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Posted: 9/23/2016 4:44:21 PM EDT
[#1]
Rear tires are a biggie on antique tractor value.
If they are decent and the sheetmetal is straight, it runs and drives good with no smoke I would say $1500 +/- $500 Cultivator is a neat showpiece especially with the rear rig (if that is what it is anyway) They make regular bellymower kits for them, check out Woods or Artsway. Three point is kind of a non-issue, you can't do much with that size of a horse anyway. It won't have live PTO/hydraulics (non issue to me, never had it it growing up... ignorance is bliss) or power steering (not needed) You might see if it is 6 or 12V, if it charges, if the lights work ect... they will run quite awhile not charging since the dizzy pulls so little juice but it is a nice thing to not have to worry about. If it is 12V note how decent of a job they did converting it. Some can look nice and some are complete hacks. Personally I like the generator with a 12V regulator, they look more "right" to me. I know the H's and M's have theirs tucked up under the hood so you can't see what they have anyway, I don't remember if A's are like that or not. I have a Allis C which is a tad bigger, it is a handy little tug for parking things out of the way or pulling the single disk in the garden. It is a hoot to cultivate with too. |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 6:42:15 PM EDT
[#2]
I will get some pics tomorrow
it actual has an 8V battery in it...I have never seen that in almost 50 years of gracing this soil 
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Posted: 9/23/2016 7:23:56 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I will get some pics tomorrow it actual has an 8V battery in it...I have never seen that in almost 50 years of gracing this soil I converted half mine to twelve. |
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Posted: 9/24/2016 12:16:19 AM EDT
[#4]
Super A production stopped in 1954 so it definitely is not a '58. Depending on condition it could range in value from $1000-3000.
If it is a "wifey/fun/show tractor" then lack of 3 point is a non issue. Put a garden in and make use of the cultivators! 
Mid mount mowers are available used and new. Typically 59" for the Super A http://www.woodsequipment.com/productDetails.aspx?id=334 An 8v battery installed indicates a band aid for some underlying problem. 6v system work just fine as long as all the connections are clean and tight from the battery to the starter. Cables are thicker for 6v also and some people make the mistake of replacing battery cables with smaller 12v cables. Many people choose to convert to 12v but not an absolute necessity. Check the left side of the engine block closely next to and behind the carburetor for any cracks. Freeze cracks occur in that area. Grab the left rear tire at the top and try to rock it toward to tractor and back towards your chest. Excessive play indicates bearing wear in the final drive. Check all the major castings for cracks paying attention to final drives and engine block flanges(ears) where they meet the front steering/radiator casting. |
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Posted: 9/24/2016 5:24:12 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:An 8v battery installed indicates a band aid for some underlying problem. 6v system work just fine as long as all the connections are clean and tight from the battery to the starter. . Not always, they were a popular "upgrade" back in the day. Harder on light bulbs and charging systems may not always know what to do with it but it does work decent. Probably about half the non 12/24V tractors that come in are split between 6V and 8V. And yes, if everything is perfect 6V works ok. In the real world things are not always perfect. I wouldn't have it on anything but a show queen though, my main tractor was converted to 12V in the early 60's. Slop in the finals, if you don't know what you are looking for you are going to scare yourself no matter what. If it runs smooth and quiet I wouldn't worry about them more than that (check/change oil when you get it though) Usually the right wheel takes more of a beating plowing and is the first to give problems (bearings and seals) |
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Posted: 9/26/2016 10:21:35 AM EDT
[#6]
It appears to be an old tobacco cultivator (rear tines) and mid tines would be full width cultivator...this may work as a toy/show ride and she can be productive pre and post sammich making
Well life was in the way this weekend, I will try to get over to measure it, the whole tractor may just fit in between the rows my Ford 5000 makes due to width, may be able to just run it as a cultivator and not have to rotor till between rows  that would be a time saver
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Posted: 9/26/2016 11:17:07 AM EDT
[#7]
Front mount cultivators, the "mid mount" part does most of the work, rips out the weeds and aerates the soil. The problem is then the rear wheels pack everything back down again. So the weeds you just ripped out can have their roots pressed back into the soil and while it will screw them up for awhile they can grow again if they are lucky. With the rear rig (rear tines) it fluffs the soil back up again after the rear wheels have packed it which helps prevent that.
