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Posted: 5/17/2017 7:41:42 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Binders are heavy equipment things, you won't need them. Upgrade your straps if you are concerned for your loads. And if you ever need to get into the world of binders, ratchet binders are the way to go. No more broken arms. Mostly my interest in the binders and chains is that a-a chain is a handy thing to have around, and knowing how to use one is extremely useful b-the more I see how loads are strapped down and contained, the more I will learn how to think about loads in general. I even like the disagreements about crossing straps/chains vs not, etc etc. Because there is usually more than one way to skin a cat safely, and there is a huge amount of knowledge among the members here, but you can't know there are good ways and bad ways until you see stuff discussed and subjects come up. |
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Posted: 5/17/2017 7:43:55 PM EDT
[#2]
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They can further explain things but in the pic if you look at the blue part it looks like it can not come forward anymore. If you look in the pic at the top of the bucket you will see some chain attached to the tractor there. So what I think I am seeing is the chain in the front with the 2 blue things, one on each end, is mostly just holding the bucket down and in place. A chain the bucket is blocking is going to the tractor frame. And in back should be another chain securing the back of the tractor as well. I agree with the para cord on a lever or whatever, that way if stopped for something someone can't come by and open the lever cause they want to cause you trouble. Cut the cord and open the lever yeah. I always walk around before leaving a place I stopped, so I would see the paracord missing. Because of you, now after I go in for my cone, I walk around my trailer and check my straps before I climb in and continue on. 
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Posted: 5/17/2017 10:27:29 PM EDT
[#3]
I had a class b cdl and the walk around inspection is required with commercial stuff. I started doing it more with my stuff just from habit. I have noticed tires losing air, not flat but lower than it should be, and since I keep a little air compressor with me usually I could air it up and get it to a shop instead of putting a spare on.
I have worked in factories and as a mechanic and other jobs where sometimes pranks go to far. So checking your vehicle for something tied to the bumper or this or that is also part of why I still check stuff. I will even put notes on my steering wheel if I am doing something odd with my stuff and going to be busy for a while. A lot of rv folks have a reminder to make sure their toad is in neutral or the steps are pulled up or other stuff. I would say sorry for giving you that habit, but I hear now and then when someone says they noticed something they might not have normally noticed. And even though I live in a rural area, there are some kids who will be kids and yeah I want at least a cheap lock on the latch for my trailer hitch and hitch pin. They don't just fall out ever. |
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Posted: 5/18/2017 9:35:06 AM EDT
[#4]
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I will definitely be ugrading straps as I can. I may be asking in here about some different ones. I'm just overwhelmed and putting out the fires in front of me as I can at the moment (which is why I haven't had the welder back out and hooked up again.) Mostly my interest in the binders and chains is that a-a chain is a handy thing to have around, and knowing how to use one is extremely useful b-the more I see how loads are strapped down and contained, the more I will learn how to think about loads in general. I even like the disagreements about crossing straps/chains vs not, etc etc. Because there is usually more than one way to skin a cat safely, and there is a huge amount of knowledge among the members here, but you can't know there are good ways and bad ways until you see stuff discussed and subjects come up. You can buy a 20" chain at Lowes & have them cut it in half - add hooks to the cut ends & you have two 10' chains. There are two common styles of hook you can put on a chain. The "grab" hook is designed to grab a chain link (across the link - not in the link). A "slip" hook is designed to let links slide through (think slip knot or noose) and may also be handy on grabbing some other items with loops or other feature that can stand the pull. You can use a slip hook to do an angled pull with another chain or strap if the slip hook's chain can be safely attached at an anchor point (visualize clock hands @ 6:15 w/hands representing the actual pulling line). You can't always pull something straight out ... Nick |
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Posted: 5/19/2017 11:05:17 PM EDT
[#5]
@Merlin
In the Tractor thread Here, you said: That's why I like to use standing ramps instead of the slideout ramps. Easy to add a "foot" to them to reduce trailer stress and tow vehicle rear tire lift while loading and unloading.
