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Make sure they replace that hangar and u joint, even if they "look good"
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The whole shaft from the transfer case is getting replaced regardless. Depending on insurance we will more then likely be lining the rear back up and put back together at our shop then sending her to the body shop
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So insurance is gonna do the deed, we pick up a 3500 Cummins rental tomorrow, needless to say....its huge that is infact what she said
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Okay y'all.
I've had my trailer for almost exactly a year, and... I want a bigger trailer. Y'all told me it would happen. Y'all were right. THANK GOD you talked me out of the teeny weeny thing I was looking at in the first post!!!! |
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Okay y'all. I've had my trailer for almost exactly a year, and... I want a bigger trailer. Y'all told me it would happen. Y'all were right. THANK GOD you talked me out of the teeny weeny thing I was looking at in the first post!!!! View Quote |
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Okay y'all. I've had my trailer for almost exactly a year, and... I want a bigger trailer. Y'all told me it would happen. Y'all were right. THANK GOD you talked me out of the teeny weeny thing I was looking at in the first post!!!! View Quote |
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Get one that can haul a 7.5k pound ram cylinder http://i.imgur.com/G4Z2IgRh.jpg That trailers not even flexing either, we had two of those cylinders on it before for a lovely total gross weight truck and all of 2 metric fuck tons...i mean 24500 View Quote |
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I am blessed that I work for a civil Design/build firm. I have a little trailer but if I need a big one we have them in the yard. And if I need a really big one we have trucks to pull them. View Quote I need an engineer's stamp on a renovation I'm doing. Just sayin. |
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Okay so I wrote on my straps I use for my mower.
FR (Front, passenger side) FL (front, driver's side) RLeft (Rear, driver's side) RRight (Rear, passenger's side) Because that way I don't have to keep adjusting my straps. Then it occurred to me, a few months later (duh, since I've spent many, many years handling rope and webbing that saves lives) that I might have deteriorated my (cheap, walmart) ratchet straps by writing on the webbing with sharpie. Do y'all have certain "regular" things you haul? And do you have straps "set" for those things? And if so, do you mark your straps? And if so, how? I kinda don't care about THESE lame-ass straps, cuz I hate them (okay I do sorta care, since uxb has to go back to school and we will now be poor again for the next year and a half) but I WILL care if I buy better straps. |
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I have 8 medium duty straps. Can't say I'd use them strapping stuff down on a big rig flat bed, but they aren't Walmart stuff.
I don't dedicate straps, but I can see the value doing that. Here is my last haul from yesterday. Attached File |
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Okay so I wrote on my straps I use for my mower. FR (Front, passenger side) FL (front, driver's side) RLeft (Rear, driver's side) RRight (Rear, passenger's side) Because that way I don't have to keep adjusting my straps. Then it occurred to me, a few months later (duh, since I've spent many, many years handling rope and webbing that saves lives) that I might have deteriorated my (cheap, walmart) ratchet straps by writing on the webbing with sharpie. Do y'all have certain "regular" things you haul? And do you have straps "set" for those things? And if so, do you mark your straps? And if so, how? I kinda don't care about THESE lame-ass straps, cuz I hate them (okay I do sorta care, since uxb has to go back to school and we will now be poor again for the next year and a half) but I WILL care if I buy better straps. View Quote |
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Write on the ratchet part if it will hold the mark or get some paint or zip tie a piece of cloth to the hook part and write on the cloth.