They might have made something different for tobacco but that is how they worked around here. The getcha with the rear rig is if you are on a sidehill the rear of the tractor will drift down in the soft freshly tilled dirt and the rear rig will start wiping out your crop. That is why around here (kinda hilly) most rear rigs were scrapped and they are kind of unusual to find. And you should be able to adjust your tractor and cultivator for different row widths too. Beware, thanks the "cultivision" with the tractor offset to one side with the wheels set narrow it will be a lot more willing to roll over to the left. Your Ford should be adjustable too unless it is a industrial or something like that. |
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Posted: 9/26/2016 1:01:13 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Front mount cultivators, the "mid mount" part does most of the work, rips out the weeds and aerates the soil. The problem is then the rear wheels pack everything back down again. So the weeds you just ripped out can have their roots pressed back into the soil and while it will screw them up for awhile they can grow again if they are lucky. With the rear rig (rear tines) it fluffs the soil back up again after the rear wheels have packed it which helps prevent that. They might have made something different for tobacco but that is how they worked around here. The getcha with the rear rig is if you are on a sidehill the rear of the tractor will drift down in the soft freshly tilled dirt and the rear rig will start wiping out your crop. That is why around here (kinda hilly) most rear rigs were scrapped and they are kind of unusual to find. And you should be able to adjust your tractor and cultivator for different row widths too. Beware, thanks the "cultivision" with the tractor offset to one side with the wheels set narrow it will be a lot more willing to roll over to the left. Your Ford should be adjustable too unless it is a industrial or something like that. Makes perfect sense ( I made a mount for my hiller that puts 2 small 4" spades out board to tear up what the tires compacted), my ford is adjustable a couple inches each side (it is set at widest) my rows end up being almost 6 ft wide (center to center) due to tractor size and that the hills are 1-1/2 ft wide
She won't do much in garden prep, she would like me to build a small trailer for a small tractor so she can drive to her flower bed areas a couple times a year  (she doesn't want to use the "hot ass P.O.S. pick up"...I guess it's just not the same as being beat to shit with no suspension, wearing a big floppy straw hat in 95* weather )
So you can see it's more novelty as a farm vehicle, still needs to be useful around the place, to earn it's keep 
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Posted: 9/29/2016 12:04:13 PM EDT
[#9]
I'm going tomorrow to return snap-on timing light and for some pictures and see if he will trade for an older taurus
he took this in on trade for an old truck so we will see
How can I tell if it is a gas or kerosene engine? I assume the kerosene would not have spark plugs etc, like a diesel? |
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Posted: 9/29/2016 12:52:59 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm going tomorrow to return snap-on timing light and for some pictures and see if he will trade for an older taurus
he took this in on trade for an old truck so we will see
How can I tell if it is a gas or kerosene engine? I assume the kerosene would not have spark plugs etc, like a diesel? Typically it would have a auxiliary (gasoline) starting tank, radiator shutters, warmer box on manifold, and the carburetors had a drain petcock. Internally it would have a lower compression ratio. Other than that it looks the same as a gas engine with spark plugs. |
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Posted: 9/29/2016 12:58:17 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm going tomorrow to return snap-on timing light and for some pictures and see if he will trade for an older taurus
he took this in on trade for an old truck so we will see
How can I tell if it is a gas or kerosene engine? I assume the kerosene would not have spark plugs etc, like a diesel? Ooh, I think I know this one. 2 tanks - it needs to start on gasoline, then switch to Kero. |
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Posted: 9/29/2016 1:00:52 PM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 9/29/2016 4:51:23 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The old "all-fuel" tractors run happily on gas... preferably without ethanol if possible. |
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Posted: 9/30/2016 4:03:31 PM EDT
[#14]
Just got back from driving it
By serial number it is a 1950 model(it was bought new in 1952 by the owner that is selling it) 
front tires are new, rear have tread and hold air...but typical dry rot steering has play at box (thrust washers?) or I noticed it had the older bolt/clamp pitman arm on it, so it could be splines will look closer this weekend, with weight on front tie rods and drag link feel good left brake doesn't work and it makes noise ????? right brake works great and quiet gas, starts good has oil pressure, no meter will check charge this weekend gas tank inside looks clean, carb needs to be gone through just to clean, and fuel filter/water seperator needs cleaning radiator looks good, no corrosion and clean fluid no smoke while running and "sounds" good hydraulics work, handles are stiff and need cleaning/lube rust issue with seat and battery box and needs new cables grill/front sheet metal is dented, gas tank and fenders looked clean it has wheel weights and comes with: Super A sickle mower hay rake a corn planter (they all need tlc to use I am sure, parts move just rusty) he has no idea if or how they work, I drove tractor into his shop so we can check it out this weekend and wife can drive her "anniversary present" sorry so long |
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Posted: 9/30/2016 4:17:58 PM EDT
[#15]
It looks pretty good to me. As good as my IH 404 that's 12 years newer that I use all the time.
If you get it I think it'll be a fun old tractor if you don't ask too much of it. |
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Posted: 9/30/2016 5:26:42 PM EDT
[#16]
I put worse tires on the back of my C 15 years ago.. and they are still on there.
