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Posted: 1/31/2016 8:00:37 PM EDT
First off I do not mean to offend anyone calling homesteading a hobby but a hobby is a precursor before it becomes a lifestyle.

This is the boat I am in. Getting started.

Here is where I am as of right now

I live in a suburb inside city limits on a rental property. So based on these little parameters shows there's not a ton I can do but if I can start somewhere the better.

Within at most (I hope 2 years) my family and I will be living outside of city limits and just live for ourselves.

My question is where should I start in the lines of learning skills. What things should I focus now so it will be easier down the road.

Here's what I have done thus far:
Collecting firewood: While to most this is a very mundane task but for me it was a wake up call on the tools I already had were inadequate for this task
Growing plants from seed: Another mundane task to many But if I can grow a plant from a seed there is almost no point of homesteading later on.
basic car repair: perhaps not a true homesteader skill but I look at it in the self reliance category that homesteading is all about
Cooking more meals at home: which is probably the most difficult of them all due to the fact of my wife and I work every day (when she is off I'm working)

This is my start by no means what I only want to do. What other things should I try?

Any questions about what I can or cannot do on the property by all means ask
Link Posted: 1/31/2016 8:48:57 PM EDT
[#1]
I think you could start canning in season fruits/veggies. That's a critical skill.

Sounds like you are just getting into it so I would try to get the best tools/equipment possible the first time. Do your research and hit garage sales, you'll be amazed what's out there once you know what to look for.

What are your goals for homesteading? Just an easier going life? Self sufficiency? Adventure? I'd reall recommend a book called "modern homesteading" by a YouTuber named Wranglerstar, it puts forward these questions and ideas much more eloquently than I could. His channel is also great.

Disclaimer, I'm not a "homesteader" either right now but am trying myself to build the skills and equipment I'll need. I'm about 8.5 years out from it
Link Posted: 1/31/2016 8:57:14 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I think you could start canning in season fruits/veggies. That's a critical skill.

Sounds like you are just getting into it so I would try to get the best tools/equipment possible the first time. Do your research and hit garage sales, you'll be amazed what's out there once you know what to look for.

What are your goals for homesteading? Just an easier going life? Self sufficiency? Adventure? I'd reall recommend a book called "modern homesteading" by a YouTuber named Wranglerstar, it puts forward these questions and ideas much more eloquently than I could. His channel is also great.

Disclaimer, I'm not a "homesteader" either right now but am trying myself to build the skills and equipment I'll need. I'm about 8.5 years out from it
View Quote


Ive been always trying to can but then something comes up lol

I need to buy jars and can some regular stuff at the grocery store just to get the skill down thanks on that

For myself I would say more self sufficiency if anything.

And thanks for the book recommendation

Tool wise in the lines of basic wrenches socket etc I did my share of spending HD during black Friday. But there is always something else
Link Posted: 1/31/2016 10:25:39 PM EDT
[#3]
On the topic of cooking, you need a chest freezer.  Cook meals 3/4 the way done and freeze them.  Look at the frozen meals from the store and try to freeze them similar to those meals.  



We make 14 servings of chili at a time.    12 go into freezer bags and get frozen flat for east storage.
Link Posted: 1/31/2016 11:09:41 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
On the topic of cooking, you need a chest freezer.  Cook meals 3/4 the way done and freeze them.  Look at the frozen meals from the store and try to freeze them similar to those meals.  

We make 14 servings of chili at a time.    12 go into freezer bags and get frozen flat for east storage.
View Quote


Interesting way to store chili....I may have to try that. I always can mine extra


Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 12:17:27 AM EDT
[#5]
Buy the book Encyclopedia of Country Living by Carla Emery.  

A big part of homesteading and being self sufficient is producing your own food.  A lot of cities will allow you to have chickens, but no roosters.  Getting some chickens is a great way to learn about feeding, housing and generally caring for animals.  

Another important thing to know is general home repair.  Repair people, professionals, will sometimes charge extra to drive out into the country.  You'll end up building your own animal pens, so a knowledge of construction helps.  

Another thing you'll need to know how to build is fencing. What material you fence with and how you build it are determined by what you're keeping in or out.

Take a look at the forums at www.tractorbynet.com Probably the best tractor/homesteading forum out there.
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 2:02:36 AM EDT
[#6]
How big is your rental?



How on board is the wife/family?




Right now I'm writing a book of sorts, meant for future generations about starting into mini homesteading, sort of a memoirs, tips and tricks we have learned the hard way. I'll look for some useful exerpts for you when I am on my laptop tomorrow.
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 2:36:42 AM EDT
[#7]
I'd suggest paying attention to gardening.  It's hard work, and discouraging sometimes, but it will help keep you focused on the big picture.  But if you scale up, you can raise other critters from your feed, and supplement that with some lettuce, tomatoes, peppers...  You're probably handy with a rifle, but buy or get real good with a little 22.  Think about a dog for protection, but it's another big cog in your machine that can wait if needed.

Keep checking landwatch.com or landsof (whatever state you wanna live in).com.  Those place will help keep you focused on your big prize.  Consider your relationship to a church.  Most rural folks are believers, and the church is still a huge safety net and social rallying point.
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 10:08:54 AM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 11:05:21 AM EDT
[#9]
If you were snowed in on the East Coast, I'd suggest reading some books. You might be able to do stuff at this time of the year.

"Five Acres and Independence" by M. G. Kains was a good read and I think it's public domain now.

Like other said, food preservation such as canning or dehydrating and gardening would be great starts. I can't imagine a rental agreement that wouldn't allow a small garden.
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 1:48:56 PM EDT
[#10]
Gardening...you're in a rental so, pots, learn to grow..maintain viable crops, tomatoes, peppers, onions, a few corn, micro fruit and or nut trees that can be rolled indoors during inclement weather, mushrooms in closet, learn what different crop issues look like..HERBS,,,what they for both culinary and medical purpose..
get books..REAL BOOKS on survival issues, gardening, animal husbandry, learn carpentry, furniture building, cabinet making, brick/stone masonry. learn
to maintain and repair your car, quad, cycle etc As you're a suburbanite. Exercise, walk, run, jog, climb, jump rope, ride a bike,, lots of work in a subsistence/self reliant lifestyle and optimum health and prime physicality is a huge headstart and knowing you can jump on a 10 speed and go 20 mi with out thinking about it can
be a lifesaver and lastly find a partner who'll roll in the mud, break a nail and can struggle with getting the paint and cow shit out of her hair or you're in a losing relationship from the start..

