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Posted: 1/31/2016 8:00:37 PM EDT
First off I do not mean to offend anyone calling homesteading a hobby but a hobby is a precursor before it becomes a lifestyle.
This is the boat I am in. Getting started. Here is where I am as of right now I live in a suburb inside city limits on a rental property. So based on these little parameters shows there's not a ton I can do but if I can start somewhere the better. Within at most (I hope 2 years) my family and I will be living outside of city limits and just live for ourselves. My question is where should I start in the lines of learning skills. What things should I focus now so it will be easier down the road. Here's what I have done thus far: Collecting firewood: While to most this is a very mundane task but for me it was a wake up call on the tools I already had were inadequate for this task Growing plants from seed: Another mundane task to many But if I can grow a plant from a seed there is almost no point of homesteading later on. basic car repair: perhaps not a true homesteader skill but I look at it in the self reliance category that homesteading is all about Cooking more meals at home: which is probably the most difficult of them all due to the fact of my wife and I work every day (when she is off I'm working) This is my start by no means what I only want to do. What other things should I try? Any questions about what I can or cannot do on the property by all means ask |
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I think you could start canning in season fruits/veggies. That's a critical skill.
Sounds like you are just getting into it so I would try to get the best tools/equipment possible the first time. Do your research and hit garage sales, you'll be amazed what's out there once you know what to look for. What are your goals for homesteading? Just an easier going life? Self sufficiency? Adventure? I'd reall recommend a book called "modern homesteading" by a YouTuber named Wranglerstar, it puts forward these questions and ideas much more eloquently than I could. His channel is also great. Disclaimer, I'm not a "homesteader" either right now but am trying myself to build the skills and equipment I'll need. I'm about 8.5 years out from it |
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I think you could start canning in season fruits/veggies. That's a critical skill. Sounds like you are just getting into it so I would try to get the best tools/equipment possible the first time. Do your research and hit garage sales, you'll be amazed what's out there once you know what to look for. What are your goals for homesteading? Just an easier going life? Self sufficiency? Adventure? I'd reall recommend a book called "modern homesteading" by a YouTuber named Wranglerstar, it puts forward these questions and ideas much more eloquently than I could. His channel is also great. Disclaimer, I'm not a "homesteader" either right now but am trying myself to build the skills and equipment I'll need. I'm about 8.5 years out from it View Quote Ive been always trying to can but then something comes up lol I need to buy jars and can some regular stuff at the grocery store just to get the skill down thanks on that For myself I would say more self sufficiency if anything. And thanks for the book recommendation Tool wise in the lines of basic wrenches socket etc I did my share of spending HD during black Friday. But there is always something else |
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On the topic of cooking, you need a chest freezer. Cook meals 3/4 the way done and freeze them. Look at the frozen meals from the store and try to freeze them similar to those meals.
We make 14 servings of chili at a time. 12 go into freezer bags and get frozen flat for east storage. |
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Quoted:
On the topic of cooking, you need a chest freezer. Cook meals 3/4 the way done and freeze them. Look at the frozen meals from the store and try to freeze them similar to those meals. We make 14 servings of chili at a time. 12 go into freezer bags and get frozen flat for east storage. View Quote Interesting way to store chili....I may have to try that. I always can mine extra Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Buy the book Encyclopedia of Country Living by Carla Emery.
A big part of homesteading and being self sufficient is producing your own food. A lot of cities will allow you to have chickens, but no roosters. Getting some chickens is a great way to learn about feeding, housing and generally caring for animals. Another important thing to know is general home repair. Repair people, professionals, will sometimes charge extra to drive out into the country. You'll end up building your own animal pens, so a knowledge of construction helps. Another thing you'll need to know how to build is fencing. What material you fence with and how you build it are determined by what you're keeping in or out. Take a look at the forums at www.tractorbynet.com Probably the best tractor/homesteading forum out there. |
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How big is your rental?
How on board is the wife/family? Right now I'm writing a book of sorts, meant for future generations about starting into mini homesteading, sort of a memoirs, tips and tricks we have learned the hard way. I'll look for some useful exerpts for you when I am on my laptop tomorrow. |
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I'd suggest paying attention to gardening. It's hard work, and discouraging sometimes, but it will help keep you focused on the big picture. But if you scale up, you can raise other critters from your feed, and supplement that with some lettuce, tomatoes, peppers... You're probably handy with a rifle, but buy or get real good with a little 22. Think about a dog for protection, but it's another big cog in your machine that can wait if needed.
Keep checking landwatch.com or landsof (whatever state you wanna live in).com. Those place will help keep you focused on your big prize. Consider your relationship to a church. Most rural folks are believers, and the church is still a huge safety net and social rallying point. |
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Cooking more meals at home: which is probably the most difficult of them all due to the fact of my wife and I work every day (when she is off I'm working) View Quote Try a "no processed foods" diet for a few weeks. (You can define the parameters to your comfort level.) Jettisoning the convenience of pre-prepared foodstuffs can be an eye-opening experience for folks who have never done it. Good luck! |
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If you were snowed in on the East Coast, I'd suggest reading some books. You might be able to do stuff at this time of the year.
