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Posted: 3/14/2016 5:14:07 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
To ensure that what I'm reading is reasonable, what do the wiring connectors look like on newer trailers? Is it still a flat 4? Or flat 5? Or is it something else now? There are a number of things hanging from the back end of the SUV I'm going to use for towing. None of them look like they're going to be viable, even once I understand what they are (they look like they've been cut through, nearly). So I may end up rewiring. Any advice for what to do/not to do? Can we get a pic? You could need a flat 4, 5 or a round 7 bladed connector. I think little campers used a round 6 or 7 pin with round pins instead of blades. I'd wire for a 7blade and use an adapter for the trailer. You can purchase a socket with both 4 and 7 and skip the adaptor. If you are sure you will never use another trailer, wire for what the trailer has. Some manufactures put a 7blade on everything even if they will not be installing brakes. Others save a few bucks by using the minimum needed for that model. If the wires are cut on your car, pick up a wiring schematic. Otherwise http://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=wiring+kit&furl=-pg-Custom_Fit_Vehicle_Wiring There should be a plug and play option for you. From what I understand, even with the 7blade, you may need to rewire between different trailers depending on what the AUX/Backup pin is used for. If your trailer does not have back up lights you probably will not need to worry about how the 7blade is wired. For a utility trailer, you are probably only using 4 of the 7 blades anyway. I re-wired mine with some heavy cable, a switch, solenoid and 130amp breaker to run a winch. I'll eventually(probably never, too lazy) add a dedicated cable and connector for the winch. I added a switch to the 12V pin so I can cut the power to my wireless brake controller from inside the cab. |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 11:08:24 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Most small trailers are 4 flat. That said I have a T-supply trailer 5x8 I believe and it works fine. Its all painted steel so you do have to deal with the corrosion factor. If you want aluminum be prepared to pay double. We live in the rust belt with extensive salt use and I use my trailer in the winter. It will be good for 5 years before you have to start taking a wire brush and paint to it. I am going to try to do mine every other year from here on out so its not such a huge project. Once the fenders start to rust out you can get plastic fenders for not to much. A few bolts will hold them on and no more rust. I use a cheap folding jack attached to the tongue. My lights started giving me issues once the trailer was 5+ years old so I bought a LED kit for not to much and they have worked great for the last two years. A wire brush and black spray paint go a long ways and keep things looking OK. I tow with my Jeep Patriot so nothing to crazy but it has hauled everything from snowmobiles to UTVs to firewood. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n52/thederrick106/new%20jeep/100_2022.jpg <snip> Most of the big box store trailers don't have grease fittings for the bearings, its the packable kind which is just so~so in my opinion. <snip> As far as wiring goes I would have some one who knows vehicle electrical take a look. I have done much with many vehicles electrical and lightly systems and if you know what your looking at you can clean it up and make it work in no time at all. Think simple. Figure out what type of tail light system your vehicle has. Then figure out if it comes with factory powered trailer lights.. Once you have that down you can determine what needs to go or re-done. Take some pictures, I am sure some of us on here can tell you what needs to go, is good to go, or needs to be replaced. Okay I will see if I can get some photos. The grease fittings...that's one thing I would like to be sure I get. I'm not gonna take the thing apart to pack bearings. I mean...I COULD, but I know me. I don't have time for high-maintenance, unfortunately, so I need to minimize anything I can that will require me to spend time to keep my trailer from getting damaged. It's just the unfortunate reality. :0/ All this said...I'm really struggling with this trailer width thing. The better manufacturers do not make the size I want. I really hate to end up with the low quality for pretty much the same money I could get better quality. But with a five-foot wide tow vehicle, I'm struggling with the idea of a 7.5' wide trailer (that's wheels and all.) |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 11:11:15 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can we get a pic? You could need a flat 4, 5 or a round 7 bladed connector. I think little campers used a round 6 or 7 pin with round pins instead of blades. I'd wire for a 7blade and use an adapter for the trailer. You can purchase a socket with both 4 and 7 and skip the adaptor. If you are sure you will never use another trailer, wire for what the trailer has. Some manufactures put a 7blade on everything even if they will not be installing brakes. Others save a few bucks by using the minimum needed for that model. If the wires are cut on your car, pick up a wiring schematic. Otherwise http://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=wiring+kit&furl=-pg-Custom_Fit_Vehicle_Wiring There should be a plug and play option for you. From what I understand, even with the 7blade, you may need to rewire between different trailers depending on what the AUX/Backup pin is used for. If your trailer does not have back up lights you probably will not need to worry about how the 7blade is wired. For a utility trailer, you are probably only using 4 of the 7 blades anyway. I re-wired mine with some heavy cable, a switch, solenoid and 130amp breaker to run a winch. I'll eventually(probably never, too lazy) add a dedicated cable and connector for the winch. I added a switch to the 12V pin so I can cut the power to my wireless brake controller from inside the cab. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
To ensure that what I'm reading is reasonable, what do the wiring connectors look like on newer trailers? Is it still a flat 4? Or flat 5? Or is it something else now? There are a number of things hanging from the back end of the SUV I'm going to use for towing. None of them look like they're going to be viable, even once I understand what they are (they look like they've been cut through, nearly). So I may end up rewiring. Any advice for what to do/not to do? Can we get a pic? You could need a flat 4, 5 or a round 7 bladed connector. I think little campers used a round 6 or 7 pin with round pins instead of blades. I'd wire for a 7blade and use an adapter for the trailer. You can purchase a socket with both 4 and 7 and skip the adaptor. If you are sure you will never use another trailer, wire for what the trailer has. Some manufactures put a 7blade on everything even if they will not be installing brakes. Others save a few bucks by using the minimum needed for that model. If the wires are cut on your car, pick up a wiring schematic. Otherwise http://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=wiring+kit&furl=-pg-Custom_Fit_Vehicle_Wiring There should be a plug and play option for you. From what I understand, even with the 7blade, you may need to rewire between different trailers depending on what the AUX/Backup pin is used for. If your trailer does not have back up lights you probably will not need to worry about how the 7blade is wired. For a utility trailer, you are probably only using 4 of the 7 blades anyway. I re-wired mine with some heavy cable, a switch, solenoid and 130amp breaker to run a winch. I'll eventually(probably never, too lazy) add a dedicated cable and connector for the winch. I added a switch to the 12V pin so I can cut the power to my wireless brake controller from inside the cab. Okay I will check this out. Thank you. Gotta do some more reading, and visit another trailer dealer this week, if he'll call me back. It's a local manufacturer and I don't want to buy before I visit his lot. |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 12:12:17 PM EDT
[#4]
I hauled grain for 9 years, and learned a couple things about trailer wiring that gets exposed to road salt and whatnot, which is potentially worse than a trailer that simply sits around most of the time. I've learned that heat shrink connectors don't work all that well. If you can get ahold of GM Weather Pack type connectors, they do work well. But if you can't, pumping connections full of and covering them completely with black silicone when they're fresh does go a long way in keeping corrosion out. This is what I ended up doing to my pigtail socket, which is in the header board of the trailer above the 5th wheel, where alot of road grime gathers. It saved me from changing the #@%& thing out twice a year to rarely having to change it out. Some WD-40 sprayed on the outside periodically also helped.
After a few years, the insulation in the wiring will get hard and brittle, so you'll end up rewiring it. But on something like that, it's pretty easy. Also, hold off on upgrading to the LED lights posted above until you find out whether you have a tendency to break the housings, or not. On my car trailer, they get broken regularly. It's just the nature of the beast, so I just buy whatever is the cheapest. |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 12:35:13 PM EDT
[#5]
Toasted wiring on the tow vehicle.
I'm guessing this came from the factory, but maybe not. Some random shots of what's back there amid the rust...  (I actually have to take this to somebody and let them tell me this frame/towing mechanism is structurally sound before I go on the road with a trailer. It's probably ridiculous, but it'll make me feel better.)
This would be the flat four (four flat?), right? 
With bonus!--No extra charge for spider webs! 
I guess the former owner towed a little RV at some point...this was hanging from some decrepit electrical tape wrapped around the tow structure. (Sorry for the blur. It started raining on me again.) 
Oh and there's a random naked wire just hanging out back there. 