I restarted homesteading as an old man with ill health and wish I had continued what I started 40 years ago on the physical stuff...but work, kids, wives got in the way..

Link Posted: 2/1/2016 5:07:28 PM EDT
[#11]
Wow I didn't expect these many replies. I will read and reply accordingly
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 5:17:13 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
On the topic of cooking, you need a chest freezer.  Cook meals 3/4 the way done and freeze them.  Look at the frozen meals from the store and try to freeze them similar to those meals.  

We make 14 servings of chili at a time.    12 go into freezer bags and get frozen flat for east storage.
View Quote


Chest freezer is on the plans, it a matter of setting up the space (need to work on my addition truck before that I have to clean the randomness of inside the garage but besides having a chest freezer we have an addition fridge in the garage. Fridge portion primarily additional drinks freezer section typically long term freezing.

Typically I usually only freeze soups (I'm the soup guy) that in turn that goes for lunches. there is limited space in the freezer now.

Thank you for the suggestions
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 5:26:07 PM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Buy the book Encyclopedia of Country Living by Carla Emery.  

A big part of homesteading and being self sufficient is producing your own food.  A lot of cities will allow you to have chickens, but no roosters.  Getting some chickens is a great way to learn about feeding, housing and generally caring for animals.  

Another important thing to know is general home repair.  Repair people, professionals, will sometimes charge extra to drive out into the country.  You'll end up building your own animal pens, so a knowledge of construction helps.  

Another thing you'll need to know how to build is fencing. What material you fence with and how you build it are determined by what you're keeping in or out.

Take a look at the forums at www.tractorbynet.com Probably the best tractor/homesteading forum out there.
View Quote


Thanks for the book suggestion

The only thing I will have to look up is the "livestock" for my particular city. Last I heard that chickens were considered livestock. But I don't believe rabbits where.

In the lines of house repair, I could learn more. On a side note Ive had to repair my "fair share" on this property because the owner doesn't do anything

Fencing for sure is something I have to learn. Ive had to build a barricade (wont deem a fence) for my dogs. Even though I absolutely hate when they get out It teaches me what I have to different. (Friendly tip, if your dog(s) can get through anything can get through)

And great another forum lol

Thanks
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 5:29:35 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Thanks for the book suggestion

The only thing I will have to look up is the "livestock" for my particular city. Last I heard that chickens were considered livestock. But I don't believe rabbits where.

In the lines of house repair, I could learn more. On a side note Ive had to repair my "fair share" on this property because the owner doesn't do anything

Fencing for sure is something I have to learn. Ive had to build a barricade (wont deem a fence) for my dogs. Even though I absolutely hate when they get out It teaches me what I have to different. (Friendly tip, if your dog(s) can get through anything can get through)

And great another forum lol

Thanks
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Buy the book Encyclopedia of Country Living by Carla Emery.  

A big part of homesteading and being self sufficient is producing your own food.  A lot of cities will allow you to have chickens, but no roosters.  Getting some chickens is a great way to learn about feeding, housing and generally caring for animals.  

Another important thing to know is general home repair.  Repair people, professionals, will sometimes charge extra to drive out into the country.  You'll end up building your own animal pens, so a knowledge of construction helps.  

Another thing you'll need to know how to build is fencing. What material you fence with and how you build it are determined by what you're keeping in or out.

Take a look at the forums at www.tractorbynet.com Probably the best tractor/homesteading forum out there.


Thanks for the book suggestion

The only thing I will have to look up is the "livestock" for my particular city. Last I heard that chickens were considered livestock. But I don't believe rabbits where.

In the lines of house repair, I could learn more. On a side note Ive had to repair my "fair share" on this property because the owner doesn't do anything

Fencing for sure is something I have to learn. Ive had to build a barricade (wont deem a fence) for my dogs. Even though I absolutely hate when they get out It teaches me what I have to different. (Friendly tip, if your dog(s) can get through anything can get through)

And great another forum lol

Thanks


Many cities have special rules for chickens outside of livestock. Worth checking out if your landlord is okay with it. Two or three hens and a rooster can provide a lot of education.
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 5:36:27 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
How big is your rental?

How on board is the wife/family?


Right now I'm writing a book of sorts, meant for future generations about starting into mini homesteading, sort of a memoirs, tips and tricks we have learned the hard way. I'll look for some useful exerpts for you when I am on my laptop tomorrow.
View Quote


The whole property itself, not that big (by my standard but I use to live on 30 arces of land in WI) If you need exact measurements I can get them for you but its you typical single floor  house with a front and back yard. Doing  anything happens in the front yard because my dogs own the back and rather not destroyed.

My wife is fairly onboard. Ironically the 1st season of Doomsday preppers when it was new (yeah I know the show is a bit out there) she finally got out of the "city" living kind of deal (we use to eat out a lot and live in a much bigger city) But she understood why to keep something on hand. Now she is much more on board but her main concerns is the family income. She brings the bacon while I have "the fun". My two kids to be honest I'm unsure where they stand. Oldest is 8 youngest is 5. The oldest does like trying new things like paperbrick making (which I will have a review on this in the next few weeks on everything from materials process and temps) The 5 year old is who I'm most concerned about coming on board but hopefully the trip to WI and going in the woods and camping and letting him do stuff will get him on board.

All in all my family isn't against but do not have there heart in it but that could be based on me. I think I'm in the mentality if I wont teach it who will? So yes you can blame me for my family lack of progression at this moment in time
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 5:50:18 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I'd suggest paying attention to gardening.  It's hard work, and discouraging sometimes, but it will help keep you focused on the big picture.  But if you scale up, you can raise other critters from your feed, and supplement that with some lettuce, tomatoes, peppers...  You're probably handy with a rifle, but buy or get real good with a little 22.  Think about a dog for protection, but it's another big cog in your machine that can wait if needed.

Keep checking landwatch.com or landsof (whatever state you wanna live in).com.  Those place will help keep you focused on your big prize.  Consider your relationship to a church.  Most rural folks are believers, and the church is still a huge safety net and social rallying point.
View Quote


Started seeding my peppers (indoor jiffy green house) and will transplant (when ready) to my Xmas tree totes I will convert into my beds (a heck of a lot cheaper than going with a wood option.