"Five Acres and Independence" by M. G. Kains was a good read and I think it's public domain now. Like other said, food preservation such as canning or dehydrating and gardening would be great starts. I can't imagine a rental agreement that wouldn't allow a small garden. |
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Gardening...you're in a rental so, pots, learn to grow..maintain viable crops, tomatoes, peppers, onions, a few corn, micro fruit and or nut trees that can be rolled indoors during inclement weather, mushrooms in closet, learn what different crop issues look like..HERBS,,,what they for both culinary and medical purpose..
get books..REAL BOOKS on survival issues, gardening, animal husbandry, learn carpentry, furniture building, cabinet making, brick/stone masonry. learn to maintain and repair your car, quad, cycle etc As you're a suburbanite. Exercise, walk, run, jog, climb, jump rope, ride a bike,, lots of work in a subsistence/self reliant lifestyle and optimum health and prime physicality is a huge headstart and knowing you can jump on a 10 speed and go 20 mi with out thinking about it can be a lifesaver and lastly find a partner who'll roll in the mud, break a nail and can struggle with getting the paint and cow shit out of her hair or you're in a losing relationship from the start.. I restarted homesteading as an old man with ill health and wish I had continued what I started 40 years ago on the physical stuff...but work, kids, wives got in the way.. |
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Wow I didn't expect these many replies. I will read and reply accordingly
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On the topic of cooking, you need a chest freezer. Cook meals 3/4 the way done and freeze them. Look at the frozen meals from the store and try to freeze them similar to those meals. We make 14 servings of chili at a time. 12 go into freezer bags and get frozen flat for east storage. View Quote Chest freezer is on the plans, it a matter of setting up the space (need to work on my addition truck before that I have to clean the randomness of inside the garage but besides having a chest freezer we have an addition fridge in the garage. Fridge portion primarily additional drinks freezer section typically long term freezing. Typically I usually only freeze soups (I'm the soup guy) that in turn that goes for lunches. there is limited space in the freezer now. Thank you for the suggestions |
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Buy the book Encyclopedia of Country Living by Carla Emery. A big part of homesteading and being self sufficient is producing your own food. A lot of cities will allow you to have chickens, but no roosters. Getting some chickens is a great way to learn about feeding, housing and generally caring for animals. Another important thing to know is general home repair. Repair people, professionals, will sometimes charge extra to drive out into the country. You'll end up building your own animal pens, so a knowledge of construction helps. Another thing you'll need to know how to build is fencing. What material you fence with and how you build it are determined by what you're keeping in or out. Take a look at the forums at www.tractorbynet.com Probably the best tractor/homesteading forum out there. View Quote Thanks for the book suggestion The only thing I will have to look up is the "livestock" for my particular city. Last I heard that chickens were considered livestock. But I don't believe rabbits where. In the lines of house repair, I could learn more. On a side note Ive had to repair my "fair share" on this property because the owner doesn't do anything Fencing for sure is something I have to learn. Ive had to build a barricade (wont deem a fence) for my dogs. Even though I absolutely hate when they get out It teaches me what I have to different. (Friendly tip, if your dog(s) can get through anything can get through) And great another forum lol Thanks |
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Thanks for the book suggestion The only thing I will have to look up is the "livestock" for my particular city. Last I heard that chickens were considered livestock. But I don't believe rabbits where. In the lines of house repair, I could learn more. On a side note Ive had to repair my "fair share" on this property because the owner doesn't do anything Fencing for sure is something I have to learn. Ive had to build a barricade (wont deem a fence) for my dogs. Even though I absolutely hate when they get out It teaches me what I have to different. (Friendly tip, if your dog(s) can get through anything can get through) And great another forum lol Thanks View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Buy the book Encyclopedia of Country Living by Carla Emery. A big part of homesteading and being self sufficient is producing your own food. A lot of cities will allow you to have chickens, but no roosters. Getting some chickens is a great way to learn about feeding, housing and generally caring for animals. Another important thing to know is general home repair. Repair people, professionals, will sometimes charge extra to drive out into the country. You'll end up building your own animal pens, so a knowledge of construction helps. Another thing you'll need to know how to build is fencing. What material you fence with and how you build it are determined by what you're keeping in or out. Take a look at the forums at www.tractorbynet.com Probably the best tractor/homesteading forum out there. Thanks for the book suggestion The only thing I will have to look up is the "livestock" for my particular city. Last I heard that chickens were considered livestock. But I don't believe rabbits where. In the lines of house repair, I could learn more. On a side note Ive had to repair my "fair share" on this property because the owner doesn't do anything Fencing for sure is something I have to learn. Ive had to build a barricade (wont deem a fence) for my dogs. Even though I absolutely hate when they get out It teaches me what I have to different. (Friendly tip, if your dog(s) can get through anything can get through) And great another forum lol Thanks Many cities have special rules for chickens outside of livestock. Worth checking out if your landlord is okay with it. Two or three hens and a rooster can provide a lot of education. |
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How big is your rental? How on board is the wife/family? Right now I'm writing a book of sorts, meant for future generations about starting into mini homesteading, sort of a memoirs, tips and tricks we have learned the hard way. I'll look for some useful exerpts for you when I am on my laptop tomorrow. View Quote The whole property itself, not that big (by my standard but I use to live on 30 arces of land in WI) If you need exact measurements I can get them for you but its you typical single floor house with a front and back yard. Doing anything happens in the front yard because my dogs own the back and rather not destroyed. My wife is fairly onboard. Ironically the 1st season of Doomsday preppers when it was new (yeah I know the show is a bit out there) she finally got out of the "city" living kind of deal (we use to eat out a lot and live in a much bigger city) But she understood why to keep something on hand. Now she is much more on board but her main concerns is the family income. She brings the bacon while I have "the fun". My two kids to be honest I'm unsure where they stand. Oldest is 8 youngest is 5. The oldest does like trying new things like paperbrick making (which I will have a review on this in the next few weeks on everything from materials process and temps) The 5 year old is who I'm most concerned about coming on board but hopefully the trip to WI and going in the woods and camping and letting him do stuff will get him on board. All in all my family isn't against but do not have there heart in it but that could be based on me. I think I'm in the mentality if I wont teach it who will? So yes you can blame me for my family lack of progression at this moment in time |
