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Posted: 5/26/2017 10:02:57 AM EDT
[#1]
Loaded up a 10' grader blade I bought last Sept. After some measuring, I finally came to the conclusion that it was just too big for my tractor; so off to the local farm store monthly auction it went.
We like pics right? Isn't that what Kitties wanted to see? Well then, we gots the pics: Loading it up on my 12k lb trailer: 
Tied down with a scenery shot as a bonus: 
Another tie down shot. Note that in these pics, those chains are like iron bars, they are that taut. Which, by the by, is very easy and very safe to do with those ratchet binders I'm using. Extra credit points to those who note that the chains hooks are pointed down vs. up. I'll let somebody else say why. 
One last shot. 
Someone above asked what good these trailers are for transporting ATVs, snowmobiles etc. etc. etc. Note in the above two pics how close the standing ramps are too each other. I do not believe that is the closest they can get, only what they naturally move to from the trailer being driven around and basically are limited to the chains holding them up. Note that ramps are more than close enough to load the aforementioned vehicles with ease. |
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Posted: 5/26/2017 10:21:55 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Someone above asked what good these trailers are for transporting ATVs, snowmobiles etc. etc. etc. Note in the above two pics how close the standing ramps are too each other. I do not believe that is the closest they can get, only what they naturally move to from the trailer being driven around and basically are limited to the chains holding them up. Note that ramps are more than close enough to load the aforementioned vehicles with ease. |
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Posted: 5/26/2017 12:27:49 PM EDT
[#3]
All of my straps are ratcheting straps, as in you have actual ratchet action to tighten them and yes you need to have some clicks on em in order to have the load securely held.
My small ones are all 3500lb rated and sam's club used to sell, and may still, a 4 pack for 20 bucks. I often saw the same straps in a 2 pack at wally world for 20 bucks as well. They are yellow and some had nothing on the rubber handle loop and some say goodyear. I like a decent sized lever/handle for ratcheting. Tractor supply has had some big 10k or so rated ones for 10 bucks for 1 when on sale. Might have a sale on them for this weekend and might not. Much larger of course and pretty happy with design for 10 bucks. I have chains but no binders and don't haul big stuff so do not consider it that big a deal. Mowers, 4 wheelers, and stuff like that is about as big as I get. I always let the driver of the vehicle strap stuff down, and if someone wants to help I just let them hold stuff as I line it up. The driver is repsonsible if something happens and I just tell people to let me do it. |
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Posted: 5/27/2017 12:42:02 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Loaded up a 10' grader blade I bought last Sept. After some measuring, I finally came to the conclusion that it was just too big for my tractor; so off to the local farm store monthly auction it went. We like pics right? Isn't that what Kitties wanted to see? Well then, we gots the pics: Loading it up on my 12k lb trailer: http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p111/Albinator/Kubota%20tractor/IMG_20170525_113835315%20Large_zps8z13uens.jpg Tied down with a scenery shot as a bonus: http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p111/Albinator/Kubota%20tractor/IMG_20170525_114746761%20Large_zpsroaqtwhp.jpg Another tie down shot. Note that in these pics, those chains are like iron bars, they are that taut. Which, by the by, is very easy and very safe to do with those ratchet binders I'm using. Extra credit points to those who note that the chains hooks are pointed down vs. up. I'll let somebody else say why. http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p111/Albinator/Kubota%20tractor/IMG_20170525_114810407%20Large_zpsglkff7rh.jpg One last shot. http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p111/Albinator/Kubota%20tractor/IMG_20170525_114816352%20Large_zpshnjynsvp.jpg Someone above asked what good these trailers are for transporting ATVs, snowmobiles etc. etc. etc. Note in the above two pics how close the standing ramps are too each other. I do not believe that is the closest they can get, only what they naturally move to from the trailer being driven around and basically are limited to the chains holding them up. Note that ramps are more than close enough to load the aforementioned vehicles with ease. I don't know the answer to the points up vs down question, but just thinking about the shape of the hooks and not wanting gravity to pull the chains out of them, I might have chosen points up, but I'm guessing that's not the reason? |
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Posted: 6/11/2017 3:29:32 PM EDT
[#5]
Bump.
I've got some photos with some questions about something I saw...just gotta get time to upload them. 
