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Link Posted: 4/17/2017 12:13:53 AM EDT
[#1]
Make sure they replace that hangar and u joint, even if they "look good"
Link Posted: 4/17/2017 9:51:30 AM EDT
[#2]
The whole shaft from the transfer case is getting replaced regardless. Depending on insurance we will more then likely be lining the rear back up and put back together at our shop then sending her to the body shop
Link Posted: 4/17/2017 7:32:03 PM EDT
[#3]
So insurance is gonna do the deed, we pick up a 3500 Cummins rental tomorrow, needless to say....its huge  that is infact what she said
Link Posted: 4/17/2017 10:46:37 PM EDT
[#4]
Link Posted: 4/17/2017 10:47:28 PM EDT
[#5]
Link Posted: 4/18/2017 12:42:20 AM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Okay y'all.

I've had my trailer for almost exactly a year, and...

I want a bigger trailer.      

Y'all told me it would happen.

Y'all were right.  

THANK GOD you talked me out of the teeny weeny thing I was looking at in the first post!!!!
View Quote
Get one that can haul a 7.5k pound ram cylinder

That trailers not even flexing either, we had two of those cylinders on it before for a lovely total gross weight truck and all of 2 metric fuck tons...i mean 24500
Link Posted: 4/18/2017 6:57:53 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Okay y'all.

I've had my trailer for almost exactly a year, and...

I want a bigger trailer.      

Y'all told me it would happen.

Y'all were right.  

THANK GOD you talked me out of the teeny weeny thing I was looking at in the first post!!!!
View Quote
So when are you going to upgrade then ?
Link Posted: 4/18/2017 8:32:55 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Okay y'all.

I've had my trailer for almost exactly a year, and...

I want a bigger trailer.      

Y'all told me it would happen.

Y'all were right.  

THANK GOD you talked me out of the teeny weeny thing I was looking at in the first post!!!!
View Quote
I am blessed that I work for a civil Design/build firm.  I have a little trailer but if I need a big one we have them in the yard.  And if I need a really big one we have trucks to pull them.
Link Posted: 4/19/2017 1:12:24 AM EDT
[#9]
Link Posted: 4/19/2017 1:13:09 AM EDT
[#10]
Link Posted: 4/19/2017 1:14:15 AM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 4/19/2017 11:17:44 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


You gonna come down here and bring something I can use to PULL that thing?????

View Quote
I mean right now we can't even tow it, the rental doesnt have a bed hitch

Still can move it around with the little new holland
Link Posted: 4/24/2017 11:56:25 PM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 4/25/2017 12:23:58 AM EDT
[#14]
I have 8 medium duty straps. Can't say I'd use them strapping stuff down on a big rig flat bed, but they aren't Walmart stuff.

I don't dedicate straps, but I can see the value doing that.

Here is my last haul from yesterday.Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 4/25/2017 3:17:18 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Okay so I wrote on my straps I use for my mower.

FR (Front, passenger side)

FL (front, driver's side)

RLeft (Rear, driver's side)

RRight (Rear, passenger's side)


Because that way I don't have to keep adjusting my straps.

Then it occurred to me, a few months later (duh, since I've spent many, many years handling rope and webbing that saves lives) that I might have deteriorated my (cheap, walmart) ratchet straps by writing on the webbing with sharpie.

Do y'all have certain "regular" things you haul?  And do you have straps "set" for those things?  

And if so, do you mark your straps?  And if so, how?

I kinda don't care about THESE lame-ass straps, cuz I hate them (okay I do sorta care, since uxb has to go back to school and we will now be poor again for the next year and a half) but I WILL care if I buy better straps.
View Quote
No I don't have dedicated straps except on a small mower trailer we made set cable straps for the front attach then back up until tight then strap each rear side works good for a lawnmower or something you frequently load and unload
Link Posted: 4/25/2017 6:57:55 PM EDT
[#16]
Write on the ratchet part if it will hold the mark or get some paint or zip tie a piece of cloth to the hook part and write on the cloth.

I undo my ratchets and put em away if I unload the trailer.  By undo I mean I pull it apart so one hand is holding the ratchet and its short piece of strap with a hook, and the other hand is holding the other long piece of strap with a hook.  The ratchet gets closed and usually not even rubber banded.  The long piece gets rolled up and rubber banded.  And into the bag of straps they go.

If loading something and going somewhere, sure the straps need set.  It is not hard to do on the straps I bought.  When I arrive I leave the straps on the trailer deck,out of the way of the mower in this example but each in their corner so it is easy to put em back on.  When I get home I unload and part of me checking out my straps is taking em apart.  Rolling the long end up makes me examine the material for any weak areas or damage.

I have a lot of ratchets.  I could see if I had a mowing business setting things up permanent but I don't haul often enough I have an issue with looking things over. 