There was someone in our four wheel drive club that had a dually going down a hill one time because he lifted the rear tires - unloading the parking brake - while loading a small tractor. Yep, no standing ramps, no foot. By "standing ramps"...Are you saying you use ramps that support themselves so that you get whatever is being loaded up in the air to the level of the trailer bed WITHOUT putting a load straight on the back of the trailer all that time? ( I read the posts about lifting the tow vehicle off the ground while loading, which I took to mean so much "rear weight" that it lifted the tongue so much that it picked the tow vehicle off the ground.) I did not know there were such things as standing ramps, but this seems like good information to have. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 3:00:23 AM EDT
[#6]
You know the cute little drive up ramps for changing oil? I have a couple of plastic ones of those. Now and then I think something like that would be useful because there would be no leverage from the ramp put into the trailer and trying to lift the rear of the vehicle. For most of what I do, no biggy.
The flip down ramps that are attached to a trailer will try to lift the front of the trailer and therefore the rear of the tow vehicle. I have seen these ramps with zero supports coming down from the ramp to the ground, the ramp only touches the back of the trailer and the ground where the vehicle or mower or whatever will hit the ramp. And I have seen flip down ramps with a sort of support, some do not adjust and basically it would keep the trailer from moving much and probably stop any actual lifting of the rear wheels of the tow vehicle. To some extent this comes down to how someone treats things. Get an old fella who knows his equipment and does it right and there may never ever be an issue. Get a young kid and suddenly the vehicle hits the ramps hard and that puts a lot more force on lifting the rear of the vehicle and away we go. Once rolling, not sure how well some stuff is going to get stopped. I know a friend who tells some people to put their truck in 4x4 and the manual transmission in gear with engine off and engage the parking brake. Newbs usually do it and ask why. He says that way if the rear wheels come off the ground the parking brake and transmission are keeping the front wheels from rolling. Heck, I know people who put wheel chalks in front of the wheels so the vehicle can not move. For little single axle trailers I don't get to worried about it unless someone is pushing the limits. Seeing some of the trucks people use for hauling bobcats and other decently heavy equipment around, yeah I expect some silly stuff happens. Pirate 4x4 has a monster thread on "big dumb loads" in their towing section. A lot of it is hauling and what not but you will see all sorts of stuff in there. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:40:36 AM EDT
[#7]
Another thing that you can do is use wooden blocks under the very back of the trailer to prevent the trailer from going down when you drive up on the ramps. We do this for the one Bobcat trailer at the farm because since the ramps were rebuilt with new stronger ramps the feet haven't been added yet.
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Posted: 5/22/2017 8:17:37 AM EDT
[#8]
Went to OBX and 9 miles up the 4x4 beach to pull a trooper back....was not fun
Still waiting on the Powerstroke to be finished lol |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 3:02:39 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Went to OBX and 9 miles up the 4x4 beach to pull a trooper back....was not fun http://i.imgur.com/9sd3Mik.jpg http://i.imgur.com/14afNtd.jpg Still waiting on the Powerstroke to be finished lol Is that your trooper? |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 6:23:13 PM EDT
[#10]
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Owww! Is that your trooper? Surprisingly the dodge did a helluva job pulling it across the beach...even when the wheels got locked to the left and we were bulldozing sand it was still tugging it right along lol |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 6:43:05 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Went to OBX and 9 miles up the 4x4 beach to pull a trooper back....was not fun http://i.imgur.com/9sd3Mik.jpg http://i.imgur.com/14afNtd.jpg Still waiting on the Powerstroke to be finished lol was it? Any reason the tire wasn't changed? Did I miss something? |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 8:49:45 PM EDT
[#12]
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It wasn't dragged on a road like that...... was it? Any reason the tire wasn't changed? Did I miss something? |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 10:32:47 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@Merlin In the Tractor thread Here, you said: I didn't post my question there because I didn't want to keep jacking that thread, and this seemed like a trailer question, so.. By "standing ramps"...Are you saying you use ramps that support themselves so that you get whatever is being loaded up in the air to the level of the trailer bed WITHOUT putting a load straight on the back of the trailer all that time? ( I read the posts about lifting the tow vehicle off the ground while loading, which I took to mean so much "rear weight" that it lifted the tongue so much that it picked the tow vehicle off the ground.) I did not know there were such things as standing ramps, but this seems like good information to have. Not my pictures, but examples of standing ramps with "feet": Notice that the feet limit the downward force and travel of the rear of the trailer, thereby limiting the upward force on the front, hence limiting how much it lifts the rear of the tow vehicle. Hope this helps. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 11:03:54 PM EDT
[#14]
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Not my pictures, but examples of standing ramps with "feet": https://tse4.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.33eMQbdGQMMMYNF42GBY9gEsDH&pid=15.1 https://tse2.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.6dLycPiZZu5s5EGTLCb4lQEsDH&pid=15.1 Very cool. Thank you! 
