cost (at least) for just the head, and I got the piston, a fuel filter (that I didn't use), piston rings (I used), head and exhaust gaskets (I used). It's not like Stihl is magic. They are just parts. How many of you use aftermarket parts on your vehicles that you repair? Aftermarket brake pads? Come on, it's a small 2 stroke motor that is already in production. |
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Posted: 4/3/2017 9:55:57 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My older 026 is a non pro saw but I can still replace the top end just like you have pictured. I wish I had something larger I have 2 50cc saws and one more in parts that I need to ditch. The ms360 is essentially the same saw as the ms360 pro save things that don't relate to the top end, which is the next saw in the lineage after the 036. |
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Posted: 4/3/2017 10:03:41 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The 026 is still a "pro" saw. When I saw pro saw, I mean Stihl saws that are in the non-clamshell class/homeowner grades. The ms360 is essentially the same saw as the ms360 pro, which is the next saw in the line from the 036. |
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Posted: 4/3/2017 10:18:43 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
From what I understand, the only difference on the 026 and Pro version is decompression, adjustable oiler and sticker/plate that says "Pro" I edited my post above, but I'll repeat myself here. Stihl has essentially 2 classes of saws. Saws designed to a price point for the homeowner who wants a Stihl but doesn't want to pay top dollar for a working/money making saw. Then they have their saws designed for professionals. These aren't always called "pro" or labeled as such, but they still fall into the class of saws Stihl markets to people who use them professionally where cost of purchase is less of a concern as compared to it being in service. The professional classes (036, ms360, ms360 pro, 026, yada) are all pro grade saws. Even if they aren't "pro" labeled (or outfitted with decomp, adj oiler, sticker). The farm boss would be a good example of a homeowner grade saw...... I have a 026 at work and it's a good saw, but the saw shop (my employer's saw shop, not the one I took my personal saw to) put way too long of a bar on it (28 inches). For reference, the bar on my ms360 is 24" and I consider that the max bar I'd use on that saw. Whatever, they pay me by the hour so if they want me to spend more time sawing....meh. But with my personal saws on my personal time......I want them to zip. |
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Posted: 4/4/2017 7:22:47 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/82660/0403171626b-180359.JPG (Above) The old piston. If you look at the bottom right, you can see where the ring retaining pin didn't keep the piston ring in place. The ring eventually fused with the piston, and a huge gouge was produced by the retaining pin. Look close, you can see the gouge. This saw had zero compression with this piston. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/82660/0403171626c-2-180360.JPG Evidence of blow-by. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/82660/BackTogether-copy-180365.JPG Saw back together, head and piston I replaced off by the bar. New head on the saw, obviously. About 5 pulls with choke closed, it sputtered. Another pull it fired and ran. I shut it down pretty quick due to needing to let gasket sealant set (24 hrs). I'll let it run for a few hours tomorrow after work to break it in. For $100 in parts, I took a junk saw that a friend gave me (because saw shop quoted $400 to get running), and turned it into a nice beater truck saw. I splurged on the Sugi bar though, but they are supposed to be worth the ($40 extra over a Stihl ES bar) cost. For less than the head replacement was quoted by saw shop, I'll have a running saw with a premium bar and Stihl chain. A new saw of this size class is $800ish from the stihl dealer. The newer ones will have more power, but this one will do the job better than a new home-owner class saw will. When I fry the top again, I'll just repeat the process. If you had a saw with bar and chain, replacing the top end is about a 2 hour job. This one is a MS360pro. Pardon the white-ish tint to the plastics, I'd been painting in my garage and it got a little dusted. .
I have an 046 in parts I need to get around to building and an 021 that needs to come apart for an air leak somewhere. I hate working on clamshell saws 
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Posted: 4/4/2017 9:30:18 AM EDT
[#47]
I'm currently putting new rings in my husky 51. If that doesn't satisfy me a meteor piston and cylinder kit is in the future for it. Some stihl pro saws use a short block instead of a jug. But they are still rebuildable. Bailey's is another good source of parts. Along with Amazon. My buddy bought a 251 stihl and I don't like it. He's got an Echo the same size and it runs good. Actually I think it edges the stihl out on torque. I have an old ms 170 that I have a love hate relationship with. It's light and handy but it's contrary to start compared to my bigger husky's. Stihl's smaller saws are being killed by the emissions control bullshit. I wouldn't buy another stihl under 50cc. But I would recommend Husqvarna in a heartbeat and I have a neighbor that cuts logs and pulp wood for a living and he's went to Echo saws. He likes the dealer here better than the stihl dealer's. The main word of advice is get bigger than what you think you need! You can always pick up a cheap small saw later. But if a big tree comes down a 50cc or larger saw will wear you out a lot less.
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Posted: 4/4/2017 11:00:02 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have a 026 at work and it's a good saw, but the saw shop (my employer's saw shop, not the one I took my personal saw to) put way too long of a bar on it (28 inches). |
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Posted: 4/4/2017 11:26:23 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would recommend looking for a clean MS290; lots of them on eBay. Put on an 18" bar and chisel chain (forget the green safety chain the dealer wants you to buy) and you should be GTG. I fell a couple trees trees this past weekend with this exact setup. It's decent on power and ability. Learn to to sharpen your chain and touch it up every time you fill the tank. |
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Posted: 4/4/2017 12:51:43 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm currently putting new rings in my husky 51. If that doesn't satisfy me a meteor piston and cylinder kit is in the future for it. Some stihl pro saws use a short block instead of a jug. But they are still rebuildable. Bailey's is another good source of parts. Along with Amazon. My buddy bought a 251 stihl and I don't like it. He's got an Echo the same size and it runs good. Actually I think it edges the stihl out on torque. I have an old ms 170 that I have a love hate relationship with. It's light and handy but it's contrary to start compared to my bigger husky's. Stihl's smaller saws are being killed by the emissions control bullshit. I wouldn't buy another stihl under 50cc. But I would recommend Husqvarna in a heartbeat and I have a neighbor that cuts logs and pulp wood for a living and he's went to Echo saws. He likes the dealer here better than the stihl dealer's. The main word of advice is get bigger than what you think you need! You can always pick up a cheap small saw later. But if a big tree comes down a 50cc or larger saw will wear you out a lot less. This is where I heard of the swap. Opening comments  Husqvarna 51 Dead Saw Salvage, Amazing how far things can go before they stop! |
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