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Posted: 6/12/2017 10:34:16 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Awesome photos. I don't know the answer to the points up vs down question, but just thinking about the shape of the hooks and not wanting gravity to pull the chains out of them, I might have chosen points up, but I'm guessing that's not the reason? BTW, as an aside: that grader blade sold over the last week, just found out Saturday AM. I was planning to buy a used Ruger .44 Mag auto; but now my AC isn't working as it should and there might my excess gun money goes bye-bye as well. Never fails.  and 
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Posted: 6/13/2017 12:38:33 AM EDT
[#7]
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I think northern tool is currently running a sale & has 2 ratchet binders for $35 (5/16" , 5400 lb WLL) if you are near a store... Nick maybe I need some permanent little straps attached to the "tie-down points" of my mower to then hook my straps into, cuz I'm destroying the webbing the way I'm doing it now. Fortunately I'm destroying uber-cheap straps (4 for $20) from Wally World, which were my first (emergency) strap purchases, and when I upgrade, I want to do better. I will post some photos asap. |
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Posted: 6/13/2017 12:44:36 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Exactly. If the points are pointing up, slack in the chain could potentially cause the chain hook to drop and then become unfastened to the stake pocket. No hook on stake pocket = no tiedown = things go bye-bye in a hurry = bad news. BTW, as an aside: that grader blade sold over the last week, just found out Saturday AM. I was planning to buy a used Ruger .44 Mag auto; but now my AC isn't working as it should and there might my excess gun money goes bye-bye as well. Never fails. and But...AC is necessary cuz we have lost whatever gene we had that allowed us to travel to Florida and back in a station wagon with no A/C and live through it and consider it vacation. 
Looking at your photos.... I was confused by the vertical chains in the second photo, but I think they are just hanging there, under teh ratchet binder, and I think there are only two main chains tying down your load....one on each side of the "mount" for the blade, and each has its own binder. is that correct? |
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Posted: 6/13/2017 10:20:29 AM EDT
[#9]
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I am coming into this thread a bit late, but I have another solution to the strapping down of flat items. I have a 16 foot car hauler, and a 4x8 Harbor Freight tilt bed. The smaller trailer gets used a lot, but bounces down the road when unloaded. I bought a couple of tubes of sand to stop the bouncing, but the sand tubes are fantastic for holding down things like steel rod, or plywood. Straps go over the sand tubes of course. I would put your doors on top of the tubes to prevent damage. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
If you knew you were going to be doing something like hauling a couple pieces of plywood you could take some home made wood blocks or cinder blocks or something to use as spacers so the straps have something to tension against. If you come off the tongue and go to the tailgate you can probably stay low enough, but it varies. When I say come off the tongue, I figure you can wrap a strap of something around it or a support right there or something. I have never owned a tube trailer I guess to some extent with some of the longer straps I have I could slide a strap under the trailer and just wrap the whole trailer up maybe. Depends on what the bottom looks like and skip being around the axle and suspension of course. I am coming into this thread a bit late, but I have another solution to the strapping down of flat items. I have a 16 foot car hauler, and a 4x8 Harbor Freight tilt bed. The smaller trailer gets used a lot, but bounces down the road when unloaded. I bought a couple of tubes of sand to stop the bouncing, but the sand tubes are fantastic for holding down things like steel rod, or plywood. Straps go over the sand tubes of course. I would put your doors on top of the tubes to prevent damage. Of course this won't work with most of the trailers being discussed, but it works great when repositioning these smaller trailers. How small will depend on trailer, how smooth the surface is, and physical condition of the human mule. |
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Posted: 6/13/2017 11:05:54 AM EDT
[#10]
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This weekend I found another reason to buy sand tubes for these smaller trailers. I needed to move my trailer about 50 yards. I put the sand tubes at the rear of the trailer, and lifting the tongue became effortless. I could have gone for a walk down the road pulling the trailer by hand. Of course this won't work with most of the trailers being discussed, but it works great when repositioning these smaller trailers. How small will depend on trailer, how smooth the surface is, and physical condition of the human mule. |
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Posted: 6/14/2017 1:31:49 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Aww, damn. I'm sorry about the Ruger. That's a good gun. But...AC is necessary cuz we have lost whatever gene we had that allowed us to travel to Florida and back in a station wagon with no A/C and live through it and consider it vacation.