If I don't pull the ratchet straps apart and store em as I explained above I have have a big tangle of mess to undo in order to use em next time.

Generally anywhere I go I can trust my stuff to sit and not be stolen. 
Link Posted: 4/25/2017 9:21:43 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Write on the ratchet part if it will hold the mark or get some paint or zip tie a piece of cloth to the hook part and write on the cloth.

I undo my ratchets and put em away if I unload the trailer.  By undo I mean I pull it apart so one hand is holding the ratchet and its short piece of strap with a hook, and the other hand is holding the other long piece of strap with a hook.  The ratchet gets closed and usually not even rubber banded.  The long piece gets rolled up and rubber banded.  And into the bag of straps they go.

If loading something and going somewhere, sure the straps need set.  It is not hard to do on the straps I bought.  When I arrive I leave the straps on the trailer deck,out of the way of the mower in this example but each in their corner so it is easy to put em back on.  When I get home I unload and part of me checking out my straps is taking em apart.  Rolling the long end up makes me examine the material for any weak areas or damage.

I have a lot of ratchets.  I could see if I had a mowing business setting things up permanent but I don't haul often enough I have an issue with looking things over. 

If I don't pull the ratchet straps apart and store em as I explained above I have have a big tangle of mess to undo in order to use em next time.

Generally anywhere I go I can trust my stuff to sit and not be stolen. 
View Quote
look at what mowing business use..... they have trailers with sides and never tie down equipment at least every one I have worked for never tie down equipment
Link Posted: 4/25/2017 10:07:52 PM EDT
[#18]
Took the tractor into town to till up a garden for some friends and got to try out my new chains.   I've been picking up 3/8" Gr.70 chains with hooks at Menards when they have their 11% off sales.

Front,  chain through the weight mount bracket.



Rear, chains hooked to axle straps,  crossed and tightened with ratcheting binders.



Then I set the tiller down on them.



It pulled easy and made the 70 mile round trip plus some running errands in town without any issues.  Trailer is an 18ft PJ car hauler with 3.5k axles, it works really well for this small tractor.

Link Posted: 4/25/2017 10:54:17 PM EDT
[#19]
Link Posted: 4/25/2017 10:58:05 PM EDT
[#20]
Link Posted: 4/25/2017 11:00:03 PM EDT
[#21]
Link Posted: 4/25/2017 11:34:05 PM EDT
[#22]
Axle straps are if you wanna do it the D.O.T recommended way.

Since 9/10 we dont need to use the draw bar on our tractors we usually just hook up a heavy duty shackle and run a heavier chain through it......then comes that load binders.............................dont ever let one catch you right, you wont like it
Link Posted: 4/25/2017 11:59:16 PM EDT
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Axle straps are if you wanna do it the D.O.T recommended way.

Since 9/10 we dont need to use the draw bar on our tractors we usually just hook up a heavy duty shackle and run a heavier chain through it......then comes that load binders.............................dont ever let one catch you right, you wont like it
View Quote
Ratchet binders 
Link Posted: 4/26/2017 1:28:48 AM EDT
[#24]
If I had a mowing business I could sort of see doing what they do.  Probably would not do it.

If I am hauling anything I am playing around in east tn on twisty roads and if I am involved in a wreck I prefer my mower try to stay where it is in a low speed wreck.

In a major speed wreck, yeah it is coming apart and so is the bed box in the ford and heck I bet I lose some other stuff as well and the trailer and truck might even separate if it can snap the chains.

To kitties, just number em and go from there.  If you use bungees on em you could number the bungy but now you have to make sure you get the bungy to the right strap.

I have been known to just cut strap excess off, it was either a strap I used every time or it got damaged.  I am also known to sometimes leave a strap set up but I take the excess strap and roll it up and rubber band it, so the strap stays together and about the right length but the excess can not cause me issues.  The cutting comes into play when you get more straps usually.

I never want anyone strapping things down for me.  I strap my own loads down and I check em if I stop.  Understand the guys trying to be helpful but I would have asked em to just let you redo it.  I worked as a mechanic.  We had females who did not want to touch stuff and we had females who dang near beat us upside the head with a cast iron skillet if they thought we were not going to follow their directions.  For yours, we would have carefully pulled it out of the bay if we could not wait for you to do so and you could strap it down outside in the parking lot. 
Link Posted: 4/26/2017 9:20:52 AM EDT
[#25]
Link Posted: 4/27/2017 12:52:34 AM EDT
[#26]
I see the pros do it too, sadly.

I drove through the aftermath of an accident where the small 5'x8'(if even that big) utility trailer, with rails, came loose from the tow vehicle.  Near as I can tell the trailer clipped an oncoming car and the small riding mower bounced out of the trailer and into the path of a motorcycle.  The riders, a deputy and his wife, died.  