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I'd suggest paying attention to gardening. It's hard work, and discouraging sometimes, but it will help keep you focused on the big picture. But if you scale up, you can raise other critters from your feed, and supplement that with some lettuce, tomatoes, peppers... You're probably handy with a rifle, but buy or get real good with a little 22. Think about a dog for protection, but it's another big cog in your machine that can wait if needed. Keep checking landwatch.com or landsof (whatever state you wanna live in).com. Those place will help keep you focused on your big prize. Consider your relationship to a church. Most rural folks are believers, and the church is still a huge safety net and social rallying point. View Quote Started seeding my peppers (indoor jiffy green house) and will transplant (when ready) to my Xmas tree totes I will convert into my beds (a heck of a lot cheaper than going with a wood option. I have debated on the .22 Rimfire. I'm considerable against still because I cant get ammo for it. Ive been looking for a small lightweight firearm. Been debating maybe on something like a .22 Hornet. Even though its not a high abundant round I am set up for reloding. I have 4 dogs (which having 1 at all is un heard of on a rental property) they bark and go after just about anything. Thanks for your suggestions |
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Try a "no processed foods" diet for a few weeks. (You can define the parameters to your comfort level.) Jettisoning the convenience of pre-prepared foodstuffs can be an eye-opening experience for folks who have never done it. Good luck! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Cooking more meals at home: which is probably the most difficult of them all due to the fact of my wife and I work every day (when she is off I'm working) Try a "no processed foods" diet for a few weeks. (You can define the parameters to your comfort level.) Jettisoning the convenience of pre-prepared foodstuffs can be an eye-opening experience for folks who have never done it. Good luck! For sure it is very difficult. but since when my wife and I were married to now we started maybe 90% of eating out to about 45-50% eating out so we are getting there. |
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If you were snowed in on the East Coast, I'd suggest reading some books. You might be able to do stuff at this time of the year. "Five Acres and Independence" by M. G. Kains was a good read and I think it's public domain now. Like other said, food preservation such as canning or dehydrating and gardening would be great starts. I can't imagine a rental agreement that wouldn't allow a small garden. View Quote Being from the Midwest I will never be snowed in lol We have dehydrated some random meat just unsure of extending the shelf life past a couple of weeks (found mold on my jerky) but ive played around with dehydrating not full into it yet (need a better dehydrator) |
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Gardening...you're in a rental so, pots, learn to grow..maintain viable crops, tomatoes, peppers, onions, a few corn, micro fruit and or nut trees that can be rolled indoors during inclement weather, mushrooms in closet, learn what different crop issues look like..HERBS,,,what they for both culinary and medical purpose.. get books..REAL BOOKS on survival issues, gardening, animal husbandry, learn carpentry, furniture building, cabinet making, brick/stone masonry. learn to maintain and repair your car, quad, cycle etc As you're a suburbanite. Exercise, walk, run, jog, climb, jump rope, ride a bike,, lots of work in a subsistence/self reliant lifestyle and optimum health and prime physicality is a huge headstart and knowing you can jump on a 10 speed and go 20 mi with out thinking about it can be a lifesaver and lastly find a partner who'll roll in the mud, break a nail and can struggle with getting the paint and cow shit out of her hair or you're in a losing relationship from the start.. I restarted homesteading as an old man with ill health and wish I had continued what I started 40 years ago on the physical stuff...but work, kids, wives got in the way.. View Quote I mentioned in a few other posts but will reply in yours. I bought a couple of Xmas Tree totes. Fairly long and deep. My dad gave me the idea on this. about $25 a tote which is not bad consider the cost of some of the potted plants I think the biggest suggestion I'm taking from you is exercise. I'm out of shape and it wont help not loosing weight now when I get my property (Ironically the property I'm looking at the gentleman just called to wonder if we were still interested in it) |
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View Quote I've been looking at this for some great detail hopefully it's not against my rental agreement. |
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You phrased it a good way using the word hobby. It is dang hard to really hop right into homesteading and have your land make your living.
You are basically going to pick and choose what is worth the effort and time to do, vs. what is worth paying for at the store or on the magical net that lets the pretty brown truck deliver your goods right to your door. I would read on the net or buy some used books anytime you are looking at doing something. There are some easy plans out there for making some shelves using 2x4s and plywood but some of the basic cabinetry books have stuff that might make you happier with the outcome. I like to surf the net for ideas, lots of ease hopping around and searching ideas and what not. But once I settle onto something I prefer an actual book in front of me, or at least a print out. There are a lot of free kindle books on stuff like gardening and herbs and what not, but you have to catch em when they are free. Lots of sites track the books, you just need to find a site or three you check in on and get em while they are free. And as with most stuff, there is an alternative if you don't own a kindle and don't want to own a kindle. You can put the program on your computer and still read em. And if you have pdf's that you want on the kindle, there are programs for that. The reading section of this site has a nice big list of stuff. I also recomend watching mother earth news, they will have a half price sale on their dvd/thumbdrive of all the old magazines and articles and I consider it well worth the cost. Backwoods home magazine is another one to look at. |
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I kind of browsed through the thread and saw rabbits and chickens mentioned, but what I don't see mentioned is butchering. Butchering your own meat is an art, one that's not possessed by many people. More for the future when you're rural living, but its a needed skill for homesteading IMO. Glad I learned from my grandfather, and I'll pass it on to the next generation.
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Quoted: I kind of browsed through the thread and saw rabbits and chickens mentioned, but what I don't see mentioned is butchering. Butchering your own meat is an art, one that's not possessed by many people. More for the future when you're rural living, but its a needed skill for homesteading IMO. Glad I learned from my grandfather, and I'll pass it on to the next generation. View Quote But yes, you should connect with your food. |
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So OP, what are your goals with this exactly?