Looking at your photos.... I was confused by the vertical chains in the second photo, but I think they are just hanging there, under teh ratchet binder, and I think there are only two main chains tying down your load....one on each side of the "mount" for the blade, and each has its own binder. is that correct? Oh and it's $4200 to replace the 1994 vintage HVAC system. They are doing it right now. The upside? 2 1/2 tons > 3 tons. Hear that noise? Yep, that's the sound of the plan to buy that Ruger .44 Mag semi going bye-bye.
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Posted: 6/14/2017 1:47:51 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There are three chains total, the two crossed ones are the obvious ones. Then there is a third chain that is on the right that the two binders tie onto. Oh and it's $4200 to replace the 1994 vintage HVAC system. They are doing it right now. The upside? 2 1/2 tons > 3 tons. Hear that noise? Yep, that's the sound of the plan to buy that Ruger .44 Mag semi going bye-bye. |
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Posted: 6/18/2017 9:03:53 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What you need is a small garden tractor with a 3 point. I use my 316 to shuttle trailers all over, from my horse (cow) trailer to my 23' flat bed! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
This weekend I found another reason to buy sand tubes for these smaller trailers. I needed to move my trailer about 50 yards. I put the sand tubes at the rear of the trailer, and lifting the tongue became effortless. I could have gone for a walk down the road pulling the trailer by hand. Of course this won't work with most of the trailers being discussed, but it works great when repositioning these smaller trailers. How small will depend on trailer, how smooth the surface is, and physical condition of the human mule. Being able to move the small trailer around by hand is great for moving it to mow around it, or to yank it around to hook it up to the car. Did you add weight to your 316 to pull your 23 foot trailer? |
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Posted: 6/28/2017 11:51:37 PM EDT
[#14]
Okay y'all...
I was behind THIS in town a few weeks back. I've been trying to get a few free minutes to upload this photo. Just now got to it. Is the thing on the trailer "lip" just for smooth riding onto the gate? Looks like it might ease that angle between gate and bed, too....might be a better option than cutting and putting an angle in the gate itself???? Or not??? 
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Posted: 6/29/2017 12:09:25 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is the thing on the trailer "lip" just for smooth riding onto the gate? I'm going to say yes. It's difficult to get over the bump when you have tires that are wet or packed with grass. Looks like it might ease that angle between gate and bed, too....might be a better option than cutting and putting an angle in the gate itself???? Or not??? I don't think there is enough extension to help with the angle. Add another foot or two and you will see some change. http://www.fototime.com/722C95D04FDF68B/large.jpg |
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Posted: 7/1/2017 6:12:42 PM EDT
[#16]
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Posted: 7/1/2017 6:40:21 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How I tied the 2032R down for the trip home today. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86377/IMG-6801-243414.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86377/IMG-6802-243415.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86377/IMG-6803-243417.JPG And wow, you keep the extra strapping really neat.
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Posted: 7/1/2017 9:32:32 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You GOT IT!!!! SO Awesome! And wow, you keep the extra strapping really neat. |
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Posted: 7/1/2017 9:59:15 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks! I hate straps flapping in the wind. This is about the best way I've found to keep it neat and secured. 
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Posted: 7/7/2017 8:21:28 AM EDT
[#20]
My modified Harbor Freight trailer. Originally built it as a lightweight off road trailer for my Jeep and taking the family and dogs with us into the back country. It's now used with my little hatchback car semi often. It's a modified 4x8 folding Harbor Freight trailer. I cut two feet off the end turning it into a 4x6, moved the axle forward, and removed the folding hinges and welded all the joints together instead of relying on the bolts.
Still want to add a few gussets around to strengthen it a little more. I replaced the original axle with a 1 ton square tube unit and some real trailer sized tires/wheels. Replaced all the factory incandescent bulbs with LEDs all around, and added a folding landing gear to it as well. 
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Posted: 7/7/2017 8:21:56 AM EDT
[#21]
My modified Harbor Freight trailer. Originally built it as a lightweight off road trailer for my Jeep and taking the family and dogs with us into the back country. It's now used with my little hatchback car semi often. It's a modified 4x8 folding Harbor Freight trailer. I cut two feet off the end turning it into a 4x6, moved the axle forward, and removed the folding hinges and welded all the joints together instead of relying on the bolts.