I have debated on the .22 Rimfire. I'm considerable against still because I cant get ammo for it. Ive been looking for a small lightweight firearm. Been debating maybe on something like a .22 Hornet. Even though its not a high abundant round I am set up for reloding.

I have 4 dogs (which having 1 at all is un heard of on a rental property) they bark and go after just about anything.

Thanks for your suggestions
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 5:51:40 PM EDT
[#17]
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Quoted:


Try a "no processed foods" diet for a few weeks. (You can define the parameters to your comfort level.) Jettisoning the convenience of pre-prepared foodstuffs can be an eye-opening experience for folks who have never done it.

Good luck!
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Quoted:
Quoted:

Cooking more meals at home: which is probably the most difficult of them all due to the fact of my wife and I work every day (when she is off I'm working)


Try a "no processed foods" diet for a few weeks. (You can define the parameters to your comfort level.) Jettisoning the convenience of pre-prepared foodstuffs can be an eye-opening experience for folks who have never done it.

Good luck!


For sure it is very difficult. but since when my wife and I were married to now we started maybe 90% of eating out to about 45-50% eating out so we are getting there.
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 5:53:57 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
If you were snowed in on the East Coast, I'd suggest reading some books. You might be able to do stuff at this time of the year.

"Five Acres and Independence" by M. G. Kains was a good read and I think it's public domain now.

Like other said, food preservation such as canning or dehydrating and gardening would be great starts. I can't imagine a rental agreement that wouldn't allow a small garden.
View Quote


Being from the Midwest I will never be snowed in lol

We have dehydrated some random meat just unsure of extending the shelf life past a couple of weeks (found mold on my jerky) but ive played around with dehydrating not full into it yet (need a better dehydrator)
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 5:57:18 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Gardening...you're in a rental so, pots, learn to grow..maintain viable crops, tomatoes, peppers, onions, a few corn, micro fruit and or nut trees that can be rolled indoors during inclement weather, mushrooms in closet, learn what different crop issues look like..HERBS,,,what they for both culinary and medical purpose..
get books..REAL BOOKS on survival issues, gardening, animal husbandry, learn carpentry, furniture building, cabinet making, brick/stone masonry. learn
to maintain and repair your car, quad, cycle etc As you're a suburbanite. Exercise, walk, run, jog, climb, jump rope, ride a bike,, lots of work in a subsistence/self reliant lifestyle and optimum health and prime physicality is a huge headstart and knowing you can jump on a 10 speed and go 20 mi with out thinking about it can
be a lifesaver and lastly find a partner who'll roll in the mud, break a nail and can struggle with getting the paint and cow shit out of her hair or you're in a losing relationship from the start..

I restarted homesteading as an old man with ill health and wish I had continued what I started 40 years ago on the physical stuff...but work, kids, wives got in the way..

View Quote


I mentioned in a few other posts but will reply in yours. I bought a couple of Xmas Tree totes. Fairly long and deep. My dad gave me the idea on this. about $25 a tote which is not bad consider the cost of some of the potted plants

I think the biggest suggestion I'm taking from you is exercise. I'm out of shape and it wont help not loosing weight now when I get my property (Ironically the property I'm looking at the gentleman just called to wonder if we were still interested in it)
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 6:39:24 PM EDT
[#20]
Raising rabbits in the city is something that you can do.

ETA
I can't spell...
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 10:16:08 PM EDT
[#21]
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Quoted:
Raising rabits in the city is something that you can do.
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I've been looking at this for some great detail hopefully it's not against my rental agreement.
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 10:41:16 PM EDT
[#22]
You phrased it a good way using the word hobby.  It is dang hard to really hop right into homesteading and have your land make your living.



You are basically going to pick and choose what is worth the effort and time to do, vs. what is worth paying for at the store or on the magical net that lets the pretty brown truck deliver your goods right to your door.



I would read on the net or buy some used books anytime you are looking at doing something.  There are some easy plans out there for making some shelves using 2x4s and plywood but some of the basic cabinetry books have stuff that might make you happier with the outcome.  I like to surf the net for ideas, lots of ease hopping around and searching ideas and what not.  But once I settle onto something I prefer an actual book in front of me, or at least a print out.  



There are a lot of free kindle books on stuff like gardening and herbs and what not, but you have to catch em when they are free.  Lots of sites track the books, you just need to find a site or three you check in on and get em while they are free.



And as with most stuff, there is an alternative if you don't own a kindle and don't want to own a kindle.  You can put the program on your computer and still read em.  And if you have pdf's that you want on the kindle, there are programs for that.



The reading section of this site has a nice big list of stuff.



I also recomend watching mother earth news, they will have a half price sale on their dvd/thumbdrive of all the old magazines and articles and I consider it well worth the cost.  Backwoods home magazine is another one to look at.
Link Posted: 2/1/2016 10:44:38 PM EDT
[#23]
I kind of browsed through the thread and saw rabbits and chickens mentioned, but what I don't see mentioned is butchering. Butchering your own meat is an art, one that's not possessed by many people. More for the future when you're rural living, but its a needed skill for homesteading IMO. Glad I learned from my grandfather, and I'll pass it on to the next generation.
Link Posted: 2/2/2016 2:34:40 AM EDT
[#24]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


I kind of browsed through the thread and saw rabbits and chickens mentioned, but what I don't see mentioned is butchering. Butchering your own meat is an art, one that's not possessed by many people. More for the future when you're rural living, but its a needed skill for homesteading IMO. Glad I learned from my grandfather, and I'll pass it on to the next generation.
View Quote
Be careful getting the kids, wife in on that yet. As recovering city folk, it will likely turn them off immediately.

 



But yes, you should connect with your food.
Link Posted: 2/2/2016 10:32:36 AM EDT
[#25]
So OP, what are your goals with this exactly?



Are you looking to live off the land?




Make your living off the land? If so, what are your income expectations? You still need income, and more than you think even with this lifestyle. It rarely pays for itself and usually requires either cash crops/services or outside income.




Are you willing/ready to ditch electronics? You won't have time for video games or TV.




Are you and your family prepared to invest the TIME it takes to maintain everything, produce and preserve?




How much will your wife take part, since she is the one that currently brings in the household income?




As far as working on your car not a true homesteader thing, you are waaay off on that one. Repairing your own equipment is absolutely vital. You cannot afford to bring everything in every time anything breaks. If you cannot rebuild a Briggs 5hp, you need more practice. You will come to depend on a lot of equipment which will always need maintenance, repair, modification. On that note, learn metalworking. Minimum tools are a BFH, large slip joint pliers, torch (did you know you can use propane instead of acetylene?), welder (and associated supplies). You also need a drill, drill doctor (to sharpen drill bits), 4" angle grinder, saws-all just off the top of my head as to what you need to start.