Are you looking to live off the land? Make your living off the land? If so, what are your income expectations? You still need income, and more than you think even with this lifestyle. It rarely pays for itself and usually requires either cash crops/services or outside income. Are you willing/ready to ditch electronics? You won't have time for video games or TV. Are you and your family prepared to invest the TIME it takes to maintain everything, produce and preserve? How much will your wife take part, since she is the one that currently brings in the household income? As far as working on your car not a true homesteader thing, you are waaay off on that one. Repairing your own equipment is absolutely vital. You cannot afford to bring everything in every time anything breaks. If you cannot rebuild a Briggs 5hp, you need more practice. You will come to depend on a lot of equipment which will always need maintenance, repair, modification. On that note, learn metalworking. Minimum tools are a BFH, large slip joint pliers, torch (did you know you can use propane instead of acetylene?), welder (and associated supplies). You also need a drill, drill doctor (to sharpen drill bits), 4" angle grinder, saws-all just off the top of my head as to what you need to start. A good book might be: Mini-Farming Because we currently have about 5 acres, and we live on a hill so flat-ish garden space is limited, we have adopted SOME of these methods. I (and probably most others that do this sort of thing) grew up on a farm. This is all second nature to me. I applaud you for giving it a try with no background. I will tell you that odds are against you. The vast majority cannot handle the work and dedication that this life brings. That said, I wouldn't have it any other way. If it were feasible, I would gladly give up my business and go full time farming if I could. The sad truth is it just isn't that simple anymore. |
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So OP, what are your goals with this exactly? Are you looking to live off the land? Make your living off the land? If so, what are your income expectations? You still need income, and more than you think even with this lifestyle. It rarely pays for itself and usually requires either cash crops/services or outside income. Are you willing/ready to ditch electronics? You won't have time for video games or TV. Are you and your family prepared to invest the TIME it takes to maintain everything, produce and preserve? How much will your wife take part, since she is the one that currently brings in the household income? View Quote My goal is to be more self reliant. yes I know it is a very general term but will explain. I don't like the fact in essence todays society that everything can be bought as convenience but doing yourself is almost discourage (getting political but mainly by the left nowadays). I want to be able to still live without depending fully on 3rd party entities (not referring to government but from the simplest form Walmart etc) Do I want to live off the land? I think I do, but what I do know (reference to first question) is to be more self reliant. Lets say 10% of my family comes from homesteading (food, income, crafting) I already know that I'm doing better than a majority of the population. Where as if something bad happens ie wife getting fired to the extreme SHTF we will be better off still. As it comes for income from straight homesteading, I haven't thought of it to be truly honest. Would I want us to live on it sure but to be honest at this moment in time unrealistic. I know my wife likes to bake and do crafts and always wanted to try to make her goods for profit. As for electronics I'm already good without them. Heck the biggest change that my family did (which my inlaws cannot believe we did this) was rid cable and only have hulu amazon and Netflix. We have saved a decent sum by doing this. I'm not sure how much my wife will partake in this but I will put it this way, she is not against it at all. Mind you currently we will still do quite well if I'm not working (was a stay at home dad for awhile) If I stop working it will not hurt us at all. I'm only workings just to help pay off more bills off faster. |
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I kind of browsed through the thread and saw rabbits and chickens mentioned, but what I don't see mentioned is butchering. Butchering your own meat is an art, one that's not possessed by many people. More for the future when you're rural living, but its a needed skill for homesteading IMO. Glad I learned from my grandfather, and I'll pass it on to the next generation. View Quote Ive been trying on whole chicken and deboning. I'm a butcher alright butchering that meat and leaving more on the bone. lol Still trying to teach myself but might just have to go to a butcher |
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Quoted: My goal is to be more self reliant. yes I know it is a very general term but will explain. I don't like the fact in essence todays society that everything can be bought as convenience but doing yourself is almost discourage (getting political but mainly by the left nowadays). I want to be able to still live without depending fully on 3rd party entities (not referring to government but from the simplest form Walmart etc) I would start off with learning to cook from scratch. It is easy to store bulk ingredients. Eating from a pantry is one of the cornerstones of homesteading. Start acquiring the tools to do so. Kitchen Aid mixers, wheat mill (I recommend the WonderMill electric), root cellar (can be done in a basement with non-permanent walls and a window) if you have a cold enough climate, etc. Do I want to live off the land? I think I do, but what I do know (reference to first question) is to be more self reliant. Lets say 10% of my family comes from homesteading (food, income, crafting) I already know that I'm doing better than a majority of the population. Where as if something bad happens ie wife getting fired to the extreme SHTF we will be better off still. Yes, but if you are suburban, you don't want to be anywhere near there in a SHTF scenario. I would leave. If it is just your personal economy, you are better off. Not so much in a widespread SHTF event. Those other people become hungry, and will promptly relieve you of your supplies. Once you go rural, then I would think about hardening the property. Redundant systems for food/water/heat, etc. Take a look at what is worth doing yourself, and why. Really, veggies don't cost much (unless you buy organic), and it is better to put your effort into things like chickens for meat and eggs. Use the garden area to grow supplemental food for the animals, etc. Prioritize. You can expand to other things, an a veggie garden as you have time/resources/room. As it comes for income from straight homesteading, I haven't thought of it to be truly honest. Would I want us to live on it sure but to be honest at this moment in time unrealistic. I know my wife likes to bake and do crafts and always wanted to try to make her goods for profit. Its not realistic in today's world. Only if you inherited the land is it even possible, or were rich when you started so you have no debt/bills and have good equipment. Then it would take little income to coast. As for electronics I'm already good without them. Heck the biggest change that my family did (which my inlaws cannot believe we did this) was rid cable and only have hulu amazon and Netflix. We have saved a decent sum by doing this. We cut cable. Wife convinced me to put in an antennae. Regret that. I'm not sure how much my wife will partake in this but I will put it this way, she is not against it at all. Mind you currently we will still do quite well if I'm not working (was a stay at home dad for awhile) If I stop working it will not hurt us at all. I'm only workings just to help pay off more bills off faster. If you raise a significant portion of your food, it actually makes financial sense to stay home and do that vs a mediocre job. Just remember that there are no guarantees with anything agriculture. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: So OP, what are your goals with this exactly? Are you looking to live off the land? Make your living off the land? If so, what are your income expectations? You still need income, and more than you think even with this lifestyle. It rarely pays for itself and usually requires either cash crops/services or outside income. Are you willing/ready to ditch electronics? You won't have time for video games or TV. Are you and your family prepared to invest the TIME it takes to maintain everything, produce and preserve? How much will your wife take part, since she is the one that currently brings in the household income? My goal is to be more self reliant. yes I know it is a very general term but will explain. I don't like the fact in essence todays society that everything can be bought as convenience but doing yourself is almost discourage (getting political but mainly by the left nowadays). I want to be able to still live without depending fully on 3rd party entities (not referring to government but from the simplest form Walmart etc) I would start off with learning to cook from scratch. It is easy to store bulk ingredients. Eating from a pantry is one of the cornerstones of homesteading. Start acquiring the tools to do so. Kitchen Aid mixers, wheat mill (I recommend the WonderMill electric), root cellar (can be done in a basement with non-permanent walls and a window) if you have a cold enough climate, etc. Do I want to live off the land? I think I do, but what I do know (reference to first question) is to be more self reliant. Lets say 10% of my family comes from homesteading (food, income, crafting) I already know that I'm doing better than a majority of the population. Where as if something bad happens ie wife getting fired to the extreme SHTF we will be better off still. Yes, but if you are suburban, you don't want to be anywhere near there in a SHTF scenario. I would leave. If it is just your personal economy, you are better off. Not so much in a widespread SHTF event. Those other people become hungry, and will promptly relieve you of your supplies. Once you go rural, then I would think about hardening the property. Redundant systems for food/water/heat, etc. Take a look at what is worth doing yourself, and why. Really, veggies don't cost much (unless you buy organic), and it is better to put your effort into things like chickens for meat and eggs. Use the garden area to grow supplemental food for the animals, etc. Prioritize. You can expand to other things, an a veggie garden as you have time/resources/room. As it comes for income from straight homesteading, I haven't thought of it to be truly honest. Would I want us to live on it sure but to be honest at this moment in time unrealistic. I know my wife likes to bake and do crafts and always wanted to try to make her goods for profit. Its not realistic in today's world. Only if you inherited the land is it even possible, or were rich when you started so you have no debt/bills and have good equipment. Then it would take little income to coast. As for electronics I'm already good without them. Heck the biggest change that my family did (which my inlaws cannot believe we did this) was rid cable and only have hulu amazon and Netflix. We have saved a decent sum by doing this. We cut cable. Wife convinced me to put in an antennae. Regret that. I'm not sure how much my wife will partake in this but I will put it this way, she is not against it at all. Mind you currently we will still do quite well if I'm not working (was a stay at home dad for awhile) If I stop working it will not hurt us at all. I'm only workings just to help pay off more bills off faster. If you raise a significant portion of your food, it actually makes financial sense to stay home and do that vs a mediocre job. Just remember that there are no guarantees with anything agriculture. |
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An excerpt from my "book". Keep in mind, still in first draft. Still just organizing ideas. This a direct cut/paste, formatting may not be quite right.
This may help if you want to start a garden from scratch.
Chapter 4: Homesteading Phase 1: Establish a garden. I didn't touch on gardens at all during the financial preparation section, because I think that not only does gardening require a chapter all of its own (if not multiple), having a garden is living situation dependent and is a lifestyle choice. In almost any situation you can have a couple container plants of peppers or spinach going, but they won't supply you with meaningful calorie intake. A meaningful garden can provide you with meaningful calories and nutrition, but gardening takes a significant initial investment of money, time, and effort. Busting up virgin soil and the initial tool investment is not trivial, at least not if you are doing a garden that has any chance of sustaining you and your family. Managing a garden of size is a team effort. Whenever you have a spouse, you must work as a team. You plan as a team. You must both agree to a budget for the investment, and who is in charge of certain chores if they are to be divided. Be sure your spouse in on the same page, and you have the same goals. I admit, <wife> was less than enthusiastic about a large garden, but she understood why. She is now on board with it. The first thing to do before you ever think of putting plow to soil is proper preparation. Start with research. Research will be a common theme that I have employed constantly. Since we live in the information age, there is no reason why we should jump into something completely blind. Perform a site survey of your property. This doesn't have to be professional, but build yourself even a crude topographical map. Look at where any trees or buildings are that would shade your garden. This may be impossible to avoid such as at our farm, but try to minimize the shade. Check the soil, and have it tested to see what it needs. Look at drainage. Consider over-spray if you are adjacent to industrial farm land. Consider how flat the area is. Take if from me, it is hard working a garden on a hill, but proper drainage is also important to avoid your garden becoming a swamp. How close are you to the house? What about irrigation water supply? Can you get your garden equipment in and out easily? Once you settle on the best area available, then consider growth. How will your homestead grow. How will you expand your garden? Are you planting fruit trees or strawberry patches or perhaps raspberries? What about grape vines? Are you considering livestock? Do you need pasture area? I sketched an over-head view of our property and actually drew out where I was planning on putting everything. Keep in mind that this plan is likely to change. You may get to know your property better, perhaps the tree line will change. Who knows. Don't be afraid to change things, but just keep in mind that once you plant trees, establish gardens, put in berry patches, build permanent buildings, etc., they don't move easily. If you are still confident in your garden location, then continue in the next phase of your research. Money. Yup, you need money here too. You need to invest in tools, seed, soil testing and correction. You can get away with starting small or with used equipment, but my advise is to limit your garden to the tools you have available. Example: We started out with nothing but our hands and a garden hoe. We borrowed my father-in-law's tiller to put the garden in. We only had the tiller out once in the spring, as it wasn't easy to just bring it over. Our garden was small, but we grew something. We had no weeding tools, no planting tools, and no money to buy any at that time. You need to sit down with your spouse and decide how much you are able to invest in your gardening. Lets make a quick list of items you will need for successful gardening in a larger garden. Lets start with the bare necessity to get seeds in the ground. Quick note: I am discussing "conventional” gardening practices, and assuming you are breaking up virgin soil and are not retired and/or want to spend every spare moment of an entire summer doing things by hand. There are other ways, such as double digging, hand weeding, etc., but if you are talking over a couple hundred square feet of garden bed, those hand methods become a daunting (however possible) task. Don't be afraid to pick up tools used, especially hand tools. They tend to sell for a buck or two at yard sales compared to $10 to $30 new. Keep an eye out for used tillers in the fall/winter. Items of necessity: Rotary tiller.