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Posted: 3/14/2016 12:38:48 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I hauled grain for 9 years, and learned a couple things about trailer wiring that gets exposed to road salt and whatnot, which is potentially worse than a trailer that simply sits around most of the time. I've learned that heat shrink connectors don't work all that well. If you can get ahold of GM Weather Pack type connectors, they do work well. But if you can't, pumping connections full of and covering them completely with black silicone when they're fresh does go a long way in keeping corrosion out. This is what I ended up doing to my pigtail socket, which is in the header board of the trailer above the 5th wheel, where alot of road grime gathers. It saved me from changing the #@%& thing out twice a year to rarely having to change it out. Some WD-40 sprayed on the outside periodically also helped. After a few years, the insulation in the wiring will get hard and brittle, so you'll end up rewiring it. But on something like that, it's pretty easy. Also, hold off on upgrading to the LED lights posted above until you find out whether you have a tendency to break the housings, or not. On my car trailer, they get broken regularly. It's just the nature of the beast, so I just buy whatever is the cheapest. Okay. good thoughts. Thank you. I'm guessing I have as good a chance as anybody of getting fancy GM connectors, so I will look when the time comes. I'm hoping I won't be overly rough on the trailer, but I'm not going to baby it, so I'll have to see how I use it before I know how careless I get when I'm tired and just wanna get done.
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Posted: 3/14/2016 2:43:40 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Toasted wiring on the tow vehicle. I'm guessing this came from the factory, but maybe not. Some random shots of what's back there amid the rust... (I actually have to take this to somebody and let them tell me this frame/towing mechanism is structurally sound before I go on the road with a trailer. It's probably ridiculous, but it'll make me feel better.)
This would be the flat four (four flat?), right? http://www.fototime.com/C019401F5142965/standard.jpg With bonus!--No extra charge for spider webs! http://www.fototime.com/8584C33BAF4469A/standard.jpg I guess the former owner towed a little RV at some point...this was hanging from some decrepit electrical tape wrapped around the tow structure. (Sorry for the blur. It started raining on me again.) http://www.fototime.com/D4F5EAA881DDACE/standard.jpg Oh and there's a random naked wire just hanging out back there. http://www.fototime.com/B2642A0B514A96F/standard.jpg Yep flat four. Looks like you got a mess on your hands for sure. With the secondary trailer connection and all, don't know why splice connectors were used when they could have just used butt connectors, or done it properly and soldered the wires together. That white wire about your finger in the spiderweb pic looks pretty bad. That is the ground wire. The other white wire hanging, is likely from the six pin connector. Still a ground and will likely still work. |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 5:04:07 PM EDT
[#8]
That block above the white wire is your wiring adapter/diode whatever they call it. That etrailer link I posted earlier will have a replacement for that, possibly with factory connectors (Walmart and TSC may have it as well although less variety). That would simply plug into your tail light harness. Easy!
If not sold with factory connectors, you can simply splice into the harness like it is now. Once it's all cleaned and spliced, 3M makes a gooey black tape product for wrapping and sealing wires. I wrap solderless connectors joints with quality black tape and place heat shrink tubing over that. YMMV It almost looks like the flat 4 would work now, maybe reattach the ground. I'd snip that 6pin off where it taps into the rest. Do you have a multimeter handy? Or get a purpose built tester |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 5:25:53 PM EDT
[#9]
Some safety glasses and a screwdriver or small prybar or something would let you see how the hitch and frame are going. Parts that are seriously rusty are what you want to figure out how thin the metal is. Should have some not so rusty parts to compare it to nearby.
A multi meter will let you see if that 4 way works or get another one. Some searches will turn up better connectors and what not, if wondering about your specific vehicle run a search on it and find some boards where they modify your vehicle. I would check the brakes out and steering out as well as the frame and hitch. I have seen a hitch get pulled off a vehicle, fella loaded his quad really rough every time and luckily for him one rough loading had the hitch pull loose from the frame. Not going down the road or anything else. Never really seen a hitch rust out, seen one so sad it was not worth cutting off in the junkyard to put on another vehicle but that was cause there was another one on down the row a bit. Heck, see how old the tire date on the tires is and check em for any dry rot, cracks, on em. I had some tires on a dually that looked perfect from the outside, but on the inside they split the outer rubber carcass and while they still held air it was amazing to me that they did that. New tires all around for that one. I plan to set up my jeep with a 7 pin hookup cause I want to get a trailer with brakes and use the jeep for moving it around, like parking it and what not. Right now it has a really simple to install 4 pin made specifically for it. I had to unplug the wires that run the rear brakes and plug an adapter in and plug what I unplugged back into the adapter. Did the exact same on my 1995 ford, jeep is an 06 model. If they make something like this you will have automotive type connectors and the easiest install ever. 7 pin will take a bit more since it will need a brake controller as well. |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 5:42:18 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Some safety glasses and a screwdriver or small prybar or something would let you see how the hitch and frame are going. Parts that are seriously rusty are what you want to figure out how thin the metal is. Should have some not so rusty parts to compare it to nearby. Yeah...It's just been raining and muddy and I'm stalling about crawling under there. I don't mind working under the hood but I really dislike being under cars. Always been that way. 
A multi meter will let you see if that 4 way works or get another one. Some searches will turn up better connectors and what not, if wondering about your specific vehicle run a search on it and find some boards where they modify your vehicle. We have a multimeter and I will pull it out and check. I just know that this trailer wiring (and all the other wiring) is 25 years old, it's been abused and neglected, and chances are extremely good that it's not going to work. If I a) get the vehicle going and know it's solid) and b)can figure out how it works (somebody posted a video for me and I need to watch it) I will just pay the money and get a new one and replace it. That way I know it's not going to quit a few miles down the road. I would check the brakes out and steering out as well as the frame and hitch. I have seen a hitch get pulled off a vehicle, fella loaded his quad really rough every time and luckily for him one rough loading had the hitch pull loose from the frame. Not going down the road or anything else. Yeah, the brakes are not great. They work, but they're going to need the wheels pulled and the mechanisms checked. First though, oil change and I need to check the grease in the transmission and transfer case. Never really seen a hitch rust out, seen one so sad it was not worth cutting off in the junkyard to put on another vehicle but that was cause there was another one on down the row a bit. That's my gut feeling...that it's just nasty looking but that there's solid metal under there. That's a fairly significantly thick piece of metal to rust through, but I figure it pays to look. Heck, see how old the tire date on the tires is and check em for any dry rot, cracks, on em. I had some tires on a dually that looked perfect from the outside, but on the inside they split the outer rubber carcass and while they still held air it was amazing to me that they did that. New tires all around for that one. The tires are crap. They're still holding air, but they're dry rotted. That's a chunk of change I'm going to have to drop. Those are big tires.  And what sux is that I have a tough time changing them if I get a flat, because although I can technically lift the wheel, I can only muscle it around. I can't really lift it with enough finesse to get it lined up and slide it onto the lugs. 
I plan to set up my jeep with a 7 pin hookup cause I want to get a trailer with brakes and use the jeep for moving it around, like parking it and what not. Right now it has a really simple to install 4 pin made specifically for it. I had to unplug the wires that run the rear brakes and plug an adapter in and plug what I unplugged back into the adapter. Did the exact same on my 1995 ford, jeep is an 06 model. If they make something like this you will have automotive type connectors and the easiest install ever. 7 pin will take a bit more since it will need a brake controller as well. I went to look at more trailers today and forgot to look at the connectors because my frustration level was so high. 
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Posted: 3/14/2016 5:49:19 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That block above the white wire is your wiring adapter/diode whatever they call it. That etrailer link I posted earlier will have a replacement for that, possibly with factory connectors (Walmart and TSC may have it as well although less variety). That would simply plug into your tail light harness. Easy! If not sold with factory connectors, you can simply splice into the harness like it is now. Once it's all cleaned and spliced, 3M makes a gooey black tape product for wrapping and sealing wires. I wrap solderless connectors joints with quality black tape and place heat shrink tubing over that. YMMV It almost looks like the flat 4 would work now, maybe reattach the ground. I'd snip that 6pin off where it taps into the rest. Do you have a multimeter handy? Or get a purpose built tester Yes, we do have a multimeter. I'll have to find it, I've got to go back through the thread adn check all the links people have posted and watch videos other people have sent me as well. I need it to quit rainin' and dry up a little, dang it. Think I'm going to haul the battery in to Advance tonight and let them tell me it's actually toast, instead of me just guessing it's actually toast. There will go another $100. The receipts are starting to stack up.
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Posted: 3/14/2016 6:00:12 PM EDT
[#12]
Put an RV socket on the tow vehicle. You can buy adapters from that to any other type of plug. For the wiring, you can buy a T harness if you aren't up to doing it the hard way. The T harness just plugs into the factory wiring behind the tail lights.