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Posted: 5/22/2017 11:11:56 PM EDT
[#15]
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@Kitties-with-Sigs Not my pictures, but examples of standing ramps with "feet": https://tse4.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.33eMQbdGQMMMYNF42GBY9gEsDH&pid=15.1 https://tse2.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.6dLycPiZZu5s5EGTLCb4lQEsDH&pid=15.1 Notice that the feet limit the downward force and travel of the rear of the trailer, thereby limiting the upward force on the front, hence limiting how much it lifts the rear of the tow vehicle. Hope this helps. I know its not your pic, but its purpose alludes me. Not the right ramps for snowmobiles/ATVs, not right for a skidsteer, not heavy enough for other heavy equipment, too high for a car hauler, ????? |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 11:23:03 PM EDT
[#16]
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Trying to figure out what that trailer is configured for... I know its not your pic, but its purpose alludes me. Not the right ramps for snowmobiles/ATVs, not right for a skidsteer, not heavy enough for other heavy equipment, too high for a car hauler, ????? |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 11:23:45 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Trying to figure out what that trailer is configured for... I know its not your pic, but its purpose alludes me. Not the right ramps for snowmobiles/ATVs, not right for a skidsteer, not heavy enough for other heavy equipment, too high for a car hauler, ????? Why wouldn't a snowmobile/atv/SXS/rtv or skidsteer use those trailers? (Assuming the weight matched for the skidsteer). On mine and on those trailers I've seen the ramps slide in and out to match different width vehicles. The pictures above don't show it very well, but it appears the ramps can slide in to about 16"-18" apart. I've had my: JD lawn mower (LD133), Kubota RTV, ZTR and tractor, my son's Honda, my Pathfinder, my Toy 4runner rock crawler, two 1 ton Dodge Rams, (and probably several others I've forgotten about) on my trailers. No problemo. |
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Posted: 5/23/2017 12:08:28 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Trying to figure out what that trailer is configured for... I know its not your pic, but its purpose alludes me. Not the right ramps for snowmobiles/ATVs, not right for a skidsteer, not heavy enough for other heavy equipment, too high for a car hauler, ????? The ramps will slide closer together to allowing cars or equipment with a narrower wheelbase. In some cases the ramps are handier for unloading heavy items in the field that were loaded with a forklift. Dragging a skid down the ramp is pretty easy. I've had to unload a 2000 pound 8' cube using two pieces of 3/4 black pipe and a crowbar. |
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Posted: 5/23/2017 11:57:24 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
IME trailers like that are general or multipurpose, used for smaller 4x4 tractors, 4x4 trenchers, directional drilling machines, etc.. Pallet loads are easily lifted from the side. An equipment trailer is less suited for pallet loads. With this deck over the wheels you can handle both. The ramps will slide closer together to allowing cars or equipment with a narrower wheelbase. In some cases the ramps are handier for unloading heavy items in the field that were loaded with a forklift. Dragging a skid down the ramp is pretty easy. I've had to unload a 2000 pound 8' cube using two pieces of 3/4 black pipe and a crowbar. |
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Posted: 5/23/2017 1:03:59 PM EDT
[#20]
I can see drywall or palletized type stuff. To me it seemed too high and too light duty axles for any kind of equipment requiring ramps like that.
Just kind of an oddball shape to me I guess. Don't see trailers with that particular build style around here. |
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Posted: 5/23/2017 1:04:53 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I can see drywall or palletized type stuff. To me it seemed too high and too light duty axles for any kind of equipment requiring ramps like that. Just kind of an oddball shape to me I guess. Don't see trailers with that particular build style around here. |
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Posted: 5/23/2017 1:12:40 PM EDT
[#22]
Just noticed the ramps on that model only slide a few inches narrower, which is also very odd. Have the feeling it was made for a specific purpose.