A good book might be: Mini-Farming

Because we currently have about 5 acres, and we live on a hill so flat-ish garden space is limited, we have adopted SOME of these methods.




I (and probably most others that do this sort of thing) grew up on a farm. This is all second nature to me. I applaud you for giving it a try with no background. I will tell you that odds are against you. The vast majority cannot handle the work and dedication that this life brings. That said, I wouldn't have it any other way. If it were feasible, I would gladly give up my business and go full time farming if I could. The sad truth is it just isn't that simple anymore.
Link Posted: 2/2/2016 1:33:20 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
So OP, what are your goals with this exactly?

Are you looking to live off the land?


Make your living off the land? If so, what are your income expectations? You still need income, and more than you think even with this lifestyle. It rarely pays for itself and usually requires either cash crops/services or outside income.


Are you willing/ready to ditch electronics? You won't have time for video games or TV.


Are you and your family prepared to invest the TIME it takes to maintain everything, produce and preserve?


How much will your wife take part, since she is the one that currently brings in the household income?


View Quote


My goal is to be more self reliant. yes I know it is a very general term but will explain. I don't like the fact in essence todays society that everything can be bought as convenience but doing yourself is almost discourage (getting political but mainly by the left nowadays). I want to be able to still live without depending fully on 3rd party entities (not referring to government but from the simplest form Walmart etc)

Do I want to live off the land? I think I do, but what I do know (reference to first question) is to be more self reliant. Lets say 10% of my family comes from homesteading (food, income, crafting) I already know that I'm doing better than a majority of the population. Where as if something bad happens ie wife getting fired to the extreme SHTF we will be better off still.

As it comes for income from straight homesteading, I haven't thought of it to be truly honest. Would I want us to live on it sure but to be honest at this moment in time unrealistic. I know my wife likes to bake and do crafts and always wanted to try to make her goods for profit.

As for electronics I'm already good without them. Heck the biggest change that my family did (which my inlaws cannot believe we did this) was rid cable and only have hulu amazon and Netflix. We have saved a decent sum by doing this.

I'm not sure how much my wife will partake in this but I will put it this way, she is not against it at all. Mind you currently we will still do quite well if I'm not working (was a stay at home dad for awhile) If I stop working it will not hurt us at all. I'm only workings just to help pay off more bills off faster.
Link Posted: 2/2/2016 1:36:28 PM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I kind of browsed through the thread and saw rabbits and chickens mentioned, but what I don't see mentioned is butchering. Butchering your own meat is an art, one that's not possessed by many people. More for the future when you're rural living, but its a needed skill for homesteading IMO. Glad I learned from my grandfather, and I'll pass it on to the next generation.
View Quote


Ive been trying on whole chicken and deboning. I'm a butcher alright butchering that meat and leaving more on the bone. lol

Still trying to teach myself but might just have to go to a butcher
Link Posted: 2/2/2016 2:08:47 PM EDT
[#28]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
My goal is to be more self reliant. yes I know it is a very general term but will explain. I don't like the fact in essence todays society that everything can be bought as convenience but doing yourself is almost discourage (getting political but mainly by the left nowadays). I want to be able to still live without depending fully on 3rd party entities (not referring to government but from the simplest form Walmart etc) I would start off with learning to cook from scratch. It is easy to store bulk ingredients. Eating from a pantry is one of the cornerstones of homesteading. Start acquiring the tools to do so. Kitchen Aid mixers, wheat mill (I recommend the WonderMill electric), root cellar (can be done in a basement with non-permanent walls and a window) if you have a cold enough climate, etc.



Do I want to live off the land? I think I do, but what I do know (reference to first question) is to be more self reliant. Lets say 10% of my family comes from homesteading (food, income, crafting) I already know that I'm doing better than a majority of the population. Where as if something bad happens ie wife getting fired to the extreme SHTF we will be better off still. Yes, but if you are suburban, you don't want to be anywhere near there in a SHTF scenario. I would leave. If it is just your personal economy, you are better off. Not so much in a widespread SHTF event. Those other people become hungry, and will promptly relieve you of your supplies. Once you go rural, then I would think about hardening the property. Redundant systems for food/water/heat, etc. Take a look at what is worth doing yourself, and why. Really, veggies don't cost much (unless you buy organic), and it is better to put your effort into things like chickens for meat and eggs. Use the garden area to grow supplemental food for the animals, etc. Prioritize. You can expand to other things, an a veggie garden as you have time/resources/room.



As it comes for income from straight homesteading, I haven't thought of it to be truly honest. Would I want us to live on it sure but to be honest at this moment in time unrealistic. I know my wife likes to bake and do crafts and always wanted to try to make her goods for profit. Its not realistic in today's world. Only if you inherited the land is it even possible, or were rich when you started so you have no debt/bills and have good equipment. Then it would take little income to coast.



As for electronics I'm already good without them. Heck the biggest change that my family did (which my inlaws cannot believe we did this) was rid cable and only have hulu amazon and Netflix. We have saved a decent sum by doing this. We cut cable. Wife convinced me to put in an antennae. Regret that.



I'm not sure how much my wife will partake in this but I will put it this way, she is not against it at all. Mind you currently we will still do quite well if I'm not working (was a stay at home dad for awhile) If I stop working it will not hurt us at all. I'm only workings just to help pay off more bills off faster. If you raise a significant portion of your food, it actually makes financial sense to stay home and do that vs a mediocre job. Just remember that there are no guarantees with anything agriculture.
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Quoted:



Quoted:

So OP, what are your goals with this exactly?



Are you looking to live off the land?





Make your living off the land? If so, what are your income expectations? You still need income, and more than you think even with this lifestyle. It rarely pays for itself and usually requires either cash crops/services or outside income.





Are you willing/ready to ditch electronics? You won't have time for video games or TV.





Are you and your family prepared to invest the TIME it takes to maintain everything, produce and preserve?





How much will your wife take part, since she is the one that currently brings in the household income?