What is the tow vehicle? ETA...The RV plugs not only will carry any circuits you may need in the future (7 pins), but also seem to be the most durable as far as corrosion and wear are concerned. |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 10:23:20 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Put an RV socket on the tow vehicle. You can buy adapters from that to any other type of plug. For the wiring, you can buy a T harness if you aren't up to doing it the hard way. The T harness just plugs into the factory wiring behind the tail lights. What is the tow vehicle? ETA...The RV plugs not only will carry any circuits you may need in the future (7 pins), but also seem to be the most durable as far as corrosion and wear are concerned. I can certainly say that the RV socket that's on there now has held up much better than the factory-installed (I assume) flat four. The wires to it? Not so much. But the connector itself is in amazingly good shape. It's made of some kind of heavyweight metal. |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 10:23:20 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay. good thoughts. Thank you. I'm guessing I have as good a chance as anybody of getting fancy GM connectors, so I will look when the time comes. I'm hoping I won't be overly rough on the trailer, but I'm not going to baby it, so I'll have to see how I use it before I know how careless I get when I'm tired and just wanna get done. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I hauled grain for 9 years, and learned a couple things about trailer wiring that gets exposed to road salt and whatnot, which is potentially worse than a trailer that simply sits around most of the time. I've learned that heat shrink connectors don't work all that well. If you can get ahold of GM Weather Pack type connectors, they do work well. But if you can't, pumping connections full of and covering them completely with black silicone when they're fresh does go a long way in keeping corrosion out. This is what I ended up doing to my pigtail socket, which is in the header board of the trailer above the 5th wheel, where alot of road grime gathers. It saved me from changing the #@%& thing out twice a year to rarely having to change it out. Some WD-40 sprayed on the outside periodically also helped. After a few years, the insulation in the wiring will get hard and brittle, so you'll end up rewiring it. But on something like that, it's pretty easy. Also, hold off on upgrading to the LED lights posted above until you find out whether you have a tendency to break the housings, or not. On my car trailer, they get broken regularly. It's just the nature of the beast, so I just buy whatever is the cheapest. Okay. good thoughts. Thank you. I'm guessing I have as good a chance as anybody of getting fancy GM connectors, so I will look when the time comes. I'm hoping I won't be overly rough on the trailer, but I'm not going to baby it, so I'll have to see how I use it before I know how careless I get when I'm tired and just wanna get done. Hopkins makes direct fit harnesses. http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle-wiring-harnesses/?p=all And the parts store I worked in did carry some weather pack connectors, but they were for specific applications, such as a headlight harness. But a variety of weather pack stuff can be found online, you just have to search for what you want. |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 10:29:46 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hopkins makes direct fit harnesses. http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle-wiring-harnesses/?p=all And the parts store I worked in did carry some weather pack connectors, but they were for specific applications, such as a headlight harness. But a variety of weather pack stuff can be found online, you just have to search for what you want. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I hauled grain for 9 years, and learned a couple things about trailer wiring that gets exposed to road salt and whatnot, which is potentially worse than a trailer that simply sits around most of the time. I've learned that heat shrink connectors don't work all that well. If you can get ahold of GM Weather Pack type connectors, they do work well. But if you can't, pumping connections full of and covering them completely with black silicone when they're fresh does go a long way in keeping corrosion out. This is what I ended up doing to my pigtail socket, which is in the header board of the trailer above the 5th wheel, where alot of road grime gathers. It saved me from changing the #@%& thing out twice a year to rarely having to change it out. Some WD-40 sprayed on the outside periodically also helped. After a few years, the insulation in the wiring will get hard and brittle, so you'll end up rewiring it. But on something like that, it's pretty easy. Also, hold off on upgrading to the LED lights posted above until you find out whether you have a tendency to break the housings, or not. On my car trailer, they get broken regularly. It's just the nature of the beast, so I just buy whatever is the cheapest. Okay. good thoughts. Thank you. I'm guessing I have as good a chance as anybody of getting fancy GM connectors, so I will look when the time comes. I'm hoping I won't be overly rough on the trailer, but I'm not going to baby it, so I'll have to see how I use it before I know how careless I get when I'm tired and just wanna get done. Hopkins makes direct fit harnesses. http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle-wiring-harnesses/?p=all And the parts store I worked in did carry some weather pack connectors, but they were for specific applications, such as a headlight harness. But a variety of weather pack stuff can be found online, you just have to search for what you want. Just looked at the link! Thanks! |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 10:41:30 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hopkins makes direct fit harnesses. http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle-wiring-harnesses/?p=all And the parts store I worked in did carry some weather pack connectors, but they were for specific applications, such as a headlight harness. But a variety of weather pack stuff can be found online, you just have to search for what you want. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I hauled grain for 9 years, and learned a couple things about trailer wiring that gets exposed to road salt and whatnot, which is potentially worse than a trailer that simply sits around most of the time. I've learned that heat shrink connectors don't work all that well. If you can get ahold of GM Weather Pack type connectors, they do work well. But if you can't, pumping connections full of and covering them completely with black silicone when they're fresh does go a long way in keeping corrosion out. This is what I ended up doing to my pigtail socket, which is in the header board of the trailer above the 5th wheel, where alot of road grime gathers. It saved me from changing the #@%& thing out twice a year to rarely having to change it out. Some WD-40 sprayed on the outside periodically also helped. After a few years, the insulation in the wiring will get hard and brittle, so you'll end up rewiring it. But on something like that, it's pretty easy. Also, hold off on upgrading to the LED lights posted above until you find out whether you have a tendency to break the housings, or not. On my car trailer, they get broken regularly. It's just the nature of the beast, so I just buy whatever is the cheapest. Okay. good thoughts. Thank you. I'm guessing I have as good a chance as anybody of getting fancy GM connectors, so I will look when the time comes. I'm hoping I won't be overly rough on the trailer, but I'm not going to baby it, so I'll have to see how I use it before I know how careless I get when I'm tired and just wanna get done. Hopkins makes direct fit harnesses. http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/vehicle-wiring-harnesses/?p=all And the parts store I worked in did carry some weather pack connectors, but they were for specific applications, such as a headlight harness. But a variety of weather pack stuff can be found online, you just have to search for what you want. That's what I was talking about when I said "T harness". I guess if it comes with a 4 flat and that's all you'll need for now, you could just run it and upgrade to the RV plug later. I tow heavier trailers with brakes and a charging circuit most of the time. So an RV plug was a must have. Between the RV plug adapters and the 2" reciever, I can tow almost anything. Comes in handy when a buddy calls needing help. Or when I have to go pick up somebody else's trailer. |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 11:37:20 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's what I was talking about when I said "T harness". I guess if it comes with a 4 flat and that's all you'll need for now, you could just run it and upgrade to the RV plug later. I tow heavier trailers with brakes and a charging circuit most of the time. So an RV plug was a must have. Between the RV plug adapters and the 2" reciever, I can tow almost anything. Comes in handy when a buddy calls needing help. Or when I have to go pick up somebody else's trailer. Well...that is no small thing, and would be a benefit to having a decent size trailer with a hitch that will take same. I have not looked at anything with its own brakes. When wiring something like that, does a wire spliced into the brake lights activate the brakes on the trailer? |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 11:45:11 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well...that is no small thing, and would be a benefit to having a decent size trailer with a hitch that will take same. I have not looked at anything with its own brakes. When wiring something like that, does a wire spliced into the brake lights activate the brakes on the trailer? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: That's what I was talking about when I said "T harness". I guess if it comes with a 4 flat and that's all you'll need for now, you could just run it and upgrade to the RV plug later. I tow heavier trailers with brakes and a charging circuit most of the time. So an RV plug was a must have. Between the RV plug adapters and the 2" reciever, I can tow almost anything. Comes in handy when a buddy calls needing help. Or when I have to go pick up somebody else's trailer. Well...that is no small thing, and would be a benefit to having a decent size trailer with a hitch that will take same. I have not looked at anything with its own brakes. When wiring something like that, does a wire spliced into the brake lights activate the brakes on the trailer? You aren't looking at trailers with brakes now, but you have a trailer brake controller in your cab. It gets signal that the brake is on (multiple methods from simple input from the brake lights to inertia sensor activated units) and applies proper power to your trailer brakes via wiring. |
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Posted: 3/14/2016 11:50:02 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sort of. You aren't looking at trailers with brakes now, but you have a trailer brake controller in your cab. It gets signal that the brake is on (multiple methods from simple input from the brake lights to inertia sensor activated units) and applies proper power to your trailer brakes via wiring. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
That's what I was talking about when I said "T harness". I guess if it comes with a 4 flat and that's all you'll need for now, you could just run it and upgrade to the RV plug later. I tow heavier trailers with brakes and a charging circuit most of the time. So an RV plug was a must have. Between the RV plug adapters and the 2" reciever, I can tow almost anything. Comes in handy when a buddy calls needing help. Or when I have to go pick up somebody else's trailer. Well...that is no small thing, and would be a benefit to having a decent size trailer with a hitch that will take same. I have not looked at anything with its own brakes. When wiring something like that, does a wire spliced into the brake lights activate the brakes on the trailer? You aren't looking at trailers with brakes now, but you have a trailer brake controller in your cab. It gets signal that the brake is on (multiple methods from simple input from the brake lights to inertia sensor activated units) and applies proper power to your trailer brakes via wiring. So...and here come more dumb questions.. There is a complete, freestanding, hydraulic brake system on the trailer, and when some unit receives a signal, the brake system activates and matches the pressure you're applying to the brake pedal somehow? *confused kitties is confused*
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Posted: 3/15/2016 12:16:15 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So...and here come more dumb questions.. There is a complete, freestanding, hydraulic brake system on the trailer, and when some unit receives a signal, the brake system activates and matches the pressure you're applying to the brake pedal somehow? *confused kitties is confused* Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: That's what I was talking about when I said "T harness". I guess if it comes with a 4 flat and that's all you'll need for now, you could just run it and upgrade to the RV plug later. I tow heavier trailers with brakes and a charging circuit most of the time. So an RV plug was a must have. Between the RV plug adapters and the 2" reciever, I can tow almost anything. Comes in handy when a buddy calls needing help. Or when I have to go pick up somebody else's trailer. Well...that is no small thing, and would be a benefit to having a decent size trailer with a hitch that will take same. I have not looked at anything with its own brakes. When wiring something like that, does a wire spliced into the brake lights activate the brakes on the trailer? You aren't looking at trailers with brakes now, but you have a trailer brake controller in your cab. It gets signal that the brake is on (multiple methods from simple input from the brake lights to inertia sensor activated units) and applies proper power to your trailer brakes via wiring. So...and here come more dumb questions.. There is a complete, freestanding, hydraulic brake system on the trailer, and when some unit receives a signal, the brake system activates and matches the pressure you're applying to the brake pedal somehow? *confused kitties is confused* If the trailer has hydraulic brakes, it has "surge" brakes. Only to be found on old trailers, outlawed for new construction a long time ago. Your modern trailer brakes are electric. Basically, there is an electromagnet attached on a lever to the brake shoes (drum brakes are used). The electromagnet, when power is supplied from the brake controller, tries to grab onto the drum wall. It grabbing onto the drum wall (or trying to) moves the lever it is attached to, spreading the brake shoes, applying friction. |
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Posted: 3/15/2016 12:17:39 AM EDT
[#21]
The cheap brake controllers are basically on/off with signal that your brakes are on. There is a dial of some sort to adjust how much power is sent to the trailer electromagnet. You have to adjust the trailer brake power manually to your load.