Sorry for the jack Kitties, please return to your regularly scheduled conversation 
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Posted: 5/23/2017 4:38:00 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just noticed the ramps on that model only slide a few inches narrower, which is also very odd. Have the feeling it was made for a specific purpose. Sorry for the jack Kitties, please return to your regularly scheduled conversation 
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Posted: 5/23/2017 4:45:29 PM EDT
[#24]
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Nope I think this is perfect conversation. It's all learning about trailers, loading them, and hauling stuff.  . You may enjoy it due to the new load securing system going in.
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Posted: 5/23/2017 9:16:17 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Trying to figure out what that trailer is configured for... I know its not your pic, but its purpose alludes me. Not the right ramps for snowmobiles/ATVs, not right for a skidsteer, not heavy enough for other heavy equipment, too high for a car hauler, ????? Those type trailers are typically known as "car haulers". Obviously, depending on size and weight capability, they can carry more than "cars" as I alluded to in my earlier post. |
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Posted: 5/23/2017 9:42:17 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Realized I never answered this question: Those type trailers are typically known as "car haulers". Obviously, depending on size and weight capability, they can carry more than "cars" as I alluded to in my earlier post. The car haulers I see around here tend to set a little lower, with raised fenders. Same for the heavier equipment trailers. I'll have to start looking more closely when I see cars on trailers. |
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Posted: 5/23/2017 11:21:42 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Interesting. The car haulers I see around here tend to set a little lower, with raised fenders. Same for the heavier equipment trailers. I'll have to start looking more closely when I see cars on trailers. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Realized I never answered this question: Those type trailers are typically known as "car haulers". Obviously, depending on size and weight capability, they can carry more than "cars" as I alluded to in my earlier post. The car haulers I see around here tend to set a little lower, with raised fenders. Same for the heavier equipment trailers. I'll have to start looking more closely when I see cars on trailers. Probably a result of Minnesota construction. Stuff (roads, public projects) is ALWAYS being built, so there are TONS of contractors who buy TONS of equipment, which saturates the used market. If it wasn't meant for yuppy needs or construction needs, it would be a rare bird in these parts. |
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Posted: 5/23/2017 11:50:54 PM EDT
[#28]
Really, it just depends on the set-up of the trailer. This seems like your usual gooseneck flatbed right? Did you know half the bed tilts down to load either a car, truck, tractor, you name it? We have one smaller then this for cars and smaller equipment also. (This was last summer)
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Posted: 5/23/2017 11:58:37 PM EDT
[#29]
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How would you have done it differently? (Serious question...I want to hear people talk about their approaches and why they choose those) |
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Posted: 5/24/2017 10:39:26 AM EDT
[#30]
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Your load can flip off if it hits a curb or steep side grade. 4 points, 4 corners uncrossed, your trailer can flip and your load will still be attached. People make this mistake all the time. Heck, you could even lose one strap and still have safe attachment if they aren't crossed. Just think about it for a few minutes. If you can't figure it out, make a model with a toy car and see what I mean. A very interesting book to read is the US Army's "Tiedown Handbook for Truck Movements". It's basically the bible on how the USA ties down and secures it's heavy vehicles (tanks, armoured vehicles etc. ) for truck movement. The booklet number is "SDDCTEA Pamphlet 55-20". A .pdf link is here: https://www.sddc.army.mil/sites/TEA/Functions/Deployability/TransportabilityEngineering/Transportability%20Engineering%20Publications/Pam_55-20_45.pdf In that book, they have 4 specific criteria when to use crossed tiedowns, see Section II, A. General, page 9; otherwise the tiedowns should be same side. And here are pics of one of my car hauler trailers with my Toy Rock Crawler on it. Note the use of both same side and crossed tiedowns. I used the 55-20 book as a guide to ensure my rock crawler would be secure for a +5000 mile trip out west. 