Speeds involved were 30-35mph.  Machines, bodies and trailer were spread across 4 lanes.    

Yeah, I strap my mower everything down if I'm headed around the block.  It's a pain, but shit happens.  Loads falling onto the roadway are not a rare occurrence, nor are the injuries.  

Even without the danger of losing the load.  Having my 50yo, 800 lb mower bounce around on the trailer can't be good for it's longevity.

In the least, wind could push the mower back a few inches, altering the tongue weight and possibly cause some unexpected trailer sway.  

You might try using spring clamps instead of the tarp bungees on the strap tails.  Seems much faster to me than fumbling with the bungee.  I'll use the bungees when storing the straps to keep them compact.  

If in a real hurry, grab the midpoint of the loose tail and cinch it around the tightened strap.  This will leave you with a short tongue to grab and easily un-cinch later.  I can post a photo if my description is lacking.
Link Posted: 4/27/2017 11:25:42 AM EDT
[#27]
Link Posted: 4/27/2017 1:55:36 PM EDT
[#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


I actually have not been doing anything with the tails of my webbing when it is in use.

My tarp bungees are to hold my straps when they're stored in the bin.

One of the subtleties I still have to work on is not having those damn ends flapping.

Even cinched tight, I've  watched as I've gone down teh road and seen the strap vibrating an inch or two up and down or back and forth as the air moves over it (the back ones, moreso than the front ones) and I've seen them loosen from that intense vibration over an eight-mile trip.  Now I pull over, if I'm going far, and adjust.  I don't care if the tails flap, but the tightened straps should not effing MOVE.  Sometimes it's hard to get that last click on the ratchet until the load has shifted a little.
I kinda think of it as the second cinching of the saddle knot after the horse has quit puffing up his belly.  
View Quote
Couple thoughts on that:

You are using cheap straps. They stretch ( a LOT). They will flap due to their low strength and stretch. Solution: upgrade your straps.

You are SUPPOSED to check your load after 10-15 miles. Unless you are compressing a spring (think suspension on a quad or something), everything will settle in the first X miles and require some re-tightening. One or two of those stops to tighten is usually all it takes.
Link Posted: 4/30/2017 11:30:49 PM EDT
[#29]
Update on the tow pig, thought insurance was gonna do the deed.....long story short the rears out from under it and waiting to get the new pinion gear in which was all that was broken inside the rear axle
Link Posted: 5/4/2017 12:12:41 AM EDT
[#30]
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 10:17:56 PM EDT
[#31]
It was way past time for a new set of tires on the little box trailer (10+ years & showing tread wear), so I finally took care of it this week.

One advantage with a small one is the built in hitch jack & a couple of jack stands is all that is needed. Drop the hitch down, place the jacks & then crank the jack until the tires clear...

The same approach should work with most single axle trailers.





The new set are upgrades over the originals being 8 ply load range D radials. Not much price difference, so figured "why not?"...

One of the fender mount side markers got flakey so they were replaced last month with an LED set. A new polycarbonate vent cap comes in Monday to replace the sun-rotted original.  Once that is done, the little box should be good to go for the next few years.

Nick
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 10:42:06 PM EDT
[#32]
Link Posted: 5/6/2017 12:12:47 AM EDT
[#33]
Position the jack under the leaf springs where they attach to the axle.
Link Posted: 5/6/2017 12:29:26 AM EDT
[#34]
Link Posted: 5/6/2017 1:03:47 PM EDT
[#35]
Your owner's manual for your vehicle should have some pics for jacking it up.  Probably shows some jack points.

Would give you some ideas on what to consider for the trailer.

And if you have a flat and wind up on the side of the road in a drainage ditch and what not it gets even more fun.
Link Posted: 5/6/2017 1:15:45 PM EDT
[#36]
Link Posted: 5/6/2017 3:32:54 PM EDT
[#37]
Your suv is body on frame from what I recall, too lazy to go look at what it is again.

If jacking the trailer, I use the beefy parts of the frame to jack on.

That is all I meant.
Link Posted: 5/6/2017 4:33:05 PM EDT
[#38]
Link Posted: 5/6/2017 7:41:11 PM EDT
[#39]
Regarding the trailer, the one thing you don't want to do is put a jack directly under the axle itself - especially if the trailer is loaded.  Under the point where the leaf springs cross under the axle (behind the wheel) is OK, but the axle itself isn't made to handle lifting stress & can bend.   You are also good if you lift under the trailer frame itself, but you have to lift farther as the springs will sag down as they are unloaded.

Nick
Link Posted: 5/6/2017 9:06:21 PM EDT
[#40]
Link Posted: 5/6/2017 10:36:24 PM EDT
[#41]
Probably just lucky for the most part.  It would sit for quite a while between uses, generally in well shaded areas, with only a few 500 mile trips a year (NC -> WV -> NC). During the last year, however, there were a dozen or so of those trips.  That's when the wear started showing on one tire in particular.  I generally kept the pressures within 5 - 10lb of max inflation (except for full weight loads which got full inflation) & never less than 15 lb below max.   Also, 98% of most trips was on decent 4 lane roads without significant pot hole issues.  