Long handled garden hoe. Long handled weeding tool. Wheel barrow or some sort of garden cart. Enough hose to reach every corner of your garden. Hand watering wand (the low pressure high volume variety that simulates rain). Sighting string Hand weeding tool. Hand shovel. Large straw hat. Work gloves. Multiply hand tools by the number of workers for the garden. Items that will make gardening much more productive and less time consuming: Single or double wheel hoe and appropriate weeding attachments. Seeder or seeding attachment for wheel hoe. Automated irrigation (grass sprinklers will do, but I like drip irrigation or soaker hoses as appripriate). More hose and Y valves for them. On this note, bigger diameter hose. Trellis materials. Cattle panels are a bit expensive, but will last decades. Garden tractor (ground engaging grade) and appropriate attachments. If you have this, skip the tiller. Rotary tilling is hard on the soil. Kids that are excited to help Mommy and Daddy! There are perhaps other items or systems that you may need to consider that are specific to your area. Talk to other gardeners, particularly try to find people that have a large garden for private use. If you have certain pest problems, there may be locally adapted procedures in place for dealing with them, or certain seed varieties to avoid or seek out. Hit up the local gardening online chat rooms and see what others are having issues with. There is no one-size-fits-all approach to a garden. I am not going to name prices on any of those items here. Prices fluctuate from year to year, region to region, and what time of year you buy. You can buy clearance gardening stuff in late summer and fall and yard sales are good source as well. You can find a tiller used. You can choose to buy it all new. This is something to talk with your spouse about and decide if you have more time to hunt it down or money to invest. Which garden method are you going to use? Yup, you need to research this too. What are your priorities with gardening? Are you striving for a 100% organic approach? Are you planning on using hybrid seeds and weed killer like industrial farms? For us, one of the reasons we wanted a large garden was to provide high quality organic produce for our family. Are you going to save seeds? Are you going to use hybrid seeds for maximum yield and pest/disease resistance (but you are dependent on buying seeds every year). Again, lots of decisions that are up to you. I suggest you at start out with a large variety of heirloom variety seeds. See what you like, what works, what didn't. It can take gardeners decades to pick out the perfect varieties. Move ½ mile and the soil changes and what worked before doesn't work well now. Just remember that if you can create your own hybrids un-intentionally by having many varieties of compatible plants. Seed saving is not something I have yet reliably perfected for all varieties (such as carrots, cabbage, broccoli, onions), so I suggest you seek other literature on the subject. One thing I will advise is that during your beginning years when you plant multiple varieties of the same veggie, if you save seeds you will have hybrids. Don't bother saving seeds until you are settled on the varieties you want to grow long term. I also suggest the false bed technique. This is a weed prevention technique that dramatically reduces the amount of work you put into keeping the weeds down. Most people till the garden, and plant in one weekend. This is a mistake for the organic gardener. If you want to raise a small garden as a hobby, sure it works. If you are wanting to spend as little time as possible on a large sustenance garden, I would advise the false bed technique. More information can be had online, but I will outline how the system works. You till/plow (From here on it, I will likely use tilling/plowing interchangeably. Use whatever means of soil prep you have available) the soil in the spring, as soon as it can be worked. You are mixing in all the leaves, mulch, fertilizer, etc that was added during winter plus whatever supplements your soil needed nutrient wise. Once you till in your garden, put away your tiller until fall, as you won't use it again. The strategy here is no not turn your soil again until fall (unless you decide to use a no till method, but I am no expert in that as I have not used it. Our ground gets too hard here to work it by hand.) Every time you till the soil, you bring seeds to the surface that have been dormant for possibly decades. Those seeds have been waiting for just the right conditions to sprout. Now is when we WANT your weeds to grow, not later in the year. At this point, you are literally going to grow weeds. After you till your garden for the spring, go and find something else to do for a week or so. The waiting is hard. You watch all the neighbors putting in seeds with nicely marked rows and you look at a patch of nothing. A beautiful spring week passes by. Nice warm long sunny days. Within a week, you should see weeds popping up. The first "leaves” you see of a plant are called cotyledon. There are generally two types of weeds and garden plants: Plants with 1 cotyledon leaf (called monocotyledons, or monocots) and plants with 2 cotyledon "leaves” (called dicotyledons or dicots). These are not the true plant leaves. Anyway, once these first embronic leaves appear, the plant is at its most vulnerable stage. The seed has spent all its reserve energy to reach the sun to start photosynthesis, and its reserves are empty. It is not able to regrow roots, a stem or a cotyledon leaf. Now it the time to act! STOP!!! Do NOT till your garden again!!!!!! You have two options here. First option is to work the soil with a stirrup hoe or weeding sweeps to cut the small plants off from the roots. A stirrip hoe is basically just a blade that is run just within the first 1/2 inch of soil, and not disturb any deeper. It kills the young weeds by cutting the roots off the stems without working up dormant seeds. This works great if the soil is dry enough to work. If it is not dry enough to work, a propane torch is the best bet. You should not wait any longer than now, so use the propane if you must. If you wait longer, you risk the plant building its energy reserves back up in its root system since it now has access to the sun's energy. If that happens, you will be battling that plant until it is pulled out by hand. Right now either weed sweep the entire garden or use a propane torch to singe the plants. It is not neccesary to torch them into oblivion, just hitting them with the torch quickly will kill them. After you have killed all the weeks, put away your weeding tool and (you guessed it) wait some more. Wait another week for the next crop of weeds. Agonizing, isn't it? Don't worry. It is worth it in the end. After your second week of weed crops, you once again kill the weeds either by cutting them with a stirrip hoe or porpane torch depending on how wet the soil is. Now is when you have a choice. Ideally, you would wait another week and raise the last bit of weeds that took a while to germinate. However, if you got a late start this could put you behind. If you had a nice early spring, I would wait the third week. If it is getting too far into late spring and you had significantly less weeds in your second weed crop, I would consider planting your crops now. Either way, once you kill your last crop of weeds, IMMEDIATELY plant your food crops. They should be about the only plants germinating when they are coming up, and you should have a nice garden with few weeds. You now start weeding as normal, but NEVER till your garden mid-season. Instead, use your stirrup hoe or weed sweeps. More on those devices later. Here is a quick time table for the false bed technique, assuming 3 weeks for weed germination: <colgroup> <col width="51*"></col> <col width="54*"></col> <col width="46*"></col> <col width="105*"></col> </colgroup>