Fancy controllers have sensors to automatically adjust power based on how hard you are stopping. |
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Posted: 3/15/2016 12:41:58 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No. If the trailer has hydraulic brakes, it has "surge" brakes. Only to be found on old trailers, outlawed for new construction a long time ago. Your modern trailer brakes are electric. Basically, there is an electromagnet attached on a lever to the brake shoes (drum brakes are used). The electromagnet, when power is supplied from the brake controller, tries to grab onto the drum wall. It grabbing onto the drum wall (or trying to) moves the lever it is attached to, spreading the brake shoes, applying friction. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
That's what I was talking about when I said "T harness". I guess if it comes with a 4 flat and that's all you'll need for now, you could just run it and upgrade to the RV plug later. I tow heavier trailers with brakes and a charging circuit most of the time. So an RV plug was a must have. Between the RV plug adapters and the 2" reciever, I can tow almost anything. Comes in handy when a buddy calls needing help. Or when I have to go pick up somebody else's trailer. Well...that is no small thing, and would be a benefit to having a decent size trailer with a hitch that will take same. I have not looked at anything with its own brakes. When wiring something like that, does a wire spliced into the brake lights activate the brakes on the trailer? You aren't looking at trailers with brakes now, but you have a trailer brake controller in your cab. It gets signal that the brake is on (multiple methods from simple input from the brake lights to inertia sensor activated units) and applies proper power to your trailer brakes via wiring. So...and here come more dumb questions.. There is a complete, freestanding, hydraulic brake system on the trailer, and when some unit receives a signal, the brake system activates and matches the pressure you're applying to the brake pedal somehow? *confused kitties is confused*
If the trailer has hydraulic brakes, it has "surge" brakes. Only to be found on old trailers, outlawed for new construction a long time ago. Your modern trailer brakes are electric. Basically, there is an electromagnet attached on a lever to the brake shoes (drum brakes are used). The electromagnet, when power is supplied from the brake controller, tries to grab onto the drum wall. It grabbing onto the drum wall (or trying to) moves the lever it is attached to, spreading the brake shoes, applying friction. Wow. Okay. I can grasp this. |
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Posted: 3/15/2016 10:45:55 PM EDT
[#23]
I would expect everything you are looking at has the 4 flat plug on it. As mentioned you are looking at single axle and they usually don't carry enough weight to require the trailer to be sold with brakes.
Something like a u-haul trailer will come with surge brakes because it is easier for them to rent them since not everyone is going to hook up a proper setup when they need to rent a trailer. Since you have the rv plug you should have some form of brake controller in the vehicle already, but as mentioned it might not be the easiest to use. I agree with the on/off analogy. Newer ones don't cost a lot and can be adjusted as mentioned, but there goes more money. On the spare tire change, do some searches on youtube and look for how people put the tires for a big rig on the truck. I am talking putting the rim and tire on it, not mounting a new tire on the rim. What I used to do was use a 3 ft prybar and you need to look at how the holes in the rim will line up with the studs on the brake caliper or brake drum. Easiest is to stick on of the studs in the middle top of the circle and what you want is to roll the tire onto the edge of the prybar with a hole in the middle top. Now the prybar can lift the tire a little slide it into place. You can rock the tire side to side a tad to get things lined up. It does take practice but is easier than trying to muscle em, and with something like some of the cement trucks or the miltiary stuff a tire might weigh 4-500 lbs so no I won't be picking that up. Other part of this is don't jack the vehicle way up. Jack it up enough to get the flat off and you will have to raise it some more to get the inflated tire on it. But you should not be lifting the new tire 5 inches into the air to put it on the vehicle. And this is also why I like a slow and cheap air compressor in the vehicle. I can usually air a tire up to either find the leak and plug it myself or drive it so someone else can fix it. It is rare to get something that makes me put the spare on my vehicle, but I have done it a few times when a hole was too big to plug, took 2 truck plugs and a big patch and held great for the rest of the tires lift of 20k more miles or so. Anyway, on that tire change use your brain and leverage. I also believe spare tires are like generators. Once you have a good one it scares away the need for having it, but don't get rid of it or the need might come right back. |
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Posted: 3/15/2016 10:54:36 PM EDT
[#24]
Progress and frustration Report
Been shopping some more. Learned a few things. Saw a few things. Decided a few things. At the end of this, I will ask for opinions on my options from those of you who've been following my quest for a trailer. Y'all get what I'm after, and have been tremendous help. Without you I would have walked off the TSC lot having paid for a trailer within the first couple of days. THANK YOU for reading through this long post and looking at my options with me. ~~I need a power-assist gate. . Yesterday I tried lifting one of those gates on a six-foot trailer and having to muscle that-- I'm going to hate it. Can I do it? Yes. Do I want to do that a few times a day, including when I'm tired after running a trimmer for two hours? Absofreakinglutely NOT.
I've narrowed the field to three possible choices, and NONE of them is what I really want, but I'm guessing the two higher-end choices are the actual finalists. OPTION 1 He's a dealer.--mostly cheap trailers like the ones I could get at TSC, only his cost more. He had ONE Better Built utility trailer on the lot for sale *6 X 12 *3500 lb axle EZ lube *wood deck *square thingies for tie downs *tubing top *radial tires *fancy spring fasteners for the gate Pros: ~Great finish. He says they do two coats of primer and two coats of paint. I could not see any obvious welds. ~It's only six feet wide--this is honestly the widest trailer I need. ~Power assist added to the gate is only $45. ~LED lights ~I don't remember how far the A-frame goes, but plenty for me. Cons: ~It's the only one on the lot and I don't know if it's even still there. ~To get another would take maybe 8 weeks ~ two feet longer than I'd planned (this might be a good thing) ~All he does is sell trailers. He knows NOTHING about the trailers until he gets the sheet they send along with it. I could find that out by calling the company. I'm certain of it. ~He's been there abt 4r years. He's got no investment in me as a customer once he cashes my check, and may not be there two years from now. ~No matter how many times I said, "I'm not towing with that minivan out front. I have another tow vehicle with a 3500 lb limit," he kept looking over at my van and saying, "but you can't pull this trailer with that van." It's like his memory spanned about two seconds. Or he..you know..just wasn't freaking listening. 