Nick
Link Posted: 5/7/2017 12:10:57 AM EDT
[#42]
Kitties, I am running bias ply tires on my horse trailer that are 20 years old. They are starting to get to replacement time, but still serviceable.

Your tire choice was/is fine.
Link Posted: 5/16/2017 11:14:04 PM EDT
[#43]
Kitties,  side note on lever style binders,  I tie a length of para-cord on mine so I can secure the lever after it is tight.  It might be un-necessary but it makes me feel better to know that some unforeseen event is not going to result in one popping open ...



Axle straps can also be used on a trailer rail to improvise expedient tie-down points.




Nick
Link Posted: 5/16/2017 11:18:05 PM EDT
[#44]
Link Posted: 5/16/2017 11:36:02 PM EDT
[#45]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Took the tractor into town to till up a garden for some friends and got to try out my new chains.   I've been picking up 3/8" Gr.70 chains with hooks at Menards when they have their 11% off sales.

Front,  chain through the weight mount bracket.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/20170423_100930_zpstnyuhla6.jpg

Rear, chains hooked to axle straps,  crossed and tightened with ratcheting binders.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/20170423_100946_zpsqp84grzr.jpg

Then I set the tiller down on them.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/20170423_100950_zpsn5z6fwcd.jpg

It pulled easy and made the 70 mile round trip plus some running errands in town without any issues.  Trailer is an 18ft PJ car hauler with 3.5k axles, it works really well for this small tractor.

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac250/mh2742/20170423_101110_zpszko5itva.jpg
View Quote


NEVER CROSS CHAINS OR STRAPS.  IT IS UNSAFE.
Link Posted: 5/17/2017 12:20:41 AM EDT
[#46]
Link Posted: 5/17/2017 1:20:05 AM EDT
[#47]
They can further explain things but in the pic if you look at the blue part it looks like it can not come forward anymore.  If you look in the pic at the top of the bucket you will see some chain attached to the tractor there.

So what I think I am seeing is the chain in the front with the 2 blue things, one on each end, is mostly just holding the bucket down and in place.

A chain the bucket is blocking is going to the tractor frame.

And in back should be another chain securing the back of the tractor as well.

I agree with the para cord on a lever or whatever, that way if stopped for something someone can't come by and open the lever cause they want to cause you trouble.  Cut the cord and open the lever yeah.

I always walk around before leaving a place I stopped, so I would see the paracord missing.
Link Posted: 5/17/2017 10:10:07 AM EDT
[#48]
The blue thing is an axle strap, it is nylon webbing like a strap and has a "D" ring on each end.  The black part is a sleeve over the strap that protects it from rubbing wear.  They are around the square tube top rail to provide an attachment point & are snubbed from forward movement by the vertical member just forward of their position.  The red thing is a "binder".  It is a lever based tightening device for chain.  The paracord wrap is just insurance that nothing can act on the lever to cause it to open past the binding point (which holds it closed on its own) & cause loss of tension.  There is one binder between each pair of attachment points.   The chain across the bucket is in addition to the two lengths already securing the tractor front.  It keeps the bucket from bouncing & meets the requirement for each attachment to have a separate tie down (relevant for commercial, but not generally an issue for private hauling).  A backhoe or three point equipment item would also need an additional tie down.

We will just have to agree to disagree about crossing chains, it provides for better hold down with a lateral attachment than "closest point" & controls side to side as well as front to back.  There is not going to be enough wear to cause any concern with transport chains. I believe it to be a standard tie down method.  Crossing straps could indeed lead to premature wear if there is no protective sleeve involved.

In the pic, the tractor itself was secured using four binders.  Two in the front, two in the rear, using grade 70 transport chain.  The chains used were long enough (20') that I could use just one in front & one in back.  They were used in the same way as I would with four short chains (the grab hook ends were attached to the tractor, the binders then went between chain & tie down points with the excess chain being slack between the two binders). The tension runs from tractor attachment points to opposite side trailer attachment points, like an "X".  



Nick
Link Posted: 5/17/2017 11:45:31 AM EDT
[#49]
Link Posted: 5/17/2017 3:33:07 PM EDT
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Ohhhhh....so the binders dont' have to go on the END of a chain, but can hook into any link?

That's really handy.

I doubt I need something that heavy for the light things I carry, but I can see those being incredibly useful.
View Quote
Binders are heavy equipment things, you won't need them. Upgrade your straps if you are concerned for your loads. 

And if you ever need to get into the world of binders, ratchet binders are the way to go. No more broken arms.
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