Fall tilling: Some do, some don't. There are arguments for both. I like to turn in the garden after adding compost or chicken bedding. I also find the garden dries faster in the spring if it is tilled. There again, a lot depends on your climate and soil conditions. Experiment! Perhaps you find that you are better off NOT tilling in the fall. One of the very first things we did when we got our farm was to start a relatively small garden. Our first patch was about 10 feet wide by 25 feet long. Small, but we hadn't equipment for larger and we decided to start small and expand. One of the first problems we ran into was the same problem everyone who breaks virgin ground runs into: bugs and weeds. We experienced significant losses in any freshly tilled ground from June bug grubs. They wreak havoc on our potatoes. Just this last year, when we planted our potatoes in a second year garden, we experienced a 50% loss due to June bug grubs. There are some traps you can make (and we tried some with limited success), but the best solution is to keep your garden weed free for about 3 years. After 3 years, that part of the June bug life cycle is over and June bugs don't like to lay eggs in open dirt (they prefer lawn/pasture environments for their eggs). After a few years, that particular problem will subside. Second problem was weeds. Oh the weeds! Imagine a lawn of weeds coming up in your veggie garden. It was that bad. I must admit, it is a battle we lost a couple times. I wasn't using the false bed technique in the beginning, as I had never heard of it. I have since learned that you should take a year and till the garden, kill weeds, kill weeds, kill weeds, etc., for the entire year. I like to plow a few times during the year to keep bringing up those seeds and get them to germinate. Kill as many weeds as you can that first year. Even if you kill what was there, obviously there will always be weed seeds coming in fresh from the breeze, but you want to kill the weed seed stockpile in the soil. Another option is a large tarp (preferably the silver/black, not blue or white) or black plastic sheeting. Let the weeds come up and smother them with the cover for a couple weeks. Then allow the ground to re-grow its weeds (possibly turning the earth to encourage this), and then smother again. You can let the weeds get a bit bigger than the initial leaves, as you will cut off all light. Don't let them get too big though, as the roots will store enough energy to come back. We quickly found out that weeding by hand is darn near impossible for anything other than a small urban sized garden, unless you literally have nothing better to do. You need mechanization to handle a garden of size. I tried to avoid this, but we had the decision either downsize the garden or gain a mechanical advantage over the weeds. Since downsizing the garden simply isn't an option, I started researching (see, there that word is again!) what is the best way to gain that mechanical advantage. I found it in a 2 wheel hoe, as they would have used late 19th and early 20th century. I purchased a complete 2 wheel hoe, accessories and even a seeding attachment for our garden. I purchased it new, and I will admit I spent about $500 on everything, including the seeder. Seems like a lot for a simple machine, but it is built with a quality that is reminiscent of the time period when the device thrived across America. The unit was purchased from http://www.easydigging.com/ and delivered promptly. Excitedly, I assembled the unit and took it to the garden. Safe to say, I was happy with my purchase. The wheel hoe has accessories available, including different sized stirrup hoes, weed sweeps, cultivator teeth, miniature disc (how neat is that!) and a seeder attachment. I advise you go to their website and check it out. As a note, I have no affiliation, nor do I receive any type of incentive for any review. I purchased my wheel hoe and accessories as a private person at the normal retail price of the time. The seeder attachment was purchased separately, as I wanted to wait to see the quality and durability of the base unit first. The seeder is also a quality built item. There are a few plastic pieces, but they are low stress parts and I feel they should withstand the test of time. Best thing for me is that the seeder will plant carrot seeds, which I absolutely loathe planting by hand. Last year, I gave up dropping those tiny seeds with my huge fingers and decided to try solid seeding carrots in small beds akin to spreading grass seed. That was a dismal failure. Not only does it waste a lot of seed because of thinning, but weeding and harvesting is extremely difficult to do, and impossible to do with any type of tool. Don't solid seed carrots! The two wheel hoe is the type of tool (depending on the attachment that is on) where its primary job is to cut the weeds off just below surface. This is the type of tool that is needed for the false bed technique, and also for weeding mid season without turning the soil or pulling weeds by hand. The unit pushes easy though even our heavy soil, and does its job well. It does NOT, however, work very well when the soil is wet. If the soil is wet enough to leave your boots with mud on them, it is too wet to use a wheel hoe. The stirrup hoe and weed sweeps depend on the soil being able to "flow” over the blade. If it clumps rather than flows, it tends to bunch up on the blade. If things were that wet, I would either use a propane torch or wait for dryer weather. Starting Seeds: Note: You will notice that when starting seedlings early indoors, you cannot get by without artificial lights, the power grid, and a relatively expensive setup. After all, shelving and a multitude of shop lights aren't cheap. This is a choice. Even up here in Minnesota, we CAN grow a lot of veggies without starting seeds. Tomatoes CAN be directly sown in the garden. We can plant a large enough variety of vegetables to sustain us. HOWEVER, we enjoy some things that must be started early, particularly onions. Things like pumpkins, squash, melons can be started in a cold frame that is solar powered, but onions take MONTHS from seeds before you can put them in the ground this far north. As an example, I just planted 220 onion seeds in January for this summer. As long as we have the ability, I would rather grow my own vegetables. I