Steiner has battery boxes. Sounds like it comes with a lot of stuff that if the price is right you could probably resell and offset the price of the tractor if you don't want it. |
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Posted: 9/30/2016 6:56:55 PM EDT
[#17]
left brake doesnt work, which apparently is normal at this age
 due to the seal at the carrier going bad, so remove final drives, and pull ring gear/carrier and replace seals...easy
may not need to actually remove carrier still looking for a good diagram |
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Posted: 10/1/2016 9:32:29 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
left brake doesnt work, which apparently is normal at this age due to the seal at the carrier going bad, so remove final drives, and pull ring gear/carrier and replace seals...easy
may not need to actually remove carrier still looking for a good diagram Case IH has a decent parts lookup: http://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::home Jensales and Steiner have service manuals. |
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Posted: 10/2/2016 8:30:15 AM EDT
[#19]
Looks pretty decent to me - buy it!
I put many hours on one of those as a teenager - we had a Super A with a Woods 59 belly mower to mow our 3 acre property. Many hours of use and not a bit of trouble. |
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Posted: 10/2/2016 2:54:38 PM EDT
[#20]
Saw stiener has the seals and brake linings/actuators for almost 1/2 price of IH dealers, the dealers has awesome online manuals for part numbers.
We have 2 more loads of canning to process, so should head over with flashights to check for block cracks and let her drive it, to see if she is comfy on it...this afternoon. The mower and rake need lots of work, so may need to make a derusting bath for parts (forgot process name )
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Posted: 10/2/2016 5:06:36 PM EDT
[#21]
Nice that it has wheel weights all the way around
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Posted: 10/2/2016 7:47:40 PM EDT
[#22]
The test drive
well....she loved it! 16th anniversary present! She is smiling so....I nailed it
next drive her home this week and tear her down for spring fling
so we own another tractor, older than us 
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Posted: 10/2/2016 9:02:32 PM EDT
[#23]
I own a couple that are 60's vintage but not older than me. Saving old tractors is an honorable thing to do.
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Posted: 10/4/2016 2:02:40 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Saw stiener has the seals and brake linings/actuators for almost 1/2 price of IH dealers, the dealers has awesome online manuals for part numbers. We have 2 more loads of canning to process, so should head over with flashights to check for block cracks and let her drive it, to see if she is comfy on it...this afternoon. The mower and rake need lots of work, so may need to make a derusting bath for parts (forgot process name )
You can get heavier double lip seals from a parts store than you will get from either CNH or Steiner. |
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Posted: 10/4/2016 3:37:04 PM EDT
[#25]
Good to know and that would be a better way to go.
I figured my first avenue will be just to measure ID,OD and thickness and go that route when I can, I was mostly shocked at the price difference, I figured they would all be $$$$$$$$$ Grabbed a couple plastic barrels to make electrolysis tanks out of this weekend, we have a lot of stuff to grab that goes with it...then run down manuals and diagrams, that is part of the fun looking for older stuff and then making it if you can not find it |
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Posted: 10/4/2016 4:19:43 PM EDT
[#26]
A decent parts guy can cross the numbers off the seals or out of the parts book.
Name brand stuff 1940's and newer shouldn't require much stuff to be made, if not aftermarket it is out there used. The oddball brands... yeah. |
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Posted: 10/4/2016 4:22:04 PM EDT
[#27]
Brings back fond memories.
My uncle had one with a belly mower under it. He called it the billy goat. All of his kids and nieces and nephews would drive that thing all over the farm. My brother was back for a visit with his son and was telling him about the good old days and a tractor called the billy goat that my uncle had. My uncle said "I've still got it" ! So off to the shed they went and another generation got the opportunity to drive it. I found out just a year ago that he sold it 
I wish I had known, I would have bought it. |
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Posted: 10/6/2016 2:53:11 PM EDT
[#28]
well look
she is forward way too far, only had 1-1/2 miles or so to go, said piss on it (with wheel wieghts and ALL tires filled she was heavier than I planned)
I am just figuring out where everything is and what does what this afternoon, I need to get my tractor back down to the lot and use FEL to load up parts and implements that came with her onto the trailer |
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Posted: 10/6/2016 2:53:54 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Brings back fond memories. My uncle had one with a belly mower under it. He called it the billy goat. All of his kids and nieces and nephews would drive that thing all over the farm. My brother was back for a visit with his son and was telling him about the good old days and a tractor called the billy goat that my uncle had. My uncle said "I've still got it" ! So off to the shed they went and another generation got the opportunity to drive it. I found out just a year ago that he sold it
I wish I had known, I would have bought it. that sucks maybe you can find the ole girl and bring her home, good luck with that! |
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