My goal is to be more self reliant. yes I know it is a very general term but will explain. I don't like the fact in essence todays society that everything can be bought as convenience but doing yourself is almost discourage (getting political but mainly by the left nowadays). I want to be able to still live without depending fully on 3rd party entities (not referring to government but from the simplest form Walmart etc) I would start off with learning to cook from scratch. It is easy to store bulk ingredients. Eating from a pantry is one of the cornerstones of homesteading. Start acquiring the tools to do so. Kitchen Aid mixers, wheat mill (I recommend the WonderMill electric), root cellar (can be done in a basement with non-permanent walls and a window) if you have a cold enough climate, etc.



Do I want to live off the land? I think I do, but what I do know (reference to first question) is to be more self reliant. Lets say 10% of my family comes from homesteading (food, income, crafting) I already know that I'm doing better than a majority of the population. Where as if something bad happens ie wife getting fired to the extreme SHTF we will be better off still. Yes, but if you are suburban, you don't want to be anywhere near there in a SHTF scenario. I would leave. If it is just your personal economy, you are better off. Not so much in a widespread SHTF event. Those other people become hungry, and will promptly relieve you of your supplies. Once you go rural, then I would think about hardening the property. Redundant systems for food/water/heat, etc. Take a look at what is worth doing yourself, and why. Really, veggies don't cost much (unless you buy organic), and it is better to put your effort into things like chickens for meat and eggs. Use the garden area to grow supplemental food for the animals, etc. Prioritize. You can expand to other things, an a veggie garden as you have time/resources/room.



As it comes for income from straight homesteading, I haven't thought of it to be truly honest. Would I want us to live on it sure but to be honest at this moment in time unrealistic. I know my wife likes to bake and do crafts and always wanted to try to make her goods for profit. Its not realistic in today's world. Only if you inherited the land is it even possible, or were rich when you started so you have no debt/bills and have good equipment. Then it would take little income to coast.



As for electronics I'm already good without them. Heck the biggest change that my family did (which my inlaws cannot believe we did this) was rid cable and only have hulu amazon and Netflix. We have saved a decent sum by doing this. We cut cable. Wife convinced me to put in an antennae. Regret that.



I'm not sure how much my wife will partake in this but I will put it this way, she is not against it at all. Mind you currently we will still do quite well if I'm not working (was a stay at home dad for awhile) If I stop working it will not hurt us at all. I'm only workings just to help pay off more bills off faster. If you raise a significant portion of your food, it actually makes financial sense to stay home and do that vs a mediocre job. Just remember that there are no guarantees with anything agriculture.
See above in red.

 
Link Posted: 2/2/2016 2:15:52 PM EDT
[#29]
An excerpt from my "book". Keep in mind, still in first draft. Still just organizing ideas. This a direct cut/paste, formatting may not be quite right.



This may help if you want to start a garden from scratch.











Chapter 4: Homesteading Phase 1:
Establish a garden.


















I didn't touch on
gardens at all during the financial preparation section, because I
think that not only does gardening require a chapter all of its own
(if not multiple), having a garden is living situation dependent and
is a lifestyle choice. In almost any situation you can have a couple
container plants of peppers or spinach going, but they won't supply
you with meaningful calorie intake. A meaningful garden can provide
you with meaningful calories and nutrition, but gardening takes a
significant initial investment of money, time, and effort. Busting up
virgin soil and the initial tool investment is not trivial, at least
not if you are doing a garden that has any chance of sustaining you
and your family.


















Managing a garden
of size is a team effort. Whenever you have a spouse, you must work
as a team. You plan as a team. You must both agree to a budget for
the investment, and who is in charge of certain chores if they are to
be divided. Be sure your spouse in on the same page, and you have the
same goals. I admit, <wife> was less than enthusiastic about a large
garden, but she understood why. She is now on board with it.

















The first thing to
do before you ever think of putting plow to soil is proper
preparation. Start with research. Research will be a common theme
that I have employed constantly. Since we live in the information
age, there is no reason why we should jump into something completely
blind.


















Perform a site
survey of your property. This doesn't have to be professional, but
build yourself even a crude topographical map. Look at where any
trees or buildings are that would shade your garden. This may be
impossible to avoid such as at our farm, but try to minimize the
shade. Check the soil, and have it tested to see what it needs. Look
at drainage. Consider over-spray if you are adjacent to industrial
farm land. Consider how flat the area is. Take if from me, it is hard
working a garden on a hill, but proper drainage is also important to
avoid your garden becoming a swamp. How close are you to the house?
What about irrigation water supply? Can you get your garden equipment
in and out easily? Once you settle on the best area available, then
consider growth. How will your homestead grow. How will you expand
your garden? Are you planting fruit trees or strawberry patches or
perhaps raspberries? What about grape vines? Are you considering
livestock? Do you need pasture area?


















I sketched an
over-head view of our property and actually drew out where I was
planning on putting everything. Keep in mind that this plan is likely
to change. You may get to know your property better, perhaps the tree
line will change. Who knows. Don't be afraid to change things, but
just keep in mind that once you plant trees, establish gardens, put
in berry patches, build permanent buildings, etc., they don't move
easily. If you are still confident in your garden location, then
continue in the next phase of your research.


















Money. Yup, you
need money here too. You need to invest in tools, seed, soil testing
and correction. You can get away with starting small or with used
equipment, but my advise is to limit your garden to the tools you
have available.


















Example: We
started out with nothing but our hands and a garden hoe. We borrowed
my father-in-law's tiller to put the garden in. We only had the
tiller out once in the spring, as it wasn't easy to just bring it
over. Our garden was small, but we grew something. We had no weeding
tools, no planting tools, and no money to buy any at that time.


















You need to sit
down with your spouse and decide how much you are able to invest in
your gardening. Lets make a quick list of items you will need for
successful gardening in a larger garden. Lets start with the bare
necessity to get seeds in the ground.


















Quick
note:
I am discussing "conventional” gardening
practices, and assuming you are breaking up virgin soil and are not
retired and/or want to spend every spare moment of an entire summer
doing things by hand. There are other ways, such as double digging,
hand weeding, etc., but if you are talking over a couple hundred
square feet of garden bed, those hand methods become a daunting
(however possible) task. Don't be afraid to pick up tools used,
especially hand tools. They tend to sell for a buck or two at yard
sales compared to $10 to $30 new. Keep an eye out for used tillers in
the fall/winter.

















Items of necessity:






Rotary tiller.












  • This is the
    biggest investment you will need to make. You can use a hand model
    or a larger unit you pull behind your lawn tractor. I recommend a
    reverse tine rotation model as the forward models tend to run up
    above the soil and compact the soil instead of dig down in it.