~Without any of that stuff above I noticed....I don't like this guy at all. I like the trailer. Not sure how much that should matter but it does. OPTION 2-The Lawrimore dealer in Bowling Green-- Lawrimore It's got all the required stuff... 3500 Lb axle Easy Lube (I ain't takin' off a wheel and packin bearings. Do I know how? Yes. Will I do it? No. No matter what my intentions are, it won't happen.) Mesh Gate Those little square tie-down thingies A-frame (I think the wrap goes to the axle, but I don't remember. Far enough.) Pros: ~These are good quality trailers. The finish looks to me like it's had some attention (I did not crawl under the trailer, but I will) The welds are smooth. There is no rust anywhere. When I first walked up to one, I knew it was a good trailer. ~He's been there for 30 years. ~Easy removal of deck boards for replacement. ~Nearly everything this guy has is Lawrimore. No cheap trailers on the lot.--Dealer supplies him. ~I REALLY LIKE THE OLD GUY WHO RUNS THE PLACE. It means something to me that he did not try to sell me a trailer that was wrong for me. His family works at his business. I think I could write him a check without fighting my gut. Cons: ~I have to buy a trailer a full foot wider than I want. THIS IS KIND OF A BIG DEAL Because Lawrimore does not make a 5.5' or a 6' trailer. They go from 5' straight to 6.5. This is a biggie, but I may just have to get over it. ~I don't see that they offer a power assist gate. I have not asked yet, but I don't see that option on the website. Which means I'll have to pay someone to put that on for me, probably, if I can find anybody who can do it. ~Not sure if LED lights. OPTION 3 [b]I go to TSC and drive away with the POS trailer that is the exact configuration I want, but with no power assist, I have still not ruled this out completely. BOTTOM LINE...The TSC trailer will be about $1K (maybe plus tax). The Better Built trailer from the guy I don't like, complete with power assist gate and a spare tire (not mounted) is $1385 including tax. I don't remember the price of the Lawrimore, but it's not gonna be more than the Better Built. It's somewhere between $1K and $1300 I think. For $2-300 more I get a lot more trailer. I don't see how I can choose the TSC option in good conscience, but I really did like that little trailer.
Open to anyone's thoughts. It's not that I have a lot of money to spend. I don't. But I would always rather love what I buy the first time if I can manage it. |
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Posted: 3/15/2016 11:13:37 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would expect everything you are looking at has the 4 flat plug on it. As mentioned you are looking at single axle and they usually don't carry enough weight to require the trailer to be sold with brakes. Something like a u-haul trailer will come with surge brakes because it is easier for them to rent them since not everyone is going to hook up a proper setup when they need to rent a trailer. Since you have the rv plug you should have some form of brake controller in the vehicle already, but as mentioned it might not be the easiest to use. I agree with the on/off analogy. Newer ones don't cost a lot and can be adjusted as mentioned, but there goes more money. On the spare tire change, do some searches on youtube and look for how people put the tires for a big rig on the truck. I am talking putting the rim and tire on it, not mounting a new tire on the rim. What I used to do was use a 3 ft prybar and you need to look at how the holes in the rim will line up with the studs on the brake caliper or brake drum. Easiest is to stick on of the studs in the middle top of the circle and what you want is to roll the tire onto the edge of the prybar with a hole in the middle top. Now the prybar can lift the tire a little slide it into place. You can rock the tire side to side a tad to get things lined up. It does take practice but is easier than trying to muscle em, and with something like some of the cement trucks or the miltiary stuff a tire might weigh 4-500 lbs so no I won't be picking that up. Other part of this is don't jack the vehicle way up. Jack it up enough to get the flat off and you will have to raise it some more to get the inflated tire on it. But you should not be lifting the new tire 5 inches into the air to put it on the vehicle. And this is also why I like a slow and cheap air compressor in the vehicle. I can usually air a tire up to either find the leak and plug it myself or drive it so someone else can fix it. It is rare to get something that makes me put the spare on my vehicle, but I have done it a few times when a hole was too big to plug, took 2 truck plugs and a big patch and held great for the rest of the tires lift of 20k more miles or so. Anyway, on that tire change use your brain and leverage. I also believe spare tires are like generators. Once you have a good one it scares away the need for having it, but don't get rid of it or the need might come right back. Good stuff. Thank you! I just always changed tires the way I was taught to change them, and never had to deal with really big tires until recently. Time to change.
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Posted: 3/16/2016 10:52:42 AM EDT
[#26]
You don't have to take the bearings off/ apart to pack them with grease. You can pack them just by removing the caps and working the grease in and around the wheel bearing. Its not hard or time consuming its just messy and a PITA vs a grease fitting.
With that said I recommend you go one end of the spectrum or the other. Buy whichever cheapest trailer fits your needs from tractor supply, lowes, home depot ect. They work fine for most home owners and will last well over a decade even in a rust belt. But with that said ANY steel painted trailer will rust if you run them in salt, doesn't matter how many coats of primer, paint, under coating, or whatever are on them. in my AO where they salt like crazy everything rusts. The life expectancy of vehicle is only 8~10 years if you drive them in the winter here. If your not hauling equipment like a small business then those trailers do just fine. I have hauled ATV, UTV, Snowmobiles, lawn tractors an many other things and it still works just fine. The flip side is you buy a high quality aluminum trailer that will still pretty much look the same in the time it takes the steel trailer to rust. You just need to decide if paying double for it is worth it. http://www.tritontrailers.com/utility/aluminumwood/ http://www.tritontrailers.com/utility/all-aluminum/ For some one like me who only uses the trailer a couple times a month the cheap steel works just fine. Considering I live in the country with an SUV the trailer is my "pickup." Two years ago when I gave my trailer new fenders, took a wire brush and rattle can to it I thought about just selling it and buying a new one, but the cost in having something not look rusty and old, for something I use once in a while didn't make sense after I thought it out. Instead I spent a few $ on LED and plastic fenders, a couple hours with a wire brush and rattle can and my trailer looked OK again. I might touch it up again this year. I think my trailer is 8 years old. Uploading pics now.... ETA/ Pics of my T-supply trailer 8+ years old: 
Note: the spare tire doesn't actually ride where its bungeed when I am towing it. It gets strapped flat to the trailer, or put in the back of my Jeep depending on what I am hauling. If I am going local I just take it off as my Jeeps spare fits the trailer as well. I leave it like that so the rim doesn't fill with water. Its not the same rim or tire but its the same diameter and bolt pattern. I got it for $5 at a garage sale after I bought the trailer. 
They are a low end trailer but so far so good with mine. Its one of those things you get what you pay for when you buy new. Sometimes you can get lucky and find a good deal on something used. |
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Posted: 3/16/2016 10:54:32 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Progress and frustration Report Been shopping some more. Learned a few things. Saw a few things. Decided a few things. At the end of this, I will ask for opinions on my options from those of you who've been following my quest for a trailer. Y'all get what I'm after, and have been tremendous help. Without you I would have walked off the TSC lot having paid for a trailer within the first couple of days. THANK YOU for reading through this long post and looking at my options with me. ~~I need a power-assist gate. . Yesterday I tried lifting one of those gates on a six-foot trailer and having to muscle that-- I'm going to hate it. Can I do it? Yes. Do I want to do that a few times a day, including when I'm tired after running a trimmer for two hours? Absofreakinglutely NOT.
I've narrowed the field to three possible choices, and NONE of them is what I really want, but I'm guessing the two higher-end choices are the actual finalists. OPTION 1 He's a dealer.--mostly cheap trailers like the ones I could get at TSC, only his cost more. He had ONE Better Built utility trailer on the lot for sale *6 X 12 *3500 lb axle EZ lube *wood deck *square thingies for tie downs *tubing top *radial tires *fancy spring fasteners for the gate Pros: ~Great finish. He says they do two coats of primer and two coats of paint. I could not see any obvious welds. ~It's only six feet wide--this is honestly the widest trailer I need. ~Power assist added to the gate is only $45. ~LED lights ~I don't remember how far the A-frame goes, but plenty for me. Cons: ~It's the only one on the lot and I don't know if it's even still there. ~To get another would take maybe 8 weeks ~ two feet longer than I'd planned (this might be a good thing) ~All he does is sell trailers. He knows NOTHING about the trailers until he gets the sheet they send along with it. I could find that out by calling the company. I'm certain of it. ~He's been there abt 4r years. He's got no investment in me as a customer once he cashes my check, and may not be there two years from now. ~No matter how many times I said, "I'm not towing with that minivan out front. I have another tow vehicle with a 3500 lb limit," he kept looking over at my van and saying, "but you can't pull this trailer with that van." It's like his memory spanned about two seconds. Or he..you know..just wasn't freaking listening.