Still want to add a few gussets around to strengthen it a little more. I replaced the original axle with a 1 ton square tube unit and some real trailer sized tires/wheels. Replaced all the factory incandescent bulbs with LEDs all around, and added a folding landing gear to it as well.
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Posted: 7/7/2017 8:39:59 AM EDT
[#22]
Notch and angle that trailer ramp already!!!
No excuses, do the work and enjoy the results! 
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Posted: 7/7/2017 10:05:56 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Actually, I'm planning to build a ball mount for my 1968 Allis Chalmers B110 garden tractor. It probably won't work for my 16 car hauler, not sure how much weight I'd need to add to the front of the garden tractor to be able to have enough weight on the B110 to steer. The small trailer would be great for moving dirt, mulch, gardening tools, etc. around the yard. It has about a 1200 pound limit. I have one of those cheap $79 yard carts you can buy at many big box stores, but it has a 200 pound limit, I shouldn't even sit on it. I've abused that cheap trailer, I'm surprised it's not all bent up to be unusable. Time to upgrade and use the 4x8 trailer behind the B110. Being able to move the small trailer around by hand is great for moving it to mow around it, or to yank it around to hook it up to the car. Did you add weight to your 316 to pull your 23 foot trailer? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
This weekend I found another reason to buy sand tubes for these smaller trailers. I needed to move my trailer about 50 yards. I put the sand tubes at the rear of the trailer, and lifting the tongue became effortless. I could have gone for a walk down the road pulling the trailer by hand. Of course this won't work with most of the trailers being discussed, but it works great when repositioning these smaller trailers. How small will depend on trailer, how smooth the surface is, and physical condition of the human mule. Being able to move the small trailer around by hand is great for moving it to mow around it, or to yank it around to hook it up to the car. Did you add weight to your 316 to pull your 23 foot trailer? The horse trailer needs about 150 pounds up front for me to be able to steer. |
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Posted: 7/7/2017 10:28:56 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My modified Harbor Freight trailer. Originally built it as a lightweight off road trailer for my Jeep and taking the family and dogs with us into the back country. It's now used with my little hatchback car semi often. It's a modified 4x8 folding Harbor Freight trailer. I cut two feet off the end turning it into a 4x6, moved the axle forward, and removed the folding hinges and welded all the joints together instead of relying on the bolts. Still want to add a few gussets around to strengthen it a little more. I replaced the original axle with a 1 ton square tube unit and some real trailer sized tires/wheels. Replaced all the factory incandescent bulbs with LEDs all around, and added a folding landing gear to it as well. https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13669682_10210392451593752_8250998852710837762_n.jpg?oh=25654c8676daf21409884c17d143a44d&oe=59C55A6D https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13900328_10210515854878757_4920289805453632182_n.jpg?oh=e637d7014f8b0626655e2644e8c1221c&oe=5A09FBFF http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170423/d5b1df274794eba252fb25250815b25d.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170416/b5a0b10922d5adb49fccc065224cb1b7.jpg |
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Posted: 7/7/2017 2:07:36 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My modified Harbor Freight trailer. Originally built it as a lightweight off road trailer for my Jeep and taking the family and dogs with us into the back country. It's now used with my little hatchback car semi often. It's a modified 4x8 folding Harbor Freight trailer. I cut two feet off the end turning it into a 4x6, moved the axle forward, and removed the folding hinges and welded all the joints together instead of relying on the bolts. Still want to add a few gussets around to strengthen it a little more. I replaced the original axle with a 1 ton square tube unit and some real trailer sized tires/wheels. Replaced all the factory incandescent bulbs with LEDs all around, and added a folding landing gear to it as well. https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13669682_10210392451593752_8250998852710837762_n.jpg?oh=25654c8676daf21409884c17d143a44d&oe=59C55A6D https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13900328_10210515854878757_4920289805453632182_n.jpg?oh=e637d7014f8b0626655e2644e8c1221c&oe=5A09FBFF http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170423/d5b1df274794eba252fb25250815b25d.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170416/b5a0b10922d5adb49fccc065224cb1b7.jpg Some questions: Why did you take that little trailer and modify (I read completely rebuild) it rather than buy one? Did you want something you could not get without having it custom made? And it sounds like you kept, basically, the frame, axle, (though you moved the axle) and deck. I know there's a certain satisfaction to "because I could" 
But I'm wondering if that's why, or if you wanted something you could not get without dumping money for a custom build. |
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Posted: 7/7/2017 2:10:10 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Notch and angle that trailer ramp already!!! No excuses, do the work and enjoy the results! You're right.