  • If you can, I
    would actually skip the tiller and go with a ground engaging garden
    tractor and proper attachments for your soil. Rotary tilling is hard
    on the soil, and gives you problems down the road, such as creating
    even harder soil from pulverization. We are currently using a John
    Deere 316 with 3 point and Ag Bar tires, pulling mostly home build
    implements. Be ready to spend thousands on setting up with the
    garden tractor, though.









Long handled
garden hoe.






Long handled
weeding tool.






Wheel barrow or
some sort of garden cart.







Enough hose to
reach every corner of your garden.






Hand watering wand
(the low pressure high volume variety that simulates rain).






Sighting string






Hand weeding tool.






Hand shovel.






Large straw hat.






Work gloves.






Multiply hand
tools by the number of workers for the garden.

















Items that will make gardening much
more productive and less time consuming:







Single or double
wheel hoe and appropriate weeding attachments.






Seeder or seeding
attachment for wheel hoe.






Automated
irrigation (grass sprinklers will do, but I like drip irrigation or
soaker hoses as appripriate).






More hose and Y
valves for them. On this note, bigger diameter hose.






Trellis materials.
Cattle panels are a bit expensive, but will last decades.






Garden tractor
(ground engaging grade) and appropriate attachments. If you have
this, skip the tiller. Rotary tilling is hard on the soil.






Kids that are
excited to help Mommy and Daddy!

















There are perhaps
other items or systems that you may need to consider that are
specific to your area. Talk to other gardeners, particularly try to
find people that have a large garden for private use. If you have
certain pest problems, there may be locally adapted procedures in
place for dealing with them, or certain seed varieties to avoid or
seek out. Hit up the local gardening online chat rooms and see what
others are having issues with. There is no one-size-fits-all approach
to a garden.


















I am not going to
name prices on any of those items here. Prices fluctuate from year to
year, region to region, and what time of year you buy. You can buy
clearance gardening stuff in late summer and fall and yard sales are
good source as well. You can find a tiller used. You can choose to
buy it all new. This is something to talk with your spouse about and
decide if you have more time to hunt it down or money to invest.

















Which garden
method are you going to use? Yup, you need to research this too. What
are your priorities with gardening? Are you striving for a 100%
organic approach? Are you planning on using hybrid seeds and weed
killer like industrial farms? For us, one of the reasons we wanted a
large garden was to provide high quality organic produce for our
family. Are you going to save seeds? Are you going to use hybrid
seeds for maximum yield and pest/disease resistance (but you are
dependent on buying seeds every year). Again, lots of decisions that
are up to you.


















I suggest you at
start out with a large variety of heirloom variety seeds. See what
you like, what works, what didn't. It can take gardeners decades to
pick out the perfect varieties. Move ½ mile and the soil changes and
what worked before doesn't work well now. Just remember that if you
can create your own hybrids un-intentionally by having many varieties
of compatible plants. Seed saving is not something I have yet
reliably perfected for all varieties (such as carrots, cabbage,
broccoli, onions), so I suggest you seek other literature on the
subject. One thing I will advise is that during your beginning years
when you plant multiple varieties of the same veggie, if you save
seeds you will have hybrids. Don't bother saving seeds until you are
settled on the varieties you want to grow long term.

















I also suggest the
false bed technique. This is a weed prevention technique that
dramatically reduces the amount of work you put into keeping the
weeds down. Most people till the garden, and plant in one weekend.
This is a mistake for the organic gardener. If you want to raise a
small garden as a hobby, sure it works. If you are wanting to spend
as little time as possible on a large sustenance garden, I would
advise the false bed technique. More information can be had online,
but I will outline how the system works.

















You till/plow
(From here on it, I will likely use tilling/plowing interchangeably.
Use whatever means of soil prep you have available) the soil in the
spring, as soon as it can be worked. You are mixing in all the
leaves, mulch, fertilizer, etc that was added during winter plus
whatever supplements your soil needed nutrient wise. Once you till in
your garden, put away your tiller until fall, as you won't use it
again. The strategy here is no not turn your soil again until fall
(unless you decide to use a no till method, but I am no expert in
that as I have not used it. Our ground gets too hard here to work it
by hand.) Every time you till the soil, you bring seeds to the
surface that have been dormant for possibly decades. Those seeds have
been waiting for just the right conditions to sprout. Now is when we
WANT your weeds to grow, not later in the year. At this point, you
are literally going to grow weeds. After you till your garden for the
spring, go and find something else to do for a week or so.

















The waiting is
hard. You watch all the neighbors putting in seeds with nicely marked
rows and you look at a patch of  nothing. A beautiful spring week
passes by. Nice warm long sunny days. Within a week, you should see
weeds popping up. The first "leaves” you see of a plant are
called cotyledon.
There are generally two types of weeds and garden plants: Plants with
1 cotyledon leaf (called monocotyledons, or monocots) and plants with
2 cotyledon "leaves” (called dicotyledons or dicots). These are
not the true plant leaves. Anyway, once these first embronic leaves
appear, the plant is at its most vulnerable stage. The seed has spent
all its reserve energy to reach the sun to start photosynthesis, and
its reserves are empty. It is not able to regrow roots, a stem or a
cotyledon leaf. Now it the time to act!





















STOP!!! Do
NOT till your garden again!!!!!! You have two options here. First
option is to work the soil with a stirrup hoe or weeding sweeps to
cut the small plants off from the roots. A stirrip hoe is basically
just a blade that is run just within the first 1/2 inch of soil, and
not disturb any deeper. It kills the young weeds by cutting the roots
off the stems without working up dormant seeds. This works great if
the soil is dry enough to work. If it is not dry enough to work, a
propane torch is the best bet. You should not wait any longer than
now, so use the propane if you must. If you wait longer, you risk the
plant building its energy reserves back up in its root system since
it now has access to the sun's energy. If that happens, you will be
battling that plant until it is pulled out by hand. Right now either
weed sweep the entire garden or use a propane torch to singe the
plants. It is not neccesary to torch them into oblivion, just hitting
them with the torch quickly will kill them.




















After you
have killed all the weeks, put away your weeding tool and (you
guessed it) wait some more. Wait another week for the next crop of
weeds. Agonizing, isn't it? Don't worry. It is worth it in the end.




