~Without any of that stuff above I noticed....I don't like this guy at all. I like the trailer. Not sure how much that should matter but it does. OPTION 2-The Lawrimore dealer in Bowling Green-- Lawrimore It's got all the required stuff... 3500 Lb axle Easy Lube (I ain't takin' off a wheel and packin bearings. Do I know how? Yes. Will I do it? No. No matter what my intentions are, it won't happen.) Mesh Gate Those little square tie-down thingies A-frame (I think the wrap goes to the axle, but I don't remember. Far enough.) Pros: ~These are good quality trailers. The finish looks to me like it's had some attention (I did not crawl under the trailer, but I will) The welds are smooth. There is no rust anywhere. When I first walked up to one, I knew it was a good trailer. ~He's been there for 30 years. ~Easy removal of deck boards for replacement. ~Nearly everything this guy has is Lawrimore. No cheap trailers on the lot.--Dealer supplies him. ~I REALLY LIKE THE OLD GUY WHO RUNS THE PLACE. It means something to me that he did not try to sell me a trailer that was wrong for me. His family works at his business. I think I could write him a check without fighting my gut. Cons: ~I have to buy a trailer a full foot wider than I want. THIS IS KIND OF A BIG DEAL Because Lawrimore does not make a 5.5' or a 6' trailer. They go from 5' straight to 6.5. This is a biggie, but I may just have to get over it. ~I don't see that they offer a power assist gate. I have not asked yet, but I don't see that option on the website. Which means I'll have to pay someone to put that on for me, probably, if I can find anybody who can do it. ~Not sure if LED lights. OPTION 3 [b]I go to TSC and drive away with the POS trailer that is the exact configuration I want, but with no power assist, I have still not ruled this out completely. BOTTOM LINE...The TSC trailer will be about $1K (maybe plus tax). The Better Built trailer from the guy I don't like, complete with power assist gate and a spare tire (not mounted) is $1385 including tax. I don't remember the price of the Lawrimore, but it's not gonna be more than the Better Built. It's somewhere between $1K and $1300 I think. For $2-300 more I get a lot more trailer. I don't see how I can choose the TSC option in good conscience, but I really did like that little trailer.
Open to anyone's thoughts. It's not that I have a lot of money to spend. I don't. But I would always rather love what I buy the first time if I can manage it. Go back to the dealer at #2 and see if you can muscle the ramp, then check to see if the power assist is an option. Personally I would go with #2. The guy has been a help to you, been in business for a long time, and you seem to like him. The trailer is only 6 inches wider than the first trailer. After you tow it for a while you will hardly notice the extra width. Later you will enjoy having that extra width, believe me. 
Better built trailers are pretty nice, see a lot of them around my area. But, if the guy was being a jerk, why bother? |
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Posted: 3/16/2016 11:57:20 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You don't have to take the bearings off/ apart to pack them with grease. You can pack them just by removing the caps and working the grease in and around the wheel bearing. Its not hard or time consuming its just messy and a PITA vs a grease fitting. <snip> Note: the spare tire doesn't actually ride where its bungeed when I am towing it. It gets strapped flat to the trailer, or put in the back of my Jeep depending on what I am hauling. If I am going local I just take it off as my Jeeps spare fits the trailer as well. I leave it like that so the rim doesn't fill with water. Its not the same rim or tire but its the same diameter and bolt pattern. I got it for $5 at a garage sale after I bought the trailer.
They are a low end trailer but so far so good with mine. Its one of those things you get what you pay for when you buy new. Sometimes you can get lucky and find a good deal on something used. Okay...good on the bearings. You know....I've been thinking about the spare too. It's my fear of the trailer and lack of familiarity with all things trailer that made me think I needed to go with his spare. I think a used rim and tire would be just fine and it doesn't have to be pretty. It's gonna sit there and bake in the sun all the time. It won't be pretty for long anyway. I actually agree with your thinking, and honestly, a lower end trailer would likely work for me just fine. HOWEVER. For such a small (relatively) bit more money to get a better one--I'm struggling with dropping 85 percent of that to get one that will require work sooner. |
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Posted: 3/16/2016 12:01:00 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Go back to the dealer at #2 and see if you can muscle the ramp, then check to see if the power assist is an option. Personally I would go with #2. The guy has been a help to you, been in business for a long time, and you seem to like him. The trailer is only 6 inches wider than the first trailer. After you tow it for a while you will hardly notice the extra width. Later you will enjoy having that extra width, believe me.
Better built trailers are pretty nice, see a lot of them around my area. But, if the guy was being a jerk, why bother? I need to do exactly that. Visit the Lawrimore guy again. Yeah, Better Built is from down your way I think...somewhere in Alabama maybe? I wouldn't say he was a jerk exactly. Just....clueless and not listening. I generally listen to my gut, and my gut is saying NO, but my brain likes this trailer. That's the trouble. I just know if I go back to the old guy he's going to help me with any issues I have, and I can ask him questions and get an honest answer. As a first-time purchaser, I value that. |
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Posted: 3/16/2016 2:13:53 PM EDT
[#30]
I'd suggest the old guy. Or that 150 mile road trip.
Maybe they would deliver. My trailer guy is 50 miles, he brings me parts when he comes into my town.
Once your tow vehicle is ready, ask the old guy if you can try the wider trailer for what you expect to do for an afternoon. I'd see if he'd let you try both the 5.5 and 6.5. You want 6 feet, another 6 inches is not going to bother you. The BetterBuilt trailer I see has taillights that would be a no-go for me. I'd bust those off backing into things not to mention my kneecap every time I try and strap down a load. On the list of agravating issues, catching my knee on a dumb piece of steel holding a taillight out in the middle of everything. They could have done better. If I purchased that trailer I'd cut the bracket off and mount lights to the bottom corners of the tailgate. (Full disclosure, I do hate where they put the license plate lights, they stick out and I've come close to sheering them off. There is really no good place to mount a plate on this trailer. ) Mine: 
See if any of these people have a 5 or 10 y.o. painted trailer example. You could probably google utility trailers and 2006 to see what used painted stuff looks like. I know others swear by paint, easy to touch up and paint does look good(I used to do some autobody painting) but for a maintenance free use it and forget about it until next time trailer, powder coat IMHO. For paint to last, it needs washed, waxed, buffed etc. Trailers see a lot of road debris/sand, look at towed cars behind RV's, without a bra the paint is trashed in short order. After 8 years and 30,000 miles the only rust I have on my powder coated trailer is the first upright on each side rail. Sorry for the dirt, it's been wet here.  There are tiny spots here and there where a rock has hit but even with salt roads, a fresh rinse once in a while will do wonders to keep the powder coat in good shape.
If nothing else, if this trailer lasts me 15 years, that's $100 per year for quite a bit of convenience. I've rented trailers for $100 per day. 
For your tailgate lift assist. If you like a trailer without it, you can retrofit with this https://www.etrailer.com/Tailgate/Rackem/RA-27C.html Depending on how they hinge the gate, you might be able to use some regular assist springs cost a couple of dollars. In the end, for your expected use, anything that looks decent quality wise will serve you well. You are not going to wear it out. Your trailer will be sad, under a covered awning, forgotten till next week but wishing to be overloaded with thousands of pounds of junk, dragged over curbs at the drive-through , backed into trees, bounced over railroad tracks and bent to heck with the judicious and overzealous use of too big ratchet straps
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Posted: 3/16/2016 3:18:37 PM EDT
[#31]
I don't know what is around you but if there is something like a northern tool run a search on tailgate assist. They make some you put on yourself but I don't know what you want to mess with.