Right now I'm scrambling to keep the yard mowed and I'm really behind in a lot of responsibilities. That's why I'm bumping my threads with not much new....I'm trying to just put out the fires in front of me. 
Honestly though, I'm sort of thinking about both. I notice that little tiny ramp addition has a pretty steep angle on it (from what I can see) which might help a little with the breakover, but I doubt it's enough to really smooth it out. Still, I hate hitting that bottom rail when I load, so I might want both now that I've seen that. |
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Posted: 7/7/2017 3:36:18 PM EDT
[#27]
Kitties:
If you don't have time to modify your gate, but still need to use your trailer all the time, just get some of those drive-on ramps for working on a vehicle. Put them BEHIND your rear wheels, and back up on them. It will DRASTICALLY reduce the angle that is causing you issues. |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 12:11:58 AM EDT
[#28]
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It will look like this on your hubs (the very center of your axle/wheel) http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/bbi/rep-bearingbuddy.jpg You really only see them as "standard" equipment on boat trailers, unless whomever built the trailer goes the extra mile. ETA: They usually have caps on them like such: http://www.trailerdepotofsarasota.com/images/bearing-buddy-2717-with-bearing-buddy-bras.jpg 
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Posted: 7/13/2017 12:50:50 AM EDT
[#29]
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Pics are worth a thousand words. How they work should be clear. Ratchet binder: http://www.awdirect.com/product_images/large/9jh81_as02.jpg Lever binder: http://www.awdirect.com/product_images/large/9fga8_as01.jpg maybe a stupid question but I like to understand.
It looks like the threads for the two ends are going opposite ways, which means the whole thing tightens when the ratchet is cranked. Is that correct? Out of interest, what is the release for this system? I do not immediately see it. |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 6:42:28 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just looking closely at this ratchet binder. maybe a stupid question but I like to understand.
It looks like the threads for the two ends are going opposite ways, which means the whole thing tightens when the ratchet is cranked. Is that correct? Out of interest, what is the release for this system? I do not immediately see it. |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 9:39:17 PM EDT
[#31]
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Correct. The ratchet can be reversed just like a notmal ratchet. Run it the other way to loosen it to a point to where the chains can be released. Does that mean you have to spiin it all the way around the mechanism? When y'all say ratchet, I think crank and back, crank and back, like the ratchets I'm used to. |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 9:56:04 PM EDT
[#32]
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So there's not a switch to flip, like on the ratchets I use on cars? Does that mean you have to spiin it all the way around the mechanism? When y'all say ratchet, I think crank and back, crank and back, like the ratchets I'm used to. 
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Posted: 7/13/2017 10:15:46 PM EDT
[#33]
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Nope, there is a switch just like on a normal ratchet Sounds like, though, that anything heavy enough for that is too heavy for my trailer.
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Posted: 7/16/2017 1:08:45 PM EDT
[#34]
So yea........this came in on a trailer, just didnt take the picture like it should have...
1955 F100 with a 272 Y Block, ONLY 60k original miles |
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Posted: 7/18/2017 12:47:55 AM EDT
[#35]
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So yea........this came in on a trailer, just didnt take the picture like it should have... https://images.discordapp.net/attachments/330520386716303362/336174585651134464/20170716_102837.jpg 1955 F100 with a 272 Y Block, ONLY 60k original miles 
I would be your fangirl. |
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Posted: 7/19/2017 9:51:26 PM EDT
[#36]
I'll actually be closer Friday when I ride us58 all the way out to fancy gap
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Posted: 7/21/2017 10:14:35 PM EDT
[#37]
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I'll actually be closer Friday when I ride us58 all the way out to fancy gap
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Posted: 7/23/2017 8:53:50 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
58 does not come through my town. |
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Posted: 7/23/2017 9:26:12 AM EDT
[#39]
This car didn't move in the long trip we took because I checked tightness a couple times. The straps are too long and I will buy a proper set. Instead of the strap going through the wheel, proper straps have a wheel loop and a reduced length ratchet with the hook built in. This shortens the straps a lot and allows a single strap at each point. I say this because my friend used the same setup, but attached to his frame. His truck walked sideways on his trailer and came within a quarter inch of damaging paint. On a slightly longer vehicle, these straps were just fine.