I undo my ratchets and put em away if I unload the trailer. By undo I mean I pull it apart so one hand is holding the ratchet and its short piece of strap with a hook, and the other hand is holding the other long piece of strap with a hook. The ratchet gets closed and usually not even rubber banded. The long piece gets rolled up and rubber banded. And into the bag of straps they go. If loading something and going somewhere, sure the straps need set. It is not hard to do on the straps I bought. When I arrive I leave the straps on the trailer deck,out of the way of the mower in this example but each in their corner so it is easy to put em back on. When I get home I unload and part of me checking out my straps is taking em apart. Rolling the long end up makes me examine the material for any weak areas or damage. I have a lot of ratchets. I could see if I had a mowing business setting things up permanent but I don't haul often enough I have an issue with looking things over. If I don't pull the ratchet straps apart and store em as I explained above I have have a big tangle of mess to undo in order to use em next time. Generally anywhere I go I can trust my stuff to sit and not be stolen. |
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Write on the ratchet part if it will hold the mark or get some paint or zip tie a piece of cloth to the hook part and write on the cloth. I undo my ratchets and put em away if I unload the trailer. By undo I mean I pull it apart so one hand is holding the ratchet and its short piece of strap with a hook, and the other hand is holding the other long piece of strap with a hook. The ratchet gets closed and usually not even rubber banded. The long piece gets rolled up and rubber banded. And into the bag of straps they go. If loading something and going somewhere, sure the straps need set. It is not hard to do on the straps I bought. When I arrive I leave the straps on the trailer deck,out of the way of the mower in this example but each in their corner so it is easy to put em back on. When I get home I unload and part of me checking out my straps is taking em apart. Rolling the long end up makes me examine the material for any weak areas or damage. I have a lot of ratchets. I could see if I had a mowing business setting things up permanent but I don't haul often enough I have an issue with looking things over. If I don't pull the ratchet straps apart and store em as I explained above I have have a big tangle of mess to undo in order to use em next time. Generally anywhere I go I can trust my stuff to sit and not be stolen. View Quote |
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Write on the ratchet part if it will hold the mark or get some paint or zip tie a piece of cloth to the hook part and write on the cloth. I undo my ratchets and put em away if I unload the trailer. By undo I mean I pull it apart so one hand is holding the ratchet and its short piece of strap with a hook, and the other hand is holding the other long piece of strap with a hook. The ratchet gets closed and usually not even rubber banded. The long piece gets rolled up and rubber banded. And into the bag of straps they go. If loading something and going somewhere, sure the straps need set. It is not hard to do on the straps I bought. When I arrive I leave the straps on the trailer deck,out of the way of the mower in this example but each in their corner so it is easy to put em back on. When I get home I unload and part of me checking out my straps is taking em apart. Rolling the long end up makes me examine the material for any weak areas or damage. I have a lot of ratchets. I could see if I had a mowing business setting things up permanent but I don't haul often enough I have an issue with looking things over. If I don't pull the ratchet straps apart and store em as I explained above I have have a big tangle of mess to undo in order to use em next time. Generally anywhere I go I can trust my stuff to sit and not be stolen. View Quote Incidentally, thanks to y'all and this thread, I hauled my mower to the tire place two weeks ago to get new rear tires, pulled through the bay (they have doors on both sides which is nice cuz kitties is still practicing backing) and the guys just stood there with mouths open and went, "Daaayum. You don't plan for that machine to MOVE, do you?" Me: "Nope." (Incidentally they cinched it back down for me and I wish they hadn't. They effed up one of my straps. ) Anyway...I should say that this time savings with loading is directly related to my straps being already kind of "set." If I don't have them just right, there isn't room in the ratchet mechanism for the rolled up webbing, or I'll get it set and then there's not enough strap to make five or six ratchet turns, which is what the instructions said is the minimum for safety. (I have not spent time learning a lot about straps yet, simply because I don't have the time. This is my failure, so I don't truly understand the straps yet, and am insecure. Once I apply my mind to it and take the time to screw around wtih the mechanism, hopefully I will grab onto it and gain confidence.) All that to say...if I don't have the straps set, I have to screw around with them a lot and don't know what I'm doing so it really slows me down. So I really like the whole "set straps for certain regular loads" thing. I wrap each of my straps up neatly and put a tarp bungee around each one, so I just reach in my tie-down box in the back of the retro Trooper, grab the four red straps, pop the bungees, look at the writing on the webbing *hangs head* and begin securing the load. |
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look at what mowing business use..... they have trailers with sides and never tie down equipment at least every one I have worked for never tie down equipment View Quote That's not likely to ever be me. Maybe with a ZTR with its extremely WIIIIIIDE base and low center of gravity, but even then, I don't like the idea of going down the road with something not tied down. I bounced my mower the other day with three straps on it, just by accidentally running the trailer wheel over a small curb. (Hey, it's the first time I've done that, so I'm not too embarrassed. ) The machine went kind of diagonal on the trailer because I fudged with just one strap at the front. Yeah, that ain't happenin' again. |
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Took the tractor into town to till up a garden for some friends and got to try out my new chains. I've been picking up 3/8" Gr.70 chains with hooks at Menards when they have their 11% off sales. Front, chain through the weight mount bracket. http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/20170423_100930_zpstnyuhla6.jpg Rear, chains hooked to axle straps, crossed and tightened with ratcheting binders. http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/20170423_100946_zpsqp84grzr.jpg Then I set the tiller down on them. http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/20170423_100950_zpsn5z6fwcd.jpg It pulled easy and made the 70 mile round trip plus some running errands in town without any issues. Trailer is an 18ft PJ car hauler with 3.5k axles, it works really well for this small tractor. http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/20170423_101110_zpszko5itva.jpg View Quote I could do a whole thread just on chains. Some of what you described (the axle straps) I've never even heard of before. |
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Axle straps are if you wanna do it the D.O.T recommended way.