I would also run some searches on tailgate assist and a pic search on google as well. Someone had a picture of half a leaf spring helping bring the tailgate back up, I figure it has the other half under the trailer. I don't really worry about lights I guess, driving a full size school bus full of screaming kids taught me to adjust to things somewhat. I have bought steel angles for assembling something like a deck or swingset and used the to protect lights and what not. I have slammed my knees enough I try and watch where I step and go so I don't walk into stuff. I understand the comments, but it depends on the person. Anyway, a tailgate assist is just a spring that is collapsed in the upright position and it stretches as you put the tailgate down. Heck, I wonder if some of the tiny straps for yanking an atv out of the much might be light enough to stretch a little and help pull the tailgate up. Then again I come back to ramps since you only move one at a time, but I get it. If you search around it should not be hard to add a tailgate assist to your trailer of choice. My uncle and I went halvsies on a 6x10 with a big gate to load his zero turn mower at a low angle and we bought it from a neighbor of his who was a trailer dealer and was getting out of that business. No major discount, just knew the fella and yeah the paint was nice and what not but after a few years it is about like a tractor supply trailer and needs some work. I don't know who you have work on your vehicles but most likely if they looked into the trailer assist stuff they might be able to add it as well. I have never used em, run a lot of searches on reliability. I would probably just use the little boat winch I plan to bolt on the front of my trailer and yeah it would need something so the wire or strap went over the load and back down to the tailgate but I don't think it is something a few 2x4s or 4x4s in side pockets could not do and suddenly I have a winch for loading my atv with a flat tire or when it won't run and a tailgate lifter upper. Then again, I don't really recomend a lot of my ideas for everyone. It takes a certain bit of silliness and lack of knowledge on some physics to do some of this stuff. And scrap wood helps as well. |
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Posted: 3/16/2016 4:07:32 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't know what is around you but if there is something like a northern tool run a search on tailgate assist. They make some you put on yourself but I don't know what you want to mess with. I would also run some searches on tailgate assist and a pic search on google as well. Someone had a picture of half a leaf spring helping bring the tailgate back up, I figure it has the other half under the trailer. I don't really worry about lights I guess, driving a full size school bus full of screaming kids taught me to adjust to things somewhat. I have bought steel angles for assembling something like a deck or swingset and used the to protect lights and what not. I have slammed my knees enough I try and watch where I step and go so I don't walk into stuff. I understand the comments, but it depends on the person. Anyway, a tailgate assist is just a spring that is collapsed in the upright position and it stretches as you put the tailgate down. Heck, I wonder if some of the tiny straps for yanking an atv out of the much might be light enough to stretch a little and help pull the tailgate up. Then again I come back to ramps since you only move one at a time, but I get it. If you search around it should not be hard to add a tailgate assist to your trailer of choice. My uncle and I went halvsies on a 6x10 with a big gate to load his zero turn mower at a low angle and we bought it from a neighbor of his who was a trailer dealer and was getting out of that business. No major discount, just knew the fella and yeah the paint was nice and what not but after a few years it is about like a tractor supply trailer and needs some work. I don't know who you have work on your vehicles but most likely if they looked into the trailer assist stuff they might be able to add it as well. I have never used em, run a lot of searches on reliability. I would probably just use the little boat winch I plan to bolt on the front of my trailer and yeah it would need something so the wire or strap went over the load and back down to the tailgate but I don't think it is something a few 2x4s or 4x4s in side pockets could not do and suddenly I have a winch for loading my atv with a flat tire or when it won't run and a tailgate lifter upper. Then again, I don't really recomend a lot of my ideas for everyone. It takes a certain bit of silliness and lack of knowledge on some physics to do some of this stuff. And scrap wood helps as well. Unless it requires welding, i can put something on myself. If it requires welding, then no I cannot..AND...Welding is going to defeat all that nice paint . BUT..I wonder if the power assist the Better Built guy is going to install won't also do the same thing and he's just failing to mention that. |
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Posted: 3/16/2016 6:21:22 PM EDT
[#33]
Here's my 2 cents on bearings.
I prefer to pull them, clean, and repack. It takes like $10-15 in seals, grease, and cotter pins. Only takes an hour or so on a single axle. Here is why. EZ-lube axles force grease into the back bearing fine, but has to completely fill the hub to reach the front bearing. Bearing buddys do the opposite. They hit the front bearing, but have to completely fill the hub to reach the back. There are a few problems with this. #1 is that eventually you blow grease past the seal. Once that happens you will continue to blow grease past the seal. Makes a mess and attracts dirt which will eat the seal and then the bearings. #2 is heat. When you have too much grease in a rotating assembly like a hub, the grease will start to churn. Churning grease causes friction and builds heat. Heat is the enemy in wheel bearings. I like my bearings to run less than 100 degrees. At about 120 degrees I start taking them apart to back off pre-load. Don't back it off too much though. Sloppy bearings will beat themselves up and fail. I don't care how many farmers insist that sloppy wheel bearings are good. I like mine as tight as I can get without getting too hot. Always check the bearings when you acquire a new axle or complete trailer. I have bought a dozen or so new axles that claim to be ready to use. Almost all of them were way too loose. Some didn't have any grease besides what was there to keep the bearings from rusting. I'm picky with my trailers. I keep them maintained. I feel that they should be ready to run cross country anytime without worry. So far I'm doing well. No cross country trips, but have made a few day trips with 6-8 hrs of driving at close to rated capacity. |
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Posted: 3/16/2016 6:21:22 PM EDT
[#34]
Oops. Double tap.
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Posted: 3/16/2016 7:07:35 PM EDT
[#35]
My vote would be for option #2. I would see if they could add a power lift for you. You can't put a price tag on great service. The dealer I got my PJ trailer from threw in the spare tire on mine for an extra $35.00.
As I mentioned in my previous post, bigger is better. There may come a time that you will thank yourself for getting a trailer that is a little bit larger, but still easy to use. I am wishing I got a 16' instead of the 14', so I could have a little bit more room for a gear box to carry gas, chains, tie downs, etc.....And when I do eventually trade up to a 16', I am going to get a tandem axle set up as I would like to get a Kubota tractor someday and I would need something to haul that around. |
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Posted: 3/16/2016 8:48:00 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here's my 2 cents on bearings. I prefer to pull them, clean, and repack. It takes like $10-15 in seals, grease, and cotter pins. Only takes an hour or so on a single axle. Here is why. EZ-lube axles force grease into the back bearing fine, but has to completely fill the hub to reach the front bearing. Bearing buddys do the opposite. They hit the front bearing, but have to completely fill the hub to reach the back. There are a few problems with this. #1 is that eventually you blow grease past the seal. Once that happens you will continue to blow grease past the seal. Makes a mess and attracts dirt which will eat the seal and then the bearings. #2 is heat. When you have too much grease in a rotating assembly like a hub, the grease will start to churn. Churning grease causes friction and builds heat. Heat is the enemy in wheel bearings. I like my bearings to run less than 100 degrees. At about 120 degrees I start taking them apart to back off pre-load. Don't back it off too much though. Sloppy bearings will beat themselves up and fail. I don't care how many farmers insist that sloppy wheel bearings are good. I like mine as tight as I can get without getting too hot. Always check the bearings when you acquire a new axle or complete trailer. I have bought a dozen or so new axles that claim to be ready to use. Almost all of them were way too loose. Some didn't have any grease besides what was there to keep the bearings from rusting. I'm picky with my trailers. I keep them maintained. I feel that they should be ready to run cross country anytime without worry. So far I'm doing well. No cross country trips, but have made a few day trips with 6-8 hrs of driving at close to rated capacity. I admire that level of knowledge and dedication to your equipment. I was that way with my musical instruments when I considered those tools. Now the tool I use to earn my living is a computer, and all the other tools are adjunct to my life. I'm not going to be nearly as careful as you are with a trailer--because although I agree with this philosophy, I just don't have time. This is the first time in many, many years I have messed with a vehicle to get it running, instead of hauling it to somebody and paying them. And I'm starting to get antsy about how many days it's taking to refurb this tow vehicle. (Which does not mean I will stop. It needs the refurb either to tow or to sell, so it needs done one way or another.) I used to enjoy working with vehicles and when I was young it was worth my time. Now I can't justify it (this makes me sad. It's not meant to be a brag of any sort.) I don't have the skill to do things at a higher level than my mechanic, so what I do is "shade tree" at best, because I also don't have time to pursue the skill set even as an advancing hobby now.
My trailer will be a tool I use, maintain the best I can, but I will not be doing extra stuff to it, and I won't get scientific about it unless something goes wrong.
It is, unfortunately, the way of my life now.
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Posted: 3/16/2016 8:50:20 PM EDT
[#37]
Thanks to whoever mentioned Northern Tool.
This is what I need. So if they don't add it at the dealer, or if they charge WAY too much to add it, I can do it. Kinda wish I already had the trailer, so I could take advantage of this sale.
Gorilla Lift |
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Posted: 3/16/2016 8:57:35 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks to whoever mentioned Northern Tool. This is what I need. So if they don't add it at the dealer, or if they charge WAY too much to add it, I can do it. Kinda wish I already had the trailer, so I could take advantage of this sale.
Gorilla Lift buy it for your 2nd trailer 
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Posted: 3/16/2016 9:00:18 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My vote would be for option #2. I would see if they could add a power lift for you. You can't put a price tag on great service. The dealer I got my PJ trailer from threw in the spare tire on mine for an extra $35.00. As I mentioned in my previous post, bigger is better. There may come a time that you will thank yourself for getting a trailer that is a little bit larger, but still easy to use. I am wishing I got a 16' instead of the 14', so I could have a little bit more room for a gear box to carry gas, chains, tie downs, etc.....And when I do eventually trade up to a 16', I am going to get a tandem axle set up as I would like to get a Kubota tractor someday and I would need something to haul that around. You know what? Y'all have shifted my view on what I need. I went to TSC today and looked at "my" trailer--the 5.5 X 10, and I sat there and thought, "But I could get a twelve-footer." 
Y'all have got me wanting a bigger trailer. I'm going down the road nearly weaving into the ditch any time a trailer goes by, trying to see their configuration. When one goes by with a tool box I'm like...."Oooohhhhh! Extra length would give me room for that!"