know what is in them, how they were grown, how they were handled, and I am not subject to the half rotten onions at the grocery store. This is a decision YOU will have to make if you want to grow vegetables that require starting seedlings early. Typically, (depending on where you live) you need to start some seeds indoors before the actual growing season. Things like celery, onions (from seeds, not sets), possibly tomatoes in the far north, etc., need more growing time from seed than the season allows. Or perhaps you want to get a jump start for better production on things like pumpkin/squash and melons. In any case, you are starting seeds early indoors. The commercial way to start seeds is to buy trays that contain individual plastic cells (usually in a 6 pack) for each plant. You fill each cell with starting mix, plant seed, and add water to the bottom of the tray. The bottom of the individual cells have slits to allow water to soak up the soil, and a clear plastic dome to simulate a miniature green house. The problem I have with these units is 2 fold. First, you must constantly buy these plastic sets. I have tried re-using them, but haven't had luck with reusing them more than once or so. They are also surprisingly expensive for some cheap, thin and brittle blown plastic that costs about 5 cents to produce. Second is the plants don't like them either. When you pull a plant out of a plastic pot for transplant, you will see exposed, bare roots. When you put that plant into your garden, the plant experiences transplant shock, which is a sudden change in soil characteristics that the roots are exposed to. Some of the plants may even die, and all will be stunted for a couple weeks while they attempt to adapt to the sudden change in environment. Either case, this is not ideal. I have started using the soil blocking technique. Basically, instead of plastic cells, you make formed compacted soil cubes using a molding tool. You plant your seeds in these cubes of compressed dirt. The roots tend not to explore past the edge of the soil block because they will naturally go away from air and sunlight. If they grow too close to the outside edge of the soil block, they will generally turn and go another direction. Soil block molds come in different sizes. From 3/4” square to 4x4”. There are block spacers in the larger molds that are the size of the smaller blocks, so when you seedling is getting too big for its little bit of dirt, you place the entire block and seedling into the next size up soil block, never having to un-earth or disturb the root system. Simply search for "soil blocking kit” on your favorite web search engine, and you should be provided with many purchasing options. Once you buy the molds, you should never have to buy them again, and you can re-use the flat bottom containment trays for many years. You are going green, reducing your dependency on the system, have better plants, AND have a quality tool that will make you as many blocks as you can squeeze. I paid $60 for a kit of 2 molds and appropriate accessories. In my opinion, they are worth the investment. Next order of business is lighting. Your plants will need light, and depending on your latitude, a lot more than the sun will give you this time of year. If you have a sun room with nice big south facing windows that are NOT Low-E glass, you are a big step ahead here. If not, you need to produce light artificially. Your lighting system should be built when you pick out your shelving options to maximize both. Generally speaking, you use long tube fluorescent shop lights for your light source. They are held by small chains that allow you to adjust the height from the plants (you should keep them about 2 inches from the plants). I have been using "daylight” bulbs in the fixtures, and I have been happy with them. Some people use just the "cool blue” bulbs, others a combination of the blue and red (soft) light bulbs. Feel free to experiment. Just know that the blue spectrum promotes plant growth, and the red spectrum promotes flowering. You need to match the length and depth of your lights to how long your shelving will be. If you have 4 foot shelving, you need 4 foot shop lights. Ideally, you would have longer lights than your plants take up on your shelving, so the plants grow straight. If you lights are too short, your plants will grow toward the light. Unless you frequently rotate them, you won't have very strong plants. Just keep this in mind when you are setting up your seeding area. While still experimental as I write this, I have forgone the traditional shop lights in favor of individual CFL or LED daylight bulbs and matching bases mounted individually on the bottom of the shelves for my latest version of seed starting system. The reason I am trying this is pure cost. I figured that the cost of putting 2 shop lights per shelf, and 3 shelves of lights would run approximately $140. Insane. The shop lights do NOT come with bulbs (and if they do, they are the wrong ones), so they are a separate expense and add up quickly. Instead, by using CFL Daylight bulbs, we can save considerable money. A CFL Daylight can be had in various power outputs. For now, I am using 60 watt equivalent. The bulbs are approximately $1.50 each, and the base is approximately $1.25 each. I figured on 4 bulbs per shelf, so that works out to about $11 per shelf, or $33 for 3 shelves. Upgrading to 6 bulbs per shelf only adds an additional $16 to the project. Or one could simply use higher wattage CFL bulbs and 4 sockets. Higher watt CFL bulbs are only 50 cents to a dollar more for 100 or 125 watt equivalent. Be careful for too hot of bulbs, though. You don't want to burn your plants from the heat. My shelves are only 2.5 feet wide of useable space, so while 4 bulbs per shelf may work fine for me, if you have wider you would need to use 6 or 8 per shelf. For the bases, you can use traditional bases that are hard wired in and secured to the shelf, but the shelf system I got on sale was plastic and not wood. I had no way to secure the bases to the plastic perforated shelf. My solution was to use "temporary light sockets”. These have piercing contacts and a twist lock. You strip back the outer-most insulation of the standard building wire, exposing the 3 wires inside. You then simply set the exposed (but still insulated) hot and common wires on the piercing contacts and twist the lock. The contacts are pushed into the wire, making contact with the copper inside, thus providing power. They were quick and easy to put up, and I simply used zip ties to secure the unit to the perforated plastic shelf. A few didn't make great contact at first, but a little twist and wiggle and they are lighting properly. Since there are exposed contacts (although you would have to attempt to deliberately touch one), make sure you completely un-plug the lights from the power outlet before working with the plants. Keep kids away as well. Oh, one last note about lighting: they need to be on a timer. I just use a cheap mechanical timer to give the plants approximately 10 hours of light a day. |
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