Since 9/10 we dont need to use the draw bar on our tractors we usually just hook up a heavy duty shackle and run a heavier chain through it......then comes that load binders.............................dont ever let one catch you right, you wont like it |
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Axle straps are if you wanna do it the D.O.T recommended way. Since 9/10 we dont need to use the draw bar on our tractors we usually just hook up a heavy duty shackle and run a heavier chain through it......then comes that load binders.............................dont ever let one catch you right, you wont like it View Quote |
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If I had a mowing business I could sort of see doing what they do. Probably would not do it.
If I am hauling anything I am playing around in east tn on twisty roads and if I am involved in a wreck I prefer my mower try to stay where it is in a low speed wreck. In a major speed wreck, yeah it is coming apart and so is the bed box in the ford and heck I bet I lose some other stuff as well and the trailer and truck might even separate if it can snap the chains. To kitties, just number em and go from there. If you use bungees on em you could number the bungy but now you have to make sure you get the bungy to the right strap. I have been known to just cut strap excess off, it was either a strap I used every time or it got damaged. I am also known to sometimes leave a strap set up but I take the excess strap and roll it up and rubber band it, so the strap stays together and about the right length but the excess can not cause me issues. The cutting comes into play when you get more straps usually. I never want anyone strapping things down for me. I strap my own loads down and I check em if I stop. Understand the guys trying to be helpful but I would have asked em to just let you redo it. I worked as a mechanic. We had females who did not want to touch stuff and we had females who dang near beat us upside the head with a cast iron skillet if they thought we were not going to follow their directions. For yours, we would have carefully pulled it out of the bay if we could not wait for you to do so and you could strap it down outside in the parking lot. |
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If I had a mowing business I could sort of see doing what they do. Probably would not do it. If I am hauling anything I am playing around in east tn on twisty roads and if I am involved in a wreck I prefer my mower try to stay where it is in a low speed wreck. In a major speed wreck, yeah it is coming apart and so is the bed box in the ford and heck I bet I lose some other stuff as well and the trailer and truck might even separate if it can snap the chains. To kitties, just number em and go from there. If you use bungees on em you could number the bungy but now you have to make sure you get the bungy to the right strap. I have been known to just cut strap excess off, it was either a strap I used every time or it got damaged. I am also known to sometimes leave a strap set up but I take the excess strap and roll it up and rubber band it, so the strap stays together and about the right length but the excess can not cause me issues. The cutting comes into play when you get more straps usually. I never want anyone strapping things down for me. I strap my own loads down and I check em if I stop. Understand the guys trying to be helpful but I would have asked em to just let you redo it. I worked as a mechanic. We had females who did not want to touch stuff and we had females who dang near beat us upside the head with a cast iron skillet if they thought we were not going to follow their directions. For yours, we would have carefully pulled it out of the bay if we could not wait for you to do so and you could strap it down outside in the parking lot. View Quote Rescue webbing or rappel rope? Yeah, I'll eff wtih a knot. Uber thin webbing? No. |
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I see the pros do it too, sadly.