It would also add a lot of weight, which, with my small tow vehicle, I can't really afford or I'll run short on my ability to haul anything.
Almost to a one, y'all have said "bigger is better" (and I know you mean "to a point." Y'all don't mean I need a monster that I can't tow.) So I have listened, and as I've looked around, NOBODY but maybe one person has said, "nah, go with the smaller one. It's all you need." I don't think this is ARFCOM's version of "GET MOAR GUNS!" I think it's experience talking. So if I go for the Lawrimore trailer, I have to get at least 6.5, because now I think 5 feet wide is going to limit me. Maybe I'm wrong, but I think I would love a 6.5 X 12. If I can't afford that, I may go for a 6.5 X 10. Yeah, I'm scared of it. But you know what? I'll get over it. I've never let fear stop me before, and damned if I'm going to let it do so now. If I do, "olde" will get me for sure.
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Posted: 3/16/2016 9:04:54 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
buy it for your 2nd trailer Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Thanks to whoever mentioned Northern Tool. This is what I need. So if they don't add it at the dealer, or if they charge WAY too much to add it, I can do it. Kinda wish I already had the trailer, so I could take advantage of this sale.
Gorilla Lift buy it for your 2nd trailer If I get a second trailer, I'll have to store it in the front yard. I'm looking around to find room for this one.
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Posted: 3/16/2016 9:22:28 PM EDT
[#41]
well I will store it in Iowa for you just let me use it hahaha. like they always say. Want friends. buy a trailer.
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Posted: 3/16/2016 9:47:46 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
well I will store it in Iowa for you just let me use it hahaha. like they always say. Want friends. buy a trailer. I knew that about pickup trucks, though I didn't find it to be all that true...but then I live in the country, so everybody has one.
I did NOT know that about trailers, but ... hmmm... I have neighbors near me who have rescued me more times than I can count...one has a car hauler, and one moved a deck from another house to my yard (to be installed on my house later). Hmmm....yeah....I have great appreciation for good trailers. Maybe if I want to be popular, I need an even bigger trailer. 
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Posted: 3/17/2016 4:38:41 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I went to TSC today and looked at "my" trailer--the 5.5 X 10, and I sat there and thought, "But I could get a twelve-footer." You can get 3-6 pallets on a 12'. Only 2-4 on a 10.
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Posted: 3/17/2016 10:08:29 PM EDT
[#44]
I don't know a ton about towing or trailers, but I read through the thread thinking that I might learn something, which I did.
I wanted to point out that you might want to check the towing capacity of your vehicle, which should be in the owner's manual. From the thread, you've said it's a 1991 Isuzu Trooper. It was mentioned somewhere that it has a towing capacity of 5000 lbs. That seems really high for that size of an SUV. I am guessing that the hitch says 5000 lbs on it somewhere, which means the hitch is rated for that amount, but the vehicle doesn't necessarily have the same capacity. Additionally, above a certain weight threshold, you might need trailer brakes or sway control--this information will also be in the owner's manual. |
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Posted: 3/18/2016 12:26:08 AM EDT
[#45]
Most single axle trailers will come with at best a 3500lb axle. Figure a trailer might weigh 1k lbs or 1500lbs and then you have a one ton load limit. I would consider a 1500lb trailer dang heavy but depending on some of the sizes mention in here it could happen perhaps. I never weighed my junk so I can't guestimate all that well.
That vehicle should be rated for 3500lbs I would expect. And it is rare to see a single axle trailer with trailer brakes, but as I think I said somewhere it is not that uncommon to add em for some stuff. My little wrangler could benefit from trailer brakes if I was towing all the time, especially in soso weather and what not. Short wheelbase and little vehicle and even with its 2k lb or whatever tow limit in some of the turns here in east tn I could see where having the trailer having brakes would be awfully nice. Anyway, that is the assumption I have been working on for all my posts and yeah I assume a lot and I sometimes get results that are predictable from doing so. I have not really seen any single axle trailers rated at 5k lbs, seen some specialty and a lot of home made stuff some with a single axle running dual tires on each side but it was specifically made for some job. Not picking on the above post, it is always good to double check stuff. I am just putting this post in to show what I assumed and went off of. As mentioned somewhere I don't always do the best thing when someone who really understands physics is watching. |
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Posted: 3/18/2016 9:46:38 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not picking on the above post, it is always good to double check stuff. This is what I was getting at, mostly. As you've said earlier in the thread, towing over-capacity for short distances on flat ground (weather / condition permitting), is probably fine, and you've got a lot more experience than I do. However, knowing the towing capacity as suggested by the vehicle manufacturer will help in making decisions on what is and isn't safe to tow--it's a starting point. I wasn't able to find a definite answer online for the 1991 Isuzu Trooper's towing capacity, but found values ranging from 2000 lbs to 3500 lbs, as described here for a 1990 Isuzu trooper (same generation): http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/795217/site_id/1#import |
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Posted: 3/18/2016 12:04:17 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't know a ton about towing or trailers, but I read through the thread thinking that I might learn something, which I did. I wanted to point out that you might want to check the towing capacity of your vehicle, which should be in the owner's manual. From the thread, you've said it's a 1991 Isuzu Trooper. It was mentioned somewhere that it has a towing capacity of 5000 lbs. That seems really high for that size of an SUV. I am guessing that the hitch says 5000 lbs on it somewhere, which means the hitch is rated for that amount, but the vehicle doesn't necessarily have the same capacity. Additionally, above a certain weight threshold, you might need trailer brakes or sway control--this information will also be in the owner's manual. Actually the hitch is only rated for 3500. I don't know the written towing capacity of this vehicle, because I can't find the manual. But it's a relatively heavy SUV, with a 4L built in. I will eventually find out exactly what it's rated to pull, but at present, I'm not one bit worried about it handling 3500 lbs once I get it road worthy. None of the trailers I've shopped for have an axle that will take more than 3500.
I will have to get some experience in a parking lot or open field towing before I will feel at all comfortable. I'm freaking out about that a little, and I've gotta get the thing home. I have a neighbor who will help me and give instruction if I ask, and I think I will try to ask him to go with me to pick the trailer up. That way I have backup if I get stuck (and hopefully he won't let me get stuck).
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Posted: 3/18/2016 12:07:17 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is what I was getting at, mostly. As you've said earlier in the thread, towing over-capacity for short distances on flat ground (weather / condition permitting), is probably fine, and you've got a lot more experience than I do. However, knowing the towing capacity as suggested by the vehicle manufacturer will help in making decisions on what is and isn't safe to tow--it's a starting point. I wasn't able to find a definite answer online for the 1991 Isuzu Trooper's towing capacity, but found values ranging from 2000 lbs to 3500 lbs, as described here for a 1990 Isuzu trooper (same generation): http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/795217/site_id/1#import Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Not picking on the above post, it is always good to double check stuff. This is what I was getting at, mostly. As you've said earlier in the thread, towing over-capacity for short distances on flat ground (weather / condition permitting), is probably fine, and you've got a lot more experience than I do. However, knowing the towing capacity as suggested by the vehicle manufacturer will help in making decisions on what is and isn't safe to tow--it's a starting point. I wasn't able to find a definite answer online for the 1991 Isuzu Trooper's towing capacity, but found values ranging from 2000 lbs to 3500 lbs, as described here for a 1990 Isuzu trooper (same generation): http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/795217/site_id/1#import You'll find you're not able to get definite answers for much of anything on the 1991 Isuzu Trooper.
It's sorta the redheaded step child of the Isuzu SUV line. There are Isuzu SUV clubs out there though--it's sort of a cult vehicle, so as I infiltrate and do recon, I'll find the answers. Like...."Is that the fuel pressure regulator? I think it must be, but none of the manuals show it."
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Posted: 3/22/2016 3:29:07 PM EDT
[#49]
Any update Kitties?
Bought a trailer, towed it home, enjoyed it so much you started a cross country shipping company?
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Posted: 3/22/2016 5:19:13 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Any update Kitties? Bought a trailer, towed it home, enjoyed it so much you started a cross country shipping company? Sorry. Working on the tow vehicle. Today I had planned to pull it over our built in vehicle lift (that's a ditch by the driveway in case you're wondering ) and drain the transmission and transfer case, and the axles, and refill with fresh fluids. But I need backup if I'm going to be under a car draining hot oil, (that's our rule--neither of us does something like that without backup nearby) and uxb had to work late. So we'll see what time he gets home. I really need the trailer no later than the first of next week, so tomorrow I will probably visit the Lawrimore dealer again to see what he has on the lot.
Hopefully I will have pics of the trailer soon. I the meantime...here is the tow vehicle in progress.. A sad state to be in: 
All cleaned up with refurb in progress 
Working on light sockets and restoring headlamps 
Yeah...new belts and hoses are definitely in order...
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