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Posted: 5/24/2017 11:02:47 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm late to this thread and haven't read all 9 pages, so this may have been posted before. A very interesting book to read is the US Army's "Tiedown Handbook for Truck Movements". It's basically the bible on how the USA ties down and secures it's heavy vehicles (tanks, armoured vehicles etc. ) for truck movement. The booklet number is "SDDCTEA Pamphlet 55-20". A .pdf link is here: https://www.sddc.army.mil/sites/TEA/Functions/Deployability/TransportabilityEngineering/Transportability%20Engineering%20Publications/Pam_55-20_45.pdf In that book, they have 4 specific criteria when to use crossed tiedowns, see Section II, A. General, page 9; otherwise the tiedowns should be same side. And here are pics of one of my car hauler trailers with my Toy Rock Crawler on it. Note the use of both same side and crossed tiedowns. I used the 55-20 book as a guide to ensure my rock crawler would be secure for a +5000 mile trip out west. http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p111/Albinator/Trailer%20Tiedowns/07-09-08%20IMG_0420%20Al%20Medium_zpsysyvrtxd.jpg http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p111/Albinator/Trailer%20Tiedowns/07-09-08%20IMG_0414%20Al%20Medium_zpsqapque7s.jpg 
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Posted: 5/24/2017 11:04:47 AM EDT
[#32]
It should be mentioned that I've seen lever binders come loose, as in completely loose and worthless (the lever wasn't secured as in with paracord like a previous poster showed). If the load isn't 100% tight with a lever binder, it can all go to shit. Ratchet binders cannot loosen like that.
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Posted: 5/24/2017 12:06:54 PM EDT
[#33]
I hate lever binders. I bought four for hauling my tractor around. Used them a couple times, replaced them with binders. Lesson learned.
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Posted: 5/24/2017 12:12:32 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm late to this thread and haven't read all 9 pages, so this may have been posted before. A very interesting book to read is the US Army's "Tiedown Handbook for Truck Movements". It's basically the bible on how the USA ties down and secures it's heavy vehicles (tanks, armoured vehicles etc. ) for truck movement. The booklet number is "SDDCTEA Pamphlet 55-20". A .pdf link is here: https://www.sddc.army.mil/sites/TEA/Functions/Deployability/TransportabilityEngineering/Transportability%20Engineering%20Publications/Pam_55-20_45.pdf In that book, they have 4 specific criteria when to use crossed tiedowns, see Section II, A. General, page 9; otherwise the tiedowns should be same side. And here are pics of one of my car hauler trailers with my Toy Rock Crawler on it. Note the use of both same side and crossed tiedowns. I used the 55-20 book as a guide to ensure my rock crawler would be secure for a +5000 mile trip out west. http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p111/Albinator/Trailer%20Tiedowns/07-09-08%20IMG_0420%20Al%20Medium_zpsysyvrtxd.jpg http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p111/Albinator/Trailer%20Tiedowns/07-09-08%20IMG_0414%20Al%20Medium_zpsqapque7s.jpg )
Anyway, WHAT AN AWESOME FREAKING RESOURCE!!!!!! Thank you for posting this. I am going to eventually print this whole thing and read it. And now I know how to think about crossed straps/chains properly. I realize right now that there have been a couple of times when I should have chosen that, to better secure even my little mower on the trailer, when I had other stuff riding with me that was in the way of the same-side tie-down, and which weakened my ability to tighten the strap as I would have liked. It worried me at the time, but I couldn't avoid it. However the straps crossing...I have to learn more about how to keep them from rubbing against one another if I am forced to use that configuration in future. I know it's silly for my little loads, but I like knowing what I'm doing, and knowing different options for stuff. |
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Posted: 5/24/2017 12:15:01 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I hate lever binders. I bought four for hauling my tractor around. Used them a couple times, replaced them with binders. Lesson learned. the red things pictured are a sort of "come-along" with a ratchet mechanism? Is that' what y'all are talking about? |
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Posted: 5/24/2017 12:31:25 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay so... the red things pictured are a sort of "come-along" with a ratchet mechanism? Is that' what y'all are talking about? |
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Posted: 5/24/2017 12:33:13 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Extra points for using ratchet binders and securing the chassis with straps instead of chains. I know y'all get tired of answering my dumb questions, but this thread is one of the best I've ever seen, in all my years on forums, for helping somebody understand what is not commonly available knowledge unless you've been taught by people who know.