After your
second week of weed crops, you once again kill the weeds either by
cutting them with a stirrip hoe or porpane torch depending on how wet
the soil is. Now is when you have a choice. Ideally, you would wait
another week and raise the last bit of weeds that took a while to
germinate. However, if you got a late start this could put you
behind. If you had a nice early spring, I would wait the third week.
If it is getting too far into late spring and you had significantly
less weeds in your second weed crop, I would consider planting your
crops now. Either way, once you kill your last crop of weeds,
IMMEDIATELY plant your food crops. They should be about the only
plants germinating when they are coming up, and you should have a
nice garden with few weeds. You now start weeding as normal, but
NEVER till your garden mid-season. Instead, use your stirrup hoe or
weed sweeps. More on those devices later.




















Here is a
quick time table for the false bed technique, assuming 3 weeks for
weed germination:








<colgroup>
<col width="51*"></col>

<col width="54*"></col>

<col width="46*"></col>

<col width="105*"></col>
</colgroup>































































Week 1







Week 2







Week 3







Rest of the growing season







Till your garden.






DO NOT till the soil again until fall.







Kill weeds with either propane torch or stirrup hoe.







Kill weeds with either propane or stirrup hoe.







Continue weeding as normal. Do not EVER till your garden mid
season, or you will bring new weed seeds close enough to the sun
to germinate.







DO NOT PLANT






Put your tiller away until fall.







Wait for another week of weeds to grow.







Plant your crops.







Till garden in fall if you choose. Some people do, some people
don't.



















Fall tilling: Some
do, some don't. There are arguments for both. I like to turn in the
garden after adding compost or chicken bedding. I also find the
garden dries faster in the spring if it is tilled. There again, a lot
depends on your climate and soil conditions. Experiment! Perhaps you
find that you are better off NOT tilling in the fall.







































One of the very
first things we did when we got our farm was to start a relatively
small garden. Our first patch was about 10 feet wide by 25 feet long.
Small, but we hadn't equipment for larger and we decided to start
small and expand.


















One of the first
problems we ran into was the same problem everyone who breaks virgin
ground runs into: bugs and weeds. We experienced significant losses
in any freshly tilled ground from June bug grubs. They wreak havoc on
our potatoes. Just this last year, when we planted our potatoes in a
second year garden, we experienced a 50% loss due to June bug grubs.
There are some traps you can make (and we tried some with limited
success), but the best solution is to keep your garden weed free for
about 3 years. After 3 years, that part of the June bug life cycle is
over and June bugs don't like to lay eggs in open dirt (they prefer
lawn/pasture environments for their eggs). After a few years, that
particular problem will subside.


















Second problem was
weeds. Oh the weeds! Imagine a lawn of weeds coming up in your veggie
garden. It was that bad. I must admit, it is a battle we lost a
couple times. I wasn't using the false bed technique in the
beginning, as I had never heard of it. I have since learned that you
should take a year and till the garden, kill weeds, kill weeds, kill
weeds, etc., for the entire year. I like to plow a few times during
the year to keep bringing up those seeds and get them to germinate.
Kill as many weeds as you can that first year. Even if you kill what
was there, obviously there will always be weed seeds coming in fresh
from the breeze, but you want to kill the weed seed stockpile in the
soil. Another option is a large tarp (preferably the silver/black,
not blue or white) or black plastic sheeting. Let the weeds come up
and smother them with the cover for a couple weeks. Then allow the
ground to re-grow its weeds (possibly turning the earth to encourage
this), and then smother again. You can let the weeds get a bit bigger
than the initial leaves, as you will cut off all light. Don't let
them get too big though, as the roots will store enough energy to
come back.


















We quickly found
out that weeding by hand is darn near impossible for anything other
than a small urban sized garden, unless you literally have nothing
better to do. You need mechanization to handle a garden of size. I
tried to avoid this, but we had the decision either downsize the
garden or gain a mechanical advantage over the weeds. Since
downsizing the garden simply isn't an option, I started researching
(see, there that word is again!) what is the best way to gain that
mechanical advantage. I found it in a 2 wheel hoe, as they would have
used late 19th and early 20th century. I
purchased a complete 2 wheel hoe, accessories and even a seeding
attachment for our garden. I purchased it new, and I will admit I
spent about $500 on everything, including the seeder. Seems like a
lot for a simple machine, but it is built with a quality that is
reminiscent of the time period when the device thrived across
America. The unit was purchased from  http://www.easydigging.com/
and delivered promptly. Excitedly, I assembled the unit and took it
to the garden. Safe to say, I was happy with my purchase. The wheel
hoe has accessories available, including different sized stirrup
hoes, weed sweeps, cultivator teeth, miniature disc (how neat is
that!) and a seeder attachment. I advise you go to their website and
check it out. As a note, I have no affiliation, nor do I receive any
type of incentive for any review. I purchased my wheel hoe and
accessories as a private person at the normal retail price of the
time.

















The seeder
attachment was purchased separately, as I wanted to wait to see the
quality and durability of the base unit first. The seeder is also a
quality built item. There are a few plastic pieces, but they are low
stress parts and I feel they should withstand the test of time. Best
thing for me is that the seeder will plant carrot seeds, which I
absolutely loathe planting by hand. Last year, I gave up dropping
those tiny seeds with my huge fingers and decided to try solid
seeding carrots in small beds akin to spreading grass seed. That was
a dismal failure. Not only does it waste a lot of seed because of
thinning, but weeding and harvesting is extremely difficult to do,
and impossible to do with any type of tool. Don't solid seed carrots!

















The two wheel hoe is the type of tool
(depending on the attachment that is on) where its primary job is to
cut the weeds off just below surface. This is the type of tool that
is needed for the false bed technique, and also for weeding mid
season without turning the soil or pulling weeds by hand. The unit
pushes easy though even our heavy soil, and does its job well. It
does NOT, however, work very well when the soil is wet. If the soil
is wet enough to leave your boots with mud on them, it is too wet to
use a wheel hoe. The stirrup hoe and weed sweeps depend on the soil
being able to "flow” over the blade. If it clumps rather than
flows, it tends to bunch up on the blade. If things were that wet, I
would either use a propane torch or wait for dryer weather.

