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Posted: 7/23/2017 11:00:40 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This car didn't move in the long trip we took because I checked tightness a couple times. The straps are too long and I will buy a proper set. Instead of the strap going through the wheel, proper straps have a wheel loop and a reduced length ratchet with the hook built in. This shortens the straps a lot and allows a single strap at each point. I say this because my friend used the same setup, but attached to his frame. His truck walked sideways on his trailer and came within a quarter inch of damaging paint. On a slightly longer vehicle, these straps were just fine. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/41996/trailer-260840.jpg We have a lot of car shows around here, and I love looking at those older ones. |
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Posted: 7/23/2017 11:47:27 AM EDT
[#41]
I did a frame off over 15 years ago and just refreshed it about two years ago. I did every bit of the work except for the trans rebuild. I also put the lift on that truck. That is actually the wife's car and she has had if around 29 years. The truck is her daily driver. I drive a 1947 Chevy pickup or a Harley every day.
The front of the trailer has a hitch receiver mounted on it. My winch is on a hitch mount so I can remove it entirely for storage. It is actually on there now, but you can't see it from the angle. |
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Posted: 7/26/2017 5:34:57 PM EDT
[#42]
So does anyone here have a H&H MXC ? I am really looking for a good car trailer and saw a good deal on a 17 H&H or for same money I found a few PJ 5" channel car trailers and trying to justify the buy along with finding the extra $
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Posted: 7/30/2017 11:14:50 AM EDT
[#43]
anyone? trying to decide on a tilt deck trailer like the H&H speedloader or if I should get just a regular flatdeck with beaver tail? I have found some manual tilt speedloaders for around 2600+ and trying to think if one would work better than another ?
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Posted: 7/30/2017 11:56:21 AM EDT
[#44]
OP, what kinda trailer you got and what do you use it for?
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Posted: 7/30/2017 3:43:37 PM EDT
[#45]
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OP, what kinda trailer you got and what do you use it for? |
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Posted: 8/13/2017 12:36:50 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP, what kinda trailer you got and what do you use it for? I got a Lawrimore single axle 6.5 X 12 foot trailer with a single gate on the back. A couple of times per week at least, I haul my mower, and I want to get dedicated straps for it, since I always park it in the same spot. However I'm about to start hauling all kinds of stuff, as I'm putting up a building, so will have lots of questions coming up, I expect. I've got to get some better straps. I have so much going on that I keep putting off the research to figure out what I need and where to get good ones for a good price.
I'll try to get pics this week of how I'm tying down my mower. I'm interested in those little strap loop thingies I saw in some picks that could either stay hooked to my mower or that would be easy to hook in, so I don't booger up my straps with the way I'm hooking into the back of the mower. Pics to follow. |
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Posted: 8/13/2017 2:24:51 PM EDT
[#47]
The straps on the front will work for short a distance for a long haul I would put something under it where the strap goes over the steel the edges can damage your straps or cut through them I know from years tying down loads with straps. Another way to use up the excess strap is to when the strap is slightly lose take the tail set it on top of the strap against the rachet and tighten roll it like you did and use two plastic wire ties around the roll one at the top and one by the rachet.
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Posted: 8/13/2017 2:36:33 PM EDT
[#48]
I was referring to Pavelows post
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Posted: 8/14/2017 8:49:13 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The straps on the front will work for short a distance for a long haul I would put something under it where the strap goes over the steel the edges can damage your straps or cut through them I know from years tying down loads with straps. Another way to use up the excess strap is to when the strap is slightly lose take the tail set it on top of the strap against the rachet and tighten roll it like you did and use two plastic wire ties around the roll one at the top and one by the rachet. I never thought to use zip ties to secure the loose straps, thanks! |
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Posted: 8/30/2017 12:09:05 AM EDT
[#50]
bump.
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