It's kind of like growing good Burley tobacco. It's a niche skill. There are a lot of things you just can't get by reading, that I would do automatically. It's very interesting to me what I *do* know and what I *don't* know. Grew up on a farm, know how to do some really oddball stuff, but we never "hauled" things except on a wagon (hay or tobacco from the field to the barn) or in the back of a pickup truck (with or without cattle racks). Securing loads on a trailer is not something I learned to do. With nothing much but the help of this thread, I researched and bought a great trailer I absolutely love (but was afraid of) and would buy that same trailer again. I also learned to load my mower and tie it down and drive over the road. If my tow vehicle was roadworthy, I would not be one bit afraid to take this trailer on the interstate. Learning about securing loads seems like the next logical step. I'm going to have to do that more often in future, and with different kinds of loads. (Rehabbing two old houses now, plus putting up a storage building. Will end up hauling some stuff) I dislike sitting at Lowe's (or elsewhere) and staring at what they've put on my trailer and not knowing immediately how I want to tie it down so I can get out of the way. |
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Posted: 5/24/2017 12:57:59 PM EDT
[#38]
Ratchet binders are superior in every way to lever binders.
Chassis with suspension bounce. Chains don't like bounce. Chains have a habbit of getting loose/free with bouncing. Straps are OK with bounce, plus they can give a bit if needed (stretch). The chains keep the truck on the trailer, the straps reduce bouncing dramatically. |
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Posted: 5/24/2017 1:48:53 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ratchet binders are superior in every way to lever binders. Chassis with suspension bounce. Chains don't like bounce. Chains have a habbit of getting loose/free with bouncing. Straps are OK with bounce, plus they can give a bit if needed (stretch). The chains keep the truck on the trailer, the straps reduce bouncing dramatically. |
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Posted: 5/24/2017 2:47:20 PM EDT
[#40]
Here's a fun picture for your thread. Bought a storage box earlier this year and the guy delivering it missed the driveway coming in. But you can clearly see how he strapped it.
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Posted: 5/24/2017 3:08:04 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay so... the red things pictured are a sort of "come-along" with a ratchet mechanism? Is that' what y'all are talking about? Ratchet binder: 
Lever binder: 
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Posted: 5/24/2017 7:59:30 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Pics are worth a thousand words. How they work should be clear. Ratchet binder: http://www.awdirect.com/product_images/large/9jh81_as02.jpg Lever binder: http://www.awdirect.com/product_images/large/9fga8_as01.jpg |
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Posted: 5/24/2017 8:39:20 PM EDT
[#43]
LMAO especially on the release!
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Posted: 5/24/2017 9:28:24 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Pics are worth a thousand words. How they work should be clear. Ratchet binder: http://www.awdirect.com/product_images/large/9jh81_as02.jpg Lever binder: http://www.awdirect.com/product_images/large/9fga8_as01.jpg I think I would require lessons to use the lever binder. 
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Posted: 5/24/2017 9:31:08 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here's a fun picture for your thread. Bought a storage box earlier this year and the guy delivering it missed the driveway coming in. But you can clearly see how he strapped it. http://i.imgur.com/LQJLVd4.jpg I saw the photo before your cutline and thought he'd slid off the road.
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Posted: 5/24/2017 9:31:54 PM EDT
[#46]
Only one lesson needed for lever binders:
Don't use them. 
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Posted: 5/24/2017 9:32:51 PM EDT
[#47]
Don't have to be a new guy with lever binders to get hurt. My younger brother just got smacked good (broke something, forget what) with a lever binder that let go on him as he was securing a boom lift. He is highly experienced with hauling heavy equipment.
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Posted: 5/24/2017 9:38:45 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ever had a vehicle start resonant bouncing? Pretty scary: It starts, you have no clue what's going on, slow down it goes away or moderates, speed up comes back. Took a while to figure it out. That's when I learned to strap the chassis, if only using two straps near the middle vs the ends like the pics above, it helps. Takes an interesting (and thankfully rare) combination of road conditions, trailer and trailer tire conditions and towed vehicle characteristics to happen. Really good education in that photo...strapping the vehicle down, then strapping the chassis down. |
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Posted: 5/24/2017 9:40:51 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Only one lesson needed for lever binders: Don't use them. Kitties is not generally good at standing around watching other people work, but it pays to know when to make an exception to the rule. 
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Posted: 5/24/2017 9:46:08 PM EDT
[#50]
I think northern tool is currently running a sale & has 2 ratchet binders for $35 (5/16" , 5400 lb WLL) if you are near a store...
Nick |
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