Starting Seeds:

















Note: You will notice that when
starting seedlings early indoors, you cannot get by without
artificial lights, the power grid, and a relatively expensive setup.
After all, shelving and a multitude of shop lights aren't cheap. This
is a choice. Even up here in Minnesota, we CAN grow a lot of veggies
without starting seeds. Tomatoes CAN be directly sown in the garden.
We can plant a large enough variety of vegetables to sustain us.
HOWEVER, we enjoy some things that must be started early,
particularly onions. Things like pumpkins, squash, melons can be
started in a cold frame that is solar powered, but onions take MONTHS
from seeds before you can put them in the ground this far north. As
an example, I just planted 220 onion seeds in January for this
summer. As long as we have the ability, I would rather grow my own
vegetables. I know what is in them, how they were grown, how they
were handled, and I am not subject to the half rotten onions at the
grocery store. This is a decision YOU will have to make if you want
to grow vegetables that require starting seedlings early.

















Typically, (depending on where you
live) you need to start some seeds indoors before the actual growing
season. Things like celery, onions (from seeds, not sets), possibly
tomatoes in the far north, etc., need more growing time from seed
than the season allows. Or perhaps you want to get a jump start for
better production on things like pumpkin/squash and melons. In any
case, you are starting seeds early indoors.

















The commercial way to start seeds is to
buy trays that contain individual plastic cells (usually in a 6 pack)
for each plant. You fill each cell with starting mix, plant seed, and
add water to the bottom of the tray. The bottom of the individual
cells have slits to allow water to soak up the soil, and a clear
plastic dome to simulate a miniature green house.

















The problem I have with these units is
2 fold. First, you must constantly buy these plastic sets. I have
tried re-using them, but haven't had luck with reusing them more than
once or so. They are also surprisingly expensive for some cheap, thin
and brittle blown plastic that costs about 5 cents to produce. Second
is the plants don't like them either. When you pull a plant out of a
plastic pot for transplant, you will see exposed, bare roots. When
you put that plant into your garden, the plant experiences transplant
shock, which is a sudden change in soil characteristics that the
roots are exposed to. Some of the plants may even die, and all will
be stunted for a couple weeks while they attempt to adapt to the
sudden change in environment. Either case, this is not ideal.

















I have started using the soil blocking
technique. Basically, instead of plastic cells, you make formed
compacted soil cubes using a molding tool. You plant your seeds in
these cubes of compressed dirt. The roots tend not to explore past
the edge of the soil block because they will naturally go away from
air and sunlight. If they grow too close to the outside edge of the
soil block, they will generally turn and go another direction. Soil
block molds come in different sizes. From 3/4” square to 4x4”.
There are block spacers in the larger molds that are the size of the
smaller blocks, so when you seedling is getting too big for its
little bit of dirt, you place the entire block and seedling into the
next size up soil block, never having to un-earth or disturb the root
system. Simply search for "soil blocking kit” on your favorite
web search engine, and you should be provided with many purchasing
options. Once you buy the molds, you should never have to buy them
again, and you can re-use the flat bottom containment trays for many
years. You are going green, reducing your dependency on the system,
have better plants, AND have a quality tool that will make you as
many blocks as you can squeeze. I paid $60 for a kit of 2 molds and
appropriate accessories. In my opinion, they are worth the
investment.

















Next order of business is lighting.
Your plants will need light, and depending on your latitude, a lot
more than the sun will give you this time of year. If you have a sun
room with nice big south facing windows that are NOT Low-E glass, you
are a big step ahead here. If not, you need to produce light
artificially.

















Your lighting system should be built
when you pick out your shelving options to maximize both. Generally
speaking, you use long tube fluorescent shop lights for your light
source. They are held by small chains that allow you to adjust the
height from the plants (you should keep them about 2 inches from the
plants). I have been using "daylight” bulbs in the fixtures, and
I have been happy with them. Some people use just the "cool blue”
bulbs, others a combination of the blue and red (soft) light bulbs.
Feel free to experiment. Just know that the blue spectrum promotes
plant growth, and the red spectrum promotes flowering.

















You need to match the length and depth
of your lights to how long your shelving will be. If you have 4 foot
shelving, you need 4 foot shop lights. Ideally, you would have longer
lights than your plants take up on your shelving, so the plants grow
straight. If you lights are too short, your plants will grow toward
the light. Unless you frequently rotate them, you won't have very
strong plants. Just keep this in mind when you are setting up your
seeding area.

















While still experimental as I write
this, I have forgone the traditional shop lights in favor of
individual CFL or LED daylight bulbs and matching bases mounted
individually on the bottom of the shelves for my latest version of
seed starting system. The reason I am trying this is pure cost. I
figured that the cost of putting 2 shop lights per shelf, and 3
shelves of lights would run approximately $140. Insane. The shop
lights do NOT come with bulbs (and if they do, they are the wrong
ones), so they are a separate expense and add up quickly. Instead, by
using CFL Daylight bulbs, we can save considerable money. A CFL
Daylight can be had in various power outputs. For now, I am using 60
watt equivalent. The bulbs are approximately $1.50 each, and the base
is approximately $1.25 each. I figured on 4 bulbs per shelf, so that
works out to about $11 per shelf, or $33 for 3 shelves. Upgrading to
6 bulbs per shelf only adds an additional $16 to the project. Or one
could simply use higher wattage CFL bulbs and 4 sockets. Higher watt
CFL bulbs are only 50 cents to a dollar more for 100 or 125 watt
equivalent. Be careful for too hot of bulbs, though. You don't want
to burn your plants from the heat.

















My shelves are only 2.5 feet wide of
useable space, so while 4 bulbs per shelf may work fine for me, if
you have wider you would need to use 6 or 8 per shelf. For the bases,
you can use traditional bases that are hard wired in and secured to
the shelf, but the shelf system I got on sale was plastic and not
wood. I had no way to secure the bases to the plastic perforated
shelf. My solution was to use "temporary light sockets”. These
have piercing contacts and a twist lock. You strip back the
outer-most insulation of the standard building wire, exposing the 3
wires inside. You then simply set the exposed (but still insulated)
hot and common wires on the piercing contacts and twist the lock. The
contacts are pushed into the wire, making contact with the copper
inside, thus providing power. They were quick and easy to put up, and
I simply used zip ties to secure the unit to the perforated plastic
shelf. A few didn't make great contact at first, but a little twist
and wiggle and they are lighting properly. Since there are exposed
contacts (although you would have to attempt to deliberately touch
one), make sure you completely un-plug the lights from the power
outlet before working with the plants. Keep kids away as well.

















Oh, one last note about lighting: they
need to be on a timer. I just use a cheap mechanical timer to give
the plants approximately 10 hours of light a day.






















 
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