I drove through the aftermath of an accident where the small 5'x8'(if even that big) utility trailer, with rails, came loose from the tow vehicle. Near as I can tell the trailer clipped an oncoming car and the small riding mower bounced out of the trailer and into the path of a motorcycle. The riders, a deputy and his wife, died. Speeds involved were 30-35mph. Machines, bodies and trailer were spread across 4 lanes. Yeah, I strap Even without the danger of losing the load. Having my 50yo, 800 lb mower bounce around on the trailer can't be good for it's longevity. In the least, wind could push the mower back a few inches, altering the tongue weight and possibly cause some unexpected trailer sway. You might try using spring clamps instead of the tarp bungees on the strap tails. Seems much faster to me than fumbling with the bungee. I'll use the bungees when storing the straps to keep them compact. If in a real hurry, grab the midpoint of the loose tail and cinch it around the tightened strap. This will leave you with a short tongue to grab and easily un-cinch later. I can post a photo if my description is lacking. |
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I see the pros do it too, sadly. I drove through the aftermath of an accident where the small 5'x8'(if even that big) utility trailer, with rails, came loose from the tow vehicle. Near as I can tell the trailer clipped an oncoming car and the small riding mower bounced out of the trailer and into the path of a motorcycle. The riders, a deputy and his wife, died. Speeds involved were 30-35mph. Machines, bodies and trailer were spread across 4 lanes. Yeah, I strap Even without the danger of losing the load. Having my 50yo, 800 lb mower bounce around on the trailer can't be good for it's longevity. In the least, wind could push the mower back a few inches, altering the tongue weight and possibly cause some unexpected trailer sway. You might try using spring clamps instead of the tarp bungees on the strap tails. Seems much faster to me than fumbling with the bungee. I'll use the bungees when storing the straps to keep them compact. If in a real hurry, grab the midpoint of the loose tail and cinch it around the tightened strap. This will leave you with a short tongue to grab and easily un-cinch later. I can post a photo if my description is lacking. View Quote My tarp bungees are to hold my straps when they're stored in the bin. One of the subtleties I still have to work on is not having those damn ends flapping. Even cinched tight, I've watched as I've gone down teh road and seen the strap vibrating an inch or two up and down or back and forth as the air moves over it (the back ones, moreso than the front ones) and I've seen them loosen from that intense vibration over an eight-mile trip. Now I pull over, if I'm going far, and adjust. I don't care if the tails flap, but the tightened straps should not effing MOVE. Sometimes it's hard to get that last click on the ratchet until the load has shifted a little. I kinda think of it as the second cinching of the saddle knot after the horse has quit puffing up his belly. |
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I actually have not been doing anything with the tails of my webbing when it is in use. My tarp bungees are to hold my straps when they're stored in the bin. One of the subtleties I still have to work on is not having those damn ends flapping. Even cinched tight, I've watched as I've gone down teh road and seen the strap vibrating an inch or two up and down or back and forth as the air moves over it (the back ones, moreso than the front ones) and I've seen them loosen from that intense vibration over an eight-mile trip. Now I pull over, if I'm going far, and adjust. I don't care if the tails flap, but the tightened straps should not effing MOVE. Sometimes it's hard to get that last click on the ratchet until the load has shifted a little. I kinda think of it as the second cinching of the saddle knot after the horse has quit puffing up his belly. View Quote You are using cheap straps. They stretch ( a LOT). They will flap due to their low strength and stretch. Solution: upgrade your straps. You are SUPPOSED to check your load after 10-15 miles. Unless you are compressing a spring (think suspension on a quad or something), everything will settle in the first X miles and require some re-tightening. One or two of those stops to tighten is usually all it takes. |
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Bump cuz I lost my welding thead..
It's a busy time of year. Don't want this one to drop to archives. |
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It was way past time for a new set of tires on the little box trailer (10+ years & showing tread wear), so I finally took care of it this week. One advantage with a small one is the built in hitch jack & a couple of jack stands is all that is needed. Drop the hitch down, place the jacks & then crank the jack until the tires clear... The same approach should work with most single axle trailers. http://www.skhowell.com/images/20170503_boxtrailer-1.jpg http://www.skhowell.com/images/20170503_boxtrailer-3.jpg The new set are upgrades over the originals being 8 ply load range D radials. Not much price difference, so figured "why not?"... One of the fender mount side markers got flakey so they were replaced last month with an LED set. A new polycarbonate vent cap comes in Monday to replace the sun-rotted original. Once that is done, the little box should be good to go for the next few years. Nick View Quote I don't even know where to position the jack should I have a flat on my trailer. And if I had a flat with a load...hells bells, I would be even more lost. I did not spend the extra $100 to get radial tires. I wanted them, but went for regular tires because hey...first trailer, spending more than I'd planned by about three times, and I figured I should put my money in what cannot be replaced easily, but... A friend asked to borrow the trailer (I said yes, reluctantly, but his trip fell through) to take furniture to a person in North Carolina. That's a long trip. I was worried about the tires on a road trip of that length because they are not radials. (friend has a lot of trailer experience. I trusted him.) Anyway, this is something I should pay attention to. You know...there is no "manual" that comes with a trailer. Just the girl behind the counter handing you the paperwork saying, "I strongly suggest you engrave your name or something on the trailer in a hidden spot where it can be identified as yours" and the like. Meanwhile I'm going and just worried about getting the damn thing home without taking out mailboxes. No longer worried about the mailboxes (much) so I should start paying attention to the rest of this. |
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Position the jack under the leaf springs where they attach to the axle.
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Your owner's manual for your vehicle should have some pics for jacking it up. Probably shows some jack points.
Would give you some ideas on what to consider for the trailer. And if you have a flat and wind up on the side of the road in a drainage ditch and what not it gets even more fun. |
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Your owner's manual for your vehicle should have some pics for jacking it up. Probably shows some jack points. Would give you some ideas on what to consider for the trailer. And if you have a flat and wind up on the side of the road in a drainage ditch and what not it gets even more fun. View Quote Ain't nuthin' like that under my trailer that I can see. |
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Your suv is body on frame from what I recall, too lazy to go look at what it is again.
If jacking the trailer, I use the beefy parts of the frame to jack on. That is all I meant. |
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Your suv is body on frame from what I recall, too lazy to go look at what it is again. If jacking the trailer, I use the beefy parts of the frame to jack on. That is all I meant. View Quote I was talking about knowing where to put teh jack under my urban assault vehicle (Grand Caravan) which has a transaxle so I ahve to be careful to not jack on the axles. I jack under the frame, axle, whatever I can get to that won't be in the way on that trooper. Yes, it is body on frame. I really have to crawl under the trailer and look around. It's been so wet and I've been so busy I just haven't done it. I'm lame, I know. |
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Regarding the trailer, the one thing you don't want to do is put a jack directly under the axle itself - especially if the trailer is loaded. Under the point where the leaf springs cross under the axle (behind the wheel) is OK, but the axle itself isn't made to handle lifting stress & can bend. You are also good if you lift under the trailer frame itself, but you have to lift farther as the springs will sag down as they are unloaded.
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Regarding the trailer, the one thing you don't want to do is put a jack directly under the axle itself - especially if the trailer is loaded. Under the point where the leaf springs cross under the axle (behind the wheel) is OK, but the axle itself isn't made to handle lifting stress & can bend. You are also good if you lift under the trailer frame itself, but you have to lift farther as the springs will sag down as they are unloaded. Nick View Quote Your advice echoes Rat's, about using the leaf springs as a guide. Your tires lasted a really long time. Did you not drive thatt much, or did you lift them when not in use? Or do you just have really good tire kharma??? |
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Probably just lucky for the most part. It would sit for quite a while between uses, generally in well shaded areas, with only a few 500 mile trips a year (NC -> WV -> NC). During the last year, however, there were a dozen or so of those trips. That's when the wear started showing on one tire in particular. I generally kept the pressures within 5 - 10lb of max inflation (except for full weight loads which got full inflation) & never less than 15 lb below max. Also, 98% of most trips was on decent 4 lane roads without significant pot hole issues.
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Kitties, I am running bias ply tires on my horse trailer that are 20 years old. They are starting to get to replacement time, but still serviceable.
Your tire choice was/is fine. |
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Kitties, side note on lever style binders, I tie a length of para-cord on mine so I can secure the lever after it is tight. It might be un-necessary but it makes me feel better to know that some unforeseen event is not going to result in one popping open ... http://www.skhowell.com/images/20170516_3038-mow-5.jpg Axle straps can also be used on a trailer rail to improvise expedient tie-down points. http://www.skhowell.com/images/20170516_3038-mow-1.jpg Nick View Quote Is that the blue strap with the rubber part? Is that rubber non-slip, so it holds to the rail? And you trust it enough to hold agains teh momentum of a hard jolt with that kind of weight? Or are you fudging? It's okay if you are. Everyone does that sometimes. That looks really secure actually. I'm just trying to get a good sense of what people do who know more than I know. You all have tools I don't know about and I'm very interested in the subtleties of how you do (and do not) use them. ALSO... Nik, will you explain that setup to me? I mean, I recognize that there is a chain there. But the red stuff....I do not recognize that. Would you be willing to walk me through your whole setup and explain each piece? That would be a wonderful bit of education. The more I see, the more I know I am a complete beginner. I would like to know more. |
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Took the tractor into town to till up a garden for some friends and got to try out my new chains. I've been picking up 3/8" Gr.70 chains with hooks at Menards when they have their 11% off sales. Front, chain through the weight mount bracket. http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/20170423_100930_zpstnyuhla6.jpg Rear, chains hooked to axle straps, crossed and tightened with ratcheting binders. http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/20170423_100946_zpsqp84grzr.jpg Then I set the tiller down on them. http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/20170423_100950_zpsn5z6fwcd.jpg It pulled easy and made the 70 mile round trip plus some running errands in town without any issues. Trailer is an 18ft PJ car hauler with 3.5k axles, it works really well for this small tractor. http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/20170423_101110_zpszko5itva.jpg View Quote NEVER CROSS CHAINS OR STRAPS. IT IS UNSAFE. |
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They can further explain things but in the pic if you look at the blue part it looks like it can not come forward anymore. If you look in the pic at the top of the bucket you will see some chain attached to the tractor there.
So what I think I am seeing is the chain in the front with the 2 blue things, one on each end, is mostly just holding the bucket down and in place. A chain the bucket is blocking is going to the tractor frame. And in back should be another chain securing the back of the tractor as well. I agree with the para cord on a lever or whatever, that way if stopped for something someone can't come by and open the lever cause they want to cause you trouble. Cut the cord and open the lever yeah. I always walk around before leaving a place I stopped, so I would see the paracord missing. |
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The blue thing is an axle strap, it is nylon webbing like a strap and has a "D" ring on each end. The black part is a sleeve over the strap that protects it from rubbing wear. They are around the square tube top rail to provide an attachment point & are snubbed from forward movement by the vertical member just forward of their position. The red thing is a "binder". It is a lever based tightening device for chain. The paracord wrap is just insurance that nothing can act on the lever to cause it to open past the binding point (which holds it closed on its own) & cause loss of tension. There is one binder between each pair of attachment points. The chain across the bucket is in addition to the two lengths already securing the tractor front. It keeps the bucket from bouncing & meets the requirement for each attachment to have a separate tie down (relevant for commercial, but not generally an issue for private hauling). A backhoe or three point equipment item would also need an additional tie down. We will just have to agree to disagree about crossing chains, it provides for better hold down with a lateral attachment than "closest point" & controls side to side as well as front to back. There is not going to be enough wear to cause any concern with transport chains. I believe it to be a standard tie down method. Crossing straps could indeed lead to premature wear if there is no protective sleeve involved. In the pic, the tractor itself was secured using four binders. Two in the front, two in the rear, using grade 70 transport chain. The chains used were long enough (20') that I could use just one in front & one in back. They were used in the same way as I would with four short chains (the grab hook ends were attached to the tractor, the binders then went between chain & tie down points with the excess chain being slack between the two binders). The tension runs from tractor attachment points to opposite side trailer attachment points, like an "X". http://www.skhowell.com/images/20170516_3038-mow-2.jpg Nick View Quote That's really handy. I doubt I need something that heavy for the light things I carry, but I can see those being incredibly useful. |
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Ohhhhh....so the binders dont' have to go on the END of a chain, but can hook into any link? That's really handy. I doubt I need something that heavy for the light things I carry, but I can see those being incredibly useful. View Quote And if you ever need to get into the world of binders, ratchet binders are the way to go. No